Coming from a guy who is probably doing well to change a flat tire I find all of this quite fascinating. I did not grow up around any of this kind of work and have no background in it and it is very entertaining video. The amount and depth of knowledge that is available from the comments is remarkable to say the least. Keep it up!
Really enjoying this series so far. Your videos really show what a determined individual can do with some good life skills and some tools. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Ya know... I’ll probably never own a boat of that magnitude but man I love learning new things and the techniques you use to get jobs done .. great job Stu 👍👍
Excellent work Stu! This is hands down one of the top 5 channels on RUclips for the fact you don't claim to know everything. It's like working with a friend on a project. You get to a problem you put your heads together, you with your subscribers. You figure out how to do the job without a bankroll and a truckload of expensive proprietary tools. I ordered my shirt from you, cool to know I'm helping invest a few dollors into your projects! Cheers Mate!
I was so relieved when I watched that rudder shaft fall free of the hull. You are to be congratulated. What a save and you did a brilliant job of it. Let's hope this is the last major stuck part you encounter refurbishing your boat. Thanks are looking up now. I am now addicted to your great videos. Thank you so much for sharing.
Love your no nonsense approach. On an old and quite rusty "project" of any kind you gotta think outside the box. Most people aren't capable or willing to go the extra mile. Remember, attention to detail. Whether you keep her, or sell her, it's well worth the time and patients to do it right. It's all a learning process. Your videos are, by far the best marine and boat repair/restoration videos. I like the commentary. It tells me your thinking process. Thank you for your efforts mate!! Definitely, a fan.
LOL So nostalgic. I got a wooden boat in 1990 that was thirty years old. Just watching you go through the process of addressing a problem and keeping at it until you find success was in some macabre way gratifying. I recall so many projects that had a similar arc of progression., engine removal and replacement, rudder r&r, plank mending, keel filling. etc. etc. Thanks for the vids. Keep on keeping on mate. The only justification for any of this is the sail to work ratio. As long as a fellow spends more time on the water than working on the boat it is worth it. I oughta' get out to the vintage fiberglass cabin cruiser in my driveway and go to the lake.
i like every video before it start because i know it will be amazing, and thanks you have inspired me to buy a boat and make a channel. keep up the good work.
Great work stu. I have been a viewer for a while now, but this series has actually made me turn on your notifications so that I don't miss a thing! Good stuff. Keep it up
Just bought a 98 Yamaha 115. runs ok, been in fresh water only, and am getting after it for my use. Rebuilding carb. checking heads ect. Alot of the things you have taught me, actually everything you have taught me, steering cable really tough to turn, everything. Thx
If it's one of the saltwater series two I can tell you about getting a 600RPM low idle that's as smooth as silk that'll troll all day without oiling up.
Cool it came out the bottom. All the rudder post replacements and or brand new ones that Ive seen all went in or out through the bottom. Good thing you didn't have to cut it out.
yeah once the boat shifted on its stands I was super afraid it was going to fall and when jeff just went running up the ladder while you were under the boat I was yelling "NOOOOO!". congratulations on getting that unstuck.
I think your making a bunch of great videos , I feel for you as you work on tough challenges like the rudder post . Your doing a great job , thank you for all the tips . Tight lines
I certainly give you full marks for doing a job out of your comfort zone. I restore WW2 ex army tanks and everything on these are rusted and hard to remove but all the principals and methods are the same. Well done.
Good stuff on getting the rudder post out. as for the crane, yes you will be stoked if you can keep it level, i used to be a hi-ab operator and being on the slightest slopes can make turning cranes really hard especially with heavier loads.
If you're going to reuse the rudder you'll have to go stainless. But the alloy you choose for the shaft is important. My cousins yard uses Aquatech for propeller shafts and a post like this. Please take a look at my other post as I added a link there that'll really help but I posted separately because sometimes Google flags them as spam. If you can ask around as you might find a bent propshaft to use for a rudder post ;-)
@@BornAgainBoating the material is expensive. So we hang onto the bent ones just for projects like this. We'll usually get 1-2 jobs a year where some drunk idiot parks on the jetty or rocks ;-) If he was in the States I'd probably have a shaft he could use for the post. Even a mangled one will straighten out enough for this, or have enough that's still straight above the cutlass bearing. We do have some straightened and reused but insurance jobs and ones that run at a high speed usually get replaced.
@@southjerseysound7340 sweet! Where do you work? We dont work on anything big like this. The place I work doesn't have a travel lift so we mainly only work on outboards. Boats under 42' cause that's the biggest we can lift. I've got a video this week of repowering a triple engine 36' yellowfin!
Another great educational vid Stu. Well done in removing the shaft . I think you deserve to sit down and enjoy a 6 pack of coopers vintage. It doesn’t have the aftertaste of acetone like a pale ale.
They used to make marine bearings out of Iron Wood. It is a wood that when worked will emit an oil. There is most likely bearing material now that will work better.
Really glad you were able to remove the rudder post, well done. I would replace the rudder post with stainless and as you said insulated it when you reinstall it. Keep up the great work. Cheers Jerome
Lol because it's awesome! I can from Illinois but now I live in the keys! Needless to say, won't be moving back to the midwest which is nowhere near water lol Sweet channel I gave you another sub! My channel is a lot smaller than that but we all start somewhere right!?
Yes, I'll just have to check the reach on it. Maybe if I keep it near the transom? Also been looking at some small 24V hydraulic units rather than this little hand pump one.
