@@ShaminosWorkshop unfortunately i do not own a 3d printer or have the materials necessary to make that myself, is not just available for purchase fully built? i can’t seem to find any information about it
No, I do not believe Roman Props offers any installed options, just fx ready. So you would have to buy it empty and then have it installed. However there are other versions of this hilt, like the 89sabers OWK, which is often sold installed by other distributors. It will not be anything like this however
@@ShaminosWorkshop i asked if the crystal chamber can be purchased fully built, i do not have the resources to print out each step of that and assemble it myself
@@nicholasmccartney2521 I do not make or print the goth master chassis. I provided you a link to the makers site and instruction page, did you ask the maker?
@@ShaminosWorkshop I’m sorry my bad. Probably RUclips did. I added link about board wiring maybe it caused that I don’t know... Actually I asked your help about wiring ShtokCustomWorx connector. I was watching your another video about that. I’m thinking to build my first saber with Shtok connector. I’ll try to do v4 separate Blade and connector LEDs.also add crystal chamber.Board is Proffie. I have some questions it would be great if you could help me First of all I want to ask you about wiring diagram. When I use fredrik.hubbe site, m.imgur(dot)com/a/ypcfDx2 Is this diagram ok to do that build? For example when I look at shtoks manual, from the connector two negative cables use one pad each on the board. But when I checked that diagram on the web site. It shows negatives use two pads on the board (2+2). Why is that? In your video you soldered just one positive to connector, but on the manual it shows two positives go to the battery.? Also you preferred not to use blade detection. I know it’s preference but Isn’t that a good thing? I appreciate your videos. They are really useful to understand how to build saber, wiring and soldering... Thank you !
@@Burak-vh2xt The diagram builder is good, but it does not cover all scenarios, like when a shtok pixel pcb is used in v4 mode. You also seem to have both a recharge port and a kill switch. Which is not uncommon but may not be necessary to have both. The generator also cannot know what type of wire and gauge you are using, which impacts the number of wires used. If you use 24awg wires for power, then you need to double up. If you use 22awg for power, then you only need a single wire. For the neopixel gnd it is recommended to use 2 LED pads on the proffieboard. Since a full length blade usually has more than 200 pixels, that is alot of amps, and so you want to drive those pixels with multiple mosfets (aka pads) on the proffieboard
@@ShaminosWorkshop Thank you for your answer. Actually I’m not thinking make a recharge port it was already in the diagram, couldn’t delete it. Could you tell me the gauge of the cables that I should on that diagram.
@@Burak-vh2xt generally I use the following for battery positive and negative: 22awg for led positive and negative: 22awg or 2x 24awg for speaker: I use 26awg due to the newer boards having stronger amps. But some will use 28awg or 30awg for switches and data lines: I use 30awg for 3mm or 5mm accent leds: Usually 28awg Basically where there is going to be high amps, you need stronger gauge wire (22 or 24). everything else can smaller gauge
![ARGENTINA vs. BOLIVIA [6-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C3wPtKNbAOA/mqdefault.jpg)
how much does your commission cost if you get a crystal reveal chassis
where can we purchase goth 3d master crystal reveal chassis? i only see DIY instructions
All of the information is on the DIY page
goth-3designs.com/instructions/diy-roman-inception/
@@ShaminosWorkshop unfortunately i do not own a 3d printer or have the materials necessary to make that myself, is not just available for purchase fully built? i can’t seem to find any information about it
No, I do not believe Roman Props offers any installed options, just fx ready. So you would have to buy it empty and then have it installed.
However there are other versions of this hilt, like the 89sabers OWK, which is often sold installed by other distributors. It will not be anything like this however
@@ShaminosWorkshop i asked if the crystal chamber can be purchased fully built, i do not have the resources to print out each step of that and assemble it myself
@@nicholasmccartney2521 I do not make or print the goth master chassis. I provided you a link to the makers site and instruction page, did you ask the maker?
Why did you delete my comment?
I didn’t delete any comments.
@@ShaminosWorkshop
I’m sorry my bad. Probably RUclips did. I added link about board wiring maybe it caused that I don’t know...
Actually I asked your help about wiring ShtokCustomWorx connector. I was watching your another video about that.
I’m thinking to build my first saber with
Shtok connector. I’ll try to do v4 separate
Blade and connector LEDs.also add crystal chamber.Board is Proffie.
I have some questions it would be great if you could help me
First of all I want to ask you about wiring diagram.
When I use fredrik.hubbe site,
m.imgur(dot)com/a/ypcfDx2
Is this diagram ok to do that build?
For example when I look at shtoks manual, from the connector two negative cables use one pad each on the board. But when I checked that diagram on the web site. It shows negatives use two pads on the board (2+2). Why is that?
In your video you soldered just one positive to connector, but on the manual it shows two positives go to the battery.?
Also you preferred not to use blade detection. I know it’s preference but Isn’t that a good thing?
I appreciate your videos. They are really useful to understand how to build saber, wiring and soldering...
Thank you !
@@Burak-vh2xt The diagram builder is good, but it does not cover all scenarios, like when a shtok pixel pcb is used in v4 mode. You also seem to have both a recharge port and a kill switch. Which is not uncommon but may not be necessary to have both.
The generator also cannot know what type of wire and gauge you are using, which impacts the number of wires used. If you use 24awg wires for power, then you need to double up. If you use 22awg for power, then you only need a single wire.
For the neopixel gnd it is recommended to use 2 LED pads on the proffieboard. Since a full length blade usually has more than 200 pixels, that is alot of amps, and so you want to drive those pixels with multiple mosfets (aka pads) on the proffieboard
@@ShaminosWorkshop
Thank you for your answer. Actually I’m not thinking make a recharge port it was already in the diagram, couldn’t delete it.
Could you tell me the gauge of the cables that I should on that diagram.
@@Burak-vh2xt generally I use the following
for battery positive and negative: 22awg
for led positive and negative: 22awg or 2x 24awg
for speaker: I use 26awg due to the newer boards having stronger amps. But some will use 28awg or 30awg
for switches and data lines: I use 30awg
for 3mm or 5mm accent leds: Usually 28awg
Basically where there is going to be high amps, you need stronger gauge wire (22 or 24). everything else can smaller gauge