This was an interesting video as a mechanic who occasionally works on equipment that uses veins the wall of the cylinder is just as important as the veins. It only takes a few scratches to loose performance.
When you took the little front cover off exposing the shaft end was there a little peace that slots into the end of the shaft, about 3/16 square by 5/8 or 4mm x 15mm
@@Philat4800feet I didn't remember seeing it so opened it up again, it was there, thanks. std pump just trying to find why machine isn't registering pressure, I purchased a gauge like yours and it came up 29 in/hg so that looks good, that's about 360mtorr I think.
Where does the pump oil enter the vane chamber if it does. Attached to the motor, I cannot find any opening. In your video a could not see if it was on the back side. Great video!
Excellent and informative video! Just one question. What type of thread sealant do use on the hose fitting on top of the pump? It took some serious force to get it out, so just wondering what was on it originally.
Excellent video, you answered many questions that I had, well done and very professional. Have you measured the volume of oil by chance to fill/get it close? Also do you or anyone know a source for parts for those pumps should those veins wear/gaskets tear?
Thanks for the video, I originally had the JB until it blew the main seal and cooked the pump so i purchased this one from HR and it lasted 6 cycles and would no longer hold the vacuum after testing and sending them the results they sent me a new pump which only lasted 4 cycles so they sent me a third which lasted 2 cycles lol, so have 3 pumps that wont hold a vacuum, all 3 are the same they get down to under 500torr then go up to about 700 torr before heading back down again but the second time they don't go low enough and after a while the pump just gives up and loses pretty much all pressure, all 3 still look brand new and have no idea why they would go low enough to start with but then give up after that, they thought at first it may be an overheating issue. now I have nothing.
There isn't any calibration that I'm aware of. The only specification a pump would need to meet is CFM and potential Torr at sea level. In a rotary pump, wear on the vanes would lead to a diminishing vacuum strength.
Hi Phil, have you been able to locate parts? We have just run into this issue and ended up buying two new pump from HR. They said they use to sell a kit to repair the pumps, but they don't anymore. We are looking to repair our two pumps we have and see if we can keep them in a rotation instead of just chucking them.
Thinking about getting the Navac NP7DP as a replacement. You think that would be sufficient for a medium FD? Thanks for all your videos. Learning a lot in this new industry.
@@bigrndahouse That really sucks. A micron is basically the same as a Mtorr. high CFM is also a good rating for a pump. I would make sure your stats are equal to, or better, than Harvest Right. What about Db levels?
@@Philat4800feet but since we never go down to 15mTorr would it even matter? That one has 7cfm but no data on Db levels. I was told that it was a little louder but not that much in comparison.
@@bigrndahouse Checked the specs and it looks fine, will have to change the fitting to fit your hose, ill be checking my supplier if they can do that with the same check valve fitting.
thx for the video, I'm currently trying to diagnose mine and can't find the problem, when u diagnosed the drain valve was it passing the water test and the Windex spray test? i ran both tests and it passed, but looking at the ball it is slightly rusted so plan to change it anyways.
@@Philat4800feet Phil, thanks for getting back. After taking the outer housing off, I then took apart the components to see if the interior of the pump was dirty also (i recognize it was not needed now). I opened up the inner first and second stage chambers, as you did in the video and cleaned everything out, then put it back together. I am now uncertain how to refill the oil that was within the inner chambers (as i initially opened it, clean oil came out from the interior, oil that looked to have been within the stages and was clean compared to the previously drained oil, leading me to believe it might have to be filled separately from the main oil). It seems like there is 2 systems of oil in the pump. Do you know, if i simply refill the main reservoir, will the interior components receive the oil they need? they seem to be sealed off from each other. There was probably 1/2 cups of oil within the chambers that was released after taking the stages apart. Does this make sense? thank you again for any help!
@@Philat4800feet this might be easier to explain this way... when you put the pump back together and fill the chamber normally, does the oil naturally go back into the 2 stage chambers, or does that oil need to be refilled prior to putting the pump back together?
