The reason their delid tool goes up and down instead of sideways is because it works for 12th (12th gen has capacitors that would break off with side to side) and 13th gen and der8auers is only for 13th gen
Not entierly true. i delidded with a kit from aliexpress for $9. my 12700kf, side to side and had no issues. i was careful though and heated it up with a blow dryer.
@@Hammercannon i had watched der8auers video on his delid tool and he was talking about how it could be done but he wasn't going to market it as 12th gen due to the risk
Rockitcool for 12th gen goes side to side, resistors are only on one side, so you can only go in one direction, but it works great. Just used the same one for 13th gen. He should have used some heat. I have also seen a bunch of people who were sent this kit have trouble with the threads on the delid tool
@@Hammercannon An idiot surviving a car crash without a seatbelt does not mean that seatbelts are unnecessary. Anecdotal evidence does not refute the reasoning for DerBauer's lack of 12th gen support.
Jay, might I suggest... Rather than using zip ties for the fan wires, or any wires routed along the chassis, get some sewing thread and wind it around the chassis and wire(s) in a wide spiral. It'd be a little less noticeable and intrusive comparted to zip ties, and you could get a gold thread as an accent or black to blend in.
If you are dead set on going with the whole gold and black theme another way to really get a little more gold in there could be to heat the parts and use a copper brush to transfer copper onto those silver suspension wire holder parts. I have seen it done on a few different channels with many different things and the finish is usually really good looking in my opinion. Just an idea. love the channel and the builds ect keep up the madness. :3
The guys are gonna like come in when this build is done and be like "JAY WHY THE HECK ARE YOU SOAKING WET!" Jay: "Just trying to move the new EVGA build to the proper work area..."
If you are overly concerned with the silver mounts you might look into having them gold electroplated. Or, possibly the cheaper option, hot brass brush them.
Have you looked up how easy metal plating is? I think you would really enjoy gearing up to do it and then make those stainless cable tensioners actually gold plated!
ROCKIT Cool de-lidder is very good. Used for my 10th Gen and 13900KS (bought the de-lidder for 13th gen)... no sweat and the de-lidder itself gives you some confidence.
Jay if you want those stainless cable holders to look golden you can try brass coating them with a torch and a brass brush wheel, assuming they come off and there is no plastic bits and pieces inside.
I'm just wondering. Why are you using paste instead of liquid metal for direct die? The benefits of using liquid metal with direct die should be much higher, especially because of the density. All that heat in such a small area. I wouldn't be surprised if your performance is very similar to your regular IHS install because of using paste, maybe slightly worse, I don't know.
He said that he doesnt like the maintenance associated with liquid metal. The paste he used is super high performance stuff, even better than liquid metal regarding temperature cycles, meaning it would last super long and not need replacement.
There is no way this is going to be similar or worse then w/ a IHS. All gpu blocks use thermal paste instead of LM. It's just easier to work with and last a lot longer. The temp difference on the first day will be only 2-3C at most, remember whatever in between the coldplate and die it has to be as thin as possible, the biggest problem with a stock IHS is the thickness (a few milimeters) of the IHS itself. For direct die no matter it's LM or thermal paste it's only going to be a few micrometers thick after the proper install of the block, the effect of thermal conductivity difference is going to be tiny. I would actually suggest people to use thermal paste because if you have a contact problem between the die and coldplate, you can at least see your cpu throttling with thermal paste, with LM and a bad contact your cpu will die before you have a chance to see anything.
@@AprilVic The thing is the CPUs are soldered with indium to the IHS. This is why I think paste would be worse. Also the pump out effect is a lot more pronounced on CPUs because the die is smaller with so much heat output. My 4790K I had this happen a lot, initially it'd be ok but the paste would eventually pump out and I'd have to redo it a bunch. The GPU argument also doesn't work here, GPUs have never had a soldered IHS prior too. The ones which did have an IHS used paste underneath to begin with. Not to mention the density per square mm also wasn't as bad. 350w in a tiny space such as a 13900K vs a GPU which has a die much bigger. They're different scenarios. Also the kit he is using is in every way designed to be used well with liquid metal. I'd agree doing pretesting with paste is fine to check the contact patch, but using liquid metal makes so much sense for the actual cooling aspect. EK purposely nickel plate the block so there isn't really any maintenance that needs doing, typically people complain of "dry out" because liquid metal makes an alloy with copper (either they're using a copper IHS or cold plate). I also don't see him using that block or CPU again after taking the system apart so I also don't see where the maintenance argument comes into play here. They also give you a highly compressable foam guard so you could go pretty heavy with your application aswell if you wanted without worry of spillage into places it can cause damage. Also lets not forget the higher the heatout the bigger the difference in paste vs liquid metal. Seems like a no brainer to me to use liquid metal.
