Thank you for your amazing feedback! It means a lot to me that you found the video helpful. I put a lot of effort into creating content that is informative and engaging, so it's great to hear that it resonated with you.
Great tutorial. Getting the old, stiff sling fabric out was a challenge. After taking one side out, with a good deal of effort, I had an idea....Dawn to the rescue! I put a thin bead of the dish detergent on each side of the fabric, ~ wiggled the fabric back and forth as you did. Then my husband slid it out with the vice grips pretty easily and quickly! As we needed to give the chair a final clean, win win!
we make and install hundreds of slings every year, a few more tips... mount the rails to the chair frame, one side at a time when sliding the sling down the rail. its much easier to do when the rail is supported. trim the spline and cap the rails before installing the spreader bars, it's easier to do when not under tension. most chair styles only require one rail to be taken off for installing the sling. to make it easier to slide heavy fabric into the rail you can slightly nib the corners of the rail channel. it's also easier to cut and slide the old fabric out of the rail with the rails still mounted to the chair frame. spraying water down the rails will make it easier to slide the old fabric out. great video guys!!
After FINALLY replacing the fabric on my glider, I feel compelled to point out that the dude here is a PROFESSIONAL so he makes it look like a walk in the park. In truth, there will be much cursing and gnashing of the teeth! But don't give up! Just watch the video again - especially the part about bending the tension bars if they won't fit. They seem to get straighter over time as weight is applied so bending them a little will help them fit back into the rails. Once it's done, you can brag about how you "upcycled" your old patio furniture and made it all match! Way to go!
I don't know about MUCH cursing. I've never used a sewing machine before, and I only cursed a little bit. (Not nearly as much as when I sat down on the chair and the old material ripped on me.) ;) If a complete novice like me can do it, I'm sure pretty much anyone can. MANY thanks for the helpful video (and great sling material, too)!
Wow! What a phenomenal instructional video! I was going try to find someone to redo our chairs, but after watching this detailed video, I think we can actually do the job ourselves. Your formulas, explanations, and instructions...in addition to fantastic detailed video; make it easy for the most inexperienced DIYer feel confident to take on this project. Thank you so very much! I will be figuring out my measurements and be placing an order next month.
I want to thank you for the fabric calculator it is great help. You don't waste fabric ! I used it to make dog beds and had barely any scrapes worth keeping. Great videos always too! THANK YOU !
I thought this was a great video. I don't get how anyone could give it a thumbs down. I took my chairs apart and ordered the fabric for about $100 and very little will go in the landfill. Seems like a good deal to me. Thanks for the lengthy and very informatiive video.
It’s because the average Joe doesn’t have a sewing machine, for example, so that automatically cancels me outta this “very easy DIY”. Now I have to hire someone to sew these.. I was very disappointed.. maybe there’s a glue method for this step .. but I quit watching so I’ll never know. Stop bringing Pros in these videos making us believe it’s sooo simple.
Having grown sons, I see how excited yours was, to help you. 😂 I'm wondering how he feels about it 5 years later. I'm betting that he's grateful for the time spent with you and learning how to restore something in order to save money, instead of buying something new. ❤
Simply put, this is one of the BEST instructional videos I've come across on RUclips. I was planning on ordering slings for my 22 year old 6-piece Tropitone patio chairs. However, the cost...and mostly the delay in receiving them in time has me changing my mind on that. I am very experienced at sewing machine work and this video makes it abundantly clear that this is entirely doable at home. Now if I could find a heavy duty sewing machine so I can employ heavier duty, more durable fabric on the project. The fabric weight chart was super helpful. Great job guys!!
Ha, ha, four years ago I bought the Sailrite fabric to repair a chair. This weekend I finally completed the project with your help! Great, great video. Best tip is stapling the fabric before sewing. Genius! Thanks.
This is a great video to watch if you have never done this because they have covered all the parts, especially the corded part that was very hard for me to do. I like that it is a family thing. It makes for more warm family memories when they grow up. I remember doing things like this with my family when we all joined in to help make our old cabin cruiser new again. I will never forget those happy times, it made us a closer tight net family. Making family memories for tomorrow. What a great video.
This is one of the best instructional videos i have ever seen, using the best descriptions for the tiny movements and chair parts, so I know exactly what i need to do. I hope I can salvage my 4 old chairs that cats have been sitting on and ruining the fabric.
This was an extremely well done video! I was a bit intimidated by the project before me but now I am completely confident. You did an excellent job carefully explaining every important detail and showing it on the video. Thank you so much!
This video was great. I ordered the fabric from Sailrite, and I did the sewing. My boyfriend helped me sand and spray paint the chairs. It was a little hard getting on the fabric tight enough, and we did end up buying 2 new stretching clamps. The chairs came out great, they look brand new. Thank you Sailrite, I love your videos.
The fabric is really easy to put on, a certain way. I accidently made a couple fabrics too long, and instead of removing the stitching, we just folded the hem and made a pocket at one end. So we slid the pocket end first and as we pushed the sleeves in, the poles helped push the sleeves through. It was pretty easy and fast. We did the last three like this because those were the ones I screwed up, but ended to being the easiest ones to put together.
Some Sunbrella, v69, and my mother's old Kenmore sewing machine, and I was able to very easily replace the backs of 6 chairs. Replacing was very easy as I think the chairs were better constructed than most; didn't have to fight the spreaders as much as you did. This is my second project with materials from Sailrite -- previously replaced the seat and back on a wooden glider with Sunbrella and that has survived years so far in the snow and sun near Yosemite. I keep thinking I'll buy a Sailrite machine, but that old Kenmore just keeps working. Definitely need the hot knife for cutting Sunbrella.
I was doing this myself and had a problem pulling my material through the channel even after widening it because it has long floats (threads that do not intersect) and they kept getting caught on the opening to the channel. I found it really helped to use a zipper foot and stitch along the spline cord. I also use a bit of WD 40 to lubricate the channel.
Love the tips of spraying the sling holders, folding fabric on ends pulling sling & fabric. Little confused on using that spreader bar. I just inserted mine back in as I put back together. But I have 5 to go & still have 2 lounge chairs which Im not looking forward to complete!
Thank you for an excellent guide. I referred to the video again and again during my project! My hands are somewhat sore but worth the effort . Its like I have completely new patio furniture for a fraction of the cost! I have a suggestions for your readers you may want to add to the instructions (or not!)
