Been catching up on all your recent fixes & great work all round mate. Must be well satisfied with your work of bringing those auld girls back to life, especially the age of them. Well done 👍
Well done. Unfortunately, superglue is only a temporary measure as it tends to not bond well with the nylon sleeves and will eventually come away again, or the sleeve will crack elsewhere.
I’ve had 3 of these Bachmann V1/3 and sold them all on. The nylon axles are hopeless. Bachmann charge £10 for replacements, but even then the fiddly valve gear chassis attachments are so easy to break. They look nice, but put me off Bachmann completely.
I'm curious about why quartering would affect a motor-driven model. On a real steam locomotive where the rods drive the wheels, I thought the point of quartering was to avoid the risk of the locomotive stopping with one piston essentially top dead centre and the other bottom dead centre and being unable to get going again. On a model locomotive, where the wheels are driving the rods, what difference would it make? (Other than visual, of course.)
It's down to the fact that these models are models of full size locomotives. Since a full size locomotive would have their wheels quartered when a manufacturer makes a model they'd quarter the wheels too, modelling the prototype. As such, when the quartering fails it leads to running issues. You could reasonably design a model loco to not have quartered wheels but it might look a little strange.
@@beeble2003 well that's the thing. Many locomotives I've seen have one actual drive wheel. The motor will turn gears leading to say the rear axle. That means that the front and middle axles rely on the connecting rods of the locomotive to turn them. Therefore, if the quartering is out it could cause the wheels to lock up and not turn properly. There's a 00Bill video where you can see a bad quartering issue in a tender driven schools class, and you can imagine what might happen if you try to force those wheels to turn. You could damage the motor or the connecting rods or something else.
i had two of these locos and suddenly they became tetchy.. i asked a shop to repair one and they did but pretty soon the valve gear fouled up resulting in valve gear and wheels being twisted up.. i think the primary fault was the valve gear, bent? sad.. i will replace it one day..
Please can you help. Although I have owned a bus pass for a good time now I have never owned a train set, but you prompted me to buy an engine. I brought a GWR 0 6 0 Pannier from eBay. It didn't work but following you instructions if does runs very quietly pulling three carriages on 9v battery. It still has one problem I would like to eliminate. The plastic moulding that stops the wheels falling out is broken, the front clips are broken off. I rang up a large spares supplier and they told me the engine was mage forty years ago and they don't carry spars that go that far back. My engine no is 2783 but my local train shop has a Hornby train set on the shelf engine no 2733 looks to be the same. Can you point me at someone who may be able to help me get the part I need.
The model number of your loco (I believe) is R165. The loco number is often not much help. Searching by the hornby model number might make things easier on sites. As the model is pretty old, you may have more luck buying another old non-runner, and swapping parts.
If you're still looking for one, I spotted a Bachmann V3 for sale at the train show I'm attending. Gentleman selling it says it runs and is asking $125 U.S. dollars (approximately 90.5 lbs sterling). If you're interested, let me know.
By the way, "lbs" is only ever used for pounds weight. Not that you have much choice when you don't have a UK keyboard so you can't type £. Using the currency code GBP is maybe the better option; sometimes people use "L" but it looks kinda weird.
I just have too much on to consider different scales at the moment. I love N gauge but have never worked on any. Not saying never but just not at the moment.
Transformed from a loco that might have been for the scrapyard, to a smooth runner, ready for many more years running. Very nice to see it rescued.
Brilliant Bill. I think we should call you "Sherlock" well deduced and perfectly rectified. Well done
Hi Bill. The part which was bent is called the slidebar.
hi great video. i remember seeing these locos in the Harrow model shop back in the 90s
Been catching up on all your recent fixes & great work all round mate. Must be well satisfied with your work of bringing those auld girls back to life, especially the age of them. Well done 👍
Another master class Bill on new model you have never worked on.
Well done. Unfortunately, superglue is only a temporary measure as it tends to not bond well with the nylon sleeves and will eventually come away again, or the sleeve will crack elsewhere.
Agree with Alan these are renowned for splitting those plastic joiners as you said new set ideally.
