How To - Remove & Replace The Clutch on a Honda CT 110 Trail
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Removing the engine cover & accessing your CT 110 Trail clutch can seem daunting, especially if you've never done it before. However, help is at hand. This video shows how it's done, from start to finish, giving you the confidence to do this job yourself & also serving as a reference should you need to check your progress.
Don't forget to adjust the clutch when you've finished. It's quick & easy to do, I have a video on this if you're unsure how to do it.
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The clutch will need adjusting when you've finished. Here's my video showing how it's done. ruclips.net/video/naUJ5z3p0Tg/видео.html
Excellent presentation, perfectly easy to follow! Two questions please - I am following your great videos to remove, replace the clutch disks, and reinstall the clutch assembly: does the clutch adjustment need to be changed or backed off because of the new clutch disks? And did the bike need to be in neutral to carry out this operation (hope not)? Thanks for a great video, really makes it clear!
Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. Yes will need adjusting when completed, link to a video how to adjust in a pinned comment. Should go together even if in gear but you can put in neutral by pressing the shifter & turning the primary drive gear by hand if you're concerned. Let me know how it goes, I make the videos hopefully to help people do these jobs & it's great to get feedback from someone who used the vids & fixed their CT themselves. Cheers!
How do you check the clutch pack and where would I order the new steel plates and friction plated?
This video should help.
ruclips.net/video/9ybYpf5MgLk/видео.html
I don't know where you live, but in Australia, Lambda motorcycles are the main CT 110 parts supplier. Net search will show others. In USA, I think Dr ATV is the go to. Most of the time all you'll need are the 3 friction plates, a new tab washer & the two countersunk screws holding the bearing housing, often they are hard to remove & get damaged in the process. All the best.
I've been following your videos and doing various repairs. I tried taking out the clutch today and couldn't remove the locking nut (the one you need the special tool for, which I have). It seems to be seized in there. I tried using an impact screwdriver as well, still no luck. One thing I'm missing is a clutch holding tool, but I had someone hold the clutch while I tried unscrewing and it still wouldn't budge. Any advice on how to get it free? I have some WD40 penetration oil spray. Is it safe to use that inside the clutch?
Did you bend back the tab on the lock washer? Sometimes people bend two tabs for some reason. Also be careful not to get anything in the hole on the center of the crank you can block oil feed to the big end. I originally used a home made chain wrench to hold the clutch as shown in this video. Later I bought the alloy clutch holding tool. I'd suggest buying a clutch holding tool. With a 1/2" drive extension & a breaker bar the nut should undo. Last resort would be an 1/2" drive impact gun, but that may damage the castle nut tool. The nut is torqued 29 to 36 ft/lbs I doubt you'd undo it by holding the clutch by hand. Ensure you don't spray anything in the end of the crank. In my ct90 engine strip I use the holding tool. Let me know how you get on. Good luck!
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 I did indeed bend the lock washer tab back. There was only one bent in there. What kind of clutch holding tool did you purchase? Is it one of the metal ones that look like locking pliers? I might try a strap wrench because they're cheap and readily available. Also, I'll hold off on spraying anything in there.
@@username_horse you can see the clutch tool here at 4:10 I bought it from Aliexpress. ruclips.net/video/2KcflXoaGlg/видео.html
Hi Cobba,
Listen, I saw a video, I’m pretty sure it was one of yours, whereby the stainless into aluminium clutch screws ‘did’ seize and you got around it by drilling them out (unfortunately you didn’t actually show that part).
My question is, how did you remove the seized threads that were still stuck in the aluminium drum and no longer attached to the now ‘drilled out’ screw heads?
I’m at that exact stage (replacing the clutch) and I’m stymied because of seized ‘unbudgeable’ screws!
Thanks for your many helpful videos.
Hi mate, I think what I did was drilled out the countersunk part with a large drill, managed to remove the cover & grabbed the screw with pliers. Another time when I drilled through with a small drill I drilled out the screw but damaged the clutch basket. That basket had a shape that I could turn the cap by 90 degrees & drill & tap new holes. Not sure if that's on video. Another time I used a chisel to put a slot in the head, knocked it at an angle & the screw turned.
Shit I’m dumber than even I thought. I found that video, it was a CT90, and, whilst I didn’t actually see you drill the hole (you probably showed that too) I saw you insert an ‘easy out’ and simply extract the remaining thread.
Just for the record, I’ve never known an ‘easy out’, well, I’ve only ever had one success, and that was around 30 odd years ago. General rule of thumb (in my world) is, it’s seized/rusted, whatever, in place and if you can’t remove it with the screw head, you’re certainly not going to get it with anything else.
It ain’t easy to be me that’s for sure!
Anyway, I’m enjoying your videos. Thanks.
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 Thanks for your help, I’ll try something. I take it one can still buy these parts that I’m about to destroy, yeah?
@@SeriousSchitt I looked at my 'how to fix a slipping clutch video' & from the beginning of the video if you look at the clutch basket you can see two screws that have been filed flush, I tried drilling but the drill ran off to the side. That's when I drilled to new holes & tapped them at 90 degrees. You can see this on the casting. Hope you have success they are a pain these screws, I just did a video on cleaning the oil strainer etc & the screws came out easily. Are you using a JIS screwdriver? A phillips will chew the heads
@@Free_Ranger_CT110 Thanks, I will look that video up now.
At the time I tried to undo them I was using standard Phillips impact bits in a hand held impact driver. I did have a myriad of JIS screwdrivers and impact bits, coming from ebay Japan, however, they were in transit and I was impatient.
The screw heads were in perfect order before I started, they’re not ‘munted’ now, but you can tell they’re just starting to ‘go off’!
I’ve seldom to never encountered anything that that impact driver will not budge.
All JIS screwdrivers/impact bits etc, have arrived now, so be prepared to hear some more cursing and swearing from across the ditch!
Great video. Do you have a link where I can buy a new clutch basket assembly or did you rebuild the existing clutch?
I rebuilt the existing clutch. In Australia Lambda motorccles is the go to place for ct110 parts. They have everything for the ct110 clutch. ct110-postie.com/?s=ct110+clutch&post_type=product
Great video. I’m glad you know what your doing ride safe buddy
Thanks mate, I appreciate your support.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Richard, appreciate your support, it makes all the difference.
I did everything you did in the video and now my kickstarter feels like I’m kicking in thin air and engine ran great with compression before. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
Try adjusting the clutch, here's my video showing how it's done. ruclips.net/video/naUJ5z3p0Tg/видео.html
What is the service thickness of the plates etc?