So I took mine apart, surprised how much rust I had. I’ve only had my unit 4 months. Cant get it down to 500mt. Oil is cloudy and dirty. I’ve replaced it three times now. Don’t know how to clean the dimister. Any ideas
There are three possibilities: pump problem, freeze drier leak, and other. I had the same issue. I went to a nearby hydraulic hose store and had them get me a vacuum gauge, #12 male JIC fitting and adapters (about $14.00). This device I placed on the hose leading to the vacuum pump. I started the pump and it jumped to 23" of hg. This ruled out the hose and pump. Somewhere on the FD was a leak. Start with the door gasket, use soapy water at really low vacuum, since high vacuum will vaporize the soapy water Run the pump for 2-3 minutes. Check the drain valve to see if it sucks up water when closed. Check all other joints and connections inside and under the chamber. Look through the door for bubbles entering the chamber. The last issue is this- Is your pressure reading, on the screen, giving you a false reading? The pressure sensor is under the second heating pad from the top. Check the wire harness and connection. Right now I'm putting a tee on my vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. This will let me know if my in/hg corresponds with my Mtorr read out. Video coming soon. Good luck. Let me know what happens.
Phil help pls my pump is sucking in air from the switch that has the open , closed on top of the pump opposite side from the fitting for the hose. Is that normal? I cannot get enough mtorrs to do a proper freeze dry. I have the premium green pump from harvest right. Any help would be greatly appreciated I just spent 9hrs prepping for my next 3 runs and I alway like to do a function test before doing my run. When I stick my finger on the hole where the Allen screw goes that holds the switch I can feel it sucking air and if I turn the switch a little bit I can here the air suction stop but I'm still not getting enough m torrs. What are your thoughts?
Sorry, but I'm unfamiliar with that pump, However, All fittings need to be sealed with Teflon tape or other sealer. Check out the link below: navacglobal.com/product/smart-vacuum-pump-np12dm/ I have search for information on who makes the Premium Pump. This pump is really close. You might want to call NAVAC (877.MY.NAVAC) and see if they can help you. If not get back to me.
Hi Phil. thank you . do you know how to take the oil mister off, this standard pump? harvest right teck told me to just unscrew it. TO the right??? I have tried and tried, both right and left. it turns about 1" both ways. there is small wholes on the sides of the bottom ring. thought it might be a pin. but nothing. Is there a way to clean the filter with out taking it off. I forgot to close the drain valve, for 4 hours, on a load. then when I checked it, I closed it , everything seemed to be ok, no err signs , but checked the food after 24 hours, that's when I noticed the unit was not drying anything. wooops. fried oil smell. I only had 31 loads on the pump. Maybe I should have put food back in freezer, and defrosted it, very costly mistake for sure. I have back flushed, and cleaned out the front chamber. when I tested it, again. it pulled a 498 mt. but then climbed back up. and never again pulled a 500. bottoms out a around 1400 mts. before I tear it all apart again, to check the veins and reeds, I won't to check the oil mister. also, would you know where to find parts if i need some? thank you
I made the mistake years ago trying to remove the muffler. I wouldn’t do it. It took a long time to remove the water from within. I remember there’s a set pin towards the base. If you can’t pull a vacuum you need to test for a vacuum. Do you have a Hydraulic hose shop near you? Remove the hose and take it in. You should have a #12 JIC fitting. Have them set you up with a male #12 JIC, adapter, Teflon tape, and vacuum gauge. Should be around $15-20. This will allow you to test the hose and pump. If you can pull 20 in/hg or better your hose and pump should be fine. The next step would be testing for leaks in and around the chamber. I made a video called “Why is my Harvest Right Freeze Drier Leaking Vacuum?” it may be helpful.
@@Philat4800feet thank you so much for replying, I will make a test gauge like you mention. thanks again. ps, I wrote you a long reply, and lost it, haha 2 times, so I kept this one short. you lucked out.
