DIRT GROUT MIX RECIPE: Full guide is shown in the basing minis video :) Brown and black unsanded tile grout Dirt cooked in the oven and filtered through a sieve. You want to grind this dirt up with some kind of improv mortar and pestle into smaller grains - it doesn’t need to be dust like the grout but should be otherwise pretty small. I strain it through a sieve to get rid of anything too big. The ratio you want here is going to depend on the colour of your local grout I just mixed in a bit of black at a time until the colour darkened down to match the original dirt. I ended up with about a 4:2:1 ratio of dirt:brown grout:black grout I now add 1/2 a ratio (shot glass) of natural earth yellow pigment to make the reddish tint go away, without turning it grey by adding more black grout or grout mix. I added this to 12 (should be 16? Update video comments?) dirt, 8 brown, 4 black grout. So its more like adding 1/8 of a glass to the minimum ratio shown above (4:2:1 then 1/8th of pigment) LEOPARD SPOTTING TECHNIQUE: Update 2024 2:1 mix of carbon black to burnt umber ink mixed with 40 drops (not 40:1) with water seems to make a nice tan rock (deserts) Pure carbon black with 7:1 water makes a nice neutral stone grey Adding panes grey gets some interesting colours but often ends up looking blue, green or unnatural on a tile I found when placing on existing tiles Painting Mountain/Cave Stone Over grey foam I start with a coat of 2:1 neutral grey and tan, mixed with 1 part matte mod podge. This may look more tan that you might expect, in my experience it tends to dry more grey when painted over grey or black. If your foam isn't grey you can start with black mixed with mod podge, and then do the tan-grey layer over it. This is what I do over styrodur pieces. layer up with drybrushing, firstly with a heavy drybrush of a 1:2 mix of neutral grey and tan, which gives an earthier, more natural look to the stone but keeps the cold grey in the recesses. Again, this may look more tan that you might expect, but also bear in mind the wash will settle down the colour quite a lot. final drybrush of white over both. I drybrushed in all directions for a more even spread. I found this was best to do over sharp edges and sticking out areas of stone only, rather than across the whole piece. This draws the eye to interesting areas of the piece while also adding variety across the pieces and making them look less monotone. You want to be careful when drybrushing that your paint doesn’t dry completely out. This may sound counterintuitive, but when drybrushing, you want barely any paint on the brush, but you do still want the paint to be wet (from the paint, not added water!). Once it dries you want to get the bulk of it off the brush with some quick brushes on scrap paper towels, then reapply wet paint and wipe most off. Once these were done and completely dry, as in I let them dry for 12 hours at least to avoid the wash rehydrating the paint, I gave everything a coat of homemade black wash. I do this over a few layers of newspaper, which is good at soaking up excess wash rather than letting it pool and dry, staining the bottom of the pieces, as long as you check it periodically as it dries. I move it slightly, or to fresh newspaper if needed and mop up wash collecting at the bottom of the tiles with some paper towels, again so it doesn’t pool and leave marks at the bottom. If you've made this kind of wash before it's basically the same as the black brown wash I usually use except it's pure black ink, and no brown. The recipe is listed below. I then added some dirt grout mix in areas where mud might gather, cracks mostly, and seal with two layers of scenic sealant (as shown in the video) Finally I add two layers of matt varnish to dull the mod podge down and seal it, as said in the video. SCENIC SEALANT RECIPE: This stuff is really easy to mix, I use the following formula: 1 part mod podge 4 or more parts water - you can make this as thick or thin as you like, and just use more layers to make it harder. A drop of dish soap (fairy liquid type stuff) or flow improver - this helps it…well…flow :) The more mod podge, the darker and more 'wet' the dirt will look when dry. But you can use multiple thinner layers and build up strength that way too. MAGNET SAFETY: Don’t use around small children or animals, if ingested these can be dangerous. Never let very strong magnets slam together, especially thin ones. They can and will smash under a lot of force, and then become very sharp, highly magnetic shrapnel. Not good. Easy to avoid though, just take care. GROUT/SANDING/WIRE BRUSH SAFETY Wear a dust mask and ideally have good ventilation or an extractor fan on over your workspace when doing