I had an appointment to get the very same (front-left) hub swapped on Friday. Instead, I just did it myself, and cancelled the appointment. I'm also one #36 socket richer now. ;) Thanks!
Really good video, torque issue aside. The point of these videos is to allow others to do it after watching, and you definitely achieved that goal. Keep them coming!
Thank you, sir! This video is sure encouraging to someone who hasn't done much mechanics before. Never having done this before, I would now not be afraid of doing this myself! I love the quality, lighting, simplicity, and details of your video, so I subbed!
I broke two of my studs on my Jeep a few months ago and was trying to find a decent video or tutorial on how to replace one and yours was perfect to watch. Thank you so much and I’m gonna go buy the hub assembly myself and replace it instead of having a mechanic shop do it.
hotrodsather yes i can tell you from experience and my stupidity that you can actually die from not following torque measurement yes you can get lucky but it's better to play it safe and spend the 80$.
Hey there. Really nice video. Clear video, clear audio, straight forward, and concise. I had some idea of the process, but this has certainly filled in some gaps and helped me plan this job out. I truly appreciate you sharing.
Nice concise video. For anyone watching I would definitely recommend trying the caliper up out of the way with a piece of wire or something rather than letting it hang by the hose. There's to much potential for a problem.
Definitely! Brittle old lines will break. Don’t learn this the hard-way. Tie them up or set them on a spare Jack stand or box. Something LOL. DONT LET THEM JUST HANG 😂
Thanks for the video it is nice to review before changing my hub assembly out - I am not sure about your torque specs though black55stude lists what i believe to be the correct specs early in the comments -- 75 ft-lbs for hub to knuckle bolts and 175 ft-lbs for axle shaft nut. Thanks again for taking the time to do the video it is much appreciated!
this was so great and I will certainly use it when doing the job myself. I also love reading many of the dumb comments from people who really didn't watch the video but were trying to find fault with it- only to make themselves look dumb in the end. They were very, very entertaining!
Missie Kenney dumb comments like torque specs that aren't accurate and spouting specs without even using a torque wrench to set the torque? ya I bet. only ones who look uneducated are the host and you. it was fairly educational
I used a 1/2 inch 12 point socket for the rear bolts and it worked great, couldn't find a 14mm 12 point and the six point wasn't going to cut it. Thanks for the vid!
AWESOME !! I just bought a 96 XJ 4x4 last week and today the front right brake froze up. limped 8 miles to home at 3 mph .... will get 2 new rotors and hubs tomorrow at junkyard and have them refurbished at my local brake shop then just SNAP 'EM ON !!! Thank you for making this seem so simple.
torque specs are 75 ft-lbs for hub to knuckle bolts; 175 ft-lbs for axle shaft nut; Caliper bolts vary by year but are low torque. 90-96 4WD 15 ft-lbs, 97-up 132 in-lb (11 ft-lbs) if Chilton is correct. Another tip, if your vehicle is rusty and the hub assy. is seized in the knuckle, loosen the 12 pt. bolts and use a socket on an extension to brace one of the integral washers against the axle C, use the steering of the vehicle to force the hub out. (keep your hands out of the way!)
Thanks for the video I just did my 96 but the 3 hub bolts on it are 1/2 “ 12 point a 13mm was to big, maybe aftermarket bolts from the PO but the caliper bolts were 10mm ?
Thanks for the vid doing this on my 95 in the am hoping itll cure my bad vinration and death wobble wish me luck both my bolts holding caliper on are rounded out (hex heads) so have to weld a nut onto them to get em off
I liked your work. My 92 Jeep XJ is in need of some front end care this spring - brakes, rotors, calipers, bearing and dust shield. The last time I watched this done they put that anti-seize on all the surfaces to avoid the whole stuck by rust. would you also suggest cleaning all the threads and surfaces with a wire wheel/brush too?
Hanging your brakes by the line like that? I'm a n00b yet I know that's terrible advice! Use a bungie cord or bent wire to hook that sucker up to relieve line tension. Also, when reattaching the brake, it helps to secure the rotor using two lug nuts to temporarily hold it in position.