@@eviebays I would run vac pump with fresh oil for 20 min then change the oil again to fresh oil. I work in large scale refrigeration systems and work the crap out of my HVAC vacuum pumps (they are almost identical) pulling vacuum on large chillers. I can run the pump for 12 hrs and pull something the size of a large SUV down to 500 microns (same as MTor I believe) pulling a vacuum on large equipment like that is almost like running freeze dryer with drain valve open for hrs. A change of oil later and my vacuum will pull down to 28 microns hooked up only to a micron meter.
How are you converting in/Hg to mTorr? I am able to pull 26 in/Hg on my pump, but using online converting calculators I come up with 26 in/Hg equaling 660,400 mTorr or 660.4 Torr. The conversion does not seem to correspond with the readings I get on the Harvest Right display.
A perfect vacuum with in/hg (English system) is 29.92 in/hg A perfect vacuum in Mtorr or Micron (Metric) is 0 (zero) in/hg starts out at 0 and goes to 29.92 Mtorr and Microns start at 760,000 and go to 0 (zero) Both vacuums are perfect at sea level at the proper temperature. One goes up (in/hg) and one goes down (Mtorr and Microns). Vacuum pump manufactures often state what the pump will produce at sea level. This amount needs to be adjusted for your altitude. If your pump can't meet the factory specs at the adjusted altitude. the vanes are probably worn.
@@Philat4800feet Interesting... So how many in/Hg does my pump need to pull in order to achieve 500 mTorr in the freeze dryer? The online conversion calculators don't seem to give me an answer that makes sense.
1 torr = 0.999 "/hg. & 1 millitorrr is 0.001 torr. Mtorr is not a pressure measurement you will usually see in industry since it is such a tiny measurement of atmospheric pressure that it is normally only utilized in research & theoretical work. normally people in the AC/R industry deal in torr or in/hg. You are having a hard time converting because Phil had his decimal point off by 3 places. On the screen he stated that a pressure of 584 mtorr is equal to 23 inches/hg. I believe what he meant to say is that 584 torr = 23 in/hg, because if you actually convert 584 millitorr, it equals 0.02299 inches of vacuum. If you correct the decimal point error, you get 22.99 or 23 in/hg.
ive been having issues with rust as well, problem is i have to drain the oil every couple batches and pour the rust/water/oil out as its contaminating my oil. the pump works fine but i dont want this rust screwing up my pump? anyone else have these issues?
Which pump do you have? I still have my little standard pump. It runs great. I raise the rear of the pump up with a block of wood, empty the oil after every batch, and leave the drain valve open until the next batch. Water is a problem with vacuum pumps. Water leads to rust.
@@Philat4800feet yes i have the standard pump as well, its got to the point where rust particles can be seen in the sight glass and it leaves residue and particles in the filter when i empty it out. i guess i will have to call a tech from harvest right as i cant imagine the oil being good for the pump
That is the standard pump not the premium/premier pump. But still good info for people like me to see. thanks for posting.
That is what I was about to say.
This was an interesting video as a mechanic who occasionally works on equipment that uses veins the wall of the cylinder is just as important as the veins. It only takes a few scratches to loose performance.
You're correct.
When you took the little front cover off exposing the shaft end was there a little peace that slots into the end of the shaft, about 3/16 square by 5/8 or 4mm x 15mm
I really can't remember. Do you have the standard or perimium pump? Do you have an issue?
@@Philat4800feet I didn't remember seeing it so opened it up again, it was there, thanks. std pump just trying to find why machine isn't registering pressure, I purchased a gauge like yours and it came up 29 in/hg so that looks good, that's about 360mtorr I think.
Where does the pump oil enter the vane chamber if it does. Attached to the motor, I cannot find any opening. In your video a could not see if it was on the back side. Great video!
I can't remember either, but I'm sure there is a pathway.
Excellent and informative video! Just one question. What type of thread sealant do use on the hose fitting on top of the pump? It took some serious force to get it out, so just wondering what was on it originally.
I use teflon tape. I'm sure the OEM was some kind of thread locker.
@@Philat4800feet thanks Phil!
I figured it was be the drain valve. But hey at least you cleaned up your pump!
