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A Viewer Sent Me This 'Dead' Sony Soundbar... I Found the Problem!
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- Published on Apr 14, 2026
- A Sony Sound Bar which is completely dead! It was sent in by a viewer called Paul who asked if I could try and repair it. Let's see if it's fixable. Is it just a fuse? or something more!
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
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#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair #repairing
Sony HT-SF150 Repair
Sony Sound Bar Repair
Fixing A Sony HT-SF150
Repairing a Sony HT-SF150 No Power
Repairing a DEAD Sony HT-SF150
Faulty Sony HT-SF150
DEAD HT-SF150
The diode did it's job, it lasted through warranty.
😂😂😂👍Although this one didn't appear to! ca.community.sony.com/s/question/0D5Dp00001UCCk5KAH/hts100f-wont-power-on-after-working-6-months?language=en_US
Numerous comments suggest it failed frequently under warranty. So no, this wasn’t deliberate.
DTF. No company designs things to last.
@tookitogo deliberate? You must be naive. To use that phrase implies mal-intent. They aren't designing it to fail. Just last long enough so they can sell you the new model next year. Grow up, naivety is a disease of the mind.
@Marin3r101 What the heck? I’m saying it’s NOT deliberate, because that is precisely what many other commenters ARE claiming. (Yes, they very much think it’s malintent.) In other words, you agree with me, so why are you attacking me?!? How am I naive for explicitly not believing in the design-to-fail nonsense so many people claim?
6:41 look at that smurf hiding on the board 😂
the smurf did it .
😂😂😂Yes, and I thought I'd got rid of all the "gremlins" 😂😂👍
Where are you all coming from? ..... 🫣🫡🤣
@Paul_SD there is a blue tantalum cap with white antivibration glue holding it to the board. As he rotates the board, it looks like a smurf.
😁
@danbrownlee4400 - got that 👌🫡 I was trying to be clever & quoting the line from from Father Abraham and The Smurfs song: "Where are you all coming from?
From Smurfland where we belong
Are you talking just like us?
No, we Smurf, it's much less fuss
Do you do things that we don't dare?
We are real Smurfs so we don't care
This is the song with the nice refrain
Yes, we will sing it once again"
I have a soundbar that was discontinued because of reliability issues. I've had mine for 2+ years works like new, & I use it daily. Heat is what kills them.
Laying in my hospital bed watching Mick fix stuff. Hope my Doctor is as good..
Sorry to hear mate, hope you get well soon! 🤞
sending some healing positivity!
@BuyitFixit Thanks Mick, doctors were great and did good work. Bruised and beaten but will recover, appreciate the thoughts.
@dreamsdontloveyou Thanks for the thought, will take a few weeks..👍
You will wake up with a bigger capacitor pluged in your arse
My Sony soundbar had exactly the same failure. I bought it at Currys and got partial refund under the Sale of Goods Act. Their tech told me mine was the third that week with the same fault. That's why I opted for a refund.
Very interesting. Thank you for sharing👍. I did find out after I uploaded the video that this does indeed seem like a common problem, as there were two listed on eBay that had "no power" or were "dead". There was also a lot that had been previously listed with similar descriptions!
This is new technology on a piece of sound equipment. As a Repair Tech. myself, l have never encountered one in the shop. Thank you for the innovative 💡 repair video 📹. 🇧🇧
Thanks mate 👍🙂
Have a good one. 🇧🇧. 😊
Sony used an undersized part that will easily cook itself to death, Gemini told me. That big robust replacement part is GENIUS
Thanks mate 👍
Another excellent repair - definitely seems like a design issue if it has happened to others.
Thanks 👍 I've done a bit more digging and I'd say it is. There's loads been sold with no power / dead on eBay and currently there's two on eBay which are 'dead' and 'no power'
Excellent repair.
I had a car subwoofer where the amplifier stopped working. On investigation, I found a zener diode was short to ground, preventing it from powering up. Diode replaced, and it sprung to life.
I took the opportunity to replace the caps in the amplifier with audio grade Nichicon caps while it was apart.
Thanks mate, and great job on fixing the car subwoofer 👍🙂
Glad you didn't use a similar substandard part.
Cheers mate 👍
Like "Sony" of Indonesia did?
The is a reason why many things fail after warranty. So i dont think it is a designfault by accident.
