Step by step underwater LED light installation on a 1998 Bay Craft 18.5 Flats Edition. Bay Blaze West Marine brand LED underwater lights, through hull application.
Perfect. Love that you over size the holes in the gel coat, did not use any gaskets, and positioned the wires so the sealant will not crack after it cures. Great job!
Thanks! This boat has lots and lots of holes!! To answer a couple questions, drilling out from the outside would have made it difficult to get the exactly where I wanted it. I had some wiggle room on the inside wherever the hole popped through, not outside though. I'll post a video of the intensity in clear water. It's really impressive. I love the West Marine lights. It's been about a year now and they are working great with no finish issues. For the money they are great!! Really happy.
good job as a new boat owner i would have liked to have seen you wire the switch etc i know you said it was easy but when you never did it before it would be good to see thanks
I just put my transom lights on tonight on my Boston Whaler.....instead of drilling a hole thew the boat I made a puck for the lights and externally ran the wires under the rub rail..think it came out looking pretty good
Thanks I'm adding white lights in my 240 sun dancer here in FL. Thanks for the video, gives me a better ideal of what i have to do. What was the sealant you used again? And did you also get it from West Marine?
Loren Andrews Hi! Yes everything came from West Marine. The sealant I used was 5200. It's suitable for permanent underwater use. Just wanted to mention, zero maintenance and zero issues with these lights. They are still going strong!
The 10 sec mark.. Holy fuck! Are you DRILLING holes in your HULL? I don't own a boat. Never have. So, naturally, I think the boat's gonna sink IF YOU DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FUCKIN HULL! lol
Not his boat so he doesn't care. haha. Id probably just marine silicone it to my boat and have the wires be visible. anyone have a link for how to do this on aluminum pontoons?
When you put the first light in at the beginning of the video you drilled 3 pin holes for the screws an then went back with a another bit but only went in 1/4 of the way in so something would sit recessed in that screw hole. I think those plastic washers were supposed to go behind the light and sit in that recessed screw hole. I think that would have made a better seal.
Drew BeenSlacking hi. Thanks for asking. The reason I drilled the larger hole is to prevent the gelcoat from spider cracking out from the hole when you put a screw in the proper size for the hole. You do not want any washers between metal and gelcoat when using a sealant. Those washers are designed for people who mount this light to an aluminum boat to prevent the two metals from touching. You’ll get galvanic corrosion wherever the two metals touch.
that's great but yo should epoxy the hole shut then redrill with a smaller drill the second time to drill only through the epoxy and not leave exposed wood on the transom. other than that Mrs. Lincoln....
+edstimator1 Yeah us who charge money to do this for a living don't have time for that. We do, but the customer won't pay for it. That there in the video wont leak or lead to intrusion for at least 50 years. The light will fail and leak from the guts in before the 5200 will........
This video is unrelated however about the middle of the video I broke a wire and reconnected using a heat shrink butt connector. This is the same type of connector that I used for the underwater lights. ruclips.net/video/uAGt0a36j_g/видео.html
good vid! Comment/question? Instead of all the measuring and remeasuring down from the board, why not just drill a small pilot hole from inside out to avoid lines etc?Any chip outs will be gone when you enlarge wire hole from the outside in. VId well done! How do you like the West marine LEDs?
Does it drain alot of battery. Thinking about install 4 on transom. Did u run the wire to your starter battery? I have a bass boat n not sure which one to connect to.please help. Thank you.
Lee Sirlee no, not a lot of battery drain. A stereo with four speakers will drain more power. Mine runs off my deep cycle, but you could run it off a starter. Just more risky if you kill it.
I know this is an old post, but just wondering if any updates on the lights lasting and any water leaking?? From my understanding the 5200 adhesive is really good but if your light screws up how to you replace it if you wanted to? I just ordered the same lights, but not reluctant to installing them because of the adhesive and/or leaking
Mathieu Gravel hi, zero leaks. Zero maintenance. The finish on the lights has weathered to a brushed aluminum look. They were just as bright as the day I put them in and none of the three LEDs perlite have gone out. Sometimes I have wished that I put in a brighter light however the drain on the battery is probably not worth it. I would do this job again exactly the same way. Put in four lights instead of two more powerful ones was smart. Lastly the glass lenses are still crystal clear. Zero yellowing zero water intrusion into the light zero water intrusion into the hull also zero galvanic corrosion between the stainless screw in the aluminum housing which kind of surprises me but there's plenty of sealant and plastic washers to keep the two metals from touching. Anyway Hope that info helps thanks for the view and the comment!!
