I own a 2004 Honda Accord 4cyl and your videos have been fantastic in helping me maintain a nearly 20 year old car. Thank you for all of these and I wish you great success in your RUclips adventures.
There is no way to get to the bottom bolt on the upper transmission mount unless you take the battery tray out. So I'd take the battery and the battery tray out first and I have plenty of room to take out the intake air box. The intake air box is much easier to to access to and get it out and you can leave the intake hose in place if you want. With the battery tray and the intake air box out, there are plenty to room to get to the upper transmission mount to take out the top mounting bolt, the two bolts (one short and one long for the V6) to hold the transmission bracket in place. After taking the transmission bracket out, you can get to all the bolts of the upper transmission mount and replace it and put everything in reverse order. I'd put some rust inhibitor on these rusty bolts so they don't seize on the frame or threads if you need to go back in later.
Apologies if this is too long after uploading to ask a question but my car has a consistent knock, like a rod knock, yet I've had it for weeks with it not getting worse and it is only heard from the inside of the car kinda like behind the dash but you have to REALLY try to hear it if you stand outside of the car with the hood open. The bottom two transmission mounts are healthy with no cracks and my engine doesn't flex very much under a power brake so im very sure the main engine mounts are fine. It is a 03 accord with the k24 as well. Thanks in advance!
No worries at all. I try to respond to every comment as much as I'm able! Is it more of a clunk? Have you inspected other steering/suspension components? I did this video recently where I changed outer tie rods, it had a knock/clunk sound too. I recommend taking the wheel out and doing a full inspection of suspension bushings etc. Here's the video on the tie rod: ruclips.net/video/-yD1hc5_QqQ/видео.html Lastly, what triggers this sound? Going over bumps, etc.
@@DIYAutoworksNG so its a repeating noise like a rod knock, but I've had it for over 800 miles and it hasn't gotten worse, the k24 has had the oil changed every 4k miles and only has 100k miles on it, Im just now realizing its probably an exhaust leak because its worse under throttle lmao....
@@dameanbible1694 get a mechanics stethoscope and tap it around the engine while its running to try to pinpoint the noise. It could be as simple as your belt tensioner starting to go out.
I replaced my motor mount last night off of this video and I truly believe that it was extremely edited because the middle bolt for the mount took me over 1 hr to get in and the only way I was able to do that was by putting that bolt in 1st then the back bolt with a wrench which took for ever since you can only turn it about 1 inch for each turn.
You may have just needed to adjust the height of the jack underneath the transmission. Wasn't hard for me to fit the bolt at all. With all mount replacements, varying the height of the supporting jack often helps if it's difficult to line things up.
Didn't check specifically while I had the car, but motor mounts generally, cause clunks, jerks, shakes depending on how bad they've worn, when taking off. If this side mount is worn, likely the front and possible the rear may be worn as well.
My Honda Accord euro 2005 transmission clunks when it changes gears and going from park to reverse. The internet said the transmission mounts but the bottom ones are in good condition, could it be the upper mount or is it all just in my transmission??
Hello. Could be transmission or even engine mount. Suggest inspecting all mounts (front, rear, passenger and upper transmission). Does the engine move a lot at the same time?
This is same as the Acura TSX 2004 manual transmission upper mounting? Or they are different, because they really looks alike. Any pro please answer, thank you.
@@DIYAutoworksNG 2 days ago I replaced all 3 engine mounts from the dealership. I also checked my transmission fluids and everything is good..could it be transmission mounts?
Is there a delay in engagement when you put the transmission in drive or its just the jerk? I will want to believe the dealer used the right sequence for replacing the mounts since he replaced more than one at a time...
One sign you may have is clattering when going over rough roads (the sound will be on the side that has the transmission). Definitively, if you have reason to suspect worn transmission mounts, try to get to the mount and have a look. You should be able to see the condition of the upper mount when you remove the battery, for the lower, just pull the driver side front tire.
Hello, Great Video! I have recently replaced my engine mounts and cleaned the throttle body, and the vibration is much much less than before. However, I am still getting a little bit of vibration but only in idle and a little bit worse in Drive. When I checked the upper transmission mount, it looked cracked in the rubber part. Can a cracked transmission mount cause vibration in idle? Thank You!
Thanks mate! Broken mounts whether motor or transmission will cause vibration at idle, however, the motor mounts are the major causes. So I will say replace the transmission one if you can. After you replace, something else to consider is, If you replaced all motor mounts at the same time, I think there is a sequence to follow to minimise vibrations. Also, poor aftermarket mounts will have more vibration than normal. Hope it goes well
The noise from this will not be a squeaky sound, it's rather more of a clattering sound from the suspension when driving on at uneven road (more like an unpaved road with mini bumps).
