There is a guy on the Dsm forums that sells a complete shifter bushing kit or separate pieces. Great product. Also looks like you need a lower radiator bushing. You can upgrade that steel line to slave with a SS line. Coming along great and enjoy more Dsm content
Long-time DSM'er here. Great video. I would highly recommend replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball before installing that new trans, and shim the pivot ball with at least one washer. This can help with clutch disengagement issues that are super common on these cars. Does the car have a stock clutch and flywheel? Also, it's worth inspecting the clutch pedal assembly for wear, because they can wear out where the lever arm connects to the pedal that actually pushes into the master cylinder, and this effectively reduces the amount of throw your clutch has whenever you push on the pedal. There are lots of threads about this on the forums.
Just rebuild it. I was told "dont open that transmission, you will never get it back together." Blah blah.. that was on my impreza. Popped it open, replaced the syncros, even replaced a gear. No problems after 70k miles... Edit: Just actually watched the video.. great job Caleb, loving the content!!
I love how you're powering through despite all the hardship. You make this channel so watchable! I have a suggestion regarding the old gearbox; you have a new running/driving one so why not try your hand at rebuilding it anyway and see if you can sell it on. I reckon we'd enjoy that, and you'd learn some important lessons.
Ahh nice, a 1G GST. My first DSM was a 95 GST. Turned me into a mechanic (as a hobby). 3 DSMs and 2 EVOs later... really miss em. Really nice 1G you have there. If you ever need anything for a 2G, let me know, I have a bunch of oem stuff laying around in my parent's old toolshed, hasn't been touched in at least 15 years so it probably has a inch of dust on everything.
Def a pretty easy trans to swap overall. Remember to check out Jafromobile's videos if you have any questions. I did several on installing a DSM trans too actually.
I slept under a 1g to replace the steering rack. A field mouse at my buddies garage nearly caused a concusion. Had the engine and transmission out twice to rebuild. Transmissions first rebuild had evo 3 alum shift forks which would not work properly to hold in 1st gear. Sent it to tre to have it properly rebuilt. Replaced all the bushings and cables back then. Engine was out a second time because my engine builder/machinist talked me out of putting the balance shaft delete kit in. Without a doubt your problem is the shifter cables. They stretch so much and you just can't tell it. Hopefully you put new cables in with the rebuild. Those I'm convinced is what fixed my slop and grind. Though having a proper rebuild helped as well. I think those cables just see so many heat cycles they stretch a ton. And then that slop causes shifts to eat synchros.
Stumbled across this series last night... MAN this takes me back..... The old days when all you needed to turn up the boost was a $35 bleeder valve :D. Not surprised by the trans issues, the trans in these DSMs were well nicknamed "Glass transmission" back in the day, and I'm sure time has NOT been kind to them.
So cool to see some Mitsubishi stuff on RUclips. I have a 96 Galant 2.0 V6 and I love that thing. These Eclipses are so cool and rad, and I really enjoy your content. Greetings from Germany
To help with the tree situation you should get a Covercraft outdoor cover, they make custom fitted covers for any car. I have one for my s2k, and it keeps her dry and pristine :)
someone probably quick shifted 2nd and 3rd so much the synchro's wore down technically the trans is "ok" its just no longer synchronized in those gears. good way to tell if you have them is how easy it is to switch into those gears without using the clutch like is it easier or the same to not use the clutch or does it still feel like there's a barrier there like the synchro's are getting in the way
Gotta be the internal synchros, also be sure to only buy a OEM mitsu throw out bearing and read about possibly having to put a shim on the clutch fork pivot ball if you're not replacing the clutch and flywheel. Also while in there I'd do the stainless steel clutch line conversion from STM or one of those sites, it eliminates the dampener I believe it's called and gives you a nicer feeling clutch.
Is it possible you could find a decent sized storage unit to work out of? I know something with power would be ideal tho. Thats the situation im in is that im stuck working out of 2 storage units and it sucks lol, but better then being out in the elements!
