Thanks for the feedback! We might do another video on hooking 2-wire and 4-wire smokes to this system specifically seeing as we've learned a few tricks since making this video. Thanks for watching and for leaving us your thoughts!
Also, instead of purchasing a new terminal block you can just run all wires and connect them using a wire nut and run a single wire per terminal on the keypad bus.
I have a friend he wants to upgrade from DSC PC1555 to cellular primary monitor with vista 20p and 2 keypads. What to get and how to connect, could you please instruct?
You can you our quote request form and we can tell you what you need. After that we can send you vids on the wiring and programming. Here's the quote req form: form.jotform.com/alarms/request-an-alarm-system-quote
@@AlarmSystemStore I need to know before buying it from you that according to the existing DSC PC1555 hardwired, does he needed more hardwire to be wired before can use the vista 20p with cellular primary monitoring?
Dear John, Great effort and nice video presentation. I like to convert this unit to eWelink platform by installing smart switch. But how can we sure from outside system is armed or disarmed if we are not able to see keypad? Normally when we enter only we know system is armed by Red LED display on keypad. When we use our 433MHz remote to turn off alarm system, sometimes it is not disarmed and if we try to enter from Garage Alarm goes off. How to tackle this automation with showing current status of security system? I have additional trigger circuit board on the the original PCB. Which is mounted on same terminals where you installed 4 wire smoke alarm. Please help. Your video was very useful.
Is the long horn smoke detector or the other model of smoke detector can applicable to honeywell panel?or not?how can install it,specially in four wires?
Why are you not using "fire wire" I would useing terminal 9.The fire wire is a bit expensive but it fuses in heat and which in turn sets off the fire alarm. As you know Fire over rides burgular I worked for Honeywell. One great company to work for. I also made a drawing of all my installation in Home,Commercial & Industrial.So,in 5-10 years an installer would know what was run and where. I'm a lover of hard wiring,just saying as I do not like wirelass
Hello Jon.....I just moved in to a house using this exact system. I have a 2nd GE keypad at my interior garage door entrance that for some reason is disconnected at the box. I have a black ,green and white wire in the box not connected. May I ask which terminals these should be connected to. I did as much research as possible to determine why this was disconnected with no result. I need to find out for myself.
Well the best way to figure this out would be to check how the wires connect at the keypad. The keypad will usually have the colored wires connected into terminals. These terminals will be the same at the box. There will be two for power and then one for data.
Was hoping to hear about the alarm , or rather siren connection, on my old panel it says "Bell" and then "Siren" new vista just has alarm , I'm just wondering what is connected the the "Bell " terminal on the old Brinks board?
I have a Vista 10SE System with 2 key pads, 3 door contacts and want to add 7 FG-1625 acoustic glassbreaks. The wiring is all done through out the first floor behind the walls to the control panel and labeled. I don't have enough zones left to keep them separated so do I need to bundle them with a terminal block?
You say the smokes are parallel but you’re saying run them all to zone one? Are you saying splice each smoke into one of the smokes wire and connect it to zone one terminal or stick each individual wire of the different smokes under the same terminals on zone one?
Yes. Although Honeywell has set zone one to be a fire zone by factory default for two wire smokes; you can use other devices. The only thing about doing this is that you must absolutely use a resistor on this zone even if you're not using resistors on anything else. Thanks for watching the video. Good to have you here!
Resistors are not needed for fire alarm notification appliances, however for initiating devices, you will need to place resistors where the wires are on the device.
Ok so I hooked up the door contact how your video showed, using the clamp thing for the resister and wire, and followed your other video on setting up the zones but it still says fault 02, but it does chime when I open the door. I just can’t arm the system. It also says check 100rf receiver but I don’t know what that is
Did you use the 2K Ohm resistor? Color bands on that resistor would red, black, red, and gold. As far as the 100RF that pertains to the fact that you have a wireless device programmed into the system but may not have a wireless receiver or if you do have a wireless receiver; it may not be installed correctly.