these activities. I am no medical expert, but the advice I have found seems to be of the mind that a little exposure your body can deal with and expel, but larger and especially longer term repeat exposure can cause problems -all easily avoided with a proper dusk mask. AIRBRUSH/SPRAY CAN/ENAMEL PAINTS/SUPERGLUE/ISOPROPL ALCOHOL SAFETY To be clear - superglue here refers to extended use. Quickly using some superglue is, to my best knowledge, harmless, which is why nobody bats an eye at it normally. But if you're in an unventilated room with highly liquid superglue for hours on end? That's a bit different, wear a filter mask! as a general rule, these things should always be done while in a VERY well ventilated space OR while wearing a fume filter mask, if not both. I tend to use an extraction fan and mask, and open the window in the room when I'm done. Iso, unlike the others (as far as I've been able to ascertain) can be metabolised by your body, albeit with a bit of a nasty headache. It basically gives you a hangover, which kind of makes sense given what it is… CUTTING FOAM The research I've done into the subject points to the standard white fumes being mostly harmless carbon dioxide (the stuff you breathe out anyway). That said, much like hotboxing in a room without ventilation, its generally a good idea to not let CO2 build up in a room you're breathing in, or you'll get a nasty headache as your body metabolises it. Black fumes from burning foam ARE harmful and should be ventilated/avoided if possible, but these rarely occur when using a hot wire cutter like we do - its just something to be aware of. DIMENSIONS: Card STL stamp: 1/16" chipboard triple stack of 2.5" square pieces, glued over the centre of a 3" square piece cut 1/4" strips to 2 and 9/16" long and sharpen one side
@@RPArchiveOfficial It's a great idea! can you share the iron used for this? I don't see it in the materials. Do you think it would work if mixed with paint as well?
This is absurdly cool. You might actually have a viable product range here, it looks so useful and way better than needing an entire additional room to store terrain in.
After the the iron-mixed plaster rocks have cured, coat them with a very thin layer of UV resin (3D printing resin) and cure it (sunlight will do), instead of doing a thin layer of plaster in the mould to protect the iron. It's thinner/less impeding on the magnet and far more durable. I did this a couple years ago myself for a miniature film set on a stop-motion film and they look and work great to this day.
Suggestion for sourcing iron powder: I blacksmith as another hobby, and one of the side effects of grinding is a buildup of iron dust under the grinder. If you can find a friend who has a bench grinder, or make friends with someone in a local metal fabrication shop, they'll be happy to let you gather all the iron dust you need, since it helps them keep their shop clean.
I'd love to see how the terrain gets used in a mock adventure. To see the planning and logistics of having so many terrain pieces would be so interesting to me. The first set piece is a tavern/inn where the characters gather. Then the town square. Then a road in the countryside. Then a cave entrance. Then an underdark temple. Etc etc.
Matt... just incredible. I dont know why I'm surprised, your work is always a cut above, but it's still continues to amaze to see you innovate so much. I feel with this iron blend you are approaching peak modularity! I can't wait to see what you do next and live my crafting dreams vicariously through a much more skilled artist 😂
The attention to literally how to hold tiles as you spread the materials over them is what amazes me. Thank you for considering all aspects of the creative process. ❤ Love the format of the videos, too. Such calming voiceovers.
After all those years of crafting I would love an extended video tour of all of the things you have and maybe a sped up example build video. Great stuff. I wish I had the endurance to craft like this. I use Battle Systems terrain because its easy, very flexible and fullfills most of my needs. But I always come back to your channel because what you have is simply amazing.
I'm impressed at how every new video, you make something incredibly greater than the precedent. I've always wondered though if you had an exemple of a rpg session where you use them, to see in action how you can create/adapt to your players decisions. If one day you want to make a video of how you use them during your games, that could be really interesting to see. Anyway, good to see you back, hope you're getting better. I wish one day I will have a place big enough to allow me to try to build the things you've shown over the years.
