did a 6 part series six months ago rebuilding my heavy offset disc. lots of real work involved with a disc rebuild. I enjoyed your video. thanks for making it...
Just a tip friend, task some acetone and transmission fluid mix 50/50 and put in a soda bottle with a tiny hole in the lid. It's cheap and tons better than wd40 or pb blaster love your channel
truckinmachine truckinmachine .... well said sir. I used to buy some stuff that was basically transmission fluid but now that you say it I'm going to mix some acetone and transmission fluid. I don't know why transmission fluid is so good but it does work quite well
Your doing it the hard way, I always broke the nuts loose before I took the gangs off. Makes it a lot easer to hold the gang still for one guy to do this job by his self. I really hate it when your pulling hard on a pipe when the nut pops and you feel it in your hands , And boy does it sting ! LOL I hope the rest of it goes smooth for you guys. Bandit
You bring up a great point, and it vaguely crossed my mind, but seemed out of order. I'll tel you one thing. I am glad this disc has square axles so you can grip a pipe wrench anywhere. That 230 Ford disc has round axles, and you need a special tool to hold the axle at the opposite end.
I've broke a couple of pipe wrenches over the years braking the nuts loose on a disk gang. I've found a wire wheel on a drill cleaning the threads out makes a big difference getting them loose and good old PB Blaster ! But sometimes it takes some help from Mr. Fire Wrench to get them to come off. My uncle had a guy at champion bridge cut him some 3/4 plate into square and hex nut sizes just to make wrenches out of them and welded a 4 foot pipe to them just for taking nuts off of disks, They sure came in handy more than a time or two ! LOL I really don't like the disks with round axels in them, You just cant get them tight enough. They tend to work loose easer than all the others. I have a question to ask you, Do you put the disk gang together with it laying down on the ground or do you put it together with the gang standing up ? It makes a difference. Bandit
I did, now, I do not. Everything is within five miles now. Everything big enough for a 4wd tractor to turn around in with a 24 row planter has the rent ran up so high.. I'm not the most picky when small fields come up at lower cost.
Rural King. The stores around us have discontinued stocking them. But, one store in a less rural area still has 100 of them, all from the day the store opened four years ago. And they are $7.03. They won't move them to the clearance aisle because of weight, and they are still marked original price, except for the in the computer.
If not for that deal, I am not sure we'd be replacing blades right now. They are close to $30 from anyone else. SO by the time we get news, I could just buy another less used disc.
@@boehmfarm4276 Hope they hold up for you, particularly if you have rocks... IMHO when it comes to disk blades, you get what you pay for, particularly in tough conditions... The Cadillac of disk blades is the "Earth Metal" by CIH-- my BIL uses them but they ARE salty... BUT they also outlast every other blade by at least 2:1, so that brings a LOT of value compared to cheap blades that wear off twice as fast... PLUS in rocks they just shrug off damage that would fold cheaper blades into a taco shell or snap them in half... looks like some of those on your disk had a run in with something they didn't like... He's got a LOT of rocks in northern Indiana on his farm, so it's well worth it to him to pay for the Earth Metal blades; he had cheaper ones before and was busting or cracking one just about daily, switched to Earth Metal and IIRC he told me he's never broken one since... Worn out a couple sets, but never broken one... OL J R :)
What's the advantage of a larger combine??? Bigger is better right? Bigger blades have more weight to sink in and could cut deeper. I think a bigger blade would have more curve to it: The blades are spherical, so if they use the same spherical dimensions for a 20" as a 22", the 22s will have more curve for more dirt throwing action. Compared to the old blades, the new ones are thicker, so they won't crack like the worn one will.
Smaller worn down disk blades just don't penetrate the soil properly... they don't cut well, they don't cut through residue well, they don't turn and mix the soil well. New sharp blades slice easily through residue and cut into the soil better and deeper, and do a better job at turning and mixing the soil so you do a better job disking. Plus a newer blade is quite a bit heavier because not only is it going to be bigger around, but also thicker-- you can't see the steel worn off the front and back faces of the blade which makes them substantially thinner... this adds a LOT of weight to the disk which makes it penetrate into the soil much better as well. Later! OL J R :)
Front blades wear first ,they got a harder job to do then back blades . Someone told me disk pack the ground ? That's why you see them on road construction sites. Field cultivators are supposed to lift the ground and dry it out . Maybe someone come up with answer See you in next video
My agronomy professor tried to tell me that. I still don't buy it. If you disc fast enough, it will throw dirt around too. Construction has their rippers on the back of bulldozers, which it a heavy cultivator.....
