Hey guys! Thanks for your concern and recommendations. Don’t worry, this point we’re only using the innerstay as an additional support without it carrying any load and testing the idea of a hanked on storm sail. The used sail we found is mainly going to be a back up onboard but happened to also be good test size for a staysail.
I really love you guys and your attitudes toward life! I'm a 57 year old married guy who dreams of buying a 38ft to 46ft center cabin Hunter sailboat, used of course! I just wanted to say thank you for your videos and all the efforts they take!
Niiiiiice measurement and nice work 🎉 The only thing I would do differently is I would have added a bead along the entire deck plate, not just the screws. Our used butyl tape. Something to keep water out. ✨🌊💨⛵️🏝👙✨
Glad your 42 has a back stay. Makes for a better platform for a stasail. You won’t be disappointed. Run som fairleads for the running rigging aside from the Jibsail and you will have a formidable cutter!
Nice job, as usual. Just so you know. They use brass piston hanks so they dont wear the stay. The brass is basically sacrificial and can need replacing. But I doubt the SS on SS will be a concern for you. Good luck.
Umm. I don’t think so Inner forstay only stops mast pumping . You def don’t want running back stays on a cruising yacht and they are only for rigs where the mainsail is too big with roach to pass the fixed back stay during a tack or gybe
Not sure how far behind you post video's, but Sailing Atticus is about to cross the Atlantis as well. Maybe a thought to tag along if possible. Strength in numbers and all that. Good luck you two. Good winds and fair seas.
Well done sir! I was thinking for finding the right location for the holes, with the chain plate in place, you could have put a bright light in the anchor locker and marked the holes in the V-berth. You got it done and of course that is the important part.
Good job 👍 you two are getting more experience and confidence,I be been watching you ever since you started your channel.I wouldn’t tighten that too tight as it just put more strain on the deck and the mast also be sure put safety rings in the turnbuckle so it don’t come apart or fall overboard.if you get a chance try a smaller headsail you will be surprised as it may outperform your 130.
My hole boat is put together with those cable ends and it was out in the gulf of Mexico during hurricane 🌀 Irma a cat 5 hurricane. Those ends if installed right are stronger than prest on ends. The rest of my boat got messed up but the rig was fine. Nice job putting your new stay up. Looks good.
Nice to see you in SXM back in April. Stoked you got that together yourselves, I am sure you will enjoy sailing with it. When running both head sails on Gizmo we trim the genoa 1st, then the staysl. Sheet the staysl in and out to see how it changes your genoa trim. We run ours from 65-70 AWA through 115-ish AWA with the genoa. Your mileage may vary! Fair winds :) Gizmo crew
We saw Gizmo like the first day we got there back at the end of January so we were glad to actually see you again before we left there! Hope to cross paths again and fair winds to Gizmo and the crew!
Great Idea ! Cutters are the best offshore. You need to tie that chain plate to the hull some how , the deck will pull up when the wind gets up and thats when you will use that sail . Also how are you supporting the forward pull on the mast from the inner forestay ? Are you adding runners? The swept back spreader are not designed to support that kind of load .
@@davidstaceysvcalypso1103 it’s actually a mast head rig with swept back spreaders and a conventional back stay B &R rigs don’t have a back stay . Regardless the inner forstay will need to be supported or it will just pull the mast forward . Getting any tension on that stay will be difficult without runners .
You are wrong. This was hunters first attempt at a B&R rig. This is a discontinuous rig with reverse diagonals that will hold tension on the inner forestay. They added the backstay as the swept back spreaders were not long enough to support the rig under extreme loads.
@@davidstaceysvcalypso1103 there is no upper forward facing diamond . The inner forstay was just put there to help support a lighter mast section , there is some mention of runners in the rig manual
Metal on metal may be an issue, also some of those carabiners (snap hooks) are not very strong. I assume you looked at their specs. Overall I was very impressed with your workmanship and explanation of the process. One more thing, to break apart that joint you will likely need heat now, as red locktite is like super glue for threads. I am excited for both of you. Nice job !
Your friend did an excellent job producing it. Hope you used some epoxy at the top and sikkaflex to fix it. Now running backstays😊 Chainplate was well made. Stormsail is not a staysail. Job well done !!!!!