Excellent video, you answered many questions that I had, well done and very professional. Have you measured the volume of oil by chance to fill/get it close? Also do you or anyone know a source for parts for those pumps should those veins wear/gaskets tear?
I have searched for parts but haven't found a source. Harvest Right hasn't been helpful.
Thanks for the video, I originally had the JB until it blew the main seal and cooked the pump so i purchased this one from HR and it lasted 6 cycles and would no longer hold the vacuum after testing and sending them the results they sent me a new pump which only lasted 4 cycles so they sent me a third which lasted 2 cycles lol, so have 3 pumps that wont hold a vacuum, all 3 are the same they get down to under 500torr then go up to about 700 torr before heading back down again but the second time they don't go low enough and after a while the pump just gives up and loses pretty much all pressure, all 3 still look brand new and have no idea why they would go low enough to start with but then give up after that, they thought at first it may be an overheating issue. now I have nothing.
Looks like the odds were not in your favor.
The check valve is just inside the pump's inlet, Normally a ball and spring
I want to switch mine out before that happens. Let us know what valve you replace it with
Standard 3/8 FPT ball valve
do you know where to get replacement seals for these pumps ?
On the standard pump, no. However, if you take the seal or bearing to Applied or Kaman they may be able to match something up.
ARE THESE VACUUM PUMPS CALIBRATED IN ANYWAY OTHER THAN HOW THE MANUFACTURER BUILDS THEM? I trust your opinion
There isn't any calibration that I'm aware of. The only specification a pump would need to meet is CFM and potential Torr at sea level. In a rotary pump, wear on the vanes would lead to a diminishing vacuum strength.
Do you know what size is the gasket or where I can get a replacement?
Parts for the older pump are hard to track down. You might need to call HR
Do you leave the air ballast open or closed on yours.
When I'm around to do it, I have my air valve open to remove as much air as possible , and then close it around 2000-3000 microns.
Hi Phil, have you been able to locate parts? We have just run into this issue and ended up buying two new pump from HR. They said they use to sell a kit to repair the pumps, but they don't anymore. We are looking to repair our two pumps we have and see if we can keep them in a rotation instead of just chucking them.
I've done the same. HR doesn't want to be in the parts business. Not everyone has the skills to rebuild a pump.
Thinking about getting the Navac NP7DP as a replacement. You think that would be sufficient for a medium FD? Thanks for all your videos. Learning a lot in this new industry.
Some after market vacuum pumps don't have a check valve. Check the spec on how many microns (Mtorrs) the pump can draw down.
@@Philat4800feet it says 15 microns.
@@bigrndahouse That really sucks. A micron is basically the same as a Mtorr. high CFM is also a good rating for a pump. I would make sure your stats are equal to, or better, than Harvest Right. What about Db levels?
@@Philat4800feet but since we never go down to 15mTorr would it even matter? That one has 7cfm but no data on Db levels. I was told that it was a little louder but not that much in comparison.
@@bigrndahouse Checked the specs and it looks fine, will have to change the fitting to fit your hose, ill be checking my supplier if they can do that with the same check valve fitting.
thx for the video, I'm currently trying to diagnose mine and can't find the problem, when u diagnosed the drain valve was it passing the water test and the Windex spray test? i ran both tests and it passed, but looking at the ball it is slightly rusted so plan to change it anyways.
My ball valve was rusty and sucking up liquid.
Hi Phil, could you describe how you refilled the inner chambers of the pump?
Refilled? Please elaborate.
@@Philat4800feet Phil, thanks for getting back. After taking the outer housing off, I then took apart the components to see if the interior of the pump was dirty also (i recognize it was not needed now). I opened up the inner first and second stage chambers, as you did in the video and cleaned everything out, then put it back together. I am now uncertain how to refill the oil that was within the inner chambers (as i initially opened it, clean oil came out from the interior, oil that looked to have been within the stages and was clean compared to the previously drained oil, leading me to believe it might have to be filled separately from the main oil). It seems like there is 2 systems of oil in the pump. Do you know, if i simply refill the main reservoir, will the interior components receive the oil they need? they seem to be sealed off from each other. There was probably 1/2 cups of oil within the chambers that was released after taking the stages apart. Does this make sense?
thank you again for any help!
