The point of this video is that one can use Prusa and Cura slicers and others to easily find the correct layers and use the slicer to insert an M600 CHANGE FILAMENT gcode command. Please note that you can easily to this yourself with NOTEPAD or any other simple text editor. There are some pitfalls on the way. Once you insert the Cura change filaments you must remember to go back and delete the Change filament command or you will now see the CHANGE FILAMENT on every subsequent print until you first go crazy. The problem here is that the CHANGE FILAMENT message is identical to a FILAMENT RUNOUT error and if you are not prepared for the misleading message you may encounter a serious amount of anxiety. So my first recommendation to 3D Print manufacturers is to distinguish the CHANGE FILAMENT (software) message from the FILAMENT RUNOUT (hardware) message. Next if you decide to manually edit the gcode my recommendation is to add a M117 Please load the Gold Filament (or whatever other color you like) This should display the User Instruction on the LCD display. Unfortunately while this is clearly defined in the Marlin gcode instruction list, many 3D Printer manufacturers do not support this (ie my Snapmaker which does use Marlin totally ignores the M117 command and you never see the message. Next I like to edit the gcode myself and load in informative information that I can reference later. This includes a comment block header with Project name, part description, author, date, and notes about the specific gcode file. Finally there are other programs like Prusa Viewer and Superslicer which you may use to view the gcode part. And finally there is no substitute for great organization of all of your projects and files. I suggest a top down PROJECT folder with each project as drill down subfolders. I always keep the project folder on a specific work area on a work related disk or server. Then I use a project focused Thumb drive or SD card keeping exactly the same file structure. I try to be extremely consistent and predictable. And in conclusion it is more important that you pick up the elements that fit your style of work rather than mine, develop your work organizational style, and be consistent. This will help you enormously.
Does everything you print have to be a copy of something you found online? Can I draw out/ create my own things and turn them into the colors I want? Can you show a video example of you making something from scratch and then printing it please 😊
This was an awesome tutorial and I've been using cura for 3 years now but you have turned me to Prusaslicer. I had to modify my marlin to get it to work for the m600 command but I've encountered a bug that freezes the LCD screen at "Filament Change Please wait for prompt". It never leaves that screen and I have to switch the printer off, killing the print at the filament change. Has anyone encountered this issue before?
@@CrazyWillTechShowYou’re welcome, Will! I’ve bought my printer 2 weeks ago and today I’m just about to finish my first print with two different colours. Super easy, thanks to you, man!
Great Video... I'm completely new to 3D printing. Just got my Bambu Lab A1 mini delivered yesterday. I noticed the small Ironman helmet that you have on your desk. I would love to print one of those for my desk as well. Could you tell me where you got that STL file from and would it be printable on my A1 mini. All of the Ironman masks that I have found are close life size and I have not seen a printable version for the A1 mini as a download file. As I said, I'm completely new to 3D printing and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi William, Roel Dekker from the Netherlands here, Can you help me? I got a Creality CR6 SE 3D printer. If i do the same as you do in Cura my printer wont stop at a certain level. It will print the whole object instead of pause printing, so i can change the fillament and continue. If i choose the option pause printing than it will pause but i can't change the fillament because it says "you run out of fillament" and when i refill the fillament i cant start it up again. Please let me know what to do. Thnx in advance. Kind rgds, Roel Dekker the Netherlands.
I’m not familiar with that printer settings. But I would try looking up g code commands, that would work. I would say it’s either the G code or certain G code functions that are not enabled in the printer.
How do I make sure that the second color filament will stick properly to the first one? I tried printing your cube sample but the second color easy snapped off.
Thanks for the video!! For some reason my ender3 just ignores the script and goes all the way and finish the print. Any ideas? Should I update the firmware?? In that case, how do I do that? haha Thanks in advance
Very helpful! I use Cura and have the same printer, but when I’m changing colors I always seem to get a little blob extruded as it resumes the print. Ends up not looking like a smooth transition. Would you happen to know if there is a way to prevent that blob from happening when the printing resumes?
2 things that work for me. Wipe The nozzle (which you probably already did) and make sure when you’re changing the color you don’t move the z access not even a little bit. You could also check the temperature of the filament that you’re using.
@@CrazyWillTechShow haha apart from that, I used your technique and it perfectly worked for me, thanks a lot boss will be on the look out for more awesome contents and your other videos.
