I remember doing this job 5 years ago on my 435DS, my conduits where rupturing from rust from the inside out (though this did not effect the steering stiffness). I was able to source the same dimension conduits from Solimar and reuse the same compression fittings. Don't forget to pump the conduits with grease (compatible with the internal lining material). Regarding stiff steering, we found ours and another 435 sister ship had the same problem, it turned out to be the two white bearings on the steering wheel shaft in the pedestal. Apparently, these bearing swell over the decades and is a known problem with the old Whitlock systems. Bit of light sanding did the trick. With the steering chain off the sprocket, when you give the wheel a good turn it should spin endlessly. Good luck.
Yes, good point. We should have discussed the pedestal bearing in more detail. One thing I would be avoiding though is 'pumping the conduits with grease'. AFAIK they are not designed to be greased. Doing so will attract dust and salt, which will clog up.
While in the pedestal area, check the throttle and gear selector cables. If they get a bit of water in them, the steel cables that make up the sheath can rust internally and then break. Usually approaching a dock, and probably the gear selector stuck in forward, which is a bit of a surprise when you give a burst of what you think is reverse to slow down and instead promptly accelerate forward and into another boat. Seen it happen twice in the last few months... The break can be anywhere along the cable, but probably at the bottom of the first dip below the pedestal
Great episode. I enjoyed that. It’s. Bit late now, but if you have any future problems with your steering cable, may I suggest moving to hydraulic steering. Once it’s in, it’s in for life. The two tubes (cables) are about 6mm in diameter.
That is some steering setup, no wonder some opt for hydraulic. Mine is a very simple shaft in the column connected directly to the quadrant via a drag link. Simple and reliable. But my boat is not a centre cockpit. Nice shots of the UK, almost makes me want to be there. Almost.
Yes, that is a centre cockpit setup, so invariably it'll be a longer run. I choose my moments with the UK footage and avoided recording on the grey, rainy days 😅
Hendro has been a real asset, not only because of his knowledge but also because he loves a challenge and refuses to give up! I think he knows more about sail boats than most sail boat owners.
Oh how ghastly is that steering system with teleflex type cables. That would give me the horrors. Delrin (Acetal) may not be the best plastic choice. I think that I would have had a phosphor Bronze insert. Or maybe Teflon (PTFE). Problem with all of the Nylon like plastics is that they absorb moisture and swell up meaning squeeze in on a shaft, as I found out with my first boat when I made the bottom bearing Nylon with a neat (dry) fit. Make sure that you do the swelling percentage calculation, or you will wind up with tight steering for a different reason.
Thanks for the comment, but I'm afraid I disagree! As explained in the video, Delrin was chosen precisely for its minimum expansion properties in salt water, unlike the other plastics you mention. I discussed this on the YBW forum with other boat owners who've done similar, and a couple were still using the same bearing 10-15 years down the line.
Jamie just loves his tech, but a rust wire a old pipe and a bit of old grease. Old tech that lasted longer then most, put money on new tech lasts three or four years before need to up grade.
I remember doing this job 5 years ago on my 435DS, my conduits where rupturing from rust from the inside out (though this did not effect the steering stiffness). I was able to source the same dimension conduits from Solimar and reuse the same compression fittings. Don't forget to pump the conduits with grease (compatible with the internal lining material). Regarding stiff steering, we found ours and another 435 sister ship had the same problem, it turned out to be the two white bearings on the steering wheel shaft in the pedestal. Apparently, these bearing swell over the decades and is a known problem with the old Whitlock systems. Bit of light sanding did the trick. With the steering chain off the sprocket, when you give the wheel a good turn it should spin endlessly. Good luck.
Yes, good point. We should have discussed the pedestal bearing in more detail. One thing I would be avoiding though is 'pumping the conduits with grease'. AFAIK they are not designed to be greased. Doing so will attract dust and salt, which will clog up.
While in the pedestal area, check the throttle and gear selector cables. If they get a bit of water in them, the steel cables that make up the sheath can rust internally and then break. Usually approaching a dock, and probably the gear selector stuck in forward, which is a bit of a surprise when you give a burst of what you think is reverse to slow down and instead promptly accelerate forward and into another boat. Seen it happen twice in the last few months...
The break can be anywhere along the cable, but probably at the bottom of the first dip below the pedestal
We are all big kids at heart. Have a go at it and enjoy life.
😁
see all the fun Jamie missed on the boat lol; the England photos and history was fascinating to me.
We thought you guys might like it, Jerome, that's why we put it in there 👍
I know marriage is give and take. Liz, you took one for the team this time.
Jamie, your walk and commentary was beautiful.
Thanks for sharing.
Liz done good 😊
@@followtheboat Yes, she did. ❤️
Great episode. I enjoyed that.
It’s. Bit late now, but if you have any future problems with your steering cable, may I suggest moving to hydraulic steering. Once it’s in, it’s in for life. The two tubes (cables) are about 6mm in diameter.
Thanks! I'm hoping we don't have to do this again for a while, but never say never 😉
Hydraulic doesn't have as much feel...
I greatly enjoy this channel. Thank you.
Our pleasure!
That is some steering setup, no wonder some opt for hydraulic. Mine is a very simple shaft in the column connected directly to the quadrant via a drag link. Simple and reliable. But my boat is not a centre cockpit. Nice shots of the UK, almost makes me want to be there. Almost.
Yes, that is a centre cockpit setup, so invariably it'll be a longer run. I choose my moments with the UK footage and avoided recording on the grey, rainy days 😅
Liz I feel for you, I cannot imagine how uncomfortable you must be. Keep at it, you seem to have a good person on the job.
Hendro has been a real asset, not only because of his knowledge but also because he loves a challenge and refuses to give up! I think he knows more about sail boats than most sail boat owners.
What is the location where you are on the hard. By the way absolutely love your vids😀
Hi. This is Medana Bay in the north west of Lombok 👍
FFS! I just LOVE (sarcasm) when one seemingly simple project turns into multiple difficult projects! 🥵🤬🐻
That is the essence of boat ownership right there 😅
Well it seems the apple dosesn't fall far from the tree.😅
😅😅
Oh how ghastly is that steering system with teleflex type cables. That would give me the horrors.
Delrin (Acetal) may not be the best plastic choice. I think that I would have had a phosphor Bronze insert. Or maybe Teflon (PTFE). Problem with all of the Nylon like plastics is that they absorb moisture and swell up meaning squeeze in on a shaft, as I found out with my first boat when I made the bottom bearing Nylon with a neat (dry) fit. Make sure that you do the swelling percentage calculation, or you will wind up with tight steering for a different reason.
Thanks for the comment, but I'm afraid I disagree! As explained in the video, Delrin was chosen precisely for its minimum expansion properties in salt water, unlike the other plastics you mention. I discussed this on the YBW forum with other boat owners who've done similar, and a couple were still using the same bearing 10-15 years down the line.
Jamie just loves his tech, but a rust wire a old pipe and a bit of old grease. Old tech that lasted longer then most, put money on new tech lasts three or four years before need to up grade.
When it comes to cameras I'll find any excuse to upgrade 😅