The Nikon 135mm ais is a hidden gem that A lot of the new photographers don’t know how good this lens is. It is the only vintage lens I own. This lens is as sharp as the new lenses today. Great for portraits on the Z6. I found out about the Image stabilization with the 135 AIS on accident. I use it on every photo shoot since I received it. When I use it I go to my “U3” and it’s set up with the cpu info on my lens, put in manual mode, I have manual focus on, focus peeking on, and my video record button is set to zoom to focus easier, and the VR is on. It makes it so easy to shoot with the lens. I hope this helps
I have the 135 f2.8 and paired it with my Z6, adapted...the focus peaking works great. Btw I advertised free portraits to my neighbors in the building. No takers yet but I took the chance.
Thank you for these videos. I just bought a z6 today. Already attached a 1982 300mm f/2.8 ai-s and got tack sharp handheld shots at 1/25th of a second. That's 3.5 stops over the reciprocal. Add the amazing low light performance, and this camera just opens creative vistas that'd been previously closed. This thing's a BEAST!!!
I have 2 Nikkor lenses bought in 1975. . .Damn! I know. . .I'm gettin' older. . .BUT thankfully I can still get out with my camera and run around all day shooting. It keeps me active physically and creatively. . .I love it. . .I'm really being drawn to the Z6, but I wonder if lenses as old as the two I mentioned would work with the FTZ adapter. . .I have a Nikkor 105 f2.5 (a nice portrait lens) and a Nikkor 24 f2.8. Both are from 1975, but they're in perfect condition and have always given me great results in the past. If I can use them on a Z6 it would be another reason for me to go ahead and make the purchase. Think they'd work? Awesome tip and, as usual, very helpful video!
Just followed your advise and bang, VR for a 80-200 D now 30 years old. Cannot thank you enough. Will do the same for a few other old lenses I have. The great thing is the new S lens line up are quite cheap by comparison to the older pro lenses. Cheers.
Thanks for the helpful positive tone! “Z-Bashing” is the trend among RUclips fanboys! It’s a superb system and the new II series will change the game for many.
Agreed. As a full time professional shooting with 3 of the z cameras currently , I am advocating big time in how amazing these cameras are! The 24-70mm f2.8 lens is the sharpest Nikon lens I have ever used. Keep up the work.
The Monochrome Memoirs I actually shoot with in the sports fishing industry full time. So I am using the z series cameras for commercial shooting on the water. Also shot a whole film On the z6 in Christmas Island. Walking through water all day long. These cameras have helped shape my work different. It’s pretty crazy. I just sold my d4, 810 and 610 . I am using 2 z6s and 1z7 full time along with the d850. Just cause it’s for my bigger longer lens! Anyways. For the past year and a bit these cameras have been rocking it! I don’t regret switching over at all!
Jessica Haydahl Richardson my experience as well! Me and my wife shot 40 weddings this year and bunch of engagement/family stuff. 317k + photos this year and they have been absolutely phenomenal!!
Everytime you release a new video tip, I am thinking that‘s the last thing I didn’t know. But then a few days later, you explain the next hidden feature, I didn’t know 😃 Thank you for your work! Really love the Z-system!
Bought my first Nikon, FM2, in the early 80”s. Shot with a variety of cameras before that but that camera transformed my photography! I’ve owned several Nikons since then and just now moved to the Z6. Absolutely fantastic! I have a number of vintage lens and this is the information I’ve been looking for. We’re just getting our feet wet into video and cannot wait to explore it’s capabilities. Our stop-gap videos during the shutdown are pathetic! So far, since we’re mainly photographers, we’ve been testing the Z6 and we’re blown away! Still a Nikon fan! Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have for example the Nikon af-s 85mm f1.8G and the Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4G. Do you then also need to add them to "no cpu lens data"? Or does it automatic use the inbound stabilisation from the Z6?
I bought two F3s recently and three f/1.4 lenses - 35/50/85. I tried the glass on my D700 before taking them and the Nikons on an Aussie road trip last year so I could practice manual focusing without burning film. Non-CPU lens settings are even there in the old D700's menus. Not tried old glass on the Z6 yet but peaking's great. Yet, I'm torn; it's very satisfying to shoot the old cameras, focusing manually, no peaking, and nailing focus. Actually, since I shoot mostly in-street with the film cameras even peaking wouldn't always help; there's often no time to focus - you have to be pre-focused and pre-apertured, ready to just raise the camera (or even hip-shoot), instantly compose and shoot. Great point about the IBIS! Oh, my tooth extraction is next Saturday.
Hi there, thanks for the great tips to help us solve this issue I have a Q: I have got a 24-70mm 2.8 the E lens version put it on my Z6II body on 320s shutter speed still blurry on areas like clapping or dancing do I need to do the same and add the numbers manually or the camera will find out what lens and activate the VR inside ? thanks
Looking forward to trying out my 50mm 1.2 manual lens on my new Z6. Downsized from my D4, and I'm loving it. Your videos are really motivating. And I definitely got the final push to buy the Z6, especially over the Z7.
Yet another gem, Will. Opens a whole new life for inexpensive legacy Nikkor MF glass, with 3 axis VR up to 5 stops! WOW ... and peaking focus - huge upgrade over 'split prism viewfinder' w/super accurate focusing.
Very Helpfull, Thanks The Z System is really cool and the new lenses have an incredible quality. I hope they will further improve the Software (like Focus point turn green (in AV-C) if in-Focus, and assaign in Play-back the "Aperture"-Ring on image-replay-zoom..
