At 100k it would also be wise to check and replace the ICPS and ECPS Intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors if needed. Essentially, making sure your emissions system works properly will make your life a lot easier.
Thanks for this. I have 113k miles on my Z4 2.5i. I replaced the expansion tank a year ago and the radiator just recently. Had a leaky valve cover gasket and had it replaced along with a new valve cover. All this stuff is plastic and gets brittle. I just did not want to deal with a split or crack later with the valve cover. I had an alternator idler and tensioner replaced as well and new serpentine belt and A/C belt. The M54 is a solid engine if maintained. Oh had brake fluid flushed and replaced. Lot of moisture in the system. I don't want rusting brake lines. I am the 3rd owner of the car so I doubt any of the PM work was done. I have heard about the DISA. Spooky stuff there. I did not know about the VANOS or fan clutch tip.
one more thing! VERY often overlooked and rarely mentioned: 🤓 The hydraulic lifters OFTEN clog and cause all kinds of engine fault codes, NONE of these codes actually mention to check the hydraulic lifters, they always "blame" another part. hence you end up replacing alot of parts which are still good without getting to the root cause. Try HYDRAULIC LIFTER CLEANING FLUID first, this stuff is meant to do just that, and it often really works! this is the simplest fix for your M54 engine, and you can't really hurt the engine with cleaner lifters, even if there is another fault as well.
Very good video. I have an M54 on 96k miles and have just renewed oil seals for valve cover and oil filter housing and at the same time renewed belts and thermostat. But you have mentioned numerous other things to keep an eye on so that is useful info. One thing you did not speak about but is a major risk with these cars is cylinder head cracking. This can happen very easily, not just when the expansion tank splits but if there is any air in the system. Fortunately there are products out today that can deal with this without removing the head but if it gets too bad you will need a new cylinder head. FYI, my BMW is a 2003 e39 and a work colleague has just scrapped an identical model after it developed multiple problems. But, while living with severe oil leaks, he did manage to get 385k miles out of the engine with little more maintenance than oil changes, which is quite impressive. Incidentally, for the last 100k miles he didn't even bother to change the oil because he was adding 2 quarts every 500 miles! Appreciate the fact that you are responding to people's questions in this blog. Hopefully this will get you a lot of subscribers. Thanks.
Timely video, Dean. My Expansion Tank and one hose started leaking on my "02. At 62K no less. I know all of these problems have happened on my car already, or will happen, on the way to 100K miles. Just the nature of the beast. Looking forward to Part II of this video. Thanks for doing these two videos for us M54 owners.
For people with a BMW Z4 M54 Disregard the first one. The fan clutch bearing. Second one is the thermostat/water pump. Third one is the disa valve. Fourth one is the valve cover. Fifth one is the dual/double vanoss systems. Sixth one is the coolant resivoir. Seventh one is the throttle body intake boot. Eighth one is the dipstick/ccv system. Ninth one is the MAF sensor. Tenth one is the oil filter housing gasket
Thanks for the vid. You forgot to mention, that every M54 owner should change the coolant hoses at least after every five years, and the cooling liquid too. :) If one of the coolant hoses blows off, because of the high coolant pressure, (2bars), you can wait for the trailer to arrive.
The big pain is R&R is the CCV and starter. That is my plan this summer. The cooling system on mine is done except the expansion tank. All you have pointed out are on my check list. 👍👍👍👍👍
Here is a bonus advice from a decade long e39 / 5series driver: Avoid the original BMW Waterpump and go for the EMP Stewart Waterpump instead. Larger bearings and way longer life usage. Withe original setup, the wear and tear comes from the one sided stress of the aircon system. More expensive but worth it if you are a collector or heavy daily driving.
top thing imo 1. Cooling system 2. oil pump left hand thread backing off 3. REPLACE YOUR GASKETS! 4. DISA pin falling into intake 5. change oil every 3k two of my junk yard motors have bad cams bearings because of this. I also have a motor with a broken piston ring that grenaded the piston hole in the side of the piston tru the skirt where the ring broke luckily bore has minimal damage hone should fix it heres hoping.
Good stuff, I have had a 2.5 for about 2 years and have done 5 of the ten...Yes all cheap and relatively easy.. I got a workshop to do the seals and ccv system...definitely worth the effort. 200,000 klms. Australia, runs beautifully
I need help dean i have engine misfires but no fault codes i have a bmw e46 330ci 2 door coupe i have replaced the idle control valve have replaced all coil packs and spark plugs there was a bit of oil on bottom of each spark plugs engine still vibrating the only thing not replaced is pcv valve thanks
Thanks for the video! Proud owner of a uk 325 2003 E46... Looking after it myself after learning a great deal from RUclips repair videos! Recently, decided to replace pre-cat o2 sensors...a piece of cake after watching videos from American RUclipsrs, especially the 50skid... The location of the o2 sensors was accessible however, little did I know that UK and may be EU cars had a slightly different locations and placements of some components like the pre-cat O2 sensors... Really Like completely different! The bank 1 sensor 1 took me 3 hours to remove and replace... And Bank 2 sensor 1, I just gave up. It's nowhere to be seen as it's nicely hidden behind the rear of the manifold and couldn't even squeeze my tiny have to feel it! Would you be kind enough to do a video on how to remove this sensor...or the least may be to show us how to access it. This will cost an arm and a leg to have it replaced by the Stealers!! I've googled every possible combinations of keywords but not one result related to a UK M54 engine repair work!! PLEASE HELP!!
Very nice videos on the M54, really appreciate it. I have one question though. You are talking 100K miles; I am about to purchase a 320i with the M54B22 with about 90K KM, do I have to watch out for the same issues around 90K KM, or will this only be an issue at 160K KM (roughly 100K miles)? I'm especially worried about stuff like Vanos. Asking because I'm not that knowledgeable, never owned a BMW before and kinda worried about immediate follow up costs/repairs. Would appreciate your opinion, thanks.