@@DangarMarine Start with the hand pump one. It will work when you really need it. Lengthen the handle if you want. Near the transom is fine, but consider what the weight of you, the crane and whatever the load is will do to your reserve buoyancy and then decide. If it's for winching in single batteries, fine, but if it's for bringing in 100 kilos, it might affect stability. You'll have to experiment.
Congrats man! That rod had me stressed for the last month wondering if it would ever come out! Also when you lifted the hull I thought you were a goner 🥺
Never heard the Ferobestos word for a long time, used to fit them on A frames of twin screws of ships n subs, have about 4 fire hoses on them to simulate thembeing in the water, a chain block and with a scale attached to it, to see how much strain it took to get the props turning. Old school stuff. Your doing a grand job Stu, mild steel or stainless new shaft, ally bronze perhaps. Hope its cooler down your way than up in qld just now. Cheers Malc
I have to say stu, i absolutely love this series!! Completely fascinating!! Was on the edge of my seat the whole vid, cant wait to see more of this project. Was wondering if ur gonna fix all that pitting on the hull? If so, how? Anyways, this is the most awesome boat project ive seen to date! Keep the vids comin!!
It will depend how bad the pitting is in different sections. Some I will just fill with weld then grind back, some sections of plate I may need to cut out and replace.
dont ya love hearing the rudder post hit the ground. good solutions! I had a backhoe that had fiberglass bushings with no grease fitting and i loved it. the bushings were SUPER CHEAP.
Wait, so the only think keeping a 40mm steel plug from falling out and sinking your boat was that fibrous bearing material and the actual steering mechanics? Oh, and I guess the rudder and bottom bracket. Awesome that that's done! I'm looking forward to seeing how this project continues on. Keep these videos coming! It's really cool to see that you're into music. The cinematography kind of took me by surprise!
I think like in my sailboat that the water will only go as high as the water surrounding the boat, since the mechanic space is higher than the surrounding water level, it won't flood.
Hello, I think that that bearing material is ORKOT, I work for a company that machines this material into bearings / liners that are used on submarines/ ships etc, it is a marine bearing material that is designed to swell up a little when submerged. It is even used to line torpedo tubes. Very easy to machine but I think the size it’s cut to has to take into consideration it swelling in order for it to function properly.
I used to work on trawlers like yours and bigger here in the UK, You have a nice little boat on your hands and a great channel too. All the boats I worked had grease points on both the prop and rudder shafts, That steel shaft has lasted 25 years, stainless may sound better but. . . wow the cost over mild steel & how long do you plan to own her??? Good luck and just keep going.
Some nice work there. whatever you do, make sure the material is the same in the rudder and the shaft, all stainless steel is dependant on a constant supply of oxygen to keep the oxide barrier intact (this is what ceaps the "stainless" from rusting). you must have liberal ammounts of zinc on the rudder, and a hefty ground strap from the top of the post to the hull. using stainless in the combination whith mild steel is not ideal. i used to work as a cheaf engineer, and have sean this plenty of times. its dooable, but harshe on the anodes. greatings from norway :)
There currently isn't a ground strap at all from the top of the rudder post to the hull. I'll have to look into the best way to do that. The little musical section in this video was inspired by watching Stories from Norway at the moment. The one about the Hamar diving board was priceless. :)
It's out! Awesome! I love the camo truck in the back, that's sweet! I used to have a camo 1985 F150 but that was before I was making videos. I wish I had a video of it :( I think your right about keeping the shaft stainless steel! I'm just happy you got it out lol
It's an ex Australian Army 110 Land Rover, they sold plenty a while back at public auction including 6x6 Land Rover Perentie's & 6x6 Mack trucks & Mercedes Benz Unimogs, all are painted in Auscam but I did see a few in desert tan which must have been middle east returnee's.
Many work boats use steel rudder stocks with stainless shaft liners installed on the stock where the bearings locate. But for your shaft probably all stainless is simpler. There is a company named Thordon, who make non metallic tail shaft and rudder stock bearings that work using the ambient seawater as lubricant. They also provide galvanic isolation. Thordon would work well for your installation, if a stainless rudder stock is used. If you go with mild steel, then you need to fill the rudder tube with grease to keep the rudder stock from corroding. That used to be the usual approach, with a seal to keep the grease in, but environmental considerations have made the water lubricated arrangement more common. Greg
Thanks for your videos. I think they are popular because you experience problems we all face and don't pretend to have all the answers. In regard to replacing the rudder post with stainless, I think you have to consider the application above all else. With stainless being less ductile than mild steel, the length of the shaft and the torque loads may lend itself to choosing a more ductile material. Stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, but will it hold up with the constant torque loads? I think I would go for mild steel with some corrosion prevention such as grease points for the tube. There is a reason why stainless steel is not used everywhere in marine applications. I am an aircraft engineer and while aluminium is the choice for structure almost every faying surface is coated with a compound to reduce electrolytic corrosion. Two surfaces of the same material can still have a potential difference which is all you need for electrolytic corrosion.
Tim posted a link to your music! Holy crap man...you're gifted! Lot of elbow grease into that venture but certainly nice to see it come out. That holy trinity must have helped??!