Mathieu Gravel by the way if I ever did have to remove them you can slice them off. 5200 slices pretty well with a razor. Need to work the razor under the light slowly slicing through the millimeter of 5200. Trying to pry it off is a mistake because it'll pull the gelcoat right off but this slicing technique once you get it started it works really well. Because it's below the waterline it's 5200 or 4200 and if I were to do this job again I would use 4200 since I never leave my boat in the water overnight. If I did though I'd still use 5200.
Perfect that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Great video and much appreciated for the quick feeback. I plan on doing the same with Seablaze light that are measured up to 700 lumens, I hope that's plenty of light. Can't wait to install them, now just need summer to come along. btw them little lights aren't cheap lol Thanks again
Alexis Oliveras hi. I used 4200. Suitable for underwater however you can remove it without ripping the gelcoat off if you need to. Thanks for the view!
thanks for the answer i am staring on the boat led only interior for now but i want to do does too to expand the products that i sold you can find on facebook by Car Leds Innovations thanks
So just any kind of silicone sealant will do... I must omit, it made me cringed to when you drill those holes. Looks good!! Thanks, I’m doing it... Looks very cool I’m gonna do it.. Where did you get your lights if you don’t mind me asking
Hayes Mobile Auto Repair 5200 is an underwater adhesive, not silicone. I would not use silicone under the waterline. And the lights came from West Marine. They are still working like the day I installed them. All these years later very impressed.
We used 4200 sealant so they can be removed at some point. 5200 is a permanent bonding adhesive and will take fiberglass with it if ever removed. 4200 is a less permanent adhesive/ sealant that is a top choice for underwater penatration's. I work at a boat fix it place for 35 years.
Shallow Sportsmen hi, I mounted them under the seats facing forward. Two on each side. Two more on either side of the console. Sounds great on plane. I have a sub box in the console as well.
Shallow Sportsmen the bulkhead mounted ones are behind the black pockets. You can see the console ones in the photos in this video. ruclips.net/video/kCvRz-8i1co/видео.html
Chris Mohr There’s a flange on the back of the light housing that goes into that hole. You don’t really have a choice it won’t lay flat if you don’t at least countersink the hole the size of the flange.
Actually 5200 separates pretty easily with a stainless steel putty knife. I’ve had a couple through hull fittings that I’ve replaced. Hammering the putty knife along long the seem takes some time but I’ve never had one that I couldn’t get off. And being that it’s below the waterline I just didn’t trust silicone. Probably could’ve used 4200. But amazingly these lights are still working LOL. I’m really kind of surprised anyway thanks for the comment
@@bobbygfl that’s good news.. I got 2 seasons out of them before caving and upgrading to the lumitecs.. Comment is more in regards to the screws… they’re gonna have to be broken off which isn’t the end of the world but 4200 works fine and still have a shot at removing the screws.
Another video of how to mount a light with "and then I wired it" but never shows ANY of the actual important part. Another "how to drill a hole" video.
Perfect. Love that you over size the holes in the gel coat, did not use any gaskets, and positioned the wires so the sealant will not crack after it cures.
Great job!
Thank you! This install has required zero maintenance and is still working perfectly.
You have some guts, i will never drill anything below the waterline.
It looks awesome!
paisa007 thank you. Years later, no leaks and working perfectly.
Thanks! This boat has lots and lots of holes!! To answer a couple questions, drilling out from the outside would have made it difficult to get the exactly where I wanted it. I had some wiggle room on the inside wherever the hole popped through, not outside though. I'll post a video of the intensity in clear water. It's really impressive. I love the West Marine lights. It's been about a year now and they are working great with no finish issues. For the money they are great!! Really happy.
good job as a new boat owner i would have liked to have seen you wire the switch etc i know you said it was easy but when you never did it before it would be good to see thanks
Thanks!
I just put my transom lights on tonight on my Boston Whaler.....instead of drilling a hole thew the boat I made a puck for the lights and externally ran the wires under the rub rail..think it came out looking pretty good
That’s for sure a safer way. No way of leaking through. Thanks for the comment!
We love the video and we are thrilled to hear that you are happy with the lights!
Thanks!
Not questioning your work, but I literally cringed when you started drilling through the hull below the water line haha.
Midwest Bassin ahh. Got it! Yes, agreed. Any hole that can be avoided should be!
Bobby, Great instructional video! I like that you countersink your fasteners; great tip!
Thanks!
I love guys who have no qualms about drilling into their hulls. Nice. :)
Thanks!
Thanks I'm adding white lights in my 240 sun dancer here in FL. Thanks for the video, gives me a better ideal of what i have to do. What was the sealant you used again? And did you also get it from West Marine?
Loren Andrews Hi! Yes everything came from West Marine. The sealant I used was 5200. It's suitable for permanent underwater use. Just wanted to mention, zero maintenance and zero issues with these lights. They are still going strong!
