Really enjoying this series so far. Your videos really show what a determined individual can do with some good life skills and some tools. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Ya know... I’ll probably never own a boat of that magnitude but man I love learning new things and the techniques you use to get jobs done .. great job Stu 👍👍
Love your no nonsense approach. On an old and quite rusty "project" of any kind you gotta think outside the box. Most people aren't capable or willing to go the extra mile. Remember, attention to detail. Whether you keep her, or sell her, it's well worth the time and patients to do it right. It's all a learning process. Your videos are, by far the best marine and boat repair/restoration videos. I like the commentary. It tells me your thinking process. Thank you for your efforts mate!! Definitely, a fan.
Coming from a guy who is probably doing well to change a flat tire I find all of this quite fascinating. I did not grow up around any of this kind of work and have no background in it and it is very entertaining video. The amount and depth of knowledge that is available from the comments is remarkable to say the least. Keep it up!
LOL So nostalgic. I got a wooden boat in 1990 that was thirty years old. Just watching you go through the process of addressing a problem and keeping at it until you find success was in some macabre way gratifying. I recall so many projects that had a similar arc of progression., engine removal and replacement, rudder r&r, plank mending, keel filling. etc. etc. Thanks for the vids. Keep on keeping on mate. The only justification for any of this is the sail to work ratio. As long as a fellow spends more time on the water than working on the boat it is worth it. I oughta' get out to the vintage fiberglass cabin cruiser in my driveway and go to the lake.
Excellent work Stu! This is hands down one of the top 5 channels on RUclips for the fact you don't claim to know everything. It's like working with a friend on a project. You get to a problem you put your heads together, you with your subscribers. You figure out how to do the job without a bankroll and a truckload of expensive proprietary tools. I ordered my shirt from you, cool to know I'm helping invest a few dollors into your projects! Cheers Mate!
I was so relieved when I watched that rudder shaft fall free of the hull. You are to be congratulated. What a save and you did a brilliant job of it. Let's hope this is the last major stuck part you encounter refurbishing your boat. Thanks are looking up now. I am now addicted to your great videos. Thank you so much for sharing.
Great work stu. I have been a viewer for a while now, but this series has actually made me turn on your notifications so that I don't miss a thing! Good stuff. Keep it up
yeah once the boat shifted on its stands I was super afraid it was going to fall and when jeff just went running up the ladder while you were under the boat I was yelling "NOOOOO!". congratulations on getting that unstuck.
Cool it came out the bottom. All the rudder post replacements and or brand new ones that Ive seen all went in or out through the bottom. Good thing you didn't have to cut it out.
i like every video before it start because i know it will be amazing, and thanks you have inspired me to buy a boat and make a channel. keep up the good work.
Just bought a 98 Yamaha 115. runs ok, been in fresh water only, and am getting after it for my use. Rebuilding carb. checking heads ect. Alot of the things you have taught me, actually everything you have taught me, steering cable really tough to turn, everything. Thx
If it's one of the saltwater series two I can tell you about getting a 600RPM low idle that's as smooth as silk that'll troll all day without oiling up.
If you're going to reuse the rudder you'll have to go stainless. But the alloy you choose for the shaft is important. My cousins yard uses Aquatech for propeller shafts and a post like this. Please take a look at my other post as I added a link there that'll really help but I posted separately because sometimes Google flags them as spam. If you can ask around as you might find a bent propshaft to use for a rudder post ;-)
@@BornAgainBoating the material is expensive. So we hang onto the bent ones just for projects like this. We'll usually get 1-2 jobs a year where some drunk idiot parks on the jetty or rocks ;-) If he was in the States I'd probably have a shaft he could use for the post. Even a mangled one will straighten out enough for this, or have enough that's still straight above the cutlass bearing. We do have some straightened and reused but insurance jobs and ones that run at a high speed usually get replaced.
@@southjerseysound7340 sweet! Where do you work? We dont work on anything big like this. The place I work doesn't have a travel lift so we mainly only work on outboards. Boats under 42' cause that's the biggest we can lift. I've got a video this week of repowering a triple engine 36' yellowfin!
I certainly give you full marks for doing a job out of your comfort zone. I restore WW2 ex army tanks and everything on these are rusted and hard to remove but all the principals and methods are the same. Well done.
Good stuff on getting the rudder post out. as for the crane, yes you will be stoked if you can keep it level, i used to be a hi-ab operator and being on the slightest slopes can make turning cranes really hard especially with heavier loads.
I think your making a bunch of great videos , I feel for you as you work on tough challenges like the rudder post . Your doing a great job , thank you for all the tips . Tight lines
Lol because it's awesome! I can from Illinois but now I live in the keys! Needless to say, won't be moving back to the midwest which is nowhere near water lol Sweet channel I gave you another sub! My channel is a lot smaller than that but we all start somewhere right!?
Another great educational vid Stu. Well done in removing the shaft . I think you deserve to sit down and enjoy a 6 pack of coopers vintage. It doesn’t have the aftertaste of acetone like a pale ale.
Really glad you were able to remove the rudder post, well done. I would replace the rudder post with stainless and as you said insulated it when you reinstall it. Keep up the great work. Cheers Jerome
@@peterjensen6844 It's not lifting the whole boat. It's only overcoming the moment from the fulcrum which is in this case the forward most point of vertical support - probably the front keel blocks.
They used to make marine bearings out of Iron Wood. It is a wood that when worked will emit an oil. There is most likely bearing material now that will work better.
