Hey Mike. Good stuff. I've checked-out a few (many) of your videos, and like that you're just a 'regular guy' working in a home garage with some limited tools & doing 'regular guy things'. That said. I've done many of the same/similar mods to my Road King - and I recently added an Ultra Classic to my garage and am doing all the things to it... A few hints & suggestions... Air-Ride: - Using bigger diameter Air Line makes a HUGE difference in performance. Especially when 'dropping' the bike for parking. - Adding an Air Tank is a game changer. It adds complexity to the installation, but it is SO worth the effort. - Sourcing a 'lower switch housing' (clutch-side) & switch from a Road King that had factory cruise control and repurposing it for Air-Ride control is a HUGE flex. Having a factory/OEM control button for UP/DOWN action without having to take your hand off the bars is my favorite part of my installation. - On your year Road King, you should be able to slightly adjust the morning location of the ECM (under the throttle-side side cover) and allow for your compressor to mount there to keep it out of the weather/elements. License Plate Relocation: - That 'grab bar' is not structural...but removing it leaves an 'unfinished' appearance because of how the chrome upper frame covers are shaped. None of the (currently available) 'grab bar delete kits' do much to fix that aesthetic problem. - I designed and uploaded a template to a company called Send Cut Send and had them make me Stainless Steel plates that allow for the grab bar delete...and have a tab to allow me to mount something (a chrome 'cone') to fill the void in the frame cover left by removing the grab bar. - Cost was about $30 for the custom plate...and like $6 for the chrome 'cones'. Super inexpensive mods...and something that is truly custom. - I've used this solution on different bikes so far. Super cool. Again. Good stuff in your videos. You can (sort of) see some of the stuff I mentioned above by going to my Channel and watching the 'Road King Bike Check' video. Ride safe!
Hey thanks for the info bud. Im definitely going to check out your channel. I had thought about the line size for the air going from 1/8 to 1/4, how does that work for the shock side? Would i just us a quick release style coupler? (since the 1/8 line actually slide into the shock) Do they sell a bracket to place the comp under the side cover or do you end up just fab'ing something yourself? 100% on that Grab Bar issue, i was looking at the delete kits and nothing really made it look good. I was also thinking of just getting the minimal luggage rack to cover it up. Thanks again, always looking for pointers and ideas from others, really appreciate it. -Mike
For the AirLine connection at the Shocks, you should be able to swap the PTC fitting to a 1/4” line size. Depends on how the Shock itself accommodates the Fitting. Worst case, you can get plumbing fittings to convert to proper thread pitch. As far as mounting the Compressor under the side cover…literally NO fabrication is necessary. It’s crazy-simple. What it did (on 4 bikes from that era) is basically remove one of the ECM bolts, and ‘slide the ECM down’ so that it allows room above for the Compressor. I would be happy to share pics of what it looks like all mounted. Lastly. Regarding the grab bar delete plates. If you’re interested in trying them let me know. I’d be happy to share the Mechanical Drawing File so you can have some made. Like I said, they’re quite inexpensive…and will only take you like 20-minutes to install.
@@Mikeityourself - I will clarify my ‘No fabrication necessary’ statement for side-mounting the Compressor. One of the ECM bolts get used on the Compressor Bracket. You’ll need to drill a couple of holes in the side plate for the other Compressor Bracket bolts. Super simple. As mentioned. If there is a way to share images…I’ll send you some pictures.
Hi Armando, are you talking about the dump valve to release air? If you are the intake has a needle hole dead center and the output side has it towards the top of I recall correctly. If your valve has a brand on it, while looking at that side the input is the left. Hope that helps . You can also search solenoid valves on Amazon and see a bunch of pics.
do you have the link to the whole kit? I saw another channel use American Suspension(?), the kit for front and rear was $1300, but 250 sounds much better. Ride safe
Here is the link. Def can't beat the price. www.ebay.com/str/empirecycleparts?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LGtLnFBQRrK&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=e3wdI4CkTFy&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hey Mike. Good stuff. I've checked-out a few (many) of your videos, and like that you're just a 'regular guy' working in a home garage with some limited tools & doing 'regular guy things'.
That said. I've done many of the same/similar mods to my Road King - and I recently added an Ultra Classic to my garage and am doing all the things to it...
A few hints & suggestions...
Air-Ride:
- Using bigger diameter Air Line makes a HUGE difference in performance. Especially when 'dropping' the bike for parking.
- Adding an Air Tank is a game changer. It adds complexity to the installation, but it is SO worth the effort.
- Sