You remind me of my Dad, even though you are 50 years younger. He would tell stories all the time and you use a lot of the old school practices/ fixes for your farm equipment that he did. Really miss him!
The 'old tractor' forums recommend using that 10w30 you are thinking about swapping in. Modern oils have all the goodies that the old oils did not (detergents and high pressure additives). Last I was in an auto parts store it was hard finding any 10w because so much is 5w or even 0w now. One caution I heard about the snap couplers, this is mainly the field plows, is keep the 'snap' part well oiled and maintained -- some farmers have been killed or severely injured when the front tongue latch released allowing the tongue to drop into the dirt and pivot the whole plow around the upper arms and crush the operator at the steering wheel. Some have used a safety chain to the tongue just in case. In December I got a 52 WD with the last of the AC pin hitches (and I'm converting it to Ferguson style 3 point, since I have Fergusons and matching implements). AC had mod kits to convert their implements to/from pin/snap/3-point later on. So you might look around for the kits or design ideas if you want to make the blade fit all the tractors you have (sometimes you need a backup tractor). I do like seeing the old iron out working!
Something that may help is some truck drivers have carried a piece of chain to put on the wheel in snowy weather when they got stuck. Instead of throwing a full set of chains on. They would wrap it around the duals and fasten the ends with snap hook away from the valve stem. It would help to get you unstuck. Then they would remove it and continue at normal speeds. Just need to research a good way to attach ends so you don t hurt the tire. Most of the time I just run with no chains and the rear blade and loaded tires. It has been the Ice that gets you. That is why I mention the above. Just watch your valve stem. Rear chains are not cheap. I made one side and that was expensive. Hope this may help in the future if it works with that tractor. Weight on rear is helpful also. You will find the balance that is needed for that tractor to work well. I am beginning to like the Alice and features. This area does not have a lot of them.
Good morning! I was very puzzled why you were planning to blade the drive with an open-station tractor when there’s a nice warm cab tractor around until I saw your blade was a snap coupler attachment. Reminds me of our Allis-Chalmers WD-45; we had a disk, a plow, and a drawbar that snapped (the disk wasn’t bad but you had to do some awkward hoisting to get the drawbar in). We moved our wheels in and out annually - out to disk and in to bale hay or combine. Never a fun time. Thanks for the trip down memory lane!
Power-adjust rear rims were invented by Allis-chalmers; when the patent ran out they became common for smaller tractors. Ask a John Deere owner the torture required to change rear wheel spacing. As Tractors got more powerful these rims would tend to slip more. This was common as these tractors were set wide while row-crop cultivating.
Evan, please don't use 10W30 oil!! It is detergent oil !! If you were told by previous owner to use non-detergent oil you be wise to do it !! Go with a 20 wt or 10 wt in the winter !! That is what I do with my older tractors that requires non detergent oil . Or use na engine heater . Google it and you will understand why !! I pray you don't take my suggestion the wrong way !!! Be safe and God bless you and yours !!!! Eddy
It takes a bit of rigging, but take canvas , wide enough to reach from front tractor from the radiator to the rear fenders. Rap it around and fasten to the other side so it tops out on each side about the bottom of hood, the fan blow the heated air, it will funnel the heat from around the engine back to the operator and keep you warm and toasty, we called it the heat houseŕ.
For $20 you can get a heated dip stick; for $50 you could get a block heater. Then you could run Go 90 thru the engine and it wouldn't care in the winter. LOL!
Definitely 10W30 over straight 30 weight. That will still give you the protection of 30 weight when the engine is hot, but will flow like 10 weight when it is cold.
Spray your cam locks with a rust breaker, master blaster or something similar. Hit them several times before moving your wheels. Use the breaker bar and start on the top and work down. Move wheel and tighten by starting on the bottom and working up. Allis invented the power shift system. If you can't open cans, Jack up tractor and remove brackets that hold cams and soak in atf, then use heat and get them loose.
Evan ,those wheels are known as PAVT wheels (power adjustable variable track) ,One of my MF tractors is fitted with them.As for driving the AC snow ploughing you cant beat an old ex WD army greatcoat good gloves and a decent fur hat to keep you warm.