Good Video for us not so mech inclined... Was good to see it done before just taking things apart... As for Ryler X's comment.... at 11:40 he would have seen the brake caliper being taken off a hanger then installed back on... Thx for the simple How-to.....
yeh, 14lbs is not correct, looked it up, spec says 175 ft/lbs for Hub to spindal and 75 ft/lbs for hub to knuckle. www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=270
Hopefully you didn't torque everything to 14# pounds like he said. The 3 rear bolts are 75# and the axle nut is 175# pounds. Why he kept saying 14# pounds is beyond me, not even close to being correct.
+Ron Daszkiewicz Same here, he's most likely already replaced them before. I've already replaced mine but pretty sure the cheap ass amazon GMB hubs I ordered one is already bad and making a droning noise at high speed. >:[
Great video quality, and informative, but I would check the torque specs. I may be doing my 97 next week same side. I have a roar but am not sure if it is tires, bearing, of front end
2000 jeep cherokee xj Will a broken rear leaf spring shackle bracket cause the rear end to be a little off enough to where you can hear a noise in the rear end? I have replace Ring Gear and what i call cluster bearing with what i know was a good set up out of my other Jeep with the same ratio. New axle bearing, no help. I thought well has to be pinion bearing then i thought will that broken shackle bearing cause that rear end to be off centered and make a noise???
Hello thunderhead7 just did mine I really like your video. I'm just wondering the reasons I did mine cuz it was making a noise like a thumbing noise like, but after I put the new ones the noise still there so I'm kinda bump out not sure what it could be:( any pointers??
finally if the axle is stuck in the hub just pull them as an assembly and then use a shop press to press the axle out of the old hub. way easier than messing with pullers etc. on the vehicle although in a pinch you could use an old "hub puller" for very old Jeeps or Studebakers with tapered rear axles if you have one.
So I did all this minus using a torque wrench. (Hence why I'm here watching) because now It like grinds and won't move more than a few inches after I got everything back together. I thought I had wrong parts but all the number match. Is it because I didn't use a torque wrench?? I'm headed to buy one now
Thanks so much man! I have to do my bearings and this will help out alot!! What kind of lift is on your jeep? How many inches of lift to clear those tires?
Not routine. If you drive smooth, not much off roading on rough trails etc These will last about 80-100k miles But again Driver habits, road conditions and age of vehicle are important. I changed mine at 180k But i do not know if they were done already by prev owner. I had bearing failure so it was a must do. If you hear a slight or significant humming noise from the front ,any vibration at your feet when slowing down or speeding up, squealing as you drive, hear or feel rubbing or grinding when the wheel is up off the ground as you spin it by hand.. These can be good indicators of a Wheel Hub bearing failing. Be aware these symptoms can also be a Differential issue as well.
Nice Cherokee my 95 2 door has soo much rust when I replaced my front axle shafts (which you need to remove the hub for) there was no brake heat shield only little tiny pieces of rusty metal hanging off LOL
Thanks for this video, its got everything you want as far as a how to goes. I'm pretty sure mine is shot since it sounds like bb's spinning ina coffee can when driving.
Great, thanks! I noticed you had unlocked hubs (free wheeling hubs, as we call them in UK) can you give me info for my Jeep Grand cherokee Ltd 4.0lt Thanks again.
All I have to say about this is it's obviously not 14 foot-pounds of torque. Axle nuts are usually above 100 ft/lbs of torque. The bolts in the back are probably around 40-60 ft/lbs. 14 ft/lbs you can do with one hand and a quarter-inch ratchet. It wouldn't require putting your whole body into it.
LoL...I was just going to say that. Dude either has the torque set WAY past 14ftlbs or he needs to lift a weight or something. My guess is he had his mind on the 14mm bolts on the back.
Doing this on my 92 xj, and in my case the bolts that hold the hub on are basically froze. Not even pb blast is doing the job. And now one of the bolts is rounded. So everyone. it's not so easy is some cases. It can be a nightmare!
+Brad Brown I found out 1w points work a ton better to get the bolt off. lol. and I beat the crap out of it with a sledge hammer. and had to use a crowbar to pry the hub off the axle.
