Steel for making knives Australia: The best steel for beginners!!

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  • Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024

Комментарии • 61

  • @DangerDaiman
    @DangerDaiman 4 года назад +1

    As a young knife maker that’s been playing around with scrap steels I’ve found/bought For a few years now, I’ve been wanting to get into it more, really useful video! Keep it up 👍🏻

  • @aidenonfire
    @aidenonfire 5 лет назад +2

    Great information. Simply and honestly delivered. Nice work mate

  • @Cynax377
    @Cynax377 3 года назад

    Thanks for the advice. Just starting out and I've been looking for a while for a good steel to start with. A lot of people get to in depth with all the different kinds of steel. Ima go with 1085 thanks to the advice!

  • @chrispalffy3511
    @chrispalffy3511 4 года назад

    Wow buddy, clear and concise. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  4 года назад

      Thanks Chris, I am currently building a new workshop so hopefully I can start into the videos again when it is done.

  • @gazzabro55
    @gazzabro55 3 года назад +1

    The knowledge is appreciated

  • @joesmith6199
    @joesmith6199 2 года назад +1

    truck springs are usually 5160, which is a very good steel for beginners..You can of course get new 5160 from spring makers.. heat treat temps are not real critical. Non-magnetic is hot enough, although 825 or 835 might be better. you *can* use a MAPP torch shooting into a small firebrick enclosure for a forge but you'll go broke buying those 400-gram bottles.far better to build a real forge.

  • @TheWolfe83
    @TheWolfe83 6 лет назад

    Hey great video, answered a lot of questions. I have been making small knife designs from old files for practice and I’m now going to try the heat treatment route with 1085 the way you described! Thanks

  • @mauricehollands2425
    @mauricehollands2425 4 года назад +1

    Whats the best way to check if your treatment has worked and what differences in hardness are required for dfferent types of blade. Is there a book?

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  4 года назад

      Hi Maurice,
      Experience my friend. Testing your method by producing test pieces and seeing what they do in different situations. You are right on the money that the hardness and edge geometry need to be complimentary to get the highest performance. The best way to test hardness is to use a rockwell hardness test machine but they can cost thousands of dollars. If you are just starting out have a look for Rockwell test file kits. They will give you a rough quantitative result. they can be purchased for a under $200 dollars. The best thing to do would be master one type of steel to limit your variables. Use one steel and make kitchen knives and hunting knives from it. Make sure you write down how you heat treated each one for later reference if you test them. And try and standardise how you test them. A great place to research would be www.knifesteelnerds.com

  • @ChristopherGonzagaRev
    @ChristopherGonzagaRev Год назад

    Are you around Victoria? Do you do custom made sword? How much for one but I do it in your shop but I pay full price.

  • @ernestobarrameda1087
    @ernestobarrameda1087 3 года назад

    How bout the sup9 steel is that exact 5160, is sup9 a good steel?

  • @tom_olofsson
    @tom_olofsson 5 лет назад

    Very well presented.

  • @TheGoldfinchdancerst
    @TheGoldfinchdancerst 4 года назад

    What you think about O1 steel, its one of the fews i can get in my country, i only made one knife so far from a leaf spring, i have a homemade forge from a propane tank, i can get high temperatures i believe.
    thanks in advance.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  4 года назад

      Hi, O1 is a great steel to work with. If you don't know the exact specification of the spring steel I think using O1 to start is the lesser of two evils, because you can find information about exactly how to heat treat it. Be mindful that if you over heat it you will have problems with toughness after hardening. The blade may end up very brittle. With your propane forge see if you can get a temperature probe that will handle forging temps. You want to make sure you can get your forge holding 800-815 degrees for 10 minutes so you can give the O1 the correct soak time. I.e. get the forge to 815 degrees, put the knife in and let the blade get up to 815 degrees and keep it there for 10 minutes before quenching in oil. I am pretty sure Kevin Cashen has a good write up about heat treating O1 on his website if you want to know about normalising and forging temps. I also have a video showing what will happen with O1 steel if it is over heated.

  • @FishingWithWilso
    @FishingWithWilso 3 года назад

    Hey mate great video, I want to buy some steel to make some larger survival/chopper style knives, will I get the most out of 5160/SUP9 by heating past non magnetic and quenching in canola like you would with 1075/84?

    • @FishingWithWilso
      @FishingWithWilso 3 года назад

      I read on creativeman.com that it can be heat treated the same as the other basic carbon steel but I've read conflicting information elsewhere so I'm not sure.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  3 года назад +1

      Hi Wilson, the short answer is no. To properly dissolve and even out the carbides and things like chromium/silicon you will need to soak the steel. I.e. heat it to its autinisation temp and hold it there. I would think depending on the alloy/ thickness it will be between 5-20 minutes. So if you are looking for "the most" out of any steel you need to know its austinitisation temp and soak time to start.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  3 года назад

      Hi Wilson, the short answer is no. To properly dissolve and even out the carbides and things like chromium/silicon you will need to soak the steel. I.e. heat it to its autinisation temp and hold it there. I would think depending on the alloy/ thickness it will be between 5-20 minutes. So if you are looking for "the most" out of any steel you need to know its austinitisation temp and soak time to start.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  3 года назад

      It will definatley harden but you will be leaving some performance on the table. Ill look up the specifics and get back to you.

    • @FishingWithWilso
      @FishingWithWilso 3 года назад

      @@batcountryforge5945 Thanks mate I thought that would be the case

  • @mrlargefries100
    @mrlargefries100 6 лет назад

    hey mate great vid. What steel would you recommend for a beginner wanting to make tools suck as hammers ?

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  6 лет назад

      Suddden Beans Hi 1045 is easily available and suits that job very well.

    • @mrlargefries100
      @mrlargefries100 6 лет назад

      Cool thanks. I live in Australia too. Where would be a good place to buy 1045 and 1075 ?

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  6 лет назад

      Check out artisansupplies.com.au they will have everything you need ;)

  • @barretscott2191
    @barretscott2191 6 лет назад

    This dude is blazed...🔥.

  • @JustTex
    @JustTex 7 лет назад

    I tried heat treating with 2 blow torches on 1075 and still can't get it hot enough and it only a thin chefs knife. Is there any chance you can make a video on how to read the heat treating diagram for 1084 on artisan supplies? the one with the 'temperature' up the side and the 'time-seconds' along the bottom. If the makes sense. Cheers

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  7 лет назад +1

      I'll see if I can put together a summary of the Time Temp Transition diagram.
      What type of torches were you using?

    • @JustTex
      @JustTex 7 лет назад

      cool, the torches are the blue propane ones

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  7 лет назад +1

      Just Tex those are a fair bit smaller than the oxy propane torch I am using in this vid if i am thinking correctly. You may need to insulate one side with kaowool or a heat brick to retain heat while you move the torch around. A small heat treating burner from Artisan Supplies is around $100.

    • @JustTex
      @JustTex 7 лет назад

      yeah i'm been looking at the gas burners on artisans and looks like i might have build a forge and go that way . Cheers

  • @spencerfiorenza2060
    @spencerfiorenza2060 5 лет назад +1

    What if I am buying a forge and I am new to blade smithing

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  5 лет назад

      Hi Spencer, if you are new I would still highly recommend tracking down some 1075 or 1084 as these will give you the best results right out of the forge with just a magnet and cheap vegetable oil. Also Kevin Cashen has released a great DVD on heat treating 1080 and 1084 steel. Do a google search for his DVD and you will be off to a great start.

  • @craigbrown1249
    @craigbrown1249 6 лет назад

    Hi mate. You mentioned the place you get the steel from in this vid. What is called?

  • @GangreneBallbag
    @GangreneBallbag 5 лет назад +1

    you need to clear those cupboards brother, good video btw.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  5 лет назад +1

      Moved to a new workshop just recently so the cupboards have been cleared ;) Thanks mate!

  • @joolion8178
    @joolion8178 5 лет назад +1

    how do i heat treat sup 9

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  5 лет назад +1

      Hi loo I commented on your other question a process for you to follow. Let me know if you need more detail.

    • @joolion8178
      @joolion8178 5 лет назад

      @@batcountryforge5945 thank you so much

  • @jjs811
    @jjs811 7 лет назад

    What about o1 tool steel?

  • @davedreds5905
    @davedreds5905 7 лет назад

    I like your videos. Im starting with 1095, as Ive had advice that its easy to work with. Is there any reason 1095 is more difficult for beginners than 1075 or 1084?

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  7 лет назад

      Dave Dreds it technically requires a faster quench than 1084/1075. So engineered fast quench like Houghtons K will bring out the best in 1095. It puts the steel under a lot of stress though (fast quenching in oil or even water) so your stress releiving and grind eveness need to be on point before hardening. However if you already have the steel and an idea in mind try to make the knife thin, and pre heat your oil if it is a cold day.

  • @rapier01
    @rapier01 6 лет назад

    ahhh finally. sifted through a metric fuk ton of vids to get this unambiguous information. thanks for that mate. my head was nearly done in. one question if you get it after so long... do i need to heat the (canola) oil for quenching 1075? what temp?
    thanks for the no bullshit vid.
    cheers champ...

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  6 лет назад +1

      Depends where you are, you want canola / veg oil to be around 30 degrees in my workshop. It is all about being consistent from one batch to the next though. In Sydney I rarely worry unless it is in the middle of winter.

  • @Bigwingrider1800
    @Bigwingrider1800 5 лет назад +1

    WHAT ABOUT 1095 STEEL....

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  5 лет назад

      Technically 1095 it is a fast quench steel. To get the best results you would need to use an oil like Hoghtons K quench. In thin sections like 2.5mm you will have some sucess using a food oil like peanut oil or vegie oil, the steel will harden but not to the optimal degree and potentially not deep enough to create an edge that will last through many sharpenings.

  • @KurNorock
    @KurNorock 3 года назад

    Q: "The best steel for knife making?"
    A: "That steel that you can't find anywhere."

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  3 года назад

      Where abouts are you?

    • @KurNorock
      @KurNorock 3 года назад

      @@batcountryforge5945 Arizona. I have been looking for 1080/1084 steel for months. I can't even find it online. It's sold out everywhere.
      All I can find is very limited 1075 and plenty of 1095, O1, etc.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  3 года назад

      @@KurNorock If you grab that 1075 and treat it like 1084 to begin with you will be off to a great start.

  • @TheWolfe83
    @TheWolfe83 6 лет назад

    Or 1075

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  6 лет назад +1

      TheWolfe83 1075 has better availability if you don't already have 1084. Heat treat them using 1084 instructions from Kevin Cashen online any you will be fine.

    • @TheWolfe83
      @TheWolfe83 6 лет назад

      Bat Country Forge thanks a lot I will check it out!