@@jurgenclaeys3366 looks like you need to update the firmware on your printer so you can added the M600 gcode script. www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/16l9c6h/neptune_4_pro_cura_filament_change/
Good filament and leveling the bed. You’ll alway have line with FDM printing. Here’s a video on how to smooth them out. ruclips.net/video/h2METhfTnTU/видео.htmlsi=zmWf5jm8DkfGircf . Another option is to get a resin 3-D printer. They print super smooth but not the strongest. I have videos on them as well.
It sounds like different printer settings. I've noticed that other printers don't use the same language sometimes. For example, on my Fokoos the stop command is different in the gcode so I have to change it... Manually.
This mans energy and knowledge... I am ready to learn just bought my printer today and have already made so many different things thx man
Thanks appreciate the support!
You're an excellent teacher. I just started 3d printing and I had no clue how to do multi-color prints.
Thank you so much 😊 with 3D printing you don’t stop learning.
The point of this video is that one can use Prusa and Cura slicers and others to easily find the correct layers and use the slicer to insert an M600 CHANGE FILAMENT gcode command. Please note that you can easily to this yourself with NOTEPAD or any other simple text editor. There are some pitfalls on the way. Once you insert the Cura change filaments you must remember to go back and delete the Change filament command or you will now see the CHANGE FILAMENT on every subsequent print until you first go crazy. The problem here is that the CHANGE FILAMENT message is identical to a FILAMENT RUNOUT error and if you are not prepared for the misleading message you may encounter a serious amount of anxiety. So my first recommendation to 3D Print manufacturers is to distinguish the CHANGE FILAMENT (software) message from the FILAMENT RUNOUT (hardware) message. Next if you decide to manually edit the gcode my recommendation is to add a
M117 Please load the Gold Filament (or whatever other color you like)
This should display the User Instruction on the LCD display. Unfortunately while this is clearly defined in the Marlin gcode instruction list, many 3D Printer manufacturers do not support this (ie my Snapmaker which does use Marlin totally ignores the M117 command and you never see the message. Next I like to edit the gcode myself and load in informative information that I can reference later. This includes a comment block header with Project name, part description, author, date, and notes about the specific gcode file.
Finally there are other programs like Prusa Viewer and Superslicer which you may use to view the gcode part. And finally there is no substitute for great organization of all of your projects and files. I suggest a top down PROJECT folder with each project as drill down subfolders. I always keep the project folder on a specific work area on a work related disk or server. Then I use a project focused Thumb drive or SD card keeping exactly the same file structure. I try to be extremely consistent and predictable. And in conclusion it is more important that you pick up the elements that fit your style of work rather than mine, develop your work organizational style, and be consistent. This will help you enormously.
This was actually pretty sick and informative, thank you!
Thanks I hope it was helpful 😁
Does everything you print have to be a copy of something you found online? Can I draw out/ create my own things and turn them into the colors I want? Can you show a video example of you making something from scratch and then printing it please 😊
I got you covered ruclips.net/video/pp4G9Ac4PUU/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
This was an awesome tutorial and I've been using cura for 3 years now but you have turned me to Prusaslicer. I had to modify my marlin to get it to work for the m600 command but I've encountered a bug that freezes the LCD screen at "Filament Change Please wait for prompt". It never leaves that screen and I have to switch the printer off, killing the print at the filament change. Has anyone encountered this issue before?
What printer are using?
Crazy Will deserves crazy sub! Thanks a lot man!
Thanks for the sub!
@@CrazyWillTechShowYou’re welcome, Will! I’ve bought my printer 2 weeks ago and today I’m just about to finish my first print with two different colours. Super easy, thanks to you, man!
Great Video... I'm completely new to 3D printing. Just got my Bambu Lab A1 mini delivered yesterday. I noticed the small Ironman helmet that you have on your desk. I would love to print one of those for my desk as well. Could you tell me where you got that STL file from and would it be printable on my A1 mini. All of the Ironman masks that I have found are close life size and I have not seen a printable version for the A1 mini as a download file. As I said, I'm completely new to 3D printing and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the 3-D printing club! You’re gonna love it. You should be able to print it. Here the file www.thingiverse.com/thing:4221435
Hi William, Roel Dekker from the Netherlands here, Can you help me? I got a Creality CR6 SE 3D printer.