As a new Comer to the channel as of recent, the editing and quality of the footage you do is just unbelievable. Constantly motivation to do better on my own channel and now you even have me liking old eclipses. What have you done 🤣🤣🤣
I can absolutely appreciate taking the path of least resistance with the expectation of achieving a positive outcome . Nevertheless , obtaining a new tranny was inevitable . If in fact , you can repair the current tranny , how long can you realistically expect it to hold up ? These vehicles were all driven hard . 1 in hand is worth 10 in the bush . Once you get this one sorted out , you are going to modify it to increase its output . A spare transmission is essential given your previous history . Thank you for taking us along for the ride . Good stuff , keep it coming !
Gingium you inspired me ! I am from Mchenry county , not too far from your beginnings! I saw you driving your Miata on 31 before I even knew you were a RUclipsr! Now I can’t stop watching!
You might need to use different shifter cables if your dsm is a 90 or has a 90 transmission in it, That new transmission that you got is 91-94 but check the 10th vin digit stamped on the bell housing on it to make sure its a 91-92, transmissions used on the 93-94 used different axles so you might end up needing to ether swap axles to newer ones as well in order to use 93-94 1g transmission.
If it's not grinding in other gears but is in 1 or 2, it's more than likely worn synchronizers or synchro collars and not something to do with the hydraulics (for hydraulic clutches) or clutch cables/clutch arms. If it had shift rods/linkages with bushings it could've been bushings but since it's a cable shifted trans it's less likely to not be engaging fully unless there was something physically stopping the cable or cable end linkages in those particular gears. Pull that old trans apart and break down the output and driven counter shaft to get familiar with changing synchros for future projects it's really not as hard as it looks & nothing like a rear end.
glad youre honest about it. i rebuilt a transmission and yeah it came out again and was sent to a shop lol. the only thing i cannot do is a transmission.
I ended up replacing my transmission fluid about once a year. I tried 3 different kinds and one definitely minimized the grind. I think Pennzoil was the best for my car.
For some reason Mitsubishi gearboxes are like this. Had a mate change his oil thinking he was smart. Grinding instantly, 1st 2nd 3rd synchros all stripped within 2 months. He never thought that it was his oil change that did it
I think it's wise to get another transmission, in my case I know what the manual in the Camry has done, I'm the second owner, I know that I changed the oil, how it has been driven, and that the synchros are now starting to get worn (not bad for 430,000 km's lol). But if you don't how often the oil has been changed, or if it's ever been changed. How they have driven it aka flogged it. You could open a can of worms trying to rebuild. Just my 2 cents.
For sure. So many people service their motor regularly and have never touched the trans in their life. Whenever I’ve gotten a new vehicle, its always a full fluid replacement, accessory belts and basic gaskets. I cant know what others have done so i have to assume nothings been done
It seems likelly the box itself is worn, but here are a few thoughts: Any movement at the tranny side of those shift cables. I'll bet some spherical bushings would zero out the slop (if any) there. Also, are you sure the clutch hydraulics bled out completely? Is there a bleeder up high? If not, you could try cracking the line up high by the clutch master, put an absorbent rag underneath it and bleed from there a little...push, hold, crack line open, tighten line, release. Repeat. When driving, come out of second, release clutch, pump pedal rapidly two times, then press down and hold a third time, shift into third and see if it is any cleaner. You are trying to build up some hydraulic pressure in the event it isn't fully bled, or the master/slave is leaking internally. If so, clutch hydraulics or mushy flex hose, throw-out bearing, fork, fork pivot, or pressure plate fingers. With older stuff, you need to keep an open mind to ALL possible points of failure, not just the usual suspects. Heck, what does the pedal pivot look like too? Thanks for sharing your journey.
Redline MTL sorted my grinding on my F5M33 trans (91 eclipse) the problem is worn synchronizers. If the mtl doesn't do it, it's not too hard to tear the trans apart and replace them
I'd bet $100 it was an incorrect fluid change that made it grind. Then repeated grinding destroyed the syncros Very typical in Mitsubishi gearboxes. The proper amsoil oil would've fixed it
Rebuilding a transmission is not as hard as you think. I have no qualifications from school, none from outside sources, and yet I was able to disassemble, and then reassemble an F355 Challenge 6 speed gearbox. Nothing is impossible my friend, just believe in yourself!! I have for 20+ years 😉☺️
Had a Talon 94 DL, 90 TSi AWD and a 91 TSi as my first 3 cars. This was back in 2000. The balance shaft belt broke on my 90. My dad and I replaced the belt but did not replace the timing belt tensioner and guess what happened?? Timing belt slipped and destroyed the engine.
