The hall sensor connector pinout on my hoverboard controller is in the order as the one on the ZS board. If the original hall connector is intact then just connect to the ZS board in the same order. In my case the blue from the motor connected to the yellow and the yellow to the white.
ah, you have the same problem I was going to ask about...@3:50, terrible low speed performance in terms of that grinding sound and I would guess also much lower torque relative to the hoverboard controller. I guess maybe these ZS-X11H boards simply can't do smooth low RPM's? The original hoverboard controller obviously does as when you stand on it and lean forwards it can go very slowly and very smoothly forwards. Too bad if this is the case as these ZS boards are way easier to use.
Reverse is broken so almost half of the functionality is bad, it locks up so it's even worse than if they didn't provide the reverse. I hope it can be fixed by mixing around the hall sensor wires. (btw hacking hoverboard motherboards with custom firmwares gives you dual esc without such issues...) Any update?
Hej jag har en liknande setup men min hoverboard motor har jättelite vridmoment när jag använde denna hastighetskontroll. Motor hade betydligt mer vrid moment med kretskortet från hoverboarden
Hacking the original driver board is far better in terms of smooth control. I was unlucky about the version of my board and couldnt get a proper firmware for that exact version. But some people are happy with the replacement controller as well.
I had the same issue until i rewired it several times. If it runs really fast and makes noice and there is no slow torque the wires might be not right.
It might be that you have one hall sensor or motor coil broken. If the motor controller do not get any hall sensor info it does not put any output on. There should be allways at least one hall sensor ON, never all 3 at the same time. If you push to start it then it goes over bad sensor but doesnt start if it stops on that bad sensor / coil
@@th9034 i tried 4 different motors now, its highly unlikely all 4 motors have the same issue, but i do feel like it has something to do with the hall sensor
Using same ZS-X11H. ruclips.net/user/shortsvwXGz9Ci9wY Not bad. But! - no direction detect. Only one phase encoder tick; - low encoder resolution, cause same reason - only one hall sensor in output "speed pulse"; - two modules are dead on the same wheel (maybe wheel is broken) at big torque reverse.
I have the same problem with these motor drivers. I’ve used them for a couple projects now and 3 out of 6 is now dead. Do you or anyone know of a better alternative?
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The e/s/c/ needs to be bigger than 80 amps but an 80 amp will work well.
The hall sensor connector pinout on my hoverboard controller is in the order as the one on the ZS board. If the original hall connector is intact then just connect to the ZS board in the same order. In my case the blue from the motor connected to the yellow and the yellow to the white.
ah, you have the same problem I was going to ask about...@3:50, terrible low speed performance in terms of that grinding sound and I would guess also much lower torque relative to the hoverboard controller. I guess maybe these ZS-X11H boards simply can't do smooth low RPM's? The original hoverboard controller obviously does as when you stand on it and lean forwards it can go very slowly and very smoothly forwards. Too bad if this is the case as these ZS boards are way easier to use.
Reverse is broken so almost half of the functionality is bad, it locks up so it's even worse than if they didn't provide the reverse.
I hope it can be fixed by mixing around the hall sensor wires.
(btw hacking hoverboard motherboards with custom firmwares gives you dual esc without such issues...)
Any update?
Hej jag har en liknande setup men min hoverboard motor har jättelite vridmoment när jag använde denna hastighetskontroll. Motor hade betydligt mer vrid moment med kretskortet från hoverboarden
Kretskortet er absolutt best, mer stillegående og mer effektiv. Hvis du bare klarer å kontrollere det.
Prøv å reversere retning og se om der hjelper!
@@swishpanwhat main IC they used? Stm32m?
what are your plans for the controllers and the hoverboard motors? I'm working on a setup similar to yours.
Hacking the original driver board is far better in terms of smooth control. I was unlucky about the version of my board and couldnt get a proper firmware for that exact version. But some people are happy with the replacement controller as well.
I had the same issue until i rewired it several times. If it runs really fast and makes noice and there is no slow torque the wires might be not right.
Hi, im facing the same issue now, could you pls let me know what wires you changed?
Thankyou
Mine needs a slight puch with my hand for it to start spinning
It might be that you have one hall sensor or motor coil broken. If the motor controller do not get any hall sensor info it does not put any output on. There should be allways at least one hall sensor ON, never all 3 at the same time. If you push to start it then it goes over bad sensor but doesnt start if it stops on that bad sensor / coil
@@th9034 i tried 4 different motors now, its highly unlikely all 4 motors have the same issue, but i do feel like it has something to do with the hall sensor
Ok then its not the motor... And the encoders are straight connected to the controller and no parallel arduinos etc? Enough voltage and amps?
Is it possible to do 36 volts?
@@mickmeuwissen8717 The board supports up to 60v so just make sure the motor doesn’t get too hot
Using same ZS-X11H.
ruclips.net/user/shortsvwXGz9Ci9wY
Not bad. But!
- no direction detect. Only one phase encoder tick;
- low encoder resolution, cause same reason - only one hall sensor in output "speed pulse";
- two modules are dead on the same wheel (maybe wheel is broken) at big torque reverse.
So you think the problem with these is that they only use one encoder input?
Your driver is broken.
These boards are really crap.. 6 of them went bad
Sorry to hear, did this happen during normal use, or during stalls etc?
I have the same problem with these motor drivers. I’ve used them for a couple projects now and 3 out of 6 is now dead. Do you or anyone know of a better alternative?