I've been airbrushing for 20 years on had made fishing lures made out of resin plastic wood. Thank you so much for your demonstrations on these tutorials. I know it takes a lot of time money and editing to put these tutorials out. I appreciate all your efforts to demonstrate the new materials that are out there on the market saved us all a lot of my thanks so much. Rock on
@@barbatosrex9473hi i have some model color and range of model air. Will be upgrading my mini compressor to 1 with 3L airtank. Just found out about this premium airbrush color, do u recommend replacing my model color and air with this? Or all 3 of them actually not much difference when doing airbrush. On side note i mostly on airbrush on model kit. Thanks
@@leomr1504 well these are designed for remote control car bodies because it's flexible but they do work on plastic as seen here. They biggest problem would be there's a limited color palette with these and not many metallics
@@barbatosrex9473 i see. Ohya i saw ur video on model air airbrushing with 28psi without thinner but only add some flow improver, so i assume model color should also work the same? Also thanks to your video that y i know that my mini compressor not enough psi hence upgrading it to the one with 3L airtank 😁
I'm completely new to airbrushing and your videos helped me out so much! I've picked up the airbrush a few months ago because I needed a good, professional way to finish custom guitar pedals. Compared to the Tamiya LP this paint is on another level of durability: after a few weeks of curing it becomes basically indestructible. The 2k clear I'm using on top is getting scratched way easier and I'm honestly considering using the Vallejo premium urethane clear coat instead. Impressive is the right word, I'm literally stomping on this and it doesn't chip or scratch AT ALL. The only downside is that the standard whites and blacks are basically always out of stock anywhere in my country :(
Thanks for another helpful and enjoyable video mate. I thought your ball adhesion test was a great idea👍 I bought the candy range and I have used it to paint cycling shoes in marbled rainbow candy. I normally use Angelus or Jacquard paints for customizing but wanted to try the candy paints. I put down some adhesion promoter before painting the synthetic material on the shoes and it has stuck to the shoe nicely👍 Cheers ✌️
Fantastic idea with the balls barbatos! I'm glad these did so well! I've been using acrylics untill I can get a proper painting area setup. Definitely going to try and get these.
@@barbatosrex9473 I definitely want to use them unfortunately I just don't have the proper setup yet. I'm currently building my own spray booth and cleaning out a work area in the garage! Ty for all you're helpful videos. I feel alot more prepared to start when I do
Just watching this again after watching it when it came out. I use the Premium Candy Red in a couple of ways. For the Epic Armageddon Eldar I use all Vallejo paints for the Primer, Base Coat and Top Coat. Primer: White Surface Primer, Base Coat: Metal Color Duraluminium, Top Coat: Premium Candy Red. Leaves them an almost metallic red which his enhanced by the Metal Varnish Gloss. Various colors and paint companies for the detail work. For the Adeptus Titanicus Titans and Knights I use all Vallejo paints for the Primer, Base Coat and Top Coat. Primer: White Surface Primer, Base Coat: Metal Color Steel, Top Coat: Premium Candy Red. Leaves them a dark almost metallic red which his enhanced by the Metal Varnish Gloss. Various colors and paint companies for the detail work. It's a really good paint that takes on the final color depending on what base coat you put it over.
I've mostly been using Vallejo Game Colors for a couple of years and they're pretty fragile, sometimes when i work on a piece with a paintbrush, if my hand get a bit sweaty some spots of the paint will come off all the way to the primer. I'm using Duplicolor primer and i havent tried their primer but the common practice is to seal the paint with a protective coat after important layers like the base coat. Bought Vallejo Mecha Varnish to try it out as it claims it's scratch resistant, it does require thinning and some people recommend 3 coats and 24h cure time.
I lived in Madrid for 10 years. They are a Spanish company I believe in Barcelona so it is pronounced Bayeahjho. But who cares. This is a really great test. Really great. I occasionally build kits for fun but I need this information for creating props and costume details for my characters. I’m a narrative figurative artist. The ball tests were an, “Ah, hah.” Moment
First thing first, thanks a lot for your test. Several colors and a bunch of different materials ( I can´t remember any of your previous tests with so many of them...) I´ve got two bottles of varnish and a pair of colors, tested them by brush , average results mainly by not reducing them properly. In a few days I´ll be painting a Tamiya Lunchbox (1/12 RC car, no lexan but hard plastic body) and after watching the awesome finish by airbrush, I know what primer, paint and topcoat to use. Keep the good work, and cheers from Madrid, Spain! P.S: If you want to pronounce Vallejo in good ol´ Spanish, there´s a lot of videos of spanish modellers and painters you can check...
