I have done this! It's amazing once you get the mixing ratio right. It also took me a while to fine tune the profile and exposure times. Never had any print failures with Aqua 8k but had quite a few when I started mixing it with the Siraya tech blu obsidian black. Would highly recommend it though especially since Aqua-Grey 8k is so expensive.
@@ashcullen9835 I'm in the middle of a move so my machines are in storage but I can give you a run down right now with out getting too specific. I only used this mixture on my Phrozen Mighty 8k so far. The first batch I did was fine but it was definitely lacking. I did a 10ish percent mix of the Blu into the Aqua 8k with stock exposure times and it didn't print. Resetting and setting my initial exposure times up by 8 seconds and my regular layer exposure time up by 3 seconds was the ticket. It printed really well and looked fantastic but it was still too brittle for my liking. The second batch was much better and it was about a 30% mix of Blue and 70% mix of Aqua 8K. That still gave me a lot of good detail and a way better durability although I'm still not exactly satisfied. I'm going to try a 50/50 mix when I have my workshop set up again. I did encounter an issue with both batches and it was basically an over curing issue. The parts get extremely brittle when cured for longer then 3ish minutes and I got to the point where I wasn't even doing a post cure on it and that was working really well. Hope that info helps, let me know if you have questions. Also try and boost your Exposure times slightly more with the 30/70 mix if its not attaching to the build plate and printing.
that's good to know, mixing in tenacious with other resin to make the print less brittle ... seems like the flexable property of this resin dampens the vibration
Do you find that these 2 resins mixed is still providing you good results? I'm starting to see that models are a lot more brittle these days. Wonder if either EPAX or Tenacious changed their resin formulas somewhat recently.
Greg, was wondering if could do a resin review about a 50 percent tenacious with a 50 percent of the build by Siraya tech on something other than a miniature , say like a thin wall.
I have a problem..my model is perfect and looks perfect in Chitu box with all supports and everything then I take the model to the printer ( Photon mono x) and so far it never prints!!! just wondering where is the problem here? is the printer setting, my model, the printer itself I have no idea. Im new to this so Im kinda lost
@@SOTMead very thin amount pretty much fully cures from my experience. i use the resin and uv light and I find it works much better then super glue. I just push it together and then using a long thin applicator made from a sowing pin or needle you get a small amount on the tip and run it around the joint and then hit it with uv works really well.
@@markburton5292 Okay. Curious, have you ever pulled apart a weld like that? I haven't, but it doesn't seem likely that uv light would penetrate that deeply into any amount of resin aside from the smallest of cross-sections. Maybe because it's so thin, that it can penetrate? Seems like some testing is in order before either one of us can be sure about what we're saying :)
I was literally just scrolling through all of your past videos looking for a cure time reference for the old tenacious
Such pure scientific method lol. Love your contributions to the community.
Tires! Trees! Fences!
Lots of uses for really flexible prints on the miniatures gaming table.
Would love to see the Obsidian vs the old tenacious
What are your thoughts on mixing Siraya Blu into other resins, like Tenacious?
When you mixed, what did you change on your normal resin settings?
Would love to see you mix it with phrozen aqua 8k resin! See if that would work without loosing too much detail.
I would really love to see this as well!!
I have done this! It's amazing once you get the mixing ratio right. It also took me a while to fine tune the profile and exposure times. Never had any print failures with Aqua 8k but had quite a few when I started mixing it with the Siraya tech blu obsidian black. Would highly recommend it though especially since Aqua-Grey 8k is so expensive.
@@johnhart5953 I have just purchased this to try the exact same thing. would you mind letting me know your mix ratio and printer settings for this?
@@ashcullen9835 I'm in the middle of a move so my machines are in storage but I can give you a run down right now with out getting too specific. I only used this mixture on my Phrozen Mighty 8k so far.
The first batch I did was fine but it was definitely lacking. I did a 10ish percent mix of the Blu into the Aqua 8k with stock exposure times and it didn't print. Resetting and setting my initial exposure times up by 8 seconds and my regular layer exposure time up by 3 seconds was the ticket. It printed really well and looked fantastic but it was still too brittle for my liking. The second batch was much better and it was about a 30% mix of Blue and 70% mix of Aqua 8K. That still gave me a lot of good detail and a way better durability although I'm still not exactly satisfied. I'm going to try a 50/50 mix when I have my workshop set up again.
I did encounter an issue with both batches and it was basically an over curing issue. The parts get extremely brittle when cured for longer then 3ish minutes and I got to the point where I wasn't even doing a post cure on it and that was working really well. Hope that info helps, let me know if you have questions. Also try and boost your Exposure times slightly more with the 30/70 mix if its not attaching to the build plate and printing.
that's good to know, mixing in tenacious with other resin to make the print less brittle ... seems like the flexable property of this resin dampens the vibration
Do you find that these 2 resins mixed is still providing you good results? I'm starting to see that models are a lot more brittle these days. Wonder if either EPAX or Tenacious changed their resin formulas somewhat recently.
Greg, was wondering if could do a resin review about a 50 percent tenacious with a 50 percent of the build by Siraya tech on something other than a miniature , say like a thin wall.
I am suggesting this cause I came across Eclipson Printable RC Planes, all are done with filament but no one has tried resin.
I think I'll try printing RC suspension arms with Tenacious
whats the mix ratio for this and navy gray fast?
I have a problem..my model is perfect and looks perfect in Chitu box with all supports and everything then I take the model to the printer ( Photon mono x) and so far it never prints!!!
just wondering where is the problem here? is the printer setting, my model, the printer itself I have no idea. Im new to this so Im kinda lost
Ensure your model has no inverted faces
why don't you use a dab of resin and cure with a uv flashlight rather than glue?
Because that only sets it around the edges, the middle will never cure.. as opposed to superglue where eventually it will all cure
@@SOTMead very thin amount pretty much fully cures from my experience. i use the resin and uv light and I find it works much better then super glue. I just push it together and then using a long thin applicator made from a sowing pin or needle you get a small amount on the tip and run it around the joint and then hit it with uv works really well.
@@markburton5292 Okay. Curious, have you ever pulled apart a weld like that? I haven't, but it doesn't seem likely that uv light would penetrate that deeply into any amount of resin aside from the smallest of cross-sections. Maybe because it's so thin, that it can penetrate? Seems like some testing is in order before either one of us can be sure about what we're saying :)
3D Printing is used for so many things, but this test seems to be really about the resin figurines bend/break tests, and small ones at that.
yep, that's my focus :)
@@3dprintingpro212 Well, now I know.
@@theoneed2051 you seem so offended by this lol