Gord I love Danish Oil so easy to apply, bush or spray on and all done. Love how the surface sets hard when dry, even coated all the plywood panels in the shed.
GREAT tip with the g clamp! -when I buy Danish oil, I tend to ''share'' with my son [a woodworker] and he with me, as it stays fresh and doesn't go off as it gets used faster. Plus we just buy the size we need for the job. I love danish oil, but yes, it is best to apply sparingly, and watch for runnels, and where it may collect,e.g, on bevelled edges.
Brad show this to your mom, I'm really glad you are doing these videos. Very educational and important to me... Btw. this is probably what I want to do to that PRS guitar well maybe plus tung oil finish.
+HHG drums Thank you. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. I've actually had quite a few people say that I look something like him, although with a nose that looks like it's been hit by a truck haha.
It has varnish components and this is dependant on the manufacturer. Manufacturers change their formulations every year to every ten years depending on their labs and market research... Never trust these companies to stay within formulation.
@Paul Jarrett, that wasn't my intention, but I would be happy if it were a side effect. I wouldn't gain anything from it, but they were a great company to work with.
Hi Brad, do you have any tips on using Danish Oil on pine? I've got a piece of pine plywood I want to use as the top of a hobby bench and from what i've read it seems like many advocate for Danish Oil. I've also read that pine is tricky as it absorbs differently. Thanks for any advice.
Brad Angove I totally agree. The watco “butcher block oil and finish” dries up almost right before your eyes, gotta keep the lid on while you tryin to use it or it skims over quickly and thickly, wasting some each time, and it’s expensive... This “danish oil” is basically the same thing and is much easier to use, it doesn’t say “food safe”, but it is, and much less cost/waste. Seriously paying like 3x the price for the tiny butcher block can because it actually says “food safe”, clever on rustoleums part....
What oils? How long? Maybe you can do a video sharing your expereince. I know I would be interested. Nothing is logged by major manufacturers at entry level thats for sure :)
your videos are super informative thanks man. i just did a basswood telecaster body in danish oil and it looks fantastic. the grain really came out beautiful which i wasn't expecting because everyone said basswood had terrible to no visible grains. i have 2 questions if you have any advice: 1) i sanded the body with 400 grit paper beforehand, but i can trace my finger across the body in places and it has the effect of wiping thick carpet one way, it lightens up. did i not sand enough? 2) i used tru oil for my guitar's neck finish and it turned out great. any reason i can't use tru oil on top of the danish? thanks again for your videos
I'm glad you're finding the videos useful. For your first question, sanding by itself doesn't deal with the raised grain problem. Wood grain will raise up when it gets wet and have that effect. I did a video on his to raise grain for a smooth finish, but essentially once you've gotten the wood wet and raised the grain you can just sand that raised grain off and it shouldn't happen again. Next: you should be able to use try oil on top of danish oil. Danish oil tends to be compatible with pretty much everything.
That is an excellent finish, exactly what I was looking for. I bought the Watco exterior wood finish in the "Natural" color and it's actually red and cloudy in the can, and when I finished the doors they turned out Red, like a deep Cherry. Any thoughts?
+Maxwell Actual That was the natural colour? It must have been one of those stain mixes or something. Danish oil wouldn't make a very good exterior finish, but if you used it first and then went over top of it with watco's lacquer or a poly of some sort I think it would be more to your liking. Unfortunately you would need to take off that cherry red finish first.
great video. I'm a dinosaur with all this. as you spoke of, I ended up with sticky patches with my first attempt. I have now sanded the whole top table and about to reapply. wish me luck...thanks again. lisa
Nice advice on getting rid of excess gases in the can prior to storage (the worst of all in air being oxygen). Average consumers though, it's not a question of wasting the oil because they don't throw it out if oxidised. It is not easily discernable anyway. They use it and find the finish or longer term results like water resistance outdoors or abrasion resistance indoors are lessened. Worth noting that the whole volume of liquid will be degraded to a greater extent than when manufacrured after opening. Not just the top 'layer' as many people think. This degradation can result in finish or lifetime of finish discrepancies when tested (in comparison to manufacturer claims). All manufacturers test based on the initial seal break. Or manufacture date so to speak - when the oils, resins, surfactants/polyols are generated and homogenised. They forego any longterm testing for cost purposes (unless otherwise stated).
BTW, if anyone has nitrogen, argon or to a lesser efficacy CO2 in their shop, just purge the opened cans with one of these gasses and seal after use. Resuse results will be practically the same upon opening ;0)
Hey Brad! I thinking about doing a similar finish on a maple top. After the oil should I follow with vinyl sealer then instrument lacquer for a glassy finish?
Oh he's GORGEOUS! - Anyway I got a beech table top from Ikea and I am using it for my computer desk. It needs to be oiled before use and was wondering if I could use the Danish Oil on it. I was looking for something simple and easy-peasy! I'm not worried about water-proofing the table top or anything like that.
Hey Brad, noticed on other videos to use steel wool to rub in the first couple coats. Do you still do that with danish oil on guitar body? Also will it get darker with each coat? Thanks!
I don’t use steel wool on guitars really (or at least not anymore). I’m concerned it would get into the pickups etc. since it can leave little pieces of metal.
Brad, I plan to finish an ash wood guitar body (unfinished sanded to 220 grit) in Danish Oil. Do I need to apply wood filler first to the surface before I apply the Danish Oil? Thanks.
Hi Brad great video, really informative. I see guitars finished with tung oil danish oil etc. People say oil finishes are less durable and softer than poly or nitro. If that is the case how come oil finish guitars dont get pick or nail sctraches? I mean all my guitars are either nitro or poly. Poly seems to be damn hard as rock but even they have some small dents from pick attacks or nail scratches. I want to make a refinish with oil but I dont trust it. What do you think, do you think oil finish on a guitar makes it vulnerable?
Oil isn’t really a film finish so it doesn’t offer much protection. Because it’s so thin it doesn’t pick up dents really, but it also doesn’t protect the wood from dents.
