Thank you for posting these fantastic videos. I find it incredible to see a car I love so much being ripped apart and then repaired with such expertise. Keep it up!
I think you are lucky to be working in an industry that allows you to use your skills and creativity. You obviously have have a passion for your work. Keep it up and we will keep watching.
I am learning a great deal from your videos! Keep up the great work so i can finish my 73 Tr6. I find I keep going back to your videos to help as I approach the next issue or assembly of my car !
Much better you found the shoddy work on the rear deck now, than after it was painted. The repair reminded me of Peter's (jademuttley)'s restoration work on his beloved Vitesses. "Specialized tool for rear valences…" :-D
Yeah, I forget sometimes. I have to be more careful with my body, otherwise I will need restoration LOL. I learned not to weld without a helmet already, so wearing a mask and a respirator is next. Thank you!
It is amazing how universal our body parts are, isn't it? We use them and even abuse them for everything and then we complain it hurts here and there. For example I can't remember when was the last time my iPhone recognized my fingerprint, but I still use gloves rarely...
Isn't it so frustrating when you have to fix someone elses rubbish repair, but you did a great job of it. Funny when you mentioned cutting out some more TR6, I don't think there is much original Triumph left in my Vitesse either haha
It is even more frustrating when those repairs happened in front of my eyes. Or I should say behind my back. We hired this guy especially for body work and engine repairs. He was doing that for more than 20 years he said.... So the TR6 was his first job in our shop. He did it so fast that I didn't even manage to follow up while he was doing it. In no time he had body filler and primer all over the body and the panels (as they were off the body) so I thought my knowledge about bodywork sucks.... Later he figured out the panels need to actually fit on the car..... surprise...... he never fitted them while repairing them. He also rebuilt the TR4 engine, which smoked like a chimney when it started... The guy didn't last long after that, but I am still dealing with his screw ups.
thanks again for showing proper ways of repair.actual removal of all rusted out ares.this is exactly what i will be doing also. is your 74 body in bad shape like this 73?will you be showing floor and sill repairs also in the near future.I hope so.
The body on the 74 looks much better - all panels line up and as far as I can see it is almost rust free except of the floor of course. There are some bubbles under the paint in the same area between the deck and the rear fender and in the sills, but otherwise it looks solid. According to the previous owner the fenders and sills were replaced and the car has been repainted just before he took it out of the road. And I have all reasons to believe him. But it sat somewhere in a flooded area probably and the frame disappeared, taking the whole floor with it. Maybe the sills are gone too even though they look solid outside. We got new floors, inner and outer sills and bulkheads. When I start working on it I will evaluate and decide if all these need to be replaced or I can selvage some parts, but first I will start with the frame and I think I will have to work on the body while it is on the frame. I've never done floors before and I am still looking around for more educational videos. I am pushing hard n the 73 now so we can send it for paint and then I will jump on the 74. For now KJ is de-rusting and getting the frame ready for me to repair.
that area between the rear deck and where it joins the rear wing, that is a notorious rust spot because the gap between the wing and the deck always lets water in, even when the gap is filled with bondo and painted over, the body flexes and the paint and bondo eventually cracks and the water gets in and rots the top of the inner wing and the edge of the rear deck. There is a school of thought that recommends using a flexible non setting rubber sealant along that join, the problem is that when the cars were built in the factory the wings were painted off the car then fitted after so you could then get a good clean line of black sealant that wasn't overpainted as the paint always cracks eventually and looks messy.
I think even with the non-setting rubber sealant water will still get trapped on top of it and will corrode the metal. The other problem is the mud from the wheel gets stuck in the same gap underneath and every time it gets wet it will take long before it dries and basically there is no way to stop these weak spots from rusting unless you keep your car dry, which I am hoping to achieve with my Spitfire. If there is rain in the forecast just take out something else from the garage. I managed to keep myself dry with my bike all summer last year, so hopefully it will work with the Spit this one.
we have so much rain here in England, but yes they should be dry weather cars!! some people here fit an after market inside plastic wheel arch insert, similar to what a modern car has, it offers some protection to the inner wings, I've seen them on a few cars here.
Good job there Elin, Is that part of the deck panel flat or does it have some element of flare on each side like the boot lid does? I have exactly the same problem other than the botch job is much worse so I don’t have much to go on to shape a patch. If it’s flat I’ll chance trying a patch but if there are flares I think I may have to buy a new deck panel and unfortunately those are one of the most expensive panels on the car. It looked not too bad on the surface but it’s practically made of fillers and bad braising.
Thanks! It is a little flared, it follows the shape of the boot lid. But i am sure that if you can make a flat repair, you can do that as well. I cover this repair in a lot more detail on both sides of my 1974 TR6. There is a playlist on my channel about it.
Thank you for posting these fantastic videos. I find it incredible to see a car I love so much being ripped apart and then repaired with such expertise. Keep it up!
Thanks!
Elin, thanks for sharing your work. We British car enthusiasts are gaining so much insight into repair and rebuilds. Thanks again!
Thanks Alan!
I think you are lucky to be working in an industry that allows you to use your skills and creativity. You obviously have have a passion for your work. Keep it up and we will keep watching.
I am learning a great deal from your videos! Keep up the great work so i can finish my 73 Tr6. I find I keep going back to your videos to help as I approach the next issue or assembly of my car !
