I tried this design a while back, it worked fairly well but didn't work well with cheap third party PF motors due to their higher speed and lower torque. I've motorized up to 16 switch tracks at a time so I tend to use those rather than spending over $300 on official motors. I ended up using a modified version of Tom Cook's design that used 2 gears to require less torque. I have instructions on rebrickable if you wanted to give it a try, maybe it was a design you tried that didn't work for you 😅
Well I don't really use 3rd party motors (but I also don't have 16 switch tracks). But I did most tests around 2015. Then I found this one and it just works, so why bother with other things. BTW: I really like some of your videos. You make interestng content :)
@@technicmaster0tutorials Thanks! I think another factor was using old 9v switch tracks in varying condition. New / clean plastic tracks can be a lot easier to switch than 9v tracks that are approaching 30 years old 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks It might indeed be a problem with the age of the switches. I have the impression that my switches didn't work as well as yours and some of my PUP switches are probably around 10 years old.
Could you connect a sensor to the switch and place color plates to the front of the train to fully automate the track? Are the trains too colorful to do that?
Why don't you try it out? You can also see where it works best. I can imagine that a colored plate would work good at a very low point because there most train parts are black
I tried this design a while back, it worked fairly well but didn't work well with cheap third party PF motors due to their higher speed and lower torque. I've motorized up to 16 switch tracks at a time so I tend to use those rather than spending over $300 on official motors. I ended up using a modified version of Tom Cook's design that used 2 gears to require less torque. I have instructions on rebrickable if you wanted to give it a try, maybe it was a design you tried that didn't work for you 😅
Well I don't really use 3rd party motors (but I also don't have 16 switch tracks). But I did most tests around 2015. Then I found this one and it just works, so why bother with other things.
BTW: I really like some of your videos. You make interestng content :)
@@technicmaster0tutorials Thanks! I think another factor was using old 9v switch tracks in varying condition. New / clean plastic tracks can be a lot easier to switch than 9v tracks that are approaching 30 years old 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks It might indeed be a problem with the age of the switches. I have the impression that my switches didn't work as well as yours and some of my PUP switches are probably around 10 years old.
Could you connect a sensor to the switch and place color plates to the front of the train to fully automate the track? Are the trains too colorful to do that?
Why don't you try it out? You can also see where it works best. I can imagine that a colored plate would work good at a very low point because there most train parts are black
"how to " --"
go read these other isntructions"...ok
You can also try to copy the build from the video if you really don't want to use the instructions. But it will be much easier to use them ;)