One tip if i may say for redwood and pine> if you apply the oil and DON'T wipe it off and let it sit and set in for 15 minutes as it says on the can, it will get gunky and sticky.. If that happens just damp a rag/cloth in more oil and wipe the sticky area, the oil will loosen up and liquefy again and immediately wipe it off with a clean/dry rag or cloth,, wipe off till your cloth runs smooth across the area you are working on and after you wipe it all off it will look so beautiful.. I've done this plenty of time...... You're welcome 😉👌
A lot longer than 15 minutes, in general.... I've restored some old box beams in my Bungalow, that had some old varnish which had gone Disgusting!. I used Danish oil with Mineral Turps - about 50:50, maybe more turps - wetted the surface, scrobbed with extra fine steel wool, and wiped off the excess. My point is, that varnish was ~90 years on the wood, and the base of the Danish oil loosened it up no worries at all.
Great video Brad, thanks. Is this sufficient finish for a guitar body? Or do I need poly or nitro on top? Also would you say a few coats of this are good enough for a coffee table top? Thanks again!
Great video as usual. Is there an oil/wax or a technique that can give a mate finish? Don't want that glossy texture...just a bit of protection and non-shinny finish?
It depends on what it’s been painted with. I’ve seen people oil over paint before with success. I’ve never done it personally though. I clear coat over my paint.
I am applying watco to cabinets that already have watco on them.They seem dried out.Do I follow directions on can.Also what do I need to do to cabinet to prepare it as far as cleaning it.
+Gordon Turner Danish oil tends to give a relatively satin finish. You can put a finish over top of danish oil once it has dried completely if you want. Just use a satin or matte finish over it.
would this be a good choice as a finish for an electric guitar? I'd love to try it as I'm not a big fan of the heavy polyurethane(sp?) finished they usually use. my concern is about the back of the guitar neck where it will be held a lot. I'm concerned the Danish oil would be slightly sticky and suffer under sweat ect from playing. what would you recommend? thanks again.
+Brian O Shea I don't think you would have a problem with it being sticky, but at the same time it doesn't offer a lot of protection. You may want to consider using this under a finishing oil. There are several different kinds. I'm fond of the new guitar finishing oil mad by Crimson guitars. Maybe take a quick look at the video I did on that stuff. It seems like it could offer a nice thin layer of protection to seal in that danish oil a little.
Can I do a nitro finish over the Danish oil? I m going to do a sanding sealer and then a Nitro finish on top of the danish oil. Would that work? Also should I use a wood conditioner before I use the Danish oil?
Hi Brad... I have an old oak dresser. We sanded and stained the top of the dresser but the drawers and sides we left as is. I was planning to clean the drawers and sides with Murphy's Oil Soap and then use golden oak Danish Oil. My questions are: does this sound like a good plan? AND should I use Danish Oil on the top of dresser that has just been stained and looks good?
+Patricia M. Hi Patricia. That sounds like a nice project. Murphy's Oil is a great choice for cleaning things like that. It's what I use for similar applications. As for the Danish oil, you will have seen in this video how easy it is to apply to raw wood in this video. That is because of the way it soaks in. It should still do this on stained wood in almost all circumstances. That being said, if you left the drawers and sides with a finish on them, the oil will sit on top. You may still do this, but the oil will create a sheen, and it won't be particularly durable. It will also be more important that you apply it evenly, since it will be acting as a finish coat. I hope that didn't just make things more confusing for you. Let me know if it makes sense.
+Brad Angove Thank you so much for responding. I think the drawers are stained also. I'll test a corner and see if the Danish oil sits on top. If it soaks in, then I'll try doing the top of the dresser and the drawers. I just didn't want the top to be so much darker than the drawers (since the top has a fresh coat of stain on it and the drawers are a bit faded with time). Right now the top matches the drawers, pretty much. Thank you again. I hope you get to have your own show on TV. You are very helpful.
I used this on my stained guitar neck as a grain fill and finish, but I'm not loving the dull finish - the body is a buffed tru-oil finish, so a little more gloss. If I rub on a thin coat of tru oil for shine, will it fight with the danish oil?
Brad, I'm trying to spray Exterior Watco Oil Natural on about 32000 square feet of patio ceilings. I'm getting so much overspray that my tarps get slick. I have tried a diaphragm pump (Graco Triton 1:1) and an airless (Graco 395) with various tip sizes from 311 to 535. Nothing has solved the overspray problem. I've tried using the product full strength and also diluted it up to 10% with paint thinner. Graco has tried to help but they've gotten so big the left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing. What is the solution?
Hey Brad I know this is a old video ...my question if you can answer is ,..can you apply danish oil to the point you can build a sheen or film surface....I'm using it on old growth 200 year old douglas fir strat style guitar ..an its sucking it up quiet a bit an unsure how to apply with curing time in between coats...ik patience is the key but if its sinking it that deep an it's not weeping much at all during drying time in the first 2 coats...am I not applying enough...I've used many style sealers an varnishes I went with watco Danish oil because application process saying its easy an lower odor an fumes than aerosols ...any insight is a help
You can build a mild sheen, but nothing like a film finish, and there won’t be any scratch or impact resistance. Are you applying yours with sandpaper?
@@BradAngove should i be using sandpaper ? i have used close half or little more than a third of can color an grain looks great just not the sealing factor i was after i wanted it thin but sheen ..i have a feeling i could use entire can an not achieve what im after .. seeing as there is no strenght in this application can you suggest a wipe on sealer of sorts for surface ...looking for sheen or light film finish just not poly...i dont want plastic coated finish ...being as it may the woods are prone to ding easily anyway even with epoxy finsh just want somthing strong thin an easy wipe on or brush that sets up smooth ...sorry for the rambling
Using sandpaper mixes the oil with sawdust and fills the pores quicker. There are lots of options to go overtop. An oil based varnish or poly would work.
Hey man, I was wondering if it's necessary to use polyurethane after applying the Danish oil costs? I'll be finishing a table, so hands will be in contact with it very often.
Brad Angove Hey man, I took your advice and have everything ready. HOWEVER, the oak arrived and I found THIS (imgur.com/99nMefD) on it. Any ideas on how I can remove it? (Water evidently does not do the trick.)