Alarm System Store I tried to match the resister to the one in the video but I must’ve used the wrong one. I’m going to switch it out, and I did have a wireless sensor programmed in because I didn’t actually realize it’s a wireless one and I don’t know how to delete that out
For removing the wireless device; follow the steps below: Enter programming by typing 4-Digit installer code followed by 800 When you get in you'll see '20' or 'Installer 20' At this point type *56 to go to zone programming Then you'll see 'Confirm 1=yes 0=no' Press 0 You'll then be presented with a screen that says 'Enter Zone Number' Type in the 2 digit zone number you put the wireless device on. If you put it on zone 9 then type '09' Then press * You'll see the zone programming summary Press * Then you'll see 'Zone Type' Type '00' then hit * It'll ask if you want to delete zone. Press '1' It will then kick you back to 'Enter Zone Number' Type '00' then *99 to exit programming
Good lord. Someone go to that DSC keypad and hit *2. Thanks for the video. I’m a senior tech looking for stuff to train a new tech who knows nothing about wiring, electricity it basic took use. I’ll see if this is useful to him.
So it doesn't matter if the resistor goes on the high or low side of the zone terminals in the panel? I was watching another video that said to always put it to the gnd or low side???
Hey... do you happen to know ??? I have a vista 15P panel. keypad shows low battery 57. What does that mean ? I don't think its a wireless zone . keypad maybe ?
So I have an alarm system setup but only my doors trigger the beeping when opened. All the windows in my house are hardwired but don’t beep when opened. What would I do to make those function? And which wires in my control panel would be for the windows?
Well, you'd want to make sure the wires for those windows are hooked up to the control panel. You can get a tone generator to use to trace the wires. If you discover that they are hooked up then you'd just need to make sure that the programming is set for those zones
A tone generator would be able to tell me which wires are wired to the windows? Also how would I get into the setup for those zones I’m almost positive the wires are connected to the panel
A tone generator would help trace the wire runs, yes. You can find some here - www.google.com/search?q=tone+generator&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwilmNH1877aAhUReKwKHcn5D98Q_AUICigB&biw=1440&bih=769 To get into the programming sections for that panel you'd need the installer code.
Would it be possible to use 2 sets of 18/2 wires and just run positive + negative + positive + negative on the keypad terminals? And if so, what order would the wires go on the keypad?
Yea, you could I suppose. Not best practice to do so, but the panel doesn't care what color the actual wires are as long as each terminates to the appropriate terminal on the other end.
@@trainknightt No not at all, there is only one + and -, the other two are data in this case. Polarity among all must be observed though end to end regardless of wire colors you use. The color of wire doesn't determine what goes down a given wire, what it's connected to does.
I have a problem with Honeywell Vista 20P. Connection between Kickbar to Strobelight and connection to the cellphone When the kickbar is kicked, the strobelight turns on and the connection to the cellphone sometimes connect and sometimes it can't. Almost probable it can’t What is the problem and can anyone help us? Thank you
I noticed on your alarm system aluminum enclosure, you have a contact switch if it's door is opened, where does that switch wire into? And what is that switch called if I wish to purchase one? Kevin Rea Lancaster California USA
It is a cabinet tamper. They are out of stock at the moment, but they are here: www.alarmsystemstore.com/products/gri-tsc-20-cabinet-tamper-plunger-switch They can be connected to a zone or an or existing tamper circuit that some system have.
Hello; I am a subscriber, and owner of a Honeywell Vista alarm panel. Would you please answer a question for me? If the Vista panel alarm goes off, and the perp leaves an alarmed door open, how long will the alarm go off without a code being entered to disarm it?
Sure! Here's the link - www.alarmsystemstore.com/pages/all-about-resistors We'll go ahead and add it in the description here as well. Have a great day!
They are what people refer to as normally closed, yes. When the door or window is closed then the loop is completed. When the door or window is open then the loop is open causing and alarm or fault.