I can always count on 2 things watching your videos: 1. you're going to do something so innovative it feels like a magic trick, and 2. I'm going to be super inspired to craft afterwards. Thank you for sharing!
I was not ready to be in the video... hahaha I am a mixture of excited and shook (I just never really view myself as anyone deserving of that kind of recognition). I am happy to see you looking like you are doing well and feeling better, a sentiment I am sure is shared with everyone here. Killer video; magnetic grass and mud and rocks, OH MY. Much excite, so TTRPG
Glad to see you back Matt. I'm currently building my first terrain using scrap cardboard. One day I'll be able to get some foam and actually make some magnetic stuff.
So cool! I don't even play DND/tabletop games but can't watch enough of these videos. I'm curious how someone with 0 crafting equipment or experience would start this hobby without blowing loads of money on tools and materials.
Start with a small sheet of xps foam and a knife/hot glue gun :) check out my beginner to pro video, there's a bit near the start on getting started without a hot wire and a little project to try :)
This is just an awesome and detailed guide on how .. just brilliant.. I mean.. I’d never do it because that’s hours of work for a single tile.. but cannot deny, it’s super impressive looking, but as a part time hobbyist, I don’t have anywhere near enough time..
Heck me I love the look of all your stuff. It has such an amazing aesthetic to it that definitely reflects the hard work and creative design that you put into your stuff. Would love a full tour of your entire hobby/terrain collection at some point. And congrats on 100k, you definitely have worked hard for those numbers and I'm hoping more people find your stuff!
This is awesome! So happy to see more RUclips content and very excited to implement this magnetic system. .P.S. Your hair is looking glorious Matt, congrats on reaching 100k!
Hello! SO! It's nice to have you back! I discovered your channel a few months ago and I enjoyed all your content. I watched all your videos in a few days, they were really well done that it consumed my time. It really helped me improving my D&D games and I'm forever in your debt. My players are also very happy and it is all thanks to you. I haven't magnetised anything yet, but I did my own modular terrain and decorations thanks to your tutorials. You even took the time to answer one of my questions in one of those videos, so thanks. I never did wall, so that wall stamper is really juicy. But I have to be honest, I don't know how Patreon works and I can't find the links to the packs or the wall stamper. I'm sorry but if anyone could help me, and tell me where to look for it I would be very grateful... I'm not that old, but I feel like a grandpa right now hahaha.
The wall stamper link is in the description, 10 lines down I think, it says free wall stamp (in nov/dec) :) the post is for free members so you might need to create an account but it's free to download Glad I've been helpful otherwise! 😁
@@RPArchiveOfficial Yes, I know, but when I click on the link I don't know how to download it from patreon. I'm a member of your patreon since august, but don't really know how to use it. I only can click on the image but I see no link. Sorry for being so helpless 😭😭
@@Arnedillo92 the link should lead to a post, the download files should be at the bottom of the post :) initially I'd forgotten to add the files so this may have been my fault :/
DIRT GROUT MIX RECIPE:
Full guide is shown in the basing minis video :)
Brown and black unsanded tile grout
Dirt cooked in the oven and filtered through a sieve. You want to grind this dirt up with some kind of improv mortar and pestle into smaller grains - it doesn’t need to be dust like the grout but should be otherwise pretty small. I strain it through a sieve to get rid of anything too big.
The ratio you want here is going to depend on the colour of your local grout
I just mixed in a bit of black at a time until the colour darkened down to match the original dirt.
I ended up with about a 4:2:1 ratio of dirt:brown grout:black grout
I now add 1/2 a ratio (shot glass) of natural earth yellow pigment to make the reddish tint go away, without turning it grey by adding more black grout or grout mix. I added this to 12 (should be 16? Update video comments?) dirt, 8 brown, 4 black grout. So its more like adding 1/8 of a glass to the minimum ratio shown above (4:2:1 then 1/8th of pigment)
LEOPARD SPOTTING TECHNIQUE:
Update 2024
2:1 mix of carbon black to burnt umber ink mixed with 40 drops (not 40:1) with water seems to make a nice tan rock (deserts)
Pure carbon black with 7:1 water makes a nice neutral stone grey
Adding panes grey gets some interesting colours but often ends up looking blue, green or unnatural on a tile I found when placing on existing tiles
Painting Mountain/Cave Stone
Over grey foam I start with a coat of 2:1 neutral grey and tan, mixed with 1 part matte mod podge. This may look more tan that you might expect, in my experience it tends to dry more grey when painted over grey or black.