1. I used 3" long metal hemming clips - the 3 inch long metal ones with quarter inch marks. Helped alot when sewing the hems! and are an easy way to semi crease the fabric where desired.. . I will use again and again for various home projects and easier to use for my arthritic hands vs pins! 2. Please recommend readers get a heavy duty longer stretcher. I have both. I was first using the medium and just could not get enough strength to stretch as needed. The heavier duty one with the longer (and more rubber-y pads) stretcher was so much simpler (albeit more expensive). Maybe thats what you sell on line. . I already had 3 of the medium duty ones at home from other projects. 3. For Sunbrella fabrics with more stretch: to avoid sagging, cut the fabric a little smaller by 1/8-1/4".... when I used your measurements there was sagging. When I cut smaller more taut, no sagging.... of course that is probably why the stretching was more taxing but it did the trick! Hopefully I am not stressing the fabric out beyond its limitation!!! Time will tell. Would love to attach photos but can't figure out how to do this....
Wow, those are great suggestions. I can't modify the RUclips video, but I do hope that people read your comments here. You can post your excellent comments and photos on our website here: www.sailrite.com/How-to-Replace-Fabric-on-a-Patio-Sling-Chair (just scroll to the bottom of the page at that link and add your comments and photos to the discussion).
Wish I’d watched this before I threw out a good quality, 26 yr old, heavy duty, patio chair. But thanks to this video I can refinish the other 5. Very informative. Wish me luck!! Thanks!!!
I wasn’t sure if repair was possible for these chairs. Mine lasted 18 years and I still love the chairs. Thank you for this video and detailed instructions.
Dry lubricant works like a champ to make it easier to slide the sling out of the channels. Get it in a spray can and spray it in each end of the channel. No need for vice grips after spraying it in the channels.
Thank you, for the video. i watched it ordered the material and watched it again. material came and we did the bottom part of the chaise lounge. Thank you!!
I fixed my patio chairs,. The video was a big help, I would not recommend to use a striped material for your first set of chairs, your first chairs are hard, and I didn't want to make sure the strips were straight, my patio set was 15 years old, it looks like new, and should be ready for another 15 years.
What a Great video. My chairs are almost 24 years ols and the fabric is starting to go now I see what I can do to replce it and make them look like New again.
I'm so glad you found the video helpful! It's amazing how a simple change like replacing the fabric can make your chairs look brand new again. Good luck with your project!
fabulous!!! I wonder how many people take their old (Expensive) torn fabric patio furniture and throw it out because they don't realize there is hope for this problem.... we need to measure and order some covers.. Thanks for the Video!
i just salvaged two chairs like this from my neighbor who threw them away for that exact reason. wish the fabric came in better sizes though i only need a small amount.
Also you can make a point at the end of the spline like a pencil to push it through the sling easy. I have been doing this over 10 years can do a chair in under 15 minutes
I started out looking for a place to recover our four chairs then saw this. Less than $100 for four chairs to look new again. My old spline is solid plastic and pretty rigid after years so if I did not use some WD40 on it I would not have gotten it out without cutting up the old fabric a lot which we wanted as a size double check. The new fabric matches our frame color very closely .
Great instructions! We just did this for 6 chairs and they came out very nice with one exception. The seat area is a bit saggy on a couple of chairs. Does this mean the fabric is a bit too wide? We can't stretch it any more due to the frame but i could make the fabric a bit narrower.
Yes, the panels may be slightly too wide on those couple of chairs you mentioned. When I have an issue like that (fabric not as tight as I like) it is usually because the tension bars are not pushing against the sides as tightly as they once did. If possible, it is not always possible, try inserting a washer or two between the tension bar ends. This will provide instant tension to the fabric. Or if possible try bending the tension bars to extend the length slightly, that may not be possible depending on the thickness and design of the tension bars.
I struggled like you pulling the fabric threw the channel for the first chair. I also had to use a pair of players. I took a bar of hand soap and rubbed it on the part of the fabric that goes threw the channel. The soap lubricated the material. All the rest of the 5 chairs went very easy and did not need anything except my hands.
If one can't afford this fabric could upholstery outdoor fabric be used? I thought about denim and using naphtha to make it water proof. If it's not in the sun due to a porch cover, would this work? I also thought about patio outdoor fabric and making a weave pattern but the channel itself would be one layer like a border to slide easily through the channels. I'm a seamstress and a quilt maker so I have lots of fabric. Would any of these ideas work? What thread would you recommend with a home sewing machine?
Wonderful video. Noticed that I actually purchased (4 or 5 yrs ago) the same fabric that you are using in the demo. I’m having a hard time getting the fabric stretched lengthwise. It wants to bunch up (so to speak) at the curve. Any tips or suggestions?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video--it's really helpful. The top of our chair measures 16-3/4", and the bottom is 17.5". I wonder how we should deal with this? It seems too big a difference to use the smaller of the two measurements.
You are correct. Since the top and bottom measurement are that much different you will need to match the panels shape accounting for that difference at the top and bottom.
Just got new slings for 2 lounge chairs. Bottom seat parts both perfect and tight, top part on both is tight enough to use, but very subtle waving and loosness in it. Measured correct and sling tops came correct size. Any way to adjust chair frames even more to tighten it more? I already added a couple thicker washers in one spot where back bars connect to back of seat and that helped maybe 30% but still not great. Is this normal to happen when doing replacements?
Adding washers is always the first thing to try. If that does not work simply remove the fabric which is loose and rip the stitches and make the hem on one side a little larger, which in turn makes the chair tighter from frame to frame since the hem is folded over slightly more. It is that easy!
I would not recommend that thick fabric if you have a chair that has the two sling rails unseparatable. I had to use two vice grips with lighter fabric. This was a very helpful video. Thank you.
I appreciate your feedback! It's always good to consider the specific requirements of your chair before choosing the fabric. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
We do not sell end caps for sling chairs, but I have found this website which may help you find the correct end cap for your chairs: www.patioproducts.com/slinginserts.asp
If you have trouble pulling out the spline, it might be because the fabric is too tight around the curves in the frame. I cut the fabric very close to the frame (not down the middle), and then I cut flex points into the fabric about every two inches, i.e a cut perpendicular to the direction of the spline all the way to the frame. That way, the fabric flexes easily with the spline as you remove it.
