i am certified mechanic and you guys all do a common mistake when changing the rotors. You have to always clean the hub very well before installing a new rotor! Why? I will tell you now: The hub was all dirty and rusty and that makes the new rotor sits crooked on the hub and further may cause a slight vibration during spinning. Always clean the area on the hub where the rotor sits.
When I did this, I didn't have to remove the caliper bracket. I just slid the rotor out from the side of it. Probably easier overall removing the bracket but it's pretty simple to just slide it out with the bracket in place.
The job can be done by removing the 21mm bolts only, it just makes it more difficult to install the pads. at 2:15 in the video you can see the larger bolts, those are what hold the entire caliper/bracket assembly to the steering knuckle.
If I remember correctly (This video was made more than 2 years ago :) ) the place where he had the brakes checked out measured the rotors and yes, they were too thin to turn down. These Audi's and other german cars have soft metal rotors that wear out fairly fast, it's common to replace rotors whenever doing brake pads on these cars.
Great video would be nice if you gave us the torque specs on the calliper brackets and pins when installing Im surprised you didn't put grease on the slider pins or spray brake cleaner on the rotors to clean off the protective coating on them
I have a 2005 A6 4.2 Quattro. Cant get the caliper off the rotor. Cant compress the piston so do I take the bracket off first? Seems the video skipped past the bracket part straight to the T40 bolt removal.
If your rotors have a large lip on them, the old pads might be getting stuck on the rotor? You may need to use a screwdriver or small pry bar to force the pads in a little bit before they will slide off the rotor.
@shermanr6 Good Point, but technically you should never have to add brake fluid to the car, they engineer the car so that when the pads get thin enough, the brake fluid level drops to a certain point and and the brake fluid level sensor will detect the fluid low, and trigger the "Brake" light on the dash, thus indicating your pads are low. the only time the car will ever lose brake fluid, is if there is a serious problem and you actually have a brake fluid leak somewhere.
get the next size up TX bit and smash it on with a mallet so it it stuck in there. Use a good quality bit, you dont want it breaking in there!. Spray lots of penetrating oil like GT85 or Plusgas where the bolt meets the caliper bracket. Then after a few seconds, use a breaker bar to try and crack the bolt open. Make sure you are undoing it the right way, its easy to be mistaken if you are doing it looking at the caliper with the nut behind the caliper!
You do not need to worry about the parking brake system when working on the front brakes, the parking brake (hand-brake) only applies pressure to the rear brakes.
@orocovis1000 The light should not be coming on if you still have that much brake pad life remaining. If something is wrong with the brake fluid sensor, that could cause the brake warning light to flickr, or if the level is right at the edge of the "low" line.
thanks a lot for the video. My 08 a6 just hit 67k and i am getting concerned what typically happens with these cars once they get up in the mileage. where are you located and do u specialize on Audi's? I believe it may be time for some new rotors and pads. I would like to ask u a question as well if you could send me a message. thanks brian.
I have a 2002 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 Quatro with 340,000 miles on it. that's why I'm trying to learn how to fix it myself. Thanks for the video. Does this apply to my car? Also, the Tie Rods inner and outer and sleeve?
2000 A6 Quattro 4.2 dual piston caliper. 7 mm allen bolt is completely rounded all four (left and right) are exactly the same. I tried 7 mm and a T-45. Then I had 3 other guys look and there is absolutely no tooling or any evidence of it. Is it possible that I have to remove the 21 mm bolts instead? The slider "bolts" are a dead end so I have to find another way to replace the rotors. There is also a couple of torx bolts holding the outside caliper. They are bigger than a T-50. Please help!
Just replaced my rear brakes needed bad. Have about 50% life span on front brakes. Pad warning light keeps coming on and off. Mechanic can't get the warning light to stay off. Do you think that the light would come on when there is still 50% life left on front pads? Thanks .
+Auto Parts Direct To You so I got the two caliper bolts off and the caliper would not come off. It could be because mine is a 2007. If you have any advice please let me know.
