I've been following you for a while along with others on the tube that you associate with and note your interest and ability to actually diagnose & repair the issue without just shotgunning parts at it. You applied some "Yankee thrifty ingenuity", "farmer repairs", and if you will "Russian Repairs", though the Russians we have in my neck of the woods have a thicker accent and tend to hack or butcher a repair for the lack of tools and/or proper experience. I am a remanufactuer of auto parts in the Southeast and after 33 years I'm tiring from dealing with parts changers and chinese competition. You did the repair in a manner that I would have approached it though for the sake of mention, the pitting on the shaft could be addressed with a variety of materials offered today that would level and fill the low spots to maintain that "slip fit" though relative to time and tools. The housing is not surprisingly only aluminum and without a bronze bushing anymore. What I can tell you from inside knowledge and experience of remanufacturing is though that replacement unit from Cardone is believed to be reman it is actually a new chinese PoS in a reman box. This is classic Cardone tactics going on well over 15 years now. Other remanufacturers in the industry, many now defunct, did similar as a matter of first, availability of rebuildable cores, and secondly cost ratio versus a new copy if one were available. I have A LOT of background and knowledge of the chinese offerings over my 3+ decades in the reman industry and know that often the same parts come from the same factory but in a different box. That motor likely is no different than a Dorman PoS since they buy items boxed rather than make items. You know how private labeling works. China is the king of bootlegs and counterfeits. The clue you gave was the mounting bracket lacking the notches for the rubber insulator grommets. No surprise. The punch operation certainly could have cut the notches from the stamping and an extra $0.60 could have been spent to offer new grommets, but that is a chinese copy not a reman. The biggest issue is what you pointed out, the shaft suffers damage in your climate more than ours, and the cost to salvage it may not work. The aluminum housing in most cases would be wallowed out or even cracked from corrosion buildup as I have often seen from parts up North. Then you have to get a casting made or mill & re-bush the old housing, all while paying skilled labor and overhead to do so. The option? Save what you can and go to china and find a copy or get one made that's "close" enough to either make the sale or get a good core. In my part line Cardone didn't repair certain components as we did. They would buy all the good cores and just run through them until none were left. Then they would get a copy made in china and send it out in a reman marked box in order to hopefully get a good core back to balance things out. The installer was none the wiser and they assumed the part was a remanufactured original part. That might have worked had the chinese copy been a good copy but they never are. And then the s@#t storm hit where Cardone and the other large rebuilders burned themselves with junk parts made in china souring the old Cardone name and lumping the industry all together. We did our damnedest to let our customers know why we're better than the rest, but it didn't matter the damage was done. Remember Eric O. of SMA saying remanufactured parts or "junk". Oh and the chinese new parts, now called aftermarket to soften the fact they are made in a Communist country, well he says they suck too! What do you do then? Oh you use OEM parts from the dealer? They are on national backorder when they too have a run of poorly designed parts. Well the consumer and the installers got what they asked for...... cheap prices and parts quickly so they can turn more repair tickets in a day without concern for the collateral damage. They and china eat while the skilled American remanufacturers in this country will starve. I remember the past years at the trade show seeing the Cardone family walking the floors in there suits looking like the mob and we looked up to them to hopefully be them or get swallowed up by them and cash out, but look what has happened. The parts store chains and warehouse distributors went directly to china and that's all that's offered. Throw your original part away and get a "new" one that's the American way! Keep up the good work PHAD!
Jon, thank you for taking the time to write such a great informative comment! It's sad that sometimes even the OEM dealer parts look and feel like cheap knock offs. The only alternative left is the junkyard or Ebay!!
@canuckguy worried China builds whatever quality level the customer orders, American Companies are ordering lower quality parts, which cost less to have China to build. Dont blame China..They build a great I-Phone, because they are paid to do so. American Companies are trying to cash in on low build quality, even if 10 out of 100 fail, they are still in the money. Capitalism run amuck.
@@charlesmiller5078 I have a friend who contracts to have his widgets built in China. What you say is true to an extent. For instance, he went over there, had them build some samples. He approved them, then when he got the actual production order it was all junk (which he still had to pay shipping and tariffs on even though all he could do is crush them -- oh and he had to also pay to do that and landfill them). So he went back and talked to the shift supervisor and made sure that they knew exactly how they were to be built and he watched the first run to make sure it was done right. So he goes home, and when he gets his next order, 2/3rds of them are junk! Why? Because they run THREE SHIFTS!!! So the one shift supervisor couldn't communicate to the other shift supervisors how the widgets were to be made. This Tomfuckery caused him to lose his distribution contract so he had to eat the whole thing. Generally dealing with China is a losing proposition. Now looking at what they're doing with all the lies about this virus. Nixon/Kissinger embraced the concept that if we just traded with our enemies we'd reform them over to capitalism and become friends. I think that's mostly a failed concept especially WRT China. It seems better to embargo the shit out of them until their people revolt and put in a better, more honest, government.
Jon, most of your analysis is right on, until you started talking about cheap Chinese parts. China has the ability to produce any quality very cost effectively as per customer's demands. The customers are mostly US corporations who get greedier and greedier. Do not blame China for making junk, they are asked to make it by the American customers. Cessna, Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Apple, walmart and many others get their units or parts made in China because the American executives wants to maximize their profits, and US govt. allows them, they do not care if the American factories are closing down due to their greed. On the other hand we should so give due credit to China for their ability to produce parts at current price and scale. The predator 13 hp harbour freigbt engine sold for $370 can be picked up from the same factory in China for $160 if you buy a skid and they will private label for you, those engines are reported to last equal or better than a similar Honda which retails for $600.
Ivan, I was yelling through the computer, " THE SHAFT IS JUST RUSTED!" I had a similar issue with a 98 Honda CRV. Cleaned the rust, re-lubed, assembled and SUCCESS!
CustomerService: When deciding to repair old part or install new part. It is absolutely best to discuss the situation with the customer and let them make the decision.
when I was younger back in the 1970's I had a 55 buick. I also got a shop manual for it. What I was amazed is that it showed how to repair almost everything on the car with raw materials (gasket materials, copper wire, hoses, etc...). This is what has gone wrong with America (and most of the rest of the world) IMO. The factories have encouraged parts changing so that all the wealth trickles up to them at the top. Back earlier in the automotive industry they didn't have that mentality. They just wanted you to be able to fix your car and keep it running, probably because many people went to their mechanic for advise on what car to buy and he naturally would tell them the one that he could keep running the easiest and most reliably while making the lion's share of the profits for himself. I constantly do "Russian repairs" on my stuff. I recently had to do a starter on a Chrysler 2.7 (which is a total bear to remove). The reman part at the local store was $250 (which I didn't trust). So I went to the junk yard and got one there. Turns out it had been full of water (so was full of rust). I took what good parts I could from that (e.g. brushes) and what good parts I could from mine (e.g. rotor, brush holder) and combined them and put it back in. Took me a couple hours and probably cost me like $20. Now it works well and I feel I can trust it. I would NOT want to have to effectuate this repair out along side the highway somewhere (nor pay some remote garage I towed it to to do a sub-optimal repair using crap parts).
Always up to the customer. Many times a self repaired OE part is better than a reman part and pretty much always better than a cheap aftermarket part. I did a Russian repair on my rear wiper motor a few years ago, the contact fingers for the park cam had corroded due to leaking shaft seal. I soldered in some contacts from an octal-base relay! That lasted 3 years ~ 75,000 miles and late last year failed again so I Replaced it with OEM but not dealer. Oh, and please replace the capacitor in your bench grinder Ivan!
Get rid of the need for a cap just convert to 220 single phase,many of these grinders are either/or 110,220,you just have to redo the input and run 220 to the outlet.
