I just put a roll through my mother's 1960s Voigtlander Vito B. It has a 50/3.5 Color Skopar lens and I have to say I was pretty impressed by the results (HP5+ at 400). Recommended if you can get your hands on one!
Hi you have given me such great advice, thanks for that. I have a Kodak Cresta 120 6x6 film Camera and it has just one speed one fortieth of a second no B and F14 lens only. The limitations are a challenge of cause, and so to cut down on exposures I use filters. For slower speeds I just fire the shutter again and again if I need to. Low quality but lots of fun.
I use a Kodak Tourist with the Anaston lens for most of my “wandering around” photos. Ilford HP5+ rerolled on 620 spools. It’s a great camera that folds up to fit in my jacket pocket and doesn’t take long to learn sunny 16 exposure and estimating distances. The 6x9 format gives large enough contact prints to easily see.
Haha the new intro gave me a chuckle. Hmm as far as cameras I use go. I try to use my Chamonix 45F2 whenever I can. I really fell in love with a Yashica Mat I picked up, but haven't been able to use it much as it needed a CLA so it's in the shop. Super duper fun camera to walk around with though (much lighter than, say, my Bronica SQ). I think it'll be my go-to walk-about film camera (as opposed to just a 35mm SLR).
Terrific video kind sir. Keeping the 120/620 film effort in mind, I'd love to see you make a few photographs using something like a Ansco Viking 6.3 folding camera. Thanks for your most excellent RUclips channel. You've helped my darkroom work a ton.
I don’t have one of those. I have an Argus 75 tlr I’m going to use, and two 35mm cameras. One is a Kodak Pony 35 with full exposure controls, and an Argus C3.
Great video! I would think the softness is due in part to shooting handheld at such a slow speed (?). Anyway, love the technical lean of this channel. Also nice to see an outdoor shoot.
The lens is inside the camera, visible from the rear when you have the back off, not the flat glass surface accessible from the front. Focal length is more like 75-80 mm, and f/13 is closer to correct. With the partial overcast and low sun on your shoot, however, you were close to three stops below Sunny 16 conditions, or just about correctly exposing with ISO 125. I'll watch the rest of the video to see how well the negatives come out in speed-losing ABC Pyro. BTW, these cameras were built to use pre-1960 ASA 64 Verichrome Pan or ASA 40 Kodacolor X (which films became ASA 125 and 80, repectively, when ASA changed their testing standard in the late 1950s), so the Plus-X you loaded *should be* just right for the camera (though there's about a stop of "safety margin" built in, too). Okay, after watching to the image analysis -- your description of barrel distortion and fuzziness in the corners makes me wonder if someone hasn't reversed the lens in your camera. I have two of these, and they're sharp to the corners (at reasonable magnification) with zero distortion to my eye. The meniscus lens (accessible by removing the film carrier in the back of the camera) should be concave toward the aperture and shutter; if it's not, your best focal distance of 10-12 feet will be changed to about 5 feet (due to change in focal length when the lens is reversed), you'll see field curvature that will manifest as off-center blur, and you'll have barrel distortion.
The lens is not reversed. I have three of these cameras and all produce images like these. I chose the cleanest one of the bunch. Since it is a simple landscape lens from a single meniscus element, I’m not surprised it isn’t sharp. I never claimed the glass in front of the aperture was the lens. In fact, since it is a landscape design, performance would be worse if it were. The aperture was measured with calipers from the entrance pupil as described in “Photographic Facts and Formulas” and the shutter speed was determined with a Calumet shutter speed tester. My choice of film and developer were based on these factors. The original camera manual lists Plus-X as a film for use in this camera under certain lighting conditions, but those conditions were different than what I was under.
I read that too. Kodak made a close up lens attachment called the Close Up Attachment Lens #13. You could also use a 1inch to Series V slip in adapter and use series v close up filters. The #13 provides a focus distance of 42 inches. I talked about this while filming, but cut it out while editing because it didn’t fit anywhere fluidly.