+Robbie Starkey The missing video clip here is a common procedure for removing any brake caliper. As the brake pads and rotor wear together, they begin to make grooves and form a lip from the friction contact. To overcome the wear pattern you will have to push back the caliper piston slightly. You can do this by inserting a flat head screwdriver between the brake pad and rotor, thru the caliper opening. Prying them apart just a few millimeters to overcome the wear pattern to remove the caliper.
question. i have a 2006 a6 quattro. C6 3.2L tyvm for this video so now i can do this . but theres 2 diff rotor sizes it seems for my car . do you know which size my model is??
when i changed my exhaust i was wondering if i could spray paint those as well , i jus made my rims gold nd i want them to match.. plus mom got the new volvo #NoFlexin
+Cameron White You can paint almost anything if you have the right paint, equipment and know how. Painting exhaust is not something i have seen much and the heat will have something to say about it.
do the pads have to come from an audi dealer or can I get after market ones for my 06 audi a6 3.2. and also will the light turn off automatically when I replace the pads?
+Yvensky Lebrun as long as you have the part number, you can buy them on your own, the light will go off if you put the matching part with the brake sensor (brake pad with cable). DO NOT use any type of lubricant on friction surface.
At this time we do not have a video on the rear brakes of this vehicle. As far as I know, the only thing different on some rear disc brakes is compressing the caliper piston. Sometimes a specialty tool is required to compress the piston. Also a diagnostic scan tool is specified in the vw/audi repair manual.
Auto Parts Direct To You Ok, so i changed the pads BUT, when i was finishing screwing the allens on the caliper on the left side of the car, the caliper is still moving a little bit.. I screwed it pretty hard but the caliper is still like moving.. Is this normal? Thank you
Tomislav Zvonimir Yes the caliper should float as it must be able to move to slide and grab the rotor when the brake pedal is depressed and then release when the pedal is released.
Auto Parts Direct To You has them, but they can only loo them up by VIN, call 1-866-770-2771 with the VIN and they can get the prices for you. These are not returnable as they are dealer parts, so make sure you know what you need for sure before ordering.
i own a audi a6 Quattro 1999 i need brakes and rotors i was wondering when buying the brake pads does it need to comes with a sensor? or no please help
Would you recommend going to a auto shop so they can do this or a dealership? I was planning on just going to auto zone telling them my make and model and getting my rotors and brakes that way like buying my own parts and having them put in
We have not had a chance to get into the rear brakes on one of these cars yet but the VW/Audi service manual does call for diagnostic equipment for the rear parking brake (electromechanical Parking Brake). If you get into it and find out, please update this thread so we all know.
Auto Parts Direct To You You need to disable the EPB or you will damage it. Like the jackass who changed the rear brakes on my fathers A6. It now has a terrible screech to it when you dis/engage the parking brake.
+Arad Dehestany It is good practice, keeping the braking contact surfaces clean of oils and dirt/debris will insure that the braking system will preform at peak performance.
You not cleaning nothing ! Not using any lube even glue like loctite job done ok but without cleaning and there is ate system if i am correct so u should use ate lube or something similar plus u shouldnt pres cylinder that way use proper tool and check dust cover and clean it snd lube it with ate ruber dot safe lubricant
The video is GREAT!!!Thank you very much:) Could you give me some advise?I'm having big headache with front left brake-whar is ist?Is it safe to drive with this issue?Do you think I could fix it myself?Sorry to bother you but I've checked lots of forum and still no clue...Many thanks!! ruclips.net/video/jOKiPiQ3biU/видео.html
Hey maybe next time you could include the part where you remove the caliper
was thinking the same thing
i am certified mechanic and you guys all do a common mistake when changing the rotors. You have to always clean the hub very well before installing a new rotor! Why? I will tell you now: The hub was all dirty and rusty and that makes the new rotor sits crooked on the hub and further may cause a slight vibration during spinning. Always clean the area on the hub where the rotor sits.