Another cool and relaxed vid Ivan, thanks. Mr O. of South Main Auto keeps making me jump whenever he shouts "WHOOOOOOOAAAAH" when he drops/breaks somethin!! Not good for my blood pressure. ;-) All the best for you and your family and look forward to your next diagnostic challenge.
I had that problem on my junk hyundai. I could not even get the nut off or even move the wiper with it in. Mine was drawing about 4 amps. The next day after soaking with penatrating fluid I could help the wiper move like yours. So I moved on to Krone in a can. That got the wiper moving by itself and eventually able to wipe a dry screen. To finish off I filled the nut cover with grease. It is still working 4 years later.
for a true Russian repair along this order, one time back in the 80's I had this friend who (against my advise) bought a Fiat sedan. The starter went out on it and there were quite literally NO parts available anywhere I could find (as Fiat had just shut down their electrical distribution to North America). I pulled the starter apart and found the brushes to be shot. Fortunately I had just rebuilt the starter in my girlfriend's Jeep and I recognized the brushes looked very similar so I went out and bought a new pair of those and ground them down on the grinding wheel to fit. Worked perfectly! (Little did my friend know what a solid I'd done her because she came to me first before shopping the fix around to other mechanics in the area, I'm sure none of which would have even elected to try)
the black discoloration comes from the degradation of the neoprene vibration isolators, although it could be some other formulation of synthetic rubber this effect is common.
Ivan, first off, I like your videos and repairs and I'm subscribed to your channel. i think you do a great job on diag and repair and I usually learn something along the way. That being said, you asked for thoughts. I'm possibly gonna get flamed but, here they are.... 1) Your neighbor needs to start using the rear defrost BEFORE turning on the wiper. Yes the wiper shaft was binding up with rust BUT, the owner sure as heck wasn't doing the motor any favors by NOT clearing the glass of snow. 2) IF you were to attempt to return the new/rebuilt motor to the auto parts store I work at, you would be told "You own it". ESPECIALLY if there was evidence that it was installed. We are NOT in the business of 'triagnostic' supplies, ESPECIALLY on electrical components. I had a customer try to return a battery AFTER I told him to bring his old one in so we could test it for him. (car had been sitting for a few months and he had to jump start it). Nope, he wanted to take a new one 'just in case'. I then told him, BEFORE he paid for it, "He owned it, whether he needed it or not". He said he was pretty sure it was the battery. So I sold it to him. A couple of weeks later he tried to return it. I told him nope, and reminded him of what I said before. A co-worker heard the conversation at time of purchase and backed me up on the whole deal. NOT saying your supplier won't take it back, but you wouldn't get a refund at the store I work at.
Great job Ivan, saving the customer money without sacrificing quality is what every one looks for. I would say you exceeded the customer's expectations. 👍
When you started putting in the new motor I was yelling in my head "no! its not the motor! its corrosion on the shaft!". I was glad to see you got it right, I've had to clean up the wiper motor shaft on our 06 ford explorer 2 times over 10 years of ownership. definitely beats the hell out of a new motor, I couldn't tell you how many people would just throw a new motor assembly on it when it only took 30 minutes of my time to fix. As a customer, I would absolutely be fine with you fixing the old part over buying new. better for me, better for the environment, and the original part is probably better than any aftermarket part anyways.
Yup... My dad was born in Estonia in 1918, he was attending Engineering University in Germany when WWII broke out... He survived the war fixing cars and bicycles, mostly without spare parts and learned to weld professionally as well as eventually getting his master toolmakers certification. To make things even more fun, he supervised a machine shop with a tool and die shop aside when I was learning to fix cars. By now, you might be catching the drift, who needs to buy car parts if you can rebuild them. And with his skills and access to a commercial machine shop, we didn't buy a lot of parts. Watching you fix the wiper reminded me very much of how I learned to do it, except I would have just started out looking for the seized shaft first. When the bushings wear out you don't have much electrical draw, if any and when the windings short the motor smells burnt. So always smell a motor before tearing it apart, it will save you time. As to Russian repairs... My dad worked with a lot of old Russian mechanics during WWII and when we once got stuck by a rusted and seized nut and bolt... he told me we had to "Russian Wrench" the bolt out. He came out of his shop with a hand sledge hammer and a cold chisel. A few taps later the stuck fastener was no more and the metal surfaces it held together were still perfect. He told me the procedure was developed by master Russian mechanics over years because of actual tool shortages... he even used the hammer and chisel method to loosen rounded off bolts... I know that many modern mechanics might consider these methods barbarian.. but watching someone who could operate a hammer and chisel with such precision was actually impressive.... Knowing the technique, I still use "Russian Wrenching" as a last resort... but I've always wondered if it's still taught or used by Russian mechanics, or if it's a lost art.
Nice! I visited my cousin a few years ago. He lives in a Siberian village but drives an old Mercedes. I watched him change out control arm bushings on his wife's old Honda wagon in a matter of minutes with two sledge hammers and a board. No damage to the parts whatsoever. Who needs a press or bushing removal kit?!? :)
I’m with you Ivan I’d rather make more than give it to part store and if I can reman it better then it just makes sense. I give both options to customer and they usually go with what I reccomend. Nice video, thanks for sharing
I would try to rebuild it, I did that with alternators, starters. years ago. Been wrenching on my own junk for 46yrs. I love it when the parts cannon is not used. Poor man`s repairs here...lol Great job Ivan...you make some, customer saves some.....win win. Stay safe.
I do a lot of mobile repairs; the problem is with the stay in place order, I feel a little anxious about traveling all day. I don't want a citation, even though mechanics are still allowed to operate. I'm now so glad I registered my business instead of just winging it on Craigslist
As long as there is no complete lock down, you can not be pulled over just for driving. Officer still needs reasonable suspicion that you have committed a crime, your Constitutional rights. Besides, I thought automotive repair was listed as a necessity? It is here in California.
@@adkancapadventures7738 haha get used to giving up civil liberties for exchange of a false sense of security. Propaganda is problem... reaction... solution. Problem: man made cold. reaction: public freakout. solution: printing money. Who benefits ? Central banking (they are charging interest). We are ruled by a king just as we have always been. Note corona means crown. Bill Gates promoting humam depopulation and vaccines (as a means to depopulation...he even tells us that). Bill from king county Washington where the first and biggest outbreak in usa was (Kirkland washington in king county) king....crown...
at least here in California one is only required to get licensed if one works on vehicles that are "required to be registered" (or motorcycles). CVC 260 shows that that's only vehicles that are primarily used for the "transport" of persons or property for hire making a specific charge therefore. It doesn't say one can only work on unregistered vehicles. So if someone chooses to register a vehicle that isn't required (e.g. they decide to make a donation to the state/police) that's not my fault. I just refuse to work on vehicles that are commercial carriers (e.g. taxis, couriers, heavy trucks, etc...) and I'm still legit even traveling to work on a customer's car. For a cop to interpret the plain black letter law otherwise is an "illegally promulgated underground regulation" and no bueno (e.g. as per Cal. Govt. C. 11340, et seq)
We do work for professional customers, so if a part isn't working we replace it if we have it in stock, if not we try a bodge to make due until the part arrives at the shop.
Yes, I imagine there are completely different constraints and priorities in an industrial environment. Downtime is expensive and replacing parts is quicker than repairing. Also, because of liability considerations you want to stick to new and OEM parts. If something goes wrong you can at least argue that you did everything by the book and according to manufacturer specifications.
