Awesome video series. I've been rebuilding 4L60E's but have a couple of TH350's to do soon. I'm studying these videos hard. Thanks man... can't wait for part 5!
Another great video. Do you think the Powerbuilt General Purpose Bushing Driver Tool Kit 641335 would be enough to install all the bushings in the TH350? Thank you
Thanks, Hellraiser! Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to speculate as to whether it would work as I'm not familiar with that kit but Powerbuilt is more or less low-end in terms of tool quality..I'd look on eBay for a dedicated transmission bushing driver set as you're more likely to have success with that vs anything made by Powerbuilt. Also drill out the bushing in the front of the output shaft and replace it with the plastic seal that came in the later TH350s...
Thank you for the reply and the tip on that output shaft seal. Dropped the trans and started the cleaning and disassembly, but still need more tools. Have you done a video on tools for the TH350 rebuild, or do you have a list of tools? Cheers
I haven't done tool videos yet on those units, the TH400s or 700R4/4L60Es but plan on doing some soon...You don't need to many special tools...Just a clutch spring compressor for the low reverse piston, general clutch spring compressor for the forward and direct clutch drums, pump alignment tool for the cover and body (large hose clamp from a hardware store should work), bushing driver set and perhaps a drill and appropriate size bit(s) for the output shaft bushing. Also an air compressor and nozzle to do air checks.
I know this video is older but I am getting ready to rebuild my th350 and see you are taking all measurements with dry clutches. Is that how I should be doing this for my build? Take all measurements before soaking the clutches?
Hi Joshua, The difference is immaterial when it comes to measuring clutches dry vs pre-soaked: ruclips.net/video/2j6XYCblG5I/видео.html I did a video where I explain my rationale for not pre-soaking them before install. Main thing is you want to be within spec. You can do both as well, I imagine you'll see a few thousandths less soaked vs dry but once the trans begins working, they'll give back those few thousandths of an inch or so gained on the bench from the fluid.
Awesome. Thank you for the quick response. I will also watch that video. I bought this trans from a buddy. He broke the intermediate gear. This trans is also setup 100% manual standard pattern. I am watching a ton of videos and also have a very good book on building/modifying the th350. I do like that I can bench test all clutch packs before assembling. Any tips on setting pump end play or is that just a build and then check and adjust from there situation?
End play is checked upon final assembly and adjusted from there...If you checked end play before disassembly and it was within spec and you didn't replace any hard parts like the pump, drums, etc then you should be still within spec using the same selective washer or bearing and shims (depending on what year TH350 you're working on). Do you have Ron Sessions' TH350 book?
I did not check it before I tore it down because I didn't even know if it was going to be repairable. I am also putting in a remanufactured intermediate drum. I have Cliff Ruggels How to rebuild/modify a TH350.
Cliff's book is good as well...There's no 'intermediate drum' in the TH350, the intermediate clutches spline onto the int. sprag and case....Are you referring to the direct drum? Front end play is .010-.044 but make sure you pre-load the rear of the case (i.e. push the output shaft upwards/inwards) then check front end play...The TH350 rear gear/output shaft does thrust a bit against the forward drum so you want to account for that so you're not so tight as to create a bind in the case as groups of parts are moving back and forth during operation. If I don't address any of that in my TH350 videos, I'll do a separate video on end play measurement and adjustment in the near future.
Been watching some of your vids. Getting ready to build a beefed up th350. Have you ran the ck performance diode. It's going to be a street strip car. Don't want to go to a 36 element sprag cause of lubrication issues they have sometimes.
I have not but heard good things about it and may use it in another TH350 build that I may be doing in a couple months...FWIW, I have been using CK Perf stuff for years and have never had any problems whatsoever so I wouldn't hesitate to grab it if it will meet your needs and within budget. Thank you for watching, Greg!
@@nickstransmissions yeah it is t a budget issue. Just I don't know much about them. Ill run it. If it goes I may just go to a glide. Not a fan of 400s.
Gotcha...how much power is your engine putting out and what is the converter stall speed? How often will you be racing? Unless your stall is north of 5000, i'd keep the 1-2 accumulator active, keep the wavy plate in the intermediate clutch and drill the 1-2 feed hole conservatively at first.
@@nickstransmissions yeah I planned on keeping wave plate and accumulator spring. Running a QuickDraw converter. It's I think he said 3500 stall. To the application.
happy thanksgiving weekend. Excellent video. Wondering if you can clarify a few things for me. I am rebuilding a non-high HP TH350 for my old low performance 73 chevy truck and am wondering about clearances. I used your air pressure/dial indicator check on my direct drum (new clutches and steels) and got .060.... Then when I checked the forward drum clearance with the original wave plate and 5 new clutches and 5steels, i got .071. But then I tried different TH350 forward drum wave plate out of another TH350 and then got .050 clearance. When I checked the thickness of the two wavy plates they were identical, but one is a bit more wavy than the other, and I think that is why I now have .050 .. I have only built two TH350s including this one, and I am wondering if its ok to use this other factory wave plate to then to the .050 clearance on the dial indicator check. I dont really understand what is going on here, is it that one of the wavy plates is just smashed a bit flatter, and is that ok? You have by far get the best videos on U tube. Thank you so much for helping me understand what is going on here and if it is ok. Given this info, is .060 ok on the direct clutches? and .050 (with the substituted wavy) on the forward?
