The drill dr bit is rubbing due to incorrect clearance. I have had this same issue with mine. When you add the back cut after sharpening the bit that clearance will affect the orientation of the bit when it is placed in the carrier at the first step. It won’t happen the first time you sharpen the bit but it will the next time you attempt to sharpen it. Look at the spring clamps when they grip the bit, that relief will cause the bit to be rotated a small amount compared to a bit that does not have that relief. To test that, take the bit that did not drill well and using a bench grinder, manually add additional relief and then retry drilling a hole. If you don’t know how to manually sharpen a drill bit check out one of the many videos on the subject. My guess is the fancy version drill dr is designed better to deal with the relief issue. This is also worse on smaller bits. Check it out for yourself.
I love that the Drill Doctor wins in the carrying case area so you can carry around a tool that doesn’t work well enough to actually drill a hole in mild steel.
It's not so much a lack of sharpness on the Drill Doctor bit, but more the split point grind on the Darex versus the non split-point grind on the Drill Doctor. That there is the difference between needing a pilot hole and not needing one.
My drill doctor 750 sure does work a LOT better than the results you're getting. with that said that Darex sure is nice. BUT - for my hobby use I'm not sure the Darex XT-3000 at around $4,000 vw the Doctor 750 price of $150 is worth while. Of course the Darex V-390 is "only" $1600. Still, I drool over that Darex {g}
No it’s not. It used to be. The companies split years ago and are owned by different people. Darex is in Medford and drill doctor is located at work sharp in Ashland.
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The drill dr bit is rubbing due to incorrect clearance. I have had this same issue with mine. When you add the back cut after sharpening the bit that clearance will affect the orientation of the bit when it is placed in the carrier at the first step. It won’t happen the first time you sharpen the bit but it will the next time you attempt to sharpen it. Look at the spring clamps when they grip the bit, that relief will cause the bit to be rotated a small amount compared to a bit that does not have that relief. To test that, take the bit that did not drill well and using a bench grinder, manually add additional relief and then retry drilling a hole. If you don’t know how to manually sharpen a drill bit check out one of the many videos on the subject. My guess is the fancy version drill dr is designed better to deal with the relief issue. This is also worse on smaller bits. Check it out for yourself.
I would have to look at where the thing should be grabbing, then guess from there where to have the drill bit tightened down.
I love that the Drill Doctor wins in the carrying case area so you can carry around a tool that doesn’t work well enough to actually drill a hole in mild steel.
It's not so much a lack of sharpness on the Drill Doctor bit, but more the split point grind on the Darex versus the non split-point grind on the Drill Doctor. That there is the difference between needing a pilot hole and not needing one.
My drill doctor 750 sure does work a LOT better than the results you're getting. with that said that Darex sure is nice. BUT - for my hobby use I'm not sure the Darex XT-3000 at around $4,000 vw the Doctor 750 price of $150 is worth while. Of course the Darex V-390 is "only" $1600. Still, I drool over that Darex {g}
Not once did you let your audience know the the drill doctor is made by Darex. You are comparing a machine for professional shops to a hobby machine.
No it’s not. It used to be. The companies split years ago and are owned by different people. Darex is in Medford and drill doctor is located at work sharp in Ashland.
Somethings off, even just a junk grinder will sharpen a drill bit if you know how and will drill through that in seconds
Wow, gynocomastia?