Sam, a very damp chimney breast in upstairs bedroom 10 years ago resulted in new chimney stack being built from attic upwards. Cracks in the clay liner showed up in the CCTV footage (3 i think) ? from a chimney fire they said. It was the painter who discovered that the stack was moving. Storm damage was also mentioned. It became an insurance claim. The chimney was relined with Eldfast Ceramic material and a flue connected to a multifuel stove was installed. A cowl was put on also. A few years later some paint bubbled on the chimney breast a bit like the initial problem, but not as bad. The chimney guy came back and inspected chimney, flashing and capping and said all was ok. Attic area also checked. He said the chimney could be "sweating" as he has seen this before and said nothing could be done! Well it gradually got worse and we just stripped repainted it as we hoped it was old damp. There are a few damp stains again on it now on the upper part, and middle of both side walls of chimney breast, and some paint is cracking, I put a dehumidifier in the room and about 300ms of water collected in 3 hours (dont know anything about dehumidifiers). Husband checked attic again and chimney breast dry there and around attic. House built in 1988. Im now wondering could it be a salt problem?I need to get to the bottom of this any advice greatly appreciated. thanks
Hope you can appreciate without a site visit it would be unprofessional to try diagnose this, I’d say instruct a competent qualified expert damp specialist surveyor to look at it.
This was excellent. We've friends who've just moved into a 1930s property and are suffering this exact issue (previous occupants had a coal fired burner).
Very useful, thanks, The chimney breast in my victorian house has large patches of visible damp and 2 roofers have come round each claiming it's something completely different and offering wildly varying quotes to "fix" it. Now I know it's probably not a roofing issue
I can’t really comment on prices there is a big variation up and down the country. Also if you look hard enough someone will always do the job cheaper. That may not be the best tho
Ayup pal, I’ve renovated a bungalow built in 62 with brick and block it’s got 2 x layer of bitumastic damp course around the external walls. I have blocked the old fireplace as the customer wanted a modern look inside. At the same time we had to rip out the lounge concrete floor as it had cracked and dropped right where the original underfloor air vent pipe was leading under the lounge floor to the air brick for the fire on the exterior wall. This pipe had collapsed causing the floor to drop in the middle causing a jump, anyway long story short. We poured the new floor, removed old cast iron fire etc blocked the fire place up, had the whole place plastered, happy days. I’m just now after the rain we’ve had getting a small salty wet patch around a double socket on the wall behind the old fireplace chimney stack. The chimney has not got a cap on it, it’s wide open, there is no air vent at all in the stack. What can I do?? My thoughts were… cap the chimney off with a raised cap to allow air flow at the top, then install an air brick at the back of the old fireplace to allow air flow at the bottom, will this suffice dya reckon? It’s a tiny patch of damp as big as me thumb just next to the socket back box nowhere else but I don’t want it to get worse and I need to sort something bit more long term, help??
Hi, this video is very helpful!! thank you!!! I am a basement flat in a VIctorian 1880s home - to which my flat is below ground level - historically used for servants. I have damp all on the base of my chimney breasts x 3 reaching at about 30-60cm high with zebra patches of salt residue. I removed the plaster and bonding to expose the brick and can see there’s been a DPC installed. Leak detection survey revealed uncapped chimneys. Could this be the cause? as i have damp all along the structural walls that are connected to a chimney and have plaster on top. what to do next?? 😭😭😭 please help!
Hi Sam, Great video. I’ve noticed damp on the ceiling adjacent to my bedroom chimney breast this morning. It happened about 6 months or so ago and nothing since, until last night. It is about 2 foot wide and comes out about 6 inches. I think it has dripped down the breast. Last Summer, the roofer put a couple of cowls on the chimney and I asked him if he could see any problem up there. He couldn’t. Would I need to rake out the mortar in the breast joints in the attic and redo? My house is 1924, so no felt, rosemary tiles, torched onto batons. Any insight would be helpful. Cheers, Ps. I’ve subscribed 👍 Nigel, Swansea
Send me some pictures and videos and I’ll comment on it for you, send to our WhatsApp 07973748566
2 месяца назад+1
Very useful video but a bit depressing as I’ve had multiple roofers and a roof surveyor claim to know the problem and how to fix it (including removing the stack altogether). Still I get damp when it rains after almost 2 years trying to resolve. I’m now thinking it’s the salts you’re talking about but I don’t have any colour staining at all. Only damp towards the top of the breast / ceiling. Does the lack of yellow / brown stains rule out salts? Thank you.