This could be Part 1 of “Rig failure at sea” It looks like you are using a Sta-Lok fitting, and in Step 4. Of the instructions it clearly states “Ensure approx. 1/8″ (2-3mm) of the central core protrudes from the end of the wedge”. You used 8-10mm, that 200% over the maximum stick-out allowed. If not Sta-Lok then disregard. At 18:12 in the video it clearly shows an initial crimp with improper crown form and outer wires not conforming to the short part of the wedge. (compare it to the pic on the package or the onlines). Before re-rigging my boat with Sta-Lok fittings I did what they call “research” and spoke with the regional factory representative (not a sales person or retailer) about assembly. They do NOT recommend ANY thread locking compound, in fact they recommend (and apply at the factory) Tef-Gel, an anti-corrosion/ anti-galling compound. All that thread-lock talk is hearsay and good idea fairy mumbo-jumbo. (Yes, before you break any fingers typing, including roller furlers, I asked specifically.) As mentioned in other comments, all rigging needs to be properly secured to a structural part of the boat not just the anchor locker drain pan (not to mention bonding wire for lightning to pass). Would really like to see what is holding the top of the inner forestay? I know you said the mast was already rigged for this, but is it a proper tang meant for purpose or is it an attachment point for a block to support a downwind pole? An inner forestay is where you would fly a storm staysail in strong weather and should be rock solid. Speaking of the top of the inner forestay, what is opposing the forward force created by the sail? As the old rigging analogy of pasta goes, if a mast (dried spaghetti), is supported at the base and top, then a force is applied to the middle by pulling, it will break without opposing support. Anyone that comments “good job” or “nice work” is either just being false nice, trolling you waiting for the disaster, or is ignorant about rigging and just like things that look pretty and shiny. If you ever have an insurance claim on this boat due to a rig failure, make sure to delete this episode before they get hold of it and use it as evidence to not pay. There should be a disclaimer on the video about being for “entertainment purposes only, and people looking to safely sail across oceans should do their own research and look elsewhere for accurate information”. All that being said, it sure is pretty and shiny. The terminator glasses are cool too. There is nothing like cheap short-cuts to teach you about expensive mistakes.
First all your an idiot ,fuckin know it all that knows nothing its attached to the same bulkhead that the windless is attached to.and every boat I have owned is glassed down to the botttom of the hull as its your chain locker "not a pan"and its not taking a full load its assiting. Look at new boats Jack they put a fitting thru the deck only with no transfer of load to hull. I know of 2 boats that have done the same mod one sailed around the world and the other across the Atlantic
The anchor locker is completely glassed into the haul of the boat. Along with the headstay. You must not know this boat. It's ok to be ignorant, but not OK to try to scare people.
Yep, chain plate is mounted to a bulkhead where Hunter states it should go where it’s located on other Passage 42 and 420s that do not have running backstays. Our mast specifically indicates the attachment point is meant for the stay.
Dude by the time you finished typing your thesis you probs could have couriered an entire rig to them and saved your blood pressure. Sit back in your arm chair and chill, I’d hate to hear your lecture to kids on road safety.
That’s probably why he said that they were only for a test. It's just to fly that ragged out tri-radial cut jib for a while, you can't expect those grommets punched into what looks like some luff tape to hold for any reasonable amount of time.
Nice job. Now you have a “slutter”. That’s when you an inner forestay to a sloop rig. I don’t know where you attached the upper end, but in your case, if installed more than 3’ below the masthead, you need runners in order to avoid breaking the mast… I’m also very concern about your Sta Lok assembly. Their instructions are usually very clear.. no matter the wire diameter, on Sta Loks the end of the core should protrude just 1/8” from the wedge, not 10 or 8mm out. This way, it would have been imposible to thread the terminal all the way in, which in your case, you did, which is scary.. there are two things that goes inside the terminal. the former and the wedge.. that makes me think that that terminal was missing the internal former, so the terminal assembly might be compromised….. look it out in google…. I’m thinking that someone explained you how to assemble that terminal with a different manufacturers instructions (Norseman)..Also, you should put some sealant around the new chainplate slot before installing and tightening the cover plate..
The “wedge” is the part that slides onto the core and the “former” is in the base of the female part of the fitting. It must be in place (and usually comes that way) because the outer wires were all bent inward evenly after the dry fit, otherwise the wires would have been a bendy mess. But still assembled wrong as you pointed out.
@@erictpg you are totally right. I made a mess with those names. Will edit the comment.. I have seen terminals assembled without the former, and the bends end up ok, so we can expect anything!