Watched this on the 63 inch TV in the lounge and was shouting out to use the hot spanner to move it and you finally did, that seal looks like latty packing, not sure If the spelling is right but many years back we used these in underwater gearbox stuffing boxes with a quality marine grease. I would think twice though about replacing the shaft with a stainless one, if it picks up at all it will be an Even bigger nightmare to remove than the mild steel one was
Interesting watching your project progressing, thanks for sharing. If the crane is not level when lifting heavy loads it will want to turn to the lowest point. If you use it when floating; it could turn suddenly and dangerously if the boat listed when the crane was lifting.
I've got an 'ole steel yacht, that I replaced the rudder stock on as well..An engineer friend who works at Blue Scope Steel, recommended I use COR-TEN high tensile steel..Probably what your boat is made from as well.
A stainless shaft isn't a bad idea. I don't know if you'll get a lot of benefit in an oxygen-starved environment like inside a rudder tube, but the exposed parts would benefit. Keep in mind that stainless steels are usually weaker than most other steels. Going a bit larger in diameter would address the issue, but that would mean a new rudder tube. :-/ Tensile strength isn't super important for a rudder post since that's the rating of the material under tension, like pulling on a rope. Not a lot of tension loads on a rudder post. That said, when compared to a basic low-carbon non-tempered steel, a lot of stainless steels are pretty close. Note that standing rigging wire rope sizes between SS and galvanized can be pretty much the same. Yield strength is how much force the material can take and still return to its original shape without permanent deformation (or presumably fracture.) This one is more relevant for a rudder post. It can be as low as a third of the strength of that same basic steel we were comparing to. Looking at some bolt grade charts in order to get an idea, we see 36000-57000 psi is typical for basic low-grade low carbon steel vs 20000-65000 psi for SS ones. A good heat treated steel (grade 8 bolt) will often have a yield strength as high as 130,000 psi! It is telling that there aren't any SS fastener manufacturers that are willing to apply meaningful grade marks. I've been told by some industry folks to always assume SS fasteners are never as strong as even the lowest grade steel fasteners. Unknowingly taking up to a 2/3 reduction in its ability to handle torsional (rotational) loads wouldn't be awesome. Again, this depends entirely on the SS alloy compared to what kind of steel the old post was made from. Paying more than necessary for materials and having to replace the tube with a larger diameter one would also not be awesome. I'm no engineer, but maybe you've got some here that can chime in. BTW, if you had money to burn, check out hardened Monel K-500 alloy. It is the Rolls Royce of marine alloys for an application like this. EDIT: I just looked up some typical yield strengths. Mild steel ~ 248 MPa (36000 psi), 316L Stainless Steel ~ 170 MPa (25000 psi) so to my amateur eye, my gut would tell me to increase the diameter to 1.5x the one I yanked out.
Per ASME Sec II-D, A53 and 106 carbon steel have a Tensile of 60,000psi and a Yield of 35,000psi. 316L has a Tensile of 75,000psi and a Yield of 25,000. The stainless would definitely be more noble once it passivated. But there is so much carbon steel (the whole boat is made of it), that the ratio of anode is cathode is favorable. More importantly, stainless steel will eventually crack in the presence of chlorides. Especially 300 series (austenitic).
@@DavidPT40 -- Ah. Your numbers align with what I was seeing. As for "once it is passivated," that's what I was referring to at the beginning about the questionable benefit. The stainless part of stainless steel comes from the thin chromium-rich oxide layer on the surface. To maintain that passive state, it needs to remain in an oxygen-rich environment. To be durable, it is normally self-healing in that same oxygen-rich environment. When submerged in an oxygen-depleted environment, it is highly prone to crevice corrosion and pitting. The chloride reaction you mentioned really piqued my interest. I hadn't heard about that one and that might push me further from using SS. In short, I don't like SS below the waterline, especially when it will be exposed to stagnant water. Silicon bronze, cupronickel, inconel, monel, or a suitable non-metallic alternative are all better choices below the waterline IMO. Depending on how much life you want out of this boat, it might make the most sense to simply stick with the mild steel and diligently maintain your zinc anode on your shaft. EDIT: I looked up the properties of stainless alloys under various trade names referenced in the article linked below (Aqualoy A22, Aquatech 22, and AQUAMET 22.) It looks like they have sufficient yield strength to be a direct swap without having to rebuild the sleeve, but they're also not cheap. They are all highly austenitic. Based on David's comments, I'm now questioning whether that would be a concern, however, they are widely used for this application. I found many shops online that would machine a shaft and ship it.
Here's a good article on the subject. The last paragraph, in particular, has some recommendations for the specific stainless alloys for propeller shafts if a corrosion-resistant steel alloy is desired for cost-performance reasons. The same thinking would be applicable to a rudder shaft. "Stainless Steel - Miracle Metal?" by Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting. stevedmarineconsulting.com/stainless-steel-miracle-metal/?upm_export=print
I work on boats a lot, mostly sailing boats but work on all boats. I would say 100% use stainless steel for the rudder post. The bottom bushing should be brass with a rubber inner, they are commercially made specifically for that job. Interesting videos, Thanks.
Be careful with that crane if the slew axis is not vertical. If you have any significant load hanging, it will slew to the low side. Might need to engineer some kind of slewing brake.
Great video and nice to see the clear thought process and theroy of work. With the rudder tube I'd personally tap and fit some grease nipples to maintain the rudder post with lubricant
I would not use any more stainless steel. Just use a High Density nylon insulator between the new post flange and and the stainless steel rudder. Also add zinc anode to a wider rudder post flange above the rudder. Note that the rudder post shaft may yet need to be replaced and will need realignment in any case. Inexpensive, long lasting and easy is the best way.