@@Philat4800feet this might be easier to explain this way... when you put the pump back together and fill the chamber normally, does the oil naturally go back into the 2 stage chambers, or does that oil need to be refilled prior to putting the pump back together?
@@ryanagostinelli3950 I'm sure the engineers designed the pump to flow the oil where needed. I didn't do anything but fill the reservoir.
@@Philat4800feet thanks for the help, much appreciated! great videos as well!
So I took mine apart, surprised how much rust I had. I’ve only had my unit 4 months. Cant get it down to 500mt. Oil is cloudy and dirty. I’ve replaced it three times now. Don’t know how to clean the dimister. Any ideas
There are three possibilities: pump problem, freeze drier leak, and other. I had the same issue. I went to a nearby hydraulic hose store and had them get me a vacuum gauge, #12 male JIC fitting and adapters (about $14.00). This device I placed on the hose leading to the vacuum pump. I started the pump and it jumped to 23" of hg. This ruled out the hose and pump. Somewhere on the FD was a leak. Start with the door gasket, use soapy water at really low vacuum, since high vacuum will vaporize the soapy water Run the pump for 2-3 minutes. Check the drain valve to see if it sucks up water when closed. Check all other joints and connections inside and under the chamber. Look through the door for bubbles entering the chamber. The last issue is this- Is your pressure reading, on the screen, giving you a false reading? The pressure sensor is under the second heating pad from the top. Check the wire harness and connection. Right now I'm putting a tee on my vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. This will let me know if my in/hg corresponds with my Mtorr read out. Video coming soon. Good luck. Let me know what happens.
I wouldn't worry about the dimister.
Phil help pls my pump is sucking in air from the switch that has the open , closed on top of the pump opposite side from the fitting for the hose. Is that normal? I cannot get enough mtorrs to do a proper freeze dry. I have the premium green pump from harvest right. Any help would be greatly appreciated I just spent 9hrs prepping for my next 3 runs and I alway like to do a function test before doing my run. When I stick my finger on the hole where the Allen screw goes that holds the switch I can feel it sucking air and if I turn the switch a little bit I can here the air suction stop but I'm still not getting enough m torrs. What are your thoughts?
Sorry, but I'm unfamiliar with that pump, However, All fittings need to be sealed with Teflon tape or other sealer. Check out the link below:
navacglobal.com/product/smart-vacuum-pump-np12dm/
I have search for information on who makes the Premium Pump. This pump is really close. You might want to call NAVAC (877.MY.NAVAC) and see if they can help you. If not get back to me.
Hi Phil. thank you . do you know how to take the oil mister off, this standard pump? harvest right teck told me to just unscrew it. TO the right??? I have tried and tried, both right and left. it turns about 1" both ways.
there is small wholes on the sides of the bottom ring. thought it might be a pin. but nothing.
Is there a way to clean the filter with out taking it off.
I forgot to close the drain valve, for 4 hours, on a load. then when I checked it, I closed it , everything seemed to be ok, no err signs , but checked the food after 24 hours, that's when I noticed the unit was not drying anything. wooops. fried oil smell. I only had 31 loads on the pump. Maybe I should have put food back in freezer, and defrosted it, very costly mistake for sure.
I have back flushed, and cleaned out the front chamber. when I tested it, again. it pulled a 498 mt. but then climbed back up. and never again pulled a 500. bottoms out a around 1400 mts.
before I tear it all apart again, to check the veins and reeds, I won't to check the oil mister.
also, would you know where to find parts if i need some?
thank you
I made the mistake years ago trying to remove the muffler. I wouldn’t do it. It took a long time to remove the water from within. I remember there’s a set pin towards the base.