But thank you so much man! I really learn from your video's and explains. Its all so understandable and educational for a Dutchie like me.
Thanks 👍 I'm glad you're finding my videos useful 😊
Wow Mick, when the video started I was thinking my gosh you have put on a few pounds but then realised it was a curved cutout on your desk..A beautiful repair once again, but it's amazing that a company like Sony can make a simple design flaw leading to premiture failure.
I ain't ate all the pies😂😂😂
@BuyitFixit ..but you certainly seem to be 'eating' a load of chips ATM ;)
😂😂😂😂
I have a 5.1 Sony soundbar. I think they call it a 7.1 but only in their dreams. Anyway, one of the rear wireless speakers failed during the warranty and they replaced the pair for free. Now it's out of warranty I'm a little nervous about the next failure.
Given the diode was rated well above its actual use (150V for a 22V supply and 15A against maybe a few amps used) it points to component failure AND, since it seems to have happened more than once then perhaps a case of 'fake' parts? Happens to even Sony! Good result regardless.
One I saw with the same fault had a different make component but rated the same value. I did a bit digging and loads have been sold on eBay with no power or dead. There's two on there at the moment!
@BuyitFixit Those are my favourite "spares or repairs" faults, and I'm even happier if they say "Went bang!"
@BuyitFixit In which case I'd be looking at the snubber network as being improperly designed.
Cheers Mick, I look forward to my weekly fix 😁👍 you definitely the guy I would want in a bunker 😁😜. All the best Patrick
Intrigued by your electronics knowledge. Can you explain in your next video what and how the Dim Bulb Socket thingy works please?
You should post your failure, too, on that forum. And your fix.
That was great to watch, good tech work check eliminate.
Thanks Tom 👍
Nice job 👍 Very methodical fault finding - I wish some of the SMPSs that I have disassembled and are now lying in boxes had such simple failures 😢
Thanks 👍I've done quite a few devices / SMPS repairs. Might be worth checking some of my other videos out if you're stuck. One of the unusual one's was a the Shark air purifier which turned out to be an open circuit opto-isolator. I'd not came across that failure before.
Love this editing style; crisp and succinct and you added more educational descriptions as well. Well done
Cheers William, glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thanks for the video Mick, it helps a lot!
Thanks mate, happy to help! 🙂
enjoy the videos, great troubleshooting sharing.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying them! 👍
I love the "LOGO" box at 2:09... unused but printed anyway. nice to see screw locations marked on the power board. That is good.
😂😂😂Yes, notice that too!
Nice work! Perhaps that diode fails due to not so great manufacturing, or maybe it gets some unintentional spikes somehow. Your mega-diode replacement should sort it for quite a long time.
Thanks Mike 👍 I found out there has been loads sold on eBay that are dead or now power. There's two on at the moment, so I'm leaning towards a design fault here.
Another successful repair mick. and a thumbs up from me. I'm busy with work but will get that email sent and my fathers tv asap.
Thanks mate 👍
I have had my Sound system for over 32 years, and it still sounds as good as the first day I bought. It's BOSE. You can't beat the original.
Nice 👍I think the only BOSE stuff I've worked on was a Bose alarm clock radio a while back.
Nicely done. I like the use of the thermal camera, better than using a finger.
Thanks 👍
you're really a good detective . honestly me I was thinking about the caps which you shown 9.35 .is shorted .also why I was suspecting this smd caps because of colour .it's burns .
But am surprising about this this diote . I have work with it .before .
So that's was a really good video I have watched 3 times . ❤thanks 👍
Thanks 🙂👍
Dude absolutely luv your videos your technique and ability to trace and explain what your looking for and expecting is brilliant i have just one ask though would it be possible to show soldering iron temps and workstation airflow it would help a novice like me
Thanks 👍 I usually have my iron around 320c or so, rework station 450c 3% airflow but it's different on every station.
Its not everyday that the great Sean Connery repairs a Sony soundbar for us 😅
Not so! Connery was Scottish whereas the engineer here is a Geordie. (NE England)
Yes, Geordie (orginally from NE England).
Outstanding. Love it when a plan comes together...👏👏👏👏
Thanks 👍🙂
Thank you for uploading a video like this! Ive been looking for a channel that fix stuff like this :)
Thanks mate 👍I try to fix a wide variety of stuff so please check out some of my other videos. I've fixed a lot of different things on here 🙂
Nice one. A very quick find of the problem.
