I have two echos. power steering gets a lock washer on the inner tie rods. for some reason the manual rack didn't so i used blue loctite. I wish it did though as it makes me feel better knowing those are staked in
Another option would be to use an inner tie rod tool (less than $10) that looks like an exhaust clamp with teeth and a 3/8 square hole to use an extension and ratchet. Rather than counting turns when removing the outer tie rod, I removed both inner and outer intact and measured the length from the flat inner to the center zerk grease fitting. I did both sides at the same time and adjusted 'em to match for perfect steering wheel centering. They weren't bad, I just wanted to eliminate any looseness since I was in there replacing a failed strut mount anyway. And for less than $10 I replaced both stabilizer bar links with a Moog kit. The front press-in wheel bearings weren't loose but they weren't as smooth as I like so less than $50 in parts corrected that and the hub didn't need to be removed from the car. Now if I could only stop my wife from calling the Echo a death trap. Not many cars will start right up after sitting untouched in a backyard for 17 years, but this one did.
High quality video, he shows you everything and explains it all. Gonna use this to fix my 2000 echo.
I have two echos. power steering gets a lock washer on the inner tie rods. for some reason the manual rack didn't so i used blue loctite. I wish it did though as it makes me feel better knowing those are staked in
Big fan from the FSBC youth group days, great content as always!
Great video! Thanks a lot. I need to tackle this same repair soon on my 2002 Echo.
Another option would be to use an inner tie rod tool (less than $10) that looks like an exhaust clamp with teeth and a 3/8 square hole to use an extension and ratchet. Rather than counting turns when removing the outer tie rod, I removed both inner and outer intact and measured the length from the flat inner to the center zerk grease fitting. I did both sides at the same time and adjusted 'em to match for perfect steering wheel centering. They weren't bad, I just wanted to eliminate any looseness since I was in there replacing a failed strut mount anyway. And for less than $10 I replaced both stabilizer bar links with a Moog kit. The front press-in wheel bearings weren't loose but they weren't as smooth as I like so less than $50 in parts corrected that and the hub didn't need to be removed from the car. Now if I could only stop my wife from calling the Echo a death trap. Not many cars will start right up after sitting untouched in a backyard for 17 years, but this one did.
Great video. I don’t like not having a cotter pin and a castle nut on the outer tie rod end.
Thank you so much 😊
Very informative! Wow!
Thanks for this awesome video! Learned a lot!
Very useful, thank you
So both sides use the same inner tie rod?
That locking mechanism is a nylock nut I guess