damn that's crazy that oem retainers can fail like that. I like that u guy pulled that pan to inspect everything, it shows no cut corners. that's legit/effort. 🤘🤙✊
John: Reality setting in as all the S2K's still on the road are getting there with age and wear on mechanical bits. Miss my white car, but time doesn't wait for us. As always, well done 👍
Would be great if you could do a video on how to get the clutch pedal out. I am going to replace my clutch master cylinder and slave next week because I am off for March break. The leaking from the master cylinder rusted by clutch arm. I want to sand off all the rust and repaint it while I do the master cylinder and slave. Love your content by the way. Thanks for the great content.
I would recommend doing intake and exhaust. Not much more labor and parts to both. We’ve seen a few intake and exhaust retainers fail to not want to chance it.
Could you please do a ABS job on the S2? recently my ABS came on, but it doesn't say on permanently.. it goes away and comes back on throughout the day.. Senor issue? fuse? the abs module itself?
That is the hardest job to figure out. Unfortunately we don’t have the space to keep it long enough to find the problem. Often requires many hours to recreate the issue.
John, New viewer and I really appreciate your helpful videos and Insite for the S2K. I see that the Honda TCT is a problem, do you recommend a better aftermarket option?
Over the last 15+ years, the only issues we see with the OEM TCT is from lack of frequent oil changes. The oil doesn’t circulate very well in this area and is evident when disassembled. The oil is thick and smelly inside it. We don’t see many problems among our customers that are more involved with regular oil changes, even our track guys.
I’ve never seen B series retainers fail on a stock set up like AP1 retainers. If you’re upgrading cams, I would do springs and retainers at the same time.
John, which would be more cost effective from your point of view: Re-do the bottom end of that S2000 or go with a K swap? I'm thinking longevity and performance...
@@reidmitchell1980 TSX cams you can go with factory parts. I don’t see issues with the K series retainers. For drop in cams, I would double check with the manufacturer as they usually test them and will have the answer.
How long / how many miles had it been since the AP1 car shown here was modified with forced induction? Also, had the VTEC engagement point been changed in that car?
What do we have to do as a community to get a full tutorial on soft to replacement from LHT? Your shifter rebuild and all your other technical vids are so helpful especially for us here in California!
There’s some write ups on how to do it. It’s a long process and to film it would double the actual install time and several hours of editing. Unfortunately ours videos don’t get the views for the time to invest.
@@VirtualGuth I don’t look at that way. Our RUclips channel is to share the ethics and quality work we provide. Unless the video gets 50k+ it wouldn’t pay for lunch. Lol.
@@DrunkenVtec Yeah, I've done a soft-top replacement in the past, long before RUclips was around. But there are generally specifics unique to each car that are helpful to know about. I just saw the other guy ask the question. I figured since LHT accepted money to work on the Grandpa Type R and made a video about it, they might do the same for a video that would actually help out a whole bunch of people rather than just the one.
I take it you believe the ap1 retainers fail from normal use? I always understood that the AP1 retainer cracking and failure is caused when the motor is mechanically over rev'd. No? Seems like that motor may have been mechanically over rev'd causing all the damage you see.
I don’t have a 100% definitive answer. Over the last 20 years we’ve noticed the AP1 wear more , especially on the very outer edge that the spring contacts. Over rev will for sure increase the failure rate, but even 200k+ mile AP2 retainers don’t seem to fail.
@@LHTPerformance Honestly, I think ap1 retainers will last forever as long as the engine is not mechanically over rev'd. I've never heard of a retainer failure without an over rev. Sure looks to me like that motor you worked on was mechanically over rev'd.
@@robgerety We’ve seen 20 + motors with cracking retainers. Even changing them as preventative we see them very thin on the edges. Over the past 20 years we’ve changed around 100 sets and on the non cracked retainers, we do see them wear and very thin that would increase the chances of cracking. I’ve never seen AP2 retainers have issues so I think it’s definitely peace of mind when watching the tach hit higher rpm’s. Many S2000s do get over rev’d , a failed retainers will usually destroy a motor. It’s a terrible thing to see.
I vote yes. Sometimes the damage from a money shift isn't catastrophic. If it happened to me, I would pull the valve cover and check for low valves. PS The oils were quite dirty.
