Thanks for the video and the explanation also with my Mustang (4.0 V6) the oil pump problem has been solved. Tap of the chain tensioners when the engine is cold and occasionally the oil light comes on. The plunger of the oil pump had come out 2 mm above the seat. The gap between the suction tube and the oil pump was clearly visible even before the suction tube was removed. The suction tube was even warped. With a little creativity and some washers/rings, the problem is solved for free. It took me about 6 hours (I don't have a bridge at my disposal) and the starter motor also had to come off to get to the last bolts of the top oil pan.
So far ive had 2 shops diagnose a spun bearing... I told them pick up tube is simply cracked!!!! Thank you so much for the vid. Ill fix my sons this weekend. Ive had spun bearings... This is not a spun bearing.
DOUG, WHAT A GREAT DAD YOU ARE!! THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES,I SEE THIS IN MY NEAR FUTURE.AND OF COURSE ITS 30 DEGREES AND HOLIDAYS TO BOOT. BUT I LEARNED LONG AGO THE THREE MOST VALUABLE THINGS IN LIFE ARE 1)TIME 2) INFORMATION AND NOT TO LEAVE OUT 3) MONEY. DOESN'T MATTER WHO YOU ARE OR WHERE YOU'RE GOING OR WHERE YOU'RE FROM WE ALL HAVE THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME. IT IS LEFT NOW TO INFORMATION AND MONEY. THE VALUE OF THESE THREE ITEMS IS FLUID AND CAN CHANGE ACCORDING TO MILLIONS OF VARIABLES!. ENOUGH OF MY SOAPBOX PONTIFICATING!! THANKS FOR THIS VERY VALUABLE INFORMATION!!
I completely agree which is why I frequently try to save time and money by just investing a little bit of time to figure out what’s going on before I start trying to pretend I can fix something. I’ve benefited from RUclips so many times and this seems like a very simple way to return some of the benefit I’ve received in the past. I hope you find this video has helped you save time and money as well and I’m happy to report that my son’s Mustang is still doing just fine. Problem truly fixed
Thank you for the info, I was having the same issue but mine ended up being a crack in the oil pump housing where it mounts to the block. Had to be improper installation from the last guy that was in there.
Thank you for your GREAT video. My 2009 v6 Mustang is at the service, they just replaced everyhing in engine, and low oil pressure still exist when engine gets warm, and it is idle. Just sent them your video, and I am sure issue will be same, even new oil pump is faulty by default. Fingers crossed. Will let you know the results ;) keep up the great work!
@@Woody10719 Solution was. Replace whole engine :) previous owner just cooked the engine using it without coolant :( So it was an issue with the engine itself. Thank you for your great video
Hi! So did u replace the timing chain or just a pump? Can you give the links please what did u order. I have exactly what you're saying. My 2006 4.0L Mustang sounds like an old tractor and the warming oil pressure icon sometimes on
Sadly to replace the timing components, you will need to pull the engine, one of the timing chains is in the back of the of the engine so there is no room to work on it while the engine is still in the car.
We ended up pulling the motor and replacing all the timing belt tensioners. While we had it out, new clutch and some sweet stainless short headers. I do not have the part numbers, it was a while ago
My oil light didn’t turn on but I’ve been hearing tics from the engine bay my mechanic told me ifcould my timing chain or my oil pump after I saw this video ima go fix it before it gets any worse
It took a long time for us to finally decide to fix this thing and it got worse consistently he got to the point where I really wasn’t sure if he would come back home from his travels. At first it’s a young kid driving a car you know he’s gonna record so you don’t wanna type a bunch of time fixing it but he had earned his right, he had taking good care of the car so I started to drill down until we figured out what was going on. It really truly sounded like a tractor running or maybe a diesel engine
Thank you for this, I have a oil pressure problem to begin with but now I have a bad ticking under Valve cover, maybe I have two problems?? I will do one at a time and start with oil pump
hey doug, wondering what i think about this: my 2001 4.0l ranger with 4x4 just started giving me a problem. got an oil change about 200-300 miles ago. last week i started it and got check gauge with no oil pressure. sounded fine. ran for like two minutes turned off and turned back on oil pressure was right back. ran great drove perfect for three days. let it sit for two days and go to start today with no oil pressure again. sounds fine runs fine. stop running after about 30 seconds and restart but now it's sputtering. sounds like all of the cylinders were out of sync. running terrible really really bad tachometer jumping around 700rpm. i'm afraid to restart. starts right up but sounds like the cylinders are barely firing all at the wrong times. purchased truck used about 2000-3000 miles ago. any info greatly appreciated
Sounds pretty serious. I wasn’t concern until you said it’s running badly. It could all be in the electronics but if I were you, I’d do more research before anything else. I wish I could be of more help but the last thing I ever want to do is take it somewhere I don’t know enough about to fix something I don’t know enough about. I want to trust the people I work with, which is rare, or I want to understand the problem well enough to call B.S. if they try to sell me something I don’t need. Good Luck and God Bless!