I always wondered what those rails were for on the inside of the rims on older tractors! Learn some thing new everyday! I am in S Illinois near St. Louis and we ended up with 8.5 inches out of that storm. I’m ready for spring🤣👍🏻👍🏻
@@toddsoutsideagain most people never doing the wheels in or out once set to the tire width of their crops. We moved them for stability on the hills when working with hay.
I'm sure it would be more comfortable inside of the heated cab of the TYM. But a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. By the way, the aerators are working way better than I expected.
Hey Evan I've had Allis Chalmers all my life and my grandfather always ran 15w-40 in them. Good for the flat tappet and old engines need zinc. Diesel oils contain a good amount of zinc and I always have great oil pressure with rotella 15w40.
You need a winch to pull logs out of the woods. There are several ways to do this. There are hydraulic and pto driven models that can be mounted to the 3 point hitch.
The things you call stops are actually locks, you need to move them up on the rail to lock the tires in place. They were used all the way up to the 8000 Model. Had them on 7040 and 210 had them on the duels also.
Good old D17 getting her done Evan you need to get a set of tire chains for the old girl I run 15w40 in all my old IH tractors need zinc for the flat top cams I have block heaters on my tractors they start right up. My buddy has a D17 with 30w oil he plugged It in when he need it. He said it's one of the best starting tractors he has. P.s can't wait for your next video
Evan, you are losing tons of torque on your impact with that long extension, try not to use an extension or as short as possible you will see a big difference in the torque from your tools.
When I first bought my D17 we had to spin the rims in to get it on my trailer. All the locks were frozen up. Poor kid who sold it to me broke his dad's breaker bar, then went through almost all the fuel in his torch. A lot of heat and my big cordless impact finally got them loose.
you know 3 point blades are pretty cheap used,and plow it all away from the prevailing wind side ,an go fast, pan heater and a softplug heater,hit the like button,love this guy
You have good ideas and the farm is beautiful in the snow! You have done so much to the new shop and makes me happy for y’all to work together so well! God bless my friend!
Keven, the rear wheel you fixed. Those lug nuts are no way tight enough with that small impact wrench you used. You got to tighten the with the pipe and breaker bar , the same way you got the lose. On the one that won’t move , put the heat and WD40 penetrating oil to it .
Those aren’t really lug nuts and do not tighten with threads. There’s a little ear that turns from the lock to unlock position. It binds the rail in lock, but when the ear hits its stop, it stops. No need to turn until it squeaks like a lug nut.
It would be nice in that cab, use the new tractor with the front end loader to plow with. I live in New Brunswick Canada and have plowed snow for 45 years , I don't Know anyone up here that uses blades on the back to plow snow with. I don't mean to sound like I'm a know it all ,just saying, I'd rather plow watching forward and in a nice warm cab. I plow with 1954 super H that has no cab . I like your videos very much so keep them coming .
Switching to 10w-30 definitely sams like a good idea or what i would prefer is a 10w-40 science it then gets a bit thicker when it's warm witch probably isn't a bad thing in that old tractor witch wants a bit thicker oil at least when it's warmed up. SEA 30 Is mainly used in lawn mowers these days science the other oils have become so good at being thin when it's cold and thick when it's warm.
Wow, I have been around farm tractors all my life but we never owned a tractor with a rim like that. I've seen them before but never realized how they worked or their purpose or that you could adjust them without jacking the tractor up. really neat video.
Good evening Evan Boy I can remember them days up there in the cold ! BOY those really slid good on those rails I thought maybe you'd have a problem but you didn't!! Always enjoy watching and listening to you Evan!♡♡♡♡
you can buy a block heater that hooks into the bypass line and works like a percolator , also a heat lamp on the starter . Harbor freight sells a cheap 3/4 inch socket set and while the ratchet is not very good the breaker bar and sockets have held up to 8' cheater bars on disk gang bolts for us. you might be able to make a new frame for the blade to attach to and be able to use it on a new style 3pnt (cab ed tractor). the dogs have lots of fur i dont think you have very much :) i have made a canvas cab before with like a piece of plexi for a window
@@CountryViewAcres never used a magnetic heater figured the peculator type was about 1/2 way between the magnetic and the factory block heater like them because they heat the whole engine but not as easy as the magnetic s hope you had fun moving the snow 🌨️
Great demo of tire width setting! That crack when the cam bolts loosen is startling; whether it shocks the arm on the wrench, or with the cheater bar and you have to wonder whether the wrench survived.