No salts manifest in lots of ways but mainly as damp patches. Some surveyors are better than others so I feel for you, iv found that there are common sense surveyors and paper surveyors one has done the job and got the qualifications the others learned parrot fashion just repeating what they have read with no relevance
2 месяца назад
@@dampsam thanks for that. Could I send you a photo just to get an opinion?
Hi Sam - two quick questions, if I have moisture coming through from old unused chimney (1936 house) onto the breast inside (dark yellow brown staining and some patches on ceiling near to it. Do you think fitting airbricks externally for air flow will fix? Also in your opinion, had a new roof fitted 2-3 years ago, there are no air vents, would this cause a change in roof space atmosphere which, is why we might be seeing the damp on the chim breast? Thanks mate Ade
Not sure without a site visit but roof vents and chimney stacks need venting adequately, the staining and salts would need isolating using one of the many systems
Loving your content, really helpful stuff. I need your advise. I have an Edwardian terrace, blessed with open fireplaces around the house. In my dining room, the previous owners removed the fireplace and boarded the opening up. The whole room is getting skimmed, before I start this A. Should I be installing and air vent in the breast front? (Chimney pot is cowled) B. Should I be treating the breast with something before the gypsum goes on? C. For bedroom open fireplaces that are intact but unused, to stop draught what is best to put up the flue? Many thanks
Yes I would vent the chimney breast , try a spinning cowl on top so air will be drawn up and not go down. I wouldn’t put gypsum based backing plaster on the chimney breast
@@dampsam thanks for the tips I’ll get that sorted. For my unused bedroom open fires? Would you recommend stuffing them with Rockwool to minimise heat loss? Does Rockwool breath well?
Sam we have this problem. Why do the walls look worse after rainfall. Our walls have got really bad after the recent rain. I had a roofer out today who was baffled as the chimney and flashing etc is fine??
Is there a way I can send you the pictures. So do you recommend having it replastered. I am having a camera inspection of the chimney and a sweep done on Tuesday. Thanks for your help.
2 questions. If a chimney has a liner to a cowl so effectively sealed should it still be vented? Could one vent the chimney to the subfloor to increase ventilation through subfloor ?
Sam, we had the chimney breast replastered after a leak had been fixed and that's when damp spots appeared on the wall, where the dabs are. Could it be because the dabs were wet the salts went on a wee trip through the dabs to new plasterboard to plaster; and halfway along they realised there was more moisture to bathe in, fromt the air in the very humid living room( someone doesn't like to open windows). In other words, maybe the salts have popped out because of the re-plaster and can be kept at bay by putting a waterproof paint on or like? Ive seen your other video for trying dryflex membrane on top of plaster, but I don't fully understand if I should be letting this wall breathe or block it up with wp paints.And I'm looking to avoid hacking off and putting membrane in if not needed. Thanks Sam for your answers, I'm indebted for your help.
Once the salts migrate to the surface they need to be isolated by either hacking off or using the dry flex method, it’s about creating a barrier so you could try your method first to see if it will work, I would use a liquid membrane which allows water vapour through rather than a blocker but it’s your call.
Just bought place. Could be same issue, but breasts removed. Had chimneys capped, but paint still peeling and smells like damp. Can I send you a photo, please?
Hi mate, is it possible to send you a picture of a problem I have with the chimney in a house I just bought. From your video I think it’s the same thing.
Great video, thanks a lot for this. Just moved into 1900s terrace house and noticed damp pitch on bottom corner of chimney breast on internal wall (ground floor, chimney stack removed and roof seems OK). Damp patch only in one corner and only after it rains heavy, then gradually dries leaving slight yellow tinge. Also section of wall on chimney all uneven and bobbly. 1.5m high, could it be rising damp alternatively? Thanks again
@@dampsam nice one, yes going to get the house checked out by an independent damp surveyor (just does assessment, no remedial work) which hopefully will be worthwhile in the long run. Would use yourself but don't think you're in S Wales!