Hey man, thought I'd update the situation. I tried your idea of sanding it. I sanding it *HARD* with 400 grit sandpaper, i was afraid of making an indent into the wood so I stopped. The ink was faded, but still very noticeable. I googled for a few other solutions and came across a bicarbonate of soda solution. I made some paste up, smeared it over the stained area and wiped it (read: Scrubbed it) clean. The ink was removed! YEAH! BUT!!!! It's left a dodgy looking stain where the soda has touched. Darkening the area. Any ideas?
So I've had some weirdness with Danish Oil. I applied some to 100 year old mahogany that had been prepped with 200 then 320 grit. After the first initial coat I wet sanded with it in an attempt to smooth out the grooves. It's worked mostly but there are some that will not fill without me leaving the past to sit and if I let it sit for even 10 minutes it becomes this tacky mess. What's the proper approach for this? The initial wipe was spot on but any subsequent coats with wet sanding are with mixed results. I'd like to try tung oil over it but not if I'm getting these hassles.
+Brandon Montz The sanding trick is really only to fill minor poets. If you're dealing with deeper grooves you should consider using a tinted filler to get the proper look and fill it in so you don't have that goopy thick danish oil causing problems for you.
Sorry for the very dumb question. Let's say I want to preserve the natural wood aspect of the guitar. Should I first apply a stain (e.g. from Varathane, Minwax) to highlight the grain, then the Danish Oil, and finally a gloss clear coat? Or the clear coat is not necessary if I apply a few hands of Danish Oil?
@@BradAngove yeah that makes sense of course. What I'm trying to figure is how to show the naked wood on part of the body, but add some colored stripes. Something like your other video with the racing car silver stripes, but replace the silver paint with the stained wood. What I have in mind is a surf or skateboard.
ok cool i watched that video but i didnt realize that raised grain was what i was dealing with. i read somewhere at one point with oils it wouldnt be an issue but that is what it seems like. thanks again man
+SETH DODGE Danish oil doesn't tend to react to much, but I would still try to avoid getting into a situation where you need to paint over it. It would probably be ok, but better safe than sorry I think.
Yikes, sounds like fun haha. I don't know how you would fix warping in something like that. It was probably glued up with wood that had a twist in it or something. You're probably using mineral oil for that, correct? Also, did you just change you name?
one good looking man .thank you for the videos. and most people agree you are a good-looking guy in great shape how about some workout videos you obviously are doing something right time to share
Any finish effected by oxygen s/b stored in a properly marked plastic water bottle. That way you can squeeze it to remove all the air down to the very last drop. You can only clamp that can so far and it's impossible to clamp a round can of finish. This is especially helpful when taking finishing materials from a gallon container. Reduce it into smaller containers as soon as you open it. A little paste wax around the the bottle neck threads will make easier to open next time.
+Brad Angove its what ive been using to "stain" a strat kit neck, that came bright maple, after about 12 coats its darkening but i sand the neck down after every other coat so you can see its darker where i dont sand. so being clear its still a bit colored
Ya, there isn't actually a clear one. The natural one has a slight darkening effect like any oil finish. You're sure the neck wasn't sealed when you started, right?
@@BradAngove Sorry Brad, i'll be specific as I've now decided to go for a tru oil finish. With tru oil is it okay to put it onto bare wood and as it can produce a shiny finish , would a hi gloss lacquer serve no purpose?
Apply, let it soak in then wipe off excess. After drying follow up again with as many coats as desired. Excessive oil will coagulate and become gummy and difficult to remove.
Ah, I see. You should be able to do that with danish oil. Generally I don't recommend painting over oil, but if you let it dry long enough it shouldn't be an issue. I've clear coated over it before. Another alternative that should work is shellac. It's pretty safe and doesn't tend to react to anything. You may want to consider lacquering over the danish oil first, then waiting for that to dry and sanding it lightly, then doing your acrylic painting, then clear coating it after.
Apply heavy,allow time to thicken and wipe evenly with lint free cloth (paper towel will leave fibers) B4 it dries fully apply 2nd coat and repeat to desire , let dry and sand with 300 and up paper wet or dry (slurry looks very different than dry) wet with more oil Let dry and if you went slurry sand lightly , apply finishing coat like b4. as many coats as you want with time gaps not long enough to harden, dry and polish with 0000 steel wool and if you have bumps or divots you sand with 1000 paper and touch up Dad did it with pumas powder but I use slurry sanding ... that board be wallnut dark by 3rd application
How come we never see you guys work on the sides of an unfinished guitar? Just doing the top's is the easy part. There are mindfields associated with doing the sides and gravity plays a part. Thanks.
Granted I’m answering this question straight out of my notifications, so I haven’t checked, but wasn’t I finishing a box lid or something like that in this video? I’ve done plenty of videos where I finish entire guitars; sides and back included.
I do enjoy your videos and appreciate your take on all you share. My experience with Watco Danish has been to apply it heavily, massage it in, then wipe off all excess, and repeat a few times. As you point out, it'll gum up if you leave it on more than 15 minutes or if you're not using a fresh/well stored can. But I've found you can zip through finishing with a flood coat, wipe off after 5 minutes, and repeat. Simplest good finish out there. While your method certainly isn't wrong, I suspect you could save a bit of time going heavy and removing after a short wait. Either way, great series. All the best! @@BradAngove
@@BradAngove Either method works however I agree with Larry, that a fairly heavy first coat, wipe down, and then thinner following coats is the way to go. Since Danish oil soaks into the wood you want to give the wood plenty of oil to absorb on the first coating. Otherwise the oil can absorb unevenly. As you say, "To each their own". But Danish oil soaks in, so first coat-- give it plenty to soak. : )
Go to the $$ (Dollar Store) or craft supply and buy a bag or two of marbles. Makes a great way of precisely removing the air from the can without crushing it. Later, the marbles can be soaked clean in spirits for re-use.
WOw this is great advice here. It's amazing how beautiful a project comes out when you put in some elbow grease. I love how tung oil doesn't leave dust nibs and hairs in your finish like poly does. It's also a bonus that the finished wood just begs to be caressed like a $3000 gun stock or a Taylor guitar. I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com
Danish oil is 50% varnish and 50% boiled linseed oil - it's all marketing bullshit, mix your own. Likewise "tung oil" is 50% varnish and 50% mineral spirits. I know, Homer Formby invented it and my family manufactures it.
