2002 Ford Focus (LR) Idle Control Valve - DIY
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- A walk-through video demonstrating how to remove, clean and refit the Idle Air Control Valve on a 2002 LR Ford Focus.
This is a commonly known problem with vehicles of this age.
Diagnosis is typically determined by the vehicle starting to run a little rough when downshifting at slow speeds (where engine speed may drop to idle), when coming to a stop and also is severe cases where the vehicle starts with a rough idle.
This is obviously not the only potential fault, but it can be something that can be addressed if your vehicle is behaving with similar problems.
*Note* that some vehicles may have a gasket between the Idle Control Valve and the Inlet Manifold.
CAUTION ** The proximity of the Idle Air Control Valve on a 2002 Ford Focus is directly above the starter motor. Ensure that you disconnect the battery to avoid shorting/welding your tool if you do make contact and close the electrical circuit. **
This video is a guide only and the information provided should be interpreted by the individual. Always use the correct tools and safety equipment when working on motor vehicles to ensure that there is no damage to yourself or the vehicle.
Genius he is much easier than putting it on a lift and paying someone to do it. Can be done from the top. He is the ONLY video I have found that shows how to do from above. I have a new one coming Motorcraft Ford brand and will do it this way.
Thanks Buff. Good to see this video still helping folks out.
I have a 2003 focus and how I fixed it was spray throttle body carb cleaner directly in the throttle body by holding open the butterfly chock with a screw driver then removed screw driver and started the car did this four times using about a half a can. It worked my car idles perfectly!
Great tutorial, Thank you for sharing the proper way.
Thank you so much for the video! It's a better method to get to the IAC on that Zetec engine than others, very quick and no need to raise the vehicle or getting beneath it, thank you so much again!
All good mate. Thanks for watching!
For what its worth, i think its easier both ways, getting the bottom bolt off from the botton and replacing is easier, the top bolt is easier from the top side. .
No worries mate. For some people working from above might be a better option. Good to hear it helped you out.
Great video you’ve got to be a very patient person trying to get those camera angles.
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it. 👍
Thank you. I've just build a budget track car from a 2003 SR, and this fixed my issue. Also replaced the power steering pressure switch as they have a nasty habit of leaking at the worst times.
Good to hear it helped you out. 🙂
Nicely done. Clear and to the point
Christopher Thompson Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback.
Absolutely...LOVE..the voice of your little helper!! LOL. And a great video too!
thanks, yeah she has grown up a little now. 🙂
i just tried it and it was rough...i had to take the battery out, remove C.A.I and take out screws to that gold metal pipe with the hose attached at top, remove coil pack and plug wires, then i was able to use a ratchet wrench (8MM) to loosen then use my fingers to completely take it out the rest of the way, and bottom screw i had to get from under the car using the same method...cleaned it and somehow re-install it, did it the same way used my fingers to start the screw and tighten it and then go under the car and tighten bottom...all to find out it didnt change nothing...part might be bad so gonna get another one from junk yard and try it...at least this video gave me a good starting point..good video though...just need more details on how to take screws out...took me about an hr and half to complete....2 smoke breaks later..lol
Brothawitaswag 2.0 did the new part fix the problem?
I would love to see you actually fit the lower bold from above.
This helps my ford focus sorted out the idling issue.Many Thanks!
No problem. Glad it was able to resolve your issue.
Yo thank you so much. I didn't know I could access it from above. Now I don't have to get it from under.
No problem. Hope you have success.
Make sure to clean the throttle too. Keep in mind that the car might have trouble starting but thats because of the cleaning stuff from the throttle or the body itself. Start and rev up to 2000 rpm for like a min or 2
Man the IAC on my 2003 2.3 Duratec was right on the front/top, SO easy.
My 16V Zeteck has the EGR in the way. How do I remove the EGR and not damage the pipe ?
For what its worth, i think its easier both ways, getting the bottom bolt off from the botton and replacing is easier, the top bolt is easier from the side. Thanks for video.
hi there , i have a idle issue and watched your video and find the problem, but the problem was none of thing that you fixed or clean! what is my point is your video is educational because i was gonna do what you said. i was looking to engine how hard could it be! then i realize that vacum hose wasnt connected! i connected back in the box , my problem is solved. thank you
No problem Arman. I guess this video only covers one possible fault scenario where there still could be other causes. It is good to know the video still gave you confidence to see what could be the cause of your cars problem. Thanks for watching.
Nice thanks for video. I see your iac valve didn't have a gasket. Mine didn't have one as well. I thought it needed one because other videos I've seen some have them but maybe the doh zetec engine doesn't have the gasket like the others it's a little rubber gasket it's not the same as the other ones. I thought it needed one so when I cleaned the iac valve I thought I would make one out of whatever I had and I did but tomorrow I'm gonna remove it now that I see it doesn't need one. Your video helped me thanks.