The hub just does'nt fall off as shown,not in my experience anyways. A couple of hours with a hub puller,application of heat and some hammering is required to break seal with backplate!!!
Mine is a 1997 Cherokee sport... my hub didn't just come off. Bearings were so bad it was seized to the axle. All it took was several beats of a hammer on the triangular outer mount to break it free. Also the torque specs are wrong on the video. Still a great video tutorial...
DO NOT LET YOUR BRAKES HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!!! The rubber hose can stretch and begin to tear, not so much that it will immediately leak, but enough that it can pop when you hit the brakes, then you have no brakes
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I had an appointment to get the very same (front-left) hub swapped on Friday. Instead, I just did it myself, and cancelled the appointment. I'm also one #36 socket richer now. ;) Thanks!
Good video! makes me want to move to the desert where 96 Cherokee never rust.
Really good video, torque issue aside. The point of these videos is to allow others to do it after watching, and you definitely achieved that goal.
Keep them coming!
+MultiSeal1 Thank you.
Thank you, sir! This video is sure encouraging to someone who hasn't done much mechanics before.
Never having done this before, I would now not be afraid of doing this myself!
I love the quality, lighting, simplicity, and details of your video, so I subbed!
I broke two of my studs on my Jeep a few months ago and was trying to find a decent video or tutorial on how to replace one and yours was perfect to watch. Thank you so much and I’m gonna go buy the hub assembly myself and replace it instead of having a mechanic shop do it.
Use a 13mm 12 point socket.
Torque specs are 75 pounds!!!
Torque spec for Hub is 175 ft. lbs.!!!!
Really does not matter as he never actually used a torque wrench....
hotrodsather yes i can tell you from experience and my stupidity that you can actually die from not following torque measurement yes you can get lucky but it's better to play it safe and spend the 80$.
I don't think I've ever torqued down my axle nut either just made sure it was tight. Never had any issues
Hey there. Really nice video. Clear video, clear audio, straight forward, and concise. I had some idea of the process, but this has certainly filled in some gaps and helped me plan this job out. I truly appreciate you sharing.
+Armando Paz Thank you.
Good job, have you ever changed that universal joint there on the axlie ?
thanks for the video. Looks easy enough to do. I appreciate that you mentioned the main axle nut 36mm size.
Nice concise video. For anyone watching I would definitely recommend trying the caliper up out of the way with a piece of wire or something rather than letting it hang by the hose. There's to much potential for a problem.
Definitely! Brittle old lines will break. Don’t learn this the hard-way. Tie them up or set them on a spare Jack stand or box. Something LOL. DONT LET THEM JUST HANG 😂
I'm amazed at how simple the job is
Thanks for the video it is nice to review before changing my hub assembly out - I am not sure about your torque specs though black55stude lists what i believe to be the correct specs early in the comments -- 75 ft-lbs for hub to knuckle bolts and 175 ft-lbs for axle shaft nut. Thanks again for taking the time to do the video it is much appreciated!
this was so great and I will certainly use it when doing the job myself. I also love reading many of the dumb comments from people who really didn't watch the video but were trying to find fault with it- only to make themselves look dumb in the end. They were very, very entertaining!
+Missie Kenney Thank you.
Missie Kenney dumb comments like torque specs that aren't accurate and spouting specs without even using a torque wrench to set the torque? ya I bet. only ones who look uneducated are the host and you. it was fairly educational
I used a 1/2 inch 12 point socket for the rear bolts and it worked great, couldn't find a 14mm 12 point and the six point wasn't going to cut it. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you.
I got a 14mm 12-pt, but it just spun. ½" 12-pt fit perfectly.
Well done and straight forward. eliminates the fear factor.
I think that show got cancelled about 10 yrs ago.
Thanks for the presentation... working on my son's 92 Cherokee. Great job.
+NumberUno Person Thanks
14 ft lbs is the wrong torque setting for the hub assemptly-to-steering knuckle bolts. It should be 75 ft lbs.