Glad you got that shaft out Stu. I guess you are going to use sacrificial anodes. Seeing as you are a saltwater boater, you should install zinc or aluminum anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion on the engine and underwater parts of your boat. Stainless is nice for your steering, but expensive. But we all know that boat stands for Bust Out Another Thousand;-)Thanks for posting.
So far as I can see the bush is made from a composite material and may be I am wrong but I would go for stainless as mild steel can be soft and corrode.
Yer replacement rudder shaft could be turned slightly smaller diameter in the center area. Then it will come out much easier next time. If it were mine, I would consider putting a grease fitting on the shaft tube and pumping in a some OIL every now and then.
WOW ! Stu has a second career. MORE SINGING, even if it is drunken sailor songs ! My vote is for a stainless rudder post. Big $$$ for sure. More important, what material for that bushing. I think nylon is too soft. Perhaps Delrin ? I can not remember the name of that material, but is it sometime used in cutlass bearings. Need a method of greasing the shaft, especially if you go with mild steel.
Look into air arc gouging to remove weld lines. If you think Oxy Acetyline is quick you have no idea how fast air arc gouging is. The good thing is that you can get into corners that nothing else can get into and blow weld out of that corner.
15 minutes to watch the video and 30 to read all the comments. Lots of great info and ideas. Awesome stuff Stu.
Same here, the nice thing is 100% of the comments are people trying to help and offering good suggestions, well done chaps and chapsess's.
Yes, I've been really pleased to read all the great advice coming through. :)
Coming from a guy who is probably doing well to change a flat tire I find all of this quite fascinating. I did not grow up around any of this kind of work and have no background in it and it is very entertaining video. The amount and depth of knowledge that is available from the comments is remarkable to say the least. Keep it up!
been at sea since I was 15 I was 64 yesterday. You are doing a great job so far. Keep up the good work
Happy birthday for yesterday David!
Really enjoying this series so far. Your videos really show what a determined individual can do with some good life skills and some tools. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
I am from Kentucky and all we work on here are tractors and farm equipment I absolutely love your videos KEEP THEM COMING!!!!!!
Thats in the United States so you know!!!!!
Ya know... I’ll probably never own a boat of that magnitude but man I love learning new things and the techniques you use to get jobs done .. great job Stu 👍👍
Yeah, I dont think I have the courage to take on a steel boat like that lol
@@BornAgainBoating I like a problem being solved.
Yeah, it's cool to watch a something being completed, this week we are doing a time lapse of a triple engine repower! You might like it
Born Again Boating just subscribed 👍👍
@@pimpshack81 awesome thank you so much! Working on the repower video now :) it will be up on Tuesday, hope you like it!
When nothing seems to be going to plan, but all of a sudden, success and pure elation! Spurs us on to keep succeeding. Love ya work, thanks.
one video a week is not enough, enjoying this series very much.
Will try to do more. :)
Excellent work Stu! This is hands down one of the top 5 channels on RUclips for the fact you don't claim to know everything. It's like working with a friend on a project. You get to a problem you put your heads together, you with your subscribers. You figure out how to do the job without a bankroll and a truckload of expensive proprietary tools. I ordered my shirt from you, cool to know I'm helping invest a few dollors into your projects! Cheers Mate!
Thanks Mick. I do love working with all you guys to get these problems solved. The internet certainly makes things easier these days. :)
I was so relieved when I watched that rudder shaft fall free of the hull. You are to be congratulated. What a save and you did a brilliant job of it. Let's hope this is the last major stuck part you encounter refurbishing your boat. Thanks are looking up now. I am now addicted to your great videos. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks mate. It was a great feeling when it finally came out!
Me too!!
well said mate
Love your no nonsense approach. On an old and quite rusty "project" of any kind you gotta think outside the box. Most people aren't capable or willing to go the extra mile. Remember, attention to detail. Whether you keep her, or sell her, it's well worth the time and patients to do it right. It's all a learning process. Your videos are, by far the best marine and boat repair/restoration videos. I like the commentary. It tells me your thinking process. Thank you for your efforts mate!! Definitely, a fan.
You deserve some sort of boat restoration Purple Heart medal for the persistence you've shown with that rudder post :-)
Got there in the end!
LOL So nostalgic. I got a wooden boat in 1990 that was thirty years old. Just watching you go through the process of addressing a problem and keeping at it until you find success was in some macabre way gratifying. I recall so many projects that had a similar arc of progression., engine removal and replacement, rudder r&r, plank mending, keel filling. etc. etc. Thanks for the vids. Keep on keeping on mate. The only justification for any of this is the sail to work ratio. As long as a fellow spends more time on the water than working on the boat it is worth it. I oughta' get out to the vintage fiberglass cabin cruiser in my driveway and go to the lake.
Perseverance pays off! I think this will most likely be the hardest job you’ll come up against on this boat. Great work Stu!
I hope so Jack! Going to tackle the prop shaft this week...
i like every video before it start because i know it will be amazing, and thanks you have inspired me to buy a boat and make a channel. keep up the good work.
I am really pleased it is out. I am very much enjoying this series.
Great work stu.
I have been a viewer for a while now, but this series has actually made me turn on your notifications so that I don't miss a thing!