I would have liked to see a few scans from your negatives. Your prints were too far away from the camera to get a good look at them. I just got a couple of Hawkeye cameras to test with Ilford Delta 100 film. Can you post a few to Instagram or something similar? Thanks.
I used to love putting 120 through old cameras and I have a bunch since when I was fairly young my dads buddy used to get them for me from the thrift store he worked at. The Hawkeye always performed really decent with 100 speed film indoors. I've run some 35mm in them too and it works if you can get spacers set on the take up real and I belive you can just wedge a 35mm cartrage in the fresh spool side. Block the red window in the back with a few layers of electrical tape. Hardest part is getting the film tension and tracking of it right. The films never going to to sit totally flat over the big opening in the back and the bakelite the cameras made if is somewhat reflective so light bounces around in there pretty good without the backing paper on the film and you get some funky results. But totaly worth it, you can make some fun looking results, mostly good for wide landscape stuff and pretty fun with color film. Of course this must have been over 10 years since I tried it so it's mostly out of memory what I said. I think you can even get 2 rolls of 2 different 35mm films side by side in a 616 box camera
My mother in law has a baby brownie special and I'm looking to clean it up. What is the best thing I can use to clean everything so we can use it again
@@TheNakedPhotographer As I recall, 116/616 is 70mm wide, (used to be marked as 2 3/4 x 3 3/4 frame). There are 3D printed adapters to simplify loading 120 film in 116 and 616 cameras (different adapters, because the spools were different like 120/620), but it's a little tricky because you have to block off the red window and wind by counting turns. If you have two spools, you can also load regular 70mm double perf film and shoot into the sprockets, but unless you also have backing paper, you'll have the same issue with having to advance blind. If you're a real masochist, you can make backing paper by taping two strips of 120 backing side by side and apply your own number track at the correct position (just tape with numbers written on will work).
No tripod mount on the camera. No exposure control available, so a meter is pointless. You can use Nd filters and contrast filters, but you need to add a 25.5mm to Series V filter adapter to hold them.
@@TheNakedPhotographer problems are there to be solved. I have a Box Brownie (4) where I use a larger elastic band to attach it to a tripod, I use a light meter to inform me what is the current exposure with the film I am using, I then use a ND filter (or sometimes a contrast filter) to reduce the overall exposure to bring it down to the aperture and shutter speed of the Box Brownie, approximately 1/30 @ f11.
Well it will make sense to show a close up of the picture you took... Not to tell us it's all cameron... I think everybody knows that already... I simply watch the video to see the quality of pictures this camera take... And in the end you didn't show nothing.. You just howed the picture in your hand at a distance. . That made absolutely no sense.
Young man - this is how Brownie Hawkeye owners handled exposure: if you're outside snap the shutter, if inside use a flashbulb. Mixing up ABC for N-1 development? Why not use a normal developer and shorten the development time a bit? Film isn't this difficult. One stop is nothing. The whole purpose of the Brownie and roll film was to make photography simple!
I just put a roll through my mother's 1960s Voigtlander Vito B. It has a 50/3.5 Color Skopar lens and I have to say I was pretty impressed by the results (HP5+ at 400). Recommended if you can get your hands on one!
Shooting outside was a welcomed change of pace. Thanks for providing great content!!
Love this snapshot camera!
Love this video! Old cameras are amazing and seeing them used again is wonderful! Keep it up!
Hi you have given me such great advice, thanks for that. I have a Kodak Cresta 120 6x6 film Camera and it has just one speed one fortieth of a second no B and F14 lens only. The limitations are a challenge of cause, and so to cut down on exposures I use filters. For slower speeds I just fire the shutter again and again if I need to. Low quality but lots of fun.
Shot mine awhile ago. Did a video. Used Ilford Delta 100. Did not do to bad even though it was in doors.
I use a Kodak Tourist with the Anaston lens for most of my “wandering around” photos. Ilford HP5+ rerolled on 620 spools. It’s a great camera that folds up to fit in my jacket pocket and doesn’t take long to learn sunny 16 exposure and estimating distances. The 6x9 format gives large enough contact prints to easily see.
cool vid, fancy shirt.