@@AprilVic You would know immediately after applying either thermal paste or liquid metal if not enough was used or poor contact was made with the die. For long term thermal paste is better no doubt although it dries out eventually as well.
I used heat when I delidded my 12900k and 13900k, helps allot. Also ek sent the liquid metal to use as tim between the block cold plate and the CPU die, that's one of the main benefits of delidding. I just got the velocity 2 direct die conversion kit. Kinda cool ek released that. All delidded now just gotta install block
It will never not be funny to me that Jay was so dismissive of the LTT screwdriver he was sent and yet it has become part of his computer building tool kit.
@@tomferguson9250 Yeah very first time I dropped mine it broke a clip as well. Their support was really nice and even reached out to me to warranty it after I left a review, so there's that at least. It's a shame because the ratchet mechanism does feel nice and the knurling is handy, but I don't trust even just using it around the house because I'd hate to break my replacement.
Was the CPU tested after delidding? I feel that's something that would be beneficial to check before continuing on. If it were me, my luck would be I'd get to the end of the build, attempt to power it on, only to find out it's dead and have to pull it all apart and have to buy another 13900K.
This comment should be higher. I feel like just powering it on with that massive gold heatsink would get you past memory training and into UEFI without overheating.
@@CRISPdotTV he benchmarked it for review before delidding. Otherwise the results wouldn't be any good since you're not testing it as consumers would receive it.
@@CRISPdotTV He doesn't mean testing it to figure out how much better it is delidded. But to test it to see if the delidding broke it before making the custom loop.
Everybody I know that got the ek delid tool has had their tool strip. I got one as well and got halfway thru the delid and it stripped the screws right out. I ended up getting the rockit cool tool to finish the job. Ek said this isn’t a wide spread problem but it is. It happened to kit guru tech in his delid video as well
(showing my age) I used one of the original Zalman "Flower" heatsinks, which was gold plated for better thermal conduction. It was so beautiful that I still have it sitting on my desk as a sculptural piece...
So glad I canceled my order for that delid tool. After seeing kitguru struggle and seeing a few people on forums and reddit share the same gripe it would've sucked to use that on my 13900KS. I just ordered the rockitcool instead.
@JayzTwoCents The new rig is looking great! One bit of advice is since you're always getting new viewers when you mention 'delid' it would be good to give a 10 second description of what it is and why one would want to try it ... IMHO.
I love how Jay said that he loves the way the EK waterblock matches the kingpin logo then immediately covers the kingpin with the EVGA graphics card lol
I remember when Paul and Kyle still worked at Newegg and did the Gold Build, and as the build progressed Kyle transformed into a pimp. Totally gaudy and over the top, but it showed me that anything is possible when building a pc.
You can simply have the stainless cable mounts heat treated to become gold. They will simply heat it in a bed of brass shavings until it naturally reaches a straw gold color. It will be easy and cheap.
I recently did a black and gold custom loop build. I dyed the fluid black but primochills vue in gold would look dope aswell . You can also use gold fittings for more accents
The Liquid Metal was for the cpu as well has the removal of the metal material from the delid process You should have got a foam frame to stop leakage when mounting using Liquid Metal 😊
The build looked pretty good with the "Kingpin" and the CPU water block with gold accents...then the GPU hid it. Can't win! It would be a good build to mount the GPU on the backside! It's an open case. If it were air cooled I'd say it would be better keeping the thermals from the GPU & CPU separate. Also, I haven't seen it done. If the CPU survived!