I had this model the 'Plymouth Laser' branded one. Exact same car. Transmission one day locked up and I couldn't even shift. I got rid of the car. Kudo's if you can fix it. Transmission will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Your car will do the same thing mine did eventually. I had the same symptoms.
It really can cause grinding but mostly in front wheel drive cars gearbox mounts are a huge and I mean huge part to play with grinding in the front wheel drive car so it might be worth looking at
Dang men please keep the mazda truck, to me it's the best frankenstein truck you got. To me it's an epic small compact truck you got, but hey it's up to you what you do with your stuff. Keep it dawg.
Man i still remember when you walked into advance auto parts in batavia and I didn’t realize it was you till you came to check out and I was like WAIT A MINUTE
The cables look like it’s for a 90 and the shifter is 91+ . I would check everything and make sure it’s for that year. Even the new trans has a 90 bracket . So you might just need a new shifter base ?
It boggles me that some youtubes with only half of Gingium's subscribers build shops with lifts, expensive cars etc while Gingium rents an house without a garage and has more then 550k subscribers. (btw I turn off adblock when I watch Gingium's video's)
Rebuilding a transmission is not as hard as you think. You just need to be meticulous. All you need is a few pullers (large and small) a press and good set of lock ring pliers, RUclips and the factory manual.
Replace the Synchromesh with the Redline DSM "Cocktail". 2qts MT-90 and 1qt MTL. Fill with 1qt MT90, then 1qt MTL , and top off the fill with MT90. Synchromesh is way too thin for these transmissions.
@@janeblogs324 The F5M is no R154. I've used the Redline Cocktail in numerous Mitsubishi FWD and AWD transmissions with very good results. Amsoil makes fine products, I run their engine oil and filters in my vehicles. Regardless, the Redline or Amsoil products are still better than running Synchromesh in this particular application.
I wonder if you got that transmission from Tom’s Turbo Garage.. I feel like I remember him living in South Carolina area and he’s owned a bunch of DSMs.
My brother has a 3000gt vr4 that grinds when you put it into 2nd and 3rd too fast. You gotta slowly. Put. It. In those gears for it not to grind. Would that be warn out bushings? Or a whole trans rebuild?
I know it's scary and intimidating but I'd still like to see you rebuild a transmission. You're a smart guy and will figure it out. Maybe have a practice on your old one then once it works again, sell it to recover some cost?
You know what really grinds my gears? People who sell you a car and tell you it grinds its gears due to bushings because the internet told them it was bushings. Lol
I remember your video about the Ford 8.8, I just swapped the ring and pinion in my Ford 10.25 and now it’s howling and not smooth, did yours just have to be reshimmed a bunch?
With these axial gears you should always shim them for proper wear and also for noise pollution It’s a bit of a project since you have to build it completely then undo half of it to check for clearance but that’s most likely you’re problem
If double clutching at all helps the synchro is gone, but in that; even just one damn double clutch to see.. xD The exact same grind in the exact same way as my cable actuated toyota transmission with a pooched syncro. Rev match, double clutch, try and do the things the broken thing is no longer doing; bringing rotational speeds closer to one another. I'll never know..
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
There is a guy on the Dsm forums that sells a complete shifter bushing kit or separate pieces. Great product. Also looks like you need a lower radiator bushing. You can upgrade that steel line to slave with a SS line. Coming along great and enjoy more Dsm content
This.
This guy seems to know what he's talking about.
Shifter cables
The 3d printed ones? Eh... Kinda junk.
@@8145dwerdna these ones do the interior side and tranny side. They are brass.