Another possible source of paint mixing objects are small stainless steel hex nuts. They seem to provide more than adequate mixing action in the respective paint pots/bottles. Marine grade stainless is recommended….but I always check with some samples into a dish/container with water……you can add some salt to create a more “severe” rust test environment. P.S. regarding flexibility, as these paints were freshly applied and apparently quite flexible, have you verified that the paint remains flexible after a longer drying interval?
Wonder if the manufacturer is adding amounts of recycled plastic to the virgin resin so that even though they look and function the same, they are now a different chemical that reacts to certain paints. When we reground clean plastic, we were allowed 15% regrind added to the virgin.
Nice to know Spiderman's ball's stand up to a hammering. Joking aside what a great video thank you so much for taking the time to make & share it.👍😷👍🏴
Any opinion on the Testors Acrylic (non model masters) for a noob? I just got a couple sets from HL, going to start spraying it over the weekend hopefully.
2 things: 1- What's the brand of the ball bearings you like in the paints? Maybe where to purchase. I use a non-metallic bead in acrylic paints. 2- When reviewing these kind of paints, why not include model railroad trucks (G scale are large scale). They are made of delrin, which is a slippery plastic known for not holding paint very well. Would a polyurethane paint work on this type of plastic? Garden model railroaders are outside, run in all kinds of weather & in snow with freezing temps. We also fight paint's enemy - UV light. I use Krylon UV resistant clears on my outdoor models, however it goes on thick when going for complete coverage. That metallic blue would look very good on an steam engine boiler which the color is called "Russia Iron".
Hi! Nice video! handy review. Just for general culture. Vallejo is a Spanish Brand, so it should be pronounced something like "Vayeho", you know, similar to "yacht" or "yard"..in Spanish "Ll" and "Y" have the same sound. Cheers!
For the record, I don't own a single bottle of Vallejo Model Paint, I don't like it at all. Their Air and Mecha line is good. But these are a completely different formula from the rest of their line up.
Lover your channel, would you consider as a part of your test painting an army figure or something of that sort to simulate miniature figure painting? would love to see how the reviews you are doing translate to that type of painting where detail retention, matte finishes are preferred over some other qualities.
So, from what I heard (word of mouth), the formula of these is pretty much the same as the Mecha Colors, I haven't tried them yet, but I heard these are pretty much as resistant as those. I'll give them a go later down this year I suppose, I just bought a pack of Acrysions I wanted to try either way and have a ton of both Model Air and Mecha Color vallejo's on the desk waiting to be used too.
Thank you very much for the test. This paint will be my go-to since it is one of the more affordable here. Do you think the consistency from the bottle is okay for brush painting or even pin striping?
I've read that it can be brushed. Not sure about straight out of the bottle, it might need a little thinning. Flow Improver would help to smooth out any brush strokes too
Love this test. I'm wondering now if I could use this on EVA foam that's been primed for cosplay costumes. If it's that durable and won't crack it should work really well.
Mr Barbatos Mr aqueous, Ak real colors and Tamiya acrylic are all compatible and mixeble without any chemical reactions. However have you ever tried mixing different lacquers from different manufacturers? Like Tamiya LP with Mr color and Gaia notes? I know Mrp can be mixed with Mr color.
I see the paint shaker in this video and in an older video, you showed the Badger Battery powered paint stirrer. The clear advantage I see is that you don't "lose" paint by using the shaker you show in this video. Any other advantages? I'm trying to justify the extra cost. I'm a newbie and haven't used either yet, but trying to build my kit now. :) Thanks! :)
Barbatos have you seen the beutiful metallics in the enamel humbrol lineup? Sunset red metallic is a wery beutiful color and their metalcote colors are nice for chipping. If you make a chip to big simply remove with enamel thinners.
I have Humbrol paints here so I'll be doing a video on them for sure. They are good paints for sure. I do like enamels, my personal line of paints is enamels
@@barbatosrex9473 I tested Humbrol metallics yesterday and I thinned them with Tamiya lacquer thinner and just like I thought they dried much much faster. If I had sprayed it with their enamel thinner it would have taken 10-12 days. It took only 1 and a half hour with multiple coats, with one tiny mist coat it dried in a few minutes!