@@danp9551 That makes sense, I remember watching on the news a passenger airplane temporarily fixed with some fancy duct tape while they had more time and parts available to complete the repair. It was approved by the manufacturer but didn't stop passengers from taking pictures of the wing all patched up lol
Hi Ivan I think your right. I would rather repair than replace, as we throw to much away just because there are less people in this day and age that don't know how to take something apart and repair it, it is a dyeing art and it shows that you care for your customers, the economy and environment. keep up the good work sir 👍😉
Nice fix, Ivan! You know I love those kinds of fixes. Why spend money when you don't have to? I try to do this whenever possible, and practical. Saves me a trip to the store, saves me and the customer money, and if I order the part online, it saves the waiting for it to arrive. That's a WIN-WIN-WIN in my book. Nice work! 👍🍻 Same over here. I'm still working, but I notice a big slow down in work. My wife, unfortunately is out of work. She's a hairdresser - considered "non-essential". First time in 28 years she's been out of work! We had been planning for something like this for quite some time, so we'll be ok. No buying new tools anytime soon, though. Gotta pay the mortgage and other bills first. Thankfully we didn't buy a mansion 17 years ago, and our newest vehicle is 13 years old. We'll manage. 😉
Good job...I have also found that brass bearings that are suppose to be lube less, actually work better with a drop of 100% synthetic oil. 30 years ago I had a oscillating fan that the motor seized up. I oiled the brass bearings with Mobile 1 5w30 and the motor came back to life. The motor continued to work for the next 30 years until the plastic frame finally collapsed.
Repaired a recirc fan in a freezer thirty years ago too, with a drop of silicone "fuser oil" meant for laser printer platens. Still working perfectly today.
Good fix Ivan. Problem was, that larger exterior rubber seal around the shaft just below the wiper arm allow moisture to seep inside then, it harbored the moisture between it and the second seal that was attached to the motor housing. So, moisture between those two seals AKA steam once the sun hits the window etc. and over the many cycles of that moisture and likely a tad bit of pressure, the water was being pushed into the stem and motor housing sleeve/busing etc. Not only that, two dissimilar metals used so more oxidation happened likely as not enough of and proper grease. I had a similar problem with the "park" feature on a GM wiper motor and figured out the plastic housing cover had lost much of its strength and the plastic "clips" of press in type bosses on that part allowed too much gap from the "cam" and gear assembly which then allowed the park ramp on the nylon gear to be bypassed. So, when turning off the wipers from the wiper switch stopped the wipers in the position they were in vs. allowing the motor to continue until the wipers were in the park position, then stop. Bought a Cardone, only brand available, wiper motor assembly and used the one single part needed vs. spend 4 hours dealing with the wiper transmission assembly to replace the motor. Works perfect now plus, I have a new spare motor if I need it. did all this before the quarantine so keeping the part was easy.
As a customer, I’d insist on new on something that corroded. But, it’s always better for money in the consumer’s hands than on top of the pile of cash many corporations already have. Call me a Keynesian.
Absolutely In that case You did with wiper. Ive done a few times. And they worked for years. So It all depends on how long it was ran like that. And heated that motor up. But you did A test on the windings so It should be Good for years. Great saving..and video. Im a new subscriber. Your close to my old home town..Which is cool...
Nice job Ivan. I guess I would have preferred a new part vs. old part. Looking at what they gave you for a new part I think you did the right thing. A buddy of mine got a remanufactured starter for his Honda ATV and it only lasted about a month. I tore it apart and couldn’t believe what I found. All the magnets that are attached in the case came loose and were just laying inside the case. (Were they glued in or what?!) I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. We ended up putting new brushes in the old starter and sanding the armature to make a clean contact surface. Slapped the old one back together and it’s been working fine for the last 2 years. Unbelievable some of the junk parts they are selling now days.
I always try to repair the part if at all possible and if I have ample time. This brings me more satisfaction than the parts cannon. I'm waiting to come across a failed ECU with a bad MOSFET driver so I can replace the failed component. Always like the Russian repairs......
Same situation happens with most Jap front wiper transmissions, I take em apart put a very small groove in the shaft to hold lube and lasts till customer dumps the vehicle.
Given that you found mechanical resistance to be the cause, I sure would trust the factory motor to outlast the aftermarket reman. I've had a lot of comebacks from aftermarket reman stuff. And just because it's guaranteed for life doesn't mean it's not a guaranteed piece of crap! Fixing what you have is often the best choice. For example: I reseal power Honda steering pumps all the time. An hour of labor plus $20 in o-rings beats the cost of a reman every time.
I agree with you Ivan, the owners shouldn't stress the motors they should always knock and scrape the ice off to prolong the service life of the wiper, that didn't have anything to do with the rust problem but still fit in the cata gory. Thanks Ivan always interesting
As a customer I would appreciate your work over shiny new Chinesium any day of the week. I think most mechanics though would just swap the part and call it a day and would never to the testing you do. Thanks for making this world a better place by rinsing, recycling, reusing, encouraging and teaching others to think outside the box while being the change you want to see.
Thanks for your time and work. Did you happen to scope the 3 signals -voltage, amp draw and ground voltage - once more after reinstalling the overhauled motor? Down here in Mexico actual repair work at component level is more often done than in the so called developed parts of the world. Partially because labour cost and availability. ....but also because people don't suffer from "throw away mentality". It doesn't take a genius to figure out that limited resources don't allow an unlimited supply.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You have a point there. It was great to see the motor waveforms, even if it didn't show the failure directly it lead you to dig deeper. A double lip seal and some good grease might have prevented the failure.
Depends on the nature of the wear on the component. The wiper assembly is a good candidate for repair IMO. Some parts the wear is such that it will fail again. Like you I've taken apart a number of assemblies and found issues that could be repaired, and even in some cases improved from the original manufacturing, like in some cases using a good lube, protecting parts from weather intrusion, etc.
Ivan, you would have loved the 80's and earlier; everything rebuildable. We did bushings, seals, bearings, gaskets, hard parts, etc. in ALL KINDS OF STUFF. We had tranny vises in our bays, and could have a refresher kit from RPM Merit out the door by lunchtime. I hate that today so much is sealed up and disposable, or price of rebuilds so cheap that shops cannot justify selling in-house overhaul at flat rate, instead opting for R&R only.
I think it’s better to rebuild when you can my 2 cents Awesome videos dude Covid is better in Florida we have a good governor that lets us work if we want to
Actually the scope measurements did show the tell tale of very high load on the reciprocating part: You may see the current always dropped to a fraction of the full current (actually to the level it was supposed to be with a good wiper assembly) whenever it went through the direction reverse, where the reciprocating parts do not have to move so does not load the motor. And the small nut is not supposed to hug the shaft, but to hug the o-ring, so to ensure the seal...
What about cost of labor to fix rusted shaft verses cost of the remaned motor? I cleaned rear brake calipers, got them working, and they weren't happy about it because of the cost difference of the remaned calipers. (I don't remember the cost difference.) You just answered this question.
I agree with your assessment. If I could repair the original part without costing the customer more than a reman, I'd opt for the repair provided it will be as good or better than the reman part. Of course the OE part is better quality that the reman anyway. I am seeing a slowdown in work as as you stated people aren't traveling as much so less wear and tear on their vehicles.
Similar situation for me on my Saturn SL2. Wiper pivots seized. Thought the motor was bad. I disassembled the wiper pivots that were rusty. Cleaned them up. I lubed them with anti seize and reassembled them. Worked like a charm.
Working in the dealership we cannot do this unless the part is unavailable or extremely expensive. 2 weeks ago i was allowed to take the push button latch out of the tail gate of a chevy trail blazer and free it up. At home i would normally try to fix something on my own vehicles or doing side jobs with full disclosure if it fails then we will replace the component. As for my shop its very slow, we have 12 guys fighting over 20ish appointments each day. Managers have said nothing to us other than we could clean to get paid shop time... Last week we finished all the internal work to survive, next week it will be interesting. I have a few jobs i'm waiting on parts for such as a 19 impala for a dash harness, has a bad fuse block/bus bar, and it only comes as a harness. A 2009 express that needs a new transmission(Cheaper to replace than rebuild, plus parts availability) and a new equinox 375 miles with a 9 speed transmission that i gotta pull apart, has burnt fluid with metal and clutch materials, the factory messed that one up... I'm probably going to waste my vacation time and do projects around the house and make a paycheck that way... I've been wondering about how Keith is doing being in the epicenter of this whole mess. He hasn't posted a new video in months.