Long-time DSM'er here. Great video. I would highly recommend replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball before installing that new trans, and shim the pivot ball with at least one washer. This can help with clutch disengagement issues that are super common on these cars. Does the car have a stock clutch and flywheel? Also, it's worth inspecting the clutch pedal assembly for wear, because they can wear out where the lever arm connects to the pedal that actually pushes into the master cylinder, and this effectively reduces the amount of throw your clutch has whenever you push on the pedal. There are lots of threads about this on the forums.
he doesn't pay attention to these tips, unfortunately. we're so far behind his shooting schedule that it wouldn't matter if he did anyway
sure you didnt design the eclipse? You are an encyclopedia of knowledge my god haha
@@izaaka70 lol no, just owned one for over 20 years and dealt with every issue under the sun that happens to these cars
@@CaptainTonus everywhere I swear you are EVERYWHERE 🤣
@@ThatMaximaKid i am everywhere and nowhere all at the same time...
You talking about “belt driven spooly boi” made me very happy because the drift truck was probably my favorite project
Just rebuild it. I was told "dont open that transmission, you will never get it back together." Blah blah.. that was on my impreza. Popped it open, replaced the syncros, even replaced a gear. No problems after 70k miles...
Edit: Just actually watched the video.. great job Caleb, loving the content!!
Can't really do that without getting parts, which arnt really available.
@@jtackerman28 shoots.. good point. Cant just go to a dealer i guess lol.
Omg the Mazda truck paint looks like it’s been sitting outside for years
It's insane to see all these places local to me in a video, I'm in commerce and love the channel!
Man, I honestly think you are so inspiring. Thank you for all your hard work I love your videos!
Thank you so much man!
I love how you're powering through despite all the hardship. You make this channel so watchable!
I have a suggestion regarding the old gearbox; you have a new running/driving one so why not try your hand at rebuilding it anyway and see if you can sell it on. I reckon we'd enjoy that, and you'd learn some important lessons.
Ahh nice, a 1G GST. My first DSM was a 95 GST. Turned me into a mechanic (as a hobby). 3 DSMs and 2 EVOs later... really miss em. Really nice 1G you have there.
If you ever need anything for a 2G, let me know, I have a bunch of oem stuff laying around in my parent's old toolshed, hasn't been touched in at least 15 years so it probably has a inch of dust on everything.
Make sure you replace the clutch, clutch fork, and bearing while you're in there.
Def a pretty easy trans to swap overall. Remember to check out Jafromobile's videos if you have any questions. I did several on installing a DSM trans too actually.
Patreon gang!
💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
I slept under a 1g to replace the steering rack. A field mouse at my buddies garage nearly caused a concusion. Had the engine and transmission out twice to rebuild. Transmissions first rebuild had evo 3 alum shift forks which would not work properly to hold in 1st gear. Sent it to tre to have it properly rebuilt. Replaced all the bushings and cables back then. Engine was out a second time because my engine builder/machinist talked me out of putting the balance shaft delete kit in. Without a doubt your problem is the shifter cables. They stretch so much and you just can't tell it. Hopefully you put new cables in with the rebuild. Those I'm convinced is what fixed my slop and grind. Though having a proper rebuild helped as well. I think those cables just see so many heat cycles they stretch a ton. And then that slop causes shifts to eat synchros.
Stumbled across this series last night... MAN this takes me back..... The old days when all you needed to turn up the boost was a $35 bleeder valve :D. Not surprised by the trans issues, the trans in these DSMs were well nicknamed "Glass transmission" back in the day, and I'm sure time has NOT been kind to them.
So cool to see some Mitsubishi stuff on RUclips. I have a 96 Galant 2.0 V6 and I love that thing. These Eclipses are so cool and rad, and I really enjoy your content. Greetings from Germany
I had a GS and a GS-T and they both grindededed in 2nd. It was the synchros that needed to be replaced.
Also check out ONR and car covers :)
That homemade PEX bushing is great! It's so satisfying when a random chunk of material can be repurposed to great effect for a few pennies :)
This has been a great series for the Channel. Cheapish easy fixes rather than a whole build. Nice to see how the car has came along
To help with the tree situation you should get a Covercraft outdoor cover, they make custom fitted covers for any car. I have one for my s2k, and it keeps her dry and pristine :)
someone probably quick shifted 2nd and 3rd so much the synchro's wore down technically the trans is "ok" its just no longer synchronized in those gears. good way to tell if you have them is how easy it is to switch into those gears without using the clutch like is it easier or the same to not use the clutch or does it still feel like there's a barrier there like the synchro's are getting in the way
Gotta be the internal synchros, also be sure to only buy a OEM mitsu throw out bearing and read about possibly having to put a shim on the clutch fork pivot ball if you're not replacing the clutch and flywheel. Also while in there I'd do the stainless steel clutch line conversion from STM or one of those sites, it eliminates the dampener I believe it's called and gives you a nicer feeling clutch.