Yeah its a shame the GPU hid the logo, i would keep the GPU where it is but lay it down flat with the fans pointed downwards...or even upwards, and lower it down some more somehow (3d printed brackets?) so it shows more of the Kingpin logo and motherboard in general. But i do like ur idea of having it on the back also.
I knew Jay wasn't going to leave it like that, his OCD. kicks in and "never mind guys I still flipped it." But it's that make sure it's done right and looks good mentality that brings out the details and personality
Anodize all aluminum parts gold. Get gold plated Cables (the braided cables for the frame). Get gold bezels for the gauges. I think that would make it complete.
Jay's going to like this EVGA build more than the AMD one he just finished. I wouldn't be shocked if this ends up at home as his personal rig while the AMD one ends up back at the office as his workstation.
Jay - on the subject of metallic colours, in my opinion they tend to be better as accent colours, & too much of them in a colour scheme for something can end up looking gaudy. Obviously it depends on the overall design/theme, but I just think that it's very easy for metallic (or sometimes bright non-metallic) colours to end up being overwhelming.
That realization at 2:18 when he sees that it's for a direct-die mount & not the standard mount 😂typical ADHD moment, sometimes we miss the simplest, dumbest details. Also the spot around 5:39 reminded me of how I used a razor to delid my old 4670K years ago, I was worried more about sweating on the parts than the razor slipping
Note: The Thermal Grizzly contact frame does NOT fit on all Z790 motherboards! You need longer screws for some. I have this situation on my ASUS ROG MAXIMUS Z790 Apex.
My thermal grizzly contact frame that I ordered a month ago came with a longer set of screws. Not sure if I got a new stock or if they’ve refreshed this, but I did need this longer set that was included for my Z790 Maximus Hero.
@@tsnow20 Mine did not get any screws. They must have brought as new revision out that included that. They told me to buy the longer screws and they would Paypal the cost of it. I denoed it and now I have it but not using it.
Was it me or was a few of the pins looked bent in socket? From the video angle on the left lower side. @8:03 you can see 2 spots. IDK maybe he fixed them already.
Conductonaut user of five years now on same CPU here. It "dries up," because it soaks into the metal. But as it soaks in, the rate it soaks in decreases. Add a fresh coat of liquid metal like nail polish to CPU at 6 months, 12 months after that, and never again. I haven't added more in years with no increase in temps or stability.
Jay, from watching your videos and you talking about derbauer alot I started watching some of his videos and I have been really enjoying his channel now. Thank you for mentioning him as much as you have, he makes some really awesome videos
You know, you could easily brass or gold plate those stainless bits, depending on how much you're willing to spend. You could even do it yourself and make a video of it, it's not too hard.
It would be a lot of work for you but, one ting that you could do for all of the tension case parts to make them look semi gold is to take a brass brush, heat it up, and then brush that on to the metal. The metal transfer from the brass being soft and malleable under heat will give you a Golding effect ish. Its not permeant but it lasts. more permeant if you clear the piece but yeah. its a lot more work but thought idea.
I had the same problem delidding. My screw and screw hole stripped. Just about everyone that has posted a video has had issue with this delidding tool. I wish I could find der8auers delidding tool.
why do you say liquid metal only lasts so long??? i thought it was basically permanent. i dedlided my 8700k with liquid metal a long time ago and its been great. or "has lifespan" as u so elegantly put it lol
I removed that horrible INTEL CPU Socket Lever Latch and replaced it with a Contact Bracket. Such an easy mod. Now I'm sure my AIO pump is fully interacting with my CPU. My CPU temperature has been lowered by 5 degrees Celsius. My old backplate was not designed to keep the backplate from sliding on my MB. I had to order a new 12th gen 1700 backplate from Thermaltake. It arrived with two strips of adhesive tape which secured it to my MB. Instead of inserting the four long screws through the backplate to attach my AIO to the backplate, the backplate has four embedded screws retainers that secure the backplate to the MB. This method is far superior to how their older backplates were installed.
We're gonna NEED to be able to see the Kingpin logo in the final build. IF that means Vertical mount, then your gonna have to make it happen sir! Lol ....It just looks SOOOOoooooo Dayumn sexy with the matching Gauoooold 🤤.. I wasn't drooling... I swear.. haha.