Glad i found this video, will be doing mine as soon as the parts get here. Thanks for doing a good job taking it step by step
+Charles Balog This was the purpose! Thanks
Very helpful ...do you have any videos on how to change the drag link and tie rods
Simple enough. Thanks for making this video. Communication was clear and straight to the point. Nice jeep by the way. Looks cool as shit for a pre97
Thank you.
AWESOME !! I just bought a 96 XJ 4x4 last week and today the front right brake froze up.
limped 8 miles to home at 3 mph .... will get 2 new rotors and hubs tomorrow at junkyard and
have them refurbished at my local brake shop then just SNAP 'EM ON !!! Thank you for making this seem so simple.
torque specs are 75 ft-lbs for hub to knuckle bolts; 175 ft-lbs for axle shaft nut; Caliper bolts vary by year but are low torque. 90-96 4WD 15 ft-lbs, 97-up 132 in-lb (11 ft-lbs) if Chilton is correct. Another tip, if your vehicle is rusty and the hub assy. is seized in the knuckle, loosen the 12 pt. bolts and use a socket on an extension to brace one of the integral washers against the axle C, use the steering of the vehicle to force the hub out. (keep your hands out of the way!)
Thank you for the video. It's going to make what I thought would be a very difficult repair, very easy!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. It is very helpful. Thiught I was going to dimantel the whole front end.
Cheers from
Brownsville, Tx.
Thanks for the video I just did my 96 but the 3 hub bolts on it are 1/2 “ 12 point a 13mm was to big, maybe aftermarket bolts from the PO but the caliper bolts were 10mm ?
Thanks for the vid doing this on my 95 in the am hoping itll cure my bad vinration and death wobble wish me luck both my bolts holding caliper on are rounded out (hex heads) so have to weld a nut onto them to get em off
I liked your work. My 92 Jeep XJ is in need of some front end care this spring - brakes, rotors, calipers, bearing and dust shield. The last time I watched this done they put that anti-seize on all the surfaces to avoid the whole stuck by rust.
would you also suggest cleaning all the threads and surfaces with a wire wheel/brush too?
Hanging your brakes by the line like that? I'm a n00b yet I know that's terrible advice! Use a bungie cord or bent wire to hook that sucker up to relieve line tension.
Also, when reattaching the brake, it helps to secure the rotor using two lug nuts to temporarily hold it in position.
+VideoNOLA If I was leaving them to hang for long then yes I would do as you suggest.
at 11:38 you can see he did have it secured with a wire hanger...
Good Video for us not so mech inclined... Was good to see it done before just taking things apart... As for Ryler X's comment.... at 11:40 he would have seen the brake caliper being taken off a hanger then installed back on... Thx for the simple How-to.....
your a very good guy to watch and listen to you used layman's terms that regular shade tree mechanics could understand and relate to, Thank you.
Thanks for the video, very informative. Now I can do mine this weekend.
So helpful!! I can't wait to work on mine now
Excellent presentation! i appreciate the how to as i have a 99 Jeep XJ that loves to be worked on....apparently :)
Thank you.
yeh, 14lbs is not correct, looked it up, spec says 175 ft/lbs for Hub to spindal and 75 ft/lbs for hub to knuckle. www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=270
i thought he meant 114 lol
Hi, nice video. Thanks for sharing.
Would you please specify what Permatex product did you use for threads? Thanks
Thanks, a great video. Quick and too the point. Now I know what I'm in for. Thanks again.
I changed mine, thanks to this video, great help. The noise stopped but only for about a month, the squeeking is back, what else can it be?
Hopefully you didn't torque everything to 14# pounds like he said. The 3 rear bolts are 75# and the axle nut is 175# pounds. Why he kept saying 14# pounds is beyond me, not even close to being correct.
Good video, I like how you had everything loosened off to save time and drama.
Thanks for the info. Feel confident I can change one without issue. 👍🏼
Thanks for the video! How would you rate this job as far as the experience level? Beginner?
its all so clean. where's the rust? I spent more time trying to break the axle but loose then he spent doing the video.
+Ron Daszkiewicz Same here, he's most likely already replaced them before. I've already replaced mine but pretty sure the cheap ass amazon GMB hubs I ordered one is already bad and making a droning noise at high speed. >:[
+Calvin Hobbes You are correct, I have done this before, we don't get much rust in dry Arizona.
you made this look easy! thanks a bunch!
this is my project for today! great step by step!