@@statoilbensin2190 for sure, always use a lacquer thinner when using enamels, it works great. Much better results. Same as me Testors and Revell paint videos, I always thin with lacquer. My preference is Mr Leveling Thinner or my newly released Mecha Empire Airforce thinner.
@@barbatosrex9473 Cool, I got the leveling thinner and also the lacquer thinner with retarder from Tamiya and that is the one I use the most. Have you tried it? I think it is pretty similar to the leveling thinner athleast it smells the same.
Mr barbatos does these colours have that same perfume added to it like the other Vallejo and Italeri paints? I think the perfume is added so the paint wont smell latex like Ammo by mig or Citadel paints do when they spray. The perfume Vallejo uses is actually a woman perfume odor.
RC body shells should be cleamed with detergent and the surface scoured before painting. Also, did you remove the protective film from the outside afterwards? Great vids btw.
I've been using Model color in the past, but now I'm trying to switch over to RC color. The only downside I think is the color range, and not much people selling it, its hard to get especially white color, always out of stock.
Yes, once it's fully cured. I haven't had a problem with that. My friend however always puts a clear coat down first as many others do. Always test first as a precaution. I test everything on scrap plastic or spoons before I do everything
I have a big batch of Hobby Mio paints that I will be testing within a week or two 👍 what compressor are you talking about.? Does Hobby Mio make one or the compressor in use?
Hi. I love your vids. I have one question for you. I want to start air brushing my models now. What is the best cheapest way to go? I really respect & need your opinion. Please keep in mind that I have a limited budget. Thanks for you help in advance.🙂
@@richiek6379 OK, go to this site and search "Cool Rooty Tooty with 105-1 Badger Airbrush Kit" spraygunner.com?aff=10 Choose the option no paint. This is absolutely the best price that includes my compressor and airbrush I use every day. Its only $167
@@barbatosrex9473 Aw geez I just lost all I was writing to you. Thanks so much for your advice! I do have a spray booth. Not the one I wanted, but it was a gift. I'll let you know what I'm doing. Again Thanks Bro
Nice review! What varnish do you recommend sealing with, or they don't need to? I wonder if the Premium varnish will work, or the Mecha one. I want to try these on motorcycle helmet :)
I work with vinyl stencils, are Vallejo colours (especially air and mecha line) durable if put and then remove stencils on them? I’m considering using 2k primers and 2k clear coats from Mipa
@@barbatosrex9473 so the other lines are not that durable if you work with vinyl stencils (oramask for example)? I’m new to the airbrush. I need a very durable paint with a wide range of colours, that’s why I was looking to Vallejo’s lines. Or have to check some lacquer paints?
I wonder how that stuff would cover a thin vinyl type material? I have a b9 robot model from lost in space to build, been putting it off after seeing a couple of vids of people saying that paints and primers weren't sticking to it.
Nice video! I have some of Vallejo's other paints and they're pretty good. They're not super durable, though. I'm a little wary of acrylics in general. Lacquer is just so much easier to mess with. Speaking of, I had an idea for something you could test out if you ever get the chance. There's another youtuber who makes toys and what not from scratch. And he found that no matter what paint he used, it would still come off the plastic fairly easily (which is common for acrylics). Well, he was contacted by someone that told him to take the little plastic figures and run then under a low lit blow torch. This would cause something called plastic annealing, which would make the paint stick to the plastic super hard. I was wondering if you might be able to test that out on some gunpla pieces? Unfortunately I don't own a blow torch. XD This is his video on it. I'll link to the relevant part. ruclips.net/video/6Rc4LKMHC74/видео.html If that actually does work on Gunpla it may also work on model cars and other hobby stuff. Could be useful to know!
There's also a product Plastic Adhesive Promoter. Comes in spray cans, even DupliColor makes it. It does a similar thing as the torch, it sort of melts the surface of the plastic helping the paint to stick to difficult plastics. It's mostly used for auto plastic parts
I’m new to the hobby but I’m trying to understand what’s the best for durability, I wanted to try the Vallejo air line but I’m a little bit concerned, especially because I’m going to work with vinyl stencils on it, so I was considering to use automotive 2k primers and clear coat but I still don’t know if it’s better to use water based Colours or lacquer
@@OSEhungover1 createx at spray gunner has numerous paints that go huge ways for the money spent. I imagine if you clear coat those you can get them to last a good while. Been learning the last few months so no honest opinion for longevity yet.