Evan I think I'd be looking to make a 3 pt hitch on that snowplow so I can use that sucker with that HEATED cab tractor you have. That Alis Chalmers is going to be a chilling experience. Brrrr.
You might consider a fairly inexpensive magnetic engine electric heater because you can have it grab onto the oil pan and put its heat directly into the oil. Regardless of whether you still have the 30 weight oil or the 10W30, it will make winter starting much better because a good amount of the heat will migrate up into the engine block after it passes through the liquid oil.
The cams on the spin outs on my D17 were extremely tight; same with locks. I finally broke them free with a 3/4 drive pneumatic impact. Yes, you can run them on a small compressor, just not for long. I also ran sae 30 in the engine. I just used the cheap HD diesel oil from Rural King until this winter when I tore it down for overhaul. The engine was worn out, smoking, and leaking really bad when we got it. Check your stater bushings and brushes if you thing the starter is dragging or just low on torque. A good read on the sparkplugs will tell you a lot as well. Ever check the timing? Mine was way out...
The snap coupler was the best design made for coupling implements. A truly hands off design, no man handling the the swing arms like the Ferguson 3 point design.
Love the old iron, Evan, but I'd be looking for a 3 pt blade for that TYM and taking advantage of that heated cab. I lived north of Peoria for 8-1/2 years. The wind never stopped and the windchill was brutal. Granted it isn't quite as bad over here on the east side of Illinois, but it's been cold enough. I don't have a cab on my little 25 hp New Holland, but I may look into one to al least break the wind. I'm looking for a used rear blade for it, but 4 ft blades seem a tad rare. I absolutely love the new pole barn.
Suggest a magnetic block heater. Park Allis close to the barn in the winter. Remove the battery and keep it on trickle charge.
Wow! IT worked! Ready to plow! The Homestead is beautiful in white, Evan!
No Better Sound than a Allis Chalmers motor
Edge tamers on the loader bucket to remove snow with the new tractor and a heated cab
You remind me of my Dad, even though you are 50 years younger. He would tell stories all the time and you use a lot of the old school practices/ fixes for your farm equipment that he did. Really miss him!
The 'old tractor' forums recommend using that 10w30 you are thinking about swapping in. Modern oils have all the goodies that the old oils did not (detergents and high pressure additives). Last I was in an auto parts store it was hard finding any 10w because so much is 5w or even 0w now.
One caution I heard about the snap couplers, this is mainly the field plows, is keep the 'snap' part well oiled and maintained -- some farmers have been killed or severely injured when the front tongue latch released allowing the tongue to drop into the dirt and pivot the whole plow around the upper arms and crush the operator at the steering wheel. Some have used a safety chain to the tongue just in case. In December I got a 52 WD with the last of the AC pin hitches (and I'm converting it to Ferguson style 3 point, since I have Fergusons and matching implements). AC had mod kits to convert their implements to/from pin/snap/3-point later on. So you might look around for the kits or design ideas if you want to make the blade fit all the tractors you have (sometimes you need a backup tractor). I do like seeing the old iron out working!
Something that may help is some truck drivers have carried a piece of chain to put on the wheel in snowy weather when they got stuck. Instead of throwing a full set of chains on. They would wrap it around the duals and fasten the ends with snap hook away from the valve stem. It would help to get you unstuck. Then they would remove it and continue at normal speeds. Just need to research a good way to attach ends so you don t hurt the tire. Most of the time I just run with no chains and the rear blade and loaded tires. It has been the Ice that gets you. That is why I mention the above. Just watch your valve stem. Rear chains are not cheap. I made one side and that was expensive. Hope this may help in the future if it works with that tractor. Weight on rear is helpful also. You will find the balance that is needed for that tractor to work well. I am beginning to like the Alice and features. This area does not have a lot of them.
Good morning! I was very puzzled why you were planning to blade the drive with an open-station tractor when there’s a nice warm cab tractor around until I saw your blade was a snap coupler attachment. Reminds me of our Allis-Chalmers WD-45; we had a disk, a plow, and a drawbar that snapped (the disk wasn’t bad but you had to do some awkward hoisting to get the drawbar in). We moved our wheels in and out annually - out to disk and in to bale hay or combine. Never a fun time. Thanks for the trip down memory lane!
