You asked about the adjustable Ream in a machine. Yes use it all the time. My shop does high-end plastics. It works fabulous for that application.. I don't suggested on anything else to be used inside a machine
Great info as always. With reaming you have to start with a good hole, reamers just follow. A nice 145 deg spot, carbide drill, give the hole a .030 chamfer and then ream it. For fussy dimensions you can plunge and undersized endmill into your workpiece after the drill and before reaming to ensure a straight hole.
Plunging an undersized endmill that is just smaller than the reamer size, and just larger than the drilled size can really help when you need crazy positional accuracy. We’d call these endmills “stabbers”, and run them before valve guide reamers etc. Great comment.
@@markterryberry4477 I use the undersized endmill method a lot in die making. We use some pretty old, clapped out knee mills but if you keep all the lead screw load in one direction it works great.
How about a G86? Bore, stop, rapid out. That's how we did it in a manual machine back in the day. stop the spindle before pulling out. that option is in Mastercam and that's what I use to ream holes, no swirl marks on the retract.
only thing i didnt see touched on was chatter, and how larger sizes often have the flutes "staggered"... that is, they arent all the same angular distance apart around the circumference of the reamer. sort of related to why a drill tends to make a roleaux triangle or three cornered hole...
Yes please!! I love threadmills. So much easier and less stressful than a tap. I would always be holding my breath when the tap started feeding into a hold in hard metal. If you've ever had a tap snap off in a S. Steel part you know the pain.
They're good for a while but of you're reaming a lot of holes all day everyday, like dowel pin holes, they wear out pretty fast. I like the solid carbide reamers for longevity on hard metal. I run a #2 dia drill with a .3125 reamer as a standard tool set up in our shop. We drill ream tie down holes all day and I've noticed carbide tip drills need to be replaced twice as fast, maybe more, than a solid carbide drill. Of course inexperienced operators will often make the mistake of not replacing a drill when needed thus causing the reamer to do more and more work, and wearing it down faster. So it's difficult to chase the impetus of the problem sometimes. All in all I would say carbide tip on softer metals A+, solid carbide on hard metals all day everyday for my tastes.
I was told to drill 1/64" or .5mm under, then ream. I've been on a new machine and am having trouble with reams (particularly larger ones, like 3/4- 1 1/8 inch) being fairly loose. I'm excited about using the 3 percent rule
Will the haas tooling website carry reamers that are half a thou undersized? For example, if I wanted to use a 3/8" dowel pin I would normally ream the hole with a .3745". I bought your .374" reamer and its a little too tight.
Great feedback, I’ll pass your comment along to our Tooling Products team. We’ve added thousands of items in the last month or two, and the team has a warehouse of tools they are continuing to test before bringing in. We’ll definitely be expanding things. Thanks for the comment.
This is what I was wondering. Doing tooling there was always a question of getting size right but also *location*. We'd pilot with a ground end mill then ream -- but had to watch our ass on how undersized the drill was and whether it was ground correctly.
A lot of times we’ll see expansion reamers that have little set screws on the ends, but these aren’t really meant to be adjustable. We can tighten the set screw, before regrinding the reamer’s cutting edges, so these are just for production regrinding. I’ve seen the adjustable hand reamers like we showed in the video. If there’s something else I’d be interested too. Great comment.
@@polkownik791I’ve heard a lot of great things about floating ream holders, but haven’t used them myself yet for reamers. I’ll use floating tap holders (radial) for high volume tapping, and it does seem to help with tool life and tolerances. If anyone has personal experience with floating holders for reamers I’d love to hear it.
@@markterryberry4477I worked in a shop where some "machinists" would use those set screws to adjust the size of the reamer to ream holes in the machine. Lol. Even back when I was a greenhorn it felt wrong. It was just soft metal, aluminum, but it seemed like they were not using the correct tools. There will always be those people who use bad shortcuts, like using a tool for the wrong purpose, because it's faster than finding a good reamer of the correct size.