The 10 sec mark..
Holy fuck! Are you DRILLING holes in your HULL? I don't own a boat. Never have. So, naturally, I think the boat's gonna sink IF YOU DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FUCKIN HULL! lol
You are stupid
Gator Pantz
lol... naw... Just don't have experience with boats. I've been on a couple of boats, but I never worked on one.
Not his boat so he doesn't care. haha. Id probably just marine silicone it to my boat and have the wires be visible. anyone have a link for how to do this on aluminum pontoons?
Robert Gantry drilling holes is fine on hulls being doing it for 30 years never sunk a boat yet
Lol
You did a great job.
Thanks!
that paint on your power pole looks good
Thanks
When you put the first light in at the beginning of the video you drilled 3 pin holes for the screws an then went back with a another bit but only went in 1/4 of the way in so something would sit recessed in that screw hole. I think those plastic washers were supposed to go behind the light and sit in that recessed screw hole. I think that would have made a better seal.
Drew BeenSlacking hi. Thanks for asking. The reason I drilled the larger hole is to prevent the gelcoat from spider cracking out from the hole when you put a screw in the proper size for the hole. You do not want any washers between metal and gelcoat when using a sealant. Those washers are designed for people who mount this light to an aluminum boat to prevent the two metals from touching. You’ll get galvanic corrosion wherever the two metals touch.
@@bobbygfl got it 👍
that's great but yo should epoxy the hole shut then redrill with a smaller drill the second time to drill only through the epoxy and not leave exposed wood on the transom. other than that Mrs. Lincoln....
+edstimator1 Yeah us who charge money to do this for a living don't have time for that. We do, but the customer won't pay for it. That there in the video wont leak or lead to intrusion for at least 50 years. The light will fail and leak from the guts in before the 5200 will........
Great tip. Thanks!
How did you join the wires from the lights together to go as one wire
This video is unrelated however about the middle of the video I broke a wire and reconnected using a heat shrink butt connector. This is the same type of connector that I used for the underwater lights. ruclips.net/video/uAGt0a36j_g/видео.html
What's the black cylinder hooked to the stainless plate for?
mitchell9027 trim tabs. The balance the boat side to side under way and make the front go up and down. Like flaps on a plane.
good vid! Comment/question? Instead of all the measuring and remeasuring down from the board, why not just drill a small pilot hole from inside out to avoid lines etc?Any chip outs will be gone when you enlarge wire hole from the outside in. VId well done! How do you like the West marine LEDs?
That would’ve helped speed this up lol! Great idea
Does it drain alot of battery. Thinking about install 4 on transom. Did u run the wire to your starter battery? I have a bass boat n not sure which one to connect to.please help. Thank you.
Lee Sirlee no, not a lot of battery drain. A stereo with four speakers will drain more power. Mine runs off my deep cycle, but you could run it off a starter. Just more risky if you kill it.
I know this is an old post, but just wondering if any updates on the lights lasting and any water leaking?? From my understanding the 5200 adhesive is really good but if your light screws up how to you replace it if you wanted to? I just ordered the same lights, but not reluctant to installing them because of the adhesive and/or leaking
Mathieu Gravel hi, zero leaks. Zero maintenance. The finish on the lights has weathered to a brushed aluminum look. They were just as bright as the day I put them in and none of the three LEDs perlite have gone out. Sometimes I have wished that I put in a brighter light however the drain on the battery is probably not worth it. I would do this job again exactly the same way. Put in four lights instead of two more powerful ones was smart. Lastly the glass lenses are still crystal clear. Zero yellowing zero water intrusion into the light zero water intrusion into the hull also zero galvanic corrosion between the stainless screw in the aluminum housing which kind of surprises me but there's plenty of sealant and plastic washers to keep the two metals from touching. Anyway Hope that info helps thanks for the view and the comment!!
Mathieu Gravel by the way if I ever did have to remove them you can slice them off. 5200 slices pretty well with a razor. Need to work the razor under the light slowly slicing through the millimeter of 5200. Trying to pry it off is a mistake because it'll pull the gelcoat right off but this slicing technique once you get it started it works really well. Because it's below the waterline it's 5200 or 4200 and if I were to do this job again I would use 4200 since I never leave my boat in the water overnight. If I did though I'd still use 5200.
Perfect that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Great video and much appreciated for the quick feeback. I plan on doing the same with Seablaze light that are measured up to 700 lumens, I hope that's plenty of light. Can't wait to install them, now just need summer to come along. btw them little lights aren't cheap lol
Thanks again
where did you get the power pole wrap! thats awesome
Arisch321 from power pole. Thanks! They offer a series of wraps for their poles.
thanks for sharing. did you get any shots in clear water to see how bright they are?