I would rather you replace it, if it was my vehicle. The owner will most likely be back in a year or so because the motor burned out. Enjoy your video. I like that you rebuild a part since many shop are just parts replacement places like the dealerships. I have gone down that road only to replace it later.. All depends upon what part you are rebuilding.
OMG Ivan, OSHA will be at your door tomorrow, no shield on the wire wheel. Happened to me at my first work place after getting out of the Air Force. Not just the regular OEM shield but needed a complete cover on the end, said the inspector.
Hi Ivan ,in this case i think you should have left the reman in place,and gave him the old fixed one as a spare.The shaft with pits is going to have less surface area.lubrication works on surface contact between two usually dissimilar surfaces and grease,oil,or air as the medium that keep the two surfaces from welding or corroding into one.I'm surprised they designed that without a bronze bushing in the alum housing,that's how it's usually done.bronze or oil-lite bushings self lube.Still i enjoyed your disassembly to see the guts and how it failed .thanks
The rebuild of the wiper motor would have been my first option, I just like fixing things; with a 3/4 ton CNC mill and two lathes, plus other tools, including labscope, I'm set. Now also I wonder how long it will be before we have footage of the rebuild of your shop; after the wood burning stove, which is in close proximity to numerous sources of fuel - from a retired Fire/Medic. Best wishes, and stay healthy!
I fixed a rear wiper motor with a similar issue and basically in the same way. This was about 4 years ago. Afaik it is still working. If you should do it or not depends; if you a DIY:er then go for it if you have the time to spare. If you are a professional mechanic, then you should consider what is best for the customer and consult with your customer.
The rear wiper on my 2011 Outback started acting up, sounded like a sad puppy. I “fixed” it by disassembly of the drive gears and cleaning and lubricating the gears with lithium grease and silicone grease on the rubber seals. It’s been happy for three years now. Edit: Same fix
I don't mind doing a repair verses a replacement, when it makes sense. I do like your videos and your interest in truly root causing failures. With this particular repair, and because you asked for feedback, I didn't agree with the ultimate decision to repair, simply because how you got there. First, you returned an electrical part after it was installed, which no part supplier allows, as far as I know. Second, and to me more important, you used the new part (reman to be particular) to help you diagnose the root cause, then returned it. That's just my opinion, but you asked. Keep up the great videos.
Agreed Ron, this definitely wasn't my standard procedure. Just wanted to have the new part on hand so repair would go quickly. Definitely learned that there is more than meets the eye when it comes to sluggish electrical motors 🙂
Be interested to see what the scanner says about the fixed part. If the voltage/current/ground numbers all come in good stay with the repaired oem. Sometimes after an extended period of malfunction the motor gets semi-toasted and may have reduced further life.
Many times the part(s) replacement (i.e. "parts cannon") is cheaper than the labor that it takes to repair the old broken device. Especially when the diagnostic labor is added. That is probably why dealership shops go the "parts cannon" route and hope and roll the dice that it would fix the problem.
I thought you were working full time for that company that did some kind of data sensor installs or something like that and this was side work type stuff, did the other company move or something?
To answer your question, as a customer which option costs less. These days labor rates usually far exceed the part cost. So if it cost are the same then I’ll go with the new part. If rebuilding with an hour of labor charge is less then a quick swap then rebuild it is.
Great video, Ivan? Do you know where I can get a wiring diagram on a 2007 Ford ranger 2.3 liter cruise control, color coded. Squirrels damaged. I have soldered the wires back together, but 3 extra wires don't have any where to go. Any help is appreciated on tracing the wires. If I were in State College you would be a person I would seek. Thanks if you help me find a diagram.
FYI: Some parts houses have really frowned on using their electrical parts for diagnosis. In other words, if they could see tiny scratches on the connector where you'd plugged it in, they wouldn't take it back. So best to dismantle the old part and try and figure out what's wrong with it first. If you're inclined to do swaptronics with it, do it with a junkyard part (and hope to god they both didn't just fail the exact same way -- which is fairly common).
Oem part always better option. Marine grease excellent choice. Motor commutators look very healthy and ready to go. $150 with labour is a hefty unnecessary bill when the original device can be refurbished like new. Job well done.
Ivan, Great video, analysis, and repair. I love Russian repairs! My only question is a lot of auto parts stores have a 'no return on electrical parts' policy. Perhaps your supplier exempts you. God bless Paul (in MA) BTW Cardone is pretty much the same quality as Dorman. BTW2 The rear wiper in my 2002 Focus wagon still works fine LOL
3.28.20. Ivan if the Armature had shorted windings, you would’ve most likely been blowing fuses in that circuit......... The resistance check for shorted windings is not gonna show up with a regular multi meter. I like your investigative mind, not just satisfied with the repair but finding out what the root cause was. That is what distinguishes a true dedicated technician from a parts changer. 🚗
Thank you for the kind words Steven! I think that the body unit was smart enough to limit the current to 5amps and save the motor and the fuses. There's a reason why that feed voltage was down to 10 Volts!
I've been following you for a while along with others on the tube that you associate with and note your interest and ability to actually diagnose & repair the issue without just shotgunning parts at it. You applied some "Yankee thrifty ingenuity", "farmer repairs", and if you will "Russian Repairs", though the Russians we have in my neck of the woods have a thicker accent and tend to hack or butcher a repair for the lack of tools and/or proper experience. I am a remanufactuer of auto parts in the Southeast and after 33 years I'm tiring from dealing with parts changers and chinese competition. You did the repair in a manner that I would have approached it though for the sake of mention, the pitting on the shaft could be addressed with a variety of materials offered today that would level and fill the low spots to maintain that "slip fit" though relative to time and tools. The housing is not surprisingly only aluminum and without a bronze bushing anymore. What I can tell you from inside knowledge and experience of remanufacturing is though that replacement unit from Cardone is believed to be reman it is actually a new chinese PoS in a reman box. This is classic Cardone tactics going on well over 15 years now. Other remanufacturers in the industry, many now defunct, did similar as a matter of first, availability of rebuildable cores, and secondly cost ratio versus a new copy if one were available. I have A LOT of background and knowledge of the chinese offerings over my 3+ decades in the reman industry and know that often the same parts come from the same factory but in a different box. That motor likely is no different than a Dorman PoS since they buy items boxed rather than make items. You know how private labeling works. China is the king of bootlegs and counterfeits. The clue you gave was the mounting bracket lacking the notches for the rubber insulator grommets. No surprise. The punch operation certainly could have cut the notches from the stamping and an extra $0.60 could have been spent to offer new grommets, but that is a chinese copy not a reman. The biggest issue is what you pointed out, the shaft suffers damage in your climate more than ours, and the cost to salvage it may not work. The aluminum housing in most cases would be wallowed out or even cracked from corrosion buildup as I have often seen from parts up North. Then you have to get a casting made or mill & re-bush the old housing, all while paying skilled labor and overhead to do so. The option? Save what you can and go to china and find a copy or get one made that's "close" enough to either make the sale or get a good core. In my part line Cardone didn't repair certain components as we did. They would buy all the good cores and just run through them until none were left. Then they would get a copy made in china and send it out in a reman marked box in order to hopefully get a good core back to balance things out. The installer was none the wiser and they assumed the part was a remanufactured original part. That might have worked had the chinese copy been a good copy but they never are. And then the s@#t storm hit where Cardone and the other large rebuilders burned themselves with junk parts made in china souring the old Cardone name and lumping the industry all together. We did our damnedest to let our customers know why we're better than the rest, but it didn't matter the damage was done. Remember Eric O. of SMA saying remanufactured parts or "junk". Oh and the chinese new parts, now called aftermarket to soften the fact they are made in a Communist country, well he says they suck too! What do you do then? Oh you use OEM parts from the dealer? They are on national backorder when they too have a run of poorly designed parts. Well the consumer and the installers got what they asked for...... cheap prices and parts quickly so they can turn more repair tickets in a day without concern for the collateral damage. They and china eat while the skilled American remanufacturers in this country will starve. I remember the past years at the trade show seeing the Cardone family walking the floors in there suits looking like the mob and we looked up to them to hopefully be them or get swallowed up by them and cash out, but look what has happened. The parts store chains and warehouse distributors went directly to china and that's all that's offered. Throw your original part away and get a "new" one that's the American way! Keep up the good work PHAD!