Thanks mate 👍
You didn't repair tye sound bar you upgraded the part that caused the Dony Soundbar to die in the first making it better and allowing it work for many more years to come the viewer/subscriber certainly got a better product in the end that can last them a very good while.
You didn't just repaired but also upgraded the part that caused the repair to be required in the first place so well done.😊😊😊
Thank you 👍🙂
Nice work as usual Mick. Thanks.
Cheers mate! 👍
and yet another fix ...i would be happy to have just a few percent of the things you know ...heck i bet you have forgotten more than i know ...sterling job Mick always look forward to your output
Thanks mate 👍🙂
Hey mick. Did you wick the old solder? I believe is a must if you add low melt solder.
Nice repair!!
Thanks 👍Yes mate, as I had to lower the heatsink slightly. I didn't put that bit in the video though 🙂
The indoor unit of my Mitubishi AC unit failed because one of those exact diodes went short. I replaced it with a throughhole one and it's been fine since.
Nice 👍 well done 👏
Repair ... heck WAY more then a repair .. you not only fixed it .. but put the component in there that should have been in there from the start .. these engineers are specifying components with head room around 3% or so .. it is a crying shame .. but 1 penny on each unit over all the units is millions of $ but everyone would rather pay a few cents more and get something that would last.. makes me just scratch my head .. AWESOME job .. CLAP CLAP CLAP
Cheers ED! Thanks so much. I did discover after uploading that there has been lots of these sold on eBay with "no power" or "dead" so I think it's a common problem with them.
Love your trouble shooting techniques and how you were able to narrow it down to the problem area. The essential tool here was the multimeter. Great job!
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the process! 👍
I really like your videos Mick. Not only can you perform outstanding fault diagnosis, but also you have some pretty smart solutions to fix the issues. I probably would have just replaced that diode with the same part like many others, but after watching the video, I have to say I really liked your idea to fit a higher rated one in there. Not just a fix, but increased robustness to prevent it happening in the future. Thumbs up from me!
Thanks mate 👍 I did find that there has been quite a lot of these sold on eBay with the fault of "no power" or "dead". There's two on there at the moment. I also saw a post be someone that theirs had died after 6 months! ca.community.sony.com/s/question/0D5Dp00001UCCk5KAH/hts100f-wont-power-on-after-working-6-months
Thanks for the troubleshooting and fix! Are these soundbars dual voltage?
The one I had only has 230-240v written on the back.
You can't just slap any diode that has higher ratings in. You also have to check the switching characteristics. Some of these switching power supplies can run at outrageous speeds.
According to the datasheet the one I used as a recovery speed of 30ns, which equates to over 30MHz. The 6 pin PWM IC in the SMPS often use speeds of around 60Khz.
Always a pleasure watching you work Mick , well done 👍🏻
Thanks Jesse 👍
HAI!!! This was a sold fix Mick, well done again, thanks! Hope spring finally reached your outback too. bout time it gets warm again! All the best from down south DE, have a great week!
Thanks mate 👍Yes I think we're getting a small taste of spring at the moment.
Loved the annotated explanations 👍👍
Glad you liked them, thanks for watching! 👍
Great troubleshooting skills.
Cheers, glad you enjoyed the video! 👍
Well nice fix mick. As I say myself you have hit the nail on the head there were there is a failure problem with that a massive failure 💯 on there.
Thanks mate 👍
Yes, I think it is too small. Couldn't handle the load over time.
Well done Mick, good repair and video and another electrical item saved from going into landfill. 😊
Thanks mate 👍
Hey Mick, great repair vid, love the troubleshooting method as others have noted. Funny, I used to do repair work on loads of one specific PCB, and we had a dual diode on the board in the same funny package as the one which failed on you. Ours was also a common failure point. I wonder if maybe that’s just a crappy package for diodes?
Thanks mate 👍. Could well be. I noticed quite a few have been sold on eBay that are "dead" or "no power" and there was two on there last time I checked so it seems to be a common fault. I did see a picture of another similar unit which had the same diode failure but it was a different manufacturer of the diode... I think there is some design fault here.. My larger diode shouldn't fail as easily!
seems to be a common theme in electronics anymore. Installing a minimally sized component to make it sellable and then it will fail soon after warranty period is expired. Thanks for installing a more robust component. Should last a very long time with your magic touch. Thanks friend
Thank you 👍🙂
Just a small spike in the grid and some components are popping up...