Good stuff. Keep it up
Right! As soon as he bought the steel boat I was like, well this is going to get interesting lol
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the series. :)
One of those jobs that turned out to be more work than it seemed it should be, congratulations
Whew finally get the rudder shaft out and you won the battle!! Now the easy part will be install new one I hope. Keep up good work!!
I really like how honest you about what you do and why plus I like how much you explain 👍
Thanks for taking us along Stu Im enjoying the rebuild
You're KILLIN me with the piano overlay......
Really enjoying watching these videos! I do these sorts of things all the time so it's great to get new ideas!
Just bought a 98 Yamaha 115. runs ok, been in fresh water only, and am getting after it for my use. Rebuilding carb. checking heads ect. Alot of the things you have taught me, actually everything you have taught me, steering cable really tough to turn, everything. Thx
You know that steering might not be in the cable but could be in the swivel tube on the engine bracket! That would be really nice and a quick fix :)
If it's one of the saltwater series two I can tell you about getting a 600RPM low idle that's as smooth as silk that'll troll all day without oiling up.
@@dustyfarmer you are trolling at 600 RPMs! You must be trolling on a river with current!
What do you do, just tighten the throttle plates?
Cool it came out the bottom. All the rudder post replacements and or brand new ones that Ive seen all went in or out through the bottom. Good thing you didn't have to cut it out.
Yeah, I'm glad I didn't have to cut it out too. :)
yeah once the boat shifted on its stands I was super afraid it was going to fall and when jeff just went running up the ladder while you were under the boat I was yelling "NOOOOO!". congratulations on getting that unstuck.
CONGRATULATION ... ...NICE IDEA WITH THE PRESSURE SLEVE WITH PENETRATING OIL .....ILL REMEMBER THAT
Congrats on getting the rudder post out! That was a big hold up for you, now it's out of the way. Cheers!
I think your making a bunch of great videos , I feel for you as you work on tough challenges like the rudder post . Your doing a great job , thank you for all the tips . Tight lines
Love the series. Keep up the good work
It's cool to see someone working on a giant steel boat!
These keep getting more entertaining &...... educational
They sure are, we dont even touch steel boats like that where I live! So we never see anything like this!
Love the coopers bottle on the Land Rover flat fender .
Can't believe I left it out in the sun. :(
Great to see you got it out! I’ve had a fair bit of experience with rust and stuck parts. Rust sucks. Hope you have more luck with this boat!
Especially with the metal! All he needs is some serious salt corrosion and it gets to be even more fun!
Great vid Stu.
nothing like the feeling of a victory such as that .
Enjoying this segment immensely
Keep them coming.
Great work again Stu. Entertaining, informative and just bloody good to watch. Still appreciate seeing the classy Landy in the background.
Great result after epic persistence, glad you made some good props!!!!
When the boat moved i was whoohhh, stop...
Its like watching all genres of movies so entertaining and informative.
Hi Stu the bushing looks like it is ferrobestos material used in boats for prop shaft bearings. This material is made from asbestos
Great job! Hope the rest of the work goes smoother!
I certainly give you full marks for doing a job out of your comfort zone. I restore WW2 ex army tanks and everything on these are rusted and hard to remove but all the principals and methods are the same. Well done.
That sounds like an really interesting project!
Good stuff on getting the rudder post out. as for the crane, yes you will be stoked if you can keep it level, i used to be a hi-ab operator and being on the slightest slopes can make turning cranes really hard especially with heavier loads.
Love the rudder post song!
It's too funny lol
@@BornAgainBoating AhahaaAA!
I figured a micro musical was better than miming. :)
@@DangarMarine lol well the performance was right on key! Hahha
Maybe you should have started with the song, saved yourself a ton of work!
Since it's a steel boat get a mag base for an indicator to hold the cam to free up your other hand love watching from Detroit mi great video series
If you're going to reuse the rudder you'll have to go stainless. But the alloy you choose for the shaft is important. My cousins yard uses Aquatech for propeller shafts and a post like this. Please take a look at my other post as I added a link there that'll really help but I posted separately because sometimes Google flags them as spam. If you can ask around as you might find a bent propshaft to use for a rudder post ;-)
Prop shaft for the rudder post! :/ good idea!
@@BornAgainBoating the material is expensive. So we hang onto the bent ones just for projects like this. We'll usually get 1-2 jobs a year where some drunk idiot parks on the jetty or rocks ;-) If he was in the States I'd probably have a shaft he could use for the post. Even a mangled one will straighten out enough for this, or have enough that's still straight above the cutlass bearing. We do have some straightened and reused but insurance jobs and ones that run at a high speed usually get replaced.
@@southjerseysound7340 sweet! Where do you work? We dont work on anything big like this. The place I work doesn't have a travel lift so we mainly only work on outboards. Boats under 42' cause that's the biggest we can lift. I've got a video this week of repowering a triple engine 36' yellowfin!
Great idea, I'll ask down at the marina where the boat first came out of the water.
If available that's probably a quick solution for Stu since he's handy at welding
Hahaha..you can tell by your intro face what kind of day you’ve had.loving the videos.
Victory! Love your perseverance Stu
Another great educational vid Stu. Well done in removing the shaft . I think you deserve to sit down and enjoy a 6 pack of coopers vintage. It doesn’t have the aftertaste of acetone like a pale ale.
Pale Ale RULES!
And Acetone, Do tell Us what it Tastes Like You Lying FREAK?
"We must get the rudder post out"...now available on iTunes.