Actually, yes, I finally made it to the keys and they look amazing
would it work with new boats to ?
Dominic Vergez yes. Anything fiberglass would be the same process.
You shouldnt screw all the way in with wet silicone. Screw 90% of the way, let silicone set up and dry then screw all the way in. It acts as a gasket
Lainey Tiller that’s good advise. Thank you!
what do you use for sealing it? great video
Alexis Oliveras hi. I used 4200. Suitable for underwater however you can remove it without ripping the gelcoat off if you need to. Thanks for the view!
thanks for the answer i am staring on the boat led only interior for now but i want to do does too to expand the products that i sold you can find on facebook by Car Leds Innovations thanks
What kind of sealant did u use??
Hayes Mobile Auto Repair 5200. A shit ton of it. If they ever fail I’ll need to grind them out! Lol
So just any kind of silicone sealant will do... I must omit, it made me cringed to when you drill those holes. Looks good!! Thanks, I’m doing it... Looks very cool I’m gonna do it.. Where did you get your lights if you don’t mind me asking
Hayes Mobile Auto Repair 5200 is an underwater adhesive, not silicone. I would not use silicone under the waterline. And the lights came from West Marine. They are still working like the day I installed them. All these years later very impressed.
@@bobbygfl thx good info
We used 4200 sealant so they can be removed at some point. 5200 is a permanent bonding adhesive and will take fiberglass with it if ever removed. 4200 is a less permanent adhesive/ sealant that is a top choice for underwater penatration's. I work at a boat fix it place for 35 years.
I have the same boat and I'm having trouble finding spots to flush mount speakers, if u have any on your boat where did u put yours?
Shallow Sportsmen hi, I mounted them under the seats facing forward. Two on each side. Two more on either side of the console. Sounds great on plane. I have a sub box in the console as well.
Shallow Sportsmen the bulkhead mounted ones are behind the black pockets. You can see the console ones in the photos in this video. ruclips.net/video/kCvRz-8i1co/видео.html
i dont understand your wiring? did you splice into the existing light wiring for power?
No, power is run back up to the dash switch, and there is a grounding block in the transom area that the ground connects to
thanks, great helps
Thanks
These are transom lights, you should have mounted them on the bottom if you wanted underwater lights
Kimo Surfer hey thanks, but I wanted them on the transom - under the water. So I did exactly what I should have. Lol. Thanks for the comment!!
What is the website? cant tell in your avatar
Thanks
any holes?
Thanks
should have installed green ones, work better in dark pond water
Thanks. Good to know
Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
This the equivalent to cutting hole's in a parachute.
Lol.
Big holes for 2- 16 gauge wire
Chris Mohr There’s a flange on the back of the light housing that goes into that hole. You don’t really have a choice it won’t lay flat if you don’t at least countersink the hole the size of the flange.
@@bobbygfl didn't see that, thanks
You do realize when the light fails you’re going to need a jackhammer to get the light off right?
Actually 5200 separates pretty easily with a stainless steel putty knife. I’ve had a couple through hull fittings that I’ve replaced. Hammering the putty knife along long the seem takes some time but I’ve never had one that I couldn’t get off. And being that it’s below the waterline I just didn’t trust silicone. Probably could’ve used 4200. But amazingly these lights are still working LOL. I’m really kind of surprised anyway thanks for the comment
@@bobbygfl that’s good news.. I got 2 seasons out of them before caving and upgrading to the lumitecs..
Comment is more in regards to the screws… they’re gonna have to be broken off which isn’t the end of the world but 4200 works fine and still have a shot at removing the screws.
@@nickzlb77 good to know. Thanks!! The lunatics are way brighter!
bay blazer underwater lights
thanks!
Eggh. Not professional grade work, but it does illustrate anyone can do it.
Lol. Some of these professionals scare me. Thanks for the comment.
west marine
Yes. These are West Marine brand. They are still working perfectly after all these years!
nice video, but the music is kind of annoying.
Agreed! I even find it annoying when I watch it lol
Now you can also visit www.lightnshine.co.uk/
Thanks
Could do with out that music
Maine Archery agreed! My videos have come a long way since this one. Hope you at least found it informative.
Another video of how to mount a light with "and then I wired it" but never shows ANY of the actual important part. Another "how to drill a hole" video.
Yep sorry. Every boat is different.
Just bought 300 thousand dollar bass boat and drill holes in transom ... sign me up
Nice!
horrible music selection otherwise great video
Thanks. Agreed lol
No thank you....
Thanks
WEAK>>>>>>>>>>> should have bought our 1700+Lum. lights for $129.95...made in usa and made of sold brass........you were robbed dude
Thanks