Likewise, JT P and thanks again for the feedback! Clearance of .060 is fine for the direct clutch pack...Forwards can be set up a little tighter since they are a static clutch (always on unless you're in reverse, neutral or park). Clearance of .070 is a little high but shouldn't be a problem however I'd keep it at .050 if I had to choose between the two. Double check the clearance once you have it back together.
@@nickstransmissions Thank you for the response. I got it down to .050 on 0n the forward with a thicker pressure plate.. But i am still wondering about my question about the wavy plates seeming different and changing the clearance value.. What can you tell me about that? Also, I love that you are the only person to show a video using a dial indicator to check the clutches.. Very cool!
YW, sorry I wasn't clear...feel free to use whichever waved plate you would like to get the clearance you need. It's fine as long as the waved plate is in serviceable condition and the final clearance is acceptable.
thank you again i have one final question. i need to get the tranny in asap and my final clearance on the direct clutches is .064. this is just a stock TH350 build behind a 305 engine in my trash run truck,. will this clearance be ok on the stock runner? Just as a reminder this is the stock 4 clutch 4 steel no wawy setup.
That clearance should be fine. I always advise doing a line pressure test with a gauge to confirm the transmission's line pressure in P, R, N, D, 2, 1 and line rise in D and R is adequate before going on a test drive. Good luck w/it!
@@nickstransmissions OMG, i do not know how to do that! but back to the clearances for a moment... so with new frictions and steels and the largest factory pressure plate (has 2 tab cutouts on the plate tabs) that would be a totally stock set up, so as anamateur
Nick do you know what the shim is out of you can install under the input planetary washer the one directly on top of the planet itself to help set the overall endplay?
Im not sure off hand but I'd shim the pump bearing or output ring gear using a shim from Sonnax shim pack 77406-10. Shimming the planet would put the ring gear forward by .010-.015 which may or may not affect the quality of the mesh. What is your front end play currently?
Awesome video series. I've been rebuilding 4L60E's but have a couple of TH350's to do soon. I'm studying these videos hard. Thanks man... can't wait for part 5!
You're welcome, Kevin, and thank you for the kind words!
Another great video. Do you think the Powerbuilt General Purpose Bushing Driver Tool Kit 641335 would be enough to install all the bushings in the TH350? Thank you
Thanks, Hellraiser!
Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to speculate as to whether it would work as I'm not familiar with that kit but Powerbuilt is more or less low-end in terms of tool quality..I'd look on eBay for a dedicated transmission bushing driver set as you're more likely to have success with that vs anything made by Powerbuilt.
Also drill out the bushing in the front of the output shaft and replace it with the plastic seal that came in the later TH350s...
Thank you for the reply and the tip on that output shaft seal. Dropped the trans and started the cleaning and disassembly, but still need more tools. Have you done a video on tools for the TH350 rebuild, or do you have a list of tools? Cheers
I haven't done tool videos yet on those units, the TH400s or 700R4/4L60Es but plan on doing some soon...You don't need to many special tools...Just a clutch spring compressor for the low reverse piston, general clutch spring compressor for the forward and direct clutch drums, pump alignment tool for the cover and body (large hose clamp from a hardware store should work), bushing driver set and perhaps a drill and appropriate size bit(s) for the output shaft bushing. Also an air compressor and nozzle to do air checks.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Man…
Thanks again BF4L.
What's that tool called that you used during the piston install to slide in around the seal?
Hi Cpt Trenchfoot - that's a lip seal installation tool. Those are available from eBay, Amazon or WIIT (Whatever It Takes) Transmission parts.
@@nickstransmissions Was going to ask the same question after checking the comments, wanted to see if anyone else had caught that. Cheers
Great job man... bravoo
Thanks, man...Appreciate it.
Good job sharing
Thank you, Alexander.
I know this video is older but I am getting ready to rebuild my th350 and see you are taking all measurements with dry clutches. Is that how I should be doing this for my build? Take all measurements before soaking the clutches?
Hi Joshua,
The difference is immaterial when it comes to measuring clutches dry vs pre-soaked: ruclips.net/video/2j6XYCblG5I/видео.html
I did a video where I explain my rationale for not pre-soaking them before install. Main thing is you want to be within spec. You can do both as well, I imagine you'll see a few thousandths less soaked vs dry but once the trans begins working, they'll give back those few thousandths of an inch or so gained on the bench from the fluid.
Awesome. Thank you for the quick response. I will also watch that video. I bought this trans from a buddy. He broke the intermediate gear. This trans is also setup 100% manual standard pattern. I am watching a ton of videos and also have a very good book on building/modifying the th350. I do like that I can bench test all clutch packs before assembling. Any tips on setting pump end play or is that just a build and then check and adjust from there situation?