Congrats man! That rod had me stressed for the last month wondering if it would ever come out! Also when you lifted the hull I thought you were a goner 🥺
Never heard the Ferobestos word for a long time, used to fit them on A frames of twin screws of ships n subs, have about 4 fire hoses on them to simulate thembeing in the water, a chain block and with a scale attached to it, to see how much strain it took to get the props turning. Old school stuff. Your doing a grand job Stu, mild steel or stainless new shaft, ally bronze perhaps. Hope its cooler down your way than up in qld just now. Cheers Malc
Yes, I'll just have to check the reach on it. Maybe if I keep it near the transom? Also been looking at some small 24V hydraulic units rather than this little hand pump one.
@@DangarMarine Start with the hand pump one. It will work when you really need it. Lengthen the handle if you want. Near the transom is fine, but consider what the weight of you, the crane and whatever the load is will do to your reserve buoyancy and then decide. If it's for winching in single batteries, fine, but if it's for bringing in 100 kilos, it might affect stability. You'll have to experiment.
Tim posted a link to your music! Holy crap man...you're gifted! Lot of elbow grease into that venture but certainly nice to see it come out. That holy trinity must have helped??!
Many work boats use steel rudder stocks with stainless shaft liners installed on the stock where the bearings locate. But for your shaft probably all stainless is simpler. There is a company named Thordon, who make non metallic tail shaft and rudder stock bearings that work using the ambient seawater as lubricant. They also provide galvanic isolation. Thordon would work well for your installation, if a stainless rudder stock is used. If you go with mild steel, then you need to fill the rudder tube with grease to keep the rudder stock from corroding. That used to be the usual approach, with a seal to keep the grease in, but environmental considerations have made the water lubricated arrangement more common. Greg
Watched this on the 63 inch TV in the lounge and was shouting out to use the hot spanner to move it and you finally did, that seal looks like latty packing, not sure If the spelling is right but many years back we used these in underwater gearbox stuffing boxes with a quality marine grease. I would think twice though about replacing the shaft with a stainless one, if it picks up at all it will be an Even bigger nightmare to remove than the mild steel one was
Hello, I think that that bearing material is ORKOT, I work for a company that machines this material into bearings / liners that are used on submarines/ ships etc, it is a marine bearing material that is designed to swell up a little when submerged. It is even used to line torpedo tubes. Very easy to machine but I think the size it’s cut to has to take into consideration it swelling in order for it to function properly.
dont ya love hearing the rudder post hit the ground. good solutions! I had a backhoe that had fiberglass bushings with no grease fitting and i loved it. the bushings were SUPER CHEAP.
Wait, so the only think keeping a 40mm steel plug from falling out and sinking your boat was that fibrous bearing material and the actual steering mechanics? Oh, and I guess the rudder and bottom bracket. Awesome that that's done! I'm looking forward to seeing how this project continues on. Keep these videos coming! It's really cool to see that you're into music. The cinematography kind of took me by surprise!
I think like in my sailboat that the water will only go as high as the water surrounding the boat, since the mechanic space is higher than the surrounding water level, it won't flood.
Some nice work there. whatever you do, make sure the material is the same in the rudder and the shaft, all stainless steel is dependant on a constant supply of oxygen to keep the oxide barrier intact (this is what ceaps the "stainless" from rusting). you must have liberal ammounts of zinc on the rudder, and a hefty ground strap from the top of the post to the hull. using stainless in the combination whith mild steel is not ideal. i used to work as a cheaf engineer, and have sean this plenty of times. its dooable, but harshe on the anodes. greatings from norway :)
There currently isn't a ground strap at all from the top of the rudder post to the hull. I'll have to look into the best way to do that. The little musical section in this video was inspired by watching Stories from Norway at the moment. The one about the Hamar diving board was priceless. :)
Glad you got that shaft out Stu. I guess you are going to use sacrificial anodes. Seeing as you are a saltwater boater, you should install zinc or aluminum anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion on the engine and underwater parts of your boat. Stainless is nice for your steering, but expensive. But we all know that boat stands for Bust Out Another Thousand;-)Thanks for posting.
It's out! Awesome! I love the camo truck in the back, that's sweet! I used to have a camo 1985 F150 but that was before I was making videos. I wish I had a video of it :( I think your right about keeping the shaft stainless steel! I'm just happy you got it out lol
It's an ex Australian Army 110 Land Rover, they sold plenty a while back at public auction including 6x6 Land Rover Perentie's & 6x6 Mack trucks & Mercedes Benz Unimogs, all are painted in Auscam but I did see a few in desert tan which must have been middle east returnee's.
Great video and nice to see the clear thought process and theroy of work. With the rudder tube I'd personally tap and fit some grease nipples to maintain the rudder post with lubricant
I've got an 'ole steel yacht, that I replaced the rudder stock on as well..An engineer friend who works at Blue Scope Steel, recommended I use COR-TEN high tensile steel..Probably what your boat is made from as well.
I work on boats a lot, mostly sailing boats but work on all boats. I would say 100% use stainless steel for the rudder post. The bottom bushing should be brass with a rubber inner, they are commercially made specifically for that job. Interesting videos, Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. I think they are popular because you experience problems we all face and don't pretend to have all the answers. In regard to replacing the rudder post with stainless, I think you have to consider the application above all else. With stainless being less ductile than mild steel, the length of the shaft and the torque loads may lend itself to choosing a more ductile material. Stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, but will it hold up with the constant torque loads? I think I would go for mild steel with some corrosion prevention such as grease points for the tube. There is a reason why stainless steel is not used everywhere in marine applications. I am an aircraft engineer and while aluminium is the choice for structure almost every faying surface is coated with a compound to reduce electrolytic corrosion. Two surfaces of the same material can still have a potential difference which is all you need for electrolytic corrosion.