@@dampsam had an independent survey done - they confirmed salt contamination on the chimney breast. They have suggested hacking off the gypsum plaster and re-rendering with lime, then using clay or lime-based paints. Is this the only solution? Lime plasterers are hard to come by, expensive as they specialise on listed buildings and I've read that lime plaster may look weird against the rest of the room that is gypsum...your thoughts much appreciated
Would you advise to use lime plaster after the damp proving has been done instead of sand and cement with salt inhibitors them skimming to avoid any gypsum
@@dampsam would you tend to do lime just on stone work then sand and cement on the brick work. Is hardwall a better material to use instead of bonding when preaping wall in your few
Hi Sam, Love the videos. We have a similar issue on our chimney breast which is now blocked off to a flat wall. It will be hacked off and tanked. My question is, does the air vent/air brick need to be sited on the breast front or can it be sited round the side to avoid the cosmetic problem of the vent being smack in the middle of the wall??? Cheers
What do you think about plastering a fire opening shut without putting a air vent in. I did this and its been fine for a year but my mate says I should have put a vent in. Will I get away with it or should I put one in?
Currently having this issue with my first property. Do you recommend any specific water proofing product and plaster? Also, can you put plaster straight onto the masonry or would it be better to fit plaster board?
Hi Sam I’ve had damp patches on my bedroom chimney breast which also drips water into the fireplace when raining, I’ve had all the lead work re done and had it capped at the top also storm dried the stack, can the damp patch cause by the salt sulphur, or what ever you call it also cause the dripping? Some advice would be great.
Contacted this company who quoted me £90 for a verbal assessment or £290 for a report. Next day! When I questioned why they would require payment to quote but would be themselves to rectify they became obnoxious saying trades quote for free and professionals charge. I said I needed to think and the guy replied 'I understand your concern and I would rather not do work with someone who is reluctant, people use us because they want a bespoke service and we don’t go looking for jobs to do like most companies' I found this very negative and wont be using
Hi Beverley, yes it was me you were talking to. We looked at your pictures and told you what we thought the issue was and you questions this with what you had been told by the free quote people you had already had round to look. I said we needed to do a site visit and told you the price we charge to which you wanted to question why we charge and the others were free. I explained that I had spent £1000s on educating myself on this subject and also done 1000s of hours studying and now my time costs money. I could see I was wasting my time and unfortunately at my age I now don’t suffer fools gladly so I ended the relationship. Regarding the damp though I hope you got it sorted and are now in a better place. Have a great weekend.
Could you imagine going to several homes a week for free? You need to pay a company for their professional time and assessment. You could also have them out for their professional opinion, and then hire someone else because it’s cheaper, and then the company that came out doesn’t get any money for their experience and time. I would never hire a company that doesn’t charge for their inspection and report. Most of the time someone that has free estimates will over charge and give you a horrible job. The best companies to hire are the ones that charge for the inspection and report, but if you hire them to do the work, they will deduct the inspection fee from the job. That means the company will always get paid for their time, no matter if you accept the job or not.
As a roofer that is very good information to have stumbled across, learnt a lot from this short video, Nice one 👍
Awesome 🙌
Sam, a very damp chimney breast in upstairs bedroom 10 years ago resulted in new chimney stack being built from attic upwards. Cracks in the clay liner showed up in the CCTV footage (3 i think) ? from a chimney fire they said. It was the painter who discovered that the stack was moving. Storm damage was also mentioned. It became an insurance claim. The chimney was relined with Eldfast Ceramic material and a flue connected to a multifuel stove was installed. A cowl was put on also. A few years later some paint bubbled on the chimney breast a bit like the initial problem, but not as bad. The chimney guy came back and inspected chimney, flashing and capping and said all was ok. Attic area also checked. He said the chimney could be "sweating" as he has seen this before and said nothing could be done! Well it gradually got worse and we just stripped repainted it as we hoped it was old damp. There are a few damp stains again on it now on the upper part, and middle of both side walls of chimney breast, and some paint is cracking, I put a dehumidifier in the room and about 300ms of water collected in 3 hours (dont know anything about dehumidifiers). Husband checked attic again and chimney breast dry there and around attic. House built in 1988. Im now wondering could it be a salt problem?I need to get to the bottom of this any advice greatly appreciated. thanks
Hope you can appreciate without a site visit it would be unprofessional to try diagnose this, I’d say instruct a competent qualified expert damp specialist surveyor to look at it.
This was excellent. We've friends who've just moved into a 1930s property and are suffering this exact issue (previous occupants had a coal fired burner).