Jon, thank you for taking the time to write such a great informative comment! It's sad that sometimes even the OEM dealer parts look and feel like cheap knock offs. The only alternative left is the junkyard or Ebay!!
Yes, Jon, thanks for the insight!
I see you don't have any videos. Sounds like you might have a bit for checking content.
@canuckguy worried China builds whatever quality level the customer orders, American Companies are ordering lower quality parts, which cost less to have China to build. Dont blame China..They build a great I-Phone, because they are paid to do so. American Companies are trying to cash in on low build quality, even if 10 out of 100 fail, they are still in the money. Capitalism run amuck.
@@charlesmiller5078 I have a friend who contracts to have his widgets built in China. What you say is true to an extent. For instance, he went over there, had them build some samples. He approved them, then when he got the actual production order it was all junk (which he still had to pay shipping and tariffs on even though all he could do is crush them -- oh and he had to also pay to do that and landfill them). So he went back and talked to the shift supervisor and made sure that they knew exactly how they were to be built and he watched the first run to make sure it was done right. So he goes home, and when he gets his next order, 2/3rds of them are junk! Why? Because they run THREE SHIFTS!!! So the one shift supervisor couldn't communicate to the other shift supervisors how the widgets were to be made. This Tomfuckery caused him to lose his distribution contract so he had to eat the whole thing. Generally dealing with China is a losing proposition. Now looking at what they're doing with all the lies about this virus. Nixon/Kissinger embraced the concept that if we just traded with our enemies we'd reform them over to capitalism and become friends. I think that's mostly a failed concept especially WRT China. It seems better to embargo the shit out of them until their people revolt and put in a better, more honest, government.
Jon, most of your analysis is right on, until you started talking about cheap Chinese parts. China has the ability to produce any quality very cost effectively as per customer's demands. The customers are mostly US corporations who get greedier and greedier. Do not blame China for making junk, they are asked to make it by the American customers. Cessna, Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Apple, walmart and many others get their units or parts made in China because the American executives wants to maximize their profits, and US govt. allows them, they do not care if the American factories are closing down due to their greed. On the other hand we should so give due credit to China for their ability to produce parts at current price and scale. The predator 13 hp harbour freigbt engine sold for $370 can be picked up from the same factory in China for $160 if you buy a skid and they will private label for you, those engines are reported to last equal or better than a similar Honda which retails for $600.
Ivan, I was yelling through the computer, " THE SHAFT IS JUST RUSTED!" I had a similar issue with a 98 Honda CRV. Cleaned the rust, re-lubed, assembled and SUCCESS!
CustomerService: When deciding to repair old part or install new part. It is absolutely best to discuss the situation with the customer and let them make the decision.
when I was younger back in the 1970's I had a 55 buick. I also got a shop manual for it. What I was amazed is that it showed how to repair almost everything on the car with raw materials (gasket materials, copper wire, hoses, etc...). This is what has gone wrong with America (and most of the rest of the world) IMO. The factories have encouraged parts changing so that all the wealth trickles up to them at the top. Back earlier in the automotive industry they didn't have that mentality. They just wanted you to be able to fix your car and keep it running, probably because many people went to their mechanic for advise on what car to buy and he naturally would tell them the one that he could keep running the easiest and most reliably while making the lion's share of the profits for himself.
I constantly do "Russian repairs" on my stuff. I recently had to do a starter on a Chrysler 2.7 (which is a total bear to remove). The reman part at the local store was $250 (which I didn't trust). So I went to the junk yard and got one there. Turns out it had been full of water (so was full of rust). I took what good parts I could from that (e.g. brushes) and what good parts I could from mine (e.g. rotor, brush holder) and combined them and put it back in. Took me a couple hours and probably cost me like $20. Now it works well and I feel I can trust it. I would NOT want to have to effectuate this repair out along side the highway somewhere (nor pay some remote garage I towed it to to do a sub-optimal repair using crap parts).
You're up early! Thanks Ivan for all your vids and the great attitude!
Always up to the customer.
Many times a self repaired OE part is better than a reman part and pretty much always better than a cheap aftermarket part.
I did a Russian repair on my rear wiper motor a few years ago, the contact fingers for the park cam had corroded due to leaking shaft seal. I soldered in some contacts from an octal-base relay!
That lasted 3 years ~ 75,000 miles and late last year failed again so I
Replaced it with OEM but not dealer.
Oh, and please replace the capacitor in your bench grinder Ivan!
Get rid of the need for a cap just convert to 220 single phase,many of these grinders are either/or 110,220,you just have to redo the input and run 220 to the outlet.
that grinder starts up extra slow :D
I worked that out many years ago. The only exception is when materials like plastic have changed.
As always I like listening to your thought process. Whether it is right or wrong.
Another cool and relaxed vid Ivan, thanks. Mr O. of South Main Auto keeps making me jump whenever he shouts "WHOOOOOOOAAAAH" when he drops/breaks somethin!! Not good for my blood pressure. ;-) All the best for you and your family and look forward to your next diagnostic challenge.
I had that problem on my junk hyundai. I could not even get the nut off or even move the wiper with it in. Mine was drawing about 4 amps. The next day after soaking with penatrating fluid I could help the wiper move like yours. So I moved on to Krone in a can. That got the wiper moving by itself and eventually able to wipe a dry screen. To finish off I filled the nut cover with grease. It is still working 4 years later.
Saving money is part of economy stimulation, great repair as always!
Ivan: water will never get in there.
Water: hold my beer....
Lololol.... I have tears in my eyes !!
Great job as always Ivan.
Fantastic work. As long as you return the part in its original packaging, I applaud this approach. The parts store will survive.
for a true Russian repair along this order, one time back in the 80's I had this friend who (against my advise) bought a Fiat sedan. The starter went out on it and there were quite literally NO parts available anywhere I could find (as Fiat had just shut down their electrical distribution to North America). I pulled the starter apart and found the brushes to be shot. Fortunately I had just rebuilt the starter in my girlfriend's Jeep and I recognized the brushes looked very similar so I went out and bought a new pair of those and ground them down on the grinding wheel to fit. Worked perfectly! (Little did my friend know what a solid I'd done her because she came to me first before shopping the fix around to other mechanics in the area, I'm sure none of which would have even elected to try)
Good caption, you’re doing your part for this time of epidemic.
Good job Ivan! Keep safe.
the black discoloration comes from the degradation of the neoprene vibration isolators, although it could be some other formulation of synthetic rubber this effect is common.
Love squiggly lines 👍.
Great demonstration of motor failure.
Stay safe all and thanks for sharing.
Definitely rebuild where possible! Great job, Ivan!
Ivan, first off, I like your videos and repairs and I'm subscribed to your channel. i think you do a great job on diag and repair and I usually learn something along the way.
That being said, you asked for thoughts. I'm possibly gonna get flamed but, here they are....