Hi. Great video. Have 2 questions. We just visited your website and noticed that you do tinker around with z-wave products. We implement a lot of 2GIG products, and for the most part, new installs are a breeze. But when taking over existing wired systems, we need to install 2GIG's takeover module. Keeping the current wired install in place, 2GIG's Takeover Kit requires only the zone wire to be removed, and leaving the COM still in the wired system. With that being said, not all boards are the same. Google brought us here, because were taking over an existing home, who had ADT, and they have the WA3000 you have above. Same exact board. You mentioned 8/9 = Zone 1, 10/11 = Zone 2, 12/13 = Zone 3, 14/15 = Zone 4 and (Question 1) is it safe to say this is a 8 Zone board or otherwise, and can you list which terminals are the zones? (Question 2), in your video, according to 2GIG's Takeover Module specs, removing the zone wire and keeping the COM in place, which terminal would be the Zone and which is the COM? In example 8/9 = Zone 1, would 8 be the Zone and 9 be the COM?
Can you add a second motion sensor. If so is it a new zone or do you put them in the same one the current motion sensor is in? Sorry if question seems dumb I know nothing about alarm panels
Hardwired devices, like motion detectors, can be wired together on one zone. Since the motion detectors are normally closed in operation you'll wire them in series if putting more than one on a zone. Most people put wired devices one per zone for ease of troubleshooting. If you have more than one device per zone then if one goes bad you'll have to check the entire run to find out which one is giving trouble.
I am having installation and configuration problems. My house is prewired and an old Ademco ADT system was in place. Unfortunately, I didn't have the installer code and I can seem to reset the code using the back door method. It's possible that the panel was locked out. So I bought a new Vista-21ip, thinking that I can just reconnect everything and it should work. Unfortunately, it didn't go as planned at all. I do not have a smoke detector pre-wired. So I left Zone 1 empty. When the system booted up, I got two errors. One is "Check 103 LngRng Radio", the other is "Fire code 01". I can't seem to get into the installation model with [4112]+ 800. So I moved shifted all zone connections such that Zone 1 is now connected to a door sensor. When I boot up the system, the alarm triggers, showing 'Fire 01'. I am really stuck at this moment. Hoping someone can offer some advice. Much much appreciated!
Zone 1 needs a 2k resistor, it can be programmed out as well. Zone 1 can be used as a door or motion but has to be programmed as much and the 2k resistor needs to be " in line" on the loop. It's designed for 2 wire smoke detectors. Put a 2k across the terminals, they come with the panel. The long range radio 103 is indicating that there is no internet connection and no resideo account established. Simply power down the panel and move the white jumper on the board. Now power up, You now have a glorified vista20. If you can't get into programming, try this. Power cycle the panel and hold the * and# keys simultaneously. If it's not locked out it will take you straight to sect 20. Then hit #20 and it will read out what the 4 digit installer code is. I realize this post is a year old already but hope that helps.
What? No EOL relay for the 4 wire smoke? Power not being monitored, if the power goes out to the smoke detector it won't work, but the two wires going to the Zone will be not seeing any trouble, putting an EOL relay at the smoke detector or last one in the line, now you can monitor the power for when the relay trips out on the lack of power it will open connection at the EOL and cause a trouble on the zone..
We have another video that discusses that very thing. This video is just a basic wiring video that covers how most systems are installed. Unfortunately most people do not use EOL relays. As an installer I personally saw just as few installed by pros as well. In fact, even proper EOL usuage on burg zones was / is rare with the majority just putting them in the panel.
@@Timetaker1000 the panel reads resistance. therefore putting the resistor at the sensor (EOL) end of line, means that if a wire was cut, the panel would read "open circuit" or zero voltage & therefore Alarm. If there was a "short circuit" (join wires together - bypass resistance) the panel would read zero resistance or full voltage (12v) & therefore Alarm, because the resistor is at EOL. Now place the resistor at the panel ......... cut or short the wires anywhere between the panel & sensor, the panel will still read the resistance and not Alarm. Noting the resistor should be in series
My smoke alarms are wireless. How do I silence the "Fire Trouble" error I get in my Tuxedo Keypad? Do I just connect 2k resistors across the board terminals for zones that are not wire connected?