Great video quality, and informative, but I would check the torque specs. I may be doing my 97 next week same side. I have a roar but am not sure if it is tires, bearing, of front end
2000 jeep cherokee xj Will a broken rear leaf spring shackle bracket cause the rear end to be a little off enough to where you can hear a noise in the rear end? I have replace Ring Gear and what i call cluster bearing with what i know was a good set up out of my other Jeep with the same ratio. New axle bearing, no help. I thought well has to be pinion bearing then i thought will that broken shackle bearing cause that rear end to be off centered and make a noise???
You drive that with broken rear suspension parts? You must not wanna live much longer.
Was this gonna make squeegee & rubbing noise when you turn your front wheels on drive
I noticed the lock on the jackstand hasn´t been hammered in, it´s the ear in the U . I like your video, thanks.
I'll check for that.
Hello thunderhead7 just did mine I really like your video. I'm just wondering the reasons I did mine cuz it was making a noise like a thumbing noise like, but after I put the new ones the noise still there so I'm kinda bump out not sure what it could be:( any pointers??
+coyotealejandro1976 Sounds like your front drive shaft
I removed my 3 hub bolts and axle nut but my hud doesn't come out like yours?
That 14lbs of torque was crucial 😂😭😂😭
+zizzleo08 Yea you can put 14 lbs of torque using a normal wrench definitely looked over torqued.
14 ft lbs, You’re gonna lose a wheel if you only torque it that much. Lol
Try 175 foot pounds of torque, and 75 on the 3 in the back
finally if the axle is stuck in the hub just pull them as an assembly and then use a shop press to press the axle out of the old hub. way easier than messing with pullers etc. on the vehicle although in a pinch you could use an old "hub puller" for very old Jeeps or Studebakers with tapered rear axles if you have one.
how are you reaching torque specs with a breaker bar and not a torque ratchet?
Brad Brown my thoughts too. Just tossing numbers out and not even using a torque wrench
14 ft pounds 😂
Magic...
Damn that jeep is clean down there👍
So I did all this minus using a torque wrench. (Hence why I'm here watching) because now It like grinds and won't move more than a few inches after I got everything back together. I thought I had wrong parts but all the number match. Is it because I didn't use a torque wrench?? I'm headed to buy one now
Thanks so much man! I have to do my bearings and this will help out alot!! What kind of lift is on your jeep? How many inches of lift to clear those tires?
Good video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thanks for the video.
good video..and its nice to see you using grease on reassembly,its something i have always done on any vehicle i have worked on..including my own..;-)
Thank you.
Im assuming its the same procedure for the 1995 grand cherokee zj
Same axle, both are Dana 30s.
ok, very good vid about this replacement, this is so useful, thanks.
Just wanted to update you, the noise was the u joints in the drive shaft.
Cool, I had the same issue with my drive shafts.
A lot of help thank u n great video
Thanks to explain easily, good job!
How do you tell if the hub needs replaced or is this routine maintenance I'm a new jeep owner
Not routine. If you drive smooth, not much off roading on rough trails etc These will last about 80-100k miles But again Driver habits, road conditions and age of vehicle are important. I changed mine at 180k But i do not know if they were done already by prev owner. I had bearing failure so it was a must do. If you hear a slight or significant humming noise from the front ,any vibration at your feet when slowing down or speeding up, squealing as you drive, hear or feel rubbing or grinding when the wheel is up off the ground as you spin it by hand.. These can be good indicators of a Wheel Hub bearing failing. Be aware these symptoms can also be a Differential issue as well.
Nice Cherokee my 95 2 door has soo much rust when I replaced my front axle shafts (which you need to remove the hub for) there was no brake heat shield only little tiny pieces of rusty metal hanging off LOL
Rust rocks.
Thanks for the vid.
Maybe that's how that goes in New Mexico or Arizona.....It takes longer that that to get the wheel off here in NYS
Excellent video
Probably a good idea to change both side, I need to change the axles on the passenger side so while I'm doing that I will install a new hub!!