Is it possible you could find a decent sized storage unit to work out of? I know something with power would be ideal tho. Thats the situation im in is that im stuck working out of 2 storage units and it sucks lol, but better then being out in the elements!
As a new Comer to the channel as of recent, the editing and quality of the footage you do is just unbelievable. Constantly motivation to do better on my own channel and now you even have me liking old eclipses. What have you done 🤣🤣🤣
Love the high quality!
Great video as always, your smashing it bro 👌
I can absolutely appreciate taking the path of least resistance with the expectation of achieving a positive outcome . Nevertheless , obtaining a new tranny was inevitable . If in fact , you can repair the current tranny , how long can you realistically expect it to hold up ? These vehicles were all driven hard . 1 in hand is worth 10 in the bush . Once you get this one sorted out , you are going to modify it to increase its output . A spare transmission is essential given your previous history . Thank you for taking us along for the ride . Good stuff , keep it coming !
Gingium you inspired me ! I am from Mchenry county , not too far from your beginnings!
I saw you driving your Miata on 31 before I even knew you were a RUclipsr! Now I can’t stop watching!
2nd used to grind on my 1g. I was able to grab synchros from 3rd to get it to go smooth. So my shift looked like a lower case "y" lol. It worked!
You might need to use different shifter cables if your dsm is a 90 or has a 90 transmission in it, That new transmission that you got is 91-94 but check the 10th vin digit stamped on the bell housing on it to make sure its a 91-92, transmissions used on the 93-94 used different axles so you might end up needing to ether swap axles to newer ones as well in order to use 93-94 1g transmission.
Check the gearbox mounts. They can cause misshifts if damaged
If it's not grinding in other gears but is in 1 or 2, it's more than likely worn synchronizers or synchro collars and not something to do with the hydraulics (for hydraulic clutches) or clutch cables/clutch arms. If it had shift rods/linkages with bushings it could've been bushings but since it's a cable shifted trans it's less likely to not be engaging fully unless there was something physically stopping the cable or cable end linkages in those particular gears.
Pull that old trans apart and break down the output and driven counter shaft to get familiar with changing synchros for future projects it's really not as hard as it looks & nothing like a rear end.
glad youre honest about it. i rebuilt a transmission and yeah it came out again and was sent to a shop lol. the only thing i cannot do is a transmission.
I ended up replacing my transmission fluid about once a year. I tried 3 different kinds and one definitely minimized the grind. I think Pennzoil was the best for my car.
For some reason Mitsubishi gearboxes are like this.
Had a mate change his oil thinking he was smart. Grinding instantly, 1st 2nd 3rd synchros all stripped within 2 months.
He never thought that it was his oil change that did it
honestly i’m committed to this series.
I think it's wise to get another transmission, in my case I know what the manual in the Camry has done, I'm the second owner, I know that I changed the oil, how it has been driven, and that the synchros are now starting to get worn (not bad for 430,000 km's lol). But if you don't how often the oil has been changed, or if it's ever been changed. How they have driven it aka flogged it. You could open a can of worms trying to rebuild.
Just my 2 cents.
For sure. So many people service their motor regularly and have never touched the trans in their life.
Whenever I’ve gotten a new vehicle, its always a full fluid replacement, accessory belts and basic gaskets. I cant know what others have done so i have to assume nothings been done
You need to use car covers to take care of the paint. You have beautiful rides, hate to see the sap ruin their paint
I've used that same waterless wash since I met them at Tougefest in 2019. Love that stuff!!
Just found your channel, im a sucker for anything dsm, and I'm addicted!
I love watching the Eclipse videos, It makes me want one again. Even thou mine blew up 4 weeks after I bought it.
Is it just me or does it look like he's missing one of the lower radiator mount bushings too?