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
In the future, make sure to mention that the two-wire smoke circuit (zone 1) is polarity sensitive.
Thanks for the feedback! We might do another video on hooking 2-wire and 4-wire smokes to this system specifically seeing as we've learned a few tricks since making this video. Thanks for watching and for leaving us your thoughts!
Also, instead of purchasing a new terminal block you can just run all wires and connect them using a wire nut and run a single wire per terminal on the keypad bus.
I have a friend he wants to upgrade from DSC PC1555 to cellular primary monitor with vista 20p and 2 keypads. What to get and how to connect, could you please instruct?
You can you our quote request form and we can tell you what you need. After that we can send you vids on the wiring and programming. Here's the quote req form:
form.jotform.com/alarms/request-an-alarm-system-quote
@@AlarmSystemStore I need to know before buying it from you that according to the existing DSC PC1555 hardwired, does he needed more hardwire to be wired before can use the vista 20p with cellular primary monitoring?
The quote form isn't buying anything. He may need some additional wire for wiring between boards. It wouldn't be substantial though. @@huongyn8808
Dear John,
Great effort and nice video presentation. I like to convert this unit to eWelink platform by installing smart switch. But how can we sure from outside system is armed or disarmed if we are not able to see keypad? Normally when we enter only we know system is armed by Red LED display on keypad. When we use our 433MHz remote to turn off alarm system, sometimes it is not disarmed and if we try to enter from Garage Alarm goes off. How to tackle this automation with showing current status of security system? I have additional trigger circuit board on the the original PCB. Which is mounted on same terminals where you installed 4 wire smoke alarm.
Please help.
Your video was very useful.
Thanks
Is the long horn smoke detector or the other model of smoke detector can applicable to honeywell panel?or not?how can install it,specially in four wires?
Why are you not using "fire wire" I would useing terminal 9.The fire wire is a bit expensive but it fuses in heat and which in turn sets off the fire alarm. As you know Fire over rides burgular
I worked for Honeywell. One great company to work for. I also made a drawing of all my installation in Home,Commercial & Industrial.So,in 5-10 years an installer would know what was run and where. I'm a lover of hard wiring,just saying as I do not like wirelass
nice quick no nonsense video, thanks.
What does that even mean
@@iashbanen it means its awesome, quick and too the point, its not 30 min long like some of these videos are, don't you like it?
Hello Jon.....I just moved in to a house using this exact system. I have a 2nd GE keypad at my interior garage door entrance that for some reason is disconnected at the box. I have a black ,green and white wire in the box not connected. May I ask which terminals these should be connected to. I did as much research as possible to determine why this was disconnected with no result. I need to find out for myself.
Well the best way to figure this out would be to check how the wires connect at the keypad. The keypad will usually have the colored wires connected into terminals. These terminals will be the same at the box. There will be two for power and then one for data.
Was hoping to hear about the alarm , or rather siren connection, on my old panel it says "Bell" and then "Siren" new vista just has alarm , I'm just wondering what is connected the the "Bell " terminal on the old Brinks board?
I have a Vista 10SE System with 2 key pads, 3 door contacts and want to add 7 FG-1625 acoustic glassbreaks. The wiring is all done through out the first floor behind the walls to the control panel and labeled. I don't have enough zones left to keep them separated so do I need to bundle them with a terminal block?
You say the smokes are parallel but you’re saying run them all to zone one? Are you saying splice each smoke into one of the smokes wire and connect it to zone one terminal or stick each individual wire of the different smokes under the same terminals on zone one?
Can you have a door contact on zone 1 and then in programming you set it as a entry delay and exit delay?
