I write from Sardinia ... your work is absolute amazing. I’ve started since 2 years ,trying to improve with yamadori plants, this videos are gold !!! Tnx again
Thank you for the very helpful explanations and zooming images that show us your work in detail. After watching this video again I got the idea of cutting the spruce buds after they harden (as you mentioned on your video yesterday): it's about structuring the next years growth.
That's a pleasure to watch Tora Bonsai School videos again and again. About spruces, I have a well established Dwarf Picea Spruce about 60 cm tall and 8 -10cm diameter at the base; I repotted it into a shallower pot this March and did pinching the buds as you showed us about two weeks ago. Now I think it's time for the first styling. The problem is that my spruce has two big nodes along the trunk, I mean 4 or 5 branches growing from the same point. I suppose I should cut off some of them and leave just a maximum of two on a node? Another question is to do pruning the branches and wiring at beginning of summer, when the tree will bleed lots of resin, or wait till late autumn or so to do it? Thank you
Thanks for watching my videos! It is always hard to give advice if you don't see the tree in person. Sometimes more branches from one point is only solutions you have, but in theory is better to cut them. Are the shoots hard already? Do they have the same color as the old ones? If so, then it is time for styling. I always tray to work on spruces in the beginning of the summer because then the wire can stay on the tree longer.
thank you for your advice. I'll wait one or two weeks for the buds to have the same colour as the rest and then I'll try the first styling on my spruce which looks like a proper Christmas tree with a nice thick canopy of foliage at the top. It's a bit daunting for me as a beginner, as I already killed two junipers so far with my styling. So, the resin bleeding after cutting some branches won't do much harm to the tree, will it?
Needles are covered with essential oil which prevents evaporation. With touching the needles with our dry hands we clear the oil and the needles dry out in matter od minutes.
At 8:01 you say, "The tree is done growing for the year and the branches will not thicken any more." Yes it's true that the tree's foliage stops growing by the end of June, however, the tree's vascular growth (branch thickening) won't begin until the end of the summer and will continue through the Fall! So, the reason you can wire the tree in June is that the foliage has hardened off will be less easily damaged when applying wire. Great video, keep up the great work and beautiful trees!
Well, in theory you might be right. But in the real life the branches are thickening the most when the growth is in full swing. So, if you wire your tree in the April, then you'll be cuting the wire off already at the end of the June, because it will be biting in to the bark. But if you wire your tree after that first flush of growth, then you can leave the wire on the branch (in the most cases) for almost a year, which is of course more eficient. I am just talking from my 20+ yrs of experiences ... Thanks for watching!
@@Caseydog3 hardyness means, that the plant is imune to cold. If the freezing of roots would be a problem, than we wouldn't have trees. First year after the plant grows out of the seed, the roots are very shalow and when winter comes they freez. And there is no problem. The problem is not cold, problem is winter drought, so we must water our plants and give them a shelter from the winds, not from the cold.
Your videos are always beautiful and very interesting! The spruce is just fantastic. You are a great artist very compliments! 👍👍👍👍😊
Thank you!
I write from Sardinia ... your work is absolute amazing. I’ve started since 2 years ,trying to improve with yamadori plants, this videos are gold !!! Tnx again
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the tip about pruning the spruce!
You are welcome!
Thank you for the very helpful explanations and zooming images that show us your work in detail. After watching this video again I got the idea of cutting the spruce buds after they harden (as you mentioned on your video yesterday): it's about structuring the next years growth.
A nice and helpful video. Beautiful tree as well.
Again very informative. Thanks from Malta for sharing.
Awesome work on your trees. I appreciate the advice and information you provide. Good luck with everything.
Thanks!
Again a well made video with clear and helpful advice and two beautiful finished Bonsai!
Cheers and C U soon,
Hans van Meer.
Hans Karamotto thanks, your opinion means a lot to me!
I am thinking of growing my own bonsai and spruce could look very nice :)
Beautiful work.
Thanks!
First time viewer. I really enjoyed the style of video editing and even the music.
Thanks! You are more than welcome to watch other videos too!