1) Your neighbor needs to start using the rear defrost BEFORE turning on the wiper. Yes the wiper shaft was binding up with rust BUT, the owner sure as heck wasn't doing the motor any favors by NOT clearing the glass of snow.
2) IF you were to attempt to return the new/rebuilt motor to the auto parts store I work at, you would be told "You own it". ESPECIALLY if there was evidence that it was installed. We are NOT in the business of 'triagnostic' supplies, ESPECIALLY on electrical components.
I had a customer try to return a battery AFTER I told him to bring his old one in so we could test it for him. (car had been sitting for a few months and he had to jump start it). Nope, he wanted to take a new one 'just in case'. I then told him, BEFORE he paid for it, "He owned it, whether he needed it or not". He said he was pretty sure it was the battery. So I sold it to him.
A couple of weeks later he tried to return it. I told him nope, and reminded him of what I said before. A co-worker heard the conversation at time of purchase and backed me up on the whole deal.
NOT saying your supplier won't take it back, but you wouldn't get a refund at the store I work at.
Excellent video. Was on edge waiting for you to say .... "There's your problem lady!!"
Great job Ivan, saving the customer money without sacrificing quality is what every one looks for. I would say you exceeded the customer's expectations. 👍
When you started putting in the new motor I was yelling in my head "no! its not the motor! its corrosion on the shaft!". I was glad to see you got it right, I've had to clean up the wiper motor shaft on our 06 ford explorer 2 times over 10 years of ownership. definitely beats the hell out of a new motor, I couldn't tell you how many people would just throw a new motor assembly on it when it only took 30 minutes of my time to fix.
As a customer, I would absolutely be fine with you fixing the old part over buying new. better for me, better for the environment, and the original part is probably better than any aftermarket part anyways.
Enjoyed watching you take the old shaft out of housing. I like to see how things are put together!
HEY, that wasn't a true Russian repair, the o ring was a part. I feel cheated. 🤣 Lol. Great job as always Ivan.
Awesome repair Ivan!
It’s good to see someone actually performing auto repair instead of parts changing.
Auto repair seems to be a lost art.
Great video and great job
Thanks for the comment, George! Fixing something is always more satisfying than swapping in a junky part 🙂
Yup... My dad was born in Estonia in 1918, he was attending Engineering University in Germany when WWII broke out... He survived the war fixing cars and bicycles, mostly without spare parts and learned to weld professionally as well as eventually getting his master toolmakers certification. To make things even more fun, he supervised a machine shop with a tool and die shop aside when I was learning to fix cars. By now, you might be catching the drift, who needs to buy car parts if you can rebuild them. And with his skills and access to a commercial machine shop, we didn't buy a lot of parts. Watching you fix the wiper reminded me very much of how I learned to do it, except I would have just started out looking for the seized shaft first. When the bushings wear out you don't have much electrical draw, if any and when the windings short the motor smells burnt. So always smell a motor before tearing it apart, it will save you time.
As to Russian repairs... My dad worked with a lot of old Russian mechanics during WWII and when we once got stuck by a rusted and seized nut and bolt... he told me we had to "Russian Wrench" the bolt out. He came out of his shop with a hand sledge hammer and a cold chisel. A few taps later the stuck fastener was no more and the metal surfaces it held together were still perfect. He told me the procedure was developed by master Russian mechanics over years because of actual tool shortages... he even used the hammer and chisel method to loosen rounded off bolts... I know that many modern mechanics might consider these methods barbarian.. but watching someone who could operate a hammer and chisel with such precision was actually impressive.... Knowing the technique, I still use "Russian Wrenching" as a last resort... but I've always wondered if it's still taught or used by Russian mechanics, or if it's a lost art.
Nice! I visited my cousin a few years ago. He lives in a Siberian village but drives an old Mercedes. I watched him change out control arm bushings on his wife's old Honda wagon in a matter of minutes with two sledge hammers and a board. No damage to the parts whatsoever. Who needs a press or bushing removal kit?!? :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Never underestimate Russian ingenuity!
I’m with you Ivan I’d rather make more than give it to part store and if I can reman it better then it just makes sense. I give both options to customer and they usually go with what I reccomend. Nice video, thanks for sharing
Good job Ivan!!👍😁😎
I would try to rebuild it, I did that with alternators, starters. years ago. Been wrenching on my own junk for 46yrs. I love it when the parts cannon is not used. Poor man`s repairs here...lol Great job Ivan...you make some, customer saves some.....win win. Stay safe.
I do a lot of mobile repairs; the problem is with the stay in place order, I feel a little anxious about traveling all day. I don't want a citation, even though mechanics are still allowed to operate. I'm now so glad I registered my business instead of just winging it on Craigslist
As long as there is no complete lock down, you can not be pulled over just for driving. Officer still needs reasonable suspicion that you have committed a crime, your Constitutional rights. Besides, I thought automotive repair was listed as a necessity? It is here in California.
Keep on keeping on. Those who give up liberty for security deserve neither.
@@adkancapadventures7738 haha get used to giving up civil liberties for exchange of a false sense of security. Propaganda is problem... reaction... solution. Problem: man made cold. reaction: public freakout. solution: printing money. Who benefits ? Central banking (they are charging interest). We are ruled by a king just as we have always been. Note corona means crown. Bill Gates promoting humam depopulation and vaccines (as a means to depopulation...he even tells us that). Bill from king county Washington where the first and biggest outbreak in usa was (Kirkland washington in king county) king....crown...
at least here in California one is only required to get licensed if one works on vehicles that are "required to be registered" (or motorcycles). CVC 260 shows that that's only vehicles that are primarily used for the "transport" of persons or property for hire making a specific charge therefore. It doesn't say one can only work on unregistered vehicles. So if someone chooses to register a vehicle that isn't required (e.g. they decide to make a donation to the state/police) that's not my fault. I just refuse to work on vehicles that are commercial carriers (e.g. taxis, couriers, heavy trucks, etc...) and I'm still legit even traveling to work on a customer's car.
For a cop to interpret the plain black letter law otherwise is an "illegally promulgated underground regulation" and no bueno (e.g. as per Cal. Govt. C. 11340, et seq)
We do work for professional customers, so if a part isn't working we replace it if we have it in stock, if not we try a bodge to make due until the part arrives at the shop.
Yes, I imagine there are completely different constraints and priorities in an industrial environment. Downtime is expensive and replacing parts is quicker than repairing. Also, because of liability considerations you want to stick to new and OEM parts. If something goes wrong you can at least argue that you did everything by the book and according to manufacturer specifications.
@@danp9551 That makes sense, I remember watching on the news a passenger airplane temporarily fixed with some fancy duct tape while they had more time and parts available to complete the repair. It was approved by the manufacturer but didn't stop passengers from taking pictures of the wing all patched up lol
Congratulations on 75,000+ subs!
Thank you for your support!
Some parts can be repaired. When it comes to rust, you never know how long the repair will last, especially to the motor and gears.
Marine grease absolutely stays put. Johnson Triple Guard works good down south. Ivan's repair could last longer than stock OEM.
I want to see the Russian repair on the plastic cap that exploded when you popped it off... 😂
It didn't explode luckily 😬👍
Make one out of black rtv!
it went flying with a pop as a bunch of corrosion junk fell, I thought it broke at first also, but slowed and paused video lol
Another awesome repair!!!! Love it!!!!