Interesting watching your project progressing, thanks for sharing. If the crane is not level when lifting heavy loads it will want to turn to the lowest point. If you use it when floating; it could turn suddenly and dangerously if the boat listed when the crane was lifting.
A stainless shaft isn't a bad idea. I don't know if you'll get a lot of benefit in an oxygen-starved environment like inside a rudder tube, but the exposed parts would benefit. Keep in mind that stainless steels are usually weaker than most other steels. Going a bit larger in diameter would address the issue, but that would mean a new rudder tube. :-/ Tensile strength isn't super important for a rudder post since that's the rating of the material under tension, like pulling on a rope. Not a lot of tension loads on a rudder post. That said, when compared to a basic low-carbon non-tempered steel, a lot of stainless steels are pretty close. Note that standing rigging wire rope sizes between SS and galvanized can be pretty much the same. Yield strength is how much force the material can take and still return to its original shape without permanent deformation (or presumably fracture.) This one is more relevant for a rudder post. It can be as low as a third of the strength of that same basic steel we were comparing to. Looking at some bolt grade charts in order to get an idea, we see 36000-57000 psi is typical for basic low-grade low carbon steel vs 20000-65000 psi for SS ones. A good heat treated steel (grade 8 bolt) will often have a yield strength as high as 130,000 psi! It is telling that there aren't any SS fastener manufacturers that are willing to apply meaningful grade marks. I've been told by some industry folks to always assume SS fasteners are never as strong as even the lowest grade steel fasteners. Unknowingly taking up to a 2/3 reduction in its ability to handle torsional (rotational) loads wouldn't be awesome. Again, this depends entirely on the SS alloy compared to what kind of steel the old post was made from. Paying more than necessary for materials and having to replace the tube with a larger diameter one would also not be awesome. I'm no engineer, but maybe you've got some here that can chime in. BTW, if you had money to burn, check out hardened Monel K-500 alloy. It is the Rolls Royce of marine alloys for an application like this. EDIT: I just looked up some typical yield strengths. Mild steel ~ 248 MPa (36000 psi), 316L Stainless Steel ~ 170 MPa (25000 psi) so to my amateur eye, my gut would tell me to increase the diameter to 1.5x the one I yanked out.
Per ASME Sec II-D, A53 and 106 carbon steel have a Tensile of 60,000psi and a Yield of 35,000psi. 316L has a Tensile of 75,000psi and a Yield of 25,000. The stainless would definitely be more noble once it passivated. But there is so much carbon steel (the whole boat is made of it), that the ratio of anode is cathode is favorable. More importantly, stainless steel will eventually crack in the presence of chlorides. Especially 300 series (austenitic).
@@DavidPT40 -- Ah. Your numbers align with what I was seeing. As for "once it is passivated," that's what I was referring to at the beginning about the questionable benefit. The stainless part of stainless steel comes from the thin chromium-rich oxide layer on the surface. To maintain that passive state, it needs to remain in an oxygen-rich environment. To be durable, it is normally self-healing in that same oxygen-rich environment. When submerged in an oxygen-depleted environment, it is highly prone to crevice corrosion and pitting. The chloride reaction you mentioned really piqued my interest. I hadn't heard about that one and that might push me further from using SS. In short, I don't like SS below the waterline, especially when it will be exposed to stagnant water. Silicon bronze, cupronickel, inconel, monel, or a suitable non-metallic alternative are all better choices below the waterline IMO. Depending on how much life you want out of this boat, it might make the most sense to simply stick with the mild steel and diligently maintain your zinc anode on your shaft. EDIT: I looked up the properties of stainless alloys under various trade names referenced in the article linked below (Aqualoy A22, Aquatech 22, and AQUAMET 22.) It looks like they have sufficient yield strength to be a direct swap without having to rebuild the sleeve, but they're also not cheap. They are all highly austenitic. Based on David's comments, I'm now questioning whether that would be a concern, however, they are widely used for this application. I found many shops online that would machine a shaft and ship it.
Here's a good article on the subject. The last paragraph, in particular, has some recommendations for the specific stainless alloys for propeller shafts if a corrosion-resistant steel alloy is desired for cost-performance reasons. The same thinking would be applicable to a rudder shaft. "Stainless Steel - Miracle Metal?" by Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting. stevedmarineconsulting.com/stainless-steel-miracle-metal/?upm_export=print
Excellent getting the rudder post out! Yay! I would go with Stainless Steel low carbon 304 since it should be be safe to use unlike the 316 kind...but it's your call :)
What an epic episode. Roger Dale nailed it in these comments about the bearing material. If your boat had cable operated steering the problem would never have progressed to be so bad. But as evidenced by your bottle jack - hydraulics develop a lot of power and overcame the resistance created by the bearing being clamped onto the rudder shaft as corrosion took hold. How about trawling scrapyards boatyards for a reclaimed rudder shaft?
I have to say stu, i absolutely love this series!! Completely fascinating!! Was on the edge of my seat the whole vid, cant wait to see more of this project. Was wondering if ur gonna fix all that pitting on the hull? If so, how? Anyways, this is the most awesome boat project ive seen to date! Keep the vids comin!!
It will depend how bad the pitting is in different sections. Some I will just fill with weld then grind back, some sections of plate I may need to cut out and replace.
Yer replacement rudder shaft could be turned slightly smaller diameter in the center area. Then it will come out much easier next time. If it were mine, I would consider putting a grease fitting on the shaft tube and pumping in a some OIL every now and then.