Varnish, is presumably some sort of spiri based coating, I don't know. I use BLO quite often, on tool handles, but when I applied Danish Oli to any wood it went on sticky andtook 12 hours to dry.
When I use danish oil it generally soaks into the wood. That being said, I never put it over a sealer or anything like that. I've never seen varnish soak in like that, so I'm not sure I believe this anyway.
Bullshit. If "your family" is manufacturing it that way, then they are cheating pieces of crap. Tung oil comes from the nut of the tung tree. Danish oil is made from polymerized tung or linseed oil.
Great idea to bring the oil up to the top of the can. Thanks for the great video!
Glad you like it. Thanks for the comment.
I like the way you present and explain everything, and give those useful, small tips and tricks. Thanks! All the best.
Thank you. I'm glad you're happy with the presentation method.
Great video! I am working on refinishing a couple of Danish bedside tables.! So this video was helpful 👍
I'm glad you found it useful.
One tip I read about keeping air in the container to a minimum was to drop glass marbles into the container until the oil is back up to the top.
I learned a lot, great video!
Thanks for sharing!
Gord I love Danish Oil so easy to apply, bush or spray on and all done. Love how the surface sets hard when dry, even coated all the plywood panels in the shed.
Nice. I’ve never bothered to spray it. Might have to try that some day.
Brilliant video, thank you 😊
Thanks for watching.
GREAT tip with the g clamp! -when I buy Danish oil, I tend to ''share'' with my son [a woodworker] and he with me, as it stays fresh and doesn't go off as it gets used faster. Plus we just buy the size we need for the job. I love danish oil, but yes, it is best to apply sparingly, and watch for runnels, and where it may collect,e.g, on bevelled edges.
Brad show this to your mom, I'm really glad you are doing these videos. Very educational and important to me... Btw. this is probably what I want to do to that PRS guitar well maybe plus tung oil finish.
+Tomas M That sounds like a good option Thomas. Also, I was joking about the mother thing haha.
I was pretty sure you were, but just in case ;-)
Thanks great video! I will attempt this on my old dresser after I sand it
Juliana acosta Excellent. Make sure that you've sanded all of the sealer off so that the oil can soak in.
very useful. Thanks
Thanks for watching.
you look like Jake Gyllenhaal's buff little brother. keep up the good work, you're a finishing master, and your vids are super helpful
+HHG drums Thank you. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. I've actually had quite a few people say that I look something like him, although with a nose that looks like it's been hit by a truck haha.
@ BerkyBoy That's interesting to know. Danish oil certainly doesn't behave as though it has a bunch of varnish in it.
It has varnish components and this is dependant on the manufacturer. Manufacturers change their formulations every year to every ten years depending on their labs and market research... Never trust these companies to stay within formulation.
Nice stuff. I like the idea of squishing the can to remove air. I've been using sammiches all these years. But the bread was just soaking it up. 🤣😂🇨🇦
The moist maker?
Happy Birthday Video ! just about to attempt first Danish oil finish - wish me luck.
Good luck!
@Paul Jarrett, that wasn't my intention, but I would be happy if it were a side effect. I wouldn't gain anything from it, but they were a great company to work with.
Hi Brad, do you have any tips on using Danish Oil on pine? I've got a piece of pine plywood I want to use as the top of a hobby bench and from what i've read it seems like many advocate for Danish Oil. I've also read that pine is tricky as it absorbs differently. Thanks for any advice.
@Oakleaf700 Luckily, Danish oil doesn't go bad nearly as quickly as some other oils that are designed to really harden up.
Brad Angove I totally agree. The watco “butcher block oil and finish” dries up almost right before your eyes, gotta keep the lid on while you tryin to use it or it skims over quickly and thickly, wasting some each time, and it’s expensive...
This “danish oil” is basically the same thing and is much easier to use, it doesn’t say “food safe”, but it is, and much less cost/waste.
Seriously paying like 3x the price for the tiny butcher block can because it actually says “food safe”, clever on rustoleums part....
What oils? How long? Maybe you can do a video sharing your expereince. I know I would be interested. Nothing is logged by major manufacturers at entry level thats for sure :)
I watched many of your videos and really help me finish my guitar. Now I have a question, How to clean Danish oil finished fretboard?
Are you trying to remove the oil?
I used watco on concrete counters it looks amazing
Nice. How’s the durability?
Good man ap
Starting my first experience with danish oil tonight. Hopefully it turns out.
bill clauser I'm sure it will go well. There's relatively little that can go wrong with danish oil.
Good Video THX
Glad you think so. Thanks for watching.
your videos are super informative thanks man.
i just did a basswood telecaster body in danish oil and it looks fantastic. the grain really came out beautiful which i wasn't expecting because everyone said basswood had terrible to no visible grains.
i have 2 questions if you have any advice:
1) i sanded the body with 400 grit paper beforehand, but i can trace my finger across the body in places and it has the effect of wiping thick carpet one way, it lightens up. did i not sand enough?
2) i used tru oil for my guitar's neck finish and it turned out great. any reason i can't use tru oil on top of the danish?
thanks again for your videos
I'm glad you're finding the videos useful. For your first question, sanding by itself doesn't deal with the raised grain problem. Wood grain will raise up when it gets wet and have that effect. I did a video on his to raise grain for a smooth finish, but essentially once you've gotten the wood wet and raised the grain you can just sand that raised grain off and it shouldn't happen again. Next: you should be able to use try oil on top of danish oil. Danish oil tends to be compatible with pretty much everything.
That is an excellent finish, exactly what I was looking for. I bought the Watco exterior wood finish in the "Natural" color and it's actually red and cloudy in the can, and when I finished the doors they turned out Red, like a deep Cherry. Any thoughts?