Quick question... When you were sewing the sleeves and you marked the 1/2" then 2" on each side and said between the two 2" lines was the final measurement of 20" (which was the measurement of the chair... rail -> rail before disassembling)... Where did the channel measurement go? I completely sewed the fabric for one chair, but I haven't assembled yet and I'm trying to imagine how the measurement of my final width being 20" won't be too short when that was the measurement that didn't include the channel at all. My fabric was too beat up to measure once I cut it off. I'm hoping when I assemble it just magically works but something seems funny to me here. Please please please respond.
Our chair from rail to rail was 19 3/8" after the sleeve size is added (0.31" x 2 = 0.62") It would then equal 20 inches. So.... I think you are forgetting to add the .31" for the sleeve size. Use this fabric calculator to help: www.fabric-calculator.com/SlingChair/index.html
@@SailriteDIY I was thinking the same thing as @laurengrover7563. I'm glad you pointed out your final measurement was not 20" and that 20" includes the sleeve size for both ends.
great video. But don't the manufacturers of these chairs make pre made replacement fabric already cut and stitched so I don't have to go through all this? Asking bc I don't know.
I have not found any manufacture of the chairs selling replacement fabric panels. However, I know of some canvas and upholstery shops that say they can make them for you.
Why not use the original fabric as a pattern ? Also, wouldn't the double sided seam tape you all sell be better for holding seam down while sewing? I have 80 pool side chairs to change out (60 lounge and 20 chairs similar to that chair). I will be ordering fabric from you guys. Great video
Thanks for your kind comments and ordering from Sailrite! If you remove it carefully and it is not damaged by age, you can use it as a pattern. Yes, the seamstick would be helpful, just don't get it in the sleeve for the awning/sling cording. www.sailrite.com/Seamstick-1-4-Basting-Tape-for-Canvas-50-Yds
Our chairs have 3 side to side bars that are welded to the sides. We don't have stretch bars to remove. Is it still possible for us to get the right stretch? We have 6 chairs and will try one to begin if it is possible.
Ya, I have seen sling chairs where frames are welded together rather than using removable stretcher bars or bars that are screwed together. In those situations it is very difficult to push new sling fabric panels into the grooves of the chair frames. I do not have much advice for a process except to possibly make smaller panels for easier installation. The manufacture was not thinking about replacing the fabric, but instead wants you to buy new chairs when the fabric wears out. I try to avoid buying sling chairs that are welded together to avoid that issue. I did see a youtube video (can't find it now) of someone installing slings to this kind of lounger, but they used 2 large clamps to bring the side rails closer together, slightly bending the already curved stretcher bars. Then after getting the fabric in place I would lay the chair frame on a flat surface and apply pressure to the welded tension bar (probably by standing on them or using some of my body weight) bending the bars back to original shape to tension the fabric.
This is a fantastic instructional video. One question though - could you clarify where the second row of stitching goes on the lengthwise edges? It seems like you are saying it goes about a quarter of an inch to the right of the first line of stitching - is that correct? Or could you fortify the first row of stitch by just going over top of it? Thanks in advance for considering this.
Glad you liked the video! I usually place the second row about a 1/4" from the first. Since the hem is rather large you can place that stitch on either the left or right side of the first stitch. Do not stitch right over the first stitch, that will weaken the fabric since the needle is penetrating it so many times in the same spot, it sort of perforates the fabric.
If installing the sling with the spline, it's good to be sure that about 3 inches of spline extend beyond the sling at the end opposite where you start. Otherwise when you finish the last inch of fabric will have no spline. Also, it helps to use a file and be sure that there are no sharp edges where you start to feed the sling.
I spray some WD-40 and turn the spine the opposite way in the grove or channel before pulling the spine out. This helps to cleans the grime and makes the old spine come out easier. Wipe away excess WD-40 once spine is out.
Well.... I don't think it will work well without a sewing machine. We have not tested, but it may or may not work, to use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to glue Phifertex Plus sleeves in place. If you try using it and it works or not please comment back. I would think that sewing is better than gluing a sleeve, but who knows until it is tested.
I noticed that when you talk about layout of fabric, you don’t talk about how much extra for seams...don’t I need to add that before I can figure out how to lay it out? My length is 49 1/8...adding in seam allowance is probably going to put me over for the 54” wide...just curious.
When measuring the width would one need to add the 2” slot on each side along with the 5/16 hem? If one doesn’t add this dimension I would think the measurements would be too narrow and possibly ruin the entire project causing one to need to start over and order more fabric.
At 11:03 min we show calculations for the width (cut size) as follows: Width + (Slot x 2) + 4 = Cut width of fabric. Use the Sailrite Fabric Calculator for Sling Chairs and get it right the first time: www.fabric-calculator.com/SlingChair/index.html
I think rubbing some bar soap, or dish washing soap, or rubbing white candle wax or even Vaseline on the edge of the fabric that's to be slid through the rails will help it slide easier. You can put some liquid soap or Vaseline on a Q-tip and run that through the rails to lube the insides. I'm not sure why you measured the old fabric while it was still on the chair, and then measure it again while it was removed and flat on the floor. I would measure it after it's been removed. That would be much easier and it's more accurate than trying to measure around curves.
Good suggestions! Why measure the old fabric on the chair prior to removal? Many customers do not want to disassemble the chair prior to ordering the fabric. Measuring in advance to ordering new fabric means they can use the chair up until the date they are ready to sew and assemble the new panels.
Sailrite That may be so, but, it's a real pain measuring curves esp when you have a floppy measuring tape. You'll get more accurate measuring if you do it while the material is flat. Also, at that point you can see all the hems so you can measure those too and add those measurements to the main ones to get the final size of the fabric.
Another question I just thought of, why do you have to turn under the side 1/2"? Can you just fold it over like you did the top? It won't ravel. It sure would make it easier to begin pulling it through the rail.
The edge with the sling cording is the edge that will come under a great deal of stress when the occupant sits in the chair. So, creating this half inch fold is kind of important to help reinforce the fabric. The 1/2" fold should not get in the way of the fabric that has to be pulled through the metal channeling, since it is only folded back a half inch. I hope this information helps.
Is the bar-clamp/spreader used in the video a "heavy duty" 24" spreader (600 lb max), or is it a regular 24" inch (300 lb max) spreader? I plan to buy one, since all my chair slings are wearing out at the same time and I can do everything except reattach the spreader bars.