What’s your shop lol I just bought a new a6 and don’t want anyone messing my baby up I’m located in mass if anyone knows any good mechanics
@@karrupt487 I am
When I did this, I didn't have to remove the caliper bracket. I just slid the rotor out from the side of it. Probably easier overall removing the bracket but it's pretty simple to just slide it out with the bracket in place.
Hate to nit pick here but should you re grease those caliper pins?
yes! This is a hack job..
The job can be done by removing the 21mm bolts only, it just makes it more difficult to install the pads. at 2:15 in the video you can see the larger bolts, those are what hold the entire caliper/bracket assembly to the steering knuckle.
If I remember correctly (This video was made more than 2 years ago :) ) the place where he had the brakes checked out measured the rotors and yes, they were too thin to turn down. These Audi's and other german cars have soft metal rotors that wear out fairly fast, it's common to replace rotors whenever doing brake pads on these cars.
Great video would be nice if you gave us the torque specs on the calliper brackets and pins when installing Im surprised you didn't put grease on the slider pins or spray brake cleaner on the rotors to clean off the protective coating on them
Nothing cleaned, nothing lubed. Yikes.
I have a 2005 A6 4.2 Quattro. Cant get the caliper off the rotor. Cant compress the piston so do I take the bracket off first? Seems the video skipped past the bracket part straight to the T40 bolt removal.
It helps a lot to put anti seizure lub on the rotor seat.
If your rotors have a large lip on them, the old pads might be getting stuck on the rotor? You may need to use a screwdriver or small pry bar to force the pads in a little bit before they will slide off the rotor.
@shermanr6 Good Point, but technically you should never have to add brake fluid to the car, they engineer the car so that when the pads get thin enough, the brake fluid level drops to a certain point and and the brake fluid level sensor will detect the fluid low, and trigger the "Brake" light on the dash, thus indicating your pads are low. the only time the car will ever lose brake fluid, is if there is a serious problem and you actually have a brake fluid leak somewhere.
get the next size up TX bit and smash it on with a mallet so it it stuck in there. Use a good quality bit, you dont want it breaking in there!. Spray lots of penetrating oil like GT85 or Plusgas where the bolt meets the caliper bracket.
Then after a few seconds, use a breaker bar to try and crack the bolt open. Make sure you are undoing it the right way, its easy to be mistaken if you are doing it looking at the caliper with the nut behind the caliper!
Lube the pins and the pad sliding areas!
You do not need to worry about the parking brake system when working on the front brakes, the parking brake (hand-brake) only applies pressure to the rear brakes.
Yes, we only did the fronts in this video.
I have a 2008 Audi a6
I’m gonna try thiyself. Anything else I should watch out for?
@orocovis1000 The light should not be coming on if you still have that much brake pad life remaining. If something is wrong with the brake fluid sensor, that could cause the brake warning light to flickr, or if the level is right at the edge of the "low" line.
thanks a lot for the video. My 08 a6 just hit 67k and i am getting concerned what typically happens with these cars once they get up in the mileage. where are you located and do u specialize on Audi's? I believe it may be time for some new rotors and pads. I would like to ask u a question as well if you could send me a message. thanks
brian.
Very good, however, the step showing the removal of the caliper bracket is missing. I assume the bolts for this are obvious.
Always grease caliper pins with brake silicone grease.
Just ordered a new spindle from used car parts need to change the rotor but the t-30 rotor bolt is stripped. Any suggestions?
I have a 2002 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 Quatro with 340,000 miles on it. that's why I'm trying to learn how to fix it myself. Thanks for the video. Does this apply to my car? Also, the Tie Rods inner and outer and sleeve?
@kolio1977 The rear brakes were actually okay on this car, unfortunately it may be a while until we are able to make a video on it.
Thanks for the video. Only one that was clear to understand and see clearly. Thamks
Roger Francis awesome thanks for watching!!
2000 A6 Quattro 4.2 dual piston caliper. 7 mm allen bolt is completely rounded all four (left and right) are exactly the same. I tried 7 mm and a T-45. Then I had 3 other guys look and there is absolutely no tooling or any evidence of it. Is it possible that I have to remove the 21 mm bolts instead? The slider "bolts" are a dead end so I have to find another way to replace the rotors. There is also a couple of torx bolts holding the outside caliper. They are bigger than a T-50. Please help!