All good mate, glad it help you out.
Thank you..straight to the point
No worries Steve, thanks for watching.
what size bolts are holding it in place
I just watched this video and he's obviously working on a European Vehicle with no EGR, on the American car you have to you have to remove the EGR the EGR tube possibly even the battery and the coil pack however there is an easier way to get to it from underneath it's not going to be fun to do but you can pull it right out after getting the two bolts
I was thinking the same thing. Did you replace one?
@@carlsousa7382 i have. the car will have to be in the air, however, you can reach it from underneath.
What symptoms where you having for a need to do this aside from the low speed, any noises? I have a 2001, same engine and has low idle issues. It makes weird knocking noises like it's pre-ignition on #1 cylinder. but the second you give it a tiny bit of throttle it goes away. Plugs, wires, all new.
I've got the same issue, mine sounds like misfires and I'm concerned if this is the real issue or not
@@edarin.official did you ever figure out your issue?
@@justicemccann7916 no, mechanics in my city weren't able to diagnose it. So I ended up buying a new engine.
Wouldn't mind seeing a clip of how you got to that bottom bolt. Was it from underneath?
That's what I had to do. I wish he had shown THAT part of the fun. The removal and replacement is the hard part people need to see how is done.
My car has a steel tube obstructing the view of the IAC, did you remove that already for the video?
tube shouldnt have to be removed to take it off
He's working on the NZ Aussie version. The US care with California emissions has the extra metal tubes etc for EGR stuff.
Mine also has a steel pipe in the way
Anybody figure out the steel tube removal. Imposible to reach otherwise.
@@3enton3enton38 the easiest way to do it without removing the intake is to go up from underneath the car. This is a blind job and needs an 8mm socket. Get ready for cramped wrists. Removal is easy but reinstalling is a paaaaaaain since you can't see.
Great video, this is really going to help me out heaps with my 2002 LR Focus hatch with 1.8L Zetec engine. Mine hesitates a bit from idle speed when it is hot. It would only be like 1/4 of a second but it feels like a really really long lag when picking up from idle.
While watching this I noticed that the induction pipe from the air intake snorkel seems to have pulled away from the bottom of your airbox, visible at 0:0:50, 0:1:20, 0:1:39. At 0:5:20 to 0:5:30 you can clearly see the induction pipe from the snorkel sitting far lower that it should do, it should poke up into the airbox, again at 0:5:40 to 0:5:50 the pipe can be seen not connected to the airbox
Nice eye man
changed the air filter and all the sudden a rough idle on my kids escort zx2 lmao did a full pcm reset with jumper, crc maf cleaner let it dry over night rough idle still there
OK very clean clear video but it would have been nice watching you get those two bolts out and getting the first one started. I thank you though since I was going a bit crazy trying to figure out how to get her out of there, even was considering from underneith the car but arms are too short. Great quality Video though
Cheers for the input RIchard. At the time I was juggling between my phone (the recording device) and the tools. I now have a Sony Action Cam with head strap so once I have that configured accordingly I will make a few more videos.
Hello! Can you give a photo of screw, which can help with bottom bolt. cant understand, how to do whith them...
When putting new one on I will finger-tighten just the top bolt to support the valve , then make it easier to replace bottom bolt.
I got the 2 new Motorcraft O-rings too.
Ford wanted $113USD I got it on rockauto for $54USD Total with O-rings about $60.
Yeah Ford parts can be a bit pricey at times.
@@CrackingGate Same Ford part on rockauto is 1/2 price.
@@BigEightiesNewWave yep, there are more affordable options out there. There are some people that strictly buy OEM parts though for whatever reason they have.
Nice video, on my mazda tribute 2.0, 4x4, 2001, (same as ford maverick) i have some thing blocking it, i now see Rick James5678 says it it EGR valve, so i learn two things here, thanks
Mine problem with this engine is, only when engine is quite warm (not cold) and when Im driving and then stop somewhere, then idle is going up and down +/- 100rpm for few seconds, aftr that idle is again regular. Its possible, that I have problem with AC valve?
2:57 the money-shot.
There is no EGR on your 16V 2.0 DOHC Zetec or fuel regulator its must be a EPA thing for the USA
Holy shit this was a pain in the ass...until I figured out that it can all be done from underneath...both top and bottom bolts can be accessed with a 1/4" drive ratchet with an 8mm socket. BTW I'm on a USA 2002 Ford Focus ZTS.
Thank you very much
Nice vid much appreciated
Thanks for watching. Glad it is of some help.
Would this sort a fast idle issue. Takes ages to drop back down to tickover.
hey thank you for that really helped me i had no idea with this engine now i do thank you really helped me out!!!!!!!!