Hi Ivan I think your right. I would rather repair than replace, as we throw to much away just because there are less people in this day and age that don't know how to take something apart and repair it, it is a dyeing art and it shows that you care for your customers, the economy and environment. keep up the good work sir 👍😉
Nice fix, Ivan! You know I love those kinds of fixes. Why spend money when you don't have to? I try to do this whenever possible, and practical. Saves me a trip to the store, saves me and the customer money, and if I order the part online, it saves the waiting for it to arrive. That's a WIN-WIN-WIN in my book. Nice work! 👍🍻
Same over here. I'm still working, but I notice a big slow down in work. My wife, unfortunately is out of work. She's a hairdresser - considered "non-essential". First time in 28 years she's been out of work! We had been planning for something like this for quite some time, so we'll be ok. No buying new tools anytime soon, though. Gotta pay the mortgage and other bills first. Thankfully we didn't buy a mansion 17 years ago, and our newest vehicle is 13 years old. We'll manage. 😉
Good job...I have also found that brass bearings that are suppose to be lube less, actually work better with a drop of 100% synthetic oil. 30 years ago I had a oscillating fan that the motor seized up. I oiled the brass bearings with Mobile 1 5w30 and the motor came back to life. The motor continued to work for the next 30 years until the plastic frame finally collapsed.
Repaired a recirc fan in a freezer thirty years ago too, with a drop of silicone "fuser oil" meant for laser printer platens. Still working perfectly today.
Classic name for a video 😂 Happy New Year
Good fix Ivan. Problem was, that larger exterior rubber seal around the shaft just below the wiper arm allow moisture to seep inside then, it harbored the moisture between it and the second seal that was attached to the motor housing. So, moisture between those two seals AKA steam once the sun hits the window etc. and over the many cycles of that moisture and likely a tad bit of pressure, the water was being pushed into the stem and motor housing sleeve/busing etc. Not only that, two dissimilar metals used so more oxidation happened likely as not enough of and proper grease.
I had a similar problem with the "park" feature on a GM wiper motor and figured out the plastic housing cover had lost much of its strength and the plastic "clips" of press in type bosses on that part allowed too much gap from the "cam" and gear assembly which then allowed the park ramp on the nylon gear to be bypassed. So, when turning off the wipers from the wiper switch stopped the wipers in the position they were in vs. allowing the motor to continue until the wipers were in the park position, then stop. Bought a Cardone, only brand available, wiper motor assembly and used the one single part needed vs. spend 4 hours dealing with the wiper transmission assembly to replace the motor. Works perfect now plus, I have a new spare motor if I need it. did all this before the quarantine so keeping the part was easy.
As a customer, I’d insist on new on something that corroded. But, it’s always better for money in the consumer’s hands than on top of the pile of cash many corporations already have. Call me a Keynesian.
Great repair job it’ll probably work longer than the rebuild one I all-ways repair instead of replace when I can👍
Absolutely In that case You did with wiper. Ive done a few times. And they worked for years. So It all depends on how long it was ran like that. And heated that motor up. But you did A test on the windings so It should be Good for years. Great saving..and video. Im a new subscriber. Your close to my old home town..Which is cool...
Nice job Ivan. I guess I would have preferred a new part vs. old part. Looking at what they gave you for a new part I think you did the right thing. A buddy of mine got a remanufactured starter for his Honda ATV and it only lasted about a month. I tore it apart and couldn’t believe what I found. All the magnets that are attached in the case came loose and were just laying inside the case. (Were they glued in or what?!) I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. We ended up putting new brushes in the old starter and sanding the armature to make a clean contact surface. Slapped the old one back together and it’s been working fine for the last 2 years. Unbelievable some of the junk parts they are selling now days.
I always try to repair the part if at all possible and if I have ample time. This brings me more satisfaction than the parts cannon. I'm waiting to come across a failed ECU with a bad MOSFET driver so I can replace the failed component.
Always like the Russian repairs......
Same situation happens with most Jap front wiper transmissions, I take em apart put a very small groove in the shaft to hold lube and lasts till customer dumps the vehicle.
Repairing the OEM parts is always the way to go. Besides. no parts required is your thing. I would expect nothing less.
Good job.
Given that you found mechanical resistance to be the cause, I sure would trust the factory motor to outlast the aftermarket reman. I've had a lot of comebacks from aftermarket reman stuff. And just because it's guaranteed for life doesn't mean it's not a guaranteed piece of crap!
Fixing what you have is often the best choice. For example: I reseal power Honda steering pumps all the time. An hour of labor plus $20 in o-rings beats the cost of a reman every time.
I agree with you Ivan, the owners shouldn't stress the motors they should always knock and scrape the ice off to prolong the service life of the wiper, that didn't have anything to do with the rust problem but still fit in the cata gory. Thanks Ivan always interesting
oh no, where is the bonus footage with wiper motor scope capture after diy repair.;-)
Ivan! Yes, You did the right thing. John
As a customer I would appreciate your work over shiny new Chinesium any day of the week. I think most mechanics though would just swap the part and call it a day and would never to the testing you do. Thanks for making this world a better place by rinsing, recycling, reusing, encouraging and teaching others to think outside the box while being the change you want to see.
Thanks for your time and work. Did you happen to scope the 3 signals -voltage, amp draw and ground voltage - once more after reinstalling the overhauled motor?
Down here in Mexico actual repair work at component level is more often done than in the so called developed parts of the world. Partially because labour cost and availability. ....but also because people don't suffer from "throw away mentality". It doesn't take a genius to figure out that limited resources don't allow an unlimited supply.
Great video Ivan. i'm with u i love saving money if u can rebuild it then do it.
Nice job Ivan. I'm surprised there wasn't an Oilite bushing on that shaft. They cheaped out on that wiper assembly.
Well I'm actually impressed that the motor didn't burn out! That's pretty good quality! They just cheaped out on the seal lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You have a point there. It was great to see the motor waveforms, even if it didn't show the failure directly it lead you to dig deeper. A double lip seal and some good grease might have prevented the failure.
If you have the time repair it ,great video!!
Be sure to use your "safety squint" when using those wire wheels.
I was thinking the same thing. Had far too many little curly wires stuck in my shirt after use to know they come flying out at extreme speeds!
I used to work for a dealer that sold a station wagon model, I could change rear wiper motors in my sleep on those.
Depends on the nature of the wear on the component. The wiper assembly is a good candidate for repair IMO. Some parts the wear is such that it will fail again. Like you I've taken apart a number of assemblies and found issues that could be repaired, and even in some cases improved from the original manufacturing, like in some cases using a good lube, protecting parts from weather intrusion, etc.
Good solid repair.
I would leave it up to the customer just in case the old part goes bad soon it will not come back to me and bite me in the ass
100% right, its not if, but when. Let them make the decision.
Ivan, you would have loved the 80's and earlier; everything rebuildable. We did bushings, seals, bearings, gaskets, hard parts, etc. in ALL KINDS OF STUFF. We had tranny vises in our bays, and could have a refresher kit from RPM Merit out the door by lunchtime. I hate that today so much is sealed up and disposable, or price of rebuilds so cheap that shops cannot justify selling in-house overhaul at flat rate, instead opting for R&R only.
I think it’s better to rebuild when you can my 2 cents
Awesome videos dude
Covid is better in Florida we have a good governor that lets us work if we want to
Actually the scope measurements did show the tell tale of very high load on the reciprocating part: You may see the current always dropped to a fraction of the full current (actually to the level it was supposed to be with a good wiper assembly) whenever it went through the direction reverse, where the reciprocating parts do not have to move so does not load the motor.
And the small nut is not supposed to hug the shaft, but to hug the o-ring, so to ensure the seal...
I've cleaned a few output wiper motor shafts and enabled the motor.
What about cost of labor to fix rusted shaft verses cost of the remaned motor?
I cleaned rear brake calipers, got them working, and they weren't happy about it because of the cost difference of the remaned calipers. (I don't remember the cost difference.)
You just answered this question.
Great repair,,,that beats the ole parts cannon
Hey Ivan, I hope you are staying healthy. The economy will take a while to recover, unfortunately. Take care, my friend!