That bearing material looks like Phenolic type material that we used on Huey helicopters! But then again, I'm a Huey mechanic turned computer mechanic!
I used to work on trawlers like yours and bigger here in the UK, You have a nice little boat on your hands and a great channel too. All the boats I worked had grease points on both the prop and rudder shafts, That steel shaft has lasted 25 years, stainless may sound better but. . . wow the cost over mild steel & how long do you plan to own her??? Good luck and just keep going.
My 2 cents worth, I would make the new rudder shaft from 316 stainless which should be well capable of handling the torque of your rudder; has excellent corrosion resistance and is free machining. I believe the old rudder bearing may have been made from Maritex 1810 phenolic resin which looks similar to Micarta phenolic resin. May need to polish the inside of the bore with a flap wheel with an extension rod on a drill or die grinder to clean up. Will probably need a set of telescopic gauges and a micrometer to measure the bore (message me if you need to borrow these).Maritex 1810 would be the preferred replacement for the bush. May need some soft of epoxy resin to glue it into place. Great to see you didn't have to cut the whole tube out. Cheers :)
Hey Matthew. Yes, will definitely hone the tube out - at least at the ends where the bearings will be installed. I'll need to find a good tool to measure the bore diameter. Have been meaning to buy one for ages and now seems like the right time. Catch you soon!
Looks like a phenolic bushing that came out. A simple Delron plastic bushing would work as a replacement...easy to find and have machine shop make one to fit your tube. Good Luck
15 minutes to watch the video and 30 to read all the comments. Lots of great info and ideas. Awesome stuff Stu.
Same here, the nice thing is 100% of the comments are people trying to help and offering good suggestions, well done chaps and chapsess's.
Yes, I've been really pleased to read all the great advice coming through. :)
Really enjoying this series so far. Your videos really show what a determined individual can do with some good life skills and some tools. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Ya know... I’ll probably never own a boat of that magnitude but man I love learning new things and the techniques you use to get jobs done .. great job Stu 👍👍
Yeah, I dont think I have the courage to take on a steel boat like that lol
@@BornAgainBoating I like a problem being solved.
Yeah, it's cool to watch a something being completed, this week we are doing a time lapse of a triple engine repower! You might like it
Born Again Boating just subscribed 👍👍
@@pimpshack81 awesome thank you so much! Working on the repower video now :) it will be up on Tuesday, hope you like it!
Love your no nonsense approach. On an old and quite rusty "project" of any kind you gotta think outside the box. Most people aren't capable or willing to go the extra mile. Remember, attention to detail. Whether you keep her, or sell her, it's well worth the time and patients to do it right. It's all a learning process. Your videos are, by far the best marine and boat repair/restoration videos. I like the commentary. It tells me your thinking process. Thank you for your efforts mate!! Definitely, a fan.
Coming from a guy who is probably doing well to change a flat tire I find all of this quite fascinating. I did not grow up around any of this kind of work and have no background in it and it is very entertaining video. The amount and depth of knowledge that is available from the comments is remarkable to say the least. Keep it up!
one video a week is not enough, enjoying this series very much.
Will try to do more. :)
been at sea since I was 15 I was 64 yesterday. You are doing a great job so far. Keep up the good work
Happy birthday for yesterday David!
When nothing seems to be going to plan, but all of a sudden, success and pure elation! Spurs us on to keep succeeding. Love ya work, thanks.
LOL So nostalgic. I got a wooden boat in 1990 that was thirty years old. Just watching you go through the process of addressing a problem and keeping at it until you find success was in some macabre way gratifying. I recall so many projects that had a similar arc of progression., engine removal and replacement, rudder r&r, plank mending, keel filling. etc. etc. Thanks for the vids. Keep on keeping on mate. The only justification for any of this is the sail to work ratio. As long as a fellow spends more time on the water than working on the boat it is worth it. I oughta' get out to the vintage fiberglass cabin cruiser in my driveway and go to the lake.
I am from Kentucky and all we work on here are tractors and farm equipment I absolutely love your videos KEEP THEM COMING!!!!!!
Thats in the United States so you know!!!!!
Excellent work Stu! This is hands down one of the top 5 channels on RUclips for the fact you don't claim to know everything. It's like working with a friend on a project. You get to a problem you put your heads together, you with your subscribers. You figure out how to do the job without a bankroll and a truckload of expensive proprietary tools. I ordered my shirt from you, cool to know I'm helping invest a few dollors into your projects! Cheers Mate!
Thanks Mick. I do love working with all you guys to get these problems solved. The internet certainly makes things easier these days. :)
I was so relieved when I watched that rudder shaft fall free of the hull. You are to be congratulated. What a save and you did a brilliant job of it. Let's hope this is the last major stuck part you encounter refurbishing your boat. Thanks are looking up now. I am now addicted to your great videos. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks mate. It was a great feeling when it finally came out!
Me too!!
well said mate
Perseverance pays off! I think this will most likely be the hardest job you’ll come up against on this boat. Great work Stu!
I hope so Jack! Going to tackle the prop shaft this week...
One of those jobs that turned out to be more work than it seemed it should be, congratulations
You deserve some sort of boat restoration Purple Heart medal for the persistence you've shown with that rudder post :-)
Got there in the end!
I am really pleased it is out. I am very much enjoying this series.
You're KILLIN me with the piano overlay......
Thanks for taking us along Stu Im enjoying the rebuild
Whew finally get the rudder shaft out and you won the battle!! Now the easy part will be install new one I hope. Keep up good work!!