+Maxwell Actual That was the natural colour? It must have been one of those stain mixes or something. Danish oil wouldn't make a very good exterior finish, but if you used it first and then went over top of it with watco's lacquer or a poly of some sort I think it would be more to your liking. Unfortunately you would need to take off that cherry red finish first.
great video. I'm a dinosaur with all this. as you spoke of, I ended up with sticky patches with my first attempt. I have now sanded the whole top table and about to reapply. wish me luck...thanks again. lisa
I hope it goes well for you lisa. Thanks for watching.
it worked out beautifully...now on to oak steps leading downstairs to rec room and upstairs to main living area. any videos on this??
+Lisa g Any videos on what? Stairs?
yes.
+Lisa g I'm afraid I don't have anything on that topic specifically.
Nice advice on getting rid of excess gases in the can prior to storage (the worst of all in air being oxygen). Average consumers though, it's not a question of wasting the oil because they don't throw it out if oxidised. It is not easily discernable anyway. They use it and find the finish or longer term results like water resistance outdoors or abrasion resistance indoors are lessened. Worth noting that the whole volume of liquid will be degraded to a greater extent than when manufacrured after opening. Not just the top 'layer' as many people think. This degradation can result in finish or lifetime of finish discrepancies when tested (in comparison to manufacturer claims). All manufacturers test based on the initial seal break. Or manufacture date so to speak - when the oils, resins, surfactants/polyols are generated and homogenised. They forego any longterm testing for cost purposes (unless otherwise stated).
BTW, if anyone has nitrogen, argon or to a lesser efficacy CO2 in their shop, just purge the opened cans with one of these gasses and seal after use. Resuse results will be practically the same upon opening ;0)
Hey Brad! I thinking about doing a similar finish on a maple top. After the oil should I follow with vinyl sealer then instrument lacquer for a glassy finish?
Normally you wouldn’t oil and then paint. It’s one or the other generally.
Oh he's GORGEOUS! - Anyway I got a beech table top from Ikea and I am using it for my computer desk. It needs to be oiled before use and was wondering if I could use the Danish Oil on it. I was looking for something simple and easy-peasy! I'm not worried about water-proofing the table top or anything like that.
There are lots of options that would work for that application. Danish oil is definitely one of them.
OK thanks so much!
Hey Brad, noticed on other videos to use steel wool to rub in the first couple coats. Do you still do that with danish oil on guitar body? Also will it get darker with each coat? Thanks!
I don’t use steel wool on guitars really (or at least not anymore). I’m concerned it would get into the pickups etc. since it can leave little pieces of metal.
Brad, I plan to finish an ash wood guitar body (unfinished sanded to 220 grit) in Danish Oil. Do I need to apply wood filler first to the surface before I apply the Danish Oil? Thanks.
No, you can go ahead and apply the oil first. Is that intended to be your final finish?
Brad Angove yes sir.
Hi Brad great video, really informative. I see guitars finished with tung oil danish oil etc. People say oil finishes are less durable and softer than poly or nitro. If that is the case how come oil finish guitars dont get pick or nail sctraches? I mean all my guitars are either nitro or poly. Poly seems to be damn hard as rock but even they have some small dents from pick attacks or nail scratches. I want to make a refinish with oil but I dont trust it. What do you think, do you think oil finish on a guitar makes it vulnerable?
Oil isn’t really a film finish so it doesn’t offer much protection. Because it’s so thin it doesn’t pick up dents really, but it also doesn’t protect the wood from dents.
One tip if i may say for redwood and pine> if you apply the oil and DON'T wipe it off and let it sit and set in for 15 minutes as it says on the can, it will get gunky and sticky.. If that happens just damp a rag/cloth in more oil and wipe the sticky area, the oil will loosen up and liquefy again and immediately wipe it off with a clean/dry rag or cloth,, wipe off till your cloth runs smooth across the area you are working on and after you wipe it all off it will look so beautiful.. I've done this plenty of time...... You're welcome 😉👌
A lot longer than 15 minutes, in general.... I've restored some old box beams in my Bungalow, that had some old varnish which had gone Disgusting!. I used Danish oil with Mineral Turps - about 50:50, maybe more turps - wetted the surface, scrobbed with extra fine steel wool, and wiped off the excess. My point is, that varnish was ~90 years on the wood, and the base of the Danish oil loosened it up no worries at all.
Great video Brad, thanks. Is this sufficient finish for a guitar body? Or do I need poly or nitro on top? Also would you say a few coats of this are good enough for a coffee table top? Thanks again!
I would use some kind of protective coat on top in each of those circumstances.
Brad- thank you very much.
Thanks for watching.
Great video as usual. Is there an oil/wax or a technique that can give a mate finish? Don't want that glossy texture...just a bit of protection and non-shinny finish?
Finishing wax gives a fairly matte finish. You can also try just using a matte lacquer or similar finish.
@@BradAngove cheers!
Hey. I have a traditional wooden mask that has been painted. Can I apply Danish oil to keep the wood without damaging the colour?
It depends on what it’s been painted with. I’ve seen people oil over paint before with success. I’ve never done it personally though. I clear coat over my paint.
Have you had any feedback on how folks like a guitar neck finished with Danish oil? Is it fast, sticky, etc....
It’s fast, but it doesn’t provide much protection from sweat, moisture, etc.
I am applying watco to cabinets that already have watco on them.They seem dried out.Do I follow directions on can.Also what do I need to do to cabinet to prepare it as far as cleaning it.
Just give it a light sanding with 600 grit paper and clean with wax and grease remover. Let that dry and then follow the directions on the can.
Do Denish oil gives enought protection like lacquer even its applied for several layeres...
thanks❣
No, it doesn’t offer any protection really.
Hey Brad, if I wanted a satin or more Matt finish how is that achieved with Danish oil. Is it possible ?? Thanks
+Gordon Turner Danish oil tends to give a relatively satin finish. You can put a finish over top of danish oil once it has dried completely if you want. Just use a satin or matte finish over it.
would this be a good choice as a finish for an electric guitar? I'd love to try it as I'm not a big fan of the heavy polyurethane(sp?) finished they usually use. my concern is about the back of the guitar neck where it will be held a lot. I'm concerned the Danish oil would be slightly sticky and suffer under sweat ect from playing. what would you recommend? thanks again.