If i do the same as you do in Cura my printer wont stop at a certain level.
It will print the whole object instead of pause printing, so i can change the fillament and continue.
If i choose the option pause printing than it will pause but i can't change the fillament because it says "you run out of fillament" and when i refill the fillament i cant start it up again.
Please let me know what to do.
Thnx in advance.
Kind rgds,
Roel Dekker the Netherlands.
I’m not familiar with that printer settings. But I would try looking up g code commands, that would work. I would say it’s either the G code or certain G code functions that are not enabled in the printer.
How do I make sure that the second color filament will stick properly to the first one? I tried printing your cube sample but the second color easy snapped off.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for this video. I just started 3d printing and didn't have a frickin' clue how to make something with different colors!
That's awesome man. I'm glad I'm a part of your journey. 3-D printing is highly addictive!
clear, informative and cool! thanks man, helped me out alot!
There a lot of fun to print. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video!! For some reason my ender3 just ignores the script and goes all the way and finish the print. Any ideas? Should I update the firmware?? In that case, how do I do that? haha Thanks in advance
That weird I have older ender 3 I would try some experiments and see why it doing that. What song are you using?
Bro. Thank you. I was about to give up. My painting is so weak I have no time to put into learning painting techniques.
Def earned a sub. Appreciate you!
Glad I could help
What beds are those??? The material seems nice it's not sticking
Glass bed got them off Amazon.
a very well made and informative tutorial!
Thank you!
Very helpful! I use Cura and have the same printer, but when I’m changing colors I always seem to get a little blob extruded as it resumes the print. Ends up not looking like a smooth transition. Would you happen to know if there is a way to prevent that blob from happening when the printing resumes?
2 things that work for me. Wipe The nozzle (which you probably already did) and make sure when you’re changing the color you don’t move the z access not even a little bit. You could also check the temperature of the filament that you’re using.
Gave that a try and it worked out! Thank you so much! 😎
amazing and helpful but why the noisy background
Thanks for your video it finaly made clear to me how to multi color my 3d prints
Glad it helped!
very clear and informative, thank you.
Thank you for the feedback, means a lot.
05:00 seriously that was one of the most creative subscribe reminder ever Hats off Boss😂
Lol thanks
@@CrazyWillTechShow haha apart from that, I used your technique and it perfectly worked for me, thanks a lot boss will be on the look out for more awesome contents and your other videos.
Still after 4 years of owning my Ender3, I still have not done this, but I will definitely try it soon.
It’s really cool 😎
@@CrazyWillTechShow yea definitely.
Have done everything as you mentioned in your video on cura but my printer does not stop on the line set in the slicer . How do I solve this?
What printer are you using?
@@CrazyWillTechShow Neptune 4 pro
@@jurgenclaeys3366 looks like you need to update the firmware on your printer so you can added the M600 gcode script.
www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/16l9c6h/neptune_4_pro_cura_filament_change/
Thank you for the tutorials..this is just awesome..👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks really hope it helped.
What about if you have a direct drive? Is it easy to remove without moving the z offset?
Direct drives better because you have a dual z access motor. Less movement.
Now THAT is a "subscribe!" midroll animation :)) 5:00
I went so quickly from "uuuuughhh Apple computer......." to "DAMN, GUY! :D"
lol
How do you get it to not make those line? Like smooth it out?
Good filament and leveling the bed. You’ll alway have line with FDM printing. Here’s a video on how to smooth them out. ruclips.net/video/h2METhfTnTU/видео.htmlsi=zmWf5jm8DkfGircf . Another option is to get a resin 3-D printer. They print super smooth but not the strongest. I have videos on them as well.
@@CrazyWillTechShow Alright, thank you for the reply!
Can I do this with elegoo?
😬 not really liquid
If i do it with plusaslicer it always doesnt work fine if i put the file into the programm flashprinz to Print it with my adventure 3
It sounds like different printer settings. I've noticed that other printers don't use the same language sometimes. For example, on my Fokoos the stop command is different in the gcode so I have to change it... Manually.
why do you have a file called deadpool bust remastered
I don't know I just downloaded off of thingiverse.com.... I think that's what it was called. People do that a lot on that site.
Great vid
Thanks
this is exhausting, im saving up for a bambu
lol me too
What about a figure standing up?
That’s a little more complicated
Ugh.. the overly loud music.....