End play is checked upon final assembly and adjusted from there...If you checked end play before disassembly and it was within spec and you didn't replace any hard parts like the pump, drums, etc then you should be still within spec using the same selective washer or bearing and shims (depending on what year TH350 you're working on).
Do you have Ron Sessions' TH350 book?
I did not check it before I tore it down because I didn't even know if it was going to be repairable. I am also putting in a remanufactured intermediate drum.
I have Cliff Ruggels How to rebuild/modify a TH350.
Cliff's book is good as well...There's no 'intermediate drum' in the TH350, the intermediate clutches spline onto the int. sprag and case....Are you referring to the direct drum?
Front end play is .010-.044 but make sure you pre-load the rear of the case (i.e. push the output shaft upwards/inwards) then check front end play...The TH350 rear gear/output shaft does thrust a bit against the forward drum so you want to account for that so you're not so tight as to create a bind in the case as groups of parts are moving back and forth during operation.
If I don't address any of that in my TH350 videos, I'll do a separate video on end play measurement and adjustment in the near future.
Been watching some of your vids. Getting ready to build a beefed up th350. Have you ran the ck performance diode. It's going to be a street strip car. Don't want to go to a 36 element sprag cause of lubrication issues they have sometimes.
I have not but heard good things about it and may use it in another TH350 build that I may be doing in a couple months...FWIW, I have been using CK Perf stuff for years and have never had any problems whatsoever so I wouldn't hesitate to grab it if it will meet your needs and within budget.
Thank you for watching, Greg!
@@nickstransmissions yeah it is t a budget issue. Just I don't know much about them. Ill run it. If it goes I may just go to a glide. Not a fan of 400s.
Gotcha...how much power is your engine putting out and what is the converter stall speed? How often will you be racing?
Unless your stall is north of 5000, i'd keep the 1-2 accumulator active, keep the wavy plate in the intermediate clutch and drill the 1-2 feed hole conservatively at first.
@@nickstransmissions it's a 355 built small block looking at around 450+ 500tq. crank. With a 150 nx plate
@@nickstransmissions yeah I planned on keeping wave plate and accumulator spring. Running a QuickDraw converter. It's I think he said 3500 stall. To the application.
happy thanksgiving weekend. Excellent video. Wondering if you can clarify a few things for me. I am rebuilding a non-high HP TH350 for my old low performance 73 chevy truck and am wondering about clearances. I used your air pressure/dial indicator check on my direct drum (new clutches and steels) and got .060.... Then when I checked the forward drum clearance with the original wave plate and 5 new clutches and 5steels, i got .071. But then I tried different TH350 forward drum wave plate out of another TH350 and then got .050 clearance. When I checked the thickness of the two wavy plates they were identical, but one is a bit more wavy than the other, and I think that is why I now have .050 .. I have only built two TH350s including this one, and I am wondering if its ok to use this other factory wave plate to then to the .050 clearance on the dial indicator check. I dont really understand what is going on here, is it that one of the wavy plates is just smashed a bit flatter, and is that ok? You have by far get the best videos on U tube. Thank you so much for helping me understand what is going on here and if it is ok. Given this info, is .060 ok on the direct clutches? and .050 (with the substituted wavy) on the forward?
Likewise, JT P and thanks again for the feedback! Clearance of .060 is fine for the direct clutch pack...Forwards can be set up a little tighter since they are a static clutch (always on unless you're in reverse, neutral or park). Clearance of .070 is a little high but shouldn't be a problem however I'd keep it at .050 if I had to choose between the two. Double check the clearance once you have it back together.
@@nickstransmissions Thank you for the response. I got it down to .050 on 0n the forward with a thicker pressure plate.. But i am still wondering about my question about the wavy plates seeming different and changing the clearance value.. What can you tell me about that? Also, I love that you are the only person to show a video using a dial indicator to check the clutches.. Very cool!
YW, sorry I wasn't clear...feel free to use whichever waved plate you would like to get the clearance you need. It's fine as long as the waved plate is in serviceable condition and the final clearance is acceptable.
thank you again i have one final question. i need to get the tranny in asap and my final clearance on the direct clutches is .064. this is just a stock TH350 build behind a 305 engine in my trash run truck,. will this clearance be ok on the stock runner? Just as a reminder this is the stock 4 clutch 4 steel no wawy setup.
That clearance should be fine. I always advise doing a line pressure test with a gauge to confirm the transmission's line pressure in P, R, N, D, 2, 1 and line rise in D and R is adequate before going on a test drive.
Good luck w/it!
@@nickstransmissions OMG, i do not know how to do that! but back to the clearances for a moment... so with new frictions and steels and the largest factory pressure plate (has 2 tab cutouts on the plate tabs) that would be a totally stock set up, so as anamateur
im trying to understand how it can be out of acceptable limits. thank u so much
Nick do you know what the shim is out of you can install under the input planetary washer the one directly on top of the planet itself to help set the overall endplay?
Im not sure off hand but I'd shim the pump bearing or output ring gear using a shim from Sonnax shim pack 77406-10. Shimming the planet would put the ring gear forward by .010-.015 which may or may not affect the quality of the mesh.
What is your front end play currently?