I use a Columbia tube and love it, I do agree the flat applicator for taping flats isn’t ideal and just recently bought a banjo to see the difference. It’s still better than hand taping for me as a non pro. What I do like the flat applicator for is putting on my second coat before I blade off and it’s way fast for me. I’m also using the flat applicator on each side of my corners second coat because I can lay more mud quickly. As always a great video and always thank you for showing what works and doesn’t work for you.
I like using the compound tube. I use fibafuse for all my flats. In my opinion, it is the best product for taping flats. Easy to cut, dries faster, coats easier. For angles I use the tube with paper on inside corners and corner beads on the outside. Way less mess than the slop box. I haven't used the super taper. It looks great though.
I've been using a supertaper for years. It has it's pros and cons. I've never tried using my compound tube for flats but was thinking about getting a flat applicator. What I have found is that taping angles with the tube is a bunch faster, at least for me. But that could be because I roll them and use an angle head instead of a flusher. When I used a flusher the supertaper was great, but since I changed over to the roller/angle head I find the tape stretches too much and I wind up with a mess at the ends. One little tip: since you prefill your butts anyway, why not tape them at the same time? I use fiba fuse on my butts because it lays out flatter and I don't have as much of a hump to deal with. For me that eliminates a step and allows me to tape my flats without worrying about the butts. I also prefill my flats, at least on the walls and do the same thing with them. I stick mesh to the joint and then prefill with dura bond and first coat all in one. The trouble is I don't 100% trust mesh tape. I've had to fix too many jobs done by others where it failed. So I'll still get out the supertaper for ceiling flats. I was concerned about centering the tape with a flat applicator. You're supposed to let your thumb stick out and feel the joint to find it. But since I prefill I can't do that. After watching you I'll probably take a pass on the flat applicator. Thanks!
Your vids are awesome “vancouver drywall guy” your tips are always appreciated! I think I’ve only seen trim for the carpentry end but the ca glue has changed my life for the last 5 years or whenever it came out!
I'm starting to use a compound tube for taping but I like Fibafuse. So it's putting on the right amount of mud to fill the taper joints. A bit much on butts yes, but still with Fibefuse it's not a problem. I can definitely see the issue with paper tape though. Mostly started using a tube for inside corners with roller and flushers instead of the hand work.
Super taper all the way, I know many guys that use a lambs wool corner roller to apply the mud on angles and hand tape that way. I do it sometimes too. Cheers from Ontario.
Over here in New Zealand we don't used the paper anymore to do the joins, the paper is just for the internal corners, the joins we have a fibreglass tape..
from watching other drywall crew videos a would say that automated tools were not always designed to be used solo. 1 guy applying mud, another taping and a third (possibly) wiping down. Thus a 2/3 man crew could do a whole room in less time than an individual could or even a crew taping by hand. that being said I've seen some pretty fast tradesmen using a variety of techniques and if you have a method that works for you then why change?
Am I missing something, or did you not also do a video on using a banjo for taping? If you didn't (and I'm losing it completely), have you used them, and if you have, would you say they fall between this and your preferred method? I used one of the old, old school metal ones when I first got into the trades, and they were okay, but left something to be desired in terms of performance. About two years ago got turned on to the Delko Zunder banjo, and it's amazing! My first one actually got stolen (along with my box truck and the rest of my tools), and was replaced with a knockoff clone, but I've found no difference in the two. I think I paid $150 USD for mine, and $75 USD for the clone. It's saved me boatloads of time, but I can still see that the weakness it has is the reservoir for mud. That's why, IMO, your preferred method would beat a banjo in certain scenarios, but the mess would likely be less with a banjo, which could sometimes be more beneficial... I'd imagine the size of the project would be the greatest determining factor. Anyway, I love your content, as always! Thanks for being such an awesome guy!
I've heard of this method before, I preferer the super taper by a mile. I tend to only work on small rooms and areas so taping by hand is often the way I go about it!