@@DIYAutoworksNG from the oil pan or the transmission itself I forgot to ask, I believe only for the other 2 transmission mounts it's required to lift the transmission. Thank you so much for the reply
I love how they always say “then remove this” and it’s magically gone. This video was not helpful. If I wanted a waist of time I would of looked up how to separate one thing from another. “Remove bolt”
People drill out the crack, then they fill it in with polyurethane from Homedepot. I have to look into that on youtube. Reason: OEM honda motor mounts cost $150 and up. smh.
Yea, I've seen some of this done. This is one mount that I can go aftermarket on though, because it's not a hydraulic one. The one I used here is an aftermarket part.
I own a 2004 Honda Accord 4cyl and your videos have been fantastic in helping me maintain a nearly 20 year old car. Thank you for all of these and I wish you great success in your RUclips adventures.
Thanks for sharing. Glad to help.
There is no way to get to the bottom bolt on the upper transmission mount unless you take the battery tray out. So I'd take the battery and the battery tray out first and I have plenty of room to take out the intake air box. The intake air box is much easier to to access to and get it out and you can leave the intake hose in place if you want. With the battery tray and the intake air box out, there are plenty to room to get to the upper transmission mount to take out the top mounting bolt, the two bolts (one short and one long for the V6) to hold the transmission bracket in place. After taking the transmission bracket out, you can get to all the bolts of the upper transmission mount and replace it and put everything in reverse order. I'd put some rust inhibitor on these rusty bolts so they don't seize on the frame or threads if you need to go back in later.
3:27 you can swing the fuse box aside an inch or two and that will allow you to remove the air intake box without touching the battery
Thanks for sharing!
Apologies if this is too long after uploading to ask a question but my car has a consistent knock, like a rod knock, yet I've had it for weeks with it not getting worse and it is only heard from the inside of the car kinda like behind the dash but you have to REALLY try to hear it if you stand outside of the car with the hood open. The bottom two transmission mounts are healthy with no cracks and my engine doesn't flex very much under a power brake so im very sure the main engine mounts are fine. It is a 03 accord with the k24 as well. Thanks in advance!
No worries at all. I try to respond to every comment as much as I'm able!
Is it more of a clunk? Have you inspected other steering/suspension components? I did this video recently where I changed outer tie rods, it had a knock/clunk sound too. I recommend taking the wheel out and doing a full inspection of suspension bushings etc. Here's the video on the tie rod: ruclips.net/video/-yD1hc5_QqQ/видео.html
Lastly, what triggers this sound? Going over bumps, etc.
@@DIYAutoworksNG so its a repeating noise like a rod knock, but I've had it for over 800 miles and it hasn't gotten worse, the k24 has had the oil changed every 4k miles and only has 100k miles on it, Im just now realizing its probably an exhaust leak because its worse under throttle lmao....
Hmmm. Will require pysical inspection to determine then.
@@dameanbible1694 get a mechanics stethoscope and tap it around the engine while its running to try to pinpoint the noise. It could be as simple as your belt tensioner starting to go out.
I replaced my motor mount last night off of this video and I truly believe that it was extremely edited because the middle bolt for the mount took me over 1 hr to get in and the only way I was able to do that was by putting that bolt in 1st then the back bolt with a wrench which took for ever since you can only turn it about 1 inch for each turn.
You may have just needed to adjust the height of the jack underneath the transmission. Wasn't hard for me to fit the bolt at all. With all mount replacements, varying the height of the supporting jack often helps if it's difficult to line things up.
4:33 "It's not that bad" as he shows us a completely trashed mount. 🙂
😂
What's the bolt order for transmission mount I mixed them up
I don't understand what you mean
Great! Is that a 4 or 6 cylinder motor.
This was a 4 cyl, but the part number is the same, if I recall.
Would this make the car shake a lil taking off in 1st ?
Didn't check specifically while I had the car, but motor mounts generally, cause clunks, jerks, shakes depending on how bad they've worn, when taking off.
If this side mount is worn, likely the front and possible the rear may be worn as well.
My Honda Accord euro 2005 transmission clunks when it changes gears and going from park to reverse. The internet said the transmission mounts but the bottom ones are in good condition, could it be the upper mount or is it all just in my transmission??
Hello. Could be transmission or even engine mount. Suggest inspecting all mounts (front, rear, passenger and upper transmission).