If your foam isn't grey you can start with black mixed with mod podge, and then do the tan-grey layer over it. This is what I do over styrodur pieces.
layer up with drybrushing, firstly with a heavy drybrush of a 1:2 mix of neutral grey and tan, which gives an earthier, more natural look to the stone but keeps the cold grey in the recesses.
Again, this may look more tan that you might expect, but also bear in mind the wash will settle down the colour quite a lot.
final drybrush of white over both. I drybrushed in all directions for a more even spread.
I found this was best to do over sharp edges and sticking out areas of stone only, rather than across the whole piece. This draws the eye to interesting areas of the piece while also adding variety across the pieces and making them look less monotone.
You want to be careful when drybrushing that your paint doesn’t dry completely out. This may sound counterintuitive, but when drybrushing, you want barely any paint on the brush, but you do still want the paint to be wet (from the paint, not added water!). Once it dries you want to get the bulk of it off the brush with some quick brushes on scrap paper towels, then reapply wet paint and wipe most off.
Once these were done and completely dry, as in I let them dry for 12 hours at least to avoid the wash rehydrating the paint, I gave everything a coat of homemade black wash. I do this over a few layers of newspaper, which is good at soaking up excess wash rather than letting it pool and dry, staining the bottom of the pieces, as long as you check it periodically as it dries. I move it slightly, or to fresh newspaper if needed and mop up wash collecting at the bottom of the tiles with some paper towels, again so it doesn’t pool and leave marks at the bottom.
If you've made this kind of wash before it's basically the same as the black brown wash I usually use except it's pure black ink, and no brown. The recipe is listed below.
I then added some dirt grout mix in areas where mud might gather, cracks mostly, and seal with two layers of scenic sealant (as shown in the video)
Finally I add two layers of matt varnish to dull the mod podge down and seal it, as said in the video.
SCENIC SEALANT RECIPE:
This stuff is really easy to mix, I use the following formula:
1 part mod podge
4 or more parts water - you can make this as thick or thin as you like, and just use more layers to make it harder.
A drop of dish soap (fairy liquid type stuff) or flow improver - this helps it…well…flow :)
The more mod podge, the darker and more 'wet' the dirt will look when dry. But you can use multiple thinner layers and build up strength that way too.
MAGNET SAFETY:
Don’t use around small children or animals, if ingested these can be dangerous. Never let very strong magnets slam together, especially thin ones. They can and will smash under a lot of force, and then become very sharp, highly magnetic shrapnel. Not good. Easy to avoid though, just take care.
GROUT/SANDING/WIRE BRUSH SAFETY
Wear a dust mask and ideally have good ventilation or an extractor fan on over your workspace when doing these activities.
I am no medical expert, but the advice I have found seems to be of the mind that a little exposure your body can deal with and expel, but larger and especially longer term repeat exposure can cause problems -all easily avoided with a proper dusk mask.
AIRBRUSH/SPRAY CAN/ENAMEL PAINTS/SUPERGLUE/ISOPROPL ALCOHOL SAFETY
To be clear - superglue here refers to extended use. Quickly using some superglue is, to my best knowledge, harmless, which is why nobody bats an eye at it normally. But if you're in an unventilated room with highly liquid superglue for hours on end? That's a bit different, wear a filter mask!
as a general rule, these things should always be done while in a VERY well ventilated space OR while wearing a fume filter mask, if not both. I tend to use an extraction fan and mask, and open the window in the room when I'm done.