Good info. I prefer to switch to an electric fan over the clutch fan, as it makes for a design that allows you quick access to the front of the motor without having to remove the clutch. Thanks for the video!
I have oneit runs great, i changed all those items. But i keep getting a intermittent code for a miss fire in cylinder 2. I i cleared the code and left it was idling for about 30 minutes or so and the code came back. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
When I first changed it it seemed fine then I noticed a wobble so I checked it at a cold start it had drag it felt good but when I got to operating temperature it would wobble severely and felt loose so I got a new one and I hope it's that and not the water pump but that's new also
M54 question Have a oil leak near the the exhaust side on the face have oil leaking on to the bottom radiator hose I know its not the water pump could it be the exhaust cam postio sensor or vanos gasket ?
Almost all things in your video failed on my M54 after 100K miles. Plus almost all ignition coils and every single rubber seal in the engine. I still have to replace leaky oil pan seal and rear main seal. The rear main seal is going to be really PITA to replace and it leaks badly already while clutch is still good. Regarding coolant expansion tank, mine never cracked, but it would if I didn't tested and replaced frozen coolant cap. I've made a test assembly for caps myself that I inflate by compressed air. Cap should blow the air off at 2 bars, but it usually does not even at 3 bars when 2+ years old. That's a spell for exploding the weakest part of coolant system.
yeah mate I have alot more videos coming out for these engines with all the other problems associated with this engine mate I just wanted to do the top ten
great info. can confirm Your points after 500k km on my E39 520 2001. could you give similar summary for the also very usual faultcodes, linked to these and other hw issues ? thanks
@BMW Doctor: Hi, recently I bought my first BMW which is E60 M54B30 with 105k miles on it, valve cover gasket and OFH gasket were replaced before I bought it, recently I changed an oil (+flushing engine with LiquiMoly), and filters. Then after I run the car on high RPMs alternator died, so I regenerated it. I want to fix as much as possible by myself, and want to follow your guideline about the most critical parts. Especially water pump (I saw that pulley is rusty so it might be quite old part) and Vanos because I'm not so happy of torque at low RPM even that my previous car which was only 125HP. Few questions: 1) am I right that clutch fan is not applicable in E60 M54 because it has electric fan? 2) is it really so likely to damage engine due to overheating and none of sensors will not let you know that something wrong happened? 3) do you recommend always OEM vendor parts? e.g. what about DISA vendor? 4) if in E60 the coolant tank is more reliable than this which you showed on video? at least it looks different. 5) I'd like to avoid replacing CCV at the moment, but I'm not sure if it might be a reason why valve cover and OFH gaskets failed before I bought the car.. do you recommend some test/check procedure to assess its condition? Thanks a lot. Many videos to watch from your channel.
E85 Z4 What should I look for crank no start all of a sudden? Car was running fine. Didn’t drive it for 10 days and then all it would do is crank. It almost started in the beginning a couple times after a lot of cranking but then EML and service light came up and won’t start. Only code I have is: 2896 - DME inlet camshaft sensor: signal. I changed the intake camshaft sensor with an OEM part and did nothing. Tried installing a new ignition switch. Did nothing.
9:25 i’ve forgot to plug in the MAF socket more than one week and i’m start to realize it when i can’t press the cruise control button on the steering wheel and the engine wont rev on stop if i press the pedal and brake. But the engine seems to idle normal.
One more thing that will fail and is a good idea to replace: O2 sensors (the ones in the manifold). They are not that expensive and can make the car run great again.
I have a question I bought mine with a supercharger and I see many of the common issues have been taken care of, should I start getting upgraded radiator, and such instead of staying stock
My fan clutch is still going strong after 200,000 miles on my 02 e39 but i replaced the water pump and pullry and hoses i did the ccv system which was super dumb worst design ever. Now I'm redoing dual vanos and head gasket and piston rings. I'm going to find a shop that'll either super charge it or turbo it.
That's spot on man, I've had to fix everything on my 2003 BMW 330i you mentioned except for the MAF sensor and the clutch fan. I did however as you mentioned replace my clutch fan with the electric version which the manual version uses and I totally disagree with you. I've had it on for almost 100k miles (161k km) with no issues and it is sooo much easier whenever I have to take it apart to work on the engine. I buy my parts on fcpeuro here in the US and get lifetime warranty on everything including the oil I kid you not. My head gasket I replaced it at about 80k miles before it failed me just as a preventative measure and it still going strong. I would add if your car reaches 160k+ km, you will have to replace your starter, battery, alternator and fuel pump. My recommendation is replace your fuel filter every 60k - 80k kilometers to prevent your fuel pump from going out. Luckily replacing the fuel pump is pretty simple and I'm no mechanic but was able to do it myself.
