A Trick to Make Hooking Up Hydraulic Hoses Easier
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- Опубликовано: 17 мар 2021
- I like how flat face hydraulic couplers work and how clean they are, but I like that I can release the pressure on Pioneer couplers before hooking them up. In trying to connect attachments with different styles of couplers on my tractor I may have stumbled across a way to have the best of both worlds.
Pioneer couplers have a "poppet", and those of us who grew up in agriculture know that you can release the back pressure on an attachment by putting a rag around it and tapping it with a hammer (or pushing it down on the drawbar). Usually, a small tap and the pressure is out of the system.
Pressure in a closed hydraulic system of an attachment can be a real problem when hooking up. If the attachment was unhooked when it was cool, and then the temperature rises, or the hoses are exposed to the sun, pressure can build drastically in the system. You'd be fighting that pressure when trying to hook the couplers together.
As I said, Pioneer fittings have a way of releasing that pressure, but they're messy. Flat face couplers are much cleaner (they don't release much oil when disconnecting), but you can't easily tap them to release pressure. With an adapter hose you have the best of both worlds.
I've equipped my attachments with flat face couplers. When I'm taking them off the tractor, I'll hook short hoses to them with pioneer couplers on the end. Then I'll plug those Pioneer fittings together to keep the system clean.
The extra volume of the short hoses pre-releases a lot of pressure, but when I'm ready to hook up again, if there's still pressure in the system I can disconnect my Pioneer couplers, put a rag over the male part and tap it with a hammer. All pressure is released at that time. Then I can remove the adapters, and hook my flat face couplers up with no pressure against the implement side. It's a whole lot easier.
If you have multiple attachments, you'll need multiple Pioneer adapters. I'd recommend buying them in 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" sizes so you can hook other attachments to your tractor if they're not flat face couplers. If you want to keep costs down, just buy one hose per attachment with a male Pioneer on each one and that will enable you to release the pressure when you're ready to attach.
Try this trick and I think switching your front attachments will be a lot easier.
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After trying to connect my backhoe for about a hour, I found your video. Great advise now my backhoes is ready to go.
Just want to say thank you for solving my problem not with your hose but with the tapping the tip to release pressure. I’m still relatively new to tractors and hydraulics and I’ve spent a couple frustrating hours on issues including not being able to hook up my hydraulic. I thought it must be bent and was looking to order a new coupler. I watched you video then went out and tapped the tip on my draw bar. Problem solved!
TAKE THE 2 LINES ON YOUR EMPLEMENT AND CONNECT THEM TOGETHER...MALE TO FEMALE. TAKES CARE OF ANY PRESSURE BUILD UP. I'VE DONE THIS FOR 50 YRS. WORKS GOOD ALSO
How would this prevent pressure build up that is caused by higher outdoor temperatures? Even with the two couplers connected together, the fluid is still trapped in the system...
@@peteduncan921 he is referring to in even positive or negative pressure. Basically it equalizes the fluid in the implement.
another option is to connect the flat face fittings on the attachment to each other. That equalizes pressure across the system. I use flat face couplings on the front of my tractor and pioneer on the rear remotes
Thanks for doing this video. Now that I have become an old coot, I need all the tricks, and these will help me cope with my old Massey.
Amazing. I just ran into this problem for the first time a few days ago, while trying to re-install my backhoe. I relieved the pressure by whacking the hose end on a flat surface (after an hour of trying to force the connection in 105 degree heat!
Thank you for the video, the trick taking pressure off the pioneer coupler will help greatly! Hooking up our loader is almost always a struggle with these connectors, will try it next time.
Thanks Mike, I was just about to do this myself. Thank you for confirming that it will work.
Great idea, Mike. I hadn't run into this issue unit this summer and what a pain it is! I just bought the Waite decompression tool which works well too.
Thanks for this video Mike. I assembled a set of hoses like yours tonight to make installing my snow plow and grapple a bit easier in the future.
Thanks for the tip Mike. Your videos are always worth the watch. I tell people about your channel all the time. Keep 'em comin Mike.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks, Mike. This will help so much this summer.
Thanks. Very helpful information. The "old farmer tip" worked for me.
Nice video, Tractor Mike. ive done this all the time with my John Deere 1025 R sub compact tractor when hooking up & unkooking my backhoe/front loader hose connection.
Good simple idea and releasing the pressure tip too! Thanks
Did something similar with the two different fitting styles and a 90° elbow. Haven't gotten to it yet, but also plan to make a couple hoses like that for changing the gender of connection as well. Will likely use the hoses with a SSQA-mounted post-puller in order to be able to use the post-puller (with appropriate mounting adapter) on the tractor's 3pt.
Your a tractor genius💪🏼 thanks Mike🙏🏼
Great idea Mike. You've describe a common problem for me.