I might be nitpicking but those meters at the bottom would look nicer if they had gold faces or at least black. Just a tought. Love the open cas design
Your shop is so cool, all of the parts and hardware everywhere, but I have yet to see the stack of $100 bills you have to go through to keep this up. GREAT build, best of luck.
Mr. TwoCents, just a suggestion for your cable routing. on the little metal arm things, instead of zipties, you may be able to find little sticky mount that goes there that you can then zip tie the fan cable to, which would kind hide the zip tie from being around the arm itself. Also, connecting the cables to the actual steel cable structure, instead of zipties you could use some heat shrink tube to hide them even better as well, then you don't have zip ties wrapped around stuff and it'll look cleaner. Just a thought, although I think the build is going to look so sick that nobody (except you) will notice any zipties :p
The reason their delid tool goes up and down instead of sideways is because it works for 12th (12th gen has capacitors that would break off with side to side) and 13th gen and der8auers is only for 13th gen
Not entierly true. i delidded with a kit from aliexpress for $9. my 12700kf, side to side and had no issues. i was careful though and heated it up with a blow dryer.
@@Hammercannon i had watched der8auers video on his delid tool and he was talking about how it could be done but he wasn't going to market it as 12th gen due to the risk
Rockitcool for 12th gen goes side to side, resistors are only on one side, so you can only go in one direction, but it works great. Just used the same one for 13th gen. He should have used some heat. I have also seen a bunch of people who were sent this kit have trouble with the threads on the delid tool
@Strong Island X used the rockitcool one on my last build and I didn't even need the heat, just went slow and was perfect
@@Hammercannon An idiot surviving a car crash without a seatbelt does not mean that seatbelts are unnecessary. Anecdotal evidence does not refute the reasoning for DerBauer's lack of 12th gen support.
Jay, might I suggest... Rather than using zip ties for the fan wires, or any wires routed along the chassis, get some sewing thread and wind it around the chassis and wire(s) in a wide spiral. It'd be a little less noticeable and intrusive comparted to zip ties, and you could get a gold thread as an accent or black to blend in.
If you are dead set on going with the whole gold and black theme another way to really get a little more gold in there could be to heat the parts and use a copper brush to transfer copper onto those silver suspension wire holder parts. I have seen it done on a few different channels with many different things and the finish is usually really good looking in my opinion.
Just an idea.
love the channel and the builds ect keep up the madness. :3
You could also anodize them it turns out it's not that hard to do it at home
@@seablake4116 They are stainless steel, not aluminium
@@ic_trab it can still be anodized just a bit more complicated
this is a fast and dirty way of doing it and I love it. It can look amazing.
gonna go that nuts u could just use gold leaf
This build is gonna be a workout to just move at this rate 🤣
The guys are gonna like come in when this build is done and be like
"JAY WHY THE HECK ARE YOU SOAKING WET!"
Jay: "Just trying to move the new EVGA build to the proper work area..."
@@MJSGamingSanctuary LOOOOOOOOOOOOLOLOLOL!!!111!!!!!111!!!!1!!!!!11
Now the carbon fiber frame is functional: weight redux!
@@Nareimooncatt Just need now to dip the rest of the non electronic parts in like a rose gold. and will have one beautiful effing PC rig.
Try a mass loaded silent case sometime, theyre ridiculously heavy XD
If you are overly concerned with the silver mounts you might look into having them gold electroplated. Or, possibly the cheaper option, hot brass brush them.
Or a gold sharpie!
Honestly, a kind of brass color might complement the gold ! :D
Or gold leaf
Totally agree, although brass look like brass only in youtube videos (i.e. freshly machined/brushed)
Have you looked up how easy metal plating is? I think you would really enjoy gearing up to do it and then make those stainless cable tensioners actually gold plated!
ROCKIT Cool de-lidder is very good. Used for my 10th Gen and 13900KS (bought the de-lidder for 13th gen)... no sweat and the de-lidder itself gives you some confidence.
Jay if you want those stainless cable holders to look golden you can try brass coating them with a torch and a brass brush wheel, assuming they come off and there is no plastic bits and pieces inside.