Thanks for this video, its got everything you want as far as a how to goes.
I'm pretty sure mine is shot since it sounds like bb's spinning ina coffee can when driving.
Great, thanks! I noticed you had unlocked hubs (free wheeling hubs, as we call them in UK) can you give me info for my Jeep Grand cherokee Ltd 4.0lt Thanks again.
Yes at the time I had open axle but know I have a LockRight Locker up front.
Easy procedure, Thanks
So yeah, my hub and rotor are seized on the steering knuckle. Any advice from anyone?
A hammer and a chisel
air hammer always works lol
just did it five minutes ago... big hammer, and hit it from inside going out. Weird angle but mine was stuck pretty good and I got it.
All I have to say about this is it's obviously not 14 foot-pounds of torque. Axle nuts are usually above 100 ft/lbs of torque. The bolts in the back are probably around 40-60 ft/lbs. 14 ft/lbs you can do with one hand and a quarter-inch ratchet. It wouldn't require putting your whole body into it.
Glad somebody said it
hub bolts to steering knuckle - 75 ft lb axle nut 175 ft lb
I was thinking, Damn, this guy needs to use a lot of elbow grease for 14lbs on a 2 foot breaker bar......
LoL...I was just going to say that. Dude either has the torque set WAY past 14ftlbs or he needs to lift a weight or something. My guess is he had his mind on the 14mm bolts on the back.
+David Robertino Thanks for the correct torque values
good job, only that you shouldn´t leave the caliper assembly hanging like that. you may easily cause some damege the the brake hose
You left out the hard part! Breaking the hub loose! Cheese.
When I change hub and installed every thing it sounded good until 4 hours later it started making grinding noise
Probably because you torqued everything to 14 lbs psi.
Spec is actually 175 ft-lb on the 36mm nut, I believe 80 ft-lb for the 3 m12's.
Doing this on my 92 xj, and in my case the bolts that hold the hub on are basically froze. Not even pb blast is doing the job. And now one of the bolts is rounded. So everyone. it's not so easy is some cases. It can be a nightmare!
did you ever get it off? if so, how?
+Brad Brown
I found out 1w points work a ton better to get the bolt off. lol. and I beat the crap out of it with a sledge hammer. and had to use a crowbar to pry the hub off the axle.
+Colby 1w points?
Sorry, 12 point socket
just did mine this weekend
Those hubs don't always come out that easy sometime that thing can be a bitch to beat out of there, you got lucky on this one man !
The hub just does'nt fall off as shown,not in my experience anyways. A couple of hours with a hub puller,application of heat and some hammering is required to break seal with backplate!!!
Thank you!
14 foot pounds of torque...
Uses breaker bar until impossible to turn farther 😂😂😂
😂😂😂 I was thinking the same thing
Bend those damn tabs in on the jack stands!! lol
yeah, such a simple solution to such an aggravating problem !
Mine is a 1997 Cherokee sport... my hub didn't just come off. Bearings were so bad it was seized to the axle. All it took was several beats of a hammer on the triangular outer mount to break it free. Also the torque specs are wrong on the video. Still a great video tutorial...
The hub bolts are 13mm... Not 12, and definitely needs to be a 12 pointed socket!
Thank you
Lug nug nuts should be set to 175 or 200 ft/lbs I believe. Not 14 ft/lbs
DO NOT LET YOUR BRAKES HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!!! The rubber hose can stretch and begin to tear, not so much that it will immediately leak, but enough that it can pop when you hit the brakes, then you have no brakes
Hand brake.
😎👍
Subbed
You made that look entirely too easy haha
Help plz
Man, u have not yet corrected your torque specs yet, are you alive ???
Do not hang your brake calipers to any diyers out there
Not in the rust belt
14??? 14 what? Wow man
3 bolts on the back are 75# pounds.
The 36mm axle nut is 175# pounds.
Definitely not 14# and 14#. I hope no one ever did that.
Wellllll Nooooo Shit 😮 Simple Hand Tools and some grease I thought that would been harder to do
75 ft lbs, not 14