I’m not very mechanical incline but I can do my own oil changes,brake jobs, even did my own valve adjustment on my s2000 a couple times. I don’t drive it very often but I noticed lately every time I do a cold start I get a vibration from the engine that you can feel inside the cabin and after it warms up the vibration is gone. During the vibrstion the engine sounds like piston slap. Are there any signs or symptoms of possible failing retainers? Thanks in advance.
If remember you were in talk with a company to make to make a flywheel and clutch combo with 15 to 20% more surface area for s2000 what ever happened to it
@@LHTPerformance to bad I would like to see if something like that would help increase max torque load compacity and by how much more by number of foot pounds I find think like fascinating for my own knowledge
@@dannyrivas5125 The FX300 and ACT/OEM do a great job. I don’t want to re invent the wheel without someone else to back it. It would be an expensive project
damn that's crazy that oem retainers can fail like that. I like that u guy pulled that pan to inspect everything, it shows no cut corners. that's legit/effort. 🤘🤙✊
John: Reality setting in as all the S2K's still on the road are getting there with age and wear on mechanical bits. Miss my white car, but time doesn't wait for us. As always, well done 👍
Would be great if you could do a video on how to get the clutch pedal out. I am going to replace my clutch master cylinder and slave next week because I am off for March break. The leaking from the master cylinder rusted by clutch arm. I want to sand off all the rust and repaint it while I do the master cylinder and slave. Love your content by the way. Thanks for the great content.
Any dyno video on the Greddy turbo setup? Wondering if it is the newest version with a Garrett turbo.
I might've missed it but what's that cylinder strapped to the exhaust?
With the oem retainers having issues I would just do steel retainers front BC or etc and never worry about it again
i’m getting my ap1 head rebuilt. do you recommend replacing the valve spring seats?
You won’t know until the head is completely stripped and the seats are cut. Your machine shop be able to determine that.
mine failed under 25lbs boost on a 30R. engine did not fair well
Around what price range should one expect to pay to replace AP1 (intake side) valve retainers/keepers with AP2 valve retainers?
I would recommend doing intake and exhaust. Not much more labor and parts to both. We’ve seen a few intake and exhaust retainers fail to not want to chance it.
This only happens because of over revving no?
Could you please do a ABS job on the S2? recently my ABS came on, but it doesn't say on permanently.. it goes away and comes back on throughout the day.. Senor issue? fuse? the abs module itself?
That is the hardest job to figure out. Unfortunately we don’t have the space to keep it long enough to find the problem. Often requires many hours to recreate the issue.
John, New viewer and I really appreciate your helpful videos and Insite for the S2K. I see that the Honda TCT is a problem, do you recommend a better aftermarket option?
Over the last 15+ years, the only issues we see with the OEM TCT is from lack of frequent oil changes. The oil doesn’t circulate very well in this area and is evident when disassembled. The oil is thick and smelly inside it. We don’t see many problems among our customers that are more involved with regular oil changes, even our track guys.
Great, Thanks I'll stick with the OEM !!!@@LHTPerformance
Great video. Do stock B series retainers have any issues? I'm wondering if I should buy aftermarket replacements.
I’ve never seen B series retainers fail on a stock set up like AP1 retainers. If you’re upgrading cams, I would do springs and retainers at the same time.
@@LHTPerformance Thanks, I appreciate the reply.
I it possible to buy a nachi bearing for a 08 Honda Civic si by it’s self? And if so where?
I don’t keep them. If you order it direct from Honda it will be a Nachi
Ok that’s the sort of sad news we can live with! 😮💨
I wonder if this guy money shifted, my buddy had a similar issue.
You just hit the nail on the head.
John, which would be more cost effective from your point of view: Re-do the bottom end of that S2000 or go with a K swap? I'm thinking longevity and performance...
I would do a mildly built K24. Much more mid range power.
Rotary my man, rotary
@@MrCriminalmischief Nope. Neat idea from an engineering standpoint but just doesn't compete with other more reliable, better designed engines.
@@andydhillon1977
Agreed, i was only joking. My 05 s2000
Still performs flawlessy, while my rx8 is wating for its third engine.
Do you know if the ap1 springs and ap2 retainers work in k20z3 heads with the z3 seats and keepers?