Iso, unlike the others (as far as I've been able to ascertain) can be metabolised by your body, albeit with a bit of a nasty headache. It basically gives you a hangover, which kind of makes sense given what it is…
CUTTING FOAM
The research I've done into the subject points to the standard white fumes being mostly harmless carbon dioxide (the stuff you breathe out anyway). That said, much like hotboxing in a room without ventilation, its generally a good idea to not let CO2 build up in a room you're breathing in, or you'll get a nasty headache as your body metabolises it.
Black fumes from burning foam ARE harmful and should be ventilated/avoided if possible, but these rarely occur when using a hot wire cutter like we do - its just something to be aware of.
DIMENSIONS:
Card STL stamp:
1/16" chipboard
triple stack of 2.5" square pieces, glued over the centre of a 3" square piece
cut 1/4" strips to 2 and 9/16" long and sharpen one side
I thought you'd finished making videos. I suppose you can't keep a good man down.
The return of the king !
Hail 🍻
I prefer the 2 towers
All hail!!
All Hail the King!
Battle of the two magnets!
Magnetic dirt, and it actually works... back with another game-changing innovation I see.
I try 😄
@@RPArchiveOfficial It's a great idea! can you share the iron used for this? I don't see it in the materials.
Do you think it would work if mixed with paint as well?
Me, turning to my partner who builds terrain and dioramas with me. "THIS MAD LAD..."
This is absurdly cool. You might actually have a viable product range here, it looks so useful and way better than needing an entire additional room to store terrain in.
After the the iron-mixed plaster rocks have cured, coat them with a very thin layer of UV resin (3D printing resin) and cure it (sunlight will do), instead of doing a thin layer of plaster in the mould to protect the iron. It's thinner/less impeding on the magnet and far more durable.
I did this a couple years ago myself for a miniature film set on a stop-motion film and they look and work great to this day.
Suggestion for sourcing iron powder: I blacksmith as another hobby, and one of the side effects of grinding is a buildup of iron dust under the grinder. If you can find a friend who has a bench grinder, or make friends with someone in a local metal fabrication shop, they'll be happy to let you gather all the iron dust you need, since it helps them keep their shop clean.
You should just start making videos of you putting together scenes from all your terrain, I would watch the crap out of those
Yes! I Second this Motion!
I'd love to see how the terrain gets used in a mock adventure. To see the planning and logistics of having so many terrain pieces would be so interesting to me. The first set piece is a tavern/inn where the characters gather. Then the town square. Then a road in the countryside. Then a cave entrance. Then an underdark temple. Etc etc.
I would also watch these… lots of inspiration
Congrats on 100k Matt. you really deserve it!
Thanks man!
Your commitment to magnetism is epic and admirable.
Literally every time you post a video, it's a complete game changer.
Also, so is your magnificent mane.
The hair is magnificent.
@@OchsSlayer HIS HAIR GROWS WITH EACH MOTE OF POWER HE ACCUMULATES see Matt Coville and Mercer.
I can't wait to see the grass tutorial.
Matt... just incredible. I dont know why I'm surprised, your work is always a cut above, but it's still continues to amaze to see you innovate so much.
I feel with this iron blend you are approaching peak modularity! I can't wait to see what you do next and live my crafting dreams vicariously through a much more skilled artist 😂
We all feel like unskilled artists until one day, someone calls you skilled :) just keep at it!
The attention to literally how to hold tiles as you spread the materials over them is what amazes me. Thank you for considering all aspects of the creative process. ❤
Love the format of the videos, too. Such calming voiceovers.
Good to see you back Mat!
3:42 in and I have never heard this many numbers in my entire life. All jokes aside - very, very awesome video. Thank you once again.
There will come a day where our own Party can adventure on tiles created by your methods and vision. Thank you Matt!
magnetic dirt anyone else i'd say they were crazy but u find a way, great video as always
Wooooo!! You are the undisputed master of experimenting and magnetizing and this is absolutely brilliant.
Thanks Raech! 😁
Including the iron is such an inspired idea! Even better work than usual with this one (which is saying something!)
Thank you man! 😁
Somtimes I wish I could give videos more than one thumbs up. So much information here. And an amazing finished product!
