Thank you very much, it means a lot when the boss is pleased. Moving right along with the whole order and should have it ready to go, before too much longer.............. Chris
For removing battery tray tabs, I've found that scoring the plastic where the tab meets the tray makes it much easier to break off, and produces a cleaner cut. Great video, I need to get myself a Rayven at some point, hopefully from a thrift store....
Oh sweet, I definitely give that a try. Sometimes I tend to get a little rough and then clean up later with the sander, but if we can avoid that all together, even better. Thanks....................... Chris
I recently started iterating on the MTB full auto .stl files and I have had some great success with them. If you ever want to have me pm you the files so you can print them up they require about the same amount of internal shell cutting as this kit does but with no need to modify the teeth on the gear or gear reciever.
I want to try this but this will be my first time modifying. I want to know if you have another video on tips and tricks and can you give me links to the parts you used in your video so o can make the same mod because I would love to have a full auto bull pup nerf gun for once
I would love to say I do, but not so much. The kit I used in this video was from Hooligan, don't but it under any circumstance! I had to fabricate extra parts to make it run. In a later video I used one from Atch attachments that was about a million times better. ruclips.net/video/kOXSgV9Z56g/видео.html
Hooligan, but I don’t recommend there stuff. I had to design and print extra parts to make them work. In a later video I used a kit printed by Attch Attachments, and they are far far better.
That's pretty much exactly what I needed! What flywheel motors and LiPo did you use for it? The internals have been in a box for a while now, as I'm having a bit of modders block, and am nervous again about doing flywheeler mods. So I've been lazy and doing springers. I need to get back on the horse as it were. after the stuck Worker flywheel issue that completely stopped me from modding any flywheelers for about 4 months or longer. :( I know those Rayvenfires can be a pain with the solvent welded handle part. At least it's only those models that have the solvent-weld problem One of my Rayvens (the baby-sick green ones) is pretty much painted, just needs detailing. I even got one of those switch-plates, mine is pink too! I'm just scared for lack of a better word to do any flywheeler mods. Have you got any better options for the gearbox and pusher mechanism rather than Hooligan? I can 3D print any parts if you have the .stl file or know where to get it and I can slice it in Cura and print it out. I was going to use a Honeybadger as a pusher motor because of the much lower current draw and higher rate of fire. I'm still not sure about the motor braking on the flywheels and how it works on a full-auto system, I did it on my Stryfe and it's only one extra really short wire, so no difficulties there, I just never rewired a Rapidstrike before either and I have all the things ordered and a ton of 42mm cages printed and ready to go for my Rapidstrikes, Hyperfire and Modulus that I also want to make full-auto.(For the Rapidstrikes should I use a 2 or 3 switch method? The 2 switch method M.T.B. uses seems simpler than having a return switch). Right now I'm just too scared, even though I've done it before, that issue with my Rayven has totally shot my confidence. I know the horrible sticky trigger you can get, mine actually locks the pusher arm on a semi-auto Rayven unless the rev trigger is pressed (I have no idea why), otherwise i just have to gently tap the pusher arm tip and it just pops right back, it's a weird issue as squeezing the pusher linkage channel against the shell also returns the pusher arm. Your method seems a lot better, as does the return spring for the trigger, that box of springs will come in very useful now! If you have a wiring diagram, that would be most helpful as I can read it better than trying to remember which wire(s) goes to which contact(s). Thanks for the video, I just need to do a successful mod to get my confidence back.
These are set up all Meishel 2.0 motors, Matt. And the battery is my go to, for small 2s builds, it's a 600mah 65c 130c burst. Ran the same combo in the 25 Stryfes we built for PDK and he likes, so we went the same route here. As for your Rapidstrike, I always use a 3 switch build, and you'll probably want to order a few big Diodes too. You don't have to put them in a 2s build ( though I recommend that you do ) but anything 3s and up you have to install diodes or the pusher will do a runaway fire thing, kinda like an over volted Stampede does.
I'm running a 2200mAh 2S 60C LiPo with Fang RV's as flywheel motors and a Honeybadger pusher (when the motors arrive, I already have the LiPo's) with M.T.B.s 2 Switch build it has motor braking to stop runaway firing. I'm not sure which diodes I'll need, they go in serial along the positive line to the pusher, though right? I'm not sure I can fit 3 large switches in the Rapidstrike, 2 will go easily into the trigger group, but I'm not sure where to put the 3rd switch to get it to fit, not to mention how to wire it, to me that sounds super complicated unlike a Hyperfire build which is just a 2 switch setup I think, because of the motor braking and conveyor system rather than a pusher rod. I'll have to look for those LiPo's as they seem to be the perfect size and amperage for something with more powerful motors than just Honeybadgers. I've looked around and I can't find a LiPo the same that I can get in the UK, what make is it? HobbyKing certainly don't sell them.