Thank you very much for the vídeo. I didn’t know this feature. However, if I am not wrong, maximum aperture is f1.2. I have a mitakon 50 mm f0.95, very happy with this lens. I guess if I leave it in 1.2, IBIS works too? ( seemingly it is the case ). Thank you very much!
Thanks for the tip Will. I have a Petzval 85mm Art lens that I’ve always struggled to focus with. Peaking already made a huge difference and stabilization is an added bonus. No excuses now!
@@greghuber9256 yeah it's a great lense. How did it gel with the sensor. I find when it comes to the mirrorless it's a little bit hit-and-miss I have lenses that perform amazing on Sony and terrible on Fuji for example. So it performed as basically about a 160 how was the resolution in rendition the sharpness was still decent
@@unbroken1010 It works awesome with my Z6. I struggled with focus on my DSLR, but with the Z6 Focus peaking that problem is solved. Almost all of my shots are in focus where I want it. I have the brass version and I took it on a street photography photowalk, and it turned out to be a rock star with the brass getting a lot of attention.
Insane tip!!!!! Love it! I have purchased three vintage non ai lenses to use with my Z6. I cant wait to try this tip! Thank you so much for this info! By the way, so far I have the 50mm f/1.4, 105mm f/2.8, and the 135mm f/3.5 and I am looking for more. 🙂
Hell yea brother!! I actually am doing a video on a secret vintage lens coming up!! It’s in the mail coming from overseas and will be here soon. Stay tuned!
This is an old post, but I recently became obsessed with vintage Japanese versions of Nikon pre-ai, ai/ais lenses on my z6. I’d like to point out that you have to educate yourself, know what lenses you should buy, and know what you are buying. Japanese ebay’ers (the good ones) are fantastic with their detailed pics, ratings of the lens, and descriptions. I avoid anything with fungus; I don’t care how fantastic the lens is. I also stay away from brassing on the mount. The rest of it is subjective. The vintage lenses not only give you fantastic results, but they are also a joy to handle on the z6. Their size is perfect, and because they are built to be manually focused, focusing is easy. My favs are the 50mm 1.2 ai/ais, 55mm micro 3.5 pre ai, 105mm 2.5 (I prefer the scalped pre ai), 135mm 2.8 ais, and 200mm f4 ai/ais are all fantastic. Pick up the coordinating extension tube (pk3) for the micro, and you get 1:1! I mean, come on. Now these guys have their place. I don’t take them out in the rain, dust, or high-humidity situations. They can handle it, but I prefer to treat them like that classic Corvette in the garage you only drive on sunny blue sky days. But that's just me. So while everyone else has moved on to talking z8 and z9, get creative. Mix the old with the new and utilize what you got!
Thank you so much for the tip on the cpu lens data to turn the stabilization on. My rokinon 135 f2 was tough to nail focus at 100% because it was jumping around so much on shoots and it never occurred to me VR wasnt working properly until now.
Thanks for another usefull video. A use zeiss 28mm and 50mm hexanon for leica on z6. Perfect street combo. But i wasn't understand, what was going on with vr. Thanks man a lot! P.s. have tried nikkors ais 24 and 105. But this combination seems too bulky for me. Despite of that, 105 wide open rendering is beautifull. Waiting for announsed 28 and 40 pancakes for Z.
Great video my brother. Just had to say I got a little chuckle at your comment @ 3:35 in the video. I have yet to see any vintage glass with VR ;) Love the videos! Thank you for what you do
One thing to watch out for with many older MF lenses is that some are not so sharp wide open (for example, my non-AI 50/1.4) and this does affect focus peaking performance. Once stopped down, it is not a problem.
There's the clap we all know and love! I knew you wouldn't give it up completely Will! Another great tip brother. I have seen this option on the Nikon DSLR's but I never gave it a try. As you said it offers more options on the Z system cameras than the DSLR'S. I'm going to check it out on my Z6 with my small collection of AIS vintage lenses. Thanks again Will for another great video and a great Z camera tip! P.S.- Hope you're feeling better after the dental work bro! Get some R & R this weekend my friend!
DUDE! THIS IS HUGE!!! I can feel so much better using the Helios. However, I have never been able to focus to infinity with the Helios or any of my other vintage glasses. Is there a setting for that as well that we don't know about or is that just a drawback to using awesome unique looks? OF COURSE I had to donate to you man, love every single video. Gotta back someone who backs the Z6 so hard too haha! I'm so sick of people always looking so shocked that that is what I use.
Yes , stabilization is such a nice advantage but with proper shooting technique and maintenance of appropriate S setting one can produce excellent hand held images as well . I've got few old lenses that I intend to use with my new camera.
Thank you. I have been doing broadcast video/cinema for years and it’s standard for manual lens with focus peaking. So looking forward to move up from my Nikon D5200/d300s to z6ii. Most of my lenses are vintage MF or recreations from Lensbaby. (Need to get some more Zenit lenses and try out some Lomography lenses). All of those really optically come alive in full frame sensors, not crop DX/zaps-c. Nearly ordered a used D700 an hour ago for $450, but it’s just a FX version of my D300s that I don’t like using. So I guess I’m looking at z6ii. Also could be a nice back up c4k camera with my atomos Ninja V. Just was trying to go cheap old school camera when I think I need to go modern. Thanks for posting.
Looking forward to using the Z5 as a street shooter with old Leica lenses. I imagine it would work the same way? 50mm f2..... 35mm f2.... 21mm f2 and 135mm f2.8?
You need to try the Nikkor 105 mm f2.5 ais that is also a fantastic lens .....unfortunately I'm leaving in EU and can't give you it for a try 😜......btw some good stuff on the Angry Channel about that lens.
helpful video Will! I was thinking of picking up some old glass...again. I have several before I sold them years ago for the convenience of AF (50mm 1.2AIS, 135MM F2 AIS). What would you recommend? 135mm 3.5 AI or 135mm AIS. Hope you feel better soon.