Thanks for this! Having the same issue, very helpful.
You're welcome! Glad it’s helped
Very useful, thanks, The chimney breast in my victorian house has large patches of visible damp and 2 roofers have come round each claiming it's something completely different and offering wildly varying quotes to "fix" it. Now I know it's probably not a roofing issue
Thanks Dan. I have a salt issue on one of my internal walls so ill look into it following your advice.
No worries Yann 👍
I have a similar issue…they’ve quoted £2,400 to sort it!
The situation is similar to what you’re looking at here also!
That’s just ridiculous!!
I can’t really comment on prices there is a big variation up and down the country. Also if you look hard enough someone will always do the job cheaper. That may not be the best tho
Skill builder recommended dry rods on pointing course just above roof line and Rain shield painted on outside of chimney.
Not heard that one
Thanks! Saved a lot of headache.
Yup, had the roof repaired following the same issues and have now seen this 🤦🏻♂️
Ayup pal, I’ve renovated a bungalow built in 62 with brick and block it’s got
2 x layer of bitumastic damp course around the external walls.
I have blocked the old fireplace as the customer wanted a modern look inside.
At the same time we had to rip out the lounge concrete floor as it had cracked and dropped right where the original underfloor air vent pipe was leading under the lounge floor to the air brick for the fire on the exterior wall. This pipe had collapsed causing the floor to drop in the middle causing a jump, anyway long story short. We poured the new floor, removed old cast iron fire etc blocked the fire place up, had the whole place plastered, happy days. I’m just now after the rain we’ve had getting a small salty wet patch around a double socket on the wall behind the old fireplace chimney stack.
The chimney has not got a cap on it, it’s wide open, there is no air vent at all in the stack. What can I do??
My thoughts were… cap the chimney off with a raised cap to allow air flow at the top, then install an air brick at the back of the old fireplace to allow air flow at the bottom, will this suffice dya reckon?
It’s a tiny patch of damp as big as me thumb just next to the socket back box nowhere else but I don’t want it to get worse and I need to sort something bit more long term, help??
Sorry without seeing it my mind can’t take in just writing and give a credible diagnosis , it wouldn’t be fair guessing
Hi, this video is very helpful!! thank you!!!
I am a basement flat in a VIctorian 1880s home - to which my flat is below ground level - historically used for servants.
I have damp all on the base of my chimney breasts x 3 reaching at about 30-60cm high with zebra patches of salt residue.
I removed the plaster and bonding to expose the brick and can see there’s been a DPC installed.
Leak detection survey revealed uncapped chimneys. Could this be the cause? as i have damp all along the structural walls that are connected to a chimney and have plaster on top.
what to do next?? 😭😭😭 please help!
I’d love to help but without a site visit it would be irresponsible
when i took out an old fireplace. its crazy how much soot comes out big bag fulls of it
Hi Sam,
Great video.
I’ve noticed damp on the ceiling adjacent to my bedroom chimney breast this morning.
It happened about 6 months or so ago and nothing since, until last night.
It is about 2 foot wide and comes out about 6 inches. I think it has dripped down the breast.
Last Summer, the roofer put a couple of cowls on the chimney and I asked him if he could see any problem up there. He couldn’t.
Would I need to rake out the mortar in the breast joints in the attic and redo?
My house is 1924, so no felt, rosemary tiles, torched onto batons.
Any insight would be helpful.
Cheers,
Ps. I’ve subscribed 👍
Nigel, Swansea
Hi Nigel, it’s really hard to say without seeing it on site, the chimney does need venting and if salts are present these need isolating
Hi! Amazing video, do you recommend to close the chimney ?? I don’t like to use it anymore as it’s not environment friendly
Big thank you 🙏
You can but vent it top and bottom
thanks for the info !! but I think its mi chimney leaking...shame you aunt in Scarborough !
Send me some pictures and videos and I’ll comment on it for you, send to our WhatsApp 07973748566
Very useful video but a bit depressing as I’ve had multiple roofers and a roof surveyor claim to know the problem and how to fix it (including removing the stack altogether). Still I get damp when it rains after almost 2 years trying to resolve.
I’m now thinking it’s the salts you’re talking about but I don’t have any colour staining at all. Only damp towards the top of the breast / ceiling. Does the lack of yellow / brown stains rule out salts?
Thank you.