In this video we used the Irwin Quick-grip one handed bar clamp "heavy duty" 36" (Irwin part #1964715) which is rated for up to 600 lbs. We do not need the 36" length a 24" length is sufficient. Also a 300 lbs. rating would also work.
I just did my 3 chairs which had an extra curve at the bottom of the chair. The Irwin heavy duty bar spreader(600 lbs max) wasn't strong enough. I ended up trying a bottle jack(HFT) with 4x4 wood block to stretch the sling frame. It was a very controlled high pressure stretch. My chairs fought me every step of the way. The bottle jack made stretching easy. Pledge spray helped loosen the sling material for removal. Vaseline helped during sling installation. I am not sure if Vaseline is compatible with the chemical properties of the sling material but it sure helped during installation.
@@pbrenneraz Harbor Freight Tools Item69472 4 Ton Heavy Duty Hydraulic Bottle Jack. I had to add oil to the jack to get it to work after purchase before first use. Jack is about 7.5 inches tall and very cheap with coupon.
A home sewing machine usually cannot handle any thread larger than a V-69 Polyester, so that is what I would recommend. However, if your machine could handle a V-92 Polyester that is what I would want to use.
@@SailriteDIY How can one find out if it can handle V-92 thread. I have a Bernina 445 if that helps any. Also if it can't handle V-92 to you suggest a more reinforces straight stitch or still use a normal straight stitch?
@@athenaglasby7831 A Bernina 445 is considered to be a home sewing machine. I don't think it will be able to tension a V-92 thread. So instead get V-69 Polyester thread. Just use a normal straight stitch.
@@athenaglasby7831 It, Bernina 445, will not be able to handle the tension of V-92 thread, sorry. I would expect it to handle V-69 Polyester easily. Use a normal straight stitch.
You can use the following threads for sling chairs: V-69 Polyester (for a home sewing machine) or V-92 Polyester (for a heavy duty sewing machine) or Profilen PTFE Lifetiime Thread. We used the Profilen item #107128 in this video.
maybe i missed something, but is there any reason why you don't slide out the old fabric and then measure it, rather than measuring with it slid in the frame already?
We usually consider two types of thread for outdoor projects: Polyester thread or PTFE thread. Sailrite carries two brands of PTFE thread: Sailrite Lifetime Thread (formally called Profilen PTFE) and Tenara PTFE. The PTFE threads will last the life time of the fabric no matter the climate they are used in and they are chemical resistant and fade proof. However, PTFE threads are more costly and slightly more difficult to sew with. Sailrite Lifetime Thread PTFE sews easier than Tenara brand PTFE threads on an oscillating hook sewing machine (like what the Sailrite Ultrafeed uses). Both sew wonderfully in a rotary hook sewing machine. Most customers pick Polyester thread because it is less expensive and easy to sew with. A Polyester thread is UV resistant, but its life is totally dependent on the amount of UV (and other outdoor elements) it is exposed to. If used in the Midwest a Polyester thread may last 5 to 10 years if used in the tropics or desert it may last only a few years. If you purchase Polyester thread the best fade resistant colors are Black and White, they are solution dyed (colors run all the way through the thread) the other colors of Polyester threads are only coated on the surface and will fade faster.
Can the fabric be pre ordered with the measurements already cut AND the edges already sewn for easy installation for those who don't have a sewing machine?
@@SailriteDIY Maybe there's an opportunity there for the company to make some more money! I'll take a percentage for the idea. Lol. Anyway, thanks for replying.
Okay, so hands down the best instructional and sales video I've ever seen.
Thank you for your amazing feedback! It means a lot to me that you found the video helpful. I put a lot of effort into creating content that is informative and engaging, so it's great to hear that it resonated with you.
@@SailriteDIY I really liked how you included part numbers for what you were using
Great tutorial. Getting the old, stiff sling fabric out was a challenge. After taking one side out, with a good deal of effort, I had an idea....Dawn to the rescue! I put a thin bead of the dish detergent on each side of the fabric, ~ wiggled the fabric back and forth as you did. Then my husband slid it out with the vice grips pretty easily and quickly! As we needed to give the chair a final clean, win win!
we make and install hundreds of slings every year, a few more tips... mount the rails to the chair frame, one side at a time when sliding the sling down the rail. its much easier to do when the rail is supported. trim the spline and cap the rails before installing the spreader bars, it's easier to do when not under tension. most chair styles only require one rail to be taken off for installing the sling. to make it easier to slide heavy fabric into the rail you can slightly nib the corners of the rail channel. it's also easier to cut and slide the old fabric out of the rail with the rails still mounted to the chair frame. spraying water down the rails will make it easier to slide the old fabric out. great video guys!!
Excellent suggestions! Thanks!!!
I average 60 hours a week on RUclips. This is a HIGH QUALITY STANDARD video. Thank you.
Thanks for your positive comment!!!
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After FINALLY replacing the fabric on my glider, I feel compelled to point out that the dude here is a PROFESSIONAL so he makes it look like a walk in the park. In truth, there will be much cursing and gnashing of the teeth!
But don't give up! Just watch the video again - especially the part about bending the tension bars if they won't fit. They seem to get straighter over time as weight is applied so bending them a little will help them fit back into the rails.
Once it's done, you can brag about how you "upcycled" your old patio furniture and made it all match! Way to go!
I don't know about MUCH cursing. I've never used a sewing machine before, and I only cursed a little bit. (Not nearly as much as when I sat down on the chair and the old material ripped on me.) ;) If a complete novice like me can do it, I'm sure pretty much anyone can.
MANY thanks for the helpful video (and great sling material, too)!
Wow! What a phenomenal instructional video! I was going try to find someone to redo our chairs, but after watching this detailed video, I think we can actually do the job ourselves. Your formulas, explanations, and instructions...in addition to fantastic detailed video; make it easy for the most inexperienced DIYer feel confident to take on this project. Thank you so very much! I will be figuring out my measurements and be placing an order next month.
Thanks for the very kind comments! We appreciate your loyal patronage to Sailrite.
I want to thank you for the fabric calculator it is great help. You don't waste fabric ! I used it to make dog beds and had barely any scrapes worth keeping. Great videos always too! THANK YOU !
I thought this was a great video. I don't get how anyone could give it a thumbs down. I took my chairs apart and ordered the fabric for about $100 and very little will go in the landfill. Seems like a good deal to me. Thanks for the lengthy and very informatiive video.