Haha the new intro gave me a chuckle.
Hmm as far as cameras I use go. I try to use my Chamonix 45F2 whenever I can. I really fell in love with a Yashica Mat I picked up, but haven't been able to use it much as it needed a CLA so it's in the shop. Super duper fun camera to walk around with though (much lighter than, say, my Bronica SQ). I think it'll be my go-to walk-about film camera (as opposed to just a 35mm SLR).
Terrific video kind sir. Keeping the 120/620 film effort in mind, I'd love to see you make a few photographs using something like a Ansco Viking 6.3 folding camera. Thanks for your most excellent RUclips channel. You've helped my darkroom work a ton.
I don’t have one of those. I have an Argus 75 tlr I’m going to use, and two 35mm cameras. One is a Kodak Pony 35 with full exposure controls, and an Argus C3.
Great video! I would think the softness is due in part to shooting handheld at such a slow speed (?). Anyway, love the technical lean of this channel. Also nice to see an outdoor shoot.
The lens is inside the camera, visible from the rear when you have the back off, not the flat glass surface accessible from the front. Focal length is more like 75-80 mm, and f/13 is closer to correct. With the partial overcast and low sun on your shoot, however, you were close to three stops below Sunny 16 conditions, or just about correctly exposing with ISO 125. I'll watch the rest of the video to see how well the negatives come out in speed-losing ABC Pyro.
BTW, these cameras were built to use pre-1960 ASA 64 Verichrome Pan or ASA 40 Kodacolor X (which films became ASA 125 and 80, repectively, when ASA changed their testing standard in the late 1950s), so the Plus-X you loaded *should be* just right for the camera (though there's about a stop of "safety margin" built in, too).
Okay, after watching to the image analysis -- your description of barrel distortion and fuzziness in the corners makes me wonder if someone hasn't reversed the lens in your camera. I have two of these, and they're sharp to the corners (at reasonable magnification) with zero distortion to my eye. The meniscus lens (accessible by removing the film carrier in the back of the camera) should be concave toward the aperture and shutter; if it's not, your best focal distance of 10-12 feet will be changed to about 5 feet (due to change in focal length when the lens is reversed), you'll see field curvature that will manifest as off-center blur, and you'll have barrel distortion.
The lens is not reversed. I have three of these cameras and all produce images like these. I chose the cleanest one of the bunch. Since it is a simple landscape lens from a single meniscus element, I’m not surprised it isn’t sharp. I never claimed the glass in front of the aperture was the lens. In fact, since it is a landscape design, performance would be worse if it were. The aperture was measured with calipers from the entrance pupil as described in “Photographic Facts and Formulas” and the shutter speed was determined with a Calumet shutter speed tester. My choice of film and developer were based on these factors. The original camera manual lists Plus-X as a film for use in this camera under certain lighting conditions, but those conditions were different than what I was under.
The print in your right hand looks good. I heard you can flip the lenses on those cameras and it’s pretty macro with crazy distortion on the edges
I read that too. Kodak made a close up lens attachment called the Close Up Attachment Lens #13. You could also use a 1inch to Series V slip in adapter and use series v close up filters. The #13 provides a focus distance of 42 inches. I talked about this while filming, but cut it out while editing because it didn’t fit anywhere fluidly.
I would have liked to see a few scans from your negatives. Your prints were too far away from the camera to get a good look at them. I just got a couple of Hawkeye cameras to test with Ilford Delta 100 film. Can you post a few to Instagram or something similar? Thanks.
Would love to see a 127 Vest Pocket Kodak used. Can you cut and roll your own film or do you have to just buy it? Keep the videos coming. Great work!
I think a couple companies cut and roll it for you at a premium price.
Great video! Have you considered loading 35mm into an old 620 camera or other old film camera? Just a thought.