I am glad my videos are helpful. Good luck with your TR6
Much better you found the shoddy work on the rear deck now, than after it was painted. The repair reminded me of Peter's (jademuttley)'s restoration work on his beloved Vitesses. "Specialized tool for rear valences…" :-D
You are a patient man. I too hope the right side is complete, for the sake of your sanity! John
Well I already figured the left side hides the same surprises, so if I freak out now is the time LOL
Hey Elin, I am from Germany and i like your Videos
I learning very much about Tr6 and your Woorkstyle. Very cool.
Thanks Roman!
At least someone have some pride in what they do, excelent work Sir!
Thank you!
This is great work! Big help in showing me what to expect when I dig into my TR6 for bodywork. A+!
Thank you Tyler!
You’re the man !
Nicely done. You're doing great!
Thanks Jim!
Super job. Looking great.
Thanks!
Great work Elin ★★★★★
Thank you Lee!
Hey Elin, Wear a respirator when you paint, and a dust mask when you sand....i want you to do good work for a lot of years!
Youre triumphs only hope
Yeah, I forget sometimes. I have to be more careful with my body, otherwise I will need restoration LOL. I learned not to weld without a helmet already, so wearing a mask and a respirator is next. Thank you!
I like that "specialized tools" 😎
It is amazing how universal our body parts are, isn't it? We use them and even abuse them for everything and then we complain it hurts here and there. For example I can't remember when was the last time my iPhone recognized my fingerprint, but I still use gloves rarely...
Isn't it so frustrating when you have to fix someone elses rubbish repair, but you did a great job of it. Funny when you mentioned cutting out some more TR6, I don't think there is much original Triumph left in my Vitesse either haha
It is even more frustrating when those repairs happened in front of my eyes. Or I should say behind my back. We hired this guy especially for body work and engine repairs. He was doing that for more than 20 years he said.... So the TR6 was his first job in our shop. He did it so fast that I didn't even manage to follow up while he was doing it. In no time he had body filler and primer all over the body and the panels (as they were off the body) so I thought my knowledge about bodywork sucks.... Later he figured out the panels need to actually fit on the car..... surprise...... he never fitted them while repairing them. He also rebuilt the TR4 engine, which smoked like a chimney when it started... The guy didn't last long after that, but I am still dealing with his screw ups.
thanks again for showing proper ways of repair.actual removal of all rusted out ares.this is exactly what i will be doing also.
is your 74 body in bad shape like this 73?will you be showing floor and sill repairs also in the near future.I hope so.
The body on the 74 looks much better - all panels line up and as far as I can see it is almost rust free except of the floor of course. There are some bubbles under the paint in the same area between the deck and the rear fender and in the sills, but otherwise it looks solid. According to the previous owner the fenders and sills were replaced and the car has been repainted just before he took it out of the road. And I have all reasons to believe him. But it sat somewhere in a flooded area probably and the frame disappeared, taking the whole floor with it. Maybe the sills are gone too even though they look solid outside. We got new floors, inner and outer sills and bulkheads. When I start working on it I will evaluate and decide if all these need to be replaced or I can selvage some parts, but first I will start with the frame and I think I will have to work on the body while it is on the frame. I've never done floors before and I am still looking around for more educational videos. I am pushing hard n the 73 now so we can send it for paint and then I will jump on the 74. For now KJ is de-rusting and getting the frame ready for me to repair.
that area between the rear deck and where it joins the rear wing, that is a notorious rust spot because the gap between the wing and the deck always lets water in, even when the gap is filled with bondo and painted over, the body flexes and the paint and bondo eventually cracks and the water gets in and rots the top of the inner wing and the edge of the rear deck. There is a school of thought that recommends using a flexible non setting rubber sealant along that join, the problem is that when the cars were built in the factory the wings were painted off the car then fitted after so you could then get a good clean line of black sealant that wasn't overpainted as the paint always cracks eventually and looks messy.
I think even with the non-setting rubber sealant water will still get trapped on top of it and will corrode the metal. The other problem is the mud from the wheel gets stuck in the same gap underneath and every time it gets wet it will take long before it dries and basically there is no way to stop these weak spots from rusting unless you keep your car dry, which I am hoping to achieve with my Spitfire. If there is rain in the forecast just take out something else from the garage. I managed to keep myself dry with my bike all summer last year, so hopefully it will work with the Spit this one.
we have so much rain here in England, but yes they should be dry weather cars!! some people here fit an after market inside plastic wheel arch insert, similar to what a modern car has, it offers some protection to the inner wings, I've seen them on a few cars here.
careful painting without a mask. Don't want to foul your suck/blow mechanism. Nice work on that crap repair. Thanks for sharing.
LOL. I don't know how did that happen. I always use a mask (when on camera LOL)
Good job there Elin, Is that part of the deck panel flat or does it have some element of flare on each side like the boot lid does? I have exactly the same problem other than the botch job is much worse so I don’t have much to go on to shape a patch. If it’s flat I’ll chance trying a patch but if there are flares I think I may have to buy a new deck panel and unfortunately those are one of the most expensive panels on the car. It looked not too bad on the surface but it’s practically made of fillers and bad braising.
Thanks! It is a little flared, it follows the shape of the boot lid. But i am sure that if you can make a flat repair, you can do that as well. I cover this repair in a lot more detail on both sides of my 1974 TR6. There is a playlist on my channel about it.
@@RustyBeauties yes I’m watching the excellent series on the 74 just haven’t gotten to ghost episode yet. It’s like a university, all credit to you!
You have what's known as Sodd's Law in the UK & Murphy's Law in Ireland, the Law is, " anything that can go wrong, will go wrong ! "
Murphy is my friend. He send's the troubles early, so when it is time for fun everything goes smooth. :)
Master filler
Amazing, right?