Thanks for your positive comments and good job replacing your sling fabric.
It’s because the average Joe doesn’t have a sewing machine, for example, so that automatically cancels me outta this “very easy DIY”. Now I have to hire someone to sew these.. I was very disappointed.. maybe there’s a glue method for this step .. but I quit watching so I’ll never know. Stop bringing Pros in these videos making us believe it’s sooo simple.
Having grown sons, I see how excited yours was, to help you. 😂 I'm wondering how he feels about it 5 years later. I'm betting that he's grateful for the time spent with you and learning how to restore something in order to save money, instead of buying something new. ❤
Awesome video. The trick about bending the horizontal support bar was epic. That solved my biggest challenge. Thanks so much.
Hi, I did tayloring for over 20 years and found this video very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!!!!
Simply put, this is one of the BEST instructional videos I've come across on RUclips. I was planning on ordering slings for my 22 year old 6-piece Tropitone patio chairs. However, the cost...and mostly the delay in receiving them in time has me changing my mind on that. I am very experienced at sewing machine work and this video makes it abundantly clear that this is entirely doable at home. Now if I could find a heavy duty sewing machine so I can employ heavier duty, more durable fabric on the project. The fabric weight chart was super helpful. Great job guys!!
Glad you like it! You can do it.
Ha, ha, four years ago I bought the Sailrite fabric to repair a chair. This weekend I finally completed the project with your help! Great, great video. Best tip is stapling the fabric before sewing. Genius! Thanks.
So glad that you liked it.
Great video. Only one I found that is very detailed and clearly addresses removal and installation in a professional manner. Well done thank you.
This is a great video to watch if you have never done this because they have covered all the parts, especially the corded part that was very hard for me to do. I like that it is a family thing. It makes for more warm family memories when they grow up. I remember doing things like this with my family when we all joined in to help make our old cabin cruiser new again. I will never forget those happy times, it made us a closer tight net family. Making family memories for tomorrow. What a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is one of the best instructional videos i have ever seen, using the best descriptions for the tiny movements and chair parts, so I know exactly what i need to do. I hope I can salvage my 4 old chairs that cats have been sitting on and ruining the fabric.
Glad you liked it! Let us know if you have any questions.
Excellent video. Always loved Sailrite products. Your portable industrial sewing machine is amazing.
This was an extremely well done video! I was a bit intimidated by the project before me but now I am completely confident. You did an excellent job carefully explaining every important detail and showing it on the video. Thank you so much!
Glad you like it!
Great instructional! I feel confident to sew and install my slings now.
This video was great. I ordered the fabric from Sailrite, and I did the sewing. My boyfriend helped me sand and spray paint the chairs. It was a little hard getting on the fabric tight enough, and we did end up buying 2 new stretching clamps. The chairs came out great, they look brand new. Thank you Sailrite, I love your videos.
We are so glad your sling chair project went well! Good job!!!
The fabric is really easy to put on, a certain way. I accidently made a couple fabrics too long, and instead of removing the stitching, we just folded the hem and made a pocket at one end. So we slid the pocket end first and as we pushed the sleeves in, the poles helped push the sleeves through. It was pretty easy and fast. We did the last three like this because those were the ones I screwed up, but ended to being the easiest ones to put together.
Some Sunbrella, v69, and my mother's old Kenmore sewing machine, and I was able to very easily replace the backs of 6 chairs. Replacing was very easy as I think the chairs were better constructed than most; didn't have to fight the spreaders as much as you did. This is my second project with materials from Sailrite -- previously replaced the seat and back on a wooden glider with Sunbrella and that has survived years so far in the snow and sun near Yosemite. I keep thinking I'll buy a Sailrite machine, but that old Kenmore just keeps working. Definitely need the hot knife for cutting Sunbrella.
I was doing this myself and had a problem pulling my material through the channel even after widening it because it has long floats (threads that do not intersect) and they kept getting caught on the opening to the channel. I found it really helped to use a zipper foot and stitch along the spline cord. I also use a bit of WD 40 to lubricate the channel.
Can you die the covers to a different color
V out the ends of the channel with a hand fils and use a silicon spray for a easier install.
files
Love the tips of spraying the sling holders, folding fabric on ends pulling sling & fabric. Little confused on using that spreader bar. I just inserted mine back in as I put back together. But I have 5 to go & still have 2 lounge chairs which Im not looking forward to complete!
I have learned a lot from you now I can cover my chairs for this summer thank you
Thank you for an excellent guide. I referred to the video again and again during my project! My hands are somewhat sore but worth the effort . Its like I have completely new patio furniture for a fraction of the cost!
I have a suggestions for your readers you may want to add to the instructions (or not!)
1. I used 3" long metal hemming clips - the 3 inch long metal ones with quarter inch marks. Helped alot when sewing the hems! and are an easy way to semi crease the fabric where desired.. . I will use again and again for various home projects and easier to use for my arthritic hands vs pins!
2. Please recommend readers get a heavy duty longer stretcher. I have both. I was first using the medium and just could not get enough strength to stretch as needed. The heavier duty one with the longer (and more rubber-y pads) stretcher was so much simpler (albeit more expensive). Maybe thats what you sell on line. . I already had 3 of the medium duty ones at home from other projects.
3. For Sunbrella fabrics with more stretch: to avoid sagging, cut the fabric a little smaller by 1/8-1/4".... when I used your measurements there was sagging. When I cut smaller more taut, no sagging.... of course that is probably why the stretching was more taxing but it did the trick! Hopefully I am not stressing the fabric out beyond its limitation!!! Time will tell.
Would love to attach photos but can't figure out how to do this....
Wow, those are great suggestions. I can't modify the RUclips video, but I do hope that people read your comments here. You can post your excellent comments and photos on our website here: www.sailrite.com/How-to-Replace-Fabric-on-a-Patio-Sling-Chair (just scroll to the bottom of the page at that link and add your comments and photos to the discussion).
Wish I’d watched this before I threw out a good quality, 26 yr old, heavy duty, patio chair. But thanks to this video I can refinish the other 5. Very informative. Wish me luck!! Thanks!!!
thanks for the video was very helpful saved me having to replace two chairs
Wish I had seen this BEFORE making and installing my mom's new replacements. That bar spreader tip would have saved me a lot of headaches.