Thank you for your video! Before you fixed the oil pickup to oil pump gap problem, was the timing chain rattle rpm dependent? At idle (low oil pressure), the timing chain rattles and above idle (higher oil pressure) the rattle goes away? How do you differentiate an Oil Pickup Oil Pump Gap problem from Bad Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts?
sorry that it’s taking me so long to reply. I’m not a social influencer ha ha I actually have a job and do a lot of work but I do care enough to take the time to answer I wish I don’t sooner. I will say that my son’s car the timing chain guides were broken made out of plastic that’s not a terribly difficult fix if you know how to fix cars but it does take some time and some talent. There should be videos about that as well on RUclips. As far as differentiating between the two in the sounds and what it is what it is I would suggest fixing the things of the cheapest and the less least complicated first as long as there is some merit to the repair it’s probably a worthwhile investment because the oil pump problem is very time consuming. That being said the plastic housing on the oil pump seems like a stupid idea to begin with especially the way they have a design with those collars they can easily pull out. You could possibly do some research and figure out if they made a correction to that problem at some point in time. Perhaps your car is not affected by that but if you care about the car and you can’t verify that it’s already been a corrected issue then it will certainly be an issue in the future. Possibly a very expensive one.
I’m having the rattle still in my 4.6 gt I replaced all of timing components guides tensioners cam phasers vvt solenoids and noise is till there, I’m thinking it’s my oil pump I’m not sure I heard without enough oil pressure there’s a rattle but plss help
No the way that we approached it was just to lift the motor up, we unbolted it from the motor mounts and removed the transmission exhaust and then raise the engine up enough to do the work basically to get the pan off. This eliminated removing a lot more stuff. It was a long time ago but I think I basically just had a bottle jack underneath the motor strategically located at strong points. As I recall I think I had a very small Jack or possibly a porter power with the seperator jaws lifting one side and answer so I’m putting a block in there and then go on the other side and lifting up an inch or two and put a block in there and just work my way up a little by little until we can get the pan off. The pan was a pain in the ass and above the pain was like another pan. I think we had a lifted about 3 inches. Be careful you don’t smash anything on the back of the motor into the firewall why are you using pressure to lift the motor it may seem obvious but it It’s easy to overlook little things like that in the middle of pulling a motor out
The best remedy is a V8 swap lol. I hate this engine. Its trash! V8 swapped my sport fail. Far better and piece in mind knowing your engine isn't a time bomb
I'm not sure if the person who published this is still copying comments for this. Just have a question about this. What, when was the noise noticeable? I have an 05 4.0 and for the most part it's a pretty quiet engine for 175,xxx miles on it. However recently after car gets up to operating temperature I hear a "Knock" at 850-1300 RPM but goes away after 1300. Some power loss. Does not like hotter days. Can you help steer me in right direction? I love my car, it's in pretty good shape. It's my daily driver.
If I had to guess I’d say this is not your problem and I would look elsewhere. This was a lot more persistent they didn’t come and go in a small window like that
Hey i have a 05 v6 mustang sounds like a tractor still runs strong and normal but the noise just won’t go away could this be the problem needs advice thanks ?