That would be a great topic! I’m thinking that boring bars are better in most cases, but they are single-point, where most reamers are 6-point, so can run 6x faster. Some jobs, like long cam bores, can be reamed with custom padded reamers that create their own guide bushings, and so have less droop than a boring bar. For every rule, we have an exception.
@@markterryberry4477boring bars do work great for shallow through holes but they're so temperamental sometimes. They can be daunting. As a machinist who never used them for 16 years I was a little put off by them at first. After mastering the set up I came to really enjoy using them but I would still rather using a reamer if possible. Thanks for the tips!!
My short answer, for reaming blind holes? A single coolant hole down the center (TSC) is ideal for production. For through holes, a center TSC port doesn’t do much and you could look at reamers with angled TSC ports that are aimed at the flutes. With that said, I think flood coolant is almost all you’d need, unless resming very deep holes. Reamers take off very little material, so flood coolant is just fine, and finds its way in. With that said, for high-volume or very deep holes, I sure like TSC.
Through spindle coolant all the way. Changed my life lol. I love TSC with a nice carbide tip Sumitomo. I run mostly hard metal and those are my favorite drills usually besides a Garr or Kennemetal carbide. We just use them to drill through holes for tie down (.421" bolt holes" and 3/16" dowel pin holes) but they work great imo.
habitually drill, pass endmill remachined to make sure the hole it's straigh, and reamer, if the piece it's a die put that on wire edm (for high HRC) :0
If I really need a perfect true position on a hole, I’ll use this method too. Drill, then plunge about 1x diameter deep with an endmill that is just a few micron smaller than final diameter, then ream. We call these plunging endmills (before reams) “stabbers”. Great comment.
We bought a UMC 750 a while ago. The controll were something new for me and a fair bit intimmidating. I soon got to programming the 5 axis and started to cut a part component. Just to realise that the Z-axis went "fong-kong" on us very quickly... The Z-axis thermal compensator were plugged in the wrong place "proudly assembled and checked" in the US of A. The amazing tech team from South Africa corrected the fault with zero positive assistance from the US. Later I found that the provided tool probe setter guage is shorter by about 0.154mm In the HAAS manual they state that you could use any "known" guage lenght but advise that you use the guage provided... But what do you do when the guage that is supposed to be perfect is not perfect? Well, you again rely on South Africa to fix the US Of "F" ing A's bugger up. Again without any form of compensation. The machine is amazing, the South African team is even more amazing. But for the US of A holes. Please put the z-axis thermal comoensator plug in the right place on your F1 cars...
Please clarify reamers are based in ipr not feed per tooth. My shop has this stipulation that all reamers are fees per tooth Which every reamer chart out there saids ipr.
It's pleasure to see you again Mr Mark.
Thanks for you and for haas for the great content.
You asked about the adjustable Ream in a machine. Yes use it all the time. My shop does high-end plastics. It works fabulous for that application.. I don't suggested on anything else to be used inside a machine
Great info as always. With reaming you have to start with a good hole, reamers just follow. A nice 145 deg spot, carbide drill, give the hole a .030 chamfer and then ream it. For fussy dimensions you can plunge and undersized endmill into your workpiece after the drill and before reaming to ensure a straight hole.
Plunging an undersized endmill that is just smaller than the reamer size, and just larger than the drilled size can really help when you need crazy positional accuracy. We’d call these endmills “stabbers”, and run them before valve guide reamers etc. Great comment.
@@markterryberry4477 I use the undersized endmill method a lot in die making. We use some pretty old, clapped out knee mills but if you keep all the lead screw load in one direction it works great.
I absolutely full sent a 8mm hand reamer in the Robodrill. It made 2 good holes, 2 good enough holes and 1 not good hole. Don't know, until you know.
Another amazing video from Mark and Haas!
Everything is a hammer. Except a screwdriver. That's a chisel.
Prydriver
Except the back of a screwdriver, thats a hammer! Gotta love them multitools
Great tip and very well explained. Keep posting such informative videos. I've worked on Haas machines, I must say they are so easy and great m/cs.
Nice vid! Ya covered the basics well and thanks for the 3% tip, I did not know that.
Still doing a great job Mark!