I have 6 chairs I need to do and omg it looks like so much work
I wasn’t sure if repair was possible for these chairs. Mine lasted 18 years and I still love the chairs. Thank you for this video and detailed instructions.
Dry lubricant works like a champ to make it easier to slide the sling out of the channels. Get it in a spray can and spray it in each end of the channel. No need for vice grips after spraying it in the channels.
Thank you, for the video. i watched it ordered the material and watched it again. material came and we did the bottom part of the chaise lounge. Thank you!!
Excellent!
This is a great video. I just learn about cheap fabric chairs.
Awesome job explaining and demoing. Thank you all!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I fixed my patio chairs,. The video was a big help, I would not recommend to use a striped material for your first set of chairs, your first chairs are hard, and I didn't want to make sure the strips were straight, my patio set was 15 years old, it looks like new, and should be ready for another 15 years.
Really nice video! Thank you 🙏
What a Great video. My chairs are almost 24 years ols and the fabric is starting to go now I see what I can do to replce it and make them look like New again.
I'm so glad you found the video helpful! It's amazing how a simple change like replacing the fabric can make your chairs look brand new again. Good luck with your project!
EXCELLENT!! I have 4 patio chairs to do and this is the perfect video, thanks!! Placing order for fabric and spline cording today. Gracias!
Awesome! Thanks for your order!!!
Thanks to the kids who had their own experience for the girls to go home for dinner with
Great great video, I just love your store and these videos are such jewels! Thank you so much you have me as a customer for life!
fabulous!!! I wonder how many people take their old (Expensive) torn fabric patio furniture and throw it out because they don't realize there is hope for this problem.... we need to measure and order some covers.. Thanks for the Video!
You are welcome! Glad you liked it.
i just salvaged two chairs like this from my neighbor who threw them away for that exact reason. wish the fabric came in better sizes though i only need a small amount.
Also you can make a point at the end of the spline like a pencil to push it through the sling easy. I have been doing this over 10 years can do a chair in under 15 minutes
Very, good idea. Thanks!!!
I started out looking for a place to recover our four chairs then saw this. Less than $100 for four chairs to look new again.
My old spline is solid plastic and pretty rigid after years so if I did not use some WD40 on it I would not have gotten it out without cutting up the old fabric a lot which we wanted as a size double check.
The new fabric matches our frame color very closely .
Where did you get new fabric?
@@jonathangoodall3880 The links below the video?
Gratidão 🙏🏽 aprendo muito com seus vídeos🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Do I need a special foot for my machine, I have. Brother’s machine. Thanks love the video. Can’t wait to redo my chairs. Brenda
Great instruction video!
Great video. V helpful. Thank you
Great video, TY. What size needle did you use for this project?
Great video and good job!
This is a fantastic video!
Great video! So helpful. :D Thanks so much
Great instructions! We just did this for 6 chairs and they came out very nice with one exception. The seat area is a bit saggy on a couple of chairs. Does this mean the fabric is a bit too wide? We can't stretch it any more due to the frame but i could make the fabric a bit narrower.
Yes, the panels may be slightly too wide on those couple of chairs you mentioned. When I have an issue like that (fabric not as tight as I like) it is usually because the tension bars are not pushing against the sides as tightly as they once did. If possible, it is not always possible, try inserting a washer or two between the tension bar ends. This will provide instant tension to the fabric. Or if possible try bending the tension bars to extend the length slightly, that may not be possible depending on the thickness and design of the tension bars.
I struggled like you pulling the fabric threw the channel for the first chair. I also had to use a pair of players.
I took a bar of hand soap and rubbed it on the part of the fabric that goes threw the channel. The soap lubricated the material. All the rest of the 5 chairs went very easy and did not need anything except my hands.
So glad that you got the job done. Good job!!!
If one can't afford this fabric could upholstery outdoor fabric be used? I thought about denim and using naphtha to make it water proof. If it's not in the sun due to a porch cover, would this work?
I also thought about patio outdoor fabric and making a weave pattern but the channel itself would be one layer like a border to slide easily through the channels.
I'm a seamstress and a quilt maker so I have lots of fabric. Would any of these ideas work? What thread would you recommend with a home sewing machine?
Thank you for this vidoe. I just may try it. I have four chairs to do!!!
You can do it!
Great video! How much to have someone do this work for you…For 6 chairs?
Wonderful video. Noticed that I actually purchased (4 or 5 yrs ago) the same fabric that you are using in the demo. I’m having a hard time getting the fabric stretched lengthwise. It wants to bunch up (so to speak) at the curve. Any tips or suggestions?
Very clear video,thanks
Thank you for taking the time to make this video--it's really helpful. The top of our chair measures 16-3/4", and the bottom is 17.5". I wonder how we should deal with this? It seems too big a difference to use the smaller of the two measurements.
You are correct. Since the top and bottom measurement are that much different you will need to match the panels shape accounting for that difference at the top and bottom.
Just got new slings for 2 lounge chairs. Bottom seat parts both perfect and tight, top part on both is tight enough to use, but very subtle waving and loosness in it. Measured correct and sling tops came correct size. Any way to adjust chair frames even more to tighten it more? I already added a couple thicker washers in one spot where back bars connect to back of seat and that helped maybe 30% but still not great. Is this normal to happen when doing replacements?
Adding washers is always the first thing to try. If that does not work simply remove the fabric which is loose and rip the stitches and make the hem on one side a little larger, which in turn makes the chair tighter from frame to frame since the hem is folded over slightly more. It is that easy!
Excellent presentation; Thank you very much.
Do you mind telling me what is a good price for this labor? Excellent video. I followed your instructions and chairs turned out great!
Manufacturing labor in the US Midwest, to contract out, was running at $50/hour pre-pandemic; I’d imagine its closer to $60 now.
I would not recommend that thick fabric if you have a chair that has the two sling rails unseparatable. I had to use two vice grips with lighter fabric. This was a very helpful video. Thank you.
I appreciate your feedback! It's always good to consider the specific requirements of your chair before choosing the fabric. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
You mentioned at the beginning of the video that you had a source for replacement end-caps would you please post the link.
We do not sell end caps for sling chairs, but I have found this website which may help you find the correct end cap for your chairs: www.patioproducts.com/slinginserts.asp
If you have trouble pulling out the spline, it might be because the fabric is too tight around the curves in the frame. I cut the fabric very close to the frame (not down the middle), and then I cut flex points into the fabric about every two inches, i.e a cut perpendicular to the direction of the spline all the way to the frame. That way, the fabric flexes easily with the spline as you remove it.
