As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Right Lower Control Arm: amzn.to/2Zukuqm Left Lower Control Arm: amzn.to/3kaIWVD Tie Rod End: amzn.to/3hjCmu3 Sway Bar End Links: amzn.to/3k9etY6 To donate financially to this channel via Paypal: www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=5PRRGY4GM2CSE¤cy_code=USD
@@AGuyandHisProjects it's a 17 year old Wisconsin special. In case of roof landing, the floors can be kicked out and used as an escape hatch. It's not that bad but I have some kind of camper package with extra coolers attached to the bra.
Great detailed video. Put anti-seize on the entire pivot bolt and inside the middle bushing on the control arm. This will prevent the two metals from binding together. The first time I did this job on our 01 DGC EX, both pivot bolts was seized so bad, that I had to cut the bolt head off and knock it through the other side with an air hammer.
You don't tighten the lower control arm pivot bolt like you did unless the control arm is in its normal resting position. Before you install the grease fitting you can either jack up the car at the ball joint so the car is just slightly off the jack stand or place a jack stand at the ball joint and lower the car onto it, or drive the car onto a set of ramps, then tighten the pivot bolt. Not doing so will cause premature wear on that bushing. I like your editing skills! Nicely done video.
Good evening sir, im watching your video and as soon as i get to 10:23 i have to ask you a question sir, what exact tools are you using to uninstall and install the top and bottom nuts of the stabilizer bar links, can you help me with that sir, please? Im working on a 2003 DODGE CARAVAN SE V6 3.3L.
Thanks my guy you are so explainable....don’t worry about that you talk a lot I need to fix my 2007 town and country base thanks i have been looking for someone to explain step by step thanks....like Tony the Tiger.’’’said ... You arrreeee grrrreat!
Well done video. Glad you finally mentioned it needed to be taken to a shop for alignment or at least the toe in checked. My work life started out for 10 years as a car and truck front end guy. I have a 98 and 2000 caravan both purchased new. They are great cargo vehicles. I can carry more stuff in these than I can in my new 22 Ford F150. The 150 can't easily haul 12' 2x6's. People said I was crazy when I had the trans rebuilt for 1800 when the entire van is only worth 2500. At that time, most everything else was replaced on the van and I knew it inside and out. So why get another used vehicle and start from scratch on what needs to be fixed? I told someone the other day that they are running like new and when I got in to go home, the AC blower motor decided to not work. When I replaced the radiator and condenser and all the transmission lines, I decided to replace the fan relay since I had the front end off the van. It was 22 years old and sounded like a good idea. I usually throw all old parts out but for some reason I kept that on. After testing everything close to home for a month, I decided to take it to the other side of Atlanta in the middle of August. On the way back, the new Chinese fan relay decided it's life was over and rendered the van undrivable. After getting it towed home, I put the OLD relay back in and 2 years later, it's still going. These new critical parts that can shut the vehicle down are NOT reliable now days. I had the same problem with AC compressors for the 98. I went though 3 of them before I got one that was suppose to be new, to work.
AZ working on an MN vehicle? Man, that'd be one of the least rusty vehicles I deal with on a daily basis. Not trying to brag e-peen, just jealous of how easy you guys have it down there.
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan - 170,000 km. 1. Steering issue - when the van first accelerates, there is a shimmy/shudder and then it goes away as one reaches 50 km/h. What could this be? Worn ball joints? Tie rod ends? Maybe a sway bar link? 2. There is also an occasional/intermittent sqeak in the rear driver side, it might be a wheel bearing though when I lift the vehicle and spin the wheel, the bearing sounds OK. Any help would be great!
All these are separate issues. There's a common misconception that a wheel alignment that is out of alignment can cause tire/wheel shimmy or vibration. That is false. A bad alignment can cause and does cause excessive tire wear that can rarely cause a tire to become out of balance, but most tire wear from a bad alignment causes even tire wear around the tire. Very bad shocks with an out of balance wheel can cause tire hop which will eventually cause out of balance tires and excessive front end shimmy. So any tire hop or vibration in the steering wheel of the driver seat, is normally caused by out of balance tires. A shutter or shimmy as you mentioned, can also be caused by worn inner or outer tie rod ends at different speeds and in different turning angles. In general, if you are experiencing any problems with tire shake or shimmy, excessive tire wear, or vibration in your steering wheel, you should take the vehicle to a front end shop to have all the parts and tires checked for wear or balance. Most people don't understand how all the front end parts and tires work in conjunction with the front end variable geometry. And any worn or broken parts can and do effect the entire system and can cause loss of control of a vehicle.
Just a tip for other 2005 Town and Country owners. After repeated blows with a 5 lb sledge, torch heat, several rounds of blaster and 3 puller tools that didn't fit I figured out the original outer tie rod was to long for the puller tools. I had to cut the tip off the end of the tie rod to shorten it, only then did the puller tool fit and bam the tie rod FINALLY came out! What a nightmare!!!