Great work stu.
I have been a viewer for a while now, but this series has actually made me turn on your notifications so that I don't miss a thing!
Good stuff. Keep it up
Right! As soon as he bought the steel boat I was like, well this is going to get interesting lol
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the series. :)
yeah once the boat shifted on its stands I was super afraid it was going to fall and when jeff just went running up the ladder while you were under the boat I was yelling "NOOOOO!". congratulations on getting that unstuck.
Cool it came out the bottom. All the rudder post replacements and or brand new ones that Ive seen all went in or out through the bottom. Good thing you didn't have to cut it out.
Yeah, I'm glad I didn't have to cut it out too. :)
i like every video before it start because i know it will be amazing, and thanks you have inspired me to buy a boat and make a channel. keep up the good work.
I really like how honest you about what you do and why plus I like how much you explain 👍
Just bought a 98 Yamaha 115. runs ok, been in fresh water only, and am getting after it for my use. Rebuilding carb. checking heads ect. Alot of the things you have taught me, actually everything you have taught me, steering cable really tough to turn, everything. Thx
You know that steering might not be in the cable but could be in the swivel tube on the engine bracket! That would be really nice and a quick fix :)
If it's one of the saltwater series two I can tell you about getting a 600RPM low idle that's as smooth as silk that'll troll all day without oiling up.
@@dustyfarmer you are trolling at 600 RPMs! You must be trolling on a river with current!
What do you do, just tighten the throttle plates?
These keep getting more entertaining &...... educational
They sure are, we dont even touch steel boats like that where I live! So we never see anything like this!
Congrats on getting the rudder post out! That was a big hold up for you, now it's out of the way. Cheers!
If you're going to reuse the rudder you'll have to go stainless. But the alloy you choose for the shaft is important. My cousins yard uses Aquatech for propeller shafts and a post like this. Please take a look at my other post as I added a link there that'll really help but I posted separately because sometimes Google flags them as spam. If you can ask around as you might find a bent propshaft to use for a rudder post ;-)
Prop shaft for the rudder post! :/ good idea!
@@BornAgainBoating the material is expensive. So we hang onto the bent ones just for projects like this. We'll usually get 1-2 jobs a year where some drunk idiot parks on the jetty or rocks ;-) If he was in the States I'd probably have a shaft he could use for the post. Even a mangled one will straighten out enough for this, or have enough that's still straight above the cutlass bearing. We do have some straightened and reused but insurance jobs and ones that run at a high speed usually get replaced.
@@southjerseysound7340 sweet! Where do you work? We dont work on anything big like this. The place I work doesn't have a travel lift so we mainly only work on outboards. Boats under 42' cause that's the biggest we can lift. I've got a video this week of repowering a triple engine 36' yellowfin!
Great idea, I'll ask down at the marina where the boat first came out of the water.
If available that's probably a quick solution for Stu since he's handy at welding
I certainly give you full marks for doing a job out of your comfort zone. I restore WW2 ex army tanks and everything on these are rusted and hard to remove but all the principals and methods are the same. Well done.
That sounds like an really interesting project!
Love the series. Keep up the good work
It's cool to see someone working on a giant steel boat!
Love the rudder post song!
It's too funny lol
@@BornAgainBoating AhahaaAA!
I figured a micro musical was better than miming. :)
@@DangarMarine lol well the performance was right on key! Hahha
Maybe you should have started with the song, saved yourself a ton of work!
When the boat moved i was whoohhh, stop...
Its like watching all genres of movies so entertaining and informative.
You do not talk to much, I would rather watch your videos than watch the news. 👍
Thanks mate. :)
Love the coopers bottle on the Land Rover flat fender .
Can't believe I left it out in the sun. :(
Really enjoying watching these videos! I do these sorts of things all the time so it's great to get new ideas!
Good stuff on getting the rudder post out. as for the crane, yes you will be stoked if you can keep it level, i used to be a hi-ab operator and being on the slightest slopes can make turning cranes really hard especially with heavier loads.
I think your making a bunch of great videos , I feel for you as you work on tough challenges like the rudder post . Your doing a great job , thank you for all the tips . Tight lines
Great to see you got it out! I’ve had a fair bit of experience with rust and stuck parts. Rust sucks. Hope you have more luck with this boat!
Especially with the metal! All he needs is some serious salt corrosion and it gets to be even more fun!
CONGRATULATION ... ...NICE IDEA WITH THE PRESSURE SLEVE WITH PENETRATING OIL .....ILL REMEMBER THAT
Great work again Stu. Entertaining, informative and just bloody good to watch. Still appreciate seeing the classy Landy in the background.
Great vid Stu.
nothing like the feeling of a victory such as that .
Enjoying this segment immensely
Keep them coming.
I live no where near water in the Midwest. Why am I addicted to this
some of the biggest lakes in the world are in the midwest where i am lol
I live at the furthest point from the sea in Britain and I too am addicted to these vids mad isn't it
Lol because it's awesome! I can from Illinois but now I live in the keys! Needless to say, won't be moving back to the midwest which is nowhere near water lol
Sweet channel I gave you another sub! My channel is a lot smaller than that but we all start somewhere right!?
@@BornAgainBoating ever been to lake michigan?
@@johnj8686 yes! I have but not very many times. I was in the middle of the state and spent more time on the lakes and rivers there
Hi Stu the bushing looks like it is ferrobestos material used in boats for prop shaft bearings. This material is made from asbestos
Great result after epic persistence, glad you made some good props!!!!
Great job! Hope the rest of the work goes smoother!