Hard to be sure but the noises kept getting worse for us over the course of a year. The tractor noise was more about lack of lubrication to the top of the motor. The next summer there was a rattle that using a cheap stethoscope from harbor freight I could clearly hear it was an isolated noise behind the water pump and that turned out to be the plastic cassette that is part of the timing chain guide system behind the water pump. A pain to replace. There are videos for that out there.
So I have one of these 4.0 mustang and I've noticed at high rpm these a clinking noise. Is this oil pump issue the problem? I don't get a low oil pressure light though. Infact this is my second 4.0 mustang and both have made this clinking noise at high rpm.
I believe that’s the problem that you’re hearing the thing about it is slowly it gets worse and more persistent so why you wanna ignore it eventually become something you have to fix. At least I had to.
Did the mustang sputter bad due to needing the oil pump?? And by any chance did you have any engine codes on? I have a 2010 4.0 mustang and it sputtering like crazy, has 3 codes p0301 p0106 & p1336 “help”
i have no rattle or noises checked oil level @ cool oil pressure light engages sporadically when driving even on cold nights starting w/ the $20 sensor before dealing with more nonsense haha thanks for the video i have it saved in case i need it
So I’m currently trying to fix this issue rn and the clicks sound you were hearing was it bc of this issue as well? Or was it the issue with the chains that you had the pull the engine to replace?
Thanks for destroying my car! Sure, lift the engine up! You forgot to tell us to dismantle the shifter! Pushing it up, did some damage! Now the shifter won’t come out of park! 😡
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/af0phKxitX8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video and the explanation also with my Mustang (4.0 V6) the oil pump problem has been solved.
Tap of the chain tensioners when the engine is cold and occasionally the oil light comes on.
The plunger of the oil pump had come out 2 mm above the seat. The gap between the suction tube and the oil pump was clearly visible even before the suction tube was removed. The suction tube was even warped.
With a little creativity and some washers/rings, the problem is solved for free.
It took me about 6 hours (I don't have a bridge at my disposal) and the starter motor also had to come off to get to the last bolts of the top oil pan.
So far ive had 2 shops diagnose a spun bearing... I told them pick up tube is simply cracked!!!! Thank you so much for the vid. Ill fix my sons this weekend. Ive had spun bearings... This is not a spun bearing.
Success?
I don't think you realize how much I appreciate your video!! Thank you so much for more ideas
DOUG,
WHAT A GREAT DAD YOU ARE!!
THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES,I SEE THIS IN MY NEAR FUTURE.AND OF COURSE ITS 30 DEGREES AND HOLIDAYS TO BOOT. BUT I LEARNED LONG AGO THE THREE MOST VALUABLE THINGS IN LIFE ARE
1)TIME
2) INFORMATION AND NOT TO LEAVE OUT
3) MONEY.
DOESN'T MATTER WHO YOU ARE OR WHERE YOU'RE GOING OR WHERE YOU'RE FROM WE ALL HAVE THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME.
IT IS LEFT NOW TO INFORMATION AND MONEY. THE VALUE OF THESE THREE ITEMS IS FLUID AND CAN CHANGE ACCORDING TO MILLIONS OF VARIABLES!.
ENOUGH OF MY SOAPBOX PONTIFICATING!! THANKS FOR THIS VERY VALUABLE INFORMATION!!
I completely agree which is why I frequently try to save time and money by just investing a little bit of time to figure out what’s going on before I start trying to pretend I can fix something. I’ve benefited from RUclips so many times and this seems like a very simple way to return some of the benefit I’ve received in the past. I hope you find this video has helped you save time and money as well and I’m happy to report that my son’s Mustang is still doing just fine. Problem truly fixed
I love it! You’re such a great dad! Thanks for the information.
Thank you for the info, I was having the same issue but mine ended up being a crack in the oil pump housing where it mounts to the block. Had to be improper installation from the last guy that was in there.
Thank you for your GREAT video. My 2009 v6 Mustang is at the service, they just replaced everyhing in engine, and low oil pressure still exist when engine gets warm, and it is idle. Just sent them your video, and I am sure issue will be same, even new oil pump is faulty by default. Fingers crossed. Will let you know the results ;) keep up the great work!
So what were the results?