That's a good thing explained very well,I like that and I'm not mechanic to I was shure there's a video without removing the all cradle tu much bolts and time.I love this video let me try my 2005 caravan God bless you.
Hi, I really liked your detailed video. I do my own work as well but want to know if this will pertain to my 2001 Chrysler town and country 3.3 LX as well. Please let me know and I will look at your other videos on struts.
Yes. We have a 01 DGC EX w/295K+ miles. I'm in the process of changing the lower control arms for the second time. They last about 80K miles before a ball joint or bushing goes bad. I removed the lower cradle. Makes it much easier to work. But, I have air tools.
boyt u wheren"t kidding this was by far the hardest job i ever did! what a pain in the ass! u r right about to take the sub fram down to rusty had to replace alot of nuts and bolts need help to get the sub frame down enough to put the a-arm back in u where right about that took 4ever to get it back in if u could have loosened all the bolts about half way down the job would be alot easier to do im from cleveland ohio nothing like good old rust did this job on a 2007 dodge caravan flex fuel model good luck to anyone who dose this job!
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This is the first video out of a dozen that doesn't drop the cradle bra. Thanks
Thanks for watching and you are most welcome. If you are NOT rusted out it would honestly be easier to drop it. My hardware was pretty rusted though.
@@AGuyandHisProjects it's a 17 year old Wisconsin special. In case of roof landing, the floors can be kicked out and used as an escape hatch. It's not that bad but I have some kind of camper package with extra coolers attached to the bra.
@@jackwagonsplaylists lol that made me chuckle
Great detailed video. Put anti-seize on the entire pivot bolt and inside the middle bushing on the control arm. This will prevent the two metals from binding together. The first time I did this job on our 01 DGC EX, both pivot bolts was seized so bad, that I had to cut the bolt head off and knock it through the other side with an air hammer.
Dang, sounds like a PIA lol.
I have the same vehicle. I will be doing all of this plus inner tierods and struts. I am from Detroit.
Nice, let me know how it goes!
Nice video! You can press out those ball joints but its cheaper to buy the whole a-arm kit. Its nice to know you do not have to drop the cradle
Thanks for watching and the comment! Yeah you don't have to, but it wasn't buttery easy to slide the arm in this way either, but cab be done!
Wow the best video you.did a good job I have to chalenger myself to do this so far I have most the tool to do it
Thanks for watching! Hope the video helps, keep in mind I am not a mechanic :)
Yes I know but I do appreciate that you showing us and been honest with us that it take time⏲️ sometimes
You are most welcome!
You don't tighten the lower control arm pivot bolt like you did unless the control arm is in its normal resting position. Before you install the grease fitting you can either jack up the car at the ball joint so the car is just slightly off the jack stand or place a jack stand at the ball joint and lower the car onto it, or drive the car onto a set of ramps, then tighten the pivot bolt. Not doing so will cause premature wear on that bushing. I like your editing skills! Nicely done video.
Thanks for the feedback!
Does it have rear ball joints? All i see is the sway bar link, strut
.
......
Oh shoot i don't remember anymore, that was about 5 cars ago now haha
Good evening sir, im watching your video and as soon as i get to 10:23 i have to ask you a question sir, what exact tools are you using to uninstall and install the top and bottom nuts of the stabilizer bar links, can you help me with that sir, please? Im working on a 2003 DODGE CARAVAN SE V6 3.3L.
Looks like I'm just using a box end (open) wrench and an impact with a socket
How are you doing up north? That surprised me. You left weather paradise behind for the fridgid country side
Haha so far so good! We got up here last week and other than living in a hotel until we find a house to buy we like it!
do i have to put great in the Sway Bars or they come with everything ready to go?
Depends on which ones you buy
Thanks my guy you are so explainable....don’t worry about that you talk a lot I need to fix my 2007 town and country base thanks i have been looking for someone to explain step by step thanks....like Tony the Tiger.’’’said ... You arrreeee grrrreat!
Haha awesome compliment! Thank you very much!
