Thanks for making this video and sharing your collection with us. I appreciate the info on these fine beauties. I have a Certo Six with the Tessar lens and need to collect more folders.
This camera. My favorite, unassuming folder. Bought it on a whim 4 years ago and I shoot it often, far more than the few other folders I've got. That silly little Schneider triplet is among my favorite lenses of all time, regardless of price/age/esteem. I just love the damn thing. (Mine is one you mention but don't have.... later version with uncoupled rangefinder. RF is in the window (I'm assuming) that you point as for magnification. Looks the same as that one in the back.)
01:14 I just made that button so you can pull it out again. Unscrew the top screw and take everything apart. Pull the inside down so that it comes out. Oil and cleaning
Hello! I am the proud owner of a Franka Solida IIIe (with a sychro-compur that reach 1:500 of a sec, by the way!), but I got a question: is it possible to find a filter that could "open and close" like a window thin enough to close the camera with it? I don't think that there is much more spare space, perhaps two or three milimetres. If there is such a thing I don't know how it is called to look for it!
You know, it's hard for me to say because all of mine are in different states of condition. The newer ones are cool because of the shutter speed options, but I've always been partial to as basic as I can get while still getting the job done. I like using them without the leather cases, but then again, those cases are nice and have protected them for 60 years. So.. It's a tough call for me. I get sentimental with my basic cameras like K1000 or Nikon FM, or even Canon Rebel if talking from that era.
Thanks for your thoughts. I've got a pretty an F3 that's only had two rolls through it but just bought a Solida IIIe that looks to be in great condition. It has two circular and one rectangular windows on the front. So this has the rangefinder and magnification view but i'd assume it is uncoupled,, but not sure of the term. If I align the rangefinder boxes for focus is that actually making the physical change to the distance or do I just read from the distance scale and set my lens according to the reading? I'll have the camera on Friday.
My version with the 3 front windows has the Prontor SVS shutter and the timer where your last version sits up top. They must have made a bunch of different versions. Can't wait to shott it.
Those photos looked awesome. Are these lenses detachable from the camera, or do you have to remove it with screws etc? How did you adapt it to your digital camera? What kind of adaptor would you search for online?
It's easily removed using a spanner wrench and you'll have to focus the lens at infinity while adjusting the distance from the sensor or film plane. I used a macro focusing helicoid to find the correct length and then extension tubes. I had to sand one down to make it exactly focused at infinity.
@@danielisoardi223 Open the back of the camera and look inside. There's a ring around the back of the lens holding it on. Super easy, but you may need a spanner wrench or something you can fit deep down in.
Great video man. Beautiful collection.....I am trying to get going a Franka Solida IIIe and a Tower which is a rebadged Solida IIIe. I was wondering what size screw on filter fits the Schneider Radionar 80mm f/2.9 ? I measured the thread diameter and it looks to be 40mm +/- 1 mm......Is the filter a 39, 40 or 40.5mm? Also, what hood size/brand fits this lens?
The Radionar 80mm 2.9 lens used on your Frankas is the same as the lens on the Balda. Balda just changed the nameplate on the lens for its use. Triplet lenses like these were commonly used from the 1930s into late 1950s because they were less expensive than the 4-element Tessar types. Most were limited to 4.5 or a few at 3.5.(Ex., Zeiss Nettar) The Radionar at 2.9 aperture was designed to help sell the camera, but the trade was that the fast aperture made it one of the worst lenses of the type ever used. The change from Compur to Prontor shutters was cost-cutting, the Prontor being much cheaper. Nice Franka Solida collection.
by "worst," I assume you're referring to the, what is being called "bubble bokeh" The 80mm f2.9 Cooke Triplet design lenses definitely exhibit this character trait, especially noticeable against bright spotty light sources. It's not for every situation, but can be a useful tool in making unique images on film or modern cameras. I use it like a special brush in a painter's brush box
@@vyoufinder No, by "worst" I mean that it was a lens made only because it was as cheap to make as possible, to meet the requests of camera makers who wanted to make cheap consumer cameras without any regard for optical performance. More specifically, the Radionar 80mm 2.9 is one of the least sharp of the triplets, which aren't acceptably sharp when opened wider than f 8-11. The "bokeh" qualities you like are the result of uncorrected optical aberations. By the same argument, you could say that the bottom of a Coke bottle makes a great lens. As a matter of physics, it's difficult to make a 80mm 2.8 lens using four elements (Tessar), which itself is not very sharp wider than 4.0 - 5.6. To make the same spec with a triplet design is to just give up on achieving any norms of optical quality. These camera/lens combos were made at time when they were bought by consumers who had their film (B&W) processed and then contact printed. No one ordered enlargements. The lack of sharpness or any serious color correction in these lenses isn't a problem by those requirements.