Great video.
More handy tips and hints about servicing.
It may be a Black BR Loco but they all have their individual attraction. A fine lookin thing running round your track. Top Job as usual 🥇👍🏻
Hi Bill. I have one of these in L.N.E.R. green so if you keep your eye open you might find one on ebay. Regards.
Job well done Bill. Thanks for sharing :)
Probably 1993 ish . I think I have the identical one . Well done again !
Another brilliant job Bill wish I had the confidence to strip down a loco that I had never seen before like you do well done
Well repaired Bill 😎
I’ve had 3 of these Bachmann V1/3 and sold them all on. The nylon axles are hopeless. Bachmann charge £10 for replacements, but even then the fiddly valve gear chassis attachments are so easy to break. They look nice, but put me off Bachmann completely.
Another fine job
Good video bill 😁👍
I'm curious about why quartering would affect a motor-driven model. On a real steam locomotive where the rods drive the wheels, I thought the point of quartering was to avoid the risk of the locomotive stopping with one piston essentially top dead centre and the other bottom dead centre and being unable to get going again. On a model locomotive, where the wheels are driving the rods, what difference would it make? (Other than visual, of course.)
It's down to the fact that these models are models of full size locomotives. Since a full size locomotive would have their wheels quartered when a manufacturer makes a model they'd quarter the wheels too, modelling the prototype. As such, when the quartering fails it leads to running issues. You could reasonably design a model loco to not have quartered wheels but it might look a little strange.
@@TheAntisocialTrain Why would non-quartered wheels cause running issues?
@@beeble2003 well that's the thing. Many locomotives I've seen have one actual drive wheel. The motor will turn gears leading to say the rear axle. That means that the front and middle axles rely on the connecting rods of the locomotive to turn them. Therefore, if the quartering is out it could cause the wheels to lock up and not turn properly. There's a 00Bill video where you can see a bad quartering issue in a tender driven schools class, and you can imagine what might happen if you try to force those wheels to turn. You could damage the motor or the connecting rods or something else.
i had two of these locos and suddenly they became tetchy.. i asked a shop to repair one and they did but pretty soon the valve gear fouled up resulting in valve gear and wheels being twisted up.. i think the primary fault was the valve gear, bent? sad.. i will replace it one day..
My V2 is jammed solid by the mechanism on pistons ??
I think it's called the slidebar.
I think you're right. 👍
Nice fix
Please can you help. Although I have owned a bus pass for a good time now I have never owned a train set, but you prompted me to buy an engine. I brought a GWR 0 6 0 Pannier from eBay. It didn't work but following you instructions if does runs very quietly pulling three carriages on 9v battery. It still has one problem I would like to eliminate. The plastic moulding that stops the wheels falling out is broken, the front clips are broken off. I rang up a large spares supplier and they told me the engine was mage forty years ago and they don't carry spars that go that far back. My engine no is 2783 but my local train shop has a Hornby train set on the shelf engine no 2733 looks to be the same. Can you point me at someone who may be able to help me get the part I need.
The model number of your loco (I believe) is R165. The loco number is often not much help. Searching by the hornby model number might make things easier on sites. As the model is pretty old, you may have more luck buying another old non-runner, and swapping parts.
Cranks should be at 120 degrees, it is a 3 cylinder locomotive.
If you're still looking for one, I spotted a Bachmann V3 for sale at the train show I'm attending. Gentleman selling it says it runs and is asking $125 U.S. dollars (approximately 90.5 lbs sterling). If you're interested, let me know.
By the way, "lbs" is only ever used for pounds weight. Not that you have much choice when you don't have a UK keyboard so you can't type £. Using the currency code GBP is maybe the better option; sometimes people use "L" but it looks kinda weird.
Do you repair N guage by any chance?
I just have too much on to consider different scales at the moment. I love N gauge but have never worked on any. Not saying never but just not at the moment.
@@oobill Thanks Bill. I shall have a bash at it myself. I expect you are very much in demand! Take care and keep making the videos for us to enjoy.