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs To be honest, I read THAT manual page. Trying some old manual focus lenses, including a couple of M mounts via with an inexpensive adapter.
Richard Kuns it’s honestly one of my favorite things about mirrorless. These old lenses are actually fun to use again. So many good ones out there for really short money too
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Very old Leica Summitar 5CM f/2 with fungus and Voigtlander Nokton 40mm f/1.4. Wanted to get better understanding of these lenses than I can easily accomplish with film in M3.
Perfect timing. Just yesterday I was checking online 135 2.8 AI lens. Do you know if AI lenses will work the same as AIS version once we input non cpu lenses data. How about vignetting fully open and sharpness on Z6. Pls show us pictures. Using vintage lenses opens a whole new world for Z users with focus peaking. Thanks for all the effort despite all the pain. Looking forward for next video. Get well soon!
Thanks you have been fantastic with your videos. I’m so pleased that there’s someone in RUclips world that supports the Z system. Hope it’s not a dumb question, but I have 24-70 non-vr lens superseded only since Nikon brought out the latest VR f mount lens. Does that mean I’ll need to apply this procedure to activate in body stabilisation? I’m thinking not.
Thanks so much for watching Vincent! I’m glad you’re getting value out of these videos! In reference to your question, no! F Mount lenses with VR will automatically apply 3 axis when you turn on the switch on the lens
Useful to know. It's now made me doubt whether or not to sell all my old AiS lenses. Maybe I should hang onto my favourite old MF lenses like my 105mm f2.5 and my 28mm f2.8 and buy the FTZ2, rather than sell them all.
Interesting. I bought the 58mm f1.4 voigtlander and it was awesome....is awesome but I did some portraits this fall and it didn’t do well in bright sunlight. I’ve done all manual before and did on this shoot but the pics with high overhead sun were blurry. I have the sigma art 105mm and did the same shots and they were fine. Idk it could’ve been me but that lens is a dream in every other situation.i was using the D700. Other than taking forever to get the shot in manual the 85mm Helios is awesome too. I’m going to borrow a mirrorless body just to”see”. Lol I love my DSLR though
PS. Take care.....going to the dentist is painful enough let alone getting teeth pulled, filled, scaled! 😩😩 dig in for the next snowstorm, snow rain, whatever it’s New England ☹️
This was great! However, I’m confused, how does the camera (Z6 II) know that that lens is mounted to the FTZ adapter? Especially, as in my case with the Nikkor-Q 135, f2.8, fully manual, contactless, lens. Which, by the way, my search that landed your video was on how can I get my manual lens data into the camera metadata(?).
Quick question a bit off topic, ok, quite a bit. My hesitation about picking up a mirrorless is when I’ll need to shoot directly into the sun, which will happen from time to time. I’ve seen sensors with a burn dot more then once, so do you have any experience or thoughts on shooting into the sun, without possibility damaging the sensor? Thanks for you thoughts.
Hey Michael, We shoot directly into the sun and in heavy backlight all the time. I guess technically you COULD damage the sensor, any thing is possible. We haven’t experienced any negative effects though
I have been putting your suggestion into practice for some time. I knew about that menu item but in the past I had forgotten to use it. One question: it's fine if you install a prime lens, but how can you do it to optimize the behavior of the VR when mounting a manual zoom? (Vintage). I add a note: focus peaking function is quite useful with manual lenses, but for a more precise focus I find it very useful to customize F1 and F2 with zoom at 100% and 200% respectively and focus through this function. It seems to me that it is more precise than focus peacking and thanks to the ease of programming the F1 and F2 keys, I can assign them other functions when I mount optics with autofocus if needed.
can i assume if the lens is chipped (like my Zeiss 135/2 APO Sonnar classic) you don't need to enter non-cpu data ? as opposed to my Voigtlander 125/2.5 APO Lanthar (not chipped) that would require a non-cpu entry ? just trying to clarify what you mean by "old" :-) hopefully if you answer this you will answer my other voigtlander Q i asked 5 months ago LOL
Does this apply to the Z50. It in body stabilization as well cuz I'm kind of leaning towards that camera verse an xe3 on xt-1 I have a ton of vintage glass though m42 Minolta Pentax C mount Mamiya Fuji Nikon Konica nikon rf. Contax g m39 etc I'd like to hear some opinions and experiments about what lens brands have paired really well with the sensor I'm not going to buy a 8 adapters at once
sorry i just saw this vid. nice and informative, but have a Q. since i am seriously considering going mirrorless AND my best lenses are MF i have a very specific Q about Voigtlander lenses. i use the Voigt 125 2.5 APO Lanthar a LOT...love it....BUT it can't be registered correctly on my D750. there is no 125 focal length available. probably since nikon never made a prime in that focal length?? anyway, has this changed for the better on the nikon Z series or does that problem still exist ? please don't guess; just check yours and please let me know
Hi Will, great tip, thanks a lot! Do you have any recommendations for M42 to Z adapters? Would like to use a Helios-44 on my Z6... (Please note that I'm living in Europe, hence I won't be able to purchase each and every product.)
I heard several sources that say you cannot meter non cpu lenses with the z series... is this true? Also that there is aperture lever on the FTZ adapter so the camera doesn’t know what the aperture is on old lenses...