❤ for Mark
How about a G86? Bore, stop, rapid out. That's how we did it in a manual machine back in the day. stop the spindle before pulling out. that option is in Mastercam and that's what I use to ream holes, no swirl marks on the retract.
do you not have vertical score marks? I think I've run into this before, just curious if you have
@@travihalt8526 I have not.
@@glendetlefsen7206 I might have to try it again
only thing i didnt see touched on was chatter, and how larger sizes often have the flutes "staggered"... that is, they arent all the same angular distance apart around the circumference of the reamer. sort of related to why a drill tends to make a roleaux triangle or three cornered hole...
Long time no video. Very informative. Can you make a video about Tread milling?
Yes please!! I love threadmills. So much easier and less stressful than a tap. I would always be holding my breath when the tap started feeding into a hold in hard metal. If you've ever had a tap snap off in a S. Steel part you know the pain.
Carbide tipped all the time. Better surface finish and lower cost. It’s a win - win scenario.
They're good for a while but of you're reaming a lot of holes all day everyday, like dowel pin holes, they wear out pretty fast. I like the solid carbide reamers for longevity on hard metal. I run a #2 dia drill with a .3125 reamer as a standard tool set up in our shop. We drill ream tie down holes all day and I've noticed carbide tip drills need to be replaced twice as fast, maybe more, than a solid carbide drill. Of course inexperienced operators will often make the mistake of not replacing a drill when needed thus causing the reamer to do more and more work, and wearing it down faster. So it's difficult to chase the impetus of the problem sometimes. All in all I would say carbide tip on softer metals A+, solid carbide on hard metals all day everyday for my tastes.
@@your_belief_vs_everything I was referring to carbide tipped reamers.
I didn't know about the 3% rule. I was always told just undersize the hole by 1/64" before a reamer.
That sounds like pretty good advice in most cases. When holes get really small or large, rule-of-thumbs start to fail us.
I was told to drill 1/64" or .5mm under, then ream. I've been on a new machine and am having trouble with reams (particularly larger ones, like 3/4- 1 1/8 inch) being fairly loose. I'm excited about using the 3 percent rule
Never added about countersinking the hole before reaming. I was always told to never cs after reaming
Loved the additional scene in end of video like marvel movies..
Perfect video again, thanks a lot...
Will the haas tooling website carry reamers that are half a thou undersized? For example, if I wanted to use a 3/8" dowel pin I would normally ream the hole with a .3745". I bought your .374" reamer and its a little too tight.
Great feedback, I’ll pass your comment along to our Tooling Products team. We’ve added thousands of items in the last month or two, and the team has a warehouse of tools they are continuing to test before bringing in. We’ll definitely be expanding things. Thanks for the comment.
This is what I was wondering. Doing tooling there was always a question of getting size right but also *location*. We'd pilot with a ground end mill then ream -- but had to watch our ass on how undersized the drill was and whether it was ground correctly.
Thank you HAAS
Aren't there chucking reamers that have an adjustable capability? I swear I have seen them, but maybe I am remembering wrong.
A lot of times we’ll see expansion reamers that have little set screws on the ends, but these aren’t really meant to be adjustable. We can tighten the set screw, before regrinding the reamer’s cutting edges, so these are just for production regrinding. I’ve seen the adjustable hand reamers like we showed in the video. If there’s something else I’d be interested too. Great comment.
@@markterryberry4477 What's about floating holder's ? They are adjustable and helps falow the hole .
@@polkownik791I’ve heard a lot of great things about floating ream holders, but haven’t used them myself yet for reamers. I’ll use floating tap holders (radial) for high volume tapping, and it does seem to help with tool life and tolerances. If anyone has personal experience with floating holders for reamers I’d love to hear it.
@@markterryberry4477I worked in a shop where some "machinists" would use those set screws to adjust the size of the reamer to ream holes in the machine. Lol. Even back when I was a greenhorn it felt wrong. It was just soft metal, aluminum, but it seemed like they were not using the correct tools. There will always be those people who use bad shortcuts, like using a tool for the wrong purpose, because it's faster than finding a good reamer of the correct size.