In the trades there’s always somebody better faster and smarter than you. But the older I got the less I cared except for gleaning something new. I always had work ahead of me to do. Gods do walk the earth it seems. I remember so many drunken tirades as the bragging started. Often thier work lacked.
I use the mud tube with the better than ever 4 in app and i find it at least twice as fast as taping by hand . to be successful with it have to wipe out with a bigger knife so dont have to keep goin back the pan or hawk( i use) and can go farther especially on the ceilings. as for mud being wet prior to putting on wall dont think makes one big of difference when wipe out the mud especially all purpose green will stick to it and almost anything. watching u pump out def need more practice need to do a continuous bead of mud with it and need to run it out dont hesitate jmo
Why wouldn’t you anchor the edge of the tape a little bit by wiping it to hold it while you lay the tape down on the rest of the joint so it doesn’t move… You can move away quicker that way… Just curious
reminds me of those paint edging tool that you see advertised on TV, if you are skilled with a brush (which a painter should be) then you don't need one. This tools seems to fall into that category and more work than it saves.
Ben, not related to this video, but my skim coat with all purpose mud keeps on flaking off onto my roller when I paint it....I waited 2 weeks to paint it. This keeps happening to me!!!
I had something similar happen once. I think it was due to the mud being too dry when applied. This can happen if you are applying mud over a dusty wall. As to apply, them scrape off the excess you are mixing the dust into the mud in you pan and drying it out. It's better to have the mud a little wet than too dry.
I am trying to fix a hump in a butt joint that the guys left. Is it possible to sand down to first layer of mud and float out from there. They put a lot of mud in the center.
Hey Ben, I bought a super taper and man it was messy! But the results and speed were fantastic. The tape lays super flat and using a corner roller i see why you scoff at the bango guys. I tape a 3000 sq foot home, in a day with the super taper. So money well spent. Thanks again for all the content. I even mud framed a wall recently with a darby and 3 sacks of 5 minute mud. Had the craziest bow. Thanks again
We tape the smooth wall with the tape flat on it and not onto the textured surface. Then we run a bead of good quality acrylic caulking in the corner ( not the $1.98 a tube Dap).
@@huejanus5505 the ceiling is already up and I’ll be adding walls in the basement, I’m wondering across the whole ceiling angle. To tape the ceiling angle do you need to remove or fill the texture?
@@philwell76 If you want to tape the textured ceiling to wall joint you’ll have to remove the texturing, if you don’t you’ll have a lumpy mess on your hands. If you make the gap between the wall and ceiling small enough, about 1/8” or smaller, you can just caulk it, with good acrylic caulk. Even a good, paintable exterior caulking would work. Removing and redoing the edges of the texturing can be long and difficult to rematch, removing it from the whole ceiling can be a lot of work, plus the replastering. I’m not sure how many extra hours you want to put into the project or if you really don’t like the texturing to begin with, but the choice is yours. If you just caulk the joint between ceiling and wall, very small bead of caulking, you can at a later date decide to remove the texturing and tape it properly. Most baseboards, door and window frames are caulked to get rid of the gaps as well.
Chalking fails 10-20 years. I find you can get perfect 90s with tape. But there are times where i do just chalk the corners in a low budget renovation. Or if times a factor or im trying save the texture and paint on the wall
If you want to go faster than what you think is the fastest method try using fiber mesh tape instead of that antiquated toilet paper method!. That's 100 times faster than the messy paper mache method.
He has, and gave his critique of methods here (essentially giving himself the mocking comments he was expecting to get, and his rebuttals): ruclips.net/video/sB81c_tV9ow/видео.html
Thanks for you sharing your knowledge in all these videos! I wish I would have paid more attention to my dad through the years but that ship has sailed. Very grateful for the detail you go in to and showing the dos and don'ts. Alot of videos like this cut things out to make things look easy and perfect but I really like your style!