Matt, you just give yourself no credit at all, my friend. Of course you can do it, and damn good too. If you need it I'll lend you a hand with the first one. Once that first one is out of the way, you'll look back and wonder what all the fuss was about.............................. Chris
I'm such a perfectionist I feel like everything has to be perfect and right every time and if I get one thing wrong I feel a failure, my Rayven I spent days on the paintwork on and sunk loads of money into to make it look amazing has been in pieces in a box for around 3 months now, because of one mistake where I warped the stock flywheel cage and had to get a new one, that inspired me to get my own 3D printer as my cages come out cleaner and smoother than the ones from Out of Darts, and cost me about 20 pence to make rather than £10 to buy plus another£10 or so for postage. I managed to find a Rapidstrike Switch plate for Omron-type switches on Thingiverse so I can print that out and it should fit perfectly, it even includes a rev trigger and main trigger so you don't have to cut your original one down and at 0.1mm layer height, my fine prints look and feel like they've been injection moulded, they're so smooth, I just have to wait a few days for the screws to arrive that were like £1.69 for 20, it saves carving away at the stock trigger group and why not take the easier and cleaner route if I have a 3D printer? Thanks brother.
I couldn't agree more. That's why I used the switch plates on the rayven builds. Cleaner Easier Better. And for me , when I mess up, I look at it as a setback not a failure. Think about it, your rayven is going to be even better with the new cage anyway. So the little oops with the stock cage is going to result in a better blaster.................Chris
Thanks very much! I like doing the build guide videos. They are long and a lot of work, but ultimately very fun and rewarding. And if they even help just one person out a little, mission accomplished!
damn, didn't realize how much shell work was needed for the full auto kit. well done! looking forward to ripping these bad boys
Thank you very much, it means a lot when the boss is pleased. Moving right along with the whole order and should have it ready to go, before too much longer.............. Chris
Pls reply to me PDK
Now I own the blaster lol
For removing battery tray tabs, I've found that scoring the plastic where the tab meets the tray makes it much easier to break off, and produces a cleaner cut. Great video, I need to get myself a Rayven at some point, hopefully from a thrift store....
Oh sweet, I definitely give that a try. Sometimes I tend to get a little rough and then clean up later with the sander, but if we can avoid that all together, even better. Thanks....................... Chris
You are 100% right, Easier, Better way to do it. Thanks so Much..................... Chris
Your welcome! I love how the nerf community is so willing to share advice, I like being a part of it when I can.
I recently started iterating on the MTB full auto .stl files and I have had some great success with them. If you ever want to have me pm you the files so you can print them up they require about the same amount of internal shell cutting as this kit does but with no need to modify the teeth on the gear or gear reciever.
That would be amazing, especially after the Hooligan kits being such a let down.................... Chris
I emailed you and published it to thingiverse my dood
Thanks so much, I'll get it printed and give it a go. Much love............ Chris
I want to try this but this will be my first time modifying. I want to know if you have another video on tips and tricks and can you give me links to the parts you used in your video so o can make the same mod because I would love to have a full auto bull pup nerf gun for once
I would love to say I do, but not so much. The kit I used in this video was from Hooligan, don't but it under any circumstance! I had to fabricate extra parts to make it run. In a later video I used one from Atch attachments that was about a million times better. ruclips.net/video/kOXSgV9Z56g/видео.html
Where did you get the full auto kit?
Hooligan, but I don’t recommend there stuff. I had to design and print extra parts to make them work. In a later video I used a kit printed by Attch Attachments, and they are far far better.
Rocky in the house finally. Sorry it took me so long to subscribe my brother!
No problem, Finally the Rocky and C-note tag team ,are back in the game. Much love....................... Chris
That's pretty much exactly what I needed!
What flywheel motors and LiPo did you use for it?
The internals have been in a box for a while now, as I'm having a bit of modders block, and am nervous again about doing flywheeler mods. So I've been lazy and doing springers. I need to get back on the horse as it were. after the stuck Worker flywheel issue that completely stopped me from modding any flywheelers for about 4 months or longer. :(
I know those Rayvenfires can be a pain with the solvent welded handle part.
At least it's only those models that have the solvent-weld problem
One of my Rayvens (the baby-sick green ones) is pretty much painted, just needs detailing.
I even got one of those switch-plates, mine is pink too!
I'm just scared for lack of a better word to do any flywheeler mods.
Have you got any better options for the gearbox and pusher mechanism rather than Hooligan? I can 3D print any parts if you have the .stl file or know where to get it and I can slice it in Cura and print it out.