Looking forward to your next installment
Victory! Love your perseverance Stu
Since it's a steel boat get a mag base for an indicator to hold the cam to free up your other hand love watching from Detroit mi great video series
Hahaha..you can tell by your intro face what kind of day you’ve had.loving the videos.
Another great educational vid Stu. Well done in removing the shaft . I think you deserve to sit down and enjoy a 6 pack of coopers vintage. It doesn’t have the aftertaste of acetone like a pale ale.
Pale Ale RULES!
And Acetone, Do tell Us what it Tastes Like You Lying FREAK?
I'm totally hooked. Been thinking about your rudder post all week! Ops, I just realised that sounds filthy!
LOL. :)
Really glad you were able to remove the rudder post, well done. I would replace the rudder post with stainless and as you said insulated it when you reinstall it. Keep up the great work. Cheers Jerome
Another cool video! Glad you got that rudder post out. My vote is for stainless steel.
"We must get the rudder post out"...now available on iTunes.
Probably in the ring tones seciton. ;)
Outstanding, I'll put my hands up and say, I was completely wrong. Down she came.
Good work.
That moment the hull moved and you realize you are still alive...
Lol right
No kidding. Pretty powerful little jack to be able to lift the whole boat.
@@peterjensen6844 yeah, kinda scary too lol
yep..
small Oh f#&k moment
@@peterjensen6844 It's not lifting the whole boat. It's only overcoming the moment from the fulcrum which is in this case the forward most point of vertical support - probably the front keel blocks.
Great video I am really curious every time to the next one
They used to make marine bearings out of Iron Wood. It is a wood that when worked will emit an oil. There is most likely bearing material now that will work better.
Fabulous vids - thanks for making them!
Glad you like them. :)
Success! Gotta love it when a plan comes together. 😁
Thanks for the video.
Another great vid. Thanks Stu.
Congrats man! That rod had me stressed for the last month wondering if it would ever come out!
Also when you lifted the hull I thought you were a goner 🥺
The material consists of canvas and varnish molded as a bearing. Used mainly on military applications.
Never heard the Ferobestos word for a long time, used to fit them on A frames of twin screws of ships n subs, have about 4 fire hoses on them to simulate thembeing in the water, a chain block and with a scale attached to it, to see how much strain it took to get the props turning.
Old school stuff.
Your doing a grand job Stu, mild steel or stainless new shaft, ally bronze perhaps.
Hope its cooler down your way than up in qld just now.
Cheers
Malc
14:20: We have a deck crane and a chain fall aboard as well. Very handy. Keep it near the centerline.
Yes, I'll just have to check the reach on it. Maybe if I keep it near the transom? Also been looking at some small 24V hydraulic units rather than this little hand pump one.
@@DangarMarine Start with the hand pump one. It will work when you really need it. Lengthen the handle if you want. Near the transom is fine, but consider what the weight of you, the crane and whatever the load is will do to your reserve buoyancy and then decide. If it's for winching in single batteries, fine, but if it's for bringing in 100 kilos, it might affect stability. You'll have to experiment.
Ran into the same problem with a rubber bushing in a steel sleeve. Burned/melted the bushing out with an acetylene torch.
Tim posted a link to your music! Holy crap man...you're gifted! Lot of elbow grease into that venture but certainly nice to see it come out. That holy trinity must have helped??!
Many work boats use steel rudder stocks with stainless shaft liners installed on the stock where the bearings locate. But for your shaft probably all stainless is simpler. There is a company named Thordon, who make non metallic tail shaft and rudder stock bearings that work using the ambient seawater as lubricant. They also provide galvanic isolation. Thordon would work well for your installation, if a stainless rudder stock is used. If you go with mild steel, then you need to fill the rudder tube with grease to keep the rudder stock from corroding. That used to be the usual approach, with a seal to keep the grease in, but environmental considerations have made the water lubricated arrangement more common. Greg
Watched this on the 63 inch TV in the lounge and was shouting out to use the hot spanner to move it and you finally did, that seal looks like latty packing, not sure If the spelling is right but many years back we used these in underwater gearbox stuffing boxes with a quality marine grease. I would think twice though about replacing the shaft with a stainless one, if it picks up at all it will be an
Even bigger nightmare to remove than the mild steel one was
Hello, I think that that bearing material is ORKOT, I work for a company that machines this material into bearings / liners that are used on submarines/ ships etc, it is a marine bearing material that is designed to swell up a little when submerged. It is even used to line torpedo tubes. Very easy to machine but I think the size it’s cut to has to take into consideration it swelling in order for it to function properly.
I’ve just done some research, ORKOT is actually designed not to swell up!!
dont ya love hearing the rudder post hit the ground.
good solutions!
I had a backhoe that had fiberglass bushings with no grease fitting and i loved it.
the bushings were SUPER CHEAP.
Wait, so the only think keeping a 40mm steel plug from falling out and sinking your boat was that fibrous bearing material and the actual steering mechanics? Oh, and I guess the rudder and bottom bracket. Awesome that that's done! I'm looking forward to seeing how this project continues on. Keep these videos coming!
It's really cool to see that you're into music. The cinematography kind of took me by surprise!
Yeah, that little 20mm thick gudgeon plate at the bottom might help keep it in place. ;) I do love music, one of my main hobbies outside of boating.
@@DangarMarine Very cool. How about a quick off topic video about your music? May I ask your day job? Is it repairing boats?
I think like in my sailboat that the water will only go as high as the water surrounding the boat, since the mechanic space is higher than the surrounding water level, it won't flood.