The lifespan of an electronic part isn’t predictable enough to use them as timed failure mechanisms. Given that the diode’s specs are actually not even close to pushed to their limits here - it’s generously derated - it seems like either bad specifications on the diode manufacturer’s part, or a batch of fake diodes.
How does a tiny soundbar packed full of stuff give off so much level and bass?
That mat with the screw pockets is great. Seems a likely candidate to blow due to power surge.
Yes, the "famous blue mat" as I call it, is quite handy. A lot of other RUclipsrs use a similar one too. I think there is a design fault with these sound bars as I discovered there's a lot of them sold on eBay with either "dead" or "no power".
Nice diagnosis Mick
Cheers Ray 👍
Great fix....
Thanks 👍
Nicely done as always Mick! I'm sure this will help out others with the same failure. 👍
Thanks Andy! Hopefully it saves a few from the landfill 🙂
@BuyitFixit We have ewaste in AU, many good CRT TVs met their demise come the LCD invasion
Definitely a design fault/bad component choice. Off the back of this I bought one faulty off ebay, exact same fault. Replaced the diode, and now have a soundbar for my PC! 😁😂 Thanks for another good video. PS Loving seeing the Animals in your other vids. 👍
PPS These soundbars (HT--SF150 in my case) draw around 1.7W when off, 3.5W idle no sound, and around 6W at a fair volume. Didn't test the Max as I stay in a flat, and don't want to upset the neighbours. Useable frequency seems to be from around 65Hz - 20Khz. They sound pretty decent. 👍
Nice one mate 👍 well done 👏I must admit after I uploaded the video I had a search on eBay and found that there had been quite a few sold with 'no power or 'dead' so I do think this is a common fault. Glad you managed to score one and fix it!
Nice fix and an modded to be better than the original design too it should last longer now.
Cheers mate 👍
Well done Mick 😀👍👍👍
Cheers Mike 👍
cooling, cooling, cooling.........heat being the great destroyer of semiconductors and capacitors........the heat is trapped inside the case........a hole or two for cross ventilation might be a good idea too......nice fix, 73 Mike K1FNX near Boston
Thanks Mike 👍After I uploaded this I had a look on eBay and there was loads of these in completed items listed as "dead" or "no power" and even two active listings when I looked yesterday, so I think there is a design problem with them.
Nice work mate
Cheers Paul👍
Beancounters at Sony, trying to save a few pence... That poor original diode probably spent most of it's life operating right at the edge of it's design specs, and the location of that diode didn't provide much cooling. Nice fix, Mick!
Cheers mate 👍I think you hit the nail on the head!
I don’t think anything indicates it was being run anywhere close to its specs - it’s specified at 150V, 15A at a case temp of 125C, which should be well beyond what it’s being used at. The board would have shown signs of overheating if it had been running that hot, and 22V is nowhere close to the operating limit. The only real question is current. No way was this sound bar using 15A continuously, but if the output caps were undersized, perhaps the pulse current was too high too often.
Another top repair!!!
Thanks mate 👍
Great work as per ! I like this sort of stuff but it's nearly always difficult to pin down. Rating seems fine so batch problems at Sony ? and cheaper in the long run to let it run its course as opposed to recall and repair ? It would be interesting to see if these failures happen in a 'burst' like between two dates or just one year or maybe by serial number. Personally I think it is almost certainly something to do with Kier Starmer.
Cheers Andymouse! After I uploaded I had a look on eBay, and there was two listed "dead" and "no power". There was also a lot of completed listings which had very similar descriptions, so I think it is a common problem with them.
I would be interested to know why the dead short on the diode didn’t show on the thermal camera. Excellent video as always. Thank you.
Thanks 👍Perhaps the PSU was sensing a high current draw and shutting down, as the dim bulb tester (input side) wasn't drawing much current either).
Nice fix Mick and a great modification i wonder how they overlooked this during development 😊
Thanks Gary 👍I'm not so sure. I did notice after uploading that there's lots of these previously sold on eBay as "dead" or "no power". There was even two live listings when I looked the other day, so it does seem a common problem!