No salts manifest in lots of ways but mainly as damp patches. Some surveyors are better than others so I feel for you, iv found that there are common sense surveyors and paper surveyors one has done the job and got the qualifications the others learned parrot fashion just repeating what they have read with no relevance
@@dampsam thanks for that. Could I send you a photo just to get an opinion?
Hi Sam - two quick questions, if I have moisture coming through from old unused chimney (1936 house) onto the breast inside (dark yellow brown staining and some patches on ceiling near to it. Do you think fitting airbricks externally for air flow will fix? Also in your opinion, had a new roof fitted 2-3 years ago, there are no air vents, would this cause a change in roof space atmosphere which, is why we might be seeing the damp on the chim breast? Thanks mate Ade
Not sure without a site visit but roof vents and chimney stacks need venting adequately, the staining and salts would need isolating using one of the many systems
Loving your content, really helpful stuff. I need your advise. I have an Edwardian terrace, blessed with open fireplaces around the house. In my dining room, the previous owners removed the fireplace and boarded the opening up. The whole room is getting skimmed, before I start this
A. Should I be installing and air vent in the breast front? (Chimney pot is cowled)
B. Should I be treating the breast with something before the gypsum goes on?
C. For bedroom open fireplaces that are intact but unused, to stop draught what is best to put up the flue?
Many thanks
Yes I would vent the chimney breast , try a spinning cowl on top so air will be drawn up and not go down.
I wouldn’t put gypsum based backing plaster on the chimney breast
@@dampsam thanks for the tips I’ll get that sorted. For my unused bedroom open fires? Would you recommend stuffing them with Rockwool to minimise heat loss? Does Rockwool breath well?
Nice to see you back Great video mate 👍
Thank you 🙏
Sam we have this problem. Why do the walls look worse after rainfall. Our walls have got really bad after the recent rain. I had a roofer out today who was baffled as the chimney and flashing etc is fine??
It’s because sulphate salts are hygroscopic and absorb moisture from the air, when it rains the air is more humid
Is there a way I can send you the pictures. So do you recommend having it replastered. I am having a camera inspection of the chimney and a sweep done on Tuesday. Thanks for your help.
2 questions. If a chimney has a liner to a cowl so effectively sealed should it still be vented?
Could one vent the chimney to the subfloor to increase ventilation through subfloor ?
Condensation can still form inside if it’s not
Sam, we had the chimney breast replastered after a leak had been fixed and that's when damp spots appeared on the wall, where the dabs are. Could it be because the dabs were wet the salts went on a wee trip through the dabs to new plasterboard to plaster; and halfway along they realised there was more moisture to bathe in, fromt the air in the very humid living room( someone doesn't like to open windows). In other words, maybe the salts have popped out because of the re-plaster and can be kept at bay by putting a waterproof paint on or like? Ive seen your other video for trying dryflex membrane on top of plaster, but I don't fully understand if I should be letting this wall breathe or block it up with wp paints.And I'm looking to avoid hacking off and putting membrane in if not needed. Thanks Sam for your answers, I'm indebted for your help.
Once the salts migrate to the surface they need to be isolated by either hacking off or using the dry flex method, it’s about creating a barrier so you could try your method first to see if it will work, I would use a liquid membrane which allows water vapour through rather than a blocker but it’s your call.
@@dampsam Thanks Simon, appreciate it! It seems the Dryflex is more popular these days as Safeguard are out of stock !
@@dampsam thanks again Sam! Will see how we go. Your videos make damp interesting! That's a huge achievement... well done!
Excellent video.
Just bought place. Could be same issue, but breasts removed. Had chimneys capped, but paint still peeling and smells like damp. Can I send you a photo, please?
Yes, send it to our WhatsApp
Hi mate, is it possible to send you a picture of a problem I have with the chimney in a house I just bought. From your video I think it’s the same thing.
Yes what’s app is at 07973748566
Is it to better to cap the chimney pot with c-cap 😊
Great video, thanks a lot for this. Just moved into 1900s terrace house and noticed damp pitch on bottom corner of chimney breast on internal wall (ground floor, chimney stack removed and roof seems OK). Damp patch only in one corner and only after it rains heavy, then gradually dries leaving slight yellow tinge. Also section of wall on chimney all uneven and bobbly. 1.5m high, could it be rising damp alternatively? Thanks again
Sounds like a combination of condensation and some salt contamination, I’d get it checked by a qualified person
@@dampsam nice one, yes going to get the house checked out by an independent damp surveyor (just does assessment, no remedial work) which hopefully will be worthwhile in the long run. Would use yourself but don't think you're in S Wales!