@@matthewmillar3804 soundscloud.com/dangarstu
That was so satisfying to watch when it finally moved! And we discovered Stu's other talent ... singing? LOL.
Boatyard noise I love it all,,,good job 👍👍
Some nice work there. whatever you do, make sure the material is the same in the rudder and the shaft, all stainless steel is dependant on a constant supply of oxygen to keep the oxide barrier intact (this is what ceaps the "stainless" from rusting). you must have liberal ammounts of zinc on the rudder, and a hefty ground strap from the top of the post to the hull. using stainless in the combination whith mild steel is not ideal. i used to work as a cheaf engineer, and have sean this plenty of times. its dooable, but harshe on the anodes. greatings from norway :)
There currently isn't a ground strap at all from the top of the rudder post to the hull. I'll have to look into the best way to do that. The little musical section in this video was inspired by watching Stories from Norway at the moment. The one about the Hamar diving board was priceless. :)
Glad you got that shaft out Stu. I guess you are going to use sacrificial anodes. Seeing as you are a saltwater boater, you should install zinc or aluminum anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion on the engine and underwater parts of your boat. Stainless is nice for your steering, but expensive. But we all know that boat stands for Bust Out Another Thousand;-)Thanks for posting.
Good videos I am enjoying watching this.
It's out! Awesome! I love the camo truck in the back, that's sweet!
I used to have a camo 1985 F150 but that was before I was making videos.
I wish I had a video of it :(
I think your right about keeping the shaft stainless steel! I'm just happy you got it out lol
It's an ex Australian Army 110 Land Rover, they sold plenty a while back at public auction including 6x6 Land Rover Perentie's & 6x6 Mack trucks & Mercedes Benz Unimogs, all are painted in Auscam but I did see a few in desert tan which must have been middle east returnee's.
@@dustyfarmer pretty sweet! Now transporting one to the US, maybe a little tricky!
Nice choice of beer! 😎
Great video and nice to see the clear thought process and theroy of work. With the rudder tube I'd personally tap and fit some grease nipples to maintain the rudder post with lubricant
Fortunately it already has a grease nipple installed between the two bearings.
I've got an 'ole steel yacht, that I replaced the rudder stock on as well..An engineer friend who works at Blue Scope Steel, recommended I use COR-TEN high tensile steel..Probably what your boat is made from as well.
Interesting you should say that. I have always heard that COR-TEN only really works well above the waterline. I'll have to look into it more.
Yes, I would ask someone in the marine industry to confirm that..
I work on boats a lot, mostly sailing boats but work on all boats. I would say 100% use stainless steel for the rudder post. The bottom bushing should be brass with a rubber inner, they are commercially made specifically for that job.
Interesting videos, Thanks.
10:35 - that kinda feeling the morning after having a curry and too much Guinness, but in boat form.
Thanks for sharing.cant wait to see how it go’s back together!keeping it all SS seem to be a good thing.
Thanks for your videos. I think they are popular because you experience problems we all face and don't pretend to have all the answers. In regard to replacing the rudder post with stainless, I think you have to consider the application above all else. With stainless being less ductile than mild steel, the length of the shaft and the torque loads may lend itself to choosing a more ductile material. Stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, but will it hold up with the constant torque loads? I think I would go for mild steel with some corrosion prevention such as grease points for the tube. There is a reason why stainless steel is not used everywhere in marine applications. I am an aircraft engineer and while aluminium is the choice for structure almost every faying surface is coated with a compound to reduce electrolytic corrosion. Two surfaces of the same material can still have a potential difference which is all you need for electrolytic corrosion.
Interesting watching your project progressing, thanks for sharing.
If the crane is not level when lifting heavy loads it will want to turn to the lowest point. If you use it when floating; it could turn suddenly and dangerously if the boat listed when the crane was lifting.
That is a good point about turning when lifting if another boat goes past. Definitely something worth thinking about in the design.
A stainless shaft isn't a bad idea. I don't know if you'll get a lot of benefit in an oxygen-starved environment like inside a rudder tube, but the exposed parts would benefit. Keep in mind that stainless steels are usually weaker than most other steels. Going a bit larger in diameter would address the issue, but that would mean a new rudder tube. :-/
Tensile strength isn't super important for a rudder post since that's the rating of the material under tension, like pulling on a rope. Not a lot of tension loads on a rudder post. That said, when compared to a basic low-carbon non-tempered steel, a lot of stainless steels are pretty close. Note that standing rigging wire rope sizes between SS and galvanized can be pretty much the same.
Yield strength is how much force the material can take and still return to its original shape without permanent deformation (or presumably fracture.) This one is more relevant for a rudder post. It can be as low as a third of the strength of that same basic steel we were comparing to. Looking at some bolt grade charts in order to get an idea, we see 36000-57000 psi is typical for basic low-grade low carbon steel vs 20000-65000 psi for SS ones. A good heat treated steel (grade 8 bolt) will often have a yield strength as high as 130,000 psi! It is telling that there aren't any SS fastener manufacturers that are willing to apply meaningful grade marks. I've been told by some industry folks to always assume SS fasteners are never as strong as even the lowest grade steel fasteners.
Unknowingly taking up to a 2/3 reduction in its ability to handle torsional (rotational) loads wouldn't be awesome. Again, this depends entirely on the SS alloy compared to what kind of steel the old post was made from. Paying more than necessary for materials and having to replace the tube with a larger diameter one would also not be awesome.
I'm no engineer, but maybe you've got some here that can chime in.