After all those years of crafting I would love an extended video tour of all of the things you have and maybe a sped up example build video.
Great stuff. I wish I had the endurance to craft like this. I use Battle Systems terrain because its easy, very flexible and fullfills most of my needs. But I always come back to your channel because what you have is simply amazing.
This is cool as hell. I don’t even make or use IRL terrain since my games are all online these days, I just love watching these videos
I'm impressed at how every new video, you make something incredibly greater than the precedent. I've always wondered though if you had an exemple of a rpg session where you use them, to see in action how you can create/adapt to your players decisions. If one day you want to make a video of how you use them during your games, that could be really interesting to see.
Anyway, good to see you back, hope you're getting better. I wish one day I will have a place big enough to allow me to try to build the things you've shown over the years.
this is PhD level terrain making. seriously, you've outdone yourself sir! Outstanding.!
man, you are the Michelangelo of tabletop terrain! your videos always blow my mind!
Already won me over with the Fantastic Mr. Fox clip!
He’s back! Hair is looking lush. Great to see you back man
Yes, the legend is back! Thank you for your video! Always a pleasure, to watch these tutorials.
You're going to make me so poor. I LOVE your stuff, glad you're back.
Great to see you back Matt and Congrats on 100K 🥳🥳🎉🎉🎊🎊
Thanks so much man! 😁
Literally game changing work...
I can always count on 2 things watching your videos: 1. you're going to do something so innovative it feels like a magic trick, and 2. I'm going to be super inspired to craft afterwards. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks man! 😁
Welcome back, Matt! I'm happy you've returned with more invaluable information.
the return of the king
Happy to See you again ❤
Genius Idea, using Iron Powder!
I was not ready to be in the video... hahaha I am a mixture of excited and shook (I just never really view myself as anyone deserving of that kind of recognition). I am happy to see you looking like you are doing well and feeling better, a sentiment I am sure is shared with everyone here. Killer video; magnetic grass and mud and rocks, OH MY. Much excite, so TTRPG
The king is back! 👑👑👑
Glad to see you back Matt. I'm currently building my first terrain using scrap cardboard. One day I'll be able to get some foam and actually make some magnetic stuff.
This is some seriously next level terrain!
Welcome back! Great to see you posting again!
More to come!
You truly are a master of your craft and we are blessed to have you! Thank you so much for all the work you put in these videos and for the community.
Thank you man, You are very welcome :)
So cool! I don't even play DND/tabletop games but can't watch enough of these videos. I'm curious how someone with 0 crafting equipment or experience would start this hobby without blowing loads of money on tools and materials.
Start with a small sheet of xps foam and a knife/hot glue gun :) check out my beginner to pro video, there's a bit near the start on getting started without a hot wire and a little project to try :)
Honestly you're the best terrain youtuber and it's not even close. ❤
You have some genius ideas sir! Every single method in this video is phenomenal.
This is amazing work. What a contribution to our community. I cannot wait to make these. Thank you so much for detailing everything so thoroughly.
Again an absolut amazing work and absolut astonishing new ways you invented. Really interesting idea of ironpowder.
YOU SAW IT HERE FIRST GUYS!!!!!!
Incredible technique, and incredible mane! Looking at your channel photo now is a shock.
This is just an awesome and detailed guide on how .. just brilliant.. I mean.. I’d never do it because that’s hours of work for a single tile.. but cannot deny, it’s super impressive looking, but as a part time hobbyist, I don’t have anywhere near enough time..
Dude, you just keep raising the bar. Wicked!
00:58 So proud to be here at some point in the future!!!! :D
Glad to have you back sir. Looking forward to new content.
this is GENIUS!!! unbelievable problem solving skills here!
Looks amazing! You have done some serious research
That I did 😅
your a wizard, and with the long hair even look like one. love all your ideas and your look !!
Magnetic dirt is NEXT LEVEL. Holy crap.
You are back! Hope you are well. Looking forward to enjoy some cobtent from you 😊
I am :) much better than I was last year!