A lot of depends on the cams you’re running
Just either tsx cams or drag cartel drop ins.
@@reidmitchell1980 TSX cams you can go with factory parts. I don’t see issues with the K series retainers. For drop in cams, I would double check with the manufacturer as they usually test them and will have the answer.
How long / how many miles had it been since the AP1 car shown here was modified with forced induction? Also, had the VTEC engagement point been changed in that car?
Around 20k forced induction. Vtec was 4800rpm. The retainers are not affected based on Vtec change over.
I bet dollars to donuts that motor was mechanically over rev'd causing all the damage, including the retainer damage.
@@robgerety they don’t call it a money shift for fun lol
@@robgerety More than likely. But I tend to keep in mind that everything is a compromise.
What do we have to do as a community to get a full tutorial on soft to replacement from LHT? Your shifter rebuild and all your other technical vids are so helpful especially for us here in California!
There’s some write ups on how to do it. It’s a long process and to film it would double the actual install time and several hours of editing. Unfortunately ours videos don’t get the views for the time to invest.
@@LHTPerformance Any idea of how much money would you need to collect from us viewers in order to make such a video worth your time?
It's not hard. I replaced mine a few weeks ago.
@@VirtualGuth I don’t look at that way. Our RUclips channel is to share the ethics and quality work we provide. Unless the video gets 50k+ it wouldn’t pay for lunch. Lol.
@@DrunkenVtec Yeah, I've done a soft-top replacement in the past, long before RUclips was around. But there are generally specifics unique to each car that are helpful to know about. I just saw the other guy ask the question. I figured since LHT accepted money to work on the Grandpa Type R and made a video about it, they might do the same for a video that would actually help out a whole bunch of people rather than just the one.
John how can I order the oem ap2 retainers from?
We get them from Honda
I take it you believe the ap1 retainers fail from normal use? I always understood that the AP1 retainer cracking and failure is caused when the motor is mechanically over rev'd. No? Seems like that motor may have been mechanically over rev'd causing all the damage you see.
I don’t have a 100% definitive answer. Over the last 20 years we’ve noticed the AP1 wear more , especially on the very outer edge that the spring contacts. Over rev will for sure increase the failure rate, but even 200k+ mile AP2 retainers don’t seem to fail.
@@LHTPerformance Honestly, I think ap1 retainers will last forever as long as the engine is not mechanically over rev'd. I've never heard of a retainer failure without an over rev. Sure looks to me like that motor you worked on was mechanically over rev'd.
@@robgerety We’ve seen 20 + motors with cracking retainers. Even changing them as preventative we see them very thin on the edges. Over the past 20 years we’ve changed around 100 sets and on the non cracked retainers, we do see them wear and very thin that would increase the chances of cracking. I’ve never seen AP2 retainers have issues so I think it’s definitely peace of mind when watching the tach hit higher rpm’s. Many S2000s do get over rev’d , a failed retainers will usually destroy a motor. It’s a terrible thing to see.
Damn sad news there.
Do a swap
Was this vehicle over revved? Or do you think this was just from age?
It hard to say. The AP1 retainers are noticeably thinner than the AP2s. We see them worn or starting to crack many times.
I vote yes. Sometimes the damage from a money shift isn't catastrophic. If it happened to me, I would pull the valve cover and check for low valves. PS The oils were quite dirty.
Almost certainly a case of mechanical over rev.
I’m not very mechanical incline but I can do my own oil changes,brake jobs, even did my own valve adjustment on my s2000 a couple times.
I don’t drive it very often but I noticed lately every time I do a cold start I get a vibration from the engine that you can feel inside the cabin and after it warms up the vibration is gone. During the vibrstion the engine sounds like piston slap. Are there any signs or symptoms of possible failing retainers? Thanks in advance.
If remember you were in talk with a company to make to make a flywheel and clutch combo with 15 to 20% more surface area for s2000 what ever happened to it
We couldn’t put anything together. It’s too expensive for us to make a minimum run of them.
@@LHTPerformance to bad I would like to see if something like that would help increase max torque load compacity and by how much more by number of foot pounds I find think like fascinating for my own knowledge
@@dannyrivas5125 The FX300 and ACT/OEM do a great job. I don’t want to re invent the wheel without someone else to back it. It would be an expensive project