correct. as long as you dilute correctly according to instructions, the difference between 5:5:5 and 20:20:20 is that the former contains 85% non active filler material that you're hauling home, whilst the latter only contains 40% filler material. you cant make a usable fertilizer that is 100% active ingredients but, the higher concentrated product is usually cheaper, on a proper dilution basis and cost per square metre fertilized. organic movement tend to make up porkies that align with same kinds of claims in the wellness snakeoil industry, where the more diluted the ingredients the better, lol.
Yes, but lawn is not the same as shrubs with flowers or summer bloomers that live only one year. The main purpose of grass is growing: hence the 3 of nitrogen, it's stimulates the growth, the rest is of less importance for grass/lawn, hence the 1 P and the 2 K.
I did a 5-1-4 last year, but it was really only good for above ground growth, lawn, and corn and maybe not ideal on potatoes. This year I got a 4-1-4 to push more potassium and less nitrogen and a 1-3-2 (for onset of blooming) to see if I can increase yields on things like tomatoes, potatoes, and alliums. Also the new fertilizers are all copper edta instead of sulphate, so that may help a little with pest resistance.
we use YaraMila N-P-K 24-4-5 on our grass. (for animal feed) it makes a difference if you have clay soil or sandy soil, or if you often use stable manure. Then maybe you need more or less P or K
10-52-10 for stimulating root growth, 20-20-20 balanced overall fertilizer, 10-30-20 for bud stimulation. Ratio is not the same as percentage: 1.1.1 means equal amounts: could be 20-20-20 or 5-5-5, whatever. That's the percentage of N-P-K, rest is ballast. One teaspoon of 20-20-20 is not the same as one teaspoon of 5-5-5 although it has the same ratio. Liquid fertilizers often have lower N-P-K numbers than water soluble powder. The plant absorbs the liquids faster I guess, hence the lower number. There must be a difference or are all those manufacturers clowns?
That information is NOT correct. Phosphorus does not stimulate roots or flowers and using a high P fertilizer can cause all kinds of problems. ruclips.net/video/_NJK3LFeFhc/видео.html
The other oddity I see is side dressing fertilizer. Sure that is convenient, but isn’t top dressing always preferred? It always seemed like a waste of fertilizer. It’s popular for onions and corn. Can’t they just do a top dress with a high number and buffers so it disperses over time? It's just not intuitive.
For longer term crops the initial application, or top dressing, of fertilizer does not last long enough. Most longer term "slow release" fertilizers still don't last long enough, and some may release too slowly during earlier stages of growth, or even too fast for such small plants. Big commercial farmers apply side dressing on long season crops because a one-and-done product does not exist. It can't exist. Timing and amount of side dressing to apply changes from season to season. Soil moisture and soil temperatures are slightly different from year to year and that impacts how fast soil microbes and plants will consume the fertilizer. Home gardeners are not running mid-crop soil tests to determine optimal side dressing concentrations, but farmers are. Experienced home gardeners may observe their longer term crops seem to slow down and get some leaf yellowing at a certain point in the season and side dress upon noticing it, or, with experience, hit it a week or two before this typically happens.
I don’t think this gentleman understands his subject. Why would someone refer to potassium oxide as potash? Potash is a general term for potassium compounds left after burning wood. NPK 5:5:5 DOES mean 5 per cent of these constituents in whatever chemical compounds they exist. Thus the nitrogen maybe as nitrates or ammonia but the nitrogen atom is at 5 per cent
@@cbryanto it isn't filler(more than 5% of total volume at least), it's sulfur, chloride etc. kcl(potassium chloride ) is usually 52% K2O(potassium), 39% Cl(chloride)
Will burn the roots I guess? No ballast/fillers, will be too much of a good thing. You cannot fertilize each week or month with 100-100-100 will kill your plants.
When the level of nitrogen gets too high it is easier to burn roots by using too much. 10 to 20% nitrogen is a range that fits the way we spread fertilizer. Urea is 46% N, and careless gardeners can easily kill their lawn with it.
Have you ever researched different brands to find one that has the most elements to give a plant everything it needs to get maximum health? Some cheaper brands just have N-P-K.
Thanks for the information. I really appreciate it 👍
correct. as long as you dilute correctly according to instructions, the difference between 5:5:5 and 20:20:20 is that the former contains 85% non active filler material that you're hauling home, whilst the latter only contains 40% filler material. you cant make a usable fertilizer that is 100% active ingredients but, the higher concentrated product is usually cheaper, on a proper dilution basis and cost per square metre fertilized.
organic movement tend to make up porkies that align with same kinds of claims in the wellness snakeoil industry, where the more diluted the ingredients the better, lol.
Lawn fertilizer has in many cases the ideal 3-1-2 NPK ratio. It is also typically the cheapest fertilizer. Check it out for yourself.