No worries Kriss, thanks for watching.
no i did clean it all mine is difrent alot smaller i took it off and cleaned it all mine has screws to put it on but mine is 2004 2 l model thanks any way
My Ford focus 2.0 si its shows engine lights n now whn I'm trying to be fast it's starting to cut I need a help
@@manwedisetou332 First, feel every hose all over, from one end to the other. Feel for any soft spot, pin hole, tear, or disconnection at one end or the other. If you have many tens of thousands of miles on your fuel filter, swap a new one in and retest.
If no better results yet:
Get the torque app ($10) and a $25 OBD2 reader from Ebay.
Every man should have it anyway.
When you get them, hook it up and select to see "fuel pressure" and observe.
It should be 38-42 always when the key is in 'run' position.
If it isn't, and you have already swapped in a new fuel filter, then check the wiring to the pump for power.
If it has power, but isn't holding ~40psi, it may need to be swapped out.
But, check everything else first before buying a pump.
Load test your battery.
Check every electrical connector for true joinery.
Heck your battery terminals and cables for any corrosion or melting to the egr pipe, etc..
@@CrackingGate where in 1.4 tdci Ford Fiesta
lol btw I saw 2 comments below one stating a 5/16 socket, the other stating 8mm both are the same size so use what you have in your tool box.
There's. A gasket that should be on there isn't there?
how did u remove the bolts to the idle valve control, my hands could not fit in there, and how do u find the hole to place it back on.
Courtney Johns From memory I used a slimline spanner 10mm from memory, undoing the bolt was with my fingertips and had the bolts sitting in the holes already when I refitted the valve.
So how did u make space for your hand to fit in there ??
Courtney Johns was more the case of finding a comfortable position and making it work. It is unfortunately a tight spot to work in.
Our parents focus cuts out at traffic lights and roundabouts when air con is on and revs sits below 1 on the Rev counter. When air con is switched off, the revs still sit below 1 but doesn’t cut out. Only cuts out when air con it switched on. Could this idle control valve be the problem also? Thanks
Possible or it may be a mechanical fault with the aircon compressor. If say a bearing has failed, when the magnetic clutch activates the compressor may not be able to spin and prevents the belt from moving which can cause low idle speed and the engine can stall. I would think the A/C fault I mentioned is less likely to occur so would say check the IAC Valve first.
@@CrackingGate Great thanks 🙏
I have motor the only difference is there is this "mushroom" type piece in front of the idle air sensor.
I am in search of return valves of 2011 Ford focus sedan
Thd best engin. Focus 🌹 i like it ❤️
Thanks Ali, appreciate it!!!
pls how can I solve/rectify the non steadiness and the slight vibration of my Ford focus when the car is on. I have change the plugs but that did not solve it
Osarodion Igiede Does the dashboard vibrate as well... if it does it is possibly the engine mount on the right side of the vehicle. I am not too sure about left hand drive versions but that was the cause of substantial vibration reverberating throughout the car. It looks round and sits just in front of the belts on the engine.
the car does work steady (the fire fluctuate) when the engine is on
Osarodion Igiede hmmm, have you isolated whether it is a dodgy lead going to the plugs?... with the engine running pull each lead from the plug and see if the engine runs more rough, teat with each lead.
Motor mounts bro... most likely the passenger side one and the other one that goes is the driver side
Excellent!
You will laugh at me now. Mine cleared up enough a long time ago that I sent the part back. Now the IAC is $80.79 USD O-rings almost $9.
My friend who was a Ford dealer mechanic says the hanging high idle it is doing now, that slowly comes down to a rough low RPM idle but does not stall IS the IAC! He said on my model the IAC will not cause a code. I scanned it and he is right. Passes IM readiness and other than a high idle for longer than normal, all data reads normal. Now I am mad I ordered one at inflation-era prices, and was wondering if just CLEANING it like you did and JUST replacing the O-rings will fix it. It worked on yours, so maybe I will try cleaning it, replace and send new part back for refund assuming cleaning works. It sure acts like it is gummed up inside like yours.
$107.64 both parts shipped total would get a lot of that money back.😓
Bit of a bummer to hear. Not sure where you live but I would say it may be possible that temperature can play a part with improving the operation of the part. If things are cold then they tend to be constricted and tight then will free up when the months get warmer. I could be wrong with your experience but I can't think of much else why a part would start working again without being rebuilt. Best of luck with the cleaning, it may end up needing a replacement part so hopefully the issue is rectified one way or the other.
@@CrackingGate I gave up, in USA we have EGR right in way, of where yours is open. Will have mechanic do it from underneath on a lift. On mine there is zero room from top, even removing same parts as you did. The amount of space to get to it on yours is so different.