Hey let us know
@@Woody10719 Solution was. Replace whole engine :) previous owner just cooked the engine using it without coolant :( So it was an issue with the engine itself. Thank you for your great video
What does removing the oil pans have to do with the drive shaft?
1:15 hydraulic lash adjusters
Hi! So did u replace the timing chain or just a pump? Can you give the links please what did u order.
I have exactly what you're saying. My 2006 4.0L Mustang sounds like an old tractor and the warming oil pressure icon sometimes on
Sadly to replace the timing components, you will need to pull the engine, one of the timing chains is in the back of the of the engine so there is no room to work on it while the engine is still in the car.
We ended up pulling the motor and replacing all the timing belt tensioners. While we had it out, new clutch and some sweet stainless short headers. I do not have the part numbers, it was a while ago
My oil light didn’t turn on but I’ve been hearing tics from the engine bay my mechanic told me ifcould my timing chain or my oil pump after I saw this video ima go fix it before it gets any worse
It took a long time for us to finally decide to fix this thing and it got worse consistently he got to the point where I really wasn’t sure if he would come back home from his travels. At first it’s a young kid driving a car you know he’s gonna record so you don’t wanna type a bunch of time fixing it but he had earned his right, he had taking good care of the car so I started to drill down until we figured out what was going on. It really truly sounded like a tractor running or maybe a diesel engine
Thank you for this, I have a oil pressure problem to begin with but now I have a bad ticking under Valve cover, maybe I have two problems?? I will do one at a time and start with oil pump
Was it the lifter or was it the oil pump, just wondering because I’m having this issue now
Thanks for the video sir.
My pleasure
Maybe a stupid question - but is this only an issue with the 6 cylinder Mustang or also with the V8 in the GT (of the same model years)?
Dang... 4.6 gts have same issue as i drive one daily sounds like a cat diesle running on ether when oil pressure drops
Same here with my 2008 GT. Did you ever determine if this was the cause?
Can you do my mustang 06 having same issue
Thanks for the invitation. I think one time was enough for me
To my knowledge just the v6 but maybe research it the v8 uses plastic housing as well
hey doug, wondering what i think about this: my 2001 4.0l ranger with 4x4 just started giving me a problem. got an oil change about 200-300 miles ago. last week i started it and got check gauge with no oil pressure. sounded fine. ran for like two minutes turned off and turned back on oil pressure was right back. ran great drove perfect for three days. let it sit for two days and go to start today with no oil pressure again. sounds fine runs fine. stop running after about 30 seconds and restart but now it's sputtering. sounds like all of the cylinders were out of sync. running terrible really really bad tachometer jumping around 700rpm. i'm afraid to restart. starts right up but sounds like the cylinders are barely firing all at the wrong times. purchased truck used about 2000-3000 miles ago. any info greatly appreciated
Sounds pretty serious. I wasn’t concern until you said it’s running badly. It could all be in the electronics but if I were you, I’d do more research before anything else. I wish I could be of more help but the last thing I ever want to do is take it somewhere I don’t know enough about to fix something I don’t know enough about. I want to trust the people I work with, which is rare, or I want to understand the problem well enough to call B.S. if they try to sell me something I don’t need. Good Luck and God Bless!
Thank you for your video! Before you fixed the oil pickup to oil pump gap problem, was the timing chain rattle rpm dependent? At idle (low oil pressure), the timing chain rattles and above idle (higher oil pressure) the rattle goes away? How do you differentiate an Oil Pickup Oil Pump Gap problem from Bad Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts?
sorry that it’s taking me so long to reply. I’m not a social influencer ha ha I actually have a job and do a lot of work but I do care enough to take the time to answer I wish I don’t sooner. I will say that my son’s car the timing chain guides were broken made out of plastic that’s not a terribly difficult fix if you know how to fix cars but it does take some time and some talent. There should be videos about that as well on RUclips. As far as differentiating between the two in the sounds and what it is what it is I would suggest fixing the things of the cheapest and the less least complicated first as long as there is some merit to the repair it’s probably a worthwhile investment because the oil pump problem is very time consuming. That being said the plastic housing on the oil pump seems like a stupid idea to begin with especially the way they have a design with those collars they can easily pull out. You could possibly do some research and figure out if they made a correction to that problem at some point in time. Perhaps your car is not affected by that but if you care about the car and you can’t verify that it’s already been a corrected issue then it will certainly be an issue in the future. Possibly a very expensive one.