+Brian O Shea I don't think you would have a problem with it being sticky, but at the same time it doesn't offer a lot of protection. You may want to consider using this under a finishing oil. There are several different kinds. I'm fond of the new guitar finishing oil mad by Crimson guitars. Maybe take a quick look at the video I did on that stuff. It seems like it could offer a nice thin layer of protection to seal in that danish oil a little.
+Brad Angove excellent. Will check out your other videos. thanks again brad.
Thanks Brian. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Can I do a nitro finish over the Danish oil? I m going to do a sanding sealer and then a Nitro finish on top of the danish oil. Would that work? Also should I use a wood conditioner before I use the Danish oil?
It’s not really recommended per se, but I have done it and it worked fine.
Hi Brad... I have an old oak dresser. We sanded and stained the top of the dresser but the drawers and sides we left as is. I was planning to clean the drawers and sides with Murphy's Oil Soap and then use golden oak Danish Oil. My questions are: does this sound like a good plan? AND should I use Danish Oil on the top of dresser that has just been stained and looks good?
+Patricia M. Hi Patricia. That sounds like a nice project. Murphy's Oil is a great choice for cleaning things like that. It's what I use for similar applications. As for the Danish oil, you will have seen in this video how easy it is to apply to raw wood in this video. That is because of the way it soaks in. It should still do this on stained wood in almost all circumstances. That being said, if you left the drawers and sides with a finish on them, the oil will sit on top. You may still do this, but the oil will create a sheen, and it won't be particularly durable. It will also be more important that you apply it evenly, since it will be acting as a finish coat.
I hope that didn't just make things more confusing for you. Let me know if it makes sense.
+Brad Angove Thank you so much for responding. I think the drawers are stained also. I'll test a corner and see if the Danish oil sits on top. If it soaks in, then I'll try doing the top of the dresser and the drawers. I just didn't want the top to be so much darker than the drawers (since the top has a fresh coat of stain on it and the drawers are a bit faded with time). Right now the top matches the drawers, pretty much. Thank you again. I hope you get to have your own show on TV. You are very helpful.
Thank you Patricia. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
If I’m doing this for a seat of a bench should I apply and both sides of the wood?
It’s up to you. I probably would.
I used this on my stained guitar neck as a grain fill and finish, but I'm not loving the dull finish - the body is a buffed tru-oil finish, so a little more gloss. If I rub on a thin coat of tru oil for shine, will it fight with the danish oil?
No. They should play well together, as long as the danish oil has had some time to dry.
Thanks! Your videos have been incredibly helpful in restoring this old thing. I'll try to share some before and afters when it's done.
Looking forward to it.
Brad, I'm trying to spray Exterior Watco Oil Natural on about 32000 square feet of patio ceilings. I'm getting so much overspray that my tarps get slick. I have tried a diaphragm pump (Graco Triton 1:1) and an airless (Graco 395) with various tip sizes from 311 to 535. Nothing has solved the overspray problem. I've tried using the product full strength and also diluted it up to 10% with paint thinner.
Graco has tried to help but they've gotten so big the left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing. What is the solution?
You're using an airless system to spray it?
Hey Brad I know this is a old video ...my question if you can answer is ,..can you apply danish oil to the point you can build a sheen or film surface....I'm using it on old growth 200 year old douglas fir strat style guitar ..an its sucking it up quiet a bit an unsure how to apply with curing time in between coats...ik patience is the key but if its sinking it that deep an it's not weeping much at all during drying time in the first 2 coats...am I not applying enough...I've used many style sealers an varnishes I went with watco Danish oil because application process saying its easy an lower odor an fumes than aerosols ...any insight is a help
You can build a mild sheen, but nothing like a film finish, and there won’t be any scratch or impact resistance.
Are you applying yours with sandpaper?
@@BradAngove should i be using sandpaper ? i have used close half or little more than a third of can color an grain looks great just not the sealing factor i was after i wanted it thin but sheen ..i have a feeling i could use entire can an not achieve what im after .. seeing as there is no strenght in this application can you suggest a wipe on sealer of sorts for surface ...looking for sheen or light film finish just not poly...i dont want plastic coated finish ...being as it may the woods are prone to ding easily anyway even with epoxy finsh just want somthing strong thin an easy wipe on or brush that sets up smooth ...sorry for the rambling
Using sandpaper mixes the oil with sawdust and fills the pores quicker.
There are lots of options to go overtop. An oil based varnish or poly would work.
Can you apply rub on poly to Danish Oil after it sufficiently dries?
Yes. I have done it several times.
Do you use an oil or water based polyurethane?
Oil based
For a maple look on a guitar body...would the natural danish oil do?
Yes, that would work fine.
Hey man, I was wondering if it's necessary to use polyurethane after applying the Danish oil costs?
I'll be finishing a table, so hands will be in contact with it very often.
Ameer Mahmood On a table polyurethane would be a good idea to help protect it. Danish oil doesn't do a great job of that part.
Brad Angove Hey man, I took your advice and have everything ready. HOWEVER, the oak arrived and I found THIS (imgur.com/99nMefD) on it. Any ideas on how I can remove it? (Water evidently does not do the trick.)
It looks like they sealed over it (or maybe under it haha, hard to say from the picture). You can probably sand it off. Have you tried that?
Hey man, thought I'd update the situation.
I tried your idea of sanding it. I sanding it *HARD* with 400 grit sandpaper, i was afraid of making an indent into the wood so I stopped. The ink was faded, but still very noticeable. I googled for a few other solutions and came across a bicarbonate of soda solution. I made some paste up, smeared it over the stained area and wiped it (read: Scrubbed it) clean. The ink was removed! YEAH! BUT!!!! It's left a dodgy looking stain where the soda has touched. Darkening the area. Any ideas?
Unfortunately I'm not really sure how to deal with that. Did you figure out if the sealer was above or below the ink?
Intelligent guy.
Thank you sir.
So I've had some weirdness with Danish Oil. I applied some to 100 year old mahogany that had been prepped with 200 then 320 grit. After the first initial coat I wet sanded with it in an attempt to smooth out the grooves. It's worked mostly but there are some that will not fill without me leaving the past to sit and if I let it sit for even 10 minutes it becomes this tacky mess. What's the proper approach for this? The initial wipe was spot on but any subsequent coats with wet sanding are with mixed results. I'd like to try tung oil over it but not if I'm getting these hassles.