Vallejo make a wide range of colours in this Premium Airbrush line... Standard, metallic, candy, plus specific thinner, retarder and cleaner. Plenty to choose from!
@@statoilbensin2190 Thanks but to help clarify to other readers, actually all these Premium Airbrush Colours use an exterior grade hybrid resin-polyurethane base. To quote Vallejo's information: Premium colours have been formulated with micronized, permanent pigments and an extremely resistant, exterior grade hybrid resin-polyurethane base, which withstands impacts, resists chipping and cracking, as well as direct exposure to heat and outdoor elements without cracking or fading, and is fuel residue proof up to a least 35% Nitro.
BTW, both ways of pronouncing Vallejo were wrong. Vallejo is a Spanish surname. In Spanish LLE is pronounced Ye and JO is pronounced Jo (lije 🎅 laughter), so it is pronounced something like VaYeJo. You could catch a vide from Angel Giraldez to get the pronunciation in Spanish from Spain.
I've been airbrushing for 20 years on had made fishing lures made out of resin plastic wood. Thank you so much for your demonstrations on these tutorials. I know it takes a lot of time money and editing to put these tutorials out. I appreciate all your efforts to demonstrate the new materials that are out there on the market saved us all a lot of my thanks so much. Rock on
Thank you my friend 👍
@@barbatosrex9473hi i have some model color and range of model air. Will be upgrading my mini compressor to 1 with 3L airtank. Just found out about this premium airbrush color, do u recommend replacing my model color and air with this? Or all 3 of them actually not much difference when doing airbrush. On side note i mostly on airbrush on model kit.
Thanks
@@leomr1504 well these are designed for remote control car bodies because it's flexible but they do work on plastic as seen here. They biggest problem would be there's a limited color palette with these and not many metallics
@@barbatosrex9473 i see. Ohya i saw ur video on model air airbrushing with 28psi without thinner but only add some flow improver, so i assume model color should also work the same? Also thanks to your video that y i know that my mini compressor not enough psi hence upgrading it to the one with 3L airtank 😁
@@leomr1504 I prefer their Air line when I airbrush them, be careful not to over thin the Model line. You can use just Flow Improver when thinning it
Finally someone is doing a test of the Vallejo Premium Colors!!! Yes!!!
Impressive paints
Glad to see Vallejo has more durable paint out now..thanks for the test!
I think the ball test is the best durability test I've seen. Good work!
This pretty much solidified my choice of paints to go with as i start working on my Gunpla for custom paints! Thank you for the informative video!
You're welcome my friend 👍
Thank you for this test! That yellow looks nice!
Yes it does
Impressive test methodology! It showed me everything I needed to know about these colours to purchase the right one, thanks a ton!
I'm completely new to airbrushing and your videos helped me out so much! I've picked up the airbrush a few months ago because I needed a good, professional way to finish custom guitar pedals. Compared to the Tamiya LP this paint is on another level of durability: after a few weeks of curing it becomes basically indestructible. The 2k clear I'm using on top is getting scratched way easier and I'm honestly considering using the Vallejo premium urethane clear coat instead. Impressive is the right word, I'm literally stomping on this and it doesn't chip or scratch AT ALL.
The only downside is that the standard whites and blacks are basically always out of stock anywhere in my country :(
I’ll have to try out those metallic colors they came out nice, thanks for the video
Hi great video is there a link for the metal balls that you drop in the paint
Thanks for another helpful and enjoyable video mate. I thought your ball adhesion test was a great idea👍
I bought the candy range and I have used it to paint cycling shoes in marbled rainbow candy. I normally use Angelus or Jacquard paints for customizing but wanted to try the candy paints. I put down some adhesion promoter before painting the synthetic material on the shoes and it has stuck to the shoe nicely👍
Cheers ✌️
Fantastic idea with the balls barbatos! I'm glad these did so well! I've been using acrylics untill I can get a proper painting area setup. Definitely going to try and get these.