Heck me I love the look of all your stuff. It has such an amazing aesthetic to it that definitely reflects the hard work and creative design that you put into your stuff. Would love a full tour of your entire hobby/terrain collection at some point.
And congrats on 100k, you definitely have worked hard for those numbers and I'm hoping more people find your stuff!
Thank you man, it really feels good finally getting there :)
This is awesome! So happy to see more RUclips content and very excited to implement this magnetic system.
.P.S. Your hair is looking glorious Matt, congrats on reaching 100k!
Thanks Turnip 😁
Great Video. (For the Algorithm) Always enjoy seeing what you come up with next! The iron powder is a very clever solution.
This is lovely to dive into again even though I’ll probably never actually make any of this
New SUB here, Thank you so much for this. It is so cool also thank you for putting also putting both CM and Inches in your videos.
You left no stone unturned 👌
I love your videos. Never has so much work been done to create tiles! But they are magnificent.
Thank you very much!
Honestly surprised it took this long to get to 100k considering the quality of your videos.
Great video very happy to see you again, definitely a wizard of tiles. So amazing your work.
Love seeing you back! Excellent work as always!
Glad to have you back
Looks great 😊 Thanks for the great ideas ❤
Been looking forward to this for a long while! Keep up the great work Matt!
Glad to see you again! Thank you for another awesome video! ❤
YES!!!! Missed you man!!!
Matt is back! 👍
That is freakishly brilliant. Well done! I have been pondering magnet spray and wondering if that stuff was actually magic or gimmick.
Welcome back man
You're amazing!
Hello! SO! It's nice to have you back! I discovered your channel a few months ago and I enjoyed all your content. I watched all your videos in a few days, they were really well done that it consumed my time. It really helped me improving my D&D games and I'm forever in your debt. My players are also very happy and it is all thanks to you. I haven't magnetised anything yet, but I did my own modular terrain and decorations thanks to your tutorials. You even took the time to answer one of my questions in one of those videos, so thanks.
I never did wall, so that wall stamper is really juicy. But I have to be honest, I don't know how Patreon works and I can't find the links to the packs or the wall stamper. I'm sorry but if anyone could help me, and tell me where to look for it I would be very grateful... I'm not that old, but I feel like a grandpa right now hahaha.
The wall stamper link is in the description, 10 lines down I think, it says free wall stamp (in nov/dec) :) the post is for free members so you might need to create an account but it's free to download
Glad I've been helpful otherwise! 😁
@@RPArchiveOfficial Yes, I know, but when I click on the link I don't know how to download it from patreon. I'm a member of your patreon since august, but don't really know how to use it. I only can click on the image but I see no link. Sorry for being so helpless 😭😭
@@Arnedillo92 the link should lead to a post, the download files should be at the bottom of the post :) initially I'd forgotten to add the files so this may have been my fault :/
Mats stuff is amazing!
You are a genius! This is the way. I have spoken
Man I want to play at your table. Hopefully soon I can start crafting things like this.
Yaaaassss, he has returned!
Hope to be able to build this one one day, great build
Go for it!
You are the best!!! Thanks for this great idea. So inspiring as usual. 🤘🏻😉🔥
I think you enjoy more creating the system that using it xD
He’s returned!
you can use steel powder instead of iron powder if you want to avoid rust
Stainless steel is non-magnetic. Regular steel will rust.
Another banger, as per usual
You appear to have spent the time between videos becoming Wolverine. It suits you!
Great video as always dude
He’s back!!!!
Putting iron shavings in the dirt.
"Art emulates nature"
Welcome back
Great video, glad to see you more hale. Have you experimented with wood stain for your rock coloring?
I have not, I'd imagine it being too thick and sticky? I've used it on balsa, but interesting concept using it on plaster...
Gogo gadget algorithm boost!
I bow before the Master of Terrain!
I don't know when, but someday I'm going to have enough free time to make some of this terrain.
I'll never get over how my ambition wants me to get all these things done.
quest to magnetize the world continues.
He hath risen!
Wow, you're hair is majestic man
Amazing 🎉