The parts cannon is not good for the economy. That would be “The broken window fallacy”.
obama fired the parts canon long ago ;)
I agree with your assessment. If I could repair the original part without costing the customer more than a reman, I'd opt for the repair provided it will be as good or better than the reman part. Of course the OE part is better quality that the reman anyway. I am seeing a slowdown in work as as you stated people aren't traveling as much so less wear and tear on their vehicles.
Similar situation for me on my Saturn SL2. Wiper pivots seized. Thought the motor was bad. I disassembled the wiper pivots that were rusty. Cleaned them up. I lubed them with anti seize and reassembled them. Worked like a charm.
Working in the dealership we cannot do this unless the part is unavailable or extremely expensive. 2 weeks ago i was allowed to take the push button latch out of the tail gate of a chevy trail blazer and free it up. At home i would normally try to fix something on my own vehicles or doing side jobs with full disclosure if it fails then we will replace the component. As for my shop its very slow, we have 12 guys fighting over 20ish appointments each day. Managers have said nothing to us other than we could clean to get paid shop time... Last week we finished all the internal work to survive, next week it will be interesting. I have a few jobs i'm waiting on parts for such as a 19 impala for a dash harness, has a bad fuse block/bus bar, and it only comes as a harness. A 2009 express that needs a new transmission(Cheaper to replace than rebuild, plus parts availability) and a new equinox 375 miles with a 9 speed transmission that i gotta pull apart, has burnt fluid with metal and clutch materials, the factory messed that one up... I'm probably going to waste my vacation time and do projects around the house and make a paycheck that way... I've been wondering about how Keith is doing being in the epicenter of this whole mess. He hasn't posted a new video in months.
Reflowed/soldered my main relay. Saved money and kept the OEM part installed. Yes! By all means rebuild/repair if you can...
I would rather you replace it, if it was my vehicle. The owner will most likely be back in a year or so because the motor burned out.
Enjoy your video. I like that you rebuild a part since many shop are just parts replacement places like the dealerships.
I have gone down that road only to replace it later.. All depends upon what part you are rebuilding.
Based on the abuse that the original motor went through unscathed, I am very confident that it will outlast the car and any aftermarket parts 🙂
OMG Ivan, OSHA will be at your door tomorrow, no shield on the wire wheel. Happened to me at my first work place after getting out of the Air Force. Not just the regular OEM shield but needed a complete cover on the end, said the inspector.
I do this often ivan do not forget to lube the 2 on the front too.
Hi Ivan ,in this case i think you should have left the reman in place,and gave him the old fixed one as a spare.The shaft with pits is going to have less surface area.lubrication works on surface contact between two usually dissimilar surfaces and grease,oil,or air as the medium that keep the two surfaces from welding or corroding into one.I'm surprised they designed that without a bronze bushing in the alum housing,that's how it's usually done.bronze or oil-lite bushings self lube.Still i enjoyed your disassembly to see the guts and how it failed .thanks
The rebuild of the wiper motor would have been my first option, I just like fixing things; with a 3/4 ton CNC mill and two lathes, plus other tools, including labscope, I'm set. Now also I wonder how long it will be before we have footage of the rebuild of your shop; after the wood burning stove, which is in close proximity to numerous sources of fuel - from a retired Fire/Medic. Best wishes, and stay healthy!
I fixed a rear wiper motor with a similar issue and basically in the same way. This was about 4 years ago. Afaik it is still working. If you should do it or not depends; if you a DIY:er then go for it if you have the time to spare. If you are a professional mechanic, then you should consider what is best for the customer and consult with your customer.
Perfect! I got the Great Scott! Reference
Great job Ivan. That repair is good all around. Thanks!
The rear wiper on my 2011 Outback started acting up, sounded like a sad puppy. I “fixed” it by disassembly of the drive gears and cleaning and lubricating the gears with lithium grease and silicone grease on the rubber seals. It’s been happy for three years now.
Edit: Same fix
Badass repair again. I love all of your no parts needed repairs
Ivan, you should have installed a zerk fitting on the shaft housing! ;-)
I don't mind doing a repair verses a replacement, when it makes sense. I do like your videos and your interest in truly root causing failures. With this particular repair, and because you asked for feedback, I didn't agree with the ultimate decision to repair, simply because how you got there. First, you returned an electrical part after it was installed, which no part supplier allows, as far as I know. Second, and to me more important, you used the new part (reman to be particular) to help you diagnose the root cause, then returned it. That's just my opinion, but you asked. Keep up the great videos.
Agreed Ron, this definitely wasn't my standard procedure. Just wanted to have the new part on hand so repair would go quickly. Definitely learned that there is more than meets the eye when it comes to sluggish electrical motors 🙂
Be interested to see what the scanner says about the fixed part. If the voltage/current/ground numbers all come in good stay with the repaired oem. Sometimes after an extended period of malfunction the motor gets semi-toasted and may have reduced further life.
I like this repair 💪👌
Keith! Well it's not a Staten Island type of repair, but it works :)
this was problem in my day frozen wiper pivots . clean lube and done
Many times the part(s) replacement (i.e. "parts cannon") is cheaper than the labor that it takes to repair the old broken device. Especially when the diagnostic labor is added. That is probably why dealership shops go the "parts cannon" route and hope and roll the dice that it would fix the problem.
Another good one!!! Your black and yellow impact turned red???
See that corn in the trunk? That might be life saving.
I thought you were working full time for that company that did some kind of data sensor installs or something like that and this was side work type stuff, did the other company move or something?
To answer your question, as a customer which option costs less. These days labor rates usually far exceed the part cost. So if it cost are the same then I’ll go with the new part. If rebuilding with an hour of labor charge is less then a quick swap then rebuild it is.
Great video, Ivan? Do you know where I can get a wiring diagram on a 2007 Ford ranger 2.3 liter cruise control, color coded. Squirrels damaged. I have soldered the wires back together, but 3 extra wires don't have any where to go. Any help is appreciated on tracing the wires. If I were in State College you would be a person I would seek. Thanks if you help me find a diagram.
FYI: Some parts houses have really frowned on using their electrical parts for diagnosis. In other words, if they could see tiny scratches on the connector where you'd plugged it in, they wouldn't take it back. So best to dismantle the old part and try and figure out what's wrong with it first. If you're inclined to do swaptronics with it, do it with a junkyard part (and hope to god they both didn't just fail the exact same way -- which is fairly common).
Good point. Ivan needs to insist that he can not use it because the mounting bushings were different -- the new one recall only had a hole.
Oem part always better option. Marine grease excellent choice. Motor commutators look very healthy and ready to go. $150 with labour is a hefty unnecessary bill when the original device can be refurbished like new. Job well done.
Thank you Tom! I am glad to hear that you approve of the Marine grease 😁👌
Ivan you have what most Americans do not have today ! Common sense 👍💟
LOL back in the Soviet days it was really tough to survive without common sense. That is why I respect my parents and grandparents so much.
Ivan,
Great video, analysis, and repair. I love Russian repairs! My only question is a lot of auto parts stores have a 'no return on electrical parts' policy. Perhaps your supplier exempts you.
God bless
Paul (in MA)
BTW Cardone is pretty much the same quality as Dorman.
BTW2 The rear wiper in my 2002 Focus wagon still works fine LOL
Rear wiper on my 1989 Mazda MPV still works fine too haha ;)
3.28.20. Ivan if the Armature had shorted windings, you would’ve most likely been blowing fuses in that circuit......... The resistance check for shorted windings is not gonna show up with a regular multi meter. I like your investigative mind, not just satisfied with the repair but finding out what the root cause was. That is what distinguishes a true dedicated technician from a parts changer. 🚗
Thank you for the kind words Steven! I think that the body unit was smart enough to limit the current to 5amps and save the motor and the fuses. There's a reason why that feed voltage was down to 10 Volts!
would have drawn more amps than the reman one too if the windings were shorted. it drew the same so its good