Mate this car is on 160K still with NO ISSUES when I got it on original parts I made that Choice to change it we do not need to go all anal on our cars in the U.K. as our cars ain’t fitted with all manufacturer reject parts Our cars are all made in Germany with top quality control parts Here in the U.K. we have no need to change everything and as for starters THEY DONT GO OUT ON ANY BMW HERE IN THE UK ask anyone that in the U.K. and they will laugh at you and that’s the same for the fuel pump because we don’t get crap fuel with high sulphur like you guys do We also don’t suffer alternator problems like you do my friend UK cars are very very different to you American cars trust me on that like we don’t suffer the piston ring failure like you guys do and head gasket failure it’s un heard of here And I’m sure all European guys will comment on this and tell you the same Me and them have never heard of a country with SOOOO MANY PROBLEMS WITH A CAR that just DONT HAPPEN HERE But this is why Europe have stopped sending you our most glorious models Mercedes ,bmw ,Vw and Audi because of reason like some models are exclusive to the Eu and why is that ??? Because all you guys do is destroy them then create forums bad mouthing the name the German company’s worked hard to build up in Europe as a RELIABLE car and my friend I have another channel with a car that you guys never ever ever even got and I’m glad your not part of it it’s European car ONLY and it’s got one of the best reputation anywhere and you know why that is ???? Because a lot of idiots from the USA can’t go on the forums slandering the car and blaming the dealer for everything when in actual fact it’s idiots BUYING THESE CARS which shouldn’t and the poor bmw dealers take a hammering for idiots Bmw was never to know the in educated would end up buying there brand this is why I work closely with many many many of the bmw dealers across the world and the likes of many in Europe and how you guys talk about the cars there they have a field day when I print all these comments off and take them for Conference and all this does is limit you and stop you getting more and more and more stuff the more you slander the less you get You guys moan about waterpump listen to me bro right now I have a N52 with the ORIGINAL WATERPUMP , alternator , fuel pump , thermostat all at 170k still driving perfect Name me a car in America at that mileage still running perfect 😂
@@BMWDoctor You sure do seem to have a bad taste in your mouth for Americans, why is that? This is not the first reply you've given that trashed ALL Americans. Like ppl in the UK or any other Country in the world you can't throw a blanket over the whole population and say they're all bad. Shame you have such a bad attitude towards us. I wounder how many Americans subscribe to your channel? I used to
@@BMWDoctor My 93 Volvo 940 NA has 253K MILES and runs like a top. Best auto investment I've made. My experience is that European cars are often not designed to live in US summer climate stop / start traffic with AC on and hot shutoff. In my experience: Passat 1.8, Volvo T5, Mercedes 400E, Alfa GTV6, Jag XK(cast iron block notwithstanding) Gaskets, Vac and coolant plumbing lines fail after several summers and mechanics are loathe to verify/bleed pockets of air in coolant system.
and if anyone is reading, please confirm that the M54 oxygen sensor wiring is SECURED. Expect that one drooped against the exhaust manifold, ensuing engine fire was expensive.
I have replaced everything on there that you're speaking about I said I had to change the charcoal filter and I mentioned on your last livestream about the cooling fan wobbling I'm on my third clutch fan I think the second one one was a bad part
I have a misfire from a lean fuel leak in bank 2 in my m54 engine and I changed the secondary pump hoses, spark plugs (6), and boot intake hoses. Could it be the intakemanifold, or my ignition coil?
Greeting. Between 1500 and 2000 rpm, the engine of the car produces hum, regardless of whether it is in motion and in place. The noise is very pronounced in those moments. It works nicely on lower or higher rpm. what could cause that noise? Also sometimes the engine has full power sometimes not. It is a BMW E 46 330 xi M54 b30
Good evening, how’s it going man? Just a quick one. I bought m54b25 last week I haven’t done more research?! and I’m surprised?! if I would buy that today, I don’t know😅 I’ve got around 125K 1 o’clock.. he’s got full Bmw service history.. I don’t know really what to start with it looks brand-new drive brand-new
I have a 2007 335i n54 do you know what these codes mean I got them through INPA : 2A19, 2FBC , 2A94 , with 3100 (limp mode) car is idling rough and has long cranks at start
A google search will typically provide you with the answers you’re looking for faster than commenting on a RUclips channel. That may or may not ever see or respond to your comment. However it sounds like you don’t have enough fuel pressure based on the codes and brief description. Check your fuses to see if the fuse for your HPFP is blown. If not then the unit itself is probably bad.
Zach P thanks Zach I did check online and I just couldn’t get a clear answer everything seemed to point in different directions so I appreciate your feedback it helps a lot I will check that fuse
replacing all my vac hoses, the entire cooling system, crank and camshaft sensors (wih OE sensors) my 97 523i m52 runs smoother, has more power and much better fuel economy. i feel like its going to last another 300k and all these costed roughly 600$. thats nothing to keep.those.great engines running.
driving wise the torque converter sucks, feels like a slipping clutch all the time, only good to drive when the TC locks up. Reliability is questionable as they were sold with "lifetime oil" which is not true, so it's safe to say almost NO e46 auto's have ever had fluid/filter changes... they can last if driven by and like a grandma but really, if you want an automatic car just get a diesel while you're there... the M54 screams for a manual (about to swap a 6-speed in mine, I CANNOT get on with the auto in this thing, feels like there's no connection between what I tell the car to do and the wheels. Not recommended. 120k mi GM 5L40e "better" auto 2003MY)
that's the transmission I have GM5L40 very very good transmission BUT I do not believe your quotes here for starters you are not meant to buy a E46 330I and expect to drive it like a boy racer clearly I think your overstepping the reality of what these cars were made for and WHO they were made for years ago years ago business men and women and companies would buy these cars and drive them PROPERLY the way they should be driven therefore they didn't need a strong reliable gearbox and if you notice something ANY E46 OR E39 that is not treated like rubbish and ragged around everywhere are still on the original gearboxes the only ones that moan who expect to buy a 325i or 330i and expect it to be a race car BMW is not designed for that there luxury cruisers and thats it the only reason bmw HAD NO CHOICE to put in a stronger ZF gearbox was idiots destroying the gearboxes then blaming BMW instead of bmw having there named tarnished by a bunch of idiots they then blamed GM when there is 10000S of cars using that transmission with NO ISSUES WHY ???? because they have responsible owners not idiots wanting to buy a 330i and try and think they have a a cheap mans M3 because they cant afford it difference with me is I'm on 163k and gearbox is still smooth and solid with NEVER a oil change why because I don't thrash it around trying to make it something it ain't thats why I say anyone who has more problems then it should on a bmw is called lack of ownership and shouldn't be allowed near a bus pass let alone a BMW thats my facts on it and the true facts I have had many many many many many BMWS from even 1998 auto all the way to 2001 to 2010 and aint suffered such issues I have ever heard in my life since I joined RUclips
Actually if you don’t maintain your engine and say overheat it , etc that added heat can destroy a transmission in minutes. I daily drive a 330xi and once in a while I will exercise it on highway high load high revs… it’s about how you maintain the car too .
great vid, can you do a vid on how much the zf6hp19 transmission can hold, i have a pre-lci 530i and want to do some mild power upgrades, like a small tdo4 single turbo at like 6 psi or an active autowerkes sc kit.