BTW, if you had money to burn, check out hardened Monel K-500 alloy. It is the Rolls Royce of marine alloys for an application like this.
EDIT: I just looked up some typical yield strengths. Mild steel ~ 248 MPa (36000 psi), 316L Stainless Steel ~ 170 MPa (25000 psi) so to my amateur eye, my gut would tell me to increase the diameter to 1.5x the one I yanked out.
Per ASME Sec II-D, A53 and 106 carbon steel have a Tensile of 60,000psi and a Yield of 35,000psi. 316L has a Tensile of 75,000psi and a Yield of 25,000. The stainless would definitely be more noble once it passivated. But there is so much carbon steel (the whole boat is made of it), that the ratio of anode is cathode is favorable. More importantly, stainless steel will eventually crack in the presence of chlorides. Especially 300 series (austenitic).
@@DavidPT40 -- Ah. Your numbers align with what I was seeing.
As for "once it is passivated," that's what I was referring to at the beginning about the questionable benefit. The stainless part of stainless steel comes from the thin chromium-rich oxide layer on the surface. To maintain that passive state, it needs to remain in an oxygen-rich environment. To be durable, it is normally self-healing in that same oxygen-rich environment. When submerged in an oxygen-depleted environment, it is highly prone to crevice corrosion and pitting.
The chloride reaction you mentioned really piqued my interest. I hadn't heard about that one and that might push me further from using SS.
In short, I don't like SS below the waterline, especially when it will be exposed to stagnant water. Silicon bronze, cupronickel, inconel, monel, or a suitable non-metallic alternative are all better choices below the waterline IMO.
Depending on how much life you want out of this boat, it might make the most sense to simply stick with the mild steel and diligently maintain your zinc anode on your shaft.
EDIT: I looked up the properties of stainless alloys under various trade names referenced in the article linked below (Aqualoy A22, Aquatech 22, and AQUAMET 22.) It looks like they have sufficient yield strength to be a direct swap without having to rebuild the sleeve, but they're also not cheap. They are all highly austenitic. Based on David's comments, I'm now questioning whether that would be a concern, however, they are widely used for this application. I found many shops online that would machine a shaft and ship it.
Here's a good article on the subject. The last paragraph, in particular, has some recommendations for the specific stainless alloys for propeller shafts if a corrosion-resistant steel alloy is desired for cost-performance reasons. The same thinking would be applicable to a rudder shaft.
"Stainless Steel - Miracle Metal?" by Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting.
stevedmarineconsulting.com/stainless-steel-miracle-metal/?upm_export=print
Put some safety shield on your face mate... especially looking up into a hot tube full of ATF fluid.
At least your getting lots of new tools!
Excellent getting the rudder post out! Yay!
I would go with Stainless Steel low carbon 304 since it should be be safe to use unlike the 316 kind...but it's your call :)
Nice work stu👌
Thanks Dean!
What an epic episode. Roger Dale nailed it in these comments about the bearing material. If your boat had cable operated steering the problem would never have progressed to be so bad. But as evidenced by your bottle jack - hydraulics develop a lot of power and overcame the resistance created by the bearing being clamped onto the rudder shaft as corrosion took hold.
How about trawling scrapyards boatyards for a reclaimed rudder shaft?
Yes, finding a reclaimed shaft would be aweseome.
I don’t know why I stressed over this more then the work on my own boat 😂
I have to say stu, i absolutely love this series!! Completely fascinating!! Was on the edge of my seat the whole vid, cant wait to see more of this project. Was wondering if ur gonna fix all that pitting on the hull? If so, how? Anyways, this is the most awesome boat project ive seen to date! Keep the vids comin!!
It will depend how bad the pitting is in different sections. Some I will just fill with weld then grind back, some sections of plate I may need to cut out and replace.
Yer replacement rudder shaft could be turned slightly smaller diameter in the center area. Then it will come out much easier next time. If it were mine, I would consider putting a grease fitting on the shaft tube and pumping in a some OIL every now and then.
That bearing material looks like Phenolic type material that we used on Huey helicopters! But then again, I'm a Huey mechanic turned computer mechanic!
I used to work on trawlers like yours and bigger here in the UK, You have a nice little boat on your hands and a great channel too.
All the boats I worked had grease points on both the prop and rudder shafts, That steel shaft has lasted 25 years, stainless may sound better but. . . wow the cost over mild steel & how long do you plan to own her??? Good luck and just keep going.
I think that’s good advice mate. For the cost, if a mild steel shaft gets me another 20 years then it will see the boat through.
O. I'm buying a T-shirt. Black, Dangar Marine. Pirate gear.
My 2 cents worth, I would make the new rudder shaft from 316 stainless which should be well capable of handling the torque of your rudder; has excellent corrosion resistance and is free machining. I believe the old rudder bearing may have been made from Maritex 1810 phenolic resin which looks similar to Micarta phenolic resin. May need to polish the inside of the bore with a flap wheel with an extension rod on a drill or die grinder to clean up. Will probably need a set of telescopic gauges and a micrometer to measure the bore (message me if you need to borrow these).Maritex 1810 would be the preferred replacement for the bush. May need some soft of epoxy resin to glue it into place. Great to see you didn't have to cut the whole tube out. Cheers :)
Hey Matthew. Yes, will definitely hone the tube out - at least at the ends where the bearings will be installed. I'll need to find a good tool to measure the bore diameter. Have been meaning to buy one for ages and now seems like the right time. Catch you soon!
Looks like a phenolic bushing that came out. A simple Delron plastic bushing would work as a replacement...easy to find and have machine shop make one to fit your tube. Good Luck