Modified Cetus 3D printing ABS and Polycarbonate, Revolutionary timelapse
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Cetus 3D Printer: shop.tiertime....
5% COUPON code for Cetus: 5pctoff
Your own Surveillance Snake: bit.ly/2PcDEd0
ELP Camera DE Amazion : goo.gl/b5oxRR
ELP Camera Amazon : goo.gl/hWB7Qp
ELP Camera Aliexpress : goo.gl/jMy1W6
Printreon: / marcoreps
Temperature controller schematic: reps.cc/?p=88
Smooth time lapse code: reps.cc/?p=85
In this video I'll equip the Cetus 3D printer with a heated build platform and an enclosure to make printing of advanced materials like ABS and even polycarbonate possible. I'll also show a revolutionary way of selecting similar frames to get a super smooth timelapse.
Dude lol, I find it hilarious how much you love the cetus. I find it pretty under engineered. It is basically ignoring many 3d printer advancements over the years. No self adhering heated bed. Non geared, unconstrained direct drive extruder that makes flexible almost impossible. No type of pressure advance. At least it has a rock solid motion platform with the rails and belt driven Z. It seems like a printer stuck in 2014.
Still, I bet an enclosed coreXY printer using a e3d Hemera extruder, running a duet with Reprap firmware and pressure advance with a heated removable flexible pei sheet bed and hiwin rails would blow your mind. You could run prints at like 250mm/s with acceleration values of like 3000 with damned near perfect quality. You can literally lift the printer by the extruder with a geared dual drive system. If the filament could hold the weight that is.
You should build one up to the standards of your sick CNC mill. Go crazy with it. Ball screws, Hiwin rails, heated enclosure with water cooling. I wanna see you print some engineering grade plastics like PEEK and PEI.
I was about to comment about how great the timelapse at the beginning looked, never saw any 3d printer timelapse that smooth! Great you explained it, awsome what you came up with
Your videos are AMAZING, and they always make me think of "look around you" for some reason...
Top quality videos, interesting topics, good humour and regular uploads. I feel bad that you don't have more subscribers and views. Keep up the good work!
Oh I am very happy with a slow but steady growth and because I don't do advertising on other platforms, everyone who's here has found my stuff by himself which is cool.
Qualitiy video as usual! Informative, funny, well edited. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I find the lack of Keithley test gear in this video disturbing. Very nice video btw.
It's a joy to find a place like here, with such a good and informative technical content. Thanks.
Dude.... You seriously have an awesome brain. 🤔 your attention to detail and ability to explain things are enviable. Awesome work.
Thank you
OctoPrint has a nice Timelapse feature, that only takes a snapshot when it detects a z change in the gcode. Does exactly what you want, makes beautifully smooth time lapses. Especially if you attach the camera to the heated bed.
Nice timelapse! I actually did something similar recently... by injecting gcode to take a snapshot every time the Z axis changes and move the hotend away to a fixed location before taking a snapshot.
This seems to be the best solution
Unless the fixed location is directly in front of the camera.
Won't moving your print head that much between layers have some effect on your print quality?
+Ant yes and no, there are definitively some ways to mitigate the effects.
That would really slow down your prints. I think this opencv is a nice solution although, ...well this topic can get complicated.
Great enclosure build with aluminum frame and acrylic window panes.
I built a wooden box around the cetus, but had to add also a 12V fan. The stored heat was messing up the z-axis and the belt started to slip above 50°C. I also printed the fan extension from thingiverse for 60mm fans, since the factory 40mm fan is with 38db a bit to noisy and you can buy 60mm fans for less than 5euros double your cfm and reduce the noise to 21db.
I think PETG pretty much made ABS obsolete for most - but not all - use cases. It's sooo much easier to print than ABS (no enclosure needed, but you need a heated bed) and is super strong. Plus it can make a really detailed print when you have those settings tuned in so no vapor smoothing needed.
I have never seen a low-cost PETG. I got my ABS for £7/kg.
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan True, you can get super cheap ABS. On Amazon where I get most of my reels it's about the same cost (20-25 USD/Kg) for ABS/PLA/PETG from the lower cost ones I trust (eSun, Hatchbox, and MG Chemicals).
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan where ?