Awesome content!! I use vintage glass as often as modern lenses and this is one of those things [Ken Rockwell] that a lot reviewers have been harsh on. I think it's just because the Z's don't support the motor to run the D series glass, but c'mon - no other major manufacturer has been as good to its legacy glass owners as Nikon. Period. They can't just keep on supporting a platform ad infinitum. Also, I have used the "non-cpu" data on my DSLR'S which gives you that little round thing in the viewfinder but does it have any bearing on the metering for the Z's? I am currently saving up to finally get a Z6 and sure have appreciated your content Cheers
Hello, I have input and the focal length and aperture, ibis came on but the camera does not recognize the aperture I set on the lens, it will not display the aperture on the screen. I’m using ais lens
I registered my 105 2.5 ais lens on my z6ii... noticed the f stop does not appear on the screen... I seem to remember it appearing on my dslr... any tricks to make it appear? Thanks!
yesterday it took me 2 hours to clean the lens elements of my Helios 58mm f2 , today I clean the aputure blades they have a lot of oil , looking for a M42 adapter don’t know wich one to buy there are a lot of them from 14€ to 100€ , I am sure it will be a lot of fun with this old lens . I use a Zeiss 35mm distagon , 58mm Voigtlander and the peaking works very good with the z6 , the Zeiss on a DSLR is easy to focus but the Voigtlander is a pain and i have a DK-17M for my D700 and D500
I don't have a Z6, but I knew this already, as I use a lot of manual lenses on my D810. But I am also planning to get the Z6 for the same reason, but I have a few questions: How fast do you believe you can focus manually with peaking activated as compared to auto-focus on Nikon DLSR with AF lenses?
With a bit of practice you can focus manually just about as quick as AF, even without peaking. In fact, there is a tendency, when using peaking, to keep moving focus, obsessed with precisely where the peaking is. This can actually slow you down. Focusing manually without peaking can be quicker, plus, YOU get to choose the exact focus point with your eye, knowing what your aperture setting is; no letting the camera choose or having to move a focus point. So in some ways it can be quicker; but you need practice and good eyes :0) But it depends on what you're shooting. if you have time (eg, portrait) you could focus manually but could also use AF and pick your focus point or, with eye-AF, let the camera nail it for you. If the subject is fast moving - sport, wildlife, certain wedding moments - then I'd say good AF is essential, though peaking could assist here if you still prefer to focus manually and depending on things like if the subject is moving towards you or across your field of view. My view is that you can and should use all methods and mix it up according to situation; various modes of AF, manual without peaking and manual with peaking. Just be familiar enough with your gear. I also want to say that I've had a Z6 for best part of a year and I still don't feel as confident about the AF accuracy as I did with my D700, though I haven't used it anything like as extensively as Will has.
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Here I share a quick lens tip with you guys. Hope this helps! - Will
The Nikon 135mm ais is a hidden gem that A lot of the new photographers don’t know how good this lens is. It is the only vintage lens I own. This lens is as sharp as the new lenses today. Great for portraits on the Z6. I found out about the Image stabilization with the 135 AIS on accident. I use it on every photo shoot since I received it. When I use it I go to my “U3” and it’s set up with the cpu info on my lens, put in manual mode, I have manual focus on, focus peeking on, and my video record button is set to zoom to focus easier, and the VR is on. It makes it so easy to shoot with the lens. I hope this helps
I have the 135 f2.8 and paired it with my Z6, adapted...the focus peaking works great. Btw I advertised free portraits to my neighbors in the building. No takers yet but I took the chance.
Please keep me updated my friend!
Don't offer them a free portrait. Tell them you'd love to photograph them.
Great lens! I have it as well.
Mark, maybe Next year when I Have a stronger Skill set. Right now I just want as many faces as I can to photograph so I get the practice I need
do You have the AI oder AI-S version and is there any optical difference?
Thank you for these videos. I just bought a z6 today. Already attached a 1982 300mm f/2.8 ai-s and got tack sharp handheld shots at 1/25th of a second. That's 3.5 stops over the reciprocal. Add the amazing low light performance, and this camera just opens creative vistas that'd been previously closed. This thing's a BEAST!!!
I have 2 Nikkor lenses bought in 1975. . .Damn! I know. . .I'm gettin' older. . .BUT thankfully I can still get out with my camera and run around all day shooting. It keeps me active physically and creatively. . .I love it. . .I'm really being drawn to the Z6, but I wonder if lenses as old as the two I mentioned would work with the FTZ adapter. . .I have a Nikkor 105 f2.5 (a nice portrait lens) and a Nikkor 24 f2.8. Both are from 1975, but they're in perfect condition and have always given me great results in the past. If I can use them on a Z6 it would be another reason for me to go ahead and make the purchase. Think they'd work? Awesome tip and, as usual, very helpful video!
Just followed your advise and bang, VR for a 80-200 D now 30 years old. Cannot thank you enough.
Will do the same for a few other old lenses I have.
The great thing is the new S lens line up are quite cheap by comparison to the older pro lenses. Cheers.
Thanks for the helpful positive tone! “Z-Bashing” is the trend among RUclips fanboys! It’s a superb system and the new II series will change the game for many.
Agreed. As a full time professional shooting with 3 of the z cameras currently , I am advocating big time in how amazing these cameras are! The 24-70mm f2.8 lens is the sharpest Nikon lens I have ever used. Keep up the work.
Great to have another wedding pro on the channel! Thanks for adding to the convo Jessica!
The Monochrome Memoirs I actually shoot with in the sports fishing industry full time. So I am using the z series cameras for commercial shooting on the water. Also shot a whole film
On the z6 in Christmas Island. Walking through water all day long. These cameras have helped shape my work different. It’s pretty crazy. I just sold my d4, 810 and 610 . I am using 2 z6s and 1z7 full time along with the d850. Just cause it’s for my bigger longer lens! Anyways. For the past year and a bit these cameras have been rocking it! I don’t regret switching over at all!