Probably in the ring tones seciton. ;)
They used to make marine bearings out of Iron Wood. It is a wood that when worked will emit an oil. There is most likely bearing material now that will work better.
Really glad you were able to remove the rudder post, well done. I would replace the rudder post with stainless and as you said insulated it when you reinstall it. Keep up the great work. Cheers Jerome
I live no where near water in the Midwest. Why am I addicted to this
some of the biggest lakes in the world are in the midwest where i am lol
I live at the furthest point from the sea in Britain and I too am addicted to these vids mad isn't it
Lol because it's awesome! I can from Illinois but now I live in the keys! Needless to say, won't be moving back to the midwest which is nowhere near water lol
Sweet channel I gave you another sub! My channel is a lot smaller than that but we all start somewhere right!?
@@BornAgainBoating ever been to lake michigan?
@@johnj8686 yes! I have but not very many times. I was in the middle of the state and spent more time on the lakes and rivers there
Ran into the same problem with a rubber bushing in a steel sleeve. Burned/melted the bushing out with an acetylene torch.
Looking forward to your next installment
I'm totally hooked. Been thinking about your rudder post all week! Ops, I just realised that sounds filthy!
LOL. :)
Great video I am really curious every time to the next one
The material consists of canvas and varnish molded as a bearing. Used mainly on military applications.
Boatyard noise I love it all,,,good job 👍👍
You do not talk to much, I would rather watch your videos than watch the news. 👍
Thanks mate. :)
Another cool video! Glad you got that rudder post out. My vote is for stainless steel.
Another great vid. Thanks Stu.
14:20: We have a deck crane and a chain fall aboard as well. Very handy. Keep it near the centerline.
Yes, I'll just have to check the reach on it. Maybe if I keep it near the transom? Also been looking at some small 24V hydraulic units rather than this little hand pump one.
@@DangarMarine Start with the hand pump one. It will work when you really need it. Lengthen the handle if you want. Near the transom is fine, but consider what the weight of you, the crane and whatever the load is will do to your reserve buoyancy and then decide. If it's for winching in single batteries, fine, but if it's for bringing in 100 kilos, it might affect stability. You'll have to experiment.
Success! Gotta love it when a plan comes together. 😁
Thanks for the video.
Fabulous vids - thanks for making them!
Glad you like them. :)
Good videos I am enjoying watching this.
Congrats man! That rod had me stressed for the last month wondering if it would ever come out!
Also when you lifted the hull I thought you were a goner 🥺
Never heard the Ferobestos word for a long time, used to fit them on A frames of twin screws of ships n subs, have about 4 fire hoses on them to simulate thembeing in the water, a chain block and with a scale attached to it, to see how much strain it took to get the props turning.
Old school stuff.
Your doing a grand job Stu, mild steel or stainless new shaft, ally bronze perhaps.
Hope its cooler down your way than up in qld just now.
Cheers
Malc
I have to say stu, i absolutely love this series!! Completely fascinating!! Was on the edge of my seat the whole vid, cant wait to see more of this project. Was wondering if ur gonna fix all that pitting on the hull? If so, how? Anyways, this is the most awesome boat project ive seen to date! Keep the vids comin!!
It will depend how bad the pitting is in different sections. Some I will just fill with weld then grind back, some sections of plate I may need to cut out and replace.
dont ya love hearing the rudder post hit the ground.
good solutions!
I had a backhoe that had fiberglass bushings with no grease fitting and i loved it.
the bushings were SUPER CHEAP.
Wait, so the only think keeping a 40mm steel plug from falling out and sinking your boat was that fibrous bearing material and the actual steering mechanics? Oh, and I guess the rudder and bottom bracket. Awesome that that's done! I'm looking forward to seeing how this project continues on. Keep these videos coming!
It's really cool to see that you're into music. The cinematography kind of took me by surprise!
Yeah, that little 20mm thick gudgeon plate at the bottom might help keep it in place. ;) I do love music, one of my main hobbies outside of boating.
@@DangarMarine Very cool. How about a quick off topic video about your music? May I ask your day job? Is it repairing boats?
I think like in my sailboat that the water will only go as high as the water surrounding the boat, since the mechanic space is higher than the surrounding water level, it won't flood.
@@matthewmillar3804 soundscloud.com/dangarstu
Hello, I think that that bearing material is ORKOT, I work for a company that machines this material into bearings / liners that are used on submarines/ ships etc, it is a marine bearing material that is designed to swell up a little when submerged. It is even used to line torpedo tubes. Very easy to machine but I think the size it’s cut to has to take into consideration it swelling in order for it to function properly.
I’ve just done some research, ORKOT is actually designed not to swell up!!
Outstanding, I'll put my hands up and say, I was completely wrong. Down she came.
Good work.
I used to work on trawlers like yours and bigger here in the UK, You have a nice little boat on your hands and a great channel too.
All the boats I worked had grease points on both the prop and rudder shafts, That steel shaft has lasted 25 years, stainless may sound better but. . . wow the cost over mild steel & how long do you plan to own her??? Good luck and just keep going.
I think that’s good advice mate. For the cost, if a mild steel shaft gets me another 20 years then it will see the boat through.