+Brandon Montz The sanding trick is really only to fill minor poets. If you're dealing with deeper grooves you should consider using a tinted filler to get the proper look and fill it in so you don't have that goopy thick danish oil causing problems for you.
Would I have to strip off the current coat to apply the tinted filler?
I highly doubt that it would be necessary to remove the current coat.
Sorry for the very dumb question. Let's say I want to preserve the natural wood aspect of the guitar. Should I first apply a stain (e.g. from Varathane, Minwax) to highlight the grain, then the Danish Oil, and finally a gloss clear coat? Or the clear coat is not necessary if I apply a few hands of Danish Oil?
It depends on the level of protection you’re trying to achieve. There’s really little point in using both danish oil and clear coat though.
@@BradAngove yeah that makes sense of course. What I'm trying to figure is how to show the naked wood on part of the body, but add some colored stripes. Something like your other video with the racing car silver stripes, but replace the silver paint with the stained wood. What I have in mind is a surf or skateboard.
And a full gloss finish overall?
@@BradAngove yes, at least, that's what my skateboard looks like
That’s mostly just about tape work then. No reason to use oil if you’re looking for a full gloss finish. That’s a job for clear coat.
Hey Brad, can I apply a waterbased polyurethane on this danish oil? Or would you rather with regular poly?
+MisterZavala7 One it has dried completely there's no reason that I can see why the water-based option shouldn't work.
ok cool i watched that video but i didnt realize that raised grain was what i was dealing with. i read somewhere at one point with oils it wouldnt be an issue but that is what it seems like. thanks again man
You're quite welcome.
I have used this often and found my procedure is two coats of blond shellac. About 1 or 2 lb cut. then Danish oil and the color is even.
Nice; that’s an interesting technique. I would be concerned about the oil not soaking in properly if you seal with shellac first.
Hi, have you tried a thin coat o shellac seal before or after Danish Oil?
I've put shellac on after the danish oil and it worked very nicely. I think putting it on before might prevent the oil from soaking in very well.
yep, ty
Yw.
Can I paint over the natural danish danish finish? or should I avoid putting this Danish oil on the parts that I want to paint?
+SETH DODGE Danish oil doesn't tend to react to much, but I would still try to avoid getting into a situation where you need to paint over it. It would probably be ok, but better safe than sorry I think.
Thank you good sir. My board looks great so far with 2 coats of natural Danish Oil on.
+SETH DODGE i put just one coat on a strat body and let dry for a week and primer and paint has stuck well
I am surprised that my new oak work top is all warped before I start oiling and fitting it looks defective have you had any experience of this...?
I've worked with warped wood before, but what is this for, a work bench?
it's a solid oak worktop for the kitchen, and what a palaver it is, warps, needs oiling about five times special high powered tools to cut......
Yikes, sounds like fun haha. I don't know how you would fix warping in something like that. It was probably glued up with wood that had a twist in it or something. You're probably using mineral oil for that, correct? Also, did you just change you name?
yep and the warp will disappear once I have oiled it and bracket fixed it...thanks brad..
Well good luck to you sir. If you apply your first coat of oil and rub it in with a high grit sandpaper you can get a pretty awesome polished look.
Do you recommend using a sanding sealer first?
Not under this stuff. It needs to soak in to work properly.
@@BradAngove ok great, thank you. Really enjoying your videos, very informative.
Is it compatible with a semi gloss after is dry?
If you use oil based.
one good looking man .thank you for the videos. and most people agree you are a good-looking guy in great shape how about some workout videos you obviously are doing something right time to share
Thanks for watching.
Brad Angove who wouldnt , thanks for the videos my friend.
Store the cans upside down that way the air is trapped in and any skin formed will be at the bottom...
Use Bloxygen, makes the stuff last for years, it's basically a spray can of argon
Any finish effected by oxygen s/b stored in a properly marked plastic water bottle. That way you can squeeze it to remove all the air down to the very last drop. You can only clamp that can so far and it's impossible to clamp a round can of finish. This is especially helpful when taking finishing materials from a gallon container. Reduce it into smaller containers as soon as you open it. A little paste wax around the the bottle neck threads will make easier to open next time.
A lot of these finished will eventually melt plastic bottles causing spills and/or contaminating the material.
I store Poly in PET bottles with so far no ill effect.
That’s good. Have you ever had an issue with your poly skinning over on top? It’s never come up for me.
I only use clear Watco, I don't like the stain version. Also , I soak up the excess so I don't get shiny and dull spots .
You prefer the natural danish oil?
+Brad Angove its what ive been using to "stain" a strat kit neck, that came bright maple, after about 12 coats its darkening but i sand the neck down after every other coat so you can see its darker where i dont sand. so being clear its still a bit colored
but yeah mine says natural not clear so it might have a slight tint
Ya, there isn't actually a clear one. The natural one has a slight darkening effect like any oil finish. You're sure the neck wasn't sealed when you started, right?
+Brad Angove yeah it was untreated
Sorry if I missed it, is that a piece of pine?
No, I don’t believe that one was pine. Although I can’t really recall what it would have been.
What stain did you is son that finished block at the end?
Pareasa Stewart What finished block are you referring to?
couldn't pay attention because his biceps were speaking to me the whole time.
Whats your view on other oil finishes eg Tru Oil. Tung Oil etc?
I’m not sure what information you’re looking for here. Generally I like other oil finishes, and each has its particular use.
@@BradAngove Sorry Brad, i'll be specific as I've now decided to go for a tru oil finish. With tru oil is it okay to put it onto bare wood and as it can produce a shiny finish , would a hi gloss lacquer serve no purpose?
Yes, you can put it on bare wood. With enough coats it can be relatively glossy.
@@BradAngove Ok thanks.....i'll see what it looks like after 3 coats and will maybe give it a similar number of coats of gloss nitro.
are you also advertising for that collision company? If so, smart move to do on the youtube video.