Jessica Haydahl Richardson my experience as well! Me and my wife shot 40 weddings this year and bunch of engagement/family stuff. 317k + photos this year and they have been absolutely phenomenal!!
Hell Yea man!I have that 135 and its insane!You just made it even better!
So freaking glad this helped my man!!
This lens is a legend. I bought one last year.
Everytime you release a new video tip, I am thinking that‘s the last thing I didn’t know. But then a few days later, you explain the next hidden feature, I didn’t know 😃
Thank you for your work! Really love the Z-system!
Really glad this helped Tobias!
Bought my first Nikon, FM2, in the early 80”s. Shot with a variety of cameras before that but that camera transformed my photography! I’ve owned several Nikons since then and just now moved to the Z6. Absolutely fantastic! I have a number of vintage lens and this is the information I’ve been looking for. We’re just getting our feet wet into video and cannot wait to explore it’s capabilities. Our stop-gap videos during the shutdown are pathetic! So far, since we’re mainly photographers, we’ve been testing the Z6 and we’re blown away! Still a Nikon fan! Thanks!
Welcome to the channel Al!
Great tip! I have a 35 mm F2 Zeiss lens that I had been reluctant to use with the Z6 but this opens up new doors with it!
Hell yeah man this will bring those lenses to life!
I totally agree the old manual lenses are fantastic with ibis and focus peaking.
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have for example the Nikon af-s 85mm f1.8G and the Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4G. Do you then also need to add them to "no cpu lens data"? Or does it automatic use the inbound stabilisation from the Z6?
I bought two F3s recently and three f/1.4 lenses - 35/50/85. I tried the glass on my D700 before taking them and the Nikons on an Aussie road trip last year so I could practice manual focusing without burning film. Non-CPU lens settings are even there in the old D700's menus. Not tried old glass on the Z6 yet but peaking's great. Yet, I'm torn; it's very satisfying to shoot the old cameras, focusing manually, no peaking, and nailing focus. Actually, since I shoot mostly in-street with the film cameras even peaking wouldn't always help; there's often no time to focus - you have to be pre-focused and pre-apertured, ready to just raise the camera (or even hip-shoot), instantly compose and shoot. Great point about the IBIS! Oh, my tooth extraction is next Saturday.
Thanks for watching brother!
Hi there, thanks for the great tips to help us solve this issue I have a Q: I have got a 24-70mm 2.8 the E lens version put it on my Z6II body on 320s shutter speed still blurry on areas like clapping or dancing do I need to do the same and add the numbers manually or the camera will find out what lens and activate the VR inside ? thanks
Looking forward to trying out my 50mm 1.2 manual lens on my new Z6.
Downsized from my D4, and I'm loving it.
Your videos are really motivating. And I definitely got the final push to buy the Z6, especially over the Z7.
Using old manual focus glass on the Z6 is a freaking blast man you will love it!
I think I'm going to downsize also. I love the D4, but I want something portable and have to lug around a boulder everywhere.
Thank you for the great tip! It was very helpful. It starts at 1:40 and ends at 5:00.
Thank you for a great video 👍😊 I use your tip for my old canon FD lenses... 28 50 and 200mm and it work just great 😊
amazing tip going into the Z6 all these tips will help me right from the get go thanks Will
Glad this helped buddy!
Sir what lens can you suggest for portraiture?
Yet another gem, Will. Opens a whole new life for inexpensive legacy Nikkor MF glass, with 3 axis VR up to 5 stops! WOW ... and peaking focus - huge upgrade over 'split prism viewfinder' w/super accurate focusing.
Certainly is my friend!
Very Helpfull, Thanks
The Z System is really cool and the new lenses have an incredible quality.
I hope they will further improve the Software (like Focus point turn green (in AV-C) if in-Focus, and assaign in Play-back the "Aperture"-Ring on image-replay-zoom..
Thank you very much for the vídeo. I didn’t know this feature. However, if I am not wrong, maximum aperture is f1.2. I have a mitakon 50 mm f0.95, very happy with this lens. I guess if I leave it in 1.2, IBIS works too? ( seemingly it is the case ). Thank you very much!
Thanks for the tip Will. I have a Petzval 85mm Art lens that I’ve always struggled to focus with. Peaking already made a huge difference and stabilization is an added bonus. No excuses now!
Beautiful lens!
You talking about the lomo or vintage
Lomography
@@greghuber9256 yeah it's a great lense. How did it gel with the sensor. I find when it comes to the mirrorless it's a little bit hit-and-miss I have lenses that perform amazing on Sony and terrible on Fuji for example. So it performed as basically about a 160 how was the resolution in rendition the sharpness was still decent
@@unbroken1010 It works awesome with my Z6. I struggled with focus on my DSLR, but with the Z6 Focus peaking that problem is solved. Almost all of my shots are in focus where I want it. I have the brass version and I took it on a street photography photowalk, and it turned out to be a rock star with the brass getting a lot of attention.
Insane tip!!!!! Love it! I have purchased three vintage non ai lenses to use with my Z6. I cant wait to try this tip! Thank you so much for this info!
By the way, so far I have the 50mm f/1.4, 105mm f/2.8, and the 135mm f/3.5 and I am looking for more. 🙂
Hell yea brother!! I actually am doing a video on a secret vintage lens coming up!! It’s in the mail coming from overseas and will be here soon. Stay tuned!
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Can't wait!
Just an fyi. All three lenses set up and vibration reduction working!
Whoohoo!!!!!
Frank Bott glad this helped homie!