Well done video. Glad you finally mentioned it needed to be taken to a shop for alignment or at least the toe in checked. My work life started out for 10 years as a car and truck front end guy. I have a 98 and 2000 caravan both purchased new. They are great cargo vehicles. I can carry more stuff in these than I can in my new 22 Ford F150. The 150 can't easily haul 12' 2x6's. People said I was crazy when I had the trans rebuilt for 1800 when the entire van is only worth 2500. At that time, most everything else was replaced on the van and I knew it inside and out. So why get another used vehicle and start from scratch on what needs to be fixed? I told someone the other day that they are running like new and when I got in to go home, the AC blower motor decided to not work. When I replaced the radiator and condenser and all the transmission lines, I decided to replace the fan relay since I had the front end off the van. It was 22 years old and sounded like a good idea. I usually throw all old parts out but for some reason I kept that on. After testing everything close to home for a month, I decided to take it to the other side of Atlanta in the middle of August. On the way back, the new Chinese fan relay decided it's life was over and rendered the van undrivable. After getting it towed home, I put the OLD relay back in and 2 years later, it's still going. These new critical parts that can shut the vehicle down are NOT reliable now days. I had the same problem with AC compressors for the 98. I went though 3 of them before I got one that was suppose to be new, to work.
Haha, never a dull moment is there!
AZ working on an MN vehicle? Man, that'd be one of the least rusty vehicles I deal with on a daily basis. Not trying to brag e-peen, just jealous of how easy you guys have it down there.
Yes indeed! AZ vehicles are CLEAN!!!! LOL
Dude, awesome I gotta to this on my GF moms van ugh.. some car repair shop had a quote of 2800 for one side???
Holy smokes! That's a lot of dough lol.
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan - 170,000 km.
1. Steering issue - when the van first accelerates, there is a shimmy/shudder and then it goes away as one reaches 50 km/h. What could this be? Worn ball joints? Tie rod ends? Maybe a sway bar link?
2. There is also an occasional/intermittent sqeak in the rear driver side, it might be a wheel bearing though when I lift the vehicle and spin the wheel, the bearing sounds OK.
Any help would be great!
All these are separate issues. There's a common misconception that a wheel alignment that is out of alignment can cause tire/wheel shimmy or vibration. That is false. A bad alignment can cause and does cause excessive tire wear that can rarely cause a tire to become out of balance, but most tire wear from a bad alignment causes even tire wear around the tire. Very bad shocks with an out of balance wheel can cause tire hop which will eventually cause out of balance tires and excessive front end shimmy. So any tire hop or vibration in the steering wheel of the driver seat, is normally caused by out of balance tires. A shutter or shimmy as you mentioned, can also be caused by worn inner or outer tie rod ends at different speeds and in different turning angles.
In general, if you are experiencing any problems with tire shake or shimmy, excessive tire wear, or vibration in your steering wheel, you should take the vehicle to a front end shop to have all the parts and tires checked for wear or balance. Most people don't understand how all the front end parts and tires work in conjunction with the front end variable geometry. And any worn or broken parts can and do effect the entire system and can cause loss of control of a vehicle.
Did you figure anything out?
Just a tip for other 2005 Town and Country owners. After repeated blows with a 5 lb sledge, torch heat, several rounds of blaster and 3 puller tools that didn't fit I figured out the original outer tie rod was to long for the puller tools. I had to cut the tip off the end of the tie rod to shorten it, only then did the puller tool fit and bam the tie rod FINALLY came out! What a nightmare!!!
Sounds like a PIA!
It was. 🤯
That's a good thing explained very well,I like that and I'm not mechanic to I was shure there's a video without removing the all cradle tu much bolts and time.I love this video let me try my 2005 caravan
God bless you.
Thanks! Let me know how it goes!
No problemo,I waiting for the parts it's gonna be my caravan and my doughter 07 odyssey to iam ready and anxiously.
Hi, I really liked your detailed video. I do my own work as well but want to know if this will pertain to my 2001 Chrysler town and country 3.3 LX as well. Please let me know and I will look at your other videos on struts.
I am not a mechanic, but I believe it should be the same yes. I think this generation is same from 01 to 07...I think
Yes. We have a 01 DGC EX w/295K+ miles. I'm in the process of changing the lower control arms for the second time. They last about 80K miles before a ball joint or bushing goes bad. I removed the lower cradle. Makes it much easier to work. But, I have air tools.
How far did you back out the cradle bolts to give you space to get the rear bushing into the slot?
Oh shoot I wish I could remember, been a few minutes since I did that lol
I installed the grease zirks before I installed the tie rod ends.
That also works!
Why would you buy a car from the rust belt? Was it given to you?
Why would some marry an ugly woman??? I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder lol
thanks for the video
You are most welcome!
Awesome video, thanks
Thabks for the comment!
boyt u wheren"t kidding this was by far the hardest job i ever did! what a pain in the ass! u r right about to take the sub fram down to rusty had to replace alot of nuts and bolts need help to get the sub frame down enough to put the a-arm back in u where right about that took 4ever to get it back in if u could have loosened all the bolts about half way down the job would be alot easier to do im from cleveland ohio nothing like good old rust did this job on a 2007 dodge caravan flex fuel model good luck to anyone who dose this job!
Haha! Yeah it was a chore for sure!
If you take off the cv axle, it's easier than an oil change
You're 👍
Thanks!