I tried Danish oil on poplar but almost took a week to dry...is that normal?
A week? No; that's not normal as far as I know.
Apply, let it soak in then wipe off excess. After drying follow up again with as many coats as desired. Excessive oil will coagulate and become gummy and difficult to remove.
i like a bit of danish oil on my body
+Katy Mason I guess that's better than putting it on your salad...
Want a DARK finish. Any advice?
Dark stain, dark dye, or a dark transparent paint.
Can you use Danish oil over stain?
Yes
can i paint over with acrylic paint and then lacquer
+Gemma Walling You want to paint over the danish oil finish with acrylics, and then lacquer over the entire thing? Is that correct?
Yes
I have a longboard that i want to have a natural grain effect and was gunna paint a pin up on it with acrylic paint.
Ah, I see. You should be able to do that with danish oil. Generally I don't recommend painting over oil, but if you let it dry long enough it shouldn't be an issue. I've clear coated over it before. Another alternative that should work is shellac. It's pretty safe and doesn't tend to react to anything.
You may want to consider lacquering over the danish oil first, then waiting for that to dry and sanding it lightly, then doing your acrylic painting, then clear coating it after.
Thanks Shane, from Walking Dead.
Watco has Tung oil and poly in it ???
What do you mean?
@@BradAngove I think watco is made from Tung oil, mineral spirits, and poly
Apply heavy,allow time to thicken and wipe evenly with lint free cloth (paper towel will leave fibers)
B4 it dries fully apply 2nd coat and repeat to desire , let dry and sand with 300 and up paper wet or dry (slurry looks very different than dry) wet with more oil
Let dry and if you went slurry sand lightly , apply finishing coat like b4. as many coats as you want with time gaps not long enough to harden, dry and polish with 0000 steel wool and if you have bumps or divots you sand with 1000 paper and touch up
Dad did it with pumas powder but I use slurry sanding ... that board be wallnut dark by 3rd application
Another way to preserve your oil based product is to use "Bloxygen". Then you don't have to damage the can.
Intriguing.
How come we never see you guys work on the sides of an unfinished guitar? Just doing the top's is the easy part. There are mindfields associated with doing the sides and gravity plays a part. Thanks.
Granted I’m answering this question straight out of my notifications, so I haven’t checked, but wasn’t I finishing a box lid or something like that in this video?
I’ve done plenty of videos where I finish entire guitars; sides and back included.
Why do you squeeze the can??
To remove the air so the top of the oil doesn’t harden.
I like Danish oil, but I like true oil better.
That wood needed better sanding after it was planed i can see the planning marks
Ken Phillips there’s always one smart arse
Mate thats a G clamp not a C clamp ?
Did I confuse you by calling it a C clamp, or do you just have a different way of referring to it?
Keith Crud not in North America is not!
I used danish oil and it is really good and easy but, man, the smell is way too strong, ended up with a headache, so, wear some protection! 👍
And consider doing it in a large, or well ventilated area.
Incorrect way to apply it. Try reading the directions. It is supposed to be flooded on the piece, so it will absorb as much as possible.
+Larry B I've read the instructions and tried that option. I prefer this method, and I think the results generally speak for themselves.
I do enjoy your videos and appreciate your take on all you share. My experience with Watco Danish has been to apply it heavily, massage it in, then wipe off all excess, and repeat a few times. As you point out, it'll gum up if you leave it on more than 15 minutes or if you're not using a fresh/well stored can. But I've found you can zip through finishing with a flood coat, wipe off after 5 minutes, and repeat. Simplest good finish out there. While your method certainly isn't wrong, I suspect you could save a bit of time going heavy and removing after a short wait. Either way, great series. All the best!
@@BradAngove
Thanks David.
@@BradAngove Either method works however I agree with Larry, that a fairly heavy first coat, wipe down, and then thinner following coats is the way to go. Since Danish oil soaks into the wood you want to give the wood plenty of oil to absorb on the first coating. Otherwise the oil can absorb unevenly. As you say, "To each their own". But Danish oil soaks in, so first coat-- give it plenty to soak. : )
Two suggestions right off the bat, lower the intro volume and mic up
... how old is this video?
Brad Angove more than 2x my age
Work goes much faster and nicer with Stodoys instructions.
Nice guns!
I was wondering what those unsightly bumps on his arms were.
Go to the $$ (Dollar Store) or craft supply and buy a bag or two of marbles. Makes a great way of precisely removing the air from the can without crushing it. Later, the marbles can be soaked clean in spirits for re-use.
+Hbg Bill That's an interesting option. Thanks for the suggestion.
Consider filming in some thing other than an echo chamber with a motor running.
I'll consider it.
WOw this is great advice here. It's amazing how beautiful a project comes out when you put in some elbow grease. I love how tung oil doesn't leave dust nibs and hairs in your finish like poly does. It's also a bonus that the finished wood just begs to be caressed like a $3000 gun stock or a Taylor guitar. I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com
wow, very handsome!
Didn’t even tell us the grit to sand to
Depends on wood type, how many coats you’re doing, desired finish, etc.
Apply... hm...
HeadOn, apply directly to the forehead.
HeadOn, apply directly to the forehead.
HeadOn, apply directly to the forehead.
Sorry.
Danish oil is 50% varnish and 50% boiled linseed oil - it's all marketing bullshit, mix your own. Likewise "tung oil" is 50% varnish and 50% mineral spirits. I know, Homer Formby invented it and my family manufactures it.
Varnish, is presumably some sort of spiri based coating, I don't know.
I use BLO quite often, on tool handles, but when I applied Danish Oli to any wood it went on sticky andtook 12 hours to dry.
When I use danish oil it generally soaks into the wood. That being said, I never put it over a sealer or anything like that. I've never seen varnish soak in like that, so I'm not sure I believe this anyway.
Bullshit. If "your family" is manufacturing it that way, then they are cheating pieces of crap. Tung oil comes from the nut of the tung tree. Danish oil is made from polymerized tung or linseed oil.
please make a script next time.... the CC on this video are aweful, it's one long fragmented sentence.
What do you mean make a script? RUclips creates its own CC. I don’t make it.