Yes. Although Honeywell has set zone one to be a fire zone by factory default for two wire smokes; you can use other devices. The only thing about doing this is that you must absolutely use a resistor on this zone even if you're not using resistors on anything else. Thanks for watching the video. Good to have you here!
Do I need resistors for a fire alarm? Where do I put in several spectralert classics?
Resistors are not needed for fire alarm notification appliances, however for initiating devices, you will need to place resistors where the wires are on the device.
Why is it bad to place resistors in the panel. I had mine installed many years ago and the resistors are in the panel.
I’m in the security field, every one has preferences on how they want it the resistors to be at I prefer mines in the panel.
The resistor makes it supervised
Hi, I want to wire a panic button to the panel, can you tell me where should I connect to?
Ok so I hooked up the door contact how your video showed, using the clamp thing for the resister and wire, and followed your other video on setting up the zones but it still says fault 02, but it does chime when I open the door. I just can’t arm the system.
It also says check 100rf receiver but I don’t know what that is
Did you use the 2K Ohm resistor? Color bands on that resistor would red, black, red, and gold. As far as the 100RF that pertains to the fact that you have a wireless device programmed into the system but may not have a wireless receiver or if you do have a wireless receiver; it may not be installed correctly.
Alarm System Store I tried to match the resister to the one in the video but I must’ve used the wrong one. I’m going to switch it out, and I did have a wireless sensor programmed in because I didn’t actually realize it’s a wireless one and I don’t know how to delete that out
For removing the wireless device; follow the steps below:
Enter programming by typing 4-Digit installer code followed by 800
When you get in you'll see '20' or 'Installer 20'
At this point type *56 to go to zone programming
Then you'll see 'Confirm 1=yes 0=no'
Press 0
You'll then be presented with a screen that says 'Enter Zone Number'
Type in the 2 digit zone number you put the wireless device on. If you put it on zone 9 then type '09'
Then press *
You'll see the zone programming summary
Press *
Then you'll see 'Zone Type'
Type '00' then hit *
It'll ask if you want to delete zone. Press '1'
It will then kick you back to 'Enter Zone Number'
Type '00' then *99 to exit programming
Alarm System Store oh my god thank you so much 😂 it finally works I’m so excited
My keypad won’t stop beeping do you know what this can be from?
Good lord. Someone go to that DSC keypad and hit *2.
Thanks for the video. I’m a senior tech looking for stuff to train a new tech who knows nothing about wiring, electricity it basic took use. I’ll see if this is useful to him.
8worked for Honeywell .Yes a certified electronic alarm system techni ian
Female and I was A+ Conrail wanted to hire me. IM enjoying your video
What will happen if I wire a motion detector with the resistor connecting across the MOTION TO PANEL and MOTION FROM PANEL
On DSC you can eliminate the resistors with a simple programming change. Will this panel do that too?
The main board zones are set per zone, and expanders have a dipswitch that changes them from NC to EOL.
my ademco panel receives a 16V input but has an output of 7V at terminal 5 and 4. my alarm does not work.
Could you give me a solution?
So it doesn't matter if the resistor goes on the high or low side of the zone terminals in the panel? I was watching another video that said to always put it to the gnd or low side???
Hey... do you happen to know ??? I have a vista 15P panel. keypad shows low battery 57. What does that mean ? I don't think its a wireless zone . keypad maybe ?
So I have an alarm system setup but only my doors trigger the beeping when opened. All the windows in my house are hardwired but don’t beep when opened. What would I do to make those function? And which wires in my control panel would be for the windows?
Well, you'd want to make sure the wires for those windows are hooked up to the control panel. You can get a tone generator to use to trace the wires. If you discover that they are hooked up then you'd just need to make sure that the programming is set for those zones
A tone generator would be able to tell me which wires are wired to the windows? Also how would I get into the setup for those zones I’m almost positive the wires are connected to the panel
A tone generator would help trace the wire runs, yes. You can find some here - www.google.com/search?q=tone+generator&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwilmNH1877aAhUReKwKHcn5D98Q_AUICigB&biw=1440&bih=769
To get into the programming sections for that panel you'd need the installer code.