Hey Dean, my e60 with the M54b25 probably has the original disa valve from the factory. It has 380.000km. No rattle. Haven’t looked at it either. Every time I unlock the car I can hear the disa flap move by it’s clicking sound. It’s still good I suppose?
yo literally im at 150k and all of these i recently replaced like clutch fan, throttle body, Maf sensor, and soon my VCG, gonna have to look into the CCV system and Vanos Seals soon cause im not even trynna get to the point where its broken. Preventative maintenence
I bought an X5 E53 with M54B30 engine, for $5000. I've now spent $10,000 fixing it, and with more to do. Parts are generally cheap enough, but sadly 'everything' fails on these cars. Everything is 'The Achilles' Heel' of the X5. It all adds up to a very expensive car, and if I'd known more I wouldn't have bought it. It's cost me $15,000 and I'd be lucky to sell it for $6,500. Amongst other things, it needed an engine replacement, and almost impossible to find one, it took the biggest Euro Parts supplier in Australia 7 months to find one, and putting that $1,850, 190,000Km engine, into my 143,000 Km car cost $3,330. Not an easy job as transmission had to come out. Everything about the car is over-engineered and too complex and with countless brittle plastic parts. My advice, if considering buying an X5, don't do it.
with the valve cover with my car it was not the gasket but the cover itself which warped I could get it to seal when it was cold by using silicone but when the engine was hot it would leak, so just replace the valve cover itself that is the problem not the gasket.
Should mention the power steering resuivuar o-ring. Its an issue on all these engines and makes a mess. Its only a few dollars. It looks like its leaking on the one in your video too.
Hi mate. I'd love to hear what are your general thoughts on the M54's predecessor M52, which was also naturally aspirated inline-6? I am interested specifically in the E46 320i model reliability-wise. Thank you.
Hello, I thank you very much for your videos I have a problem after changing the battery and recording it by obd the water pump is still running even after locking the car and waiting for 45 min it is still in use it is a 2008 bmw e60
chain tensioner spring (not fail, but replacing it will stop chatter and tension the chain properly again) and oil pump nut winding itself off at high rpm causing instant death are 2 other things to keep a note of
Rohan exactly what I thought nate 😂😂😂😂 this guy has lost it They think every engine is N47 as if I even do them crappy 4 cylinder engines 😂 Man ain’t that broke yet 🤣
Ok. My BMW doesn't have a VO/FA file, neither on the CAS or LMA module. I read that this file could be "remade" by pro's. I don't know the reason why the VO is missing (I owned for 7 months), but it seems like tempering. In conclusion, I cannot even try to code anything on it. I was hoping you can help me with a price for this, if it is possible. Thank you and keep it up! Very useful videos!
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Agree. I changed everything on this list over the years, and car runs strong leak free and a thrill to drive. BMW all the way.
Spot on advice as always Dean. Done all of those to my M54B30, that is on 105k. It runs just as sweet as anything 👍
no problem mate thanks for watching
Dont forget oil pump nut on the 3.0
Er
At 100k it would also be wise to check and replace the ICPS and ECPS Intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors if needed. Essentially, making sure your emissions system works properly will make your life a lot easier.
Thanks for this. I have 113k miles on my Z4 2.5i. I replaced the expansion tank a year ago and the radiator just recently. Had a leaky valve cover gasket and had it replaced along with a new valve cover. All this stuff is plastic and gets brittle. I just did not want to deal with a split or crack later with the valve cover. I had an alternator idler and tensioner replaced as well and new serpentine belt and A/C belt. The M54 is a solid engine if maintained. Oh had brake fluid flushed and replaced. Lot of moisture in the system. I don't want rusting brake lines. I am the 3rd owner of the car so I doubt any of the PM work was done. I have heard about the DISA. Spooky stuff there. I did not know about the VANOS or fan clutch tip.
one more thing! VERY often overlooked and rarely mentioned: 🤓 The hydraulic lifters OFTEN clog and cause all kinds of engine fault codes, NONE of these codes actually mention to check the hydraulic lifters, they always "blame" another part. hence you end up replacing alot of parts which are still good without getting to the root cause. Try HYDRAULIC LIFTER CLEANING FLUID first, this stuff is meant to do just that, and it often really works! this is the simplest fix for your M54 engine, and you can't really hurt the engine with cleaner lifters, even if there is another fault as well.
Spot on. Relatively cheap fixes but worth it for what performance you get from this engine.
Very good video. I have an M54 on 96k miles and have just renewed oil seals for valve cover and oil filter housing and at the same time renewed belts and thermostat. But you have mentioned numerous other things to keep an eye on so that is useful info.
One thing you did not speak about but is a major risk with these cars is cylinder head cracking. This can happen very easily, not just when the expansion tank splits but if there is any air in the system. Fortunately there are products out today that can deal with this without removing the head but if it gets too bad you will need a new cylinder head.
FYI, my BMW is a 2003 e39 and a work colleague has just scrapped an identical model after it developed multiple problems. But, while living with severe oil leaks, he did manage to get 385k miles out of the engine with little more maintenance than oil changes, which is quite impressive. Incidentally, for the last 100k miles he didn't even bother to change the oil because he was adding 2 quarts every 500 miles!
Appreciate the fact that you are responding to people's questions in this blog. Hopefully this will get you a lot of subscribers. Thanks.