Meh that's what they SAY... basically ANYTHING that moves IN or ON the soil causes compaction... supposedly as the disk blade slices in and shoves the soil sideways, it causes compaction, or the back of the disk blade rubbing against the furrow wall causes compaction... BUT so does a cultivator shovel or moldboard plow share, or chisel point on a disk ripper or chisel plow... Basically when you're tilling you're forcing steel into the soil and where the steel displaces the soil because it's being forced THROUGH it you could "call" compaction. Even "vertical tillage" or coulters are basically causing compaction because the blades are being forced down into the soil. Dig a soil pit in a field worked by cultivators over the years there'll be a plow pan where the shovels smeared the soil under the shovel as it ripped up the soil above the shovel. Same thing as "plow pan" with a moldboard plow. Same thing with chisel plows which can end up following the same furrows over time and compacting not only the bottom layer of soil under the point of the chisel blade but the sides of the trench it digs as well. It's all well documented, and usually used as sales fodder by whatever company to promote whatever it is they're selling LOL:) Compaction, like everything else, has to be MANAGED by changing types of depth of tillage, directions, etc. and working the soil at the proper conditions, not too wet or too dry, etc. Later! OL J R :)
Boehmwow the first nut she turned to easy and last that how it should have sounded with cricking sound and use the grunting sound well could have had to cut them off so that was a good thing.
We've had issues with the bigger gangs coming loose. I figure those have all been replaced over the years and the new axles are stretching. The wings I think could be original.
Boehmwow she has been rep[aced over the years yes but to have everything else original you have been lucky for rocks are of course hard on the disk good video.
I find the work to be less monotonous and much more tolerable with a little music in the background. Don't know if you guys do that although I don't ever hear it playing in the background...maybe because you are trying to make a video??
Ugh... can't stand the radio grinding when I'm working... unless I'm about to fall asleep and getting punchy, then I'll turn it on to keep me awake. I don't even use the radio in a tractor or vehicle unless I'm about to fall asleep. Later! OL J R :)
Thanks for letting me relive my youth, we had a 14 ft international that we did the same. Great video...
We're glad you like it. IH made a solid disc and many of them still survive.
did a 6 part series six months ago rebuilding my heavy offset disc. lots of real work involved with a disc rebuild. I enjoyed your video. thanks for making it...
Tightening all the axle bolts takes some muscle, or a big bar for leverage. I'll have to watch it.
Wasn't being a jerk that is how I start all my repair jobs. Love your videos.
Thanks you, We're glad you like them.
Just a tip friend, task some acetone and transmission fluid mix 50/50 and put in a soda bottle with a tiny hole in the lid. It's cheap and tons better than wd40 or pb blaster love your channel
I have never heard of that. I will have to try it. Thank you
truckinmachine truckinmachine .... well said sir. I used to buy some stuff that was basically transmission fluid but now that you say it I'm going to mix some acetone and transmission fluid. I don't know why transmission fluid is so good but it does work quite well
I have invested in torque multiplier tool which helps for those kinds of things where i cant get torch heat or big impact
Yeah... I have thought about those.
Need to find a torch and add heat. Makes that job soooo much easier.
Little pb blaster goes a long ways!
Your doing it the hard way, I always broke the nuts loose before I took the gangs off. Makes it a lot easer to hold the gang still for one guy to do this job by his self. I really hate it when your pulling hard on a pipe when the nut pops and you feel it in your hands , And boy does it sting ! LOL I hope the rest of it goes smooth for you guys. Bandit
You bring up a great point, and it vaguely crossed my mind, but seemed out of order. I'll tel you one thing. I am glad this disc has square axles so you can grip a pipe wrench anywhere. That 230 Ford disc has round axles, and you need a special tool to hold the axle at the opposite end.
I've broke a couple of pipe wrenches over the years braking the nuts loose on a disk gang. I've found a wire wheel on a drill cleaning the threads out makes a big difference getting them loose and good old PB Blaster ! But sometimes it takes some help from Mr. Fire Wrench to get them to come off. My uncle had a guy at champion bridge cut him some 3/4 plate into square and hex nut sizes just to make wrenches out of them and welded a 4 foot pipe to them just for taking nuts off of disks, They sure came in handy more than a time or two ! LOL I really don't like the disks with round axels in them, You just cant get them tight enough. They tend to work loose easer than all the others. I have a question to ask you, Do you put the disk gang together with it laying down on the ground or do you put it together with the gang standing up ? It makes a difference. Bandit
My only concern is the frame getting in the way, but we shall see.
Bandit farmer i
Nice video. And nice disk! We have a 13' IH
Thank you, it has covered some ground in its life.
Need to put liquid wrench on those bolts or penetrating oil - suggestion only
Or FIre wrench.
your going far for land !! holy
I did, now, I do not. Everything is within five miles now. Everything big enough for a 4wd tractor to turn around in with a 24 row planter has the rent ran up so high.. I'm not the most picky when small fields come up at lower cost.
that will be nice set of disc when ur done.
Thank, and of course, we'll have a video show how well much better it works with new blades.
oh the joy, i gotta do this to my jd kba. well i guess itll be a restoration
I was hoping for more restorative efforts on ours, but then we've no good place inside for it. Good luck
Where's Nick? 😁
This video was from the peaceful and quiet time before Nick
Where did you get your new disc blades? I have a 12 ft. IH model 37 disc, not much difference between it and yours.
Rural King. The stores around us have discontinued stocking them. But, one store in a less rural area still has 100 of them, all from the day the store opened four years ago. And they are $7.03. They won't move them to the clearance aisle because of weight, and they are still marked original price, except for the in the computer.
Boehm Farm That's cheap for 20" disc blades.
