Bought this primer seater about 4 yrs ago. Absolutely love it one of the best reloading tools I own. The only thing I could see breaking is the plastic primer tray. And being able to adjust the seating depth is very helpful. Way better than the Hornady piece of crap I was constantly trying to get to work .
Hi mark, big fan of the whole primer reloading idea and you pushing the boundaries. I have a question/suggestion. Could the brass anvil be left out and instead a priming compound be used that is sensitive enough and strong enough after it "cures" to form a functioning anvilless primer. (No Berdan!) I know especially the sensitivity would be a tricky balance between reliable ignition and unwanted ignition (eg. on the reloading press). However if achieved it would be the holy grail of primer reloading since the whole anvil fiddling would be eliminated. Fast reloading by the thousands would seem possible this way. Would love to see a video of some experiments of anvilless primers. Be it success or failure. There is no information or videos out there yet. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Interesting point of view but we've tried it and it doesn't work. The pinch gap tween the nose of the anvil and cup must be .004 or so. If the big boys with their multi-million labs and research and development divisions haven't figured it out - I'm not going to try to out fox 'em. We are successfully making cups but it's at beginning stage(s). The cups take the brunt of the beating but the anvils usually survive and can be reused several times.
great video dude. i have a question: wich is better for a .22Lr rimfire primer compound, in terms of security, corrosiveness, quality, EPH 20 or lead styphnate. thanks
Eph 0 (eph 20 lil brother) is also in the manual for 22lr. I've never heard of a lead styphnate primer recipe being used for 22lr (I could be wrong). Eph 0 (and eph 20) dry to a concrete-like material . One of the main concerns with 22lr is getting the compound under the rim and once in place the compound has to stay in place (not crack or shatter) when the rim is subjected to a Hammerstein. H 48 works as well but is corrosive. Eph 0, 20 25 26 and Adrian's mod are all noncorrosive . As u know lead styphnate based primers are normally associated with centerfire primers such as cci, Remington (the big boys). These are noncorrosive of course. But if you've ever looked down a live 22LR round - you'll see a red waxy looking substance that appears to be spun using centrifugal force to get in up under the rim (again - I don't know) nor do I know the ingredients. Me? I'd use eph 0 and vibrate the compound under the rim. You can buy those cheapo jewelry sonic cleaners $6 $10 on ebay (not the $60+ "real sonic cleaners"). On mewe primer reloading a 3d printed tray is offered to hold the 22lrs upright while the jewelry cleaner vibrates the casings. Good question. Hope I helped at least some. Join us on mewe. The guys are amazing See my "hi there" (to follow) for an invitation
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Bought this primer seater about 4 yrs ago. Absolutely love it one of the best reloading tools I own. The only thing I could see breaking is the plastic primer tray. And being able to adjust the seating depth is very helpful. Way better than the Hornady piece of crap I was constantly trying to get to work .
rumble.com/vla242-homemade-primers-test-fire-eps-5.html
Marshall's lead styphnate based primer is amazing. It's Homemade!
Hi mark, big fan of the whole primer reloading idea and you pushing the boundaries.
I have a question/suggestion. Could the brass anvil be left out and instead a priming compound be used that is sensitive enough and strong enough after it "cures" to form a functioning anvilless primer. (No Berdan!) I know especially the sensitivity would be a tricky balance between reliable ignition and unwanted ignition (eg. on the reloading press). However if achieved it would be the holy grail of primer reloading since the whole anvil fiddling would be eliminated. Fast reloading by the thousands would seem possible this way.
Would love to see a video of some experiments of anvilless primers. Be it success or failure. There is no information or videos out there yet.
Thank you and keep up the good work.
Interesting point of view but we've tried it and it doesn't work. The pinch gap tween the nose of the anvil and cup must be .004 or so. If the big boys with their multi-million labs and research and development divisions haven't figured it out - I'm not going to try to out fox 'em.
We are successfully making cups but it's at beginning stage(s). The cups take the brunt of the beating but the anvils usually survive and can be reused several times.
great video dude. i have a question: wich is better for a .22Lr rimfire primer compound, in terms of security, corrosiveness, quality, EPH 20 or lead styphnate. thanks
Eph 0 (eph 20 lil brother) is also in the manual for 22lr.
I've never heard of a lead styphnate primer recipe being used for 22lr (I could be wrong). Eph 0 (and eph 20) dry to a concrete-like material . One of the main concerns with 22lr is getting the compound under the rim and once in place the compound has to stay in place (not crack or shatter) when the rim is subjected to a Hammerstein. H 48 works as well but is corrosive. Eph 0, 20 25 26 and Adrian's mod are all noncorrosive . As u know lead styphnate based primers are normally associated with centerfire primers such as cci, Remington (the big boys). These are noncorrosive of course.
But if you've ever looked down a live 22LR round - you'll see a red waxy looking substance that appears to be spun using centrifugal force to get in up under the rim (again - I don't know) nor do I know the ingredients.
Me? I'd use eph 0 and vibrate the compound under the rim. You can buy those cheapo jewelry sonic cleaners $6 $10 on ebay (not the $60+ "real sonic cleaners"). On mewe primer reloading a 3d printed tray is offered to hold the 22lrs upright while the jewelry cleaner vibrates the casings.
Good question.
Hope I helped at least some.
Join us on mewe. The guys are amazing
See my "hi there" (to follow) for an invitation
www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/1971656c-edde-5bb3-d012-31fb6f4b5cc0/ab0I3zUdoH70CGPp_f_G6XYnQsoUNn5hsJto95GEl8-UyVkEiz0vVKz2kA
Hi how can i contact you? Possibly an email adress?
HelpMeNowMark@gmail.com