It seems likelly the box itself is worn, but here are a few thoughts: Any movement at the tranny side of those shift cables. I'll bet some spherical bushings would zero out the slop (if any) there. Also, are you sure the clutch hydraulics bled out completely? Is there a bleeder up high? If not, you could try cracking the line up high by the clutch master, put an absorbent rag underneath it and bleed from there a little...push, hold, crack line open, tighten line, release. Repeat. When driving, come out of second, release clutch, pump pedal rapidly two times, then press down and hold a third time, shift into third and see if it is any cleaner. You are trying to build up some hydraulic pressure in the event it isn't fully bled, or the master/slave is leaking internally. If so, clutch hydraulics or mushy flex hose, throw-out bearing, fork, fork pivot, or pressure plate fingers. With older stuff, you need to keep an open mind to ALL possible points of failure, not just the usual suspects. Heck, what does the pedal pivot look like too? Thanks for sharing your journey.
"yeah that didn't fix anything" . That cut (3:02) made me laugh so hard!
So my friends and I had the same problem in the same year model we bought an kdn shifter it really helped out but maybe an pretty expensive solution
Im prety shocked to see how normal it seems to just drain any liquid straight into the ground....
I wonder about that with every American car channel I watch
This is 1. Not Normal and 2. Fucked up. Shit should go to household hazardous waste.
yeah indeed wtf
Definitely not normal. Just lazy TBH.
He means normalised :(
Yes Muricans, its fkd up
I'm liking the content brother keep up the good work
Redline MTL sorted my grinding on my F5M33 trans (91 eclipse) the problem is worn synchronizers. If the mtl doesn't do it, it's not too hard to tear the trans apart and replace them
I'd bet $100 it was an incorrect fluid change that made it grind. Then repeated grinding destroyed the syncros
Very typical in Mitsubishi gearboxes. The proper amsoil oil would've fixed it
you could send your old transmission to a shop to get it built for possibly handling more power down the road?
if your going to drop the trans replace the clutch when you have it out and the rear main seal to now have to deal with that again
Rebuilding a transmission is not as hard as you think. I have no qualifications from school, none from outside sources, and yet I was able to disassemble, and then reassemble an F355 Challenge 6 speed gearbox.
Nothing is impossible my friend, just believe in yourself!!
I have for 20+ years 😉☺️
You get the best bushing
Had a Talon 94 DL, 90 TSi AWD and a 91 TSi as my first 3 cars. This was back in 2000. The balance shaft belt broke on my 90. My dad and I replaced the belt but did not replace the timing belt tensioner and guess what happened?? Timing belt slipped and destroyed the engine.
I had this model the 'Plymouth Laser' branded one. Exact same car. Transmission one day locked up and I couldn't even shift. I got rid of the car. Kudo's if you can fix it. Transmission will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Your car will do the same thing mine did eventually. I had the same symptoms.
Damn Gim, that's a PURDY piece of equipment. Found yourself a keeper
It really can cause grinding but mostly in front wheel drive cars gearbox mounts are a huge and I mean huge part to play with grinding in the front wheel drive car so it might be worth looking at
6:45 That 3000gt tho 😍
Back in 2000 I could pull a DSM gear box in 45 minutes. Such easy cars to work on.
Well atleast you fixed all the other little issues anyways. Hope the new trans is healthy! Can’t wIt to see this thing on the new wheels
It's literally just the synchros those transmissions are epic for them to wear out
Dang men please keep the mazda truck, to me it's the best frankenstein truck you got. To me it's an epic small compact truck you got, but hey it's up to you what you do with your stuff. Keep it dawg.
are the bottom bushings for the radiator gone? It looked to be so about 4:55 in.
Man i still remember when you walked into advance auto parts in batavia and I didn’t realize it was you till you came to check out and I was like WAIT A MINUTE
The cables look like it’s for a 90 and the shifter is 91+ . I would check everything and make sure it’s for that year. Even the new trans has a 90 bracket . So you might just need a new shifter base ?
never knew sap was that much of a problem, I guess we don't have that much down here in Kansas. Or I've somehow avoided it for 20 years.