I'm just wondering. Why are you using paste instead of liquid metal for direct die? The benefits of using liquid metal with direct die should be much higher, especially because of the density. All that heat in such a small area. I wouldn't be surprised if your performance is very similar to your regular IHS install because of using paste, maybe slightly worse, I don't know.
He said that he doesnt like the maintenance associated with liquid metal. The paste he used is super high performance stuff, even better than liquid metal regarding temperature cycles, meaning it would last super long and not need replacement.
Direct die with paste will be better.
There is no way this is going to be similar or worse then w/ a IHS. All gpu blocks use thermal paste instead of LM. It's just easier to work with and last a lot longer. The temp difference on the first day will be only 2-3C at most, remember whatever in between the coldplate and die it has to be as thin as possible, the biggest problem with a stock IHS is the thickness (a few milimeters) of the IHS itself. For direct die no matter it's LM or thermal paste it's only going to be a few micrometers thick after the proper install of the block, the effect of thermal conductivity difference is going to be tiny. I would actually suggest people to use thermal paste because if you have a contact problem between the die and coldplate, you can at least see your cpu throttling with thermal paste, with LM and a bad contact your cpu will die before you have a chance to see anything.
@@AprilVic The thing is the CPUs are soldered with indium to the IHS. This is why I think paste would be worse. Also the pump out effect is a lot more pronounced on CPUs because the die is smaller with so much heat output. My 4790K I had this happen a lot, initially it'd be ok but the paste would eventually pump out and I'd have to redo it a bunch.
The GPU argument also doesn't work here, GPUs have never had a soldered IHS prior too. The ones which did have an IHS used paste underneath to begin with. Not to mention the density per square mm also wasn't as bad. 350w in a tiny space such as a 13900K vs a GPU which has a die much bigger. They're different scenarios. Also the kit he is using is in every way designed to be used well with liquid metal.
I'd agree doing pretesting with paste is fine to check the contact patch, but using liquid metal makes so much sense for the actual cooling aspect. EK purposely nickel plate the block so there isn't really any maintenance that needs doing, typically people complain of "dry out" because liquid metal makes an alloy with copper (either they're using a copper IHS or cold plate). I also don't see him using that block or CPU again after taking the system apart so I also don't see where the maintenance argument comes into play here. They also give you a highly compressable foam guard so you could go pretty heavy with your application aswell if you wanted without worry of spillage into places it can cause damage.
Also lets not forget the higher the heatout the bigger the difference in paste vs liquid metal. Seems like a no brainer to me to use liquid metal.
@@AprilVic You would know immediately after applying either thermal paste or liquid metal if not enough was used or poor contact was made with the die. For long term thermal paste is better no doubt although it dries out eventually as well.
Seeing the synced jokes between Jay and Phil honestly make my day while watching these videos
I used heat when I delidded my 12900k and 13900k, helps allot. Also ek sent the liquid metal to use as tim between the block cold plate and the CPU die, that's one of the main benefits of delidding. I just got the velocity 2 direct die conversion kit. Kinda cool ek released that. All delidded now just gotta install block
did you use the ek delid tool or rockitcool?
It will never not be funny to me that Jay was so dismissive of the LTT screwdriver he was sent and yet it has become part of his computer building tool kit.
I wonder if he would change his thoughts on it now? My guess he uses it because it there.
he wasn't dismissive, he said it's nice (but also that he preferred the electric thingy)
@@formbi but barely uses it in videos lol
Just don't drop it, who knows what'll happen 😅 sorry Linus ya clumsy goof
@@tomferguson9250 Yeah very first time I dropped mine it broke a clip as well. Their support was really nice and even reached out to me to warranty it after I left a review, so there's that at least. It's a shame because the ratchet mechanism does feel nice and the knurling is handy, but I don't trust even just using it around the house because I'd hate to break my replacement.
That block looks sick Jay! I guess now you have to remove all the hardware from that chassis and send them out to be plated!
I'm legit jelly about this build. It looks so clean and cool.
But Jay, you need a golden sample CPU for your golden evga kingpin build with the golden Ek/Derb8uer direct die CPU waterblock.