"Also, you should put some sealant around the new chainplate slot before installing and tightening the cover plate" I was concerned about that as well. If it were me, I certainly would have applied sealant around that slot. It looks like an almost guaranteed point of water intrusion without it.
You two did a very nice job on the video. It's come up on a FaceBook group about rigging with a fair amount of concern expressed. The concern is that it looks like you mounted the chain plate to a not-exactly-structural chain locker rather than a bulkhead per se. How did you decide where exactly to mount the chain plate?
I mean for the inner core of the 1x19 on the cone of the sta-lok. I have the same boat as you and have plans to do the inner forestry as well. You did an awesome job. I plan on sheeting to the coaming with a cheek block at the forward curve of the cockpit. Accessible through the vents.
That’s awesome! You’ll have to share with us how it went. Here’s a link to the drawing www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Model-Information/42%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Hunter_%20Passage%201990-1998%20x/Pass.%2042%20Inner%20Stay%20Chain%20Plate.pdf
Hey guys! Thanks for your concern and recommendations. Don’t worry, this point we’re only using the innerstay as an additional support without it carrying any load and testing the idea of a hanked on storm sail. The used sail we found is mainly going to be a back up onboard but happened to also be good test size for a staysail.
I really love you guys and your attitudes toward life! I'm a 57 year old married guy who dreams of buying a 38ft to 46ft center cabin Hunter sailboat, used of course! I just wanted to say thank you for your videos and all the efforts they take!
Not saying it’s a bad idea but it Looks like a toe buster to me. 😮
Niiiiiice measurement and nice work 🎉 The only thing I would do differently is I would have added a bead along the entire deck plate, not just the screws. Our used butyl tape. Something to keep water out. ✨🌊💨⛵️🏝👙✨
Glad your 42 has a back stay. Makes for a better platform for a stasail. You won’t be disappointed. Run som fairleads for the running rigging aside from the Jibsail and you will have a formidable cutter!
Nice job, as usual. Just so you know. They use brass piston hanks so they dont wear the stay. The brass is basically sacrificial and can need replacing. But I doubt the SS on SS will be a concern for you. Good luck.
I dub the "the toe breaker"
😆 my exact thought!
Very cool video
If your clips are stainless they can wear your cable that's also stainless.
Be careful.
Nice work nothing like making something stronger and safer safe passages Cheers from Ontario
Thanks Chris 😊
Overall great communication and excellent job triple-checking your work.
Nice job, well done, cheers
don't forget to install running back stays to compensate for the loads created by the inner for stay
Umm. I don’t think so Inner forstay only stops mast pumping . You def don’t want running back stays on a cruising yacht and they are only for rigs where the mainsail is too big with roach to pass the fixed back stay during a tack or gybe
I do enjoy the Travis projects!
Good job Travis!
Nice job well done
Not sure how far behind you post video's, but Sailing Atticus is about to cross the Atlantis as well. Maybe a thought to tag along if possible. Strength in numbers and all that. Good luck you two. Good winds and fair seas.
Awesome job mate. Vary professional 👍
Well done sir! I was thinking for finding the right location for the holes, with the chain plate in place, you could have put a bright light in the anchor locker and marked the holes in the V-berth. You got it done and of course that is the important part.
good idea! thank you!
Good job 👍 you two are getting more experience and confidence,I be been watching you ever since you started your channel.I wouldn’t tighten that too tight as it just put more strain on the deck and the mast also be sure put safety rings in the turnbuckle so it don’t come apart or fall overboard.if you get a chance try a smaller headsail you will be surprised as it may outperform your 130.
My hole boat is put together with those cable ends and it was out in the gulf of Mexico during hurricane 🌀 Irma a cat 5 hurricane. Those ends if installed right are stronger than prest on ends. The rest of my boat got messed up but the rig was fine. Nice job putting your new stay up. Looks good.
Yikes! Glad to hear your rig was ok. Thank you!
I just found your channel recently. Very nice job on the upgrade.
Welcome! Thanks very much😀
Great video! Perhaps we will see you in Horta, preparing for our crossing too.
Fair winds! ⛵️
Nice to see you in SXM back in April. Stoked you got that together yourselves, I am sure you will enjoy sailing with it. When running both head sails on Gizmo we trim the genoa 1st, then the staysl. Sheet the staysl in and out to see how it changes your genoa trim.