If you get a spraybooth I will recomend you solvent based paints.
Solvents are my go to paints for sure
@@barbatosrex9473 I definitely want to use them unfortunately I just don't have the proper setup yet. I'm currently building my own spray booth and cleaning out a work area in the garage! Ty for all you're helpful videos. I feel alot more prepared to start when I do
Just watching this again after watching it when it came out. I use the Premium Candy Red in a couple of ways.
For the Epic Armageddon Eldar I use all Vallejo paints for the Primer, Base Coat and Top Coat. Primer: White Surface Primer, Base Coat: Metal Color Duraluminium, Top Coat: Premium Candy Red. Leaves them an almost metallic red which his enhanced by the Metal Varnish Gloss. Various colors and paint companies for the detail work.
For the Adeptus Titanicus Titans and Knights I use all Vallejo paints for the Primer, Base Coat and Top Coat. Primer: White Surface Primer, Base Coat: Metal Color Steel, Top Coat: Premium Candy Red. Leaves them a dark almost metallic red which his enhanced by the Metal Varnish Gloss. Various colors and paint companies for the detail work.
It's a really good paint that takes on the final color depending on what base coat you put it over.
These look like they would be perfect for customizing toys like Marvel Legends. Thanks for the video.
Had the same idea. They seem the perfect paint to customize or repaint plastic figures!
These would definitely work with those. I checked the paint this morning and it's even more durable than in the video
What is the metallic orange like? I have one but the color comes out more like pink than orange
It's pretty good, not the deepest orange but nice
@@barbatosrex9473 Hmm doesnt sound like mine at all XD
I use Vallejo for a long time on my scale model cars, best acrylic paint. Negative side? Small range of colors.
Should do a similar test with the createx range?
I've mostly been using Vallejo Game Colors for a couple of years and they're pretty fragile, sometimes when i work on a piece with a paintbrush, if my hand get a bit sweaty some spots of the paint will come off all the way to the primer. I'm using Duplicolor primer and i havent tried their primer but the common practice is to seal the paint with a protective coat after important layers like the base coat. Bought Vallejo Mecha Varnish to try it out as it claims it's scratch resistant, it does require thinning and some people recommend 3 coats and 24h cure time.
I lived in Madrid for 10 years. They are a Spanish company I believe in Barcelona so it is pronounced Bayeahjho. But who cares. This is a really great test. Really great. I occasionally build kits for fun but I need this information for creating props and costume details for my characters. I’m a narrative figurative artist. The ball tests were an, “Ah, hah.” Moment
Just starting to learn and try airbrushing.. thank you for the videos.. can't wait to use on car models and cosplay costumes
Looks like great paints! Thanks for the review.
First thing first, thanks a lot for your test. Several colors and a bunch of different materials ( I can´t remember any of your previous tests with so many of them...) I´ve got two bottles of varnish and a pair of colors, tested them by brush , average results mainly by not reducing them properly. In a few days I´ll be painting a Tamiya Lunchbox (1/12 RC car, no lexan but hard plastic body) and after watching the awesome finish by airbrush, I know what primer, paint and topcoat to use. Keep the good work, and cheers from Madrid, Spain!
P.S: If you want to pronounce Vallejo in good ol´ Spanish, there´s a lot of videos of spanish modellers and painters you can check...
Hello sir. After watching this video and picking up the paint may I ask what PSI you used while spraying it?! Thank you as always!
20 psi
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks Robert,.. you rock buddy!!👊😁
Another possible source of paint mixing objects are small stainless steel hex nuts. They seem to provide more than adequate mixing action in the respective paint pots/bottles. Marine grade stainless is recommended….but I always check with some samples into a dish/container with water……you can add some salt to create a more “severe” rust test environment.
P.S. regarding flexibility, as these paints were freshly applied and apparently quite flexible, have you verified that the paint remains flexible after a longer drying interval?
These look like some great paints
Might be a silly question to some, but what's the brush on finish like for these paints? Is as good or better than Vallejo standard acrylics?
kind of love the look of the old label to be honest
Hi, please share a link for the aibrush stand.
Another great review as always, thanks buddy.
Vallejo has a metallic medium to thin their metallic colours, but maybe that is only needed for the regular paint lines
Wonder if the manufacturer is adding amounts of recycled plastic to the virgin resin so that even though they look and function the same, they are now a different chemical that reacts to certain paints. When we reground clean plastic, we were allowed 15% regrind added to the virgin.