Some nice work there. whatever you do, make sure the material is the same in the rudder and the shaft, all stainless steel is dependant on a constant supply of oxygen to keep the oxide barrier intact (this is what ceaps the "stainless" from rusting). you must have liberal ammounts of zinc on the rudder, and a hefty ground strap from the top of the post to the hull. using stainless in the combination whith mild steel is not ideal. i used to work as a cheaf engineer, and have sean this plenty of times. its dooable, but harshe on the anodes. greatings from norway :)
There currently isn't a ground strap at all from the top of the rudder post to the hull. I'll have to look into the best way to do that. The little musical section in this video was inspired by watching Stories from Norway at the moment. The one about the Hamar diving board was priceless. :)
It's out! Awesome! I love the camo truck in the back, that's sweet!
I used to have a camo 1985 F150 but that was before I was making videos.
I wish I had a video of it :(
I think your right about keeping the shaft stainless steel! I'm just happy you got it out lol
It's an ex Australian Army 110 Land Rover, they sold plenty a while back at public auction including 6x6 Land Rover Perentie's & 6x6 Mack trucks & Mercedes Benz Unimogs, all are painted in Auscam but I did see a few in desert tan which must have been middle east returnee's.
@@dustyfarmer pretty sweet! Now transporting one to the US, maybe a little tricky!
Many work boats use steel rudder stocks with stainless shaft liners installed on the stock where the bearings locate. But for your shaft probably all stainless is simpler. There is a company named Thordon, who make non metallic tail shaft and rudder stock bearings that work using the ambient seawater as lubricant. They also provide galvanic isolation. Thordon would work well for your installation, if a stainless rudder stock is used. If you go with mild steel, then you need to fill the rudder tube with grease to keep the rudder stock from corroding. That used to be the usual approach, with a seal to keep the grease in, but environmental considerations have made the water lubricated arrangement more common. Greg
Nice choice of beer! 😎
Thanks for your videos. I think they are popular because you experience problems we all face and don't pretend to have all the answers. In regard to replacing the rudder post with stainless, I think you have to consider the application above all else. With stainless being less ductile than mild steel, the length of the shaft and the torque loads may lend itself to choosing a more ductile material. Stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, but will it hold up with the constant torque loads? I think I would go for mild steel with some corrosion prevention such as grease points for the tube. There is a reason why stainless steel is not used everywhere in marine applications. I am an aircraft engineer and while aluminium is the choice for structure almost every faying surface is coated with a compound to reduce electrolytic corrosion. Two surfaces of the same material can still have a potential difference which is all you need for electrolytic corrosion.
Tim posted a link to your music! Holy crap man...you're gifted! Lot of elbow grease into that venture but certainly nice to see it come out. That holy trinity must have helped??!
Watched this on the 63 inch TV in the lounge and was shouting out to use the hot spanner to move it and you finally did, that seal looks like latty packing, not sure If the spelling is right but many years back we used these in underwater gearbox stuffing boxes with a quality marine grease. I would think twice though about replacing the shaft with a stainless one, if it picks up at all it will be an
Even bigger nightmare to remove than the mild steel one was
Interesting watching your project progressing, thanks for sharing.
If the crane is not level when lifting heavy loads it will want to turn to the lowest point. If you use it when floating; it could turn suddenly and dangerously if the boat listed when the crane was lifting.
That is a good point about turning when lifting if another boat goes past. Definitely something worth thinking about in the design.
Thanks for sharing.cant wait to see how it go’s back together!keeping it all SS seem to be a good thing.
That was so satisfying to watch when it finally moved! And we discovered Stu's other talent ... singing? LOL.
I've got an 'ole steel yacht, that I replaced the rudder stock on as well..An engineer friend who works at Blue Scope Steel, recommended I use COR-TEN high tensile steel..Probably what your boat is made from as well.
Interesting you should say that. I have always heard that COR-TEN only really works well above the waterline. I'll have to look into it more.
Yes, I would ask someone in the marine industry to confirm that..
Put some safety shield on your face mate... especially looking up into a hot tube full of ATF fluid.
A stainless shaft isn't a bad idea. I don't know if you'll get a lot of benefit in an oxygen-starved environment like inside a rudder tube, but the exposed parts would benefit. Keep in mind that stainless steels are usually weaker than most other steels. Going a bit larger in diameter would address the issue, but that would mean a new rudder tube. :-/
Tensile strength isn't super important for a rudder post since that's the rating of the material under tension, like pulling on a rope. Not a lot of tension loads on a rudder post. That said, when compared to a basic low-carbon non-tempered steel, a lot of stainless steels are pretty close. Note that standing rigging wire rope sizes between SS and galvanized can be pretty much the same.
Yield strength is how much force the material can take and still return to its original shape without permanent deformation (or presumably fracture.) This one is more relevant for a rudder post. It can be as low as a third of the strength of that same basic steel we were comparing to. Looking at some bolt grade charts in order to get an idea, we see 36000-57000 psi is typical for basic low-grade low carbon steel vs 20000-65000 psi for SS ones. A good heat treated steel (grade 8 bolt) will often have a yield strength as high as 130,000 psi! It is telling that there aren't any SS fastener manufacturers that are willing to apply meaningful grade marks. I've been told by some industry folks to always assume SS fasteners are never as strong as even the lowest grade steel fasteners.
Unknowingly taking up to a 2/3 reduction in its ability to handle torsional (rotational) loads wouldn't be awesome. Again, this depends entirely on the SS alloy compared to what kind of steel the old post was made from. Paying more than necessary for materials and having to replace the tube with a larger diameter one would also not be awesome.
I'm no engineer, but maybe you've got some here that can chime in.