Quick question... When you were sewing the sleeves and you marked the 1/2" then 2" on each side and said between the two 2" lines was the final measurement of 20" (which was the measurement of the chair... rail -> rail before disassembling)... Where did the channel measurement go? I completely sewed the fabric for one chair, but I haven't assembled yet and I'm trying to imagine how the measurement of my final width being 20" won't be too short when that was the measurement that didn't include the channel at all. My fabric was too beat up to measure once I cut it off. I'm hoping when I assemble it just magically works but something seems funny to me here. Please please please respond.
Our chair from rail to rail was 19 3/8" after the sleeve size is added (0.31" x 2 = 0.62") It would then equal 20 inches. So.... I think you are forgetting to add the .31" for the sleeve size. Use this fabric calculator to help: www.fabric-calculator.com/SlingChair/index.html
@@SailriteDIY I was thinking the same thing as @laurengrover7563. I'm glad you pointed out your final measurement was not 20" and that 20" includes the sleeve size for both ends.
great video. But don't the manufacturers of these chairs make pre made replacement fabric already cut and stitched so I don't have to go through all this? Asking bc I don't know.
I have not found any manufacture of the chairs selling replacement fabric panels. However, I know of some canvas and upholstery shops that say they can make them for you.
Why not use the original fabric as a pattern ? Also, wouldn't the double sided seam tape you all sell be better for holding seam down while sewing?
I have 80 pool side chairs to change out (60 lounge and 20 chairs similar to that chair). I will be ordering fabric from you guys.
Great video
Thanks for your kind comments and ordering from Sailrite! If you remove it carefully and it is not damaged by age, you can use it as a pattern. Yes, the seamstick would be helpful, just don't get it in the sleeve for the awning/sling cording. www.sailrite.com/Seamstick-1-4-Basting-Tape-for-Canvas-50-Yds
Wow, Quite a job for this old guy with arthritis but great video. If a new chair is cheaper than hiring this done i'll have to go that route ? Thanks
Wow after watching this excellent video I decided to buy some new chairs..
Our chairs have 3 side to side bars that are welded to the sides. We don't have stretch bars to remove. Is it still possible for us to get the right stretch? We have 6 chairs and will try one to begin if it is possible.
Ya, I have seen sling chairs where frames are welded together rather than using removable stretcher bars or bars that are screwed together. In those situations it is very difficult to push new sling fabric panels into the grooves of the chair frames. I do not have much advice for a process except to possibly make smaller panels for easier installation. The manufacture was not thinking about replacing the fabric, but instead wants you to buy new chairs when the fabric wears out. I try to avoid buying sling chairs that are welded together to avoid that issue. I did see a youtube video (can't find it now) of someone installing slings to this kind of lounger, but they used 2 large clamps to bring the side rails closer together, slightly bending the already curved stretcher bars. Then after getting the fabric in place I would lay the chair frame on a flat surface and apply pressure to the welded tension bar (probably by standing on them or using some of my body weight) bending the bars back to original shape to tension the fabric.
This is a fantastic instructional video. One question though - could you clarify where the second row of stitching goes on the lengthwise edges? It seems like you are saying it goes about a quarter of an inch to the right of the first line of stitching - is that correct? Or could you fortify the first row of stitch by just going over top of it? Thanks in advance for considering this.
Glad you liked the video! I usually place the second row about a 1/4" from the first. Since the hem is rather large you can place that stitch on either the left or right side of the first stitch. Do not stitch right over the first stitch, that will weaken the fabric since the needle is penetrating it so many times in the same spot, it sort of perforates the fabric.
@@SailriteDIY great, thank you for the guidance!
If installing the sling with the spline, it's good to be sure that about 3 inches of spline extend beyond the sling at the end opposite where you start. Otherwise when you finish the last inch of fabric will have no spline. Also, it helps to use a file and be sure that there are no sharp edges where you start to feed the sling.
Good suggestions, thanks!!!
I used a dremel tool to take off the sharp edges of the rail for the start.
I spray some WD-40 and turn the spine the opposite way in the grove or channel before pulling the spine out. This helps to cleans the grime and makes the old spine come out easier. Wipe away excess WD-40 once spine is out.
Well I am officially a Dad, watching this most dad of all dad videos.
Congratulations!
What can I use if I don't have a sewing machine to keep the fabric binded
Well.... I don't think it will work well without a sewing machine. We have not tested, but it may or may not work, to use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to glue Phifertex Plus sleeves in place. If you try using it and it works or not please comment back. I would think that sewing is better than gluing a sleeve, but who knows until it is tested.
Thanks!
I noticed that when you talk about layout of fabric, you don’t talk about how much extra for seams...don’t I need to add that before I can figure out how to lay it out? My length is 49 1/8...adding in seam allowance is probably going to put me over for the 54” wide...just curious.
When measuring the width would one need to add the 2” slot on each side along with the 5/16 hem? If one doesn’t add this dimension I would think the measurements would be too narrow and possibly ruin the entire project causing one to need to start over and order more fabric.
At 11:03 min we show calculations for the width (cut size) as follows: Width + (Slot x 2) + 4 = Cut width of fabric. Use the Sailrite Fabric Calculator for Sling Chairs and get it right the first time: www.fabric-calculator.com/SlingChair/index.html
If my fabric ends up being too long after I pull it through the chair do I have to take it out and essential start over??
is there any ready made to purchase of any size of the chair? how many yards of fabric in one chair.
You can use this calculator to figure how many yards you need. In most cases 1.33 yards will complete two sling chairs.
I realize this is an old video, but what size spline did you use? My old spline is neither of the sizes carried by Sailrite. Is it possible it shrank?
The spline for most chairs is 1/4" in size. No, the spline should not shrink in time.
Thanks
thank you for the information I willl learn how to replace some than you
You are welcome!
I think rubbing some bar soap, or dish washing soap, or rubbing white candle wax or even Vaseline on the edge of the fabric that's to be slid through the rails will help it slide easier.
You can put some liquid soap or Vaseline on a Q-tip and run that through the rails to lube the insides.
I'm not sure why you measured the old fabric while it was still on the chair, and then measure it again while it was removed and flat on the floor. I would measure it after it's been removed. That would be much easier and it's more accurate than trying to measure around curves.