@@Torabonsaischool I most certainly will. Thank you.
That's a pleasure to watch Tora Bonsai School videos again and again.
About spruces, I have a well established Dwarf Picea Spruce about 60 cm tall and 8 -10cm diameter at the base; I repotted it into a shallower pot this March and did pinching the buds as you showed us about two weeks ago. Now I think it's time for the first styling. The problem is that my spruce has two big nodes along the trunk, I mean 4 or 5 branches growing from the same point. I suppose I should cut off some of them and leave just a maximum of two on a node?
Another question is to do pruning the branches and wiring at beginning of summer, when the tree will bleed lots of resin, or wait till late autumn or so to do it? Thank you
Thanks for watching my videos!
It is always hard to give advice if you don't see the tree in person. Sometimes more branches from one point is only solutions you have, but in theory is better to cut them. Are the shoots hard already? Do they have the same color as the old ones? If so, then it is time for styling. I always tray to work on spruces in the beginning of the summer because then the wire can stay on the tree longer.
@@Torabonsaischool
thank you for your advice. I'll wait one or two weeks for the buds to have the same colour as the rest and then I'll try the first styling on my spruce which looks like a proper Christmas tree with a nice thick canopy of foliage at the top. It's a bit daunting for me as a beginner, as I already killed two junipers so far with my styling. So, the resin bleeding after cutting some branches won't do much harm to the tree, will it?
@@prataelena4211 no, no harm
...!...
gratificantes todos los vídeos
*GRACIAS*
♡
...!...
Thanks for watching!
Really nice! So prune it in early spring and wire it summer
Exactly!
@@Torabonsaischool Thank you. I am just starting and there is still a lot to figure put!
Perfect !
Great beautiful video
A question,
what kind of camera do you use ?
Image looks so great
Thanks
My main camera is Sony fdr ax53
@@Torabonsaischool it makes a great images
Why is the spray bottle used? I’m very curious
As was explained in the video: with spraying we prevent needles to fall off. With Spruce this is very important.
Tora bonsai school ooooh! I didn’t know this and will make a good addition to my spruce knowledge! Thank you!
Interesting... but why the water prevent the needles to fall off? It would be cool if you could explain why.. thank you
Needles are covered with essential oil which prevents evaporation. With touching the needles with our dry hands we clear the oil and the needles dry out in matter od minutes.
is it true that in bonsai anatomy and aesthetics, the lowest branch should not be the back branch.
That would be the front one ...
At 8:01 you say, "The tree is done growing for the year and the branches will not thicken any more." Yes it's true that the tree's foliage stops growing by the end of June, however, the tree's vascular growth (branch thickening) won't begin until the end of the summer and will continue through the Fall! So, the reason you can wire the tree in June is that the foliage has hardened off will be less easily damaged when applying wire. Great video, keep up the great work and beautiful trees!
Well, in theory you might be right. But in the real life the branches are thickening the most when the growth is in full swing. So, if you wire your tree in the April, then you'll be cuting the wire off already at the end of the June, because it will be biting in to the bark. But if you wire your tree after that first flush of growth, then you can leave the wire on the branch (in the most cases) for almost a year, which is of course more eficient. I am just talking from my 20+ yrs of experiences ... Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
How often do I water a juniper in cold climate winter indoors?
Indoors? Junipers (at least most od them) are hardy and I left them outside during winter..
8” pot in PA ?
Hardyness is not corelated with size ...
No but I thought the root ball would freeze and kill it
@@Caseydog3 hardyness means, that the plant is imune to cold. If the freezing of roots would be a problem, than we wouldn't have trees. First year after the plant grows out of the seed, the roots are very shalow and when winter comes they freez. And there is no problem. The problem is not cold, problem is winter drought, so we must water our plants and give them a shelter from the winds, not from the cold.
Can you risk die back on spruce when spring / summer wiring?
No, with proper technique there is no risk.
@@Torabonsaischool Can you explain what proper technique is. Water spray. More? (thank you for taking your time!)
@@StonesDrown spraying is very important, yes. And timing, so I don't wire during elongation of new shoots, untill they are fully developed.