I have a question, some tapers wet the paper tape before they apply it, i have seen the little water trays that go on your belt and i have even seen an entire roll of tape just dropped in a bucket of water, I have tried the wet paper and find that it is just too messy really thins my mud, but what are your thoughts?
Don't bother wetting the tape, mix your mud a bit looser when your taping. Wetting the tape reduces it's adhesion to the wall, Ben has a great video on this subject! Don't be afraid of the bubbles, they rarely happen and are very easy to fix.
While that's the preferred method for many (if you can cough up the $$), he said that he found them difficult to use.: ruclips.net/video/sB81c_tV9ow/видео.html
It all depends on the size of the job. The finishers that I have met at work, love it and kinda hate it. Mostly because of the level of cleaning it requires. So they have told me if the job is big, the bazooka is the must-go tool, it's fast is pretty clean on the joints. But if the job is small it's not worth it, due to the time they will spend cleaning the tool so they can use it next job.
I'm certainly a novice when it comes to drywall repair, but when I apply mud to a joint and lay my paper down, it sometimes bubbles or the edges lift when it starts to dry. What am I doing wrong when that happens?
I'm far from the world's best drywall finisher, but if the edges are lifting or you're getting bubbling there are two possible causes as I see it: 1. The tape isn't being pushed into the bedding mud well enough. (I consider this unlikely but possible.) 2. You are either not applying enough of a bed or you're wiping out too much of the bedding. Either way you are leaving nothing for the tape to stick to. (Having done this myself a number of times I consider this the more likely option.)
He has videos on this problem of bubbles, etc. Check his site. Other reasons he mentions is mud too dry to start with, or sits too long before tape applied. Fibra fuse virtually eliminates this particular problem. I use it on all repairs with hot set mud.
There is adjustments for them applicators to control that loose. Ur jaw would drop watching me, u've obviously not been shown how to run this cheap & highly effeciant tool. ( No offense). I never give my tips experience away it took Way too many years of labour to master.
I use a Columbia tube and love it, I do agree the flat applicator for taping flats isn’t ideal and just recently bought a banjo to see the difference. It’s still better than hand taping for me as a non pro. What I do like the flat applicator for is putting on my second coat before I blade off and it’s way fast for me. I’m also using the flat applicator on each side of my corners second coat because I can lay more mud quickly.
As always a great video and always thank you for showing what works and doesn’t work for you.
I like using the compound tube. I use fibafuse for all my flats. In my opinion, it is the best product for taping flats. Easy to cut, dries faster, coats easier. For angles I use the tube with paper on inside corners and corner beads on the outside. Way less mess than the slop box. I haven't used the super taper. It looks great though.
I've been using a supertaper for years. It has it's pros and cons. I've never tried using my compound tube for flats but was thinking about getting a flat applicator. What I have found is that taping angles with the tube is a bunch faster, at least for me. But that could be because I roll them and use an angle head instead of a flusher. When I used a flusher the supertaper was great, but since I changed over to the roller/angle head I find the tape stretches too much and I wind up with a mess at the ends. One little tip: since you prefill your butts anyway, why not tape them at the same time? I use fiba fuse on my butts because it lays out flatter and I don't have as much of a hump to deal with. For me that eliminates a step and allows me to tape my flats without worrying about the butts. I also prefill my flats, at least on the walls and do the same thing with them. I stick mesh to the joint and then prefill with dura bond and first coat all in one. The trouble is I don't 100% trust mesh tape. I've had to fix too many jobs done by others where it failed. So I'll still get out the supertaper for ceiling flats.
I was concerned about centering the tape with a flat applicator. You're supposed to let your thumb stick out and feel the joint to find it. But since I prefill I can't do that. After watching you I'll probably take a pass on the flat applicator. Thanks!
Your vids are awesome “vancouver drywall guy” your tips are always appreciated! I think I’ve only seen trim for the carpentry end but the ca glue has changed my life for the last 5 years or whenever it came out!