@BuyitFixitmight be worth having a go at them and make a video on each one 😊
Thanks for the video, tbh we've had a couple of sound bars over the years and all have simply stopped working like this one - if it happens again, I'm tempted to follow your example and check the power circuit before consigning it to the recycling bin! I do wonder how many perfectly serviceable home good get chucked because of poor/deliberately bad design?
Thanks 👍 I'd imagine quite a lot. After I uploaded the video I had a look on eBay and there was a lot of these previously sold as 'dead' or 'no power' so it does seem a common fault.
Many soundbars have common issues with failing components. I fixed my brothers bose soundbar which was a failed chip that was dead easy to diagnose as there are so many videos about it. Thanks to people like yourself, almost anyone can repair these things and save them from e waste. $13aud chip to repair a $1000 soundbar 🤷♂️. As always. Love your work. Maybe one day we'll get to see what you look like lol (maybe we have in an old video I haven't seen yet?)
Thanks 👍 I decided when I started the channel that I didn't want to be on camera. It took me all my time hearing the sound of my voice recorded as it sounds weird when you hear yourself. I'm quite a shy person and didn't really do this to be 'famous' or anything. I did the channel to help people repair stuff 😊
@BuyitFixit
I csn relate to that. Im very private myself and would likely do the same. Anyway keep up the good work. Always thoroughly enjoy.
I'm more into vintage tech, I still use CRT TV, set top box, 2ch amp and bookshelf or tower speakers, runs rings around any flat screen or sound bar
@VaughnfromPeterborough
I dont like soundbars at all. Kids have em for their pcs as they were a cheap option however as much as i love older recievers as i think the sound quality is much better on some of those old vintage units but i run a yamaha reciever due to needing the hdmi inputs etc and an almost 20 year old jensen surround sound system with active fronts and active sub.
@DP-from-OZ An older set top box gives HDMI and regular old school audio outputs (for TV) older DVD players likewise, some mid 2000 models have HDMI upscale (not bluray)
This video will help a lot of people with these sony sound bars, from ending up at the local tip.
Thanks 👍Yes hopefully. I did discover a lot have been sold on eBay with "no power" or "dead" and there was two active similar listings when I looked!
Good job Mick 👍👍👍
Cheers mate! 👍
Nice repair! Again great diagnosis to find the faulty part.
Paul, USA!!!
Cheers Paul 👍
Brilliant Mick 👌
Thanks mate 👍
Nice easy fix.
Yes, I enjoyed this one. Sometimes they can wear you down a bit.
Top job. A diode is still a diode whatever the package.
Thanks mate 👍
GREAT REPAIR MATE ❤👌👍
Cheers David glad you enjoyed it! 👍
11:58 but then you have to fastidiously remove all traces of the desoldering alloy, since it weakens the regular solder even in trace amounts. For me, this makes it the desoldering method of absolute last resort.
Two-leaded components like this is what desoldering tweezers are made for - or just use two soldering irons.
(At work, I do have an older station with tweezers, but if I’m just doing one or two, I just plug in the second iron on my newer station, rather than dig out the older station.)
Great video. A question: why did they use those solder traces? It's to improve thermal relief?
I think to handle more current, so yes I'd say.
Always enjoy the repair videos, but what we really, REALLY wanted was an update on Savannah 😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks Simon 👍I'll get some footage. She was racing round one of the fields the other day with her mum in the sun, so I'll get a bit footage like that and add it on the end of the next video.
Another fantastic video mick more please
Thanks George 👍
Not sure it this is really an upgrade because the schottky diode has lower voltage drop so less heat.
Good point, although I'm not sure if heat or voltage spikes killed it. It could be that the higher voltage rating is what was needed. After uploading I discovered that there's a lot of these been sold on eBay either "Dead" or "No Power".
Had the same issue on mine except it destroyed the transformer somehow. Just soldered a dc jack to it and now I run it on an external power supply.
Very interesting. After I uploaded this, I found that a lot have been sold on eBay with "no power" or "dead" so I think it's a common problem. Nice work around. I did similar with a starlink router on here after I found the main PSU IC that was blown was programmed.
Morning Mick
Hey Neil 👋
Very interesting repair. I’m an old cynic, design fault or designed failure?
Hard to say for sure, but it certainly seems like a common weak point! 🤔
Nice one, Mick. I knew it wouldn't take you long to sort it. You probably spent more time on the screws (Ha-Ha). Thanks for sharing.