Does the engine move a lot at the same time?
What is the automatic and manual transmission with the engine mount?
I don't get your question clearly...
it is automatic transmission.
Thank you uncle!
😃
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks!
Some bolts are longer than the other ones so it would be helpful if you are going to do a how to video to mention that.
Thanks for flagging this. I will take this into account going forward for all videos!
Is this for a auto or manual?? Becuase that part is coming up for manual not auto
Both Auto and manual transmissions share this part. I just cross-referenced the part number on hondapartsnow.com
@@DIYAutoworksNG so it’s okay to use this exact same part ?
This is same as the Acura TSX 2004 manual transmission upper mounting? Or they are different, because they really looks alike. Any pro please answer, thank you.
Procedure should be same for the Acura TSX 2004 - 2008. Thanks for watching!
What was the car doing before you changed the transmission mount ? My car jerks when I put it in drive
Vibrations with some clattering noise. Your symptoms sound like worn front or rear engine mounts. It could also be low transmission fluid...
@@DIYAutoworksNG 2 days ago I replaced all 3 engine mounts from the dealership. I also checked my transmission fluids and everything is good..could it be transmission mounts?
Is there a delay in engagement when you put the transmission in drive or its just the jerk?
I will want to believe the dealer used the right sequence for replacing the mounts since he replaced more than one at a time...
@@DIYAutoworksNG yes light delay when put in drive. I’m waiting to save some more money because he only recommended OEM parts not after market. Thanks
Also check your passenger side motor mount. Mines a v6 and was doing that. Fixed now.
The bolts beneath the battery tray are...12 or 13? I'm trying to get those
I believe 12. 13 is not a common bolt size on Honda.
How can I tell if my transmission mount for my TSX 2005 is bad?
One sign you may have is clattering when going over rough roads (the sound will be on the side that has the transmission). Definitively, if you have reason to suspect worn transmission mounts, try to get to the mount and have a look. You should be able to see the condition of the upper mount when you remove the battery, for the lower, just pull the driver side front tire.
Hello, Great Video!
I have recently replaced my engine mounts and cleaned the throttle body, and the vibration is much much less than before. However, I am still getting a little bit of vibration but only in idle and a little bit worse in Drive. When I checked the upper transmission mount, it looked cracked in the rubber part. Can a cracked transmission mount cause vibration in idle?
Thank You!
Thanks mate!
Broken mounts whether motor or transmission will cause vibration at idle, however, the motor mounts are the major causes. So I will say replace the transmission one if you can.
After you replace, something else to consider is, If you replaced all motor mounts at the same time, I think there is a sequence to follow to minimise vibrations. Also, poor aftermarket mounts will have more vibration than normal. Hope it goes well
Great video thanks.
You're welcome
Hello, wanted to know what kind of noise the suspension sound was making, was it a squeaking sound or something else?
The noise from this will not be a squeaky sound, it's rather more of a clattering sound from the suspension when driving on at uneven road (more like an unpaved road with mini bumps).
Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG ok, thanks for the help, I get both noises lol. Hopefully installing this will fix them both.
Did you have to jack up the engine?
Yes. Generally, when replacing mounts, you will need a jack to take the weight of the vehicle.
@@DIYAutoworksNG from the oil pan or the transmission itself I forgot to ask, I believe only for the other 2 transmission mounts it's required to lift the transmission.
Thank you so much for the reply
For this transmission mount, it's the transmission that you should lift.
54 Nm. 40lib ft
07:30 > "This is at sixty-four." - close enough for government work
Sir! The parts have to be oem or its ok to buy aftermarket? Thanks!
On mounts generally, I advice OEM, but this is one mount I would consider an A-grade aftermarket part.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you very much... Stay Safe..
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you very much...Stay Safe
Same on v6?
Very similar replacement procedure. Part looks very similar but part numbers are different.
Can you do a video on how to change the bottom transmission mount please!
Noted! Will look into this. Thanks for your suggestion.
That was helpful, thanks
You're welcome
I love how they always say “then remove this” and it’s magically gone. This video was not helpful. If I wanted a waist of time I would of looked up how to separate one thing from another. “Remove bolt”
Thanks for your comment!
This is one of my older videos, and I now show such steps. Much to learn in videography as a RUclipsr!
People drill out the crack, then they fill it in with polyurethane from Homedepot. I have to look into that on youtube. Reason: OEM honda motor mounts cost $150 and up. smh.
Yea, I've seen some of this done. This is one mount that I can go aftermarket on though, because it's not a hydraulic one. The one I used here is an aftermarket part.