Well, in my experience, low cost ABS has cost me more than my PETG; in failed prints alone and time wasted :P
But then again, I don't have an enclosure, so before I try doing ABS again, I will build an enclosure. Problem is that the material I want for the enclosure on my Delta, is either too expensive or the shipping is ass (channeled polycarbonate)! All easy to get acrylic/plexi etc, is too expensive... I just have to move first(Where I rent now, has become both too expensive and inconvenient), before I order the channeled polycarbonate and some other stuff, to justify the shipping a bit more :)
i love your dry sense of humour Marco ! BTW pass on my best regards to surveillance snake, if he's watching.......
I noticed! It was absolutely butter!!!
Octoprint does the timelapse on z change with a plugin. Also lets you load/monitor prints wirelessly on your home wifi connection.
no snake thought, i will pass
Neat! I've been using OpenCV on a Pi Zero with a camera to catch my cat stealing food from my dog's bowl. Just gotta figure out what to have it do to get her to stop, maybe spray some water using an actuator or something.
Cool! Does the Pi Zero also have multiple CPU cores? I am definitely going to try to compile OpenCV for using multiple, and maybe even GPU, that would be so much more powerful ...
Oh cool, waiting for my 3D printer to arrive Tronxy X1), and I'm gonna use Octoprint with it, so ordered the Pi camera module as well. Already have an old Raspberry Pi doing nothing
Show her a picture of a cucumber...
No, the Pi Zero is 1 GHz single core. I think it might be able to handle the cat face Haar classifier, but just barely. I've got the Zero W (with wifi) and used Motion to turn it into a network camera- you can open an mjpeg stream as a VideoDevice in openCV just by passing in a URL. Right now I'm doing a standalone script, but I also use Home Assistant and they have support for openCV so I'm thinking I might use that if I go further.
You pack a lot into a short time always fun and interesting to watch. 👍
surveillance snake is watching
This is now the Matrix started!!
Oh, Marco. In addition to providing some very informative videos, you're the only person who manages to make me bark with laughter at least twice in every one of them. And I won't even mention the sexy "Terminator" voice... Oh, wait...
awesome work. the time lapse stuff is impressive - as is the heated platform...thank you!
With Marco Reps, I can learn something and watch comedy at the same time. Multitasking education.
How do you not have millions of subscribers?? Best channel on RUclips.
Very cool video. Pls don’t stop them coming
Great video. Pre ordered my Cetus MKII few weeks ago so whenever it arrives maybe I will get one of those cameras and set it up like you.
I noticed the time-lapse clip at the beginning ;)
me to :D
Marco Reps You need to make a shop tour video. I and I'm sure a lot of people would like to see all your equipment and the space is occupies.
I use an electric wok to vapour polish my parts. It works very well and has no open flames.
Really alot of good work in this one video... impressive and entertaining
Awesome timelapse concept! Thanks for sharing.
Love your videos. I was waiting for another about 3d printing, finally!!
If your getting good results with that build platform then more power to you! Expect curling edges on larger parts as you get close to the edge of the build platform and other problems due to how uneven it is, but if you don't print things that have those issues, then it's a solution that works well for you!
I haven't seen a resistor based heated bed for years. Nowadays, even most of the the traditional PCB based bed heaters are considered uneven. :)
Reflector button/switch on plate. Take photo when aligned.
You can also make a manual version with a button magnet and paperclip
I like when you were drilling your finger. Very nice.
I just took apart my cetus hotend and the heater cartrige is labled 24V 80W, so no problem there with the new power supply.
Oh that's valuable information, thank you!
Your humor is fantastic!
That's actually really nice!
I used your power resistor idea and it works great. Using a cheap RAMPS 1.4 board to control the power. Went cheap on the box though of 5mm thick wood planks:P You REALLY need the box if you want ABS, the warping is bad.
I like elp cams. Ordered a 1080p h.264 to connect to the trinocular port on my microscope. c to m12 adapter for like 6 bucks, 15 buck trinoc tube to c adapter and 45 buck camera beats the hell out of the $200+ most places want for an entry level scope cam. i have 2 of their 720p hardware h.264 units and have always been pleased with the price to quality ratio
Nice! I like the OpenCV work, I have just started looking at that library.
"Surveilance snake likes its freedom, as much as it likes taking it away" lol!
I'm liking your videos more and more
You are a very odd individual. That's probably why I enjoy your videos so much. I about spit my coffee out with the finger circle....
Nice video! put the part in the fridge or freezer before acetone smoothing
I love the foreshadowing XD
Smoooth. That's "smoooth". With three o.
My guess is that your room temperature was too low, so the acetone would evaporate very slowly.