This is an old post, but I recently became obsessed with vintage Japanese versions of Nikon pre-ai, ai/ais lenses on my z6. I’d like to point out that you have to educate yourself, know what lenses you should buy, and know what you are buying. Japanese ebay’ers (the good ones) are fantastic with their detailed pics, ratings of the lens, and descriptions. I avoid anything with fungus; I don’t care how fantastic the lens is. I also stay away from brassing on the mount. The rest of it is subjective. The vintage lenses not only give you fantastic results, but they are also a joy to handle on the z6. Their size is perfect, and because they are built to be manually focused, focusing is easy. My favs are the 50mm 1.2 ai/ais, 55mm micro 3.5 pre ai, 105mm 2.5 (I prefer the scalped pre ai), 135mm 2.8 ais, and 200mm f4 ai/ais are all fantastic. Pick up the coordinating extension tube (pk3) for the micro, and you get 1:1! I mean, come on. Now these guys have their place. I don’t take them out in the rain, dust, or high-humidity situations. They can handle it, but I prefer to treat them like that classic Corvette in the garage you only drive on sunny blue sky days. But that's just me. So while everyone else has moved on to talking z8 and z9, get creative. Mix the old with the new and utilize what you got!
Very helpful. Nicely done black and white video. I assume you're using the Z50 for this video?
Wow, good info.
Do you need to do anything if change to different lenses ? Please.
Thanks.
Thank you so much for the tip on the cpu lens data to turn the stabilization on. My rokinon 135 f2 was tough to nail focus at 100% because it was jumping around so much on shoots and it never occurred to me VR wasnt working properly until now.
Exactly the person I was trying to help!!
Thanks for another usefull video. A use zeiss 28mm and 50mm hexanon for leica on z6. Perfect street combo. But i wasn't understand, what was going on with vr. Thanks man a lot!
P.s. have tried nikkors ais 24 and 105. But this combination seems too bulky for me. Despite of that, 105 wide open rendering is beautifull.
Waiting for announsed 28 and 40 pancakes for Z.
Great video my brother. Just had to say I got a little chuckle at your comment @ 3:35 in the video. I have yet to see any vintage glass with VR ;) Love the videos! Thank you for what you do
One thing to watch out for with many older MF lenses is that some are not so sharp wide open (for example, my non-AI 50/1.4) and this does affect focus peaking performance. Once stopped down, it is not a problem.
I have the old Nikkor 135mm f/2.8 with the build in hood. Great lens. Paid $125 for a mint copy from Japan about a year ago.
Such a beast! I used my 135 yesterday at an engagement shoot and manual focused the whole time, peaking makes it so easy feels like cheating 😂
There's the clap we all know and love! I knew you wouldn't give it up completely Will! Another great tip brother. I have seen this option on the Nikon DSLR's but I never gave it a try. As you said it offers more options on the Z system cameras than the DSLR'S. I'm going to check it out on my Z6 with my small collection of AIS vintage lenses. Thanks again Will for another great video and a great Z camera tip!
P.S.- Hope you're feeling better after the dental work bro! Get some R & R this weekend my friend!
Thanks so much Sidney! Me and Sara are relaxing on the couch right now and I’m not moving for a while haha!
DUDE! THIS IS HUGE!!! I can feel so much better using the Helios. However, I have never been able to focus to infinity with the Helios or any of my other vintage glasses. Is there a setting for that as well that we don't know about or is that just a drawback to using awesome unique looks? OF COURSE I had to donate to you man, love every single video. Gotta back someone who backs the Z6 so hard too haha! I'm so sick of people always looking so shocked that that is what I use.
Thanks for your reminder, my Laowa 105mm f2 can use 3 axis stabilization now. Its a great manual focus lens with cheap price.
Glad this helped Terry!
Yes , stabilization is such a nice advantage but with proper shooting technique and maintenance of appropriate S setting one can produce excellent hand held images as well . I've got few old lenses that I intend to use with my new camera.
Thank you. I have been doing broadcast video/cinema for years and it’s standard for manual lens with focus peaking. So looking forward to move up from my Nikon D5200/d300s to z6ii. Most of my lenses are vintage MF or recreations from Lensbaby. (Need to get some more Zenit lenses and try out some Lomography lenses). All of those really optically come alive in full frame sensors, not crop DX/zaps-c. Nearly ordered a used D700 an hour ago for $450, but it’s just a FX version of my D300s that I don’t like using. So I guess I’m looking at z6ii. Also could be a nice back up c4k camera with my atomos Ninja V. Just was trying to go cheap old school camera when I think I need to go modern. Thanks for posting.
Looking forward to using the Z5 as a street shooter with old Leica lenses. I imagine it would work the same way? 50mm f2..... 35mm f2.... 21mm f2 and 135mm f2.8?
Great tip. I have the old 80-200 2.8 D lens. Awesome lens. Will input the lens data into non cpu. Thanks.
Thanks a lot, just got a Samyang 85mm manual lens for my nikon Z6 II and could not understand why the anti vibration was greyed out.
Hey Will, don’t listen to any of those smart arses who say you have spelled vinatge wrong! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the support my friend!
You need to try the Nikkor 105 mm f2.5 ais that is also a fantastic lens .....unfortunately I'm leaving in EU and can't give you it for a try 😜......btw some good stuff on the Angry Channel about that lens.
Hi Will, your clap is back! :-) This tip, I did not know it either. This is also a great one. Thanks a lot!
Hahah! I’m addicted man!
helpful video Will! I was thinking of picking up some old glass...again. I have several before I sold them years ago for the convenience of AF (50mm 1.2AIS, 135MM F2 AIS). What would you recommend? 135mm 3.5 AI or 135mm AIS. Hope you feel better soon.