@@randallstewart175 These sorts of value judgements, in this context, based purely around technical construction and their brethren MTF chart diatribes are some of the most tiresome to me. While all of this is technically true, then attaching "worst" and an objective non-creative "value" to the optic is another thing entirely. I both agree with you and simultaneously adore the Scheider triplets, probably moreso than Tessar types of the day overall, as well as for instance (to a lesser extent) the Rodenstock Trinar 105. In many ways it is an "awful" lens, and yet I have 20x30 hung prints of photos that were taken using them and they're exceptional. Do they hold up corner to corner, or is their resolve uniform, or is chroma not an "issue"? No, none of the above. And yet I'd sooner judge the photographs ahead of the lens, and not a test chart image comparison.
I have one with uncombined rf (rf and viewfinder in separate windows) and the advancing knob on the left. Coldshoe on top, therefore no dof table, and flaps for the film rolls. Prontor SV shutter up to 1/250s, XM switch and selftimer. 10 blades apperture. Your "the next change they made" is not chronologically accurate.
@@michalisf1955 Technically correct. He simply means rangefinder and viewfinder combined, not RF linked to focus. If you're going leave short contrary comments, perhaps add some information that explain why for future viewers.
Wow, your video reviews put 99% of the others out there TO SHAME. Thanks for showing and going through your awesome collection for us... more more!
Thanks for making this video and sharing your collection with us. I appreciate the info on these fine beauties. I have a Certo Six with the Tessar lens and need to collect more folders.
This camera. My favorite, unassuming folder. Bought it on a whim 4 years ago and I shoot it often, far more than the few other folders I've got. That silly little Schneider triplet is among my favorite lenses of all time, regardless of price/age/esteem. I just love the damn thing. (Mine is one you mention but don't have.... later version with uncoupled rangefinder. RF is in the window (I'm assuming) that you point as for magnification. Looks the same as that one in the back.)
And a question - would you consider adapting another one of those to PK for a price?? That'd make my month.
ya:
vyoufinder.com/autoload/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=222
01:14 I just made that button so you can pull it out again. Unscrew the top screw and take everything apart. Pull the inside down so that it comes out. Oil and cleaning
Great review! You know your stuff, thumps up from me.
Hello! I am the proud owner of a Franka Solida IIIe (with a sychro-compur that reach 1:500 of a sec, by the way!), but I got a question: is it possible to find a filter that could "open and close" like a window thin enough to close the camera with it? I don't think that there is much more spare space, perhaps two or three milimetres. If there is such a thing I don't know how it is called to look for it!
What's your favorite version? Great video, thanks.
You know, it's hard for me to say because all of mine are in different states of condition. The newer ones are cool because of the shutter speed options, but I've always been partial to as basic as I can get while still getting the job done. I like using them without the leather cases, but then again, those cases are nice and have protected them for 60 years. So.. It's a tough call for me. I get sentimental with my basic cameras like K1000 or Nikon FM, or even Canon Rebel if talking from that era.
Thanks for your thoughts. I've got a pretty an F3 that's only had two rolls through it but just bought a Solida IIIe that looks to be in great condition. It has two circular and one rectangular windows on the front. So this has the rangefinder and magnification view but i'd assume it is uncoupled,, but not sure of the term. If I align the rangefinder boxes for focus is that actually making the physical change to the distance or do I just read from the distance scale and set my lens according to the reading? I'll have the camera on Friday.
My version with the 3 front windows has the Prontor SVS shutter and the timer where your last version sits up top. They must have made a bunch of different versions. Can't wait to shott it.
Those photos looked awesome.
Are these lenses detachable from the camera, or do you have to remove it with screws etc?