Would it be possible to use 2 sets of 18/2 wires and just run positive + negative + positive + negative on the keypad terminals? And if so, what order would the wires go on the keypad?
Yea, you could I suppose. Not best practice to do so, but the panel doesn't care what color the actual wires are as long as each terminates to the appropriate terminal on the other end.
@@AlarmSystemStore Does this mean (on the keypad) that terminals 1 and 3 are positive and 2 and 4 are negative?
@@trainknightt No not at all, there is only one + and -, the other two are data in this case. Polarity among all must be observed though end to end regardless of wire colors you use. The color of wire doesn't determine what goes down a given wire, what it's connected to does.
I have a problem with Honeywell Vista 20P.
Connection between Kickbar to Strobelight and connection to the cellphone
When the kickbar is kicked, the strobelight turns on and the connection to the cellphone sometimes connect and sometimes it can't. Almost probable it can’t
What is the problem and can anyone help us? Thank you
Can you add an outside key pad with this system?
I noticed on your alarm system aluminum enclosure, you have a contact switch if it's door is opened, where does that switch wire into?
And what is that switch called if I wish to purchase one?
Kevin Rea
Lancaster California USA
It is a cabinet tamper. They are out of stock at the moment, but they are here:
www.alarmsystemstore.com/products/gri-tsc-20-cabinet-tamper-plunger-switch
They can be connected to a zone or an or existing tamper circuit that some system have.
Hello; I am a subscriber, and owner of a Honeywell Vista alarm panel. Would you please answer a question for me? If the Vista panel alarm goes off, and the perp leaves an alarmed door open, how long will the alarm go off without a code being entered to disarm it?
This is set in programming
Is it hard to replace a door contact
is there a link to the mentioned resistor video by "Jason"
Sure! Here's the link - www.alarmsystemstore.com/pages/all-about-resistors
We'll go ahead and add it in the description here as well. Have a great day!
I assume the door contacts are normally close?
They are what people refer to as normally closed, yes. When the door or window is closed then the loop is completed. When the door or window is open then the loop is open causing and alarm or fault.
Hi. Great video. Have 2 questions. We just visited your website and noticed that you do tinker around with z-wave products. We implement a lot of 2GIG products, and for the most part, new installs are a breeze. But when taking over existing wired systems, we need to install 2GIG's takeover module. Keeping the current wired install in place, 2GIG's Takeover Kit requires only the zone wire to be removed, and leaving the COM still in the wired system.
With that being said, not all boards are the same. Google brought us here, because were taking over an existing home, who had ADT, and they have the WA3000 you have above. Same exact board. You mentioned 8/9 = Zone 1, 10/11 = Zone 2, 12/13 = Zone 3, 14/15 = Zone 4 and (Question 1) is it safe to say this is a 8 Zone board or otherwise, and can you list which terminals are the zones?
(Question 2), in your video, according to 2GIG's Takeover Module specs, removing the zone wire and keeping the COM in place, which terminal would be the Zone and which is the COM? In example 8/9 = Zone 1, would 8 be the Zone and 9 be the COM?
I hear a DSC keypad in the background!
No you don’t
@@heckeroffical3862 what
How you connect mini shock/vibration detector to your main box
Is it a hardwired device or a wireless device?
I think it should be better explained why exactly you only put a or many 2-wire smokes on zone 1.
Couldn't have said it better myself
Great video.
HELP HOW DO I CLEAR CODE 09 FROM MY KEYPAD.?
You missed wiring the keypad which appears to be crossed, but def has different language than the panel instructions.
Can you add a second motion sensor. If so is it a new zone or do you put them in the same one the current motion sensor is in? Sorry if question seems dumb I know nothing about alarm panels
Hardwired devices, like motion detectors, can be wired together on one zone. Since the motion detectors are normally closed in operation you'll wire them in series if putting more than one on a zone. Most people put wired devices one per zone for ease of troubleshooting. If you have more than one device per zone then if one goes bad you'll have to check the entire run to find out which one is giving trouble.