If you can’t pull a vacuum you need to test for a vacuum. Do you have a Hydraulic hose shop near you? Remove the hose and take it in. You should have a #12 JIC fitting. Have them set you up with a male #12 JIC, adapter, Teflon tape, and vacuum gauge. Should be around $15-20. This will allow you to test the hose and pump. If you can pull 20 in/hg or better your hose and pump should be fine. The next step would be testing for leaks in and around the chamber. I made a video called “Why is my Harvest Right Freeze Drier Leaking Vacuum?” it may be helpful.
@@Philat4800feet
thank you so much for replying, I will make a test gauge like you mention.
thanks again.
ps, I wrote you a long reply, and lost it, haha 2 times, so I kept this one short. you lucked out.
@@eviebays I would run vac pump with fresh oil for 20 min then change the oil again to fresh oil. I work in large scale refrigeration systems and work the crap out of my HVAC vacuum pumps (they are almost identical) pulling vacuum on large chillers. I can run the pump for 12 hrs and pull something the size of a large SUV down to 500 microns (same as MTor I believe) pulling a vacuum on large equipment like that is almost like running freeze dryer with drain valve open for hrs. A change of oil later and my vacuum will pull down to 28 microns hooked up only to a micron meter.
How are you converting in/Hg to mTorr? I am able to pull 26 in/Hg on my pump, but using online converting calculators I come up with 26 in/Hg equaling 660,400 mTorr or 660.4 Torr. The conversion does not seem to correspond with the readings I get on the Harvest Right display.
I've had the same problem. Working on a solution.
A perfect vacuum with in/hg (English system) is 29.92 in/hg
A perfect vacuum in Mtorr or Micron (Metric) is 0 (zero)
in/hg starts out at 0 and goes to 29.92
Mtorr and Microns start at 760,000 and go to 0 (zero)
Both vacuums are perfect at sea level at the proper temperature.
One goes up (in/hg) and one goes down (Mtorr and Microns).
Vacuum pump manufactures often state what the pump will produce at sea level. This amount needs to be adjusted for your altitude. If your pump can't meet the factory specs at the adjusted altitude. the vanes are probably worn.
@@Philat4800feet Interesting... So how many in/Hg does my pump need to pull in order to achieve 500 mTorr in the freeze dryer? The online conversion calculators don't seem to give me an answer that makes sense.
1 torr = 0.999 "/hg. & 1 millitorrr is 0.001 torr. Mtorr is not a pressure measurement you will usually see in industry since it is such a tiny measurement of atmospheric pressure that it is normally only utilized in research & theoretical work. normally people in the AC/R industry deal in torr or in/hg. You are having a hard time converting because Phil had his decimal point off by 3 places. On the screen he stated that a pressure of 584 mtorr is equal to 23 inches/hg. I believe what he meant to say is that 584 torr = 23 in/hg, because if you actually convert 584 millitorr, it equals 0.02299 inches of vacuum. If you correct the decimal point error, you get 22.99 or 23 in/hg.
ive been having issues with rust as well, problem is i have to drain the oil every couple batches and pour the rust/water/oil out as its contaminating my oil. the pump works fine but i dont want this rust screwing up my pump? anyone else have these issues?
Which pump do you have? I still have my little standard pump. It runs great. I raise the rear of the pump up with a block of wood, empty the oil after every batch, and leave the drain valve open until the next batch. Water is a problem with vacuum pumps. Water leads to rust.
@@Philat4800feet yes i have the standard pump as well, its got to the point where rust particles can be seen in the sight glass and it leaves residue and particles in the filter when i empty it out. i guess i will have to call a tech from harvest right as i cant imagine the oil being good for the pump
@@chrishill4973 There is a video on how to power flush a vacuum pump. Check out the repair videos on Harvest Right's website
Would, or should we spray wd40 on that ball to prevent the rust on it?
WD40 will displace moisture. After that I would add a few drops of vacuum pump oil.
@@Philat4800feet thank you! We are suppose to get ours today and am going to do this. Appreciate your help!
Be careful of material chemical compatibility. It might create havoc with seals/orings.
I use a pipe cleaner to wipe the glass clean
Good idea
The reeds.