If not for that deal, I am not sure we'd be replacing blades right now. They are close to $30 from anyone else. SO by the time we get news, I could just buy another less used disc.
@@boehmfarm4276 Hope they hold up for you, particularly if you have rocks... IMHO when it comes to disk blades, you get what you pay for, particularly in tough conditions... The Cadillac of disk blades is the "Earth Metal" by CIH-- my BIL uses them but they ARE salty... BUT they also outlast every other blade by at least 2:1, so that brings a LOT of value compared to cheap blades that wear off twice as fast... PLUS in rocks they just shrug off damage that would fold cheaper blades into a taco shell or snap them in half... looks like some of those on your disk had a run in with something they didn't like... He's got a LOT of rocks in northern Indiana on his farm, so it's well worth it to him to pay for the Earth Metal blades; he had cheaper ones before and was busting or cracking one just about daily, switched to Earth Metal and IIRC he told me he's never broken one since... Worn out a couple sets, but never broken one... OL J R :)
What's the advantage of having larger discs? Also, it would probably ruin your day if one of those gangs fell on your foot ☺
What's the advantage of a larger combine??? Bigger is better right? Bigger blades have more weight to sink in and could cut deeper. I think a bigger blade would have more curve to it: The blades are spherical, so if they use the same spherical dimensions for a 20" as a 22", the 22s will have more curve for more dirt throwing action. Compared to the old blades, the new ones are thicker, so they won't crack like the worn one will.
Smaller worn down disk blades just don't penetrate the soil properly... they don't cut well, they don't cut through residue well, they don't turn and mix the soil well. New sharp blades slice easily through residue and cut into the soil better and deeper, and do a better job at turning and mixing the soil so you do a better job disking. Plus a newer blade is quite a bit heavier because not only is it going to be bigger around, but also thicker-- you can't see the steel worn off the front and back faces of the blade which makes them substantially thinner... this adds a LOT of weight to the disk which makes it penetrate into the soil much better as well. Later! OL J R :)
well, they aren't torqued to 1200 ft lb like some of the newer disks are.
That's tight!!! With our extender bar, I wonder if we are close???
Boehm Farm I know that 6 ft pipe with 75lb on the end will be about 450ft lb, at least that's what old John deere disk manual said.
Saving a lot of money on labor doing the repairs for yourself
The only outsourced fixing we have is injection pumps.
Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact 1400 foot pounds.
Front blades wear first ,they got a harder job to do then back blades . Someone told me disk pack the ground ? That's why you see them on road construction sites. Field cultivators are supposed to lift the ground and dry it out . Maybe someone come up with answer See you in next video
My agronomy professor tried to tell me that. I still don't buy it. If you disc fast enough, it will throw dirt around too. Construction has their rippers on the back of bulldozers, which it a heavy cultivator.....
Meh that's what they SAY... basically ANYTHING that moves IN or ON the soil causes compaction... supposedly as the disk blade slices in and shoves the soil sideways, it causes compaction, or the back of the disk blade rubbing against the furrow wall causes compaction... BUT so does a cultivator shovel or moldboard plow share, or chisel point on a disk ripper or chisel plow... Basically when you're tilling you're forcing steel into the soil and where the steel displaces the soil because it's being forced THROUGH it you could "call" compaction. Even "vertical tillage" or coulters are basically causing compaction because the blades are being forced down into the soil.
Dig a soil pit in a field worked by cultivators over the years there'll be a plow pan where the shovels smeared the soil under the shovel as it ripped up the soil above the shovel. Same thing as "plow pan" with a moldboard plow. Same thing with chisel plows which can end up following the same furrows over time and compacting not only the bottom layer of soil under the point of the chisel blade but the sides of the trench it digs as well. It's all well documented, and usually used as sales fodder by whatever company to promote whatever it is they're selling LOL:)
Compaction, like everything else, has to be MANAGED by changing types of depth of tillage, directions, etc. and working the soil at the proper conditions, not too wet or too dry, etc. Later! OL J R :)
Is that y'alls sprayer in the background?
Yes, this will be our second year with it.
Boehm Farm nice, how many gallons is it?
200,
36ft. wide.
Boehmwow the first nut she turned to easy and last that how it should have sounded with cricking sound and use the grunting sound well could have had to cut them off so that was a good thing.
We've had issues with the bigger gangs coming loose. I figure those have all been replaced over the years and the new axles are stretching. The wings I think could be original.
Boehmwow she has been rep[aced over the years yes but to have everything else original you have been lucky for rocks are of course hard on the disk good video.
I would spray some lube on every bolt and nut at least a before o tackle that job
Brad WD40'ed a few bolts he loosened. I did it dry.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
I find the work to be less monotonous and much more tolerable with a little music in the background. Don't know if you guys do that although I don't ever hear it playing in the background...maybe because you are trying to make a video??
Ugh... can't stand the radio grinding when I'm working... unless I'm about to fall asleep and getting punchy, then I'll turn it on to keep me awake. I don't even use the radio in a tractor or vehicle unless I'm about to fall asleep. Later! OL J R :)
Eddy 40 défripent