Por qué va haci??? No tienen continuidad la tarjeta con el gabinete
Yep
I am having installation and configuration problems. My house is prewired and an old Ademco ADT system was in place. Unfortunately, I didn't have the installer code and I can seem to reset the code using the back door method. It's possible that the panel was locked out. So I bought a new Vista-21ip, thinking that I can just reconnect everything and it should work. Unfortunately, it didn't go as planned at all. I do not have a smoke detector pre-wired. So I left Zone 1 empty. When the system booted up, I got two errors. One is "Check 103 LngRng Radio", the other is "Fire code 01". I can't seem to get into the installation model with [4112]+ 800. So I moved shifted all zone connections such that Zone 1 is now connected to a door sensor. When I boot up the system, the alarm triggers, showing 'Fire 01'. I am really stuck at this moment. Hoping someone can offer some advice. Much much appreciated!
Zone 1 needs a 2k resistor, it can be programmed out as well. Zone 1 can be used as a door or motion but has to be programmed as much and the 2k resistor needs to be " in line" on the loop. It's designed for 2 wire smoke detectors. Put a 2k across the terminals, they come with the panel.
The long range radio 103 is indicating that there is no internet connection and no resideo account established. Simply power down the panel and move the white jumper on the board. Now power up, You now have a glorified vista20.
If you can't get into programming, try this.
Power cycle the panel and hold the * and# keys simultaneously. If it's not locked out it will take you straight to sect 20. Then hit #20 and it will read out what the 4 digit installer code is.
I realize this post is a year old already but hope that helps.
What was the sensor that you were wiring into the door of the panel itself?
probably a tamper
Definitely some sort of a tamper. Curious as to what the actual part was. I'd love to install that on my panel.
It is a panel tamper:
www.alarmsystemstore.com/GRI-TSC-20-Cabinet-Tamper-Plunger-Switch-p/singlegri%20tsc-20.htm
They should have a factory installed tamper switch! But no! Let's add to the cost!
I hear that DSC beeping in the background.
it’s not DSC
What? No EOL relay for the 4 wire smoke? Power not being monitored, if the power goes out to the smoke detector it won't work, but the two wires going to the Zone will be not seeing any trouble, putting an EOL relay at the smoke detector or last one in the line, now you can monitor the power for when the relay trips out on the lack of power it will open connection at the EOL and cause a trouble on the zone..
We have another video that discusses that very thing. This video is just a basic wiring video that covers how most systems are installed. Unfortunately most people do not use EOL relays. As an installer I personally saw just as few installed by pros as well. In fact, even proper EOL usuage on burg zones was / is rare with the majority just putting them in the panel.
I have 6150
Honeywell
Thank you for not installing the resistors inside the can. Too many "instructional" videos show the EOL resistor in the can!
I'm replacing a GE system with a Admeco Vista 20. House is prewired and the resistors are in the panel. Why do they need to be at the device?
@@Timetaker1000 the panel reads resistance. therefore putting the resistor at the sensor (EOL) end of line, means that if a wire was cut, the panel would read "open circuit" or zero voltage & therefore Alarm. If there was a "short circuit" (join wires together - bypass resistance) the panel would read zero resistance or full voltage (12v) & therefore Alarm, because the resistor is at EOL. Now place the resistor at the panel ......... cut or short the wires anywhere between the panel & sensor, the panel will still read the resistance and not Alarm. Noting the resistor should be in series
So all this time and you don't plug it in and show that all the devices work!
haha "IS2535"
My smoke alarms are wireless. How do I silence the "Fire Trouble" error I get in my Tuxedo Keypad? Do I just connect 2k resistors across the board terminals for zones that are not wire connected?
What will happen if I reverse data in and data out for the keypad