It should be compressed from when you took the caliper off..? Bro what are you saying
Auto parts direct to you.
What about the bleeding process? Don’t you need to do that as well ? Thanks
Just replaced my rear brakes needed bad. Have about 50% life span on front brakes. Pad warning light keeps coming on and off. Mechanic can't get the warning light to stay off. Do you think that the light would come on when there is still 50% life left on front pads? Thanks .
but then how would you clean up the caliper bracket and grease the slider bolts?
Gee, when I did this job the caliper didn't magically remove itself after the pins were removed. Huh...
I just tried doing this and after the caliper magically removing itself I got lost. had to give up cause I'm no mechanic.
+Robbie Starkey After removing the allen bolts the calliper will slide, physically off. You can see the reverse of this at 6:44. No magic required.
+Auto Parts Direct To You so I got the two caliper bolts off and the caliper would not come off. It could be because mine is a 2007. If you have any advice please let me know.
+Robbie Starkey The missing video clip here is a common procedure for removing any brake caliper. As the brake pads and rotor wear together, they begin to make grooves and form a lip from the friction contact. To overcome the wear pattern you will have to push back the caliper piston slightly. You can do this by inserting a flat head screwdriver between the brake pad and rotor, thru the caliper opening. Prying them apart just a few millimeters to overcome the wear pattern to remove the caliper.
+Auto Parts Direct To You I just did what you said and it worked. Thanks for the advice!
Nice video ! I need to know how to remove headlites and tailites to change bulbs on that very same car thanks a bunch
Hi , the tiny bolt that holds the disc in place, whats the measure of it? Dont have it mine thanks
question. i have a 2006 a6 quattro. C6 3.2L
tyvm for this video so now i can do this . but theres 2 diff rotor sizes it seems for my car . do you know which size my model is??
I got as far as getting the two 7mm pins out but I can't get the caliper off the bracket. What am I doing wrong? Help!!!
Sorry posted on wrong clip, this guy does know what he is doing, sorry chap
I've been using the vise grip pliers to push the piston for about 30 years. My boss called me the visegrip kid...
If you have the same style calipers, then everything else should be the same, Thanks!
Is this something you can do yourself? What about the electronic handbrake system? You never showed how you released it?
Thank you so much, APDTY!
Uhm, what happened to the caliper? You didn't show how you removed it. Mine is totally stuck.
not a drop of brake grease used?
when i changed my exhaust i was wondering if i could spray paint those as well , i jus made my rims gold nd i want them to match.. plus mom got the new volvo #NoFlexin
+Cameron White You can paint almost anything if you have the right paint, equipment and know how. Painting exhaust is not something i have seen much and the heat will have something to say about it.
No, problem. Thanks for the follow up comment! Removed the old comment.
What size is that rotor?
great nice vid shows everything you do now does this work for audi a4 2007 b7 model? i have the same caliper as the one in the vid thanks =]
Hi! nice video so there are 2 x 7mm allen caliper bolts and 2 x 21mm regular hex bolts. do you happen to know the torque that they come with? thanks!
Hi, my eBahn manual says to use 190Nm of torque for the front brake carrier, and 30Nm for the caliper pins
do the pads have to come from an audi dealer or can I get after market ones for my 06 audi a6 3.2. and also will the light turn off automatically when I replace the pads?
+Yvensky Lebrun as long as you have the part number, you can buy them on your own, the light will go off if you put the matching part with the brake sensor (brake pad with cable). DO NOT use any type of lubricant on friction surface.
EPB brake caliper use???
the EPB is only attached to the rear calipers, I just did the rear brakes on my 2010 A6.
Do you have a video for the rear brakes? And are there any difficulties with replacing the rear rotors?
At this time we do not have a video on the rear brakes of this vehicle. As far as I know, the only thing different on some rear disc brakes is compressing the caliper piston. Sometimes a specialty tool is required to compress the piston. Also a diagnostic scan tool is specified in the vw/audi repair manual.