My rule of thumb is to plow when there is 3-4 inches and again as needed. I don't trust the weather guessers and don't need to get my equipment stuck!
The doggies are in snow glory with that snow. It is a lot easier for the to control their internal thermostat.
I really wanted to see you plow.😊
Me, too, Margaret!! 💞
Matt from Diesel Creek recommends Kroil to break bolts ĺoose
That tractor is such a back saver when it comes to firewood!
Hi. Well....here in Edmonton we have this about 5-6 months of the year. Dress warm.
Patricia, same in northern Ontario as well
Power-adjust rear rims were invented by Allis-chalmers; when the patent ran out they became common for smaller tractors. Ask a John Deere owner the torture required to change rear wheel spacing. As Tractors got more powerful these rims would tend to slip more. This was common as these tractors were set wide while row-crop cultivating.
Evan, please don't use 10W30 oil!! It is detergent oil !! If you were told by previous owner to use non-detergent oil you be wise to do it !! Go with a 20 wt or 10 wt in the winter !! That is what I do with my older tractors that requires non detergent oil . Or use na engine heater . Google it and you will understand why !! I pray you don't take my suggestion the wrong way !!! Be safe and God bless you and yours !!!! Eddy
It takes a bit of rigging, but take canvas , wide enough to reach from front tractor from the radiator to the rear fenders. Rap it around and fasten to the other side so it tops out on each side about the bottom of hood, the fan blow the heated air, it will funnel the heat from around the engine back to the operator and keep you warm and toasty, we called it the heat houseŕ.
Thanks we’re overheating here at the southern tip of Africa
..just a bit of fine tunin' needed...lol...stay safe...
For $20 you can get a heated dip stick; for $50 you could get a block heater. Then you could run Go 90 thru the engine and it wouldn't care in the winter. LOL!
I learn something new every time I watch Country View ;-)
Never seen a rim like that before let alone seen it move.
Thanks for sharing as always Evan.
Definitely 10W30 over straight 30 weight. That will still give you the protection of 30 weight when the engine is hot, but will flow like 10 weight when it is cold.
Spray your cam locks with a rust breaker, master blaster or something similar. Hit them several times before moving your wheels. Use the breaker bar and start on the top and work down. Move wheel and tighten by starting on the bottom and working up. Allis invented the power shift system. If you can't open cans, Jack up tractor and remove brackets that hold cams and soak in atf, then use heat and get them loose.
We got 12'' of snow in Valparaiso, IN . last week .
We got about a foot and a half north of you in Chesterton In.
My plow truck went belly up Tuesday afternoon.
Evan ,those wheels are known as PAVT wheels (power adjustable variable track) ,One of my MF tractors is fitted with them.As for driving the AC snow ploughing you cant beat an old ex WD army greatcoat good gloves and a decent fur hat to keep you warm.
I always wondered what those rails were for on the inside of the rims on older tractors! Learn some thing new everyday! I am in S Illinois near St. Louis and we ended up with 8.5 inches out of that storm. I’m ready for spring🤣👍🏻👍🏻
Allis was the innovator of the spin out wheels.
@@markfin7225 we had an old Allis when I was a kid! I remember those rails in the rims but really never knew what they did👍🏻
@@toddsoutsideagain most people never doing the wheels in or out once set to the tire width of their crops. We moved them for stability on the hills when working with hay.
Extra work today
I'm sure it would be more comfortable inside of the heated cab of the TYM. But a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. By the way, the aerators are working way better than I expected.
Been waiting for this video…It’s everything I hoped it would be…My idea of Paradise...Love you two! “Shout out” to Rebekah…
Putting the date on the opening scene is an excellent idea.
Hey Evan I've had Allis Chalmers all my life and my grandfather always ran 15w-40 in them. Good for the flat tappet and old engines need zinc. Diesel oils contain a good amount of zinc and I always have great oil pressure with rotella 15w40.
You need a winch to pull logs out of the woods. There are several ways to do this. There are hydraulic and pto driven models that can be mounted to the 3 point hitch.
Love my Allis-Chalmers grew up on them... must be why in my later years moved to Kubota still that pretty Orange
The things you call stops are actually locks, you need to move them up on the rail to lock the tires in place. They were used all the way up to the 8000 Model. Had them on 7040 and 210 had them on the duels also.