Good suggestions! Why measure the old fabric on the chair prior to removal? Many customers do not want to disassemble the chair prior to ordering the fabric. Measuring in advance to ordering new fabric means they can use the chair up until the date they are ready to sew and assemble the new panels.
Sailrite
That may be so, but, it's a real pain measuring curves esp when you have a floppy measuring tape. You'll get more accurate measuring if you do it while the material is flat. Also, at that point you can see all the hems so you can measure those too and add those measurements to the main ones to get the final size of the fabric.
Another question I just thought of, why do you have to turn under the side 1/2"? Can you just fold it over like you did the top? It won't ravel. It sure would make it easier to begin pulling it through the rail.
The edge with the sling cording is the edge that will come under a great deal of stress when the occupant sits in the chair. So, creating this half inch fold is kind of important to help reinforce the fabric. The 1/2" fold should not get in the way of the fabric that has to be pulled through the metal channeling, since it is only folded back a half inch. I hope this information helps.
Well done
Can you buy this pre finished?
No, sorry. We only supply the tools and fabric for DIY.
great video
We are glad you liked it. Let us know if you have any questions.
Where can I buy the cording? I have a few pieces that have broken. I cannot find it on the sailrite site
Here is a link for the sling cording: www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=sling%20cording
Can I use the old spline that I remove from the chair and sew it into the new fabric? Just trying to save some money.
Yes you can. If it is still in good shape use it.
Is the bar-clamp/spreader used in the video a "heavy duty" 24" spreader (600 lb max), or is it a regular 24" inch (300 lb max) spreader? I plan to buy one, since all my chair slings are wearing out at the same time and I can do everything except reattach the spreader bars.
In this video we used the Irwin Quick-grip one handed bar clamp "heavy duty" 36" (Irwin part #1964715) which is rated for up to 600 lbs. We do not need the 36" length a 24" length is sufficient. Also a 300 lbs. rating would also work.
Can you rent one instead of buying one?
I just did my 3 chairs which had an extra curve at the bottom of the chair. The Irwin heavy duty bar spreader(600 lbs max) wasn't strong enough. I ended up trying a bottle jack(HFT) with 4x4 wood block to stretch the sling frame. It was a very controlled high pressure stretch. My chairs fought me every step of the way. The bottle jack made stretching easy. Pledge spray helped loosen the sling material for removal. Vaseline helped during sling installation. I am not sure if Vaseline is compatible with the chemical properties of the sling material but it sure helped during installation.
@@peblum Can you share which exact jack you used? The Irwin spreader didn't work for me either, and I can't bend the spreader bars at all.
@@pbrenneraz Harbor Freight Tools Item69472 4 Ton Heavy Duty Hydraulic Bottle Jack. I had to add oil to the jack to get it to work after purchase before first use. Jack is about 7.5 inches tall and very cheap with coupon.
what kind of thread to use for home sewing machine and 15-16oz fabric???
A home sewing machine usually cannot handle any thread larger than a V-69 Polyester, so that is what I would recommend. However, if your machine could handle a V-92 Polyester that is what I would want to use.
@@SailriteDIY How can one find out if it can handle V-92 thread. I have a Bernina 445 if that helps any. Also if it can't handle V-92 to you suggest a more reinforces straight stitch or still use a normal straight stitch?
@@athenaglasby7831 A Bernina 445 is considered to be a home sewing machine. I don't think it will be able to tension a V-92 thread. So instead get V-69 Polyester thread. Just use a normal straight stitch.
@@athenaglasby7831 It, Bernina 445, will not be able to handle the tension of V-92 thread, sorry. I would expect it to handle V-69 Polyester easily. Use a normal straight stitch.
can you please give me the name of a person that covers them in the monterergie region
Cathy Warwaruk ;(67(
What is the item # of the thread that is used in this video? I will be purchasing a LSZ1 Plus, can the thread that comes with it be used? Thanks
You can use the following threads for sling chairs: V-69 Polyester (for a home sewing machine) or V-92 Polyester (for a heavy duty sewing machine) or Profilen PTFE Lifetiime Thread. We used the Profilen item #107128 in this video.
maybe i missed something, but is there any reason why you don't slide out the old fabric and then measure it, rather than measuring with it slid in the frame already?
That can be done, if your old fabric is in good shape and not stretched.
Soo what type of thread should be used?
We usually consider two types of thread for outdoor projects: Polyester thread or PTFE thread. Sailrite carries two brands of PTFE thread: Sailrite Lifetime Thread (formally called Profilen PTFE) and Tenara PTFE. The PTFE threads will last the life time of the fabric no matter the climate they are used in and they are chemical resistant and fade proof. However, PTFE threads are more costly and slightly more difficult to sew with. Sailrite Lifetime Thread PTFE sews easier than Tenara brand PTFE threads on an oscillating hook sewing machine (like what the Sailrite Ultrafeed uses). Both sew wonderfully in a rotary hook sewing machine. Most customers pick Polyester thread because it is less expensive and easy to sew with. A Polyester thread is UV resistant, but its life is totally dependent on the amount of UV (and other outdoor elements) it is exposed to. If used in the Midwest a Polyester thread may last 5 to 10 years if used in the tropics or desert it may last only a few years. If you purchase Polyester thread the best fade resistant colors are Black and White, they are solution dyed (colors run all the way through the thread) the other colors of Polyester threads are only coated on the surface and will fade faster.
Why do you need the 1/2 hem on the sides?
The half inch hem finishes off the raw edge of the fabric adding both a better looking edge and also a little more strength for the sleeve.
What fabric choice and color or id was used in this video?
Here is the fabric that was used in this video: www.sailrite.com/Phifertex-Vinyl-Sling-Sisal-Aloe-54-Fabric
Can the fabric be pre ordered with the measurements already cut AND the edges already sewn for easy installation for those who don't have a sewing machine?
Hi Berto,
That is not something we do, but you can order the fabric and find an upholstery shop to cut and sew it for you.
@@SailriteDIY Maybe there's an opportunity there for the company to make some more money! I'll take a percentage for the idea. Lol. Anyway, thanks for replying.
@@bertosantos9699 $60+ each sling from Hampton Bay
dont have a sewin machine. maybe a stapler will work?
Hi Chuck,
We would not recommend a stapler, it most likely will not hold up.