Try the same process, but put the (very) closed jar on top of the heated bed, while it's heated at 50ºC.
A few minutes should do the trick :)
Most Caps run on 16V so if your running anything above that ie:24v they will blow up, thus causing the magic smoke you had!
I've never gotten vapor smoothing to work without some heating. The boiling point of acetone is ~50C so it doesn't take much. It only takes 30-60 minutes at most. Once you're happy with the result, let the part dry out for a while, it will have soaked in the acetone (which acts as a plasticizer so it might be temporarily flexible).
You don't need to boil the acetone. Even water evaporates without boiling, very slowly tho.
You can use cold acetone method (at about 25ºC for an hour+), or hot acetone method (at about 50ºC for a couple minutes). The first is easier to control, but slow, which is good for beginners on post-processing. The later is recommended for more experienced users, and need to be done with a lot of caution (acetone is highly inflamable).
:D your videos are so awesome. Ah, and thank you for the tip with skimage, wasn't arware of it at all.
Nice - I've also always wanted to build a temperature controlled enclosure, just with a simple temperature sensor and a fan to get the warm air out, if it gets too hot (the cold-end would not get sufficient cooling any more and the filament would start to flex).
Though I've always told myself that I'd build a better 3D printer one day with linear rails instead of rods and all and then also build a nice enclosure. Now been doing that for half a year and still haven't built any of those things :P
Yes, getting started is often difficult, but when it's fun the work is almost progressing automatically
ELP camera from China. I use those in my DIY pick and place machine vision system
Blew that old carbon comp resistor right in half, impressive
try PETG... excellent fillament material
Will do!
I love this channel
I like Ron's glare.
6:12 I have the same OCD problem with my Cetus3D 😎
very useful information
The cetus 3D printer is a great printer I've actually wanted one but near the end when you showed that camera setup it looked really awesome would you possibly make a video on setting that camera up and 3D printed parts.
love your video
You could have used something like a usb heating pad or a 12V 10-50W heating pad instead to make sure it's even spread. Or even a thermoelectric cooler as they would reach their own temp limit of 70.
Man, you're crazy! Had to subscribe!!
Just love your channel! Fkn great!!!!
Great video !
love your videos man but I have watched them many times already. can you do like a pod cast about anything. Ill be your first subscruber.
Try heated vapoursmoothing and you'll get a much better result :)
Otherwise, great video!
That's a beautiful view through the window and on the roof of another of your Cetus vids. Southern Germany perhaps?
Nice Timelapse, you could try to use a photo diode and a laser at the end of the printer to signal the snapshot
Zevs Richy
octoprint on a raspberry pi will control the printer through a browser interface and do timelapses with any usb camera, with the option for using changes in z height for the trigger.
Yeh, that seems like a great software and I'll try to use it one day, but the Cetus printers still have their proprietary controller that won't talk to Octoprint
well that's no fun. I'd be tempted to hook all of the mechanics up to an open controller like RAMPs or a smoothieboard.
If you want a really nice machine, and are up for it, I can definitely recommend building a hypercube evolution. I put one together with a 750w heated bed on a cast aluminum precision plate, with a print area of 400x400x500mm, running on a azteeg x5 gt. It's a very capable printer.
Phew 750W? You could use it for cooking when it's not being printed on :)
Great review!!!
Please review a large format delta printer capable of poly carbonate.
What I want to see is glass reinforced nylon printing. Probably nozzles would die after some time, but that structural strength! I also heard about ferrous filament.
Printed brushless inrunner motor project for example??? Maybe printed stepper motors? 3D printer printed on a 3D printer???!!! ;-)
My brand new extended cetus mk3 caught fire and they said i was the first. My question is why did they have thermal runaway off?
Ich Feier so sehr dein Kanal 😃
Kannst du bitte n Video über Präzision von led sla ducket machen wie zb Turbo Fan impeller und Festigkeit von uv resin machen?
Ich bin so unglaublich neidisch über dein Wissen und Fähigkeiten!
Und die geilen Sachen die du machst! 😃😂
OMG!
Mach weiter!
you should defenitely try the vapor smoothing again, that didnt look like it worked at all, some people warm the aceton a bit up, to get more vapor...
If that was after a few hours of vapor polishing - then that must not be pure ABS.
so true
The pro ABS is not soluble un acetone :/
Jetzt weiß ich woran mich Deine Stimme erinnert : Die Känguru Chroniken
Dip it into acetone. count to 1 s, take it out and let it dry for 20 mins without touching, will look like polished.