Very useful info, Mike. Thanks a bunch!
Another good suggestion. Thanks Mike. 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent idea. As an old farmer I have had my pants legs soaked with hydraulic oil too many times using the "Old Farmer Method".
Absolutely brilliant! Thank you
Your a life saver. Thanks Mike
Thanks for the great tip. Always have a problem with my backhoe attachment.
Great video Mike
Great Explanation! Thank you!
Great idea Mike
I hit “like”, then watch. I’ve never been wrong.
Thanks Mark, say hi to Mike for me!
For less than the price of that adapter hose you can buy a small tool that looks like pliers that is designed to release the pressure from Pioneer couplers. I keep a pair in the tractor's toolbox.
Can you post a link to said tool? That would be super helpful!
Great idea!
nice hint...I have already seen these issues in my farm implements..as a newbie
You can also shut your tractor off and turn the key back on and hit your controls to release the pressure.
Great Idea
English Ivy. It laughs at any herbicide I have tried. I managed to kill mine off by flail mowing and then cutting it back again every week all last summer whenever leaves popped out again.
Great video 🤠
Great idea.
Good idea! 🚜🪵👍🏼🇱🇷
Good trick Mike
Great idea!!!!
Mike, you always have great words of wisdom on tractors! I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Another good video mike. but maybe ought to offer them in your store save us from having to go to the store and figure it all out.
Great idea!
Another good video, Mike.
A few words to the wise from an old farmer:
Hydraulic fittings and hoses my have different threads that look similar. Some are tapered pipe thread and some are straight thread that seal with an o-ring. I’ve seen enough boogered threads caused by people (some in dealerships) who didn’t know what they were doing.
Not all Pioneer type couplings are compatible with ISO couplings. Some are. Avoid Chinese knock-offs like the plague.
Flat-face couplers used on Case skidsteers are not compatible with nearly identical couplers used by Bobcat.
Hope this helps.
I'll second the CNH couplers being different. If memory serves me right the Case/New Holland flat face fitting face is ever so slightly larger than the "standard" bobcat style. Found this out when I sold a brush cutter with a NH C232 compact track loader. Good point to bring up.
Good idea.
Brilliant 👏 👏 👏 👏 thank you
good idea
These 2 coupling videos are terrific! I have been sharing them with all my construction equipment buddies. I do have a question - what is the best method for cleaning old, built-up gunk out of a female pioneer coupling? I inherited several implements with pioneer connectors that have been sitting and have a lot of gunk built-up that have been trying (unsuccessfully) to clean. I'm thinking it may be simpler to just replace the lines and connectors.
Making too much sense Mike! Aloha!
Mike, I just went through a head scratching attempt to connect my grapple flat-faced couplers that had pressure build up on both ends of the line and I was getting super frustrated. Needless to say, I was not able to join the couplers until I used a Skid Steer Solutions hand clamp pressing tool that enabled me to get them attached. The tool cost $85 and finally worked. The tool is called the QC Mate Quick Coupler Hand Clamp. I made a video (not posted yet) using the QC Mate hand clamp to attach the hydraulic lines. It wasn't as smooth-going as on the creator's advertisement video but it ultimately relieved the hydraulic pressure which allowed me to eventually connect the lines. Thanks for your idea to create a quick-connect hose to purge the line between grapple hook-ups. Have a fine weekend. Appreciate your advice.
$85 for the tool seems pretty outrageous........
Great!
Great tip Mike, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Hi Mike, when you were doing the video about hydraulic couplers I suggested to my computer screen that it would be a good idea to make up some adapters. Don't know about ESP but we are on the same wave length with this job. This is a great video and I enjoyed it a lot. Thanks! Greetings from Victoria, Australia.
I actually do mind reading on the side.
Good idea. Royal Brass makes adapters that do the same thing, but without the hose. Part numbers EAS-500 & SAE-500. But they’re kind of pricey. Love your channel!
The EAS-500 and SAE-500 are Pioneer brand adapters. Royal Brass also carries the Dixon brand and those part numbers are 4HTAG4 and 4AGHT4. As Small-Time Farmer says, these adapters are extremely handy and a no hoses to build.
Thank you for the Pioneer connector tip. Every time I go to hook up my grapple, I have pressure build up.
what do they do different on larger ag tractors? on my Kubota M7 I just press the pioneer fitting in, use the implement and tug on it and it comes out. press it in, tug it out. both done 1 handed, never have to be forced.
Hay Mike could you get the mechanic's out and do a vidio about cutting the hydraulic lines to add rear controls .
Why do you need an adapter coupler to connect the hydraulic coupler? Will they not thread directly to the hose?
I have a new Holland TL100 2 wheel drive. The PTO is self engaging (manual lever inside cab for PTO) when I push in clutch it will disengage. When I release clutch it self engages. Opinion?
