Trailblazer EXT rear air won't work - FIXED! - Blower Motor Control Module / Resistor
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video I try to figure out why my rear air won't work on my 2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT. The extended Trailblazer has rear air conditioning, and there are a few common problems with them. The rear actuators need recalibrating (loud clicking noise), the blower motor control module (ACDelco #1572813) is faulty, or the fan motor doesn't work. I show you how I replace the fan motor and blower motor control module as well as how to recalibrate the actuators.
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Check out Part 1 of this series where I fix the front A/C of this Trailblazer EXT: • A/C won't work - Easy ...
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After going to the junkyard to get the resistor and destroying/tearing that box out, I found there are 2 additional 10mm bolts that hold the box from under the truck, right under the blower box. Take those 2 hidden nuts out and you can lift out the whole blower box out of place and then you can actually use a torx 15 screwdriver AND SEE where to remove the screws from the resistor. The blower box will come off the vent ducts, so when you put everything back, make sure the ducts are aligned, and nice and tight. My hands were so scraped up from the junkyard trip but not a scratch by also taking out the 2 nuts from underneath at home. There is play with the hoses, you will see how much when you get under the truck to remove the two nuts. If anything would have leaked, it would have been at the junkyard. The resistance you guys feel is just the blowerbox bolted to the under chassis. I used a prybar to remove the box. None of the videos out there talk about those two bottom nuts. Too bad the resistor I got from the junkyard was also not working. Im about to head out now to get another one, this time im removing those 2 nuts so I dont have to break the box. I hope this helps someone.
Thanks for that information! I'm sure it will be helpful to the next guy!
I will keep this in mind when I tackle this problem I have thanks
Man i did like you said and it works thanks. Man
Man i did like you said and it works thanks. Man
I’m about to tackle this issue.
Anyone who's smart would move that electronic resistor and bolt it to a METAL part of the cab above the blower motor (and use some computer processor heat sink paste) so that the new one doesn't bet so hot and burn out. Those electronic resistors produce a lot of heat, and that heat is what causes them to fail! I have two TB EXT's and have replaced/moved both of the resistors...no failures since the move!
brilliant
Where’d you move it to
I got this issue with my blazer long ago and found the issue with the same temperature control module...most of them will fail by time when your ac is not working properly or by any means they got heat up ....
That is not adhesive..you can get it from any computer shops it is silicon coolant gel or cream mostly used for processors ...you must remove it again and clean that and paste a new gel on it otherwise it will fail again due to heat up
Good info to know. Thank you.
Thermal paste
My actuator broke so I made it stay open. The rear fan works when it wants to! I thought it was a setting on the front climate control but I don't know. 🤦🏽♂️ what I do know is that when it's on its on but when it isn't it eventually kicks on out of nowhere. Going to go to trailvoy to see if there is something I'm doing wrong ... thanks bro!
FIXED! I tried the fuse reset 3 times,never touched blower,but did replace ac delco part for the win!pulled everything loose,wedged the top so I had extra room.****stuff a rag or something in hole in case you drop a tool!****I laid on stomach toward front of vehicle to use right hand when putting back in.was WAY easier for me.also pulled part of ac vent that blows to floorboard(1 extra 10mm bolt)to allow me to rock entire assembly out for extra room.hope this extra info helps the next guy.thanks for the help Dan!
So what was the exact part u replaced that fixed it
@@1-Six-dee forget the name of it now but the ac delco part that's mentioned in the video.make sure to stuff a rag in hole so if u drop a screw ur ok.also laying on stomach using right hand saved me mega amounts of time.good luck!
@@marcchampagne804 ty sir I figured it out thru a couple more videos but this speed controller is a big issue in every model that it was used and it is not cheap
@@1-Six-dee small price to pay for way cooler ride.i have 3 kids so wasnt an option for me
@@marcchampagne804 I have three kids as well, I have an issue now the driver side is blowing out coolish air the passenger is blowing out ice cold, seems like I have a blend door issue
Same exact issue I’m facing rn so I appreciate the vid ! Almost positive it’s that ac blower module replacement bc mine starts for 2 seconds n cuts right off too
Did u ever find a fix I have the same issue it turns on for about two seconds then it shuts off
One minor correction. The condenser coil is located in front of the radiator in the engine compartment. Their are 2 evaporator coils that chill the interior air. One for the front dash vents and the other for the rear unit where you were working. That evaporator chills the air coming out of the headliner vents.
Bad news: could not get access to the screws. Good news: we now have a hole in the fender to mount a CB antenna.
Where tapping, the blend door actuators will often reset when power is interrupted. Unfortunately, they won't survive forever and will eventually need to be replaced as they will fail.
You cut out a hole to access the resistor? Lol
There’s two 10mm bolts underneath the vehicle above the exhaust.
Well, were waitinggg. I've never hard a gm vehicle click like that. Usually its them Fords.
Thanks for the video Dan I am having this problem right now I am going to tackle this step by step as you did hopefully I can get my blazer fixed up(clicking noise is annoying after while)
I have the same vehicle with the GMC label. Good info! Will need to tinker with my rear a/c soon.