"Paper ma^she' for adults!!" ... love it, well said. BC is the place to be!
I'm starting to use a compound tube for taping but I like Fibafuse. So it's putting on the right amount of mud to fill the taper joints. A bit much on butts yes, but still with Fibefuse it's not a problem. I can definitely see the issue with paper tape though. Mostly started using a tube for inside corners with roller and flushers instead of the hand work.
:) Preparing my home renovation watching Ben and RenoVision
My 2 favorite RUclipsrs
@@theoutdoorbeast6423 I like those too. Stud Pack, izzy swan, funny carpenter are also quite good.
How to know someone had a fight with the tool : "This is NOT linked in the comments below, if you want to find one, go find it." XD
Super taper all the way, I know many guys that use a lambs wool corner roller to apply the mud on angles and hand tape that way. I do it sometimes too. Cheers from Ontario.
I agree with everything you said, especially that it leaves too much mud.
I'd like to see you try a banjo and give your thoughts on it.
I like using the banjo for taping with fibafuse and tape with fastset
I tape with fast set and a banjo. It worked for me.
Over here in New Zealand we don't used the paper anymore to do the joins, the paper is just for the internal corners, the joins we have a fibreglass tape..
what about a Banjo? that seems popular around these parts
you should try a Banjo, my preferred method for corners and flats
Yeah it’s a stupid adapter. I run a bazooka, but we use the mud tube with a inside corner applicator with flusher to run Level Line on verticals.
Great job Mr. Ben, thank you for sharing, keep safe
from watching other drywall crew videos a would say that automated tools were not always designed to be used solo. 1 guy applying mud, another taping and a third (possibly) wiping down. Thus a 2/3 man crew could do a whole room in less time than an individual could or even a crew taping by hand. that being said I've seen some pretty fast tradesmen using a variety of techniques and if you have a method that works for you then why change?
I find it easier to wipe tape with a 8 inch. It’s stiff enough and don’t have to make to many trips to pan or hawk. Thanks for the demo on the tube.
Am I missing something, or did you not also do a video on using a banjo for taping? If you didn't (and I'm losing it completely), have you used them, and if you have, would you say they fall between this and your preferred method?
I used one of the old, old school metal ones when I first got into the trades, and they were okay, but left something to be desired in terms of performance. About two years ago got turned on to the Delko Zunder banjo, and it's amazing! My first one actually got stolen (along with my box truck and the rest of my tools), and was replaced with a knockoff clone, but I've found no difference in the two. I think I paid $150 USD for mine, and $75 USD for the clone.
It's saved me boatloads of time, but I can still see that the weakness it has is the reservoir for mud. That's why, IMO, your preferred method would beat a banjo in certain scenarios, but the mess would likely be less with a banjo, which could sometimes be more beneficial... I'd imagine the size of the project would be the greatest determining factor.
Anyway, I love your content, as always! Thanks for being such an awesome guy!
I've heard of this method before, I preferer the super taper by a mile. I tend to only work on small rooms and areas so taping by hand is often the way I go about it!
IM here learning even though Im not builder.
In the trades there’s always somebody better faster and smarter than you. But the older I got the less I cared except for gleaning something new. I always had work ahead of me to do. Gods do walk the earth it seems. I remember so many drunken tirades as the bragging started. Often thier work lacked.
I use the mud tube with the better than ever 4 in app and i find it at least twice as fast as taping by hand . to be successful with it have to wipe out with a bigger knife so dont have to keep goin back the pan or hawk( i use) and can go farther especially on the ceilings. as for mud being wet prior to putting on wall dont think makes one big of difference when wipe out the mud especially all purpose green will stick to it and almost anything. watching u pump out def need more practice need to do a continuous bead of mud with it and need to run it out dont hesitate jmo
Canadians love that slop box method.