At work we have a small three port ball valve with a bottle fasted on the middle port . Two hose like you have with quick connects . You just turn the ball valve handle and dumps oil pressure into the bottle . No mess no hitting anything with hammers or rags etc . When plastic bottle gets full over few dumps you just empty it saving the oil .
What a great idea!!!
@@TractorMike You can just use a tee fitting with two female quick connects direct too the tee also and put a single small ball valve direct on the middle port with a short dump hose for bottle or can . It’s cheaper and simple way . Most hoses on grapples are long enough that will give simple radius connecting . No need too put short hose on tee with the quick connect s . 👍
Stephen, Is there you can send a drawing or picture of it??? what size of valve?
Sure wish you could post a pic of this device!
Mike, another informative video but I have a question. As I recall, some years ago there was a tool to relieve hydraulic system pressure. It resembled a pair of pliers with one jaw, being U-shaped, slid in behind the collar. The other jaw would depress the ball of the male end. Haven't seen one in some time, though. Thanks.
The tool is still available. It used to be hand made by Waite's Tools but it was very hard to contact them. A new company has taken over the production of the tools and they are readily available in a variety of sizes. I keep a pair in my tractor toolbox. Check out... www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-tools/
Hey Mike thanks for the tip. I couldn’t quite tell. Were you were alternating between male and female couplings on those two pigtails that you built.
Might have been a wire jerked loose underneath by something you were bush hogging. I'd crawl under the tractor and see if there's not a wire hanging down.
Enjoy your channel Mike vary informative. Your thoughts on just using a union to covert the hydraulic fittings?
Jim, do you mean all pipe no hose? That would work.
@@TractorMike That's what I was thinking.. As a stroke survivor with only one good hand. Summer time I do haul 8-9 loads of fill sand. I load my trailer then hook it up to the tractor. Some things pushing the male end in and pushing the female lock open with one hand can be a pain!
Mike, thanks for the great tip. What is the red spring arm that holds the hydraulic lines up and out of the way?
That's a TAMEit. One of the best inventions ever!
@@TractorMike thank you for replying but where can I get one? Do you have a link? I wasn’t able to find one on line. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Dwayne, shoot me an email at mike@asktractormike.com and I'll get you fixed up.
This might be dumb, but can the tool assist with disconnecting them?
Or put a tee into the hose on the implement and put a valve on it to open when it has psi
Dunno if you've done it but Maybe occasionally mention the danger of loss of limb even life from a hydraulic high-pressure pinhole in your skin it never seems like much at the moment but the anti-corrosion stuff they put in hydro oil causes necrosis of the flesh. Ya gotta get a surgeon to dig it all out before it destroys you.
Thanks Mike!! As a newer Farmer, not from a Farming family, I've stumbled my way through most of this with our IH674. And I was so glad to see the tap you showed with the Pioneer is exactly what I figured out on my own to relieve the pressure when hooking up the bucket.
It looks like one of the couplers is leaking nowadays and I need to replace it. How does one go about replacing the coupler (the end coming from the bucket) without hydraulic fluid flowing out? Also...the hoses are really quite worn and I should consider replacing those as well. Do I remove them, measure the lengths and then head over to a Tractor Supply or Rural King? Are there common sizes or do you end up getting a reel of it and cutting hoses to size?
Thanks!
First, relieve all the pressure in the system by letting the bucket down to the ground and wiggling the joystick (or levers) until there's no weight on the hydraulics and then just remove the fitting. There's no way to keep oil from coming out, so have a coffee can handy. You can't really make your own hoses because it takes a special machine to crimp hose ends so they don't leak, but most decent farm supply stores offer pre-cut lengths of hose in 1' increments. I'd measure the hoses you want to replace and get them when you get the new fitting and you can replace all of them at the same time to minimize the oil loss. Also, make sure you get some hydraulic hose thread sealer to put on the threads. The stuff is expensive, but it'll keep you from constantly fighting leaks. Good luck!
@@TractorMike awesome! Thanks...really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question, AND put together all these videos for all of us...newbies, semi-newbies, to folks that have been Farming for years. Great resource and glad I found it!
Tractor mike what is that red coiled thing you have on the bar to keep hydraulic lines out of the way
It's the TameIT: asktractormike.com/product/tame-it-hydraulic-hose-management-device/. A little pricey, but well worth it in my humble opinion.
Any comments about removing flat face couplers that are under pressure making them very hard to disconnect.
Unhooking my tiller drive shaft is a pain. Show a trick on getting drive shaft off. Don't have trouble with Bush Hog only my tiller.
So here’s a hydraulic question. Why does my bucket start dropping after the tractor is turned off? The hydraulic pressure “ bleeds” off and the bucket or pallet forks start lowering. Any help or suggestions ? Thanks
Probably a tiny bit of hydro fluid leaking past seals.