We run ours from 65-70 AWA through 115-ish AWA with the genoa. Your mileage may vary! Fair winds :)
Gizmo crew
We saw Gizmo like the first day we got there back at the end of January so we were glad to actually see you again before we left there! Hope to cross paths again and fair winds to Gizmo and the crew!
Great Idea ! Cutters are the best offshore. You need to tie that chain plate to the hull some how , the deck will pull up when the wind gets up and thats when you will use that sail . Also how are you supporting the forward pull on the mast from the inner forestay ? Are you adding runners? The swept back spreader are not designed to support that kind of load .
It is a B&R rig so it does not need running backs.
@@davidstaceysvcalypso1103 it’s actually a mast head rig with swept back spreaders and a conventional back stay B &R rigs don’t have a back stay . Regardless the inner forstay will need to be supported or it will just pull the mast forward . Getting any tension on that stay will be difficult without runners .
You are wrong. This was hunters first attempt at a B&R rig. This is a discontinuous rig with reverse diagonals that will hold tension on the inner forestay. They added the backstay as the swept back spreaders were not long enough to support the rig under extreme loads.
@@davidstaceysvcalypso1103 there is no upper forward facing diamond . The inner forstay was just put there to help support a lighter mast section , there is some mention of runners in the rig manual
Metal on metal may be an issue, also some of those carabiners (snap hooks) are not very strong. I assume you looked at their specs. Overall I was very impressed with your workmanship and explanation of the process. One more thing, to break apart that joint you will likely need heat now, as red locktite is like super glue for threads. I am excited for both of you. Nice job !
He only put a drop ..so no it will come undone without heat ,speaking purely from 40 years as a millwright using it everyday
Your friend did an excellent job producing it. Hope you used some epoxy at the top and sikkaflex to fix it. Now running backstays😊 Chainplate was well made.
Stormsail is not a staysail.
Job well done
!!!!!
Thanks! For our particular rig, we don’t need running backstays as per the manufacturer
Sam Holmes Sailing seems to cut holes any chance he gets.....great planning nice job u are hired
piston hanks are better but for budget build its great!
Agreed! But for the price of this sail and as a back up (that we ended up not even using yet 😅) it worked out alright!
This could be Part 1 of “Rig failure at sea”
It looks like you are using a Sta-Lok fitting, and in Step 4. Of the instructions it clearly states “Ensure approx. 1/8″ (2-3mm) of the central core protrudes from the end of the wedge”. You used 8-10mm, that 200% over the maximum stick-out allowed. If not Sta-Lok then disregard.
At 18:12 in the video it clearly shows an initial crimp with improper crown form and outer wires not conforming to the short part of the wedge. (compare it to the pic on the package or the onlines).
Before re-rigging my boat with Sta-Lok fittings I did what they call “research” and spoke with the regional factory representative (not a sales person or retailer) about assembly. They do NOT recommend ANY thread locking compound, in fact they recommend (and apply at the factory) Tef-Gel, an anti-corrosion/ anti-galling compound. All that thread-lock talk is hearsay and good idea fairy mumbo-jumbo. (Yes, before you break any fingers typing, including roller furlers, I asked specifically.)
As mentioned in other comments, all rigging needs to be properly secured to a structural part of the boat not just the anchor locker drain pan (not to mention bonding wire for lightning to pass). Would really like to see what is holding the top of the inner forestay? I know you said the mast was already rigged for this, but is it a proper tang meant for purpose or is it an attachment point for a block to support a downwind pole? An inner forestay is where you would fly a storm staysail in strong weather and should be rock solid.
Speaking of the top of the inner forestay, what is opposing the forward force created by the sail? As the old rigging analogy of pasta goes, if a mast (dried spaghetti), is supported at the base and top, then a force is applied to the middle by pulling, it will break without opposing support.
Anyone that comments “good job” or “nice work” is either just being false nice, trolling you waiting for the disaster, or is ignorant about rigging and just like things that look pretty and shiny.
If you ever have an insurance claim on this boat due to a rig failure, make sure to delete this episode before they get hold of it and use it as evidence to not pay.
There should be a disclaimer on the video about being for “entertainment purposes only, and people looking to safely sail across oceans should do their own research and look elsewhere for accurate information”.
All that being said, it sure is pretty and shiny. The terminator glasses are cool too.