Great homemade chili weather! Y’all stay warm out there brother 🤙
Good old D17 getting her done Evan you need to get a set of tire chains for the old girl I run 15w40 in all my old IH tractors need zinc for the flat top cams I have block heaters on my tractors they start right up. My buddy has a D17 with 30w oil he plugged It in when he need it. He said it's one of the best starting tractors he has. P.s can't wait for your next video
Good job, stay warm
Great camera work on the tire. I was afraid you were going to break the bolts when you were trying to loosen them. 👍
Evan, you are losing tons of torque on your impact with that long extension, try not to use an extension or as short as possible you will see a big difference in the torque from your tools.
When I first bought my D17 we had to spin the rims in to get it on my trailer. All the locks were frozen up. Poor kid who sold it to me broke his dad's breaker bar, then went through almost all the fuel in his torch. A lot of heat and my big cordless impact finally got them loose.
Enjoy whatever y’all do. Alwaysinteresting. Love the. Animals
That was pretty slick!! Never knew that before!! Pretty Kool way to adjust the width of the tractor!
I grew up on the AC tractors there should be another lock on the inside of that rail it keeps it from moving
you know 3 point blades are pretty cheap used,and plow it all away from the prevailing wind side ,an go fast, pan heater and a softplug heater,hit the like button,love this guy
Evan , at a parts store , buy a spray can of Deep Creek to loosen up the wheel lugs , good luck , stay safe !
Deep creep
Very cool adjusting the wheel width. We had tractors with wheels like that but I never knew how they worked. Thank you Evan.
Boy Evan, that sure looks cold! Grew up in Missouri, I can remember winter's like this. Brrr....
JudithB That was cool!!! Watching the tire slide over like that!!
Gonna have to make a duck feeder with a roof
Evan
Put penetrating oil on those bolts and let it set for a little while.
Kroil is my choice but there are lots more that are good.
I'd either never seen a tractor with these or I've never noticed them. It's a clever invention to be sure.
use 15-40 weight. works like a charm on these old machines.
Evan your daughter Rebecca is a good match keep up the good work
I had never seen someone adjust one of those wheels. Thanks for that! I understood the function, just hadn't seen it. Snazzy!
You have good ideas and the farm is beautiful in the snow! You have done so much to the new shop and makes me happy for y’all to work together so well! God bless my friend!
I know it's cold and windy but have to say the snow covered ground is gorgeous. Hope you got to catch a few views of it. Good video.
It is too cold and snowy for me Evan. We just got rain and you don't have to shovel that. Stay warm and have a Blessed day.
A weighted socket might have worked great on the impact gun.
Great video!👍🏻
Keven, the rear wheel you fixed. Those lug nuts are no way tight enough with that small impact wrench you used. You got to tighten the with the pipe and breaker bar , the same way you got the lose. On the one that won’t move , put the heat and WD40 penetrating oil to it .
Those aren’t really lug nuts and do not tighten with threads. There’s a little ear that turns from the lock to unlock position. It binds the rail in lock, but when the ear hits its stop, it stops. No need to turn until it squeaks like a lug nut.
Nice. Good job😎
Awsome Allis love the vid
don't forget to put your iner lock on rim and get a snow blower
Every day is a school day with you, didn't know what the rails were for on the rims. Well done
I think a little bit of tractor crack will help starting.
I love your story. I wish many more happy anniversary’s for you. You have done a fantastic job developing your property,
It would be nice in that cab, use the new tractor with the front end loader to plow with. I live in New Brunswick Canada and have plowed snow for 45 years , I don't Know anyone up here that uses blades on the back to plow snow with. I don't mean to sound like I'm a know it all ,just saying, I'd rather plow watching forward and in a nice warm cab. I plow with 1954 super H that has no cab . I like your videos very much so keep them coming .
I got the snow in Missouri around 6 inches and today, tomorrow the temp will be near 60. I don't have a rear blade yet, so I had to use the bucket
Switching to 10w-30 definitely sams like a good idea or what i would prefer is a 10w-40 science it then gets a bit thicker when it's warm witch probably isn't a bad thing in that old tractor witch wants a bit thicker oil at least when it's warmed up. SEA 30 Is mainly used in lawn mowers these days science the other oils have become so good at being thin when it's cold and thick when it's warm.