Was the CPU tested after delidding? I feel that's something that would be beneficial to check before continuing on. If it were me, my luck would be I'd get to the end of the build, attempt to power it on, only to find out it's dead and have to pull it all apart and have to buy another 13900K.
Ok
it was, he used it for his review of the chip
This comment should be higher. I feel like just powering it on with that massive gold heatsink would get you past memory training and into UEFI without overheating.
@@CRISPdotTV he benchmarked it for review before delidding. Otherwise the results wouldn't be any good since you're not testing it as consumers would receive it.
@@CRISPdotTV He doesn't mean testing it to figure out how much better it is delidded. But to test it to see if the delidding broke it before making the custom loop.
Everybody I know that got the ek delid tool has had their tool strip. I got one as well and got halfway thru the delid and it stripped the screws right out. I ended up getting the rockit cool tool to finish the job. Ek said this isn’t a wide spread problem but it is. It happened to kit guru tech in his delid video as well
I have my popcorn ready waiting on the next video title "I BROKE my 13900K!"
(showing my age) I used one of the original Zalman "Flower" heatsinks, which was gold plated for better thermal conduction. It was so beautiful that I still have it sitting on my desk as a sculptural piece...
Can't wait to see the build when it's done. I think it's going to look sick.
Looking Great! I hope you can send in the GPU shroud to get gold plated to match the water block, and then you wouldn't need to get a gold logo.
"If I ruin the CPU I guess I'm just buying another one" man I wish I can easily say the same on a 13900K lol
So glad I canceled my order for that delid tool. After seeing kitguru struggle and seeing a few people on forums and reddit share the same gripe it would've sucked to use that on my 13900KS. I just ordered the rockitcool instead.
Guess you're loving the LTT screwdriver
3 of the socket pins looked a little bent. @8:06
Just fyi, if it doesn't post first try. 🤷♂
@JayzTwoCents The new rig is looking great! One bit of advice is since you're always getting new viewers when you mention 'delid' it would be good to give a 10 second description of what it is and why one would want to try it ... IMHO.
The gold looks so good along with the "Kingpin" logo, proceeds to put the GPU in front of the Kingpin logo xD
I love how Jay said that he loves the way the EK waterblock matches the kingpin logo then immediately covers the kingpin with the EVGA graphics card lol
I remember when Paul and Kyle still worked at Newegg and did the Gold Build, and as the build progressed Kyle transformed into a pimp. Totally gaudy and over the top, but it showed me that anything is possible when building a pc.
You can simply have the stainless cable mounts heat treated to become gold. They will simply heat it in a bed of brass shavings until it naturally reaches a straw gold color. It will be easy and cheap.
13:10 "Stealthy build" ¬¬
...the PC looks like a futuristic piece from a Stanley Kubrick movie, dude ^_^
8:26 whenever you screw something that has 4 screws in every corner, use the criss cross screwing methode :)
Jay: I love how it matches the kingpin logo nicely.
4090: outta the way!
+1 just for Phil adding in the off camera color commentary!
I'm saving this video for a day when i'm more stable, the thumbnail frikking sent me down a hole of anxiety 😅
Had the exact same Problem with my EK-Quantum Velocity² IHS Removal Tool. hopefully my i9-13900k will still work
I recently did a black and gold custom loop build. I dyed the fluid black but primochills vue in gold would look dope aswell . You can also use gold fittings for more accents
Gold inserts on the BBS wheels of a vintage Porsche 930 Turbo looks awesome too!
The Liquid Metal was for the cpu as well has the removal of the metal material from the delid process
You should have got a foam frame to stop leakage when mounting using Liquid Metal 😊
The build looked pretty good with the "Kingpin" and the CPU water block with gold accents...then the GPU hid it. Can't win! It would be a good build to mount the GPU on the backside! It's an open case. If it were air cooled I'd say it would be better keeping the thermals from the GPU & CPU separate. Also, I haven't seen it done. If the CPU survived!
Yeah its a shame the GPU hid the logo, i would keep the GPU where it is but lay it down flat with the fans pointed downwards...or even upwards, and lower it down some more somehow (3d printed brackets?) so it shows more of the Kingpin logo and motherboard in general. But i do like ur idea of having it on the back also.