I used to love putting 120 through old cameras and I have a bunch since when I was fairly young my dads buddy used to get them for me from the thrift store he worked at. The Hawkeye always performed really decent with 100 speed film indoors. I've run some 35mm in them too and it works if you can get spacers set on the take up real and I belive you can just wedge a 35mm cartrage in the fresh spool side. Block the red window in the back with a few layers of electrical tape. Hardest part is getting the film tension and tracking of it right. The films never going to to sit totally flat over the big opening in the back and the bakelite the cameras made if is somewhat reflective so light bounces around in there pretty good without the backing paper on the film and you get some funky results. But totaly worth it, you can make some fun looking results, mostly good for wide landscape stuff and pretty fun with color film. Of course this must have been over 10 years since I tried it so it's mostly out of memory what I said. I think you can even get 2 rolls of 2 different 35mm films side by side in a 616 box camera
😂 another gem from Naded!
try Tmax 100 works well in that camera
My mother in law has a baby brownie special and I'm looking to clean it up. What is the best thing I can use to clean everything so we can use it again
I use lens cleaner and tips in the lens, the rest may need leather conditioner and other appropriate methods
I have a 💯 year old Kodak Pocket Camera unfortunately it uses 118 film which is like 70mm sadly I haven't been able to find any. What about you?
I have never seen that size. I have an old Brownie that takes 116 though. I’ve not seen that either.
@@TheNakedPhotographer hmm maybe it's 116. It's been so long since I checked. I gave up on it.
@@TheNakedPhotographer As I recall, 116/616 is 70mm wide, (used to be marked as 2 3/4 x 3 3/4 frame). There are 3D printed adapters to simplify loading 120 film in 116 and 616 cameras (different adapters, because the spools were different like 120/620), but it's a little tricky because you have to block off the red window and wind by counting turns. If you have two spools, you can also load regular 70mm double perf film and shoot into the sprockets, but unless you also have backing paper, you'll have the same issue with having to advance blind. If you're a real masochist, you can make backing paper by taping two strips of 120 backing side by side and apply your own number track at the correct position (just tape with numbers written on will work).
What about a tripod, a light meter and some ND or contrast filters to control the exposure.
No tripod mount on the camera. No exposure control available, so a meter is pointless. You can use Nd filters and contrast filters, but you need to add a 25.5mm to Series V filter adapter to hold them.
@@TheNakedPhotographer problems are there to be solved. I have a Box Brownie (4) where I use a larger elastic band to attach it to a tripod, I use a light meter to inform me what is the current exposure with the film I am using, I then use a ND filter (or sometimes a contrast filter) to reduce the overall exposure to bring it down to the aperture and shutter speed of the Box Brownie, approximately 1/30 @ f11.
If I were going to go to all that work, I would just find a way to attach the lens to a large format shutter and put it on my Crown Graphic.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Therein lies the pleasure of analogue photography.
I would love to know how to re-roll 120 to make it 620??
Then check out last weeks video!
The Naked Photographer Perfect! Not sure how I missed that one! Thank you!
I shot one of these with 200 ISO on a rather sunny day... is there any special instruction I can ask my photo developer to try to salvage it??
I doubt it. They are not likely to use special developers so you will just have dense negatives
The Naked Photographer Ah ok :( I shot with color negative, so it has a decent latitude. Would pulling help or would they be fried either way?
I wouldn’t worry about it. It will be a little overexposed, but that’s not the worse thing that could ever happen.
The Naked Photographer ok, thanks for the reply
Is there an advantage to using pyro to cut the film speed vs just pulling your film in like, d-76 or something?
Full development instead of shortened. Personal preference I suppose.
Well it will make sense to show a close up of the picture you took... Not to tell us it's all cameron... I think everybody knows that already... I simply watch the video to see the quality of pictures this camera take... And in the end you didn't show nothing.. You just howed the picture in your hand at a distance. . That made absolutely no sense.
Young man - this is how Brownie Hawkeye owners handled exposure: if you're outside snap the shutter, if inside use a flashbulb. Mixing up ABC for N-1 development? Why not use a normal developer and shorten the development time a bit? Film isn't this difficult. One stop is nothing. The whole purpose of the Brownie and roll film was to make photography simple!
Why are you digging up three year old videos to make negative comments?