Also I really don’t think the Tensioners were even ever a problem
I’m having the rattle still in my 4.6 gt I replaced all of timing components guides tensioners cam phasers vvt solenoids and noise is till there, I’m thinking it’s my oil pump I’m not sure I heard without enough oil pressure there’s a rattle but plss help
thank you for this!!!
you didn't have to drop the K member and tie rod to get the pan off?
No the way that we approached it was just to lift the motor up, we unbolted it from the motor mounts and removed the transmission exhaust and then raise the engine up enough to do the work basically to get the pan off. This eliminated removing a lot more stuff. It was a long time ago but I think I basically just had a bottle jack underneath the motor strategically located at strong points. As I recall I think I had a very small Jack or possibly a porter power with the seperator jaws lifting one side and answer so I’m putting a block in there and then go on the other side and lifting up an inch or two and put a block in there and just work my way up a little by little until we can get the pan off. The pan was a pain in the ass and above the pain was like another pan. I think we had a lifted about 3 inches. Be careful you don’t smash anything on the back of the motor into the firewall why are you using pressure to lift the motor it may seem obvious but it It’s easy to overlook little things like that in the middle of pulling a motor out
The best remedy is a V8 swap lol. I hate this engine. Its trash! V8 swapped my sport fail. Far better and piece in mind knowing your engine isn't a time bomb
I've been contemplating the same exact thing! Tempted to buy a parts car V8.
Mine has 246k on it and just failed I’d say it’s reliable enough
I'm not sure if the person who published this is still copying comments for this. Just have a question about this. What, when was the noise noticeable? I have an 05 4.0 and for the most part it's a pretty quiet engine for 175,xxx miles on it. However recently after car gets up to operating temperature I hear a "Knock" at 850-1300 RPM but goes away after 1300. Some power loss. Does not like hotter days. Can you help steer me in right direction? I love my car, it's in pretty good shape. It's my daily driver.
If I had to guess I’d say this is not your problem and I would look elsewhere. This was a lot more persistent they didn’t come and go in a small window like that
Hey i have a 05 v6 mustang sounds like a tractor still runs strong and normal but the noise just won’t go away could this be the problem needs advice thanks ?
Hard to be sure but the noises kept getting worse for us over the course of a year. The tractor noise was more about lack of lubrication to the top of the motor. The next summer there was a rattle that using a cheap stethoscope from harbor freight I could clearly hear it was an isolated noise behind the water pump and that turned out to be the plastic cassette that is part of the timing chain guide system behind the water pump. A pain to replace. There are videos for that out there.
You have to jack up both sides of the engine or just one side?
Yes both sides
So I have one of these 4.0 mustang and I've noticed at high rpm these a clinking noise. Is this oil pump issue the problem? I don't get a low oil pressure light though. Infact this is my second 4.0 mustang and both have made this clinking noise at high rpm.
I believe that’s the problem that you’re hearing the thing about it is slowly it gets worse and more persistent so why you wanna ignore it eventually become something you have to fix. At least I had to.
Did the mustang sputter bad due to needing the oil pump?? And by any chance did you have any engine codes on? I have a 2010 4.0 mustang and it sputtering like crazy, has 3 codes p0301 p0106 & p1336 “help”
I really don't remember the codes but yes there were some. Car still runs great.
i have no rattle or noises
checked oil level @ cool
oil pressure light engages sporadically when driving even on cold nights
starting w/ the $20 sensor before dealing with more nonsense haha
thanks for the video i have it saved in case i need it
So I’m currently trying to fix this issue rn and the clicks sound you were hearing was it bc of this issue as well? Or was it the issue with the chains that you had the pull the engine to replace?
did you end up finding what it was
Thanks for destroying my car! Sure, lift the engine up! You forgot to tell us to dismantle the shifter! Pushing it up, did some damage! Now the shifter won’t come out of park! 😡
that’s jus common sense man
Get to the point