@@BigEightiesNewWave Sorry to hear. Hopefully your mechanic fixes it quickly for you. 👍
Where is your egr valve?
my engine has got no EGR nor air pulse system. Engine is L1H 88HP
Did you clean the valve in the car too? Or just the part you took out?
Used throttle body cleaner for it.
1:53 freeze frame it, USA model we can barely see the connector, let alone the IAC. My mechanic will do it for .5HR labour, small price to pay, and he will show me live data. A Ford IAC is essentially a controlled vacuum leak, that keeps your idle speed at desired 750RPM without load, approx. 800RPM with load. A Ford at idle should have a live data duty-cycle reading of 30-40% Usually closer to 30%.
Ford IAC has a range of 20-60% 20% is fully closed! Yes mine did die until I drove it with AC on it never died because the duty-cycle is higher.
the snorkel under your air box isn't fitted correctly to the box
Nick Truskowski Good pick up mate.... it is likely still sitting that way.....
HanzBrix I got your back. lol
Nick Truskowski haha no worries!!
Can you tell us what did you use to take it off? I can't find any key to get that bottom bolt off.
Hey mate, I used a short spanner to reach that bottom bolt. It is a bit tough the first time but if you can get the ring on it (so it doesn't slip or round off) then it should be relatively easy to undo once it starts turning. I am guessing using a 3/8 drive socket with a flex joint might be able to work also.
Thx. Managed to take it off using an L shaped drive socket. It fixed a bit of my idle problems but it's not working 100% as it should. I noticed i have a hose that collapses under vacuum. After i'll change the hose and the PCV valve i hope it will run properly.
+Adrian Dragos The rubber hose coming off your inlet manifold? Yep same problem here.
The crankcase ventilation hose. This is the code for it: XS4Z-6N664-BA. A hose making so many problems:))
+Adrian Dragos Yep that's it.
And the EGR was already removed in order to get access to the ICV. My EGR is just right there.
No EGR on Australian versions.
Why cut the part where you’re unscrewing
dunno, will include an unscrewing segment next time
5/16 for the bolt size?
8mm
Why didn't you show it start and run?
That is a really good question. Not sure why.
i thought same thing... u do a part rebuild or replace but do not show the end result which should be a smooth engine... best to show a b4 clip with the stumbling, then then how to, then the result..
why not show how you removed the valve
Cleaning the idle valve. How that helps?
Have to take it off from under car on US models. Good luck.
sure that ztec is a 108 or a 2.0
bill mc definitely a 1.8 mate, still have some milk left over when I pour a 2 litre bottle into the engine...
The volume that 2.0 liters is hinting at is not a liquid capacity, but rather the displacement of an engine, i.e. the cylinder size.
Well at least the visuals on your video were decent. You sorta trailed off any audio became very difficult to hear couple minutes into the video
I will reshoot it just for you, thanks for the feedback!!!
Where are your shoes
You're lucky, you don't have the EGR tubing
No mames, esa madre es bien difícil de quitar, como la quitaste wey ..
i have some DEVICE in the way 😢
yes
I THOUGHT THIS WAS HOW TO AJUST YOUR IDLE
And it didn’t help
fucking ford engine bro, i couldn’t even reach that shit
que sea en español
I’m trying to see how taking the air handler off would have anything to do with the idle air control which is on the passenger side of the throttle body, they both have the word air. What a joke, talking about leaving things out of a video, I have a 2001 SE and American
Yeah, you are right. Pretty silly of me for talking about the vehicle and parts as I see it in real-time. 🙄
@@CrackingGate intake manifold runner control valve. I paid this scumbag over a year ago to put a timing belt and water pump on. A back yard failure and he claimed to have it done in a few hours and a month later I was going to be needing a new head and then the wrong one a month or two more. A year passed and I took it down the road and it broke down on me and he was trying to bleed me for more, and it broke down again, four times after he had it a year. So I didn’t say anything but had it towed back home after he made the comment about it was a good car and he would buy it from me and I said yes please, let me add up what I’ve paid you and it’s yours, and it was oh no no, I can’t do that. The water pump leaked and timing skipped and the intake manifold had antifreeze oil and gas under the fuel rail, and the battery was crushing the starter wiring and the main wiring harness and the Scumbag had drawn a smiley face on the connector, the only one not broken, but worn down to a few bare spots. I hate to admit I was royally taken. His karma put a end to him from ever doing it again to anyone.. I wouldn’t pray for that and that isn’t something God would want you to pray for, but he didn’t believe in God, so I can say his own karma got him.
has anyone ever told you you are a horrible cameraman? Where the hell is the valve? Can't find it. Not to mention, you don't exactly sure where it is.
Horrible comment. Disregard, everyone.