Yes, but lawn is not the same as shrubs with flowers or summer bloomers that live only one year. The main purpose of grass is growing: hence the 3 of nitrogen, it's stimulates the growth, the rest is of less importance for grass/lawn, hence the 1 P and the 2 K.
I did a 5-1-4 last year, but it was really only good for above ground growth, lawn, and corn and maybe not ideal on potatoes. This year I got a 4-1-4 to push more potassium and less nitrogen and a 1-3-2 (for onset of blooming) to see if I can increase yields on things like tomatoes, potatoes, and alliums. Also the new fertilizers are all copper edta instead of sulphate, so that may help a little with pest resistance.
A 3-1-2 ratio is best for most plants.
we use YaraMila N-P-K 24-4-5 on our grass. (for animal feed) it makes a difference if you have clay soil or sandy soil, or if you often use stable manure. Then maybe you need more or less P or K
Cheapest based on ? Cost per bag - cost of total useful ingredients
Depends on the bag size....
50 pounds of each have completely different application rates.
Correct - that is what the video says. But higher nutrient levels is cheaper.
hello
what about growing in containers should we have the same approach?
I'm French sorry for the English it's google translate
best wishes
Thank you!
Great video and Thanks for sharing. Always wondered about these numbers. Love my Miracle Grow, (sorry haters) It's Awesome stuff.
Thanks for sharing
What in your opinion is the best fertiliser for Bermuda grass?
Bermuda? Triangle perhaps?
Tks
10-52-10 for stimulating root growth, 20-20-20 balanced overall fertilizer, 10-30-20 for bud stimulation. Ratio is not the same as percentage: 1.1.1 means equal amounts: could be 20-20-20 or 5-5-5, whatever. That's the percentage of N-P-K, rest is ballast. One teaspoon of 20-20-20 is not the same as one teaspoon of 5-5-5 although it has the same ratio. Liquid fertilizers often have lower N-P-K numbers than water soluble powder. The plant absorbs the liquids faster I guess, hence the lower number. There must be a difference or are all those manufacturers clowns?
That information is NOT correct. Phosphorus does not stimulate roots or flowers and using a high P fertilizer can cause all kinds of problems.
ruclips.net/video/_NJK3LFeFhc/видео.html
what is the best fertilizer for Bermuda grass?
most grasses don't have to be fertilized at all.
Tks again .
Roundup?
Lol
Fertilizer needs will vary on the time of the year, type of plant, and stage of the plant growth in most cases
101010 is the best
The other oddity I see is side dressing fertilizer. Sure that is convenient, but isn’t top dressing always preferred? It always seemed like a waste of fertilizer. It’s popular for onions and corn. Can’t they just do a top dress with a high number and buffers so it disperses over time?
It's just not intuitive.
For longer term crops the initial application, or top dressing, of fertilizer does not last long enough. Most longer term "slow release" fertilizers still don't last long enough, and some may release too slowly during earlier stages of growth, or even too fast for such small plants. Big commercial farmers apply side dressing on long season crops because a one-and-done product does not exist. It can't exist. Timing and amount of side dressing to apply changes from season to season. Soil moisture and soil temperatures are slightly different from year to year and that impacts how fast soil microbes and plants will consume the fertilizer. Home gardeners are not running mid-crop soil tests to determine optimal side dressing concentrations, but farmers are. Experienced home gardeners may observe their longer term crops seem to slow down and get some leaf yellowing at a certain point in the season and side dress upon noticing it, or, with experience, hit it a week or two before this typically happens.
The problem is different nutrients move differently through soil. top dressing does not get P to the roots.
Looks like people commenting have some problems with math. 😂
yay....somebody else actually understands ratios and doesn't fall for the BS.
exactly the same ratio... just in different amounts
I don’t think this gentleman understands his subject. Why would someone refer to potassium oxide as potash? Potash is a general term for potassium compounds left after burning wood.
NPK 5:5:5 DOES mean 5 per cent of these constituents in whatever chemical compounds they exist. Thus the nitrogen maybe as nitrates or ammonia but the nitrogen atom is at 5 per cent
why not 100, 100,100?
Can't be that. The most it could be is 33.3--33.3--33.3. That would be close to 100%.
@@heatrick1192 of course... but still why the filler?
@@cbryanto it isn't filler(more than 5% of total volume at least), it's sulfur, chloride etc.
kcl(potassium chloride ) is usually 52% K2O(potassium), 39% Cl(chloride)
Will burn the roots I guess? No ballast/fillers, will be too much of a good thing. You cannot fertilize each week or month with 100-100-100 will kill your plants.
When the level of nitrogen gets too high it is easier to burn roots by using too much. 10 to 20% nitrogen is a range that fits the way we spread fertilizer.
Urea is 46% N, and careless gardeners can easily kill their lawn with it.
Have you ever researched different brands to find one that has the most elements to give a plant everything it needs to get maximum health? Some cheaper brands just have N-P-K.
Check the ingredients on different brands - synthetic fertilizer mostly uses the same ingredients.