BTW, if you had money to burn, check out hardened Monel K-500 alloy. It is the Rolls Royce of marine alloys for an application like this.
EDIT: I just looked up some typical yield strengths. Mild steel ~ 248 MPa (36000 psi), 316L Stainless Steel ~ 170 MPa (25000 psi) so to my amateur eye, my gut would tell me to increase the diameter to 1.5x the one I yanked out.
Per ASME Sec II-D, A53 and 106 carbon steel have a Tensile of 60,000psi and a Yield of 35,000psi. 316L has a Tensile of 75,000psi and a Yield of 25,000. The stainless would definitely be more noble once it passivated. But there is so much carbon steel (the whole boat is made of it), that the ratio of anode is cathode is favorable. More importantly, stainless steel will eventually crack in the presence of chlorides. Especially 300 series (austenitic).
@@DavidPT40 -- Ah. Your numbers align with what I was seeing.
As for "once it is passivated," that's what I was referring to at the beginning about the questionable benefit. The stainless part of stainless steel comes from the thin chromium-rich oxide layer on the surface. To maintain that passive state, it needs to remain in an oxygen-rich environment. To be durable, it is normally self-healing in that same oxygen-rich environment. When submerged in an oxygen-depleted environment, it is highly prone to crevice corrosion and pitting.
The chloride reaction you mentioned really piqued my interest. I hadn't heard about that one and that might push me further from using SS.
In short, I don't like SS below the waterline, especially when it will be exposed to stagnant water. Silicon bronze, cupronickel, inconel, monel, or a suitable non-metallic alternative are all better choices below the waterline IMO.
Depending on how much life you want out of this boat, it might make the most sense to simply stick with the mild steel and diligently maintain your zinc anode on your shaft.
EDIT: I looked up the properties of stainless alloys under various trade names referenced in the article linked below (Aqualoy A22, Aquatech 22, and AQUAMET 22.) It looks like they have sufficient yield strength to be a direct swap without having to rebuild the sleeve, but they're also not cheap. They are all highly austenitic. Based on David's comments, I'm now questioning whether that would be a concern, however, they are widely used for this application. I found many shops online that would machine a shaft and ship it.
Here's a good article on the subject. The last paragraph, in particular, has some recommendations for the specific stainless alloys for propeller shafts if a corrosion-resistant steel alloy is desired for cost-performance reasons. The same thinking would be applicable to a rudder shaft.
"Stainless Steel - Miracle Metal?" by Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting.
stevedmarineconsulting.com/stainless-steel-miracle-metal/?upm_export=print
I work on boats a lot, mostly sailing boats but work on all boats. I would say 100% use stainless steel for the rudder post. The bottom bushing should be brass with a rubber inner, they are commercially made specifically for that job.
Interesting videos, Thanks.
Be careful with that crane if the slew axis is not vertical. If you have any significant load hanging, it will slew to the low side. Might need to engineer some kind of slewing brake.
Great video and nice to see the clear thought process and theroy of work. With the rudder tube I'd personally tap and fit some grease nipples to maintain the rudder post with lubricant
Fortunately it already has a grease nipple installed between the two bearings.
I would not use any more stainless steel. Just use a High Density nylon insulator between the new post flange and and the stainless steel rudder. Also add zinc anode to a wider rudder post flange above the rudder. Note that the rudder post shaft may yet need to be replaced and will need realignment in any case. Inexpensive, long lasting and easy is the best way.
10:35 - that kinda feeling the morning after having a curry and too much Guinness, but in boat form.
Glad you got that shaft out Stu. I guess you are going to use sacrificial anodes. Seeing as you are a saltwater boater, you should install zinc or aluminum anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion on the engine and underwater parts of your boat. Stainless is nice for your steering, but expensive. But we all know that boat stands for Bust Out Another Thousand;-)Thanks for posting.
So far as I can see the bush is made from a composite material and may be I am wrong but I would go for stainless as mild steel can be soft and corrode.
Hi Michael, the new rudder has been made now out of stainless. Really looking forward to installing it.
Yer replacement rudder shaft could be turned slightly smaller diameter in the center area. Then it will come out much easier next time. If it were mine, I would consider putting a grease fitting on the shaft tube and pumping in a some OIL every now and then.
Ah, coopers, the key ingredient. On a serious note atf / acetone is a great mix. But like all good things, it takes time to penetrate.
rudder shaft bush could be made out of brass bushing called oilite,graphite impregnated brass.
At least your getting lots of new tools!
WOW ! Stu has a second career. MORE SINGING, even if it is drunken sailor songs !
My vote is for a stainless rudder post. Big $$$ for sure. More important, what material for that bushing. I think nylon is too soft. Perhaps Delrin ? I can not remember the name of that material, but is it sometime used in cutlass bearings. Need a method of greasing the shaft, especially if you go with mild steel.
On pipe. If your getting a one one made. See if they can put seals on lower part and make it grease able.
Nice job
Look into air arc gouging to remove weld lines. If you think Oxy Acetyline is quick you have no idea how fast air arc gouging is. The good thing is that you can get into corners that nothing else can get into and blow weld out of that corner.
Sweet, I've never heard of that, I'll check it out :)
I've burned a many a gouging rods working off-shore on the oil platforms. They work amazing.
@@genek121973 awesome man, thank you!
I doubt he will have a powerfull enough welder available for air arc. Takes like 300 amps and a pretty good sized compressor as well.
@@codylapoint it would be nice if he could though