Timely video, Dean. My Expansion Tank and one hose started leaking on my "02. At 62K no less. I know all of these problems have happened on my car already, or will happen, on the way to 100K miles. Just the nature of the beast. Looking forward to Part II of this video. Thanks for doing these two videos for us M54 owners.
For people with a BMW Z4 M54 Disregard the first one. The fan clutch bearing. Second one is the thermostat/water pump. Third one is the disa valve. Fourth one is the valve cover. Fifth one is the dual/double vanoss systems. Sixth one is the coolant resivoir. Seventh one is the throttle body intake boot. Eighth one is the dipstick/ccv system. Ninth one is the MAF sensor. Tenth one is the oil filter housing gasket
Did the ccv in my m54 over a month ago it was such a pain since I didn’t want to remove the intake manifold but it was a rewarding job
I'm replacing the manifold for the m50 conversion. Is it worth fitting a catch tank between the CCV?
Thanks for the vid. You forgot to mention, that every M54 owner should change the coolant hoses at least after every five years, and the cooling liquid too. :) If one of the coolant hoses blows off, because of the high coolant pressure, (2bars), you can wait for the trailer to arrive.
The big pain is R&R is the CCV and starter. That is my plan this summer. The cooling system on mine is done except the expansion tank. All you have pointed out are on my check list. 👍👍👍👍👍
no problem Kevin mate I hope you enjoy this job come summer time mate lol trust me im glad im not you
Here is a bonus advice from a decade long e39 / 5series driver: Avoid the original BMW Waterpump and go for the EMP Stewart Waterpump instead. Larger bearings and way longer life usage. Withe original setup, the wear and tear comes from the one sided stress of the aircon system. More expensive but worth it if you are a collector or heavy daily driving.
top thing imo 1. Cooling system 2. oil pump left hand thread backing off 3. REPLACE YOUR GASKETS! 4. DISA pin falling into intake 5. change oil every 3k two of my junk yard motors have bad cams bearings because of this. I also have a motor with a broken piston ring that grenaded the piston hole in the side of the piston tru the skirt where the ring broke luckily bore has minimal damage hone should fix it heres hoping.
Good stuff, I have had a 2.5 for about 2 years and have done 5 of the ten...Yes all cheap and relatively easy.. I got a workshop to do the seals and ccv system...definitely worth the effort. 200,000 klms. Australia, runs beautifully
Great video. Easy to follow.
I need help dean i have engine misfires but no fault codes i have a bmw e46 330ci 2 door coupe i have replaced the idle control valve have replaced all coil packs and spark plugs there was a bit of oil on bottom of each spark plugs engine still vibrating the only thing not replaced is pcv valve thanks
Thanks for the video! Proud owner of a uk 325 2003 E46... Looking after it myself after learning a great deal from RUclips repair videos! Recently, decided to replace pre-cat o2 sensors...a piece of cake after watching videos from American RUclipsrs, especially the 50skid... The location of the o2 sensors was accessible however, little did I know that UK and may be EU cars had a slightly different locations and placements of some components like the pre-cat O2 sensors... Really Like completely different! The bank 1 sensor 1 took me 3 hours to remove and replace... And Bank 2 sensor 1, I just gave up. It's nowhere to be seen as it's nicely hidden behind the rear of the manifold and couldn't even squeeze my tiny have to feel it! Would you be kind enough to do a video on how to remove this sensor...or the least may be to show us how to access it. This will cost an arm and a leg to have it replaced by the Stealers!! I've googled every possible combinations of keywords but not one result related to a UK M54 engine repair work!! PLEASE HELP!!
What did you end up doing with it?
Very nice videos on the M54, really appreciate it.
I have one question though. You are talking 100K miles; I am about to purchase a 320i with the M54B22 with about 90K KM, do I have to watch out for the same issues around 90K KM, or will this only be an issue at 160K KM (roughly 100K miles)? I'm especially worried about stuff like Vanos.
Asking because I'm not that knowledgeable, never owned a BMW before and kinda worried about immediate follow up costs/repairs. Would appreciate your opinion, thanks.
Good info. I prefer to switch to an electric fan over the clutch fan, as it makes for a design that allows you quick access to the front of the motor without having to remove the clutch. Thanks for the video!
My fan clutch exploded in a bunch of tiny pieces puncturing my resivoir and radiator.. headaches
ive had them all and fixed them myself ! one more is the oil ring on the oil dipstick
I have oneit runs great, i changed all those items. But i keep getting a intermittent code for a miss fire in cylinder 2. I i cleared the code and left it was idling for about 30 minutes or so and the code came back. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
When I first changed it it seemed fine then I noticed a wobble so I checked it at a cold start it had drag it felt good but when I got to operating temperature it would wobble severely and felt loose so I got a new one and I hope it's that and not the water pump but that's new also
M54 question Have a oil leak near the the exhaust side on the face have oil leaking on to the bottom radiator hose I know its not the water pump could it be the exhaust cam postio sensor or vanos gasket ?
Hi my friend...what you think if I buy m54 with run 252000 km E60...is it too much for m54????I need tou advice please...BMW DOCTOR
Tip... Remove the clutch fan and instal a electric one
Almost all things in your video failed on my M54 after 100K miles. Plus almost all ignition coils and every single rubber seal in the engine. I still have to replace leaky oil pan seal and rear main seal. The rear main seal is going to be really PITA to replace and it leaks badly already while clutch is still good.