Good tip, I happened to know this because I had read the manual. Keep up good work! CLAP!
My man reading the manual, making me proud homie!
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs To be honest, I read THAT manual page. Trying some old manual focus lenses, including a couple of M mounts via with an inexpensive adapter.
Richard Kuns it’s honestly one of my favorite things about mirrorless. These old lenses are actually fun to use again. So many good ones out there for really short money too
Richard Kuns hell yeah man which M mounts did you get?
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Very old Leica Summitar 5CM f/2 with fungus and Voigtlander Nokton 40mm f/1.4. Wanted to get better understanding of these lenses than I can easily accomplish with film in M3.
Have Nikon released any updates to allow older AF lenses to to communicate with the Z6/Z7 bodies?
I had no idea. Another great tip. Thank you!
So glad this helped Alejandro!
Great vid! Thanks! I knew about the NonCPU settings, but I had no idea that it activated the 3-axis IBIS system, as opposed to 5-axis. Thanks!
Nice video. How should one input non cpu lens data for Older AI/AIS zoom lenses?
Same way as here brother. Just go to the menu and input the focal length and max aperture
The Monochrome Memoirs thanks! but I wanted to know what focal length should I enter? I mean since it is a zoom lens
Perfect timing. Just yesterday I was checking online 135 2.8 AI lens. Do you know if AI lenses will work the same as AIS version once we input non cpu lenses data. How about vignetting fully open and sharpness on Z6. Pls show us pictures. Using vintage lenses opens a whole new world for Z users with focus peaking. Thanks for all the effort despite all the pain. Looking forward for next video. Get well soon!
Thank you so much for the great tip Will!
Glad this helped!!
Thanks you have been fantastic with your videos. I’m so pleased that there’s someone in RUclips world that supports the Z system. Hope it’s not a dumb question, but I have 24-70 non-vr lens superseded only since Nikon brought out the latest VR f mount lens. Does that mean I’ll need to apply this procedure to activate in body stabilisation? I’m thinking not.
Thanks so much for watching Vincent! I’m glad you’re getting value out of these videos!
In reference to your question, no! F Mount lenses with VR will automatically apply 3 axis when you turn on the switch on the lens
Useful to know. It's now made me doubt whether or not to sell all my old AiS lenses. Maybe I should hang onto my favourite old MF lenses like my 105mm f2.5 and my 28mm f2.8 and buy the FTZ2, rather than sell them all.
😱. OMG I just learn something new. I didn’t know the ibis wasn’t activated automatically with older lenses.
Interesting. I bought the 58mm f1.4 voigtlander and it was awesome....is awesome but I did some portraits this fall and it didn’t do well in bright sunlight. I’ve done all manual before and did on this shoot but the pics with high overhead sun were blurry. I have the sigma art 105mm and did the same shots and they were fine. Idk it could’ve been me but that lens is a dream in every other situation.i was using the D700. Other than taking forever to get the shot in manual the 85mm Helios is awesome too. I’m going to borrow a mirrorless body just to”see”. Lol I love my DSLR though
PS. Take care.....going to the dentist is painful enough let alone getting teeth pulled, filled, scaled! 😩😩 dig in for the next snowstorm, snow rain, whatever it’s New England ☹️
This was great! However, I’m confused, how does the camera (Z6 II) know that that lens is mounted to the FTZ adapter? Especially, as in my case with the Nikkor-Q 135, f2.8, fully manual, contactless, lens. Which, by the way, my search that landed your video was on how can I get my manual lens data into the camera metadata(?).
Quick question a bit off topic, ok, quite a bit. My hesitation about picking up a mirrorless is when I’ll need to shoot directly into the sun, which will happen from time to time. I’ve seen sensors with a burn dot more then once, so do you have any experience or thoughts on shooting into the sun, without possibility damaging the sensor? Thanks for you thoughts.
Hey Michael,
We shoot directly into the sun and in heavy backlight all the time. I guess technically you COULD damage the sensor, any thing is possible. We haven’t experienced any negative effects though
I have been putting your suggestion into practice for some time. I knew about that menu item but in the past I had forgotten to use it.
One question: it's fine if you install a prime lens, but how can you do it to optimize the behavior of the VR when mounting a manual zoom? (Vintage).
I add a note: focus peaking function is quite useful with manual lenses, but for a more precise focus I find it very useful to customize F1 and F2 with zoom at 100% and 200% respectively and focus through this function. It seems to me that it is more precise than focus peacking and thanks to the ease of programming the F1 and F2 keys, I can assign them other functions when I mount optics with autofocus if needed.
Can you use a nikon z camera as a webcam? Connected with a PC?
And if you can, can you do it with old manual lens?
can i assume if the lens is chipped (like my Zeiss 135/2 APO Sonnar classic) you don't need to enter non-cpu data ? as opposed to my Voigtlander 125/2.5 APO Lanthar (not chipped) that would require a non-cpu entry ? just trying to clarify what you mean by "old" :-) hopefully if you answer this you will answer my other voigtlander Q i asked 5 months ago LOL
Does this apply to the Z50. It in body stabilization as well cuz I'm kind of leaning towards that camera verse an xe3 on xt-1 I have a ton of vintage glass though m42 Minolta Pentax C mount Mamiya Fuji Nikon Konica nikon rf. Contax g m39 etc I'd like to hear some opinions and experiments about what lens brands have paired really well with the sensor I'm not going to buy a 8 adapters at once
sorry i just saw this vid. nice and informative, but have a Q. since i am seriously considering going mirrorless AND my best lenses are MF i have a very specific Q about Voigtlander lenses. i use the Voigt 125 2.5 APO Lanthar a LOT...love it....BUT it can't be registered correctly on my D750. there is no 125 focal length available. probably since nikon never made a prime in that focal length?? anyway, has this changed for the better on the nikon Z series or does that problem still exist ? please don't guess; just check yours and please let me know
Hi Will, great tip, thanks a lot!