I was going to use a Honeybadger as a pusher motor because of the much lower current draw and higher rate of fire.
I'm still not sure about the motor braking on the flywheels and how it works on a full-auto system, I did it on my Stryfe and it's only one extra really short wire, so no difficulties there, I just never rewired a Rapidstrike before either and I have all the things ordered and a ton of 42mm cages printed and ready to go for my Rapidstrikes, Hyperfire and Modulus that I also want to make full-auto.(For the Rapidstrikes should I use a 2 or 3 switch method? The 2 switch method M.T.B. uses seems simpler than having a return switch).
Right now I'm just too scared, even though I've done it before, that issue with my Rayven has totally shot my confidence.
I know the horrible sticky trigger you can get, mine actually locks the pusher arm on a semi-auto Rayven unless the rev trigger is pressed (I have no idea why), otherwise i just have to gently tap the pusher arm tip and it just pops right back, it's a weird issue as squeezing the pusher linkage channel against the shell also returns the pusher arm.
Your method seems a lot better, as does the return spring for the trigger, that box of springs will come in very useful now!
If you have a wiring diagram, that would be most helpful as I can read it better than trying to remember which wire(s) goes to which contact(s).
Thanks for the video, I just need to do a successful mod to get my confidence back.
These are set up all Meishel 2.0 motors, Matt. And the battery is my go to, for small 2s builds, it's a 600mah 65c 130c burst. Ran the same combo in the 25 Stryfes we built for PDK and he likes, so we went the same route here.
As for your Rapidstrike, I always use a 3 switch build, and you'll probably want to order a few big Diodes too. You don't have to put them in a 2s build ( though I recommend that you do ) but anything 3s and up you have to install diodes or the pusher will do a runaway fire thing, kinda like an over volted Stampede does.
I'm running a 2200mAh 2S 60C LiPo with Fang RV's as flywheel motors and a Honeybadger pusher (when the motors arrive, I already have the LiPo's) with M.T.B.s 2 Switch build it has motor braking to stop runaway firing. I'm not sure which diodes I'll need, they go in serial along the positive line to the pusher, though right?
I'm not sure I can fit 3 large switches in the Rapidstrike, 2 will go easily into the trigger group, but I'm not sure where to put the 3rd switch to get it to fit, not to mention how to wire it, to me that sounds super complicated unlike a Hyperfire build which is just a 2 switch setup I think, because of the motor braking and conveyor system rather than a pusher rod.
I'll have to look for those LiPo's as they seem to be the perfect size and amperage for something with more powerful motors than just Honeybadgers.
I've looked around and I can't find a LiPo the same that I can get in the UK, what make is it? HobbyKing certainly don't sell them.
Matt, you just give yourself no credit at all, my friend. Of course you can do it, and damn good too. If you need it I'll lend you a hand with the first one. Once that first one is out of the way, you'll look back and wonder what all the fuss was about.............................. Chris
I'm such a perfectionist I feel like everything has to be perfect and right every time and if I get one thing wrong I feel a failure, my Rayven I spent days on the paintwork on and sunk loads of money into to make it look amazing has been in pieces in a box for around 3 months now, because of one mistake where I warped the stock flywheel cage and had to get a new one, that inspired me to get my own 3D printer as my cages come out cleaner and smoother than the ones from Out of Darts, and cost me about 20 pence to make rather than £10 to buy plus another£10 or so for postage.
I managed to find a Rapidstrike Switch plate for Omron-type switches on Thingiverse so I can print that out and it should fit perfectly, it even includes a rev trigger and main trigger so you don't have to cut your original one down and at 0.1mm layer height, my fine prints look and feel like they've been injection moulded, they're so smooth, I just have to wait a few days for the screws to arrive that were like £1.69 for 20, it saves carving away at the stock trigger group and why not take the easier and cleaner route if I have a 3D printer?
Thanks brother.
I couldn't agree more. That's why I used the switch plates on the rayven builds. Cleaner Easier Better. And for me , when I mess up, I look at it as a setback not a failure. Think about it, your rayven is going to be even better with the new cage anyway. So the little oops with the stock cage is going to result in a better blaster.................Chris
Hasbro are jerks with the solvent welding lol. I need a Rayven next but I have trouble finding them.
Yea it can be a huge pain, but as modders it takes more than a little solvent weld to stop us , Right?
I was wondering if I could just cut the wires for the locks that go to the jam door and magazine door
You can if you’re going to do a full re-wire. If not, you can cut the wires, but will have to solder them together to complete the circuit.
@@projectnerf7920 ok thanks
Nice detail build :)
Thanks very much! I like doing the build guide videos. They are long and a lot of work, but ultimately very fun and rewarding. And if they even help just one person out a little, mission accomplished!