Regarding coolant expansion tank, mine never cracked, but it would if I didn't tested and replaced frozen coolant cap. I've made a test assembly for caps myself that I inflate by compressed air. Cap should blow the air off at 2 bars, but it usually does not even at 3 bars when 2+ years old. That's a spell for exploding the weakest part of coolant system.
yeah mate I have alot more videos coming out for these engines with all the other problems associated with this engine mate I just wanted to do the top ten
@@BMWDoctor Looking forward to these Dean. Are you an ex BMW mechanic?
great info.
can confirm Your points after 500k km on my E39 520 2001.
could you give similar summary for the also very usual faultcodes, linked to these and other hw issues ?
thanks
@BMW Doctor: Hi, recently I bought my first BMW which is E60 M54B30 with 105k miles on it, valve cover gasket and OFH gasket were replaced before I bought it, recently I changed an oil (+flushing engine with LiquiMoly), and filters. Then after I run the car on high RPMs alternator died, so I regenerated it. I want to fix as much as possible by myself, and want to follow your guideline about the most critical parts. Especially water pump (I saw that pulley is rusty so it might be quite old part) and Vanos because I'm not so happy of torque at low RPM even that my previous car which was only 125HP. Few questions: 1) am I right that clutch fan is not applicable in E60 M54 because it has electric fan? 2) is it really so likely to damage engine due to overheating and none of sensors will not let you know that something wrong happened? 3) do you recommend always OEM vendor parts? e.g. what about DISA vendor? 4) if in E60 the coolant tank is more reliable than this which you showed on video? at least it looks different. 5) I'd like to avoid replacing CCV at the moment, but I'm not sure if it might be a reason why valve cover and OFH gaskets failed before I bought the car.. do you recommend some test/check procedure to assess its condition? Thanks a lot. Many videos to watch from your channel.
E85 Z4
What should I look for crank no start all of a sudden?
Car was running fine. Didn’t drive it for 10 days and then all it would do is crank. It almost started in the beginning a couple times after a lot of cranking but then EML and service light came up and won’t start.
Only code I have is: 2896 - DME inlet camshaft sensor: signal. I changed the intake camshaft sensor with an OEM part and did nothing.
Tried installing a new ignition switch. Did nothing.
Hi mate I have a 520d f10 n47 engine I got a engine pressure too low brake safety signal on my dash cant figure out were to star can u help.
9:25 i’ve forgot to plug in the MAF socket more than one week and i’m start to realize it when i can’t press the cruise control button on the steering wheel and the engine wont rev on stop if i press the pedal and brake. But the engine seems to idle normal.
One more thing that will fail and is a good idea to replace: O2 sensors (the ones in the manifold). They are not that expensive and can make the car run great again.
I have a question I bought mine with a supercharger and I see many of the common issues have been taken care of, should I start getting upgraded radiator, and such instead of staying stock
My fan clutch is still going strong after 200,000 miles on my 02 e39 but i replaced the water pump and pullry and hoses i did the ccv system which was super dumb worst design ever. Now I'm redoing dual vanos and head gasket and piston rings. I'm going to find a shop that'll either super charge it or turbo it.
Hello. I have an M52TU engine and would like to know which is the best site outside the US to order a VANOS Repair Kit. Thank you very much.
Should I replace the whole VANOS unit or just the solenoids? I’m about to buy a Z3 2.8L and it has about 130k miles on it
My e46 won't come up to temp. Stays on the cold side. Is the thermostat shot?
That’s correct yes it is
Thanks. Ordering one now
You're lucky it stuck open. Disastrous if it sticks when closed. It doesn't take much to crack these cylinder heads!
I ordered a water pump as well.
That's spot on man, I've had to fix everything on my 2003 BMW 330i you mentioned except for the MAF sensor and the clutch fan. I did however as you mentioned replace my clutch fan with the electric version which the manual version uses and I totally disagree with you. I've had it on for almost 100k miles (161k km) with no issues and it is sooo much easier whenever I have to take it apart to work on the engine. I buy my parts on fcpeuro here in the US and get lifetime warranty on everything including the oil I kid you not. My head gasket I replaced it at about 80k miles before it failed me just as a preventative measure and it still going strong. I would add if your car reaches 160k+ km, you will have to replace your starter, battery, alternator and fuel pump. My recommendation is replace your fuel filter every 60k - 80k kilometers to prevent your fuel pump from going out. Luckily replacing the fuel pump is pretty simple and I'm no mechanic but was able to do it myself.
Mate this car is on 160K still with NO ISSUES when I got it on original parts I made that Choice to change it we do not need to go all anal on our cars in the U.K. as our cars ain’t fitted with all manufacturer reject parts
Our cars are all made in Germany with top quality control parts
Here in the U.K. we have no need to change everything and as for starters THEY DONT GO OUT ON ANY BMW HERE IN THE UK ask anyone that in the U.K. and they will laugh at you and that’s the same for the fuel pump because we don’t get crap fuel with high sulphur like you guys do
We also don’t suffer alternator problems like you do my friend UK cars are very very different to you American cars trust me on that like we don’t suffer the piston ring failure like you guys do and head gasket failure it’s un heard of here
And I’m sure all European guys will comment on this and tell you the same
Me and them have never heard of a country with SOOOO MANY PROBLEMS WITH A CAR that just DONT HAPPEN HERE
But this is why Europe have stopped sending you our most glorious models Mercedes ,bmw ,Vw and Audi because of reason like some models are exclusive to the Eu and why is that ???
Because all you guys do is destroy them then create forums bad mouthing the name the German company’s worked hard to build up in Europe as a RELIABLE car and my friend I have another channel with a car that you guys never ever ever even got and I’m glad your not part of it it’s European car ONLY and it’s got one of the best reputation anywhere and you know why that is ????