I’m running a G86 code instead of G85. And make a pretty good result
I use those adjustable on my manual lathe....they are real finicky and want to chatter, every now & then you get a decent hole.
Lol, here I was this whole time thinking reamers cut from the side..
Cool video ❤
Great , thanks
Boring bars vs chucking reamers?
That would be a great topic! I’m thinking that boring bars are better in most cases, but they are single-point, where most reamers are 6-point, so can run 6x faster. Some jobs, like long cam bores, can be reamed with custom padded reamers that create their own guide bushings, and so have less droop than a boring bar. For every rule, we have an exception.
Reamers are typically just so much faster, cheaper, easier…
@@markterryberry4477boring bars do work great for shallow through holes but they're so temperamental sometimes. They can be daunting. As a machinist who never used them for 16 years I was a little put off by them at first. After mastering the set up I came to really enjoy using them but I would still rather using a reamer if possible. Thanks for the tips!!
For blind holes, which is better, coolant through or sides ways?
My short answer, for reaming blind holes? A single coolant hole down the center (TSC) is ideal for production. For through holes, a center TSC port doesn’t do much and you could look at reamers with angled TSC ports that are aimed at the flutes. With that said, I think flood coolant is almost all you’d need, unless resming very deep holes. Reamers take off very little material, so flood coolant is just fine, and finds its way in. With that said, for high-volume or very deep holes, I sure like TSC.
Thank you Mark.
Through spindle coolant all the way. Changed my life lol. I love TSC with a nice carbide tip Sumitomo. I run mostly hard metal and those are my favorite drills usually besides a Garr or Kennemetal carbide. We just use them to drill through holes for tie down (.421" bolt holes" and 3/16" dowel pin holes) but they work great imo.
Hello I'm from Afghanistan I watch your videos, your videos is very helpful 😊 thanks so much 😊
Цікаво було, нічого про них не знав, тепер наче експерт ))) Цікавий повчальний контент.
Reamers gonna ream.
Great video Mark.
Drill bore and ream
habitually drill, pass endmill remachined to make sure the hole it's straigh, and reamer, if the piece it's a die put that on wire edm (for high HRC) :0
If I really need a perfect true position on a hole, I’ll use this method too. Drill, then plunge about 1x diameter deep with an endmill that is just a few micron smaller than final diameter, then ream. We call these plunging endmills (before reams) “stabbers”. Great comment.
7:38 what problems?
We bought a UMC 750 a while ago. The controll were something new for me and a fair bit intimmidating. I soon got to programming the 5 axis and started to cut a part component. Just to realise that the Z-axis went "fong-kong" on us very quickly...
The Z-axis thermal compensator were plugged in the wrong place "proudly assembled and checked" in the US of A. The amazing tech team from South Africa corrected the fault with zero positive assistance from the US.
Later I found that the provided tool probe setter guage is shorter by about 0.154mm
In the HAAS manual they state that you could use any "known" guage lenght but advise that you use the guage provided... But what do you do when the guage that is supposed to be perfect is not perfect? Well, you again rely on South Africa to fix the US Of "F" ing A's bugger up. Again without any form of compensation. The machine is amazing, the South African team is even more amazing. But for the US of A holes. Please put the z-axis thermal comoensator plug in the right place on your F1 cars...
Superb
Please clarify reamers are based in ipr not feed per tooth.
My shop has this stipulation that all reamers are fees per tooth
Which every reamer chart out there saids ipr.
4:56
The word here is *affect*, not effect. Effect is a noun, and affect is a verb. Just letting u know :)
👏👏
3:28 BOBER KURWA
You would never get the feeler gauge in or out of the hole 😅
What about the tiny T-Slots Haas offers??? You can't be serious, you sell 84" Machines with 60HP Spindle and we are supposed to use 1/2" Fasteners??
That's not a reemer on the swiss army knife. It's a sewing awl.
... that's an awl not a reamer on the swiss army knife
I’d rather just bore the hole or interpolate with an end mill to be honest. Had too much hassle from reamers