😂😂😂Cheers Brian, yes there was a bloody lot of screws!
I would check ESR on the output capacitors as well, could be the root cause of blown diode.
Good idea. I did find that there has been quite a lot of these sold on eBay with the fault of "no power" or "dead". There's two on there at the moment. I also saw a post be someone that theirs had died after 6 months! ca.community.sony.com/s/question/0D5Dp00001UCCk5KAH/hts100f-wont-power-on-after-working-6-months
@BuyitFixit6 month is too early for caps to fail. Unless the rating is not matching the ripple and kills them early.
Nice 👍
Cheers! 👍
Yes Mick designfault well done
Thanks Lewis 👍
if you look closely you can see the coating missing on the diode. burnt off?
I'm not too sure on that one, I would have thought there would be other marks on the board if it was getting hot such as a scorch mark on the PCB for instance.
Nice bit of fault finding there. Don’t you just love a dim-lamp tester? Looking forward to next one. ✌🏻
Thanks Steven 👍
have one of these, and the bass performance is very poor. I’m just wondering if there’s any chance to make a subwoofer out of it, maybe by adding some internal modifications ?
Excellent repair my friend
Thanks 👍I've got a similar model here myself, but it has a separate sub woofer that connects to it wirelessly.
thank you
You're welcome! 👍
Amazing replacing that diode with one that has a different value and working perfectly. You have a good knowledge of components. It reminds me of a scene in Back to the Future lll, where the time circuit control microchip is damaged and they had to adapt, using the components at the time, such as valves on the bonnet of the DeLorean. Doc Brown would be proud of you, Mick.
😂😂😂Thank you 👍Now where did I put that flux capacitor!
I laughed out loud when I saw that chassis full of tubes on the front of the car! Looked like an old fashioned juke box amplifier! I doubt that 2 percent of the audience got that visual sight gag!
@quantumleap359 I thought it was a great scene. The old white-walled tyres was a nice touch, too. A lot of thought went into those Back to the Future movies - a great writing team.
I've fixed the exact same model, which had a solder bridge across two pins of the SoC. It belongs to a friend of mine that said it used to work and then suddenly stopped responding to commands. After I removed the solder bridge, it worked fine, but I cannot explain how that thing worked in the beginning. Anyway, these soundbars are not that good, they seem to have all sorts of weird quirks and quality control issues.
Interesting. I did discover after uploading, that a lot have been sold on eBay with "no power" or "dead". There was even two active similar listings. I think this might actually be a common problem with them.
great job agian
Thanks David 👍
13:24 The "new" device you've installed is rated at 20A EACH diode; so by paralleling them you actually have 40A allowance 😅If this won't survive here, then nothing would 🤣
😂😂😂👍
A nice fix, a nice vodeo and thank you Mick. Take care. 👍👍
Thanks Jimmy 👍
Another fix 👌
Thanks Kevin 👍
Well done brother. Dumb diodes. Got my buddy’s Bose all fixed up. Sent him a vid of it working rocking out some older Iron Maiden video!!!
Nice one, nothing better than saving a bit of kit! 🔊
I sold my Sony Soundbar on eBay as spares or repair. A shame i didn't know you 2 years ago. I sold mine to around £35.00 if i remember rightly. That did include the Subwoofer too. I'm kicking myself because mine just stopped working 🙂
Interesting. Did yours have the same symptoms? I checked on eBay after uploading the video, and and seems a lot of faulty ones have sold with "dead" or "no power" so I think this is indeed a common problem.
@BuyitFixit As far as i can remember it just wouldn't turn on one day. Which i guess was the same common fault. It wasn't really used that much either but we had owned it a couple of years too.
This repair must have seemed a breeze compared to the challenges of the Space Invaders machine ... good fix!
Thanks mate 👍Yes, way easier than all of the work I put into the space invaders. I still can't work out YT to be fair. It's like reading magic tea leaves on what's going to be a good video and get lots of views 🤷♂️
Same part failure sounds like poor QC parts....
I though that possibly, but I did see someone else fixing a similar sound bar, with the same diode failure but it was a different make of diode. It seems this is a pretty common issue due to the number of them in "completed listings" on eBay described as "dead" or "no power".
prebuilt obsolence