Because a lot of idiots from the USA can’t go on the forums slandering the car and blaming the dealer for everything when in actual fact it’s idiots BUYING THESE CARS which shouldn’t and the poor bmw dealers take a hammering for idiots
Bmw was never to know the in educated would end up buying there brand this is why I work closely with many many many of the bmw dealers across the world and the likes of many in Europe and how you guys talk about the cars there they have a field day when I print all these comments off and take them for
Conference and all this does is limit you and stop you getting more and more and more stuff the more you slander the less you get
You guys moan about waterpump listen to me bro right now I have a N52 with the ORIGINAL WATERPUMP , alternator , fuel pump , thermostat all at 170k still driving perfect
Name me a car in America at that mileage still running perfect 😂
@@BMWDoctor You sure do seem to have a bad taste in your mouth for Americans, why is that? This is not the first reply you've given that trashed ALL Americans. Like ppl in the UK or any other Country in the world you can't throw a blanket over the whole population and say they're all bad. Shame you have such a bad attitude towards us. I wounder how many Americans subscribe to your channel? I used to
@@BMWDoctor My 93 Volvo 940 NA has 253K MILES and runs like a top. Best auto investment I've made. My experience is that European cars are often not designed to live in US summer climate stop / start traffic with AC on and hot shutoff. In my experience: Passat 1.8, Volvo T5, Mercedes 400E, Alfa GTV6, Jag XK(cast iron block notwithstanding) Gaskets, Vac and coolant plumbing lines fail after several summers and mechanics are loathe to verify/bleed pockets of air in coolant system.
Thanks for the warnings, the latest 2005 Z4 addition is due
and if anyone is reading, please confirm that the M54 oxygen sensor wiring is SECURED. Expect that one drooped against the exhaust manifold, ensuing engine fire was expensive.
I have replaced everything on there that you're speaking about I said I had to change the charcoal filter and I mentioned on your last livestream about the cooling fan wobbling I'm on my third clutch fan I think the second one one was a bad part
For the fan clutch only go with proper oem part like Sachs or factory original
Ok thanks
Salut jai pas de dépression dans mon 25i e46 alors que jai tout change ?? Dou peux venir le soucis merci beaucoup
I have a misfire from a lean fuel leak in bank 2 in my m54 engine and I changed the secondary pump hoses, spark plugs (6), and boot intake hoses. Could it be the intakemanifold, or my ignition coil?
Greeting.
Between 1500 and 2000 rpm, the engine of the car produces hum, regardless of whether it is in motion and in place. The noise is very pronounced in those moments. It works nicely on lower or higher rpm. what could cause that noise? Also sometimes the engine has full power sometimes not. It is a BMW E 46 330 xi M54 b30
I would like to see a list of these items and a recommended vendor/manufacturer. Thank you,,,,Paul
Good evening, how’s it going man? Just a quick one. I bought m54b25 last week I haven’t done more research?! and I’m surprised?! if I would buy that today, I don’t know😅 I’ve got around 125K 1 o’clock.. he’s got full Bmw service history.. I don’t know really what to start with it looks brand-new drive brand-new
I have a 2007 335i n54 do you know what these codes mean I got them through INPA : 2A19, 2FBC , 2A94 , with 3100 (limp mode) car is idling rough and has long cranks at start
A google search will typically provide you with the answers you’re looking for faster than commenting on a RUclips channel. That may or may not ever see or respond to your comment. However it sounds like you don’t have enough fuel pressure based on the codes and brief description. Check your fuses to see if the fuse for your HPFP is blown. If not then the unit itself is probably bad.
Zach P thanks Zach I did check online and I just couldn’t get a clear answer everything seemed to point in different directions so I appreciate your feedback it helps a lot I will check that fuse
replacing all my vac hoses, the entire cooling system, crank and camshaft sensors (wih OE sensors) my 97 523i m52 runs smoother, has more power and much better fuel economy. i feel like its going to last another 300k and all these costed roughly 600$. thats nothing to keep.those.great engines running.
Great video man, just one question do the M54 E46 have any problems with the Automatic transmission? Or is it just best to get a manual
driving wise the torque converter sucks, feels like a slipping clutch all the time, only good to drive when the TC locks up. Reliability is questionable as they were sold with "lifetime oil" which is not true, so it's safe to say almost NO e46 auto's have ever had fluid/filter changes... they can last if driven by and like a grandma but really, if you want an automatic car just get a diesel while you're there... the M54 screams for a manual (about to swap a 6-speed in mine, I CANNOT get on with the auto in this thing, feels like there's no connection between what I tell the car to do and the wheels. Not recommended. 120k mi GM 5L40e "better" auto 2003MY)
that's the transmission I have GM5L40 very very good transmission BUT I do not believe your quotes here for starters you are not meant to buy a E46 330I and expect to drive it like a boy racer clearly I think your overstepping the reality of what these cars were made for and WHO they were made for years ago
years ago business men and women and companies would buy these cars and drive them PROPERLY the way they should be driven therefore they didn't need a strong reliable gearbox and if you notice something ANY E46 OR E39 that is not treated like rubbish and ragged around everywhere are still on the original gearboxes the only ones that moan who expect to buy a 325i or 330i and expect it to be a race car BMW is not designed for that there luxury cruisers and thats it
the only reason bmw HAD NO CHOICE to put in a stronger ZF gearbox was idiots destroying the gearboxes then blaming BMW instead of bmw having there named tarnished by a bunch of idiots they then blamed GM when there is 10000S of cars using that transmission with NO ISSUES WHY ???? because they have responsible owners not idiots wanting to buy a 330i and try and think they have a a cheap mans M3 because they cant afford it
difference with me is I'm on 163k and gearbox is still smooth and solid with NEVER a oil change
why because I don't thrash it around trying to make it something it ain't
thats why I say anyone who has more problems then it should on a bmw is called lack of ownership and shouldn't be allowed near a bus pass let alone a BMW
thats my facts on it and the true facts I have had many many many many many BMWS from even 1998 auto all the way to 2001 to 2010 and aint suffered such issues I have ever heard in my life since I joined RUclips
Actually if you don’t maintain your engine and say overheat it , etc that added heat can destroy a transmission in minutes. I daily drive a 330xi and once in a while I will exercise it on highway high load high revs… it’s about how you maintain the car too .
great vid, can you do a vid on how much the zf6hp19 transmission can hold, i have a pre-lci 530i and want to do some mild power upgrades, like a small tdo4 single turbo at like 6 psi or an active autowerkes sc kit.