Can I bring beer and pizza to have you fix my rear air conditioner 🤷♂️?
😂
Well that was crazy, glad you got it going through. Strange
I hate NO access situations. I would've been tempted to add an access panel through the side of the body panel. 😡 Thanks for sharing!
J. Hunto's Garage it crossed my mind! 😂
They call them Failblazers for a reason. I love mine when it works but I've replaced a ton of parts. Try changing plugs and wires if you like to cuss.
I don't know how I did it, but I done it. LOL.
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can u help me I have a 2005 Chevy trailblazer and its misfiring bad and when I checked the codes 2 pops up p0017 and p0300 and I redid the valve covers because it had oil in the spark plugs and I changed the old spark plugs out can u please help me out I'm pulling my hair off with this thank u
bouncer bloodz414 take a look at this info here: www.obd-codes.com/p0017
My wife's 03 Envoy wont blow from the rear vents when the engine is running, but it will when it's on battery. What are the chances its this, or maybe the rear hvac control unit in the second row?
Mine is doing exactly this
I learned from this video that I'm never attempting to fix that blower. F that. The passengers can freeze or sweat to death lol.
I'm glad I fixed mine! My older one's (2002) front heater core died, and it made me decide to fix the rear unit. It's far easier to deal with the real heater core than it is to tear out THE WHOLE DASH to replace the front core! F@#$ removing and fixing that front heater core!!!
The "adhesive" is heat sink material to help dissipate the heat in the so-called "module" which is really a resistor bank. It is not any form of glue or adhesive. If you don't replace it real with heat sink paste, the "module" will fry again.
The Actuator clicking is no-way, ever gonna "reprogram" because when the battery power is lost, the actuators all go through a full-sweep test to find neutral position and that breaks the gear teeth off of very old plastic gears. You cannot reprogram new teeth back onto a broken gear.
Do not NEVER ever disconnect the battery without a KAM! Never!
There's a lot of bad information here folks --- don't follow this guy's advice!
Right above your rear heater/ac controls, the dual vents. Can you tell me how easy or hard it is to remove old and replace new? Are there clips or latches, something that I should know before just attempting to remove it? Please and thank you
So helpful Dan
That might be heat paste using the body as a heat sink...since it gets so hot.
It is! You are correct!
nice video. it just proves, even a blind squirrel can find a nut. i am thankful that our trailblazer doesn’t have rear ac.
The front one will eventually go out. My blower is out and i suspect this to be the problem
Kip Holder mine already went out. i ordered a cheap one from amazon, the original one is around $75.00. it worked for half a day. i ended up going to the junk yard and picking up three of them for about five bucks apiece and i have no issues
I left the lights on battery dead front blower does not work. Any ideas
Great work and great video the question is is it still running ?
11:56
Anyone have info on the adhesive that is meant to be used after cleaning off the old stuff?
Wish we could see how you realigned the peg into the actuator. I am having hell of a time getting my new ones in.
It's not adhesive! It's heat sink paste and if you don't use the correct product you'll fry any new "modules" too --- which are really resistor banks. Buying used electrical parts is always a crapshoot - and you don't get new "glue" with them either.
So it was tht thing in the bk????
Does the clicking continue now? I am having the clicking in my vehicle, and am told both blend doors are broken, and need replaced.
The blend doors hardly ever break or fail unless someone broke the drive pins off.
It's the drivers or "modules" that break internally .... because some Voodoo mechanics believe they can "reset" things that fail by disconnecting the battery every once in a while --- just, ya know --- to make things work again.
Every time you remove the battery from the system --- or disconnect either battery cable --- you'll likely damage the old plastic gears inside the actuators.
They're old - they're plastic and they can't do that many times before they go; "click-click-click-click-click-------"
...and IF you break the gears on the one under the dashboard --- it's major surgery to fix it.
Clicking cure.
ruclips.net/video/rl1WhlvH18A/видео.html
Who would've thunk
nice vid. could you please, if no much trouble, tell me the part nmber or exact name of the air knob located to the left side of the gear stick? its missing and i would really appreciate your help :)
I don't know the part number, but that switch's settings decide if either it, OR the rear controls work the rear a/c-heat unit. One position is off, one position is for the rear controls (in the back of the center console) to run the rear unit, and the other positions are for fan speed (while using the driver's front temperature settings) to control the rear. I hope that helps you understand what the switch does!
New problem I'm seeking help with.
Only front controls work.rear ac is randomly changing temp,and randomly works.seems like the rear controls dictate vent position but stays on setting when turned on.control module and actuators are all new"ish".anyone had temperature problem on only the rear before?
My rear fan uses to turn on for a few seconds but now it won't turn on
Bro. My trail blazer bolw air. But not cold.
you can rig it get a kill switch
because the fan stays on once my car is off
Lol you are like me as long as it works you are good thank you for the info have to fix my gmc envoy 👍👍👍