Hey Mike, great idea! Just to clarify, you would need to connect the coupler before the pressure increases in the line, correct?
You are correct. Don't wait!
@@TractorMike great! So then you would need a coupler for each attachment then, right?
Thx for your very helpful vids!
I've always used teflon tape. Is that a no-no with hydraulics? Where do I get the thread sealer?
Teflon can flake off and get into your hydraulic components. Any place that sells hydraulic components should have the thread sealer. The stuff I bought is expensive but it sure works better than pipe joint compound.
Hello Mike. I have a 1975 Ford County tractor that I replaced the backhoe hydraulic hoses on. Once done, I added the missing hydraulic oil and everything works fine, except each movement of the backhoe stops about halfway through. Can you identify the problem there is? Thanks a lot Mike!
Sounds like a hose swapped somewhere. Are you sure you got them back exactly in the right place?
One extra note. As Mike said, make sure you're covering the end with a rag or something when relieving pressure. No matter how good your wife is at washing your clothes, hydraulic fluid sprayed onto your clothes is a permanent thing. Don't ask me how I know. But I have thrown away quite a few sweatshirts in my day.
I just take a wrench and crack a line on the attachment if you can't get em hooked.
Good Idea Mike , but I think you were " Pressured" into this one ! 🤔
Yeah...the term quick couplers my ass. I operate my cousin's Case 321F frontend loader at his car lot, and I am responsible for plowing the premises in the winter months. What I like about the loader is the ability to disconnect and drop the buckets and forks at the push of a button. However! When I want to plow using the snow blade with retractable wings, I need to connect the 'quick' connect hydraulic hoses from the blade to the loader. I struggle to no end to get those bastards on. I have tried many methods in trying to relieve the built up pressure from both loader and snow blade, but those couplers just don't want to go into place easily. Plus! The spacing between both receivers in the loader are too close together that I can't get my hands in to push down with a lot of weight. This is so activating. There's got to be an easier way?
Thanks for the neat trick!!
Isn’t better, and more compact to install a short galvanized nipple between the male and female? So the whole contraption can be compact and be stored in a tool box?
That would work. I'd probably lose it or forget where I put it. Hence, hoses for me.
What Spring is that to keep the hoses out of the way?
That's a TAMEit. Awesome tool for keeping hoses out of the way.
RUclips is putting so many ads in short videos that it is difficult to watch.
Pressure in the attachment is caused by trapped fluid, it increases in pressure due to temperature differential, this causes the oil to expand resulting in the pressure increase. If you fit connect under couplers on the attachment they resolve the attachment problem. They are an ISO 16028 type coupler, that’s the bobcat style flat face coupler. Please don’t release the hydraulic pressure with any of your body or hands. Google oil injection it’s ugly. Be safe and best of luck out there.
Cold water on the hoses. Easy peasy.
Wow! Great idea. Why didn't I think of that??? I may provide that tip in the next video I do about the topic. I'll credit you.
Do you sell these?
No, but you can piece some together at a farm store that handles hydraulic components. We have a place called "Farm and Home" where I live and I got them there.
Could have sworn I saw you about 10 minutes ago in a black SUV in Paris Tennessee. Was that you?
Nope, wasn't me. I'm working in MO today. It's hard to imagine that there's two people on the planet with these freakish good looks.
@@TractorMike Lol
But you still have to connect the Flat faces !! if there is pressure when disconnecting the attachment in the attachment
You are right James, if the attachment hose has a flat face connector under pressure you will not be able to connect it to Mike's adapters. This was my problem. I had to crack open the coupler fitting from the hose to relieve the pressure.
Better off with the pioneer the cost to make that little connector would be close to 100. Keeping them clean before connecting is also a better idea.
There are flat face couplers designed to connect under pressure. They are pricey.
Why didn't you just make a short hose with 2 fittings, and tie the 2 hoses on the attachment together?
Could have done that but I wanted to have access to Pioneer fittings. I may never need them, but they're there if I do.
Drop the mic would you sell these hydraulic hoses to the public I wish you would I need some I'd be willing to pay a good price
forget the hammer which can damage your connectors, buy an Easy Relief Tool from Australia
Mike, is there a reason that tractor tires and rims are bolted on instead of using studs with lug nuts like cars and trucks use?
Great question! I have no idea what the answer is. In the ag world it's generally "because we've always done it that way!"
Why don't you just buy connect under presser couplers
Be sure and dont put your thumb over the couplings to relieve any pressure. Use the hammer. Google hydraulic injection and u will see why.
As usual... Marketing
Real farmers have all their coveralls oil stained. It's like tye dye, only smelly and not so pretty.
Hoses are just way too complex for most people. They should be banned.
Wasted 8 minutes