Wow, I have been around farm tractors all my life but we never owned a tractor with a rim like that. I've seen them before but never realized how they worked or their purpose or that you could adjust them without jacking the tractor up. really neat video.
The snow is beautiful! Be safe!
good job man good job
Your property looks absolutely stunning in the snow and also love your turkey
Good evening Evan Boy I can remember them days up there in the cold ! BOY those really slid good on those rails I thought maybe you'd have a problem but you didn't!! Always enjoy watching and listening to you Evan!♡♡♡♡
I have never seen that done before.
you can buy a block heater that hooks into the bypass line and works like a percolator , also a heat lamp on the starter . Harbor freight sells a cheap 3/4 inch socket set and while the ratchet is not very good the breaker bar and sockets have held up to 8' cheater bars on disk gang bolts for us. you might be able to make a new frame for the blade to attach to and be able to use it on a new style 3pnt (cab ed tractor). the dogs have lots of fur i dont think you have very much :) i have made a canvas cab before with like a piece of plexi for a window
I got a magnetic block heater on order
@@CountryViewAcres never used a magnetic heater figured the peculator type was about 1/2 way between the magnetic and the factory block heater like them because they heat the whole engine but not as easy as the magnetic s hope you had fun moving the snow 🌨️
Stay warm and safe.
It’s good you got the tractor sorted
Good evening, I never ever seen a tractor wheel like that
I run 10w30 in my D17 and it still doesn’t like the cold.
My old Case tractors use 10 wt non detergent oil in the hydraulics & 10w30 detergent oil in the engine.
Great demo of tire width setting! That crack when the cam bolts loosen is startling; whether it shocks the arm on the wrench, or with the cheater bar and you have to wonder whether the wrench survived.
I'm thinking that one cam lock may be loose already and just needs to be tightened? that rim moved too easy to have a cam lock still tight.
Thanks for sharing Evan. Glad you got your other tractor ready to plow. Stay safe and will catch your next video to see how it all plowed. Fred.
Great video as always. Thanks for sharing!
That worked good.
thanks for the video C.V.A.
Evan I think I'd be looking to make a 3 pt hitch on that snowplow so I can use that sucker with that HEATED cab tractor you have. That Alis Chalmers is going to be a chilling experience. Brrrr.
My d 17 stars good when it cold just used the choke
Just started watching - love that beginning music 💞
Looks like you might need to update your impact Evan👍
You might consider a fairly inexpensive magnetic engine electric heater because you can have it grab onto the oil pan and put its heat directly into the oil. Regardless of whether you still have the 30 weight oil or the 10W30, it will make winter starting much better because a good amount of the heat will migrate up into the engine block after it passes through the liquid oil.
I ordered one a few days ago.
Fantastic video as always keep it up
Let it snow😀
The cams on the spin outs on my D17 were extremely tight; same with locks. I finally broke them free with a 3/4 drive pneumatic impact. Yes, you can run them on a small compressor, just not for long.
I also ran sae 30 in the engine. I just used the cheap HD diesel oil from Rural King until this winter when I tore it down for overhaul. The engine was worn out, smoking, and leaking really bad when we got it.
Check your stater bushings and brushes if you thing the starter is dragging or just low on torque. A good read on the sparkplugs will tell you a lot as well.
Ever check the timing? Mine was way out...
I would apply WD40 or a penetrating oil on bolts to loosen 40 min. to 1 hour prior to loosening...
Beautiful
The snap coupler was the best design made for coupling implements. A truly hands off design, no man handling the the swing arms like the Ferguson 3 point design.
Nice video
Love the old iron, Evan, but I'd be looking for a 3 pt blade for that TYM and taking advantage of that heated cab. I lived north of Peoria for 8-1/2 years. The wind never stopped and the windchill was brutal. Granted it isn't quite as bad over here on the east side of Illinois, but it's been cold enough. I don't have a cab on my little 25 hp New Holland, but I may look into one to al least break the wind. I'm looking for a used rear blade for it, but 4 ft blades seem a tad rare. I absolutely love the new pole barn.
I have been looking for a used blade also. Winter is a bad time look. Everybody needs them.