There is nothing like cheap short-cuts to teach you about expensive mistakes.
First all your an idiot ,fuckin know it all that knows nothing its attached to the same bulkhead that the windless is attached to.and every boat I have owned is glassed down to the botttom of the hull as its your chain locker "not a pan"and its not taking a full load its assiting. Look at new boats Jack they put a fitting thru the deck only with no transfer of load to hull. I know of 2 boats that have done the same mod one sailed around the world and the other across the Atlantic
The anchor locker is completely glassed into the haul of the boat. Along with the headstay. You must not know this boat. It's ok to be ignorant, but not OK to try to scare people.
Yep, chain plate is mounted to a bulkhead where Hunter states it should go where it’s located on other Passage 42 and 420s that do not have running backstays. Our mast specifically indicates the attachment point is meant for the stay.
Dude by the time you finished typing your thesis you probs could have couriered an entire rig to them and saved your blood pressure. Sit back in your arm chair and chill, I’d hate to hear your lecture to kids on road safety.
Almost 22 k
Dont cheap out on the hanks!!
That’s probably why he said that they were only for a test. It's just to fly that ragged out tri-radial cut jib for a while, you can't expect those grommets punched into what looks like some luff tape to hold for any reasonable amount of time.
Just curious why you didn’t use dyneema to a halyard instead of the cable?
It crossed our mind but we just preferred a steel cable.
great job , looks factory . On another note do you know who makes the portlights you have in your solan ?
Thank you! The port lights are Lewmar Atlantic
@@SailingJibsea THANKS
Nice job. Now you have a “slutter”. That’s when you an inner forestay to a sloop rig. I don’t know where you attached the upper end, but in your case, if installed more than 3’ below the masthead, you need runners in order to avoid breaking the mast…
I’m also very concern about your Sta Lok assembly. Their instructions are usually very clear.. no matter the wire diameter, on Sta Loks the end of the core should protrude just 1/8” from the wedge, not 10 or 8mm out. This way, it would have been imposible to thread the terminal all the way in, which in your case, you did, which is scary.. there are two things that goes inside the terminal. the former and the wedge.. that makes me think that that terminal was missing the internal former, so the terminal assembly might be compromised….. look it out in google…. I’m thinking that someone explained you how to assemble that terminal with a different manufacturers instructions (Norseman)..Also, you should put some sealant around the new chainplate slot before installing and tightening the cover plate..
The “wedge” is the part that slides onto the core and the “former” is in the base of the female part of the fitting. It must be in place (and usually comes that way) because the outer wires were all bent inward evenly after the dry fit, otherwise the wires would have been a bendy mess. But still assembled wrong as you pointed out.
@@erictpg you are totally right. I made a mess with those names. Will edit the comment.. I have seen terminals assembled without the former, and the bends end up ok, so we can expect anything!
"Also, you should put some sealant around the new chainplate slot before installing and tightening the cover plate"
I was concerned about that as well. If it were me, I certainly would have applied sealant around that slot. It looks like an almost guaranteed point of water intrusion without it.
Look at that sexy blue cutter right behind you! Sweet. 😜😜
You two did a very nice job on the video. It's come up on a FaceBook group about rigging with a fair amount of concern expressed. The concern is that it looks like you mounted the chain plate to a not-exactly-structural chain locker rather than a bulkhead per se. How did you decide where exactly to mount the chain plate?
It is mounted to a bulk head and is mounted where it is on other Hunter Passage 42s we’ve seen with an innerstay
Thanks. Excellent.
Is there any way I can get the drawing for the chain plate from you? It supposed to be 3mm.
I mean for the inner core of the 1x19 on the cone of the sta-lok. I have the same boat as you and have plans to do the inner forestry as well. You did an awesome job. I plan on sheeting to the coaming with a cheek block at the forward curve of the cockpit. Accessible through the vents.
That’s awesome! You’ll have to share with us how it went. Here’s a link to the drawing
www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Model-Information/42%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Hunter_%20Passage%201990-1998%20x/Pass.%2042%20Inner%20Stay%20Chain%20Plate.pdf
Are those snap hooks aluminum or stainless?
316 stainless
I wouldn’t trust those cheap hooks for a minute, there’s nothing to hold the gate closed. Do yourself a favour and buy proper hanks.
Show more of Steph and less of the tricycle boy!