Do you have any recommendations for M42 to Z adapters? Would like to use a Helios-44 on my Z6... (Please note that I'm living in Europe, hence I won't be able to purchase each and every product.)
Thank you SO MUCH for your Z6 videos!!
Thank you so much for the support!
Hi, does this only work with the ftz adapter? I have m42 lens adapters for the z. Thanks.
This tip is also very useful for new, all manual lenses, like those from loawa.
Omg thank you for this!! I was wondering if my Vr was working!
Thanks for the tip! It is very helpful for me.
I heard several sources that say you cannot meter non cpu lenses with the z series... is this true? Also that there is aperture lever on the FTZ adapter so the camera doesn’t know what the aperture is on old lenses...
Awesome content!! I use vintage glass as often as modern lenses and this is one of those things [Ken Rockwell] that a lot reviewers have been harsh on. I think it's just because the Z's don't support the motor to run the D series glass, but c'mon - no other major manufacturer has been as good to its legacy glass owners as Nikon. Period. They can't just keep on supporting a platform ad infinitum. Also, I have used the "non-cpu" data on my DSLR'S which gives you that little round thing in the viewfinder but does it have any bearing on the metering for the Z's? I am currently saving up to finally get a Z6 and sure have appreciated your content
Cheers
Hello, I have input and the focal length and aperture, ibis came on but the camera does not recognize the aperture I set on the lens, it will not display the aperture on the screen. I’m using ais lens
I was looking for exactly this ! Thank you so much
Can you use ibis on video for old manual lens?
I registered my 105 2.5 ais lens on my z6ii... noticed the f stop does not appear on the screen... I seem to remember it appearing on my dslr... any tricks to make it appear? Thanks!
Brilliant! Thank you very much.
Great tip will thank you!! Get better dude!
I will man, headed to the couch now!
Hi will this also work with Lensbaby lenses?
Thanks brother! I was not aware of that.
Always coming with the tips!
All I seem to get is unsupported lens. Z6, ftzII adapter, f mount af 28-80 and af 70-300. What's going on?
yesterday it took me 2 hours to clean the lens elements of my Helios 58mm f2 , today I clean the aputure blades they have a lot of oil , looking for a M42 adapter don’t know wich one to buy there are a lot of them from 14€ to 100€ , I am sure it will be a lot of fun with this old lens .
I use a Zeiss 35mm distagon , 58mm Voigtlander and the peaking works very good with the z6 , the Zeiss on a DSLR is easy to focus but the Voigtlander is a pain and i have a DK-17M for my D700 and D500
These old lenses really come alive on the Z!
Awesome tip - thanks!
Thanks for watching Carl!
tqvm for this invaluable tip !!
Big time tip ! Super helpful too .
Glad to hear it my friend!
I don't have a Z6, but I knew this already, as I use a lot of manual lenses on my D810. But I am also planning to get the Z6 for the same reason, but I have a few questions: How fast do you believe you can focus manually with peaking activated as compared to auto-focus on Nikon DLSR with AF lenses?
With a bit of practice you can focus manually just about as quick as AF, even without peaking. In fact, there is a tendency, when using peaking, to keep moving focus, obsessed with precisely where the peaking is. This can actually slow you down. Focusing manually without peaking can be quicker, plus, YOU get to choose the exact focus point with your eye, knowing what your aperture setting is; no letting the camera choose or having to move a focus point. So in some ways it can be quicker; but you need practice and good eyes :0)
But it depends on what you're shooting. if you have time (eg, portrait) you could focus manually but could also use AF and pick your focus point or, with eye-AF, let the camera nail it for you. If the subject is fast moving - sport, wildlife, certain wedding moments - then I'd say good AF is essential, though peaking could assist here if you still prefer to focus manually and depending on things like if the subject is moving towards you or across your field of view.
My view is that you can and should use all methods and mix it up according to situation; various modes of AF, manual without peaking and manual with peaking. Just be familiar enough with your gear. I also want to say that I've had a Z6 for best part of a year and I still don't feel as confident about the AF accuracy as I did with my D700, though I haven't used it anything like as extensively as Will has.
Thank you very much for the tip
Thank you very much for watching!
Thanks a lot for this info!!
Thanks for sharing your valuable the information.
How does this relate to Nikon D glass. Autofocus doesn’t work. How about stabilization?
Same thing! If you add the cpu lens data you will activate 3 axis!
Breathes new life to old glass for sure and slows you down a bot
Thanks dude
Thanks for watching Arron!
Peeking feels like a pain in the ass sometimes. A lot of red but because of it I can't see if it's really in focus or just slightly.
is it good for samyon 14 F/2.8 for z adapter ???
Yessir
wow, thanks!!!
You should definitely keep the clap 😊🙏🏼
Another vote for the clap!!!
At 3:48 3 ? I thought were 5 axis stabilization
3 with non S lenses
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs thank you for your help! One more question.... Af-d lenses also 3?
Great Vid
Thanks Johnny!
There is no exposure meter scale for old lenses. Hate this in z6.
But you have real time histogram.
@@TaipeiGeek it is covering part of the frame
Ive found the EVF is spot on. No need for a meter
4:35 Did anyone see that? there’s a ghost behind his right shoulder!
THANK YOU. So weird though