It boggles me that some youtubes with only half of Gingium's subscribers build shops with lifts, expensive cars etc while Gingium rents an house without a garage and has more then 550k subscribers. (btw I turn off adblock when I watch Gingium's video's)
LOL Get a car cover BTW love your journey.
You should definitely get some car covers for all your cars in the meantime before u get a shop. You can even get cheap ones from Amazon.
Rebuilding a transmission is not as hard as you think. You just need to be meticulous. All you need is a few pullers (large and small) a press and good set of lock ring pliers, RUclips and the factory manual.
Belt-driven spooly boi, you say? Exciting stuff! I love that truck
Man I miss being able to quickly go to a Zaxby's. Now I live 30 minutes away from one.
Replace the Synchromesh with the Redline DSM "Cocktail". 2qts MT-90 and 1qt MTL.
Fill with 1qt MT90, then 1qt MTL , and top off the fill with MT90.
Synchromesh is way too thin for these transmissions.
Redline blue smurf blood used to be the go to oil for r154s. Turns out its actually rubbish.
Stick to amsoil
@@janeblogs324 The F5M is no R154. I've used the Redline Cocktail in numerous Mitsubishi FWD and AWD transmissions with very good results. Amsoil makes fine products, I run their engine oil and filters in my vehicles. Regardless, the Redline or Amsoil products are still better than running Synchromesh in this particular application.
Hell yeah! Didnt even watch yet but Im sure this will slap.
So from where you got the motor mount bushings?
I think I saw you on LaGrange on Saturday? Thought it was a C4 at first from the rear view lmao.
At like 7 mins you drove past what looked to be a whole ass house on a trailor, what about having a cheap prebuildt shed/shop placed at your house?
When you live in Illinois the leaves are falling constantly
My first thought wasn't even the bushings. My brain went straight to synchros lol
I wonder if you got that transmission from Tom’s Turbo Garage.. I feel like I remember him living in South Carolina area and he’s owned a bunch of DSMs.
He was always in Tennessee
Imagine the dsm with with a 1jz and awd, that would be awesome, but a ton of work non the less
Hey do you have that tent in your driveway anchored? If so, how so?
U are definitely living the dream dude
Aah the joys of owning a DSM. 👨🏼🔧
I totally miss my 98 Eclipse, it was a awesome car and I regret getting rid of it.
Where are you finding your score for your videos if you don't mind me asking?
My brother has a 3000gt vr4 that grinds when you put it into 2nd and 3rd too fast. You gotta slowly. Put. It. In those gears for it not to grind. Would that be warn out bushings? Or a whole trans rebuild?
If he changes his fluid now it might fix it completely, if he leaves it synchros will strip.
Go amsoil
Have to tried double clutching? It would tell you if it was a clutch issue or a trans issue
I know it's scary and intimidating but I'd still like to see you rebuild a transmission. You're a smart guy and will figure it out. Maybe have a practice on your old one then once it works again, sell it to recover some cost?
Belt driving spooly boy on the drift truck hype
2:25 Man, you need some Knipex Cobra's in your life!
yow that paint job looks so good
You got to use redline mt-90 in transmission makes so much of different put it in my car
Are you in eastern Georgia? I am always down to work on some cars.
You know what really grinds my gears? People who sell you a car and tell you it grinds its gears due to bushings because the internet told them it was bushings. Lol
I remember your video about the Ford 8.8, I just swapped the ring and pinion in my Ford 10.25 and now it’s howling and not smooth, did yours just have to be reshimmed a bunch?
With these axial gears you should always shim them for proper wear and also for noise pollution
It’s a bit of a project since you have to build it completely then undo half of it to check for clearance but that’s most likely you’re problem
some sorta Audi Quattro AWD system would be a really cool swap in that thing
Don't worry Caleb, sometimes I miss the gas pump too
Put bushing in the radiator in the low mounts...!
idk how much it is to get the trans built but i would do that
If double clutching at all helps the synchro is gone, but in that; even just one damn double clutch to see.. xD
The exact same grind in the exact same way as my cable actuated toyota transmission with a pooched syncro.
Rev match, double clutch, try and do the things the broken thing is no longer doing; bringing rotational speeds closer to one another.
I'll never know..
Good luck!