J
Knightmare Yeah the rear caliper is electronically controlled I believe.
WOW Can't wait to do my too
so this is only for fron calipers?
So basically if i want to change the pads all i have to do is unscrew those 2 allens..?
Take the bolts out, remove the clip, remove the caliper, compress the pistons, install pads, and reverse.
Auto Parts Direct To You Ok, so i changed the pads BUT, when i was finishing screwing the allens on the caliper on the left side of the car, the caliper is still moving a little bit.. I screwed it pretty hard but the caliper is still like moving.. Is this normal? Thank you
Tomislav Zvonimir Yes the caliper should float as it must be able to move to slide and grab the rotor when the brake pedal is depressed and then release when the pedal is released.
Great Video would love to learn and see more to further my A6 projects!!
You also forgot to mention the bedding process after installing the new pads, otherwise great DIY video!
If calipers aren't removed you don't "need" to bleed brakes, unless fluid is black
where did you lift and support the car? please answer.
+jimmy mangat You can find this info in your owners manual, searching 'how to change a tire' will outlining the jack mounting points
The sliders should be greeted with copper slip .
Great Video really helpful thank you
Trevor Curran thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!
I am sorry, I just saw the link. thank you and have a good day. =)
May I ask where did you get the genuine Audi brake discs?
Auto Parts Direct To You has them, but they can only loo them up by VIN, call 1-866-770-2771 with the VIN and they can get the prices for you. These are not returnable as they are dealer parts, so make sure you know what you need for sure before ordering.
Just a thank you for the video. God bless you all Barry Klempel @family
i own a audi a6 Quattro 1999 i need brakes and rotors i was wondering when buying the brake pads does it need to comes with a sensor? or no please help
+jakina brown Your vehicle came both ways, with and without sensor. I would remove yours, so you can match it up when purchasing new ones
Would you recommend going to a auto shop so they can do this or a dealership? I was planning on just going to auto zone telling them my make and model and getting my rotors and brakes that way like buying my own parts and having them put in
do i need the vagcom to change the front pads, or is that just the rear?
We have not had a chance to get into the rear brakes on one of these cars yet but the VW/Audi service manual does call for diagnostic equipment for the rear parking brake (electromechanical Parking Brake). If you get into it and find out, please update this thread so we all know.
Auto Parts Direct To You You need to disable the EPB or you will damage it. Like the jackass who changed the rear brakes on my fathers A6. It now has a terrible screech to it when you dis/engage the parking brake.
thanx for the video. I´m trying to do that tomorrow. :)
why not to touch the friction surface?
+Arad Dehestany It is good practice, keeping the braking contact surfaces clean of oils and dirt/debris will insure that the braking system will preform at peak performance.
You not cleaning nothing ! Not using any lube even glue like loctite job done ok but without cleaning and there is ate system if i am correct so u should use ate lube or something similar plus u shouldnt pres cylinder that way use proper tool and check dust cover and clean it snd lube it with ate ruber dot safe lubricant
Great video.
Nice vid! I couldn't find u on facebook
take bolts out of caliper don't show that you have to wedge the caliper open so you can pull it off
What do YOU "Wedge the caliper" with? Screw driver, wood, ???
Rubber mallet would have been preferred
Super - danke
Thank you beautiful human 😊
@shermanr6 Touché! Very valid point :)
I would love to be a German Technician, im already a GM Technician
Thx
cool
Dude! The skip between support untightening and removal is worth not watching further.
Hopefully you get the second brake job on this car so you get to mess with everything seized up from no lube
@jddinehart You can get there directly by going to facebook. com\apdty
The video is GREAT!!!Thank you very much:)
Could you give me some advise?I'm having big headache with front left brake-whar is ist?Is it safe to drive with this issue?Do you think I could fix it myself?Sorry to bother you but I've checked lots of forum and still no clue...Many thanks!!
ruclips.net/video/jOKiPiQ3biU/видео.html
Wear gloves when u do this people
clean the hub !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! shit, not a job !!
This guy is a joke