Interesting....thanks. Is this paint a very similar make up as Badger Stynelrez Primer?
I'LL TRY THESE PAINTS, AND BARBATOS REX
Looks like a really good paint line, thanks for sharing! 👍
Nice to know Spiderman's ball's stand up to a hammering. Joking aside what a great video thank you so much for taking the time to make & share it.👍😷👍🏴
Great tests. These could come in handy
Did you ever figure out what was up with the spoons?
Thanks for sharing! Looks great!
Any opinion on the Testors Acrylic (non model masters) for a noob? I just got a couple sets from HL, going to start spraying it over the weekend hopefully.
2 things:
1- What's the brand of the ball bearings you like in the paints? Maybe where to purchase. I use a non-metallic bead in acrylic paints.
2- When reviewing these kind of paints, why not include model railroad trucks (G scale are large scale). They are made of delrin, which is a slippery plastic known for not holding paint very well. Would a polyurethane paint work on this type of plastic?
Garden model railroaders are outside, run in all kinds of weather & in snow with freezing temps. We also fight paint's enemy - UV light. I use Krylon UV resistant clears on my outdoor models, however it goes on thick when going for complete coverage. That metallic blue would look very good on an steam engine boiler which the color is called "Russia Iron".
Rex, any chance you could Review Vallejo Air Candy Colors?
Sure, I have been testing Green Stuff World candies and they are awesome
Can you mix needles with air brush guns? I have 5 needles all different sizes and 2 brushes that take needles.
Mr Barbatos have you seen these Odenkan lacquer paints? I found them on ebay and they got metallics for model kits.
I will check them out. I believe I've seen them
Idea for a video, Vallejo Premium vs Wicked Colors ( with 4030 ) ?
Extreme durability test!!
Hi! Nice video! handy review. Just for general culture. Vallejo is a Spanish Brand, so it should be pronounced something like "Vayeho", you know, similar to "yacht" or "yard"..in Spanish "Ll" and "Y" have the same sound. Cheers!
so whats more important thinner or improver? should i buy both?
Awesome video! Any chance the review of e7 paints is on the cards?
Coming soon 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 ah amazing, thanks! Always love to see your videos pop into my notifications 😀
Wow, I've avoided anything Vallejo after using their model paint, might have to check these out for airbrushing
For the record, I don't own a single bottle of Vallejo Model Paint, I don't like it at all. Their Air and Mecha line is good. But these are a completely different formula from the rest of their line up.
You mentioned it works best on the fatter needles and your testing was on a .5; have you tried it on .35?
Brilliant video!
Lover your channel, would you consider as a part of your test painting an army figure or something of that sort to simulate miniature figure painting? would love to see how the reviews you are doing translate to that type of painting where detail retention, matte finishes are preferred over some other qualities.
So, from what I heard (word of mouth), the formula of these is pretty much the same as the Mecha Colors, I haven't tried them yet, but I heard these are pretty much as resistant as those.
I'll give them a go later down this year I suppose, I just bought a pack of Acrysions I wanted to try either way and have a ton of both Model Air and Mecha Color vallejo's on the desk waiting to be used too.
Thank you very much for the test. This paint will be my go-to since it is one of the more affordable here. Do you think the consistency from the bottle is okay for brush painting or even pin striping?
I've read that it can be brushed. Not sure about straight out of the bottle, it might need a little thinning. Flow Improver would help to smooth out any brush strokes too
Love this test. I'm wondering now if I could use this on EVA foam that's been primed for cosplay costumes. If it's that durable and won't crack it should work really well.
Did you ever test it on EVA foam to see how it held up???
@@KrippledKracka Ive not had the chance to test it myself since this comment no, sorry.
Mr Barbatos Mr aqueous, Ak real colors and Tamiya acrylic are all compatible and mixeble without any chemical reactions. However have you ever tried mixing different lacquers from different manufacturers? Like Tamiya LP with Mr color and Gaia notes? I know Mrp can be mixed with Mr color.
It's a great idea ,I'll plan a test video to show which paints can be combined with others.