I swear, the JayzTwoCents crew is three Gremlins/Kobolds/WhatHaveYou in a trenchcoat
I knew Jay wasn't going to leave it like that, his OCD. kicks in and "never mind guys I still flipped it." But it's that make sure it's done right and looks good mentality that brings out the details and personality
Hey Jay: gold, silver and black look way better together than just gold and black. It is ok to use some silver fittings and components too 😊
Matches the kingpin logo so well. Lol proceeds to cover kingpin logo with massive GPU. Lol
Anodize all aluminum parts gold. Get gold plated Cables (the braided cables for the frame). Get gold bezels for the gauges. I think that would make it complete.
Props to Doug for the intro 😁
I love the satisfying sound of the ratcheting in that screwdriver you're using.
Jay's going to like this EVGA build more than the AMD one he just finished. I wouldn't be shocked if this ends up at home as his personal rig while the AMD one ends up back at the office as his workstation.
That would be ass backwards considering intel smokes AMD in the workstation area.
Jay - on the subject of metallic colours, in my opinion they tend to be better as accent colours, & too much of them in a colour scheme for something can end up looking gaudy. Obviously it depends on the overall design/theme, but I just think that it's very easy for metallic (or sometimes bright non-metallic) colours to end up being overwhelming.
Not jealous of this build at all! This is my most anticipated build you’ve done ever 👍🏼
This is gonna be such a sick ass machine! I can't wait to see it finished
Right before you guys started singing UP IN HEEERE I was already singing it in my head. It's the little things I love about these videos.
1:06 JaysTWOCents wonders why he got serial no TWO 🤣
1:06 Jay: I WoNdEr WHy tHEy cHOSe tWo.
Absolutely craked me up.
"This water block really matches the Kingpin logo really well!" and proceeds to cover that very Kingpin logo.
Spare parts intothe box... yup! the spare parts from the monoblock and parts removed into the monoblock box, and into the MB box...
I love that so many RUclipsrs are using Doug's "THIS..." intro lol
Roman is probably crying cause you delidded with his tool and everything just to apply thermalpaste from the competition. 😂
That realization at 2:18 when he sees that it's for a direct-die mount & not the standard mount 😂typical ADHD moment, sometimes we miss the simplest, dumbest details. Also the spot around 5:39 reminded me of how I used a razor to delid my old 4670K years ago, I was worried more about sweating on the parts than the razor slipping
Note: The Thermal Grizzly contact frame does NOT fit on all Z790 motherboards! You need longer screws for some. I have this situation on my ASUS ROG MAXIMUS Z790 Apex.
My thermal grizzly contact frame that I ordered a month ago came with a longer set of screws. Not sure if I got a new stock or if they’ve refreshed this, but I did need this longer set that was included for my Z790 Maximus Hero.
@@tsnow20 Mine did not get any screws. They must have brought as new revision out that included that. They told me to buy the longer screws and they would Paypal the cost of it. I denoed it and now I have it but not using it.
Was it me or was a few of the pins looked bent in socket? From the video angle on the left lower side. @8:03 you can see 2 spots. IDK maybe he fixed them already.
Conductonaut user of five years now on same CPU here. It "dries up," because it soaks into the metal. But as it soaks in, the rate it soaks in decreases. Add a fresh coat of liquid metal like nail polish to CPU at 6 months, 12 months after that, and never again. I haven't added more in years with no increase in temps or stability.
Is that a Doug Demuro intro? :)
The gold looks like the heat reflecting gold foil on race car engine intakes, so it fits the theme awesome!
Jay, from watching your videos and you talking about derbauer alot I started watching some of his videos and I have been really enjoying his channel now. Thank you for mentioning him as much as you have, he makes some really awesome videos
You know, you could easily brass or gold plate those stainless bits, depending on how much you're willing to spend. You could even do it yourself and make a video of it, it's not too hard.
It would be a lot of work for you but, one ting that you could do for all of the tension case parts to make them look semi gold is to take a brass brush, heat it up, and then brush that on to the metal. The metal transfer from the brass being soft and malleable under heat will give you a Golding effect ish. Its not permeant but it lasts. more permeant if you clear the piece but yeah. its a lot more work but thought idea.