Why wouldn’t you anchor the edge of the tape a little bit by wiping it to hold it while you lay the tape down on the rest of the joint so it doesn’t move… You can move away quicker that way… Just curious
reminds me of those paint edging tool that you see advertised on TV, if you are skilled with a brush (which a painter should be) then you don't need one. This tools seems to fall into that category and more work than it saves.
"It's a drywall squishy mud thing." Hahahahaha 😜
I love it when someone uses engineering terms
Is the applicator directional? When it is full of mud on it, how to tell the direction?
Ben, not related to this video, but my skim coat with all purpose mud keeps on flaking off onto my roller when I paint it....I waited 2 weeks to paint it. This keeps happening to me!!!
I had something similar happen once. I think it was due to the mud being too dry when applied. This can happen if you are applying mud over a dusty wall. As to apply, them scrape off the excess you are mixing the dust into the mud in you pan and drying it out. It's better to have the mud a little wet than too dry.
So, how about the banjo?
I am trying to fix a hump in a butt joint that the guys left. Is it possible to sand down to first layer of mud and float out from there. They put a lot of mud in the center.
You can sand down until you hit the tape. Just don't sand through the tape.
Have you tried fiberfuse max i think you would like it man .
Hey Ben, I bought a super taper and man it was messy! But the results and speed were fantastic. The tape lays super flat and using a corner roller i see why you scoff at the bango guys.
I tape a 3000 sq foot home, in a day with the super taper. So money well spent.
Thanks again for all the content.
I even mud framed a wall recently with a darby and 3 sacks of 5 minute mud. Had the craziest bow.
Thanks again
Ben please make a video of taping a inside corner against a stipples/textured ceiling...gracias
We tape the smooth wall with the tape flat on it and not onto the textured surface. Then we run a bead of good quality acrylic caulking in the corner ( not the $1.98 a tube Dap).
@@huejanus5505 the ceiling is already up and I’ll be adding walls in the basement, I’m wondering across the whole ceiling angle. To tape the ceiling angle do you need to remove or fill the texture?
@@philwell76 If you want to tape the textured ceiling to wall joint you’ll have to remove the texturing, if you don’t you’ll have a lumpy mess on your hands. If you make the gap between the wall and ceiling small enough, about 1/8” or smaller, you can just caulk it, with good acrylic caulk. Even a good, paintable exterior caulking would work. Removing and redoing the edges of the texturing can be long and difficult to rematch, removing it from the whole ceiling can be a lot of work, plus the replastering. I’m not sure how many extra hours you want to put into the project or if you really don’t like the texturing to begin with, but the choice is yours. If you just caulk the joint between ceiling and wall, very small bead of caulking, you can at a later date decide to remove the texturing and tape it properly. Most baseboards, door and window frames are caulked to get rid of the gaps as well.
Thanks appreciate the advice
Ben you ever mess around with fixall?
Great drywally videos!
If you have a 45 degree angle that you have mudded twice and twice after about a year it begins to pull from the wall. What do I do?
Hire someone who knows how to tape.
So what is the name of that tool ? and where to buy ?
Can you make a drywall hatchet video please?
I'm hearing some talk of caulking the wall cieling corner instead of taping and mudding. I'm skeptical but open minded, any thoughts??
Chalking fails 10-20 years.
I find you can get perfect 90s with tape. But there are times where i do just chalk the corners in a low budget renovation. Or if times a factor or im trying save the texture and paint on the wall
If your going to chalk the corners I still prefilled and often flat tape to get a perfect edge
is drywall considered carpentry in Canada? Just curious
No. Not really. But carpenters like to work indoors in the winter. It's cold.
What do you think of metal backed tape on inside corners?
Easy there Satan
If you want to go faster than what you think is the fastest method try using fiber mesh tape instead of that antiquated toilet paper method!. That's 100 times faster than the messy paper mache method.
Mesh tape is garbage.
4:18 - What's this thing called?
You need to wipe down with a flexible 8 works way better. That's what I use wiping down behind bazookas
Ahhgh! 4:17! Somebody needs one of those 'long-tail' shirts!