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks that was my tip for the day🙂
Try washing them first so be sure there is no release agent left on the spoons
I see the paint shaker in this video and in an older video, you showed the Badger Battery powered paint stirrer. The clear advantage I see is that you don't "lose" paint by using the shaker you show in this video. Any other advantages? I'm trying to justify the extra cost. I'm a newbie and haven't used either yet, but trying to build my kit now. :) Thanks! :)
Barbatos have you seen the beutiful metallics in the enamel humbrol lineup? Sunset red metallic is a wery beutiful color and their metalcote colors are nice for chipping. If you make a chip to big simply remove with enamel thinners.
I have Humbrol paints here so I'll be doing a video on them for sure. They are good paints for sure. I do like enamels, my personal line of paints is enamels
@@barbatosrex9473 I tested Humbrol metallics yesterday and I thinned them with Tamiya lacquer thinner and just like I thought they dried much much faster. If I had sprayed it with their enamel thinner it would have taken 10-12 days. It took only 1 and a half hour with multiple coats, with one tiny mist coat it dried in a few minutes!
@@statoilbensin2190 for sure, always use a lacquer thinner when using enamels, it works great. Much better results. Same as me Testors and Revell paint videos, I always thin with lacquer. My preference is Mr Leveling Thinner or my newly released Mecha Empire Airforce thinner.
@@barbatosrex9473 Cool, I got the leveling thinner and also the lacquer thinner with retarder from Tamiya and that is the one I use the most. Have you tried it? I think it is pretty similar to the leveling thinner athleast it smells the same.
@@statoilbensin2190 yes I have it, they're very close in formula
Hey rex can I use the on eva foam to paint my helmets
Yes, these should work great for that
Thanks can't wait to try it on one of my helmet's will send you a pic of one
Great test, that is for doing this.
Nice tutorial! Btw, does the paints smell? I really cannot stand the strong smell of lacquer paints!
I enjoy your videos...very informative..I have subbed your channel
Mr barbatos does these colours have that same perfume added to it like the other Vallejo and Italeri paints? I think the perfume is added so the paint wont smell latex like Ammo by mig or Citadel paints do when they spray. The perfume Vallejo uses is actually a woman perfume odor.
Yes, it has the famous "perfume" smell like their other paints an Tamiya
@@barbatosrex9473 I did not know Tamiya had perfume. I have always used a mask when I have sprayed their acrylics and lacquer.
RC body shells should be cleamed with detergent and the surface scoured before painting. Also, did you remove the protective film from the outside afterwards? Great vids btw.
I've been using Model color in the past, but now I'm trying to switch over to RC color. The only downside I think is the color range, and not much people selling it, its hard to get especially white color, always out of stock.
Thx for the great share information
Can you work with water decals directly on water based paint?
Yes, once it's fully cured. I haven't had a problem with that. My friend however always puts a clear coat down first as many others do. Always test first as a precaution. I test everything on scrap plastic or spoons before I do everything
Did you put a varnish on it before messing with it? Or is it naturally not sticky
No Varnish was used here
@@barbatosrex9473 woooww I’m new to the hobby and am wanting to do custom action figures and this seems perfect thanks for the reply getting some rn
Can you do a review for hobby mio paints and compressor thanks in advance.
I have a big batch of Hobby Mio paints that I will be testing within a week or two 👍 what compressor are you talking about.? Does Hobby Mio make one or the compressor in use?
Hi. I love your vids. I have one question for you. I want to start air brushing my models now. What is the best cheapest way to go? I really respect & need your opinion. Please keep in mind that I have a limited budget.
Thanks for you help in advance.🙂
What's your total budget?
@@barbatosrex9473 $150 but that's for everything I'd need.
Thanks
@@richiek6379 OK, go to this site and search "Cool Rooty Tooty with 105-1 Badger Airbrush Kit"
spraygunner.com?aff=10
Choose the option no paint. This is absolutely the best price that includes my compressor and airbrush I use every day. Its only $167
@@barbatosrex9473 Aw geez I just lost all I was writing to you.
Thanks so much for your advice! I do have a spray booth. Not the one I wanted, but it was a gift. I'll let you know what I'm doing.
Again Thanks Bro
Nice review! What varnish do you recommend sealing with, or they don't need to? I wonder if the Premium varnish will work, or the Mecha one. I want to try these on motorcycle helmet :)
I like Vallejos polyurethane clear coats
I work with vinyl stencils, are Vallejo colours (especially air and mecha line) durable if put and then remove stencils on them?