Anodizing isn't actually that hard either
That Doug level 'This' tho.
Neat. Wonder if heating the processor with a heatgun would soften the contact when delidding. Cannot see myself doing that again, but never say never.
"the gold matches the Kingpin logo perfectly"
Continues to cover up the kingpin logo with the GPU 😂
You could probably get the non-gold parts anodized (or do it yourself if you have a toaster oven that you don't care about anymore)
Just need to test it first now... Imagine everything mounted and the CPU goes bad?
8:04 it looks like there is something wrong with 2 pins in the socket. I hope it won't cause the system not to boot.
Was that "👋THIS👋" at the start a Doug Demuro reference 😂
I had the same problem delidding. My screw and screw hole stripped. Just about everyone that has posted a video has had issue with this delidding tool. I wish I could find der8auers delidding tool.
why do you say liquid metal only lasts so long??? i thought it was basically permanent. i dedlided my 8700k with liquid metal a long time ago and its been great. or "has lifespan" as u so elegantly put it lol
THIS is Jay DeMuro
Instead of zip ties what about using your 3d printer to make tiny cable clips
11:10 "It matches the Kingpin logo so nicely!"
11:25 Puts the GPU right in front of it.
😆
8:04 Was that a pin or two slightly bent on the socket?
pissed myself laughing about the cpu block hahahahahahaha
Black and gold is my favorite color combination. Can't wait for the end result.✌
00:00 Doug would be proud 👍🏼
Somewhere in this world, Jays2Cents with their already delidded CPU is still waiting for their block to arrive...
1:05 - Because someone else bought the number 001, you are welcome.
I removed that horrible INTEL CPU Socket Lever Latch and replaced it with a Contact Bracket. Such an easy mod. Now I'm sure my AIO pump is fully interacting with my CPU. My CPU temperature has been lowered by 5 degrees Celsius. My old backplate was not designed to keep the backplate from sliding on my MB. I had to order a new 12th gen 1700 backplate from Thermaltake. It arrived with two strips of adhesive tape which secured it to my MB. Instead of inserting the four long screws through the backplate to attach my AIO to the backplate, the backplate has four embedded screws retainers that secure the backplate to the MB. This method is far superior to how their older backplates were installed.
Thermal test that 13900K under load!
"I wonder why they chose two" asks Jay of JayzTwoCents.
Im more proud of my boy getting considered an icon I've been watching since the old days when you did your 1st water cooling tutorial
We're gonna NEED to be able to see the Kingpin logo in the final build. IF that means Vertical mount, then your gonna have to make it happen sir! Lol
....It just looks SOOOOoooooo Dayumn sexy with the matching Gauoooold 🤤..
I wasn't drooling... I swear.. haha.
Iv noticed the Block isn't square to the Ram.....I'm surprised Jay isn't ticking over that
Looks amazing, but you really need more gold in that build - maybe gold dip parts of the frame or whatever 💛
I've heard that heating up the IHS with a heat gun makes the delidding process much easier.
I might be nitpicking but those meters at the bottom would look nicer if they had gold faces or at least black. Just a tought. Love the open cas design
That block is BLING AF 😀Dude, butane torch and a brass wire brush and you've got some "gold" stainless steel/steel.
Your shop is so cool, all of the parts and hardware everywhere, but I have yet to see the stack of $100 bills you have to go through to keep this up. GREAT build, best of luck.
Jay: Look how good the gold goes with the Kingpin logo!
Next shot: Completely covered by gigantic GPU so he can play World of Warships.
1:05 because Jayz TWO Cents.
Mr. TwoCents, just a suggestion for your cable routing. on the little metal arm things, instead of zipties, you may be able to find little sticky mount that goes there that you can then zip tie the fan cable to, which would kind hide the zip tie from being around the arm itself. Also, connecting the cables to the actual steel cable structure, instead of zipties you could use some heat shrink tube to hide them even better as well, then you don't have zip ties wrapped around stuff and it'll look cleaner. Just a thought, although I think the build is going to look so sick that nobody (except you) will notice any zipties :p
looks awesome Jay keep up the black and gold theme