2 man gigg its awesome
Please try a banjo!
He has, and gave his critique of methods here (essentially giving himself the mocking comments he was expecting to get, and his rebuttals): ruclips.net/video/sB81c_tV9ow/видео.html
How do you fill that tube. Suck it in or trowel fill
So I think in one of your videos you said the paper tape is stronger than the mesh tape so now I use two layers of mesh tape. Is that weird? Hahaha.
Cybek, The proper method is paper tape,then mesh tape followed by paper tape to make a samich.
@@p-m2127 ok I'll do it! 👍
I don't think I've seen anyone tape that way so it's probably most peoples least favorite lol The banjo a close second
You should wipe the joint once before applying the tape
To lift it down - that's something new! :)
2-man use only.
Thanks for you sharing your knowledge in all these videos! I wish I would have paid more attention to my dad through the years but that ship has sailed. Very grateful for the detail you go in to and showing the dos and don'ts. Alot of videos like this cut things out to make things look easy and perfect but I really like your style!
You only need a better brand and more practice yo get it fast.
It works wonderfull in the angles.
I love the way when I came out
I have a question, some tapers wet the paper tape before they apply it, i have seen the little water trays that go on your belt and i have even seen an entire roll of tape just dropped in a bucket of water, I have tried the wet paper and find that it is just too messy really thins my mud, but what are your thoughts?
watch his demo with the columbia taper tool. basically he accounts for this with a bit wetter mud and dry tape into the machine
Don't bother wetting the tape, mix your mud a bit looser when your taping. Wetting the tape reduces it's adhesion to the wall, Ben has a great video on this subject! Don't be afraid of the bubbles, they rarely happen and are very easy to fix.
what about a Bazooka
While that's the preferred method for many (if you can cough up the $$), he said that he found them difficult to use.: ruclips.net/video/sB81c_tV9ow/видео.html
It all depends on the size of the job. The finishers that I have met at work, love it and kinda hate it. Mostly because of the level of cleaning it requires. So they have told me if the job is big, the bazooka is the must-go tool, it's fast is pretty clean on the joints. But if the job is small it's not worth it, due to the time they will spend cleaning the tool so they can use it next job.
That's prehistoric.
I'm here and I am a painter
I'm certainly a novice when it comes to drywall repair, but when I apply mud to a joint and lay my paper down, it sometimes bubbles or the edges lift when it starts to dry. What am I doing wrong when that happens?
I'm far from the world's best drywall finisher, but if the edges are lifting or you're getting bubbling there are two possible causes as I see it:
1. The tape isn't being pushed into the bedding mud well enough. (I consider this unlikely but possible.)
2. You are either not applying enough of a bed or you're wiping out too much of the bedding. Either way you are leaving nothing for the tape to stick to. (Having done this myself a number of times I consider this the more likely option.)
He has videos on this problem of bubbles, etc. Check his site. Other reasons he mentions is mud too dry to start with, or sits too long before tape applied. Fibra fuse virtually eliminates this particular problem. I use it on all repairs with hot set mud.
@@markoshun I think my problem is not putting enough mud down first and letting it get wet. Thanks!
The house get a Covid19 inoculation with a flat applicator and mud tube
What about taping while on your skateboard? talk about speed.
There is adjustments for them applicators to control that loose. Ur jaw would drop watching me, u've obviously not been shown how to run this cheap & highly effeciant tool. ( No offense).
I never give my tips experience away it took Way too many years of labour to master.
Quite busty for a flat applicator.
Tapetech basuka
It is a good tool when you know how to use it and mastered how to use it. It is not a thing... It is a tool. Thumbs down.
Ben, Most people would turn you awaaaaay. I don't listen to a word they saaaay...
Thats a scam tool then lol
If you’re a home owner…don’t use . No professional in his right mind would use this POS
Let me think of a benefit......ummmm......NO. Worthless sorry