How did you adapt it to your digital camera? What kind of adaptor would you search for online?
It's easily removed using a spanner wrench and you'll have to focus the lens at infinity while adjusting the distance from the sensor or film plane. I used a macro focusing helicoid to find the correct length and then extension tubes. I had to sand one down to make it exactly focused at infinity.
Can you explain how to remove the lens from the camera please!!! 🙏 Thanks!!!
@@danielisoardi223 Open the back of the camera and look inside. There's a ring around the back of the lens holding it on. Super easy, but you may need a spanner wrench or something you can fit deep down in.
Great video man. Beautiful collection.....I am trying to get going a Franka Solida IIIe and a Tower which is a rebadged Solida IIIe. I was wondering what size screw on filter fits the Schneider Radionar 80mm f/2.9 ? I measured the thread diameter and it looks to be 40mm +/- 1 mm......Is the filter a 39, 40 or 40.5mm? Also, what hood size/brand fits this lens?
It's 40.5mm. I use cheap metal telephoto hoods with mine.
The Radionar 80mm 2.9 lens used on your Frankas is the same as the lens on the Balda. Balda just changed the nameplate on the lens for its use. Triplet lenses like these were commonly used from the 1930s into late 1950s because they were less expensive than the 4-element Tessar types. Most were limited to 4.5 or a few at 3.5.(Ex., Zeiss Nettar) The Radionar at 2.9 aperture was designed to help sell the camera, but the trade was that the fast aperture made it one of the worst lenses of the type ever used. The change from Compur to Prontor shutters was cost-cutting, the Prontor being much cheaper. Nice Franka Solida collection.
by "worst," I assume you're referring to the, what is being called "bubble bokeh" The 80mm f2.9 Cooke Triplet design lenses definitely exhibit this character trait, especially noticeable against bright spotty light sources. It's not for every situation, but can be a useful tool in making unique images on film or modern cameras. I use it like a special brush in a painter's brush box
@@vyoufinder No, by "worst" I mean that it was a lens made only because it was as cheap to make as possible, to meet the requests of camera makers who wanted to make cheap consumer cameras without any regard for optical performance. More specifically, the Radionar 80mm 2.9 is one of the least sharp of the triplets, which aren't acceptably sharp when opened wider than f 8-11. The "bokeh" qualities you like are the result of uncorrected optical aberations. By the same argument, you could say that the bottom of a Coke bottle makes a great lens. As a matter of physics, it's difficult to make a 80mm 2.8 lens using four elements (Tessar), which itself is not very sharp wider than 4.0 - 5.6. To make the same spec with a triplet design is to just give up on achieving any norms of optical quality. These camera/lens combos were made at time when they were bought by consumers who had their film (B&W) processed and then contact printed. No one ordered enlargements. The lack of sharpness or any serious color correction in these lenses isn't a problem by those requirements.
@@randallstewart175 These sorts of value judgements, in this context, based purely around technical construction and their brethren MTF chart diatribes are some of the most tiresome to me. While all of this is technically true, then attaching "worst" and an objective non-creative "value" to the optic is another thing entirely. I both agree with you and simultaneously adore the Scheider triplets, probably moreso than Tessar types of the day overall, as well as for instance (to a lesser extent) the Rodenstock Trinar 105. In many ways it is an "awful" lens, and yet I have 20x30 hung prints of photos that were taken using them and they're exceptional. Do they hold up corner to corner, or is their resolve uniform, or is chroma not an "issue"? No, none of the above. And yet I'd sooner judge the photographs ahead of the lens, and not a test chart image comparison.
Geez, I might as well just use mine as a door stop.
I have one with uncombined rf (rf and viewfinder in separate windows) and the advancing knob on the left. Coldshoe on top, therefore no dof table, and flaps for the film rolls. Prontor SV shutter up to 1/250s, XM switch and selftimer. 10 blades apperture.
Your "the next change they made" is not chronologically accurate.
Ja...go ahead and keep slamming closed those film doors. It’ll last another 100 years.
exactly, plus there are no Solidas with coupled rangefinder
@@michalisf1955 Technically correct. He simply means rangefinder and viewfinder combined, not RF linked to focus. If you're going leave short contrary comments, perhaps add some information that explain why for future viewers.