I love the file name of the software used for the time-lapse project at the end of the video...."prolapse.py".... LMAO.........This guy doesn't disappoint!
If the image comparison function does something like sum of square errors over the difference image, it would be sufficient to compare only the luma channel (Y) instead of all three channels (YUV or RGB). So, if there is an easy way to access the luma channels then you could save energy here.
Another implementation tries to simplify every frame before comparing it: lvelho.impa.br/ip15/demos/daniel-moura/hyperlapse.html But I wasn't sure if that would pay off at all. Do you think there's a chance I can get the Y channel directly from the camera?
I don't think you can read directly in other colorspaces, but this should be quite fast:
yuv=cv2.cvtColor(frame,cv2.COLOR_BGR2YUV)
y,u,v = cv2.split(yuv)
Marco Reps It depends on how the camera works. However, the H264 encoder will use YUV colorspace. So the color conversion is performed somewhere on the way to the video encoder. If you could just grab the Y channel from that hardware (before it reaches the encoder), you would get it "for free". Otherwise, it can still be faster to convert each RGB image into it's grayscale Y version. And then compare only Y images with eachother.
( .. unfortunatelly, i am not a Python expert .. for each pixel: Y = 0.299×Red + 0.587×Green + 0.114×Blue .. or similar numbers)
Marco Reps Now that i think about it, if you would use a black-and-white camera then every channel would be Y. But of course the video would be grayscale, too.
Hmm, maybe you could use a second camera that produces a small grayscale image. That would be easy to process and sufficient to decide which frame of the "main camera" wins.
Next step - using a hair dryer to bring the entire enclosure's air temperature to the heated bed's!
Beware though, Stratasys might sue you... ;)
I wanna see a robotic surveillance snake. Make it happen.
Yeah,
When you let out the smoke, it’s hard to get back in there.
The ABS pro is not afected by the acetone And Also has a Lot les warping
Marco Reps, great video, but with a heated build chamber, how does the electronics and motors deal with 60C/140F ambient temp? Control electronics can overheat at those temps.
@Marco Reps, are you still as happy with the Cetus printer? If it is accurate enough for a guy building 1 ppm voltmeters at home, it is good enough for me.
You have a Kaypro? Cool!
Coole Videos, hast ein Abo
Mit dem Vaporbath geht deutlich mehr, schau dir mal n paar Videos dazu an, man bekommt abs quasi Spiegelglatt wie Spritzguss. Wie immer ein cooles Video Daumen hoch :)
Ja, 2 Stunden waren wahrscheinlich nicht genug, hab ich mir im Nachhinein auch gedacht
Thanks for sharing :-)
5:50 "remember me"?
Looks very comfy. Do they sell the controller board separately?
You can also use Microsoft Hyperlapse Pro for this. (Hint the licence is free if you get it around this time) You simply record a video of your print and post process it with hyperlapse. You get a very smooth transition and a very watchable video, even using a delta printer. I have some examples on my channel. BTW< subbed. I love your work.
I've tried that a few times actually and it always looked horrible :\ Do you happen to remember the settings? Prepared the footage by speeding it up before or anything like that?
Marco Reps the main thing is that the algorithm for hyperlapse seems to like very good lighting and high res input video to accomplish this. It almost looks like the 3d print is growing.
prolapse.py
Hush, nobody noticed yet :|
Good morning Marco. Great video as usual. Quick question: have you looked at potential bed warpage issues with that aluminum plate now that its heated? Reason I ask is that when you demonstrated the overheating of the PLA, you could really see the aluminum distort.
Good point, should've annotated that: The plate I tested overheating with was cut from 1mm thick sheet metal scrap using dull sheet metal scissors so it was bent to begin with. The original Cetus build plate has that special coating that I didn't want to destroy. It is much thicker and flat. It doesn't flex at normal print bed temperatures
That's good. :-)
"not at all."
Well lets say that its not easily visible.
6:57 you got me
Thoughts on printing with PETG? I’ve read a lot recently saying how it’s easier to print than ABS, and stronger.
Did you print polycarbonate with default nozzle?
oh hey you have an s7 too
have you noticed occasional pops and ticks in the audio?
So what about polycarbonate printing? I'm curious about what you did
3:44 AHHHHHHHHHHH
i love the torso. nice body!