Hey Dean, my e60 with the M54b25 probably has the original disa valve from the factory. It has 380.000km. No rattle. Haven’t looked at it either. Every time I unlock the car I can hear the disa flap move by it’s clicking sound. It’s still good I suppose?
yes mate if you can hear it flapping then its all perfect its when you cant hear it flapping anymore you need to be worried
@@BMWDoctor So I should hear the DISA valve flap when I unlock my door? Never paid attention to that so I'll listen next time I unlock it.
Thank you for your guidance. 😊
yo literally im at 150k and all of these i recently replaced like clutch fan, throttle body, Maf sensor, and soon my VCG, gonna have to look into the CCV system and Vanos Seals soon cause im not even trynna get to the point where its broken. Preventative maintenence
I bought an X5 E53 with M54B30 engine, for $5000. I've now spent $10,000 fixing it, and with more to do. Parts are generally cheap enough, but sadly 'everything' fails on these cars. Everything is 'The Achilles' Heel' of the X5. It all adds up to a very expensive car, and if I'd known more I wouldn't have bought it. It's cost me $15,000 and I'd be lucky to sell it for $6,500. Amongst other things, it needed an engine replacement, and almost impossible to find one, it took the biggest Euro Parts supplier in Australia 7 months to find one, and putting that $1,850, 190,000Km engine, into my 143,000 Km car cost $3,330. Not an easy job as transmission had to come out. Everything about the car is over-engineered and too complex and with countless brittle plastic parts. My advice, if considering buying an X5, don't do it.
your a blessing thank you
Hey can you tell me the maintenance that needs to be done on a m54 engine(06 BMW X5)that reached 200k...I’m in the US by the way
I have only had one problem that was with the ccv other then that no issue every part is original
How is it now??
Mine e60 m54b30 have 400 000k km and run fine 👍
with the valve cover with my car it was not the gasket but the cover itself which warped I could get it to seal when it was cold by using silicone but when the engine was hot it would leak, so just replace the valve cover itself that is the problem not the gasket.
I believe having electric fan is much better than ordinary clutch fan. Specially at traffic conditions electric fan does much better job
the fan switch seems to fail on a lot a of M54's
Maybe we US guys should buy our used MAF sensors from you mates?
And another excellent vid. When is the new car coming on the channel? 😁
Should mention the power steering resuivuar o-ring. Its an issue on all these engines and makes a mess. Its only a few dollars. It looks like its leaking on the one in your video too.
Probably is I wouldn't know as don't own the car anymore, so no need for me to worry lol
Hi mate. I'd love to hear what are your general thoughts on the M54's predecessor M52, which was also naturally aspirated inline-6? I am interested specifically in the E46 320i model reliability-wise. Thank you.
If you are talking about an M52TU modell, it is more reliable then the M54, because it can be honed.
Hello, I thank you very much for your videos I have a problem after changing the battery and recording it by obd the water pump is still running even after locking the car and waiting for 45 min it is still in use it is a 2008 bmw e60
How do u know if the thermostat is original mine has rtv around it
It should NOT have that around it at all no need as they come with a gasket ready
@@BMWDoctor yes did think it been changed I do read and hear a lot of people stick rtv on I replace it save on not needing rtv thank u
great video need help with codeing with ista
My dad gave me his 325 ci e46 he told me that there is misfire. Still trying to figure out what’s going on my obd 2 said it’s a lean fuel and air.
probably vacuum leaks
check your intake boot if it has any cracks
Dear Dr dean fault code 1343 M54 engine all happened after the mechanic changed the ccv
Is there a 328i E46 in existence
Yeah there was but quite rare and they were in production for a short time 1998-2000 IIRC. The 330i replaced the 328i in 2000.
Is it possible to swap S54 cams on a M54 ?
Good question!
chain tensioner spring (not fail, but replacing it will stop chatter and tension the chain properly again) and oil pump nut winding itself off at high rpm causing instant death are 2 other things to keep a note of
I have never heard of that in my LIFE after owning about 10 M54 engines with 130k and 240k I have never ever ever seen that
Rohan exactly what I thought nate 😂😂😂😂 this guy has lost it
They think every engine is N47 as if I even do them crappy 4 cylinder engines 😂
Man ain’t that broke yet 🤣
Yep changed the timing chain tensioner with factory spring, and new sleeve and o ring. Improved throttle response
Bmw x3 e83 thn RPM turun naik gimana memperbaikinya mohon masukannya
Hi! How can I contact you (e-mail, forum)? I need your help (if it's possible) for a BMW E61 (software issue). Thanks!
Contact me here tell me what problem is
Ok. My BMW doesn't have a VO/FA file, neither on the CAS or LMA module. I read that this file could be "remade" by pro's. I don't know the reason why the VO is missing (I owned for 7 months), but it seems like tempering. In conclusion, I cannot even try to code anything on it. I was hoping you can help me with a price for this, if it is possible. Thank you and keep it up! Very useful videos!
I can easily do that why isit missing in the first place
Price is no cheap for this
I need help with my bmw I commented on another video of your just now
Interesting.
My m54b30 has a RATTLING knock on idol goes away when driving its a 2005 e60 140k km
Nice thumbnail
nothing failed only suspension repairs on 300k km
might as well replace the entire car with a Japanese one
👍
Sudu sudas ne masina
Interesting info but dude, you talk so fast and unclear it's hard to follow. And why linking to a camera-tripod you don't use? ;-)
In other words.. it's a piece of shit
Will fail!! Utter nonsense
do you have instagram?