I’m considering using 2k primers and 2k clear coats from Mipa
This particular line, the Premium will work. Be sure it's the Premium Airbrush Paints.
@@barbatosrex9473 so the other lines are not that durable if you work with vinyl stencils (oramask for example)? I’m new to the airbrush.
I need a very durable paint with a wide range of colours, that’s why I was looking to Vallejo’s lines. Or have to check some lacquer paints?
@@barbatosrex9473 oh, i do custom paint on gaming mice, and I work with vinyl stencils and water decals. That’s why I need something durable
@@OSEhungover1 yeah the other lines aren't as durable
I wonder how that stuff would cover a thin vinyl type material? I have a b9 robot model from lost in space to build, been putting it off after seeing a couple of vids of people saying that paints and primers weren't sticking to it.
If anything this would be the one that works
Do you sand the spoons first?
I didn't here but sometimes I do. Sanding does help
I thought for a second you were gonna paint the Spiderman ball with the black gunmetal to turn it into it's black suit
No problem with tip drying?
I had no troubles with tip dry. I did put a few drops of Flow Improver in it before I sprayed and that always helps
Nice video! I have some of Vallejo's other paints and they're pretty good. They're not super durable, though. I'm a little wary of acrylics in general. Lacquer is just so much easier to mess with.
Speaking of, I had an idea for something you could test out if you ever get the chance. There's another youtuber who makes toys and what not from scratch. And he found that no matter what paint he used, it would still come off the plastic fairly easily (which is common for acrylics). Well, he was contacted by someone that told him to take the little plastic figures and run then under a low lit blow torch. This would cause something called plastic annealing, which would make the paint stick to the plastic super hard. I was wondering if you might be able to test that out on some gunpla pieces? Unfortunately I don't own a blow torch. XD
This is his video on it. I'll link to the relevant part. ruclips.net/video/6Rc4LKMHC74/видео.html
If that actually does work on Gunpla it may also work on model cars and other hobby stuff. Could be useful to know!
There's also a product Plastic Adhesive Promoter. Comes in spray cans, even DupliColor makes it. It does a similar thing as the torch, it sort of melts the surface of the plastic helping the paint to stick to difficult plastics. It's mostly used for auto plastic parts
I’m new to the hobby but I’m trying to understand what’s the best for durability, I wanted to try the Vallejo air line but I’m a little bit concerned, especially because I’m going to work with vinyl stencils on it, so I was considering to use automotive 2k primers and clear coat but I still don’t know if it’s better to use water based Colours or lacquer
@@OSEhungover1 this is hands down the most flexible paint I've ever used
@@barbatosrex9473 the only problem is that there are only few colours 😞
@@OSEhungover1 createx at spray gunner has numerous paints that go huge ways for the money spent. I imagine if you clear coat those you can get them to last a good while. Been learning the last few months so no honest opinion for longevity yet.
Vallejo make a wide range of colours in this Premium Airbrush line... Standard, metallic, candy, plus specific thinner, retarder and cleaner. Plenty to choose from!
But its water based tho not so interesting
@@statoilbensin2190 Thanks but to help clarify to other readers, actually all these Premium Airbrush Colours use an exterior grade hybrid resin-polyurethane base.
To quote Vallejo's information:
Premium colours have been formulated with micronized, permanent pigments and an extremely resistant, exterior grade hybrid resin-polyurethane base, which withstands impacts, resists chipping and cracking, as well as direct exposure to heat and outdoor elements without cracking or fading, and is fuel residue proof up to a least 35% Nitro.
🔥🔥🔥
Could you sand it?
Yes it can be sanded.👍
Spray your helmet "blackes black" paint 😉
Doh, a chunk of yellow came off.
BTW, both ways of pronouncing Vallejo were wrong. Vallejo is a Spanish surname. In Spanish LLE is pronounced Ye and JO is pronounced Jo (lije 🎅 laughter), so it is pronounced something like VaYeJo.
You could catch a vide from Angel Giraldez to get the pronunciation in Spanish from Spain.
Thanks buddy, I will get this right someday. Working on Tamiya all these years too 😉
Vayeyo paints.
If you wanna be fancy and pronounce it correctly, it’s “va yay ho.”
Throw it in the garbage