@@dampsam had an independent survey done - they confirmed salt contamination on the chimney breast. They have suggested hacking off the gypsum plaster and re-rendering with lime, then using clay or lime-based paints. Is this the only solution? Lime plasterers are hard to come by, expensive as they specialise on listed buildings and I've read that lime plaster may look weird against the rest of the room that is gypsum...your thoughts much appreciated
Shouldn't you be using lime plaster rather than gypsum?
No, Watch the videos iv done on the product
Would you advise to use lime plaster after the damp proving has been done instead of sand and cement with salt inhibitors them skimming to avoid any gypsum
It would depend on the job and type of wall. All the systems work if done correctly, some are more suited to certain types of masonry though.
@@dampsam would you tend to do lime just on stone work then sand and cement on the brick work. Is hardwall a better material to use instead of bonding when preaping wall in your few
Hi Sam, Love the videos. We have a similar issue on our chimney breast which is now blocked off to a flat wall. It will be hacked off and tanked. My question is, does the air vent/air brick need to be sited on the breast front or can it be sited round the side to avoid the cosmetic problem of the vent being smack in the middle of the wall??? Cheers
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
Have you got the link of the video?
What do you think about plastering a fire opening shut without putting a air vent in. I did this and its been fine for a year but my mate says I should have put a vent in. Will I get away with it or should I put one in?
Great Videos. I have an issue that is the carbon copy of this (I think 🤔)
Thank you, I hope the video helped you in some way
Can removing the chimney breaast all together do the trickk?
Yes but there will be a line of soot with sulphates in that need isolating, also if any of the stack is left at all it will need venting for air flow.
Only products you should be putting near these old properties is lime
Nothing wrong with lime but we instal affordable modern systems that work quickly
Currently having this issue with my first property. Do you recommend any specific water proofing product and plaster? Also, can you put plaster straight onto the masonry or would it be better to fit plaster board?
There are a few waterproof system out there I like NatCem35 but it’s hard to use. It’s what your comfortable with, do your research on them
i've got a small vent at bottom of my chimney breast, no damp at all would this help dry out your issue your having over time
Hi Stuart, always vent a chimney breast
Hi Sam
I’ve had damp patches on my bedroom chimney breast which also drips water into the fireplace when raining, I’ve had all the lead work re done and had it capped at the top also storm dried the stack, can the damp patch cause by the salt sulphur, or what ever you call it also cause the dripping?
Some advice would be great.
Yes it can
Contacted this company who quoted me £90 for a verbal assessment or £290 for a report. Next day! When I questioned why they would require payment to quote but would be themselves to rectify they became obnoxious saying trades quote for free and professionals charge. I said I needed to think and the guy replied 'I understand your concern and I would rather not do work with someone who is reluctant, people use us because they want a bespoke service and we don’t go looking for jobs to do like most companies' I found this very negative and wont be using
Hi Beverley, yes it was me you were talking to. We looked at your pictures and told you what we thought the issue was and you questions this with what you had been told by the free quote people you had already had round to look. I said we needed to do a site visit and told you the price we charge to which you wanted to question why we charge and the others were free. I explained that I had spent £1000s on educating myself on this subject and also done 1000s of hours studying and now my time costs money. I could see I was wasting my time and unfortunately at my age I now don’t suffer fools gladly so I ended the relationship.
Regarding the damp though I hope you got it sorted and are now in a better place. Have a great weekend.
Could you imagine going to several homes a week for free? You need to pay a company for their professional time and assessment. You could also have them out for their professional opinion, and then hire someone else because it’s cheaper, and then the company that came out doesn’t get any money for their experience and time.
I would never hire a company that doesn’t charge for their inspection and report. Most of the time someone that has free estimates will over charge and give you a horrible job.
The best companies to hire are the ones that charge for the inspection and report, but if you hire them to do the work, they will deduct the inspection fee from the job. That means the company will always get paid for their time, no matter if you accept the job or not.
Time is money… unfortunately people use building companies as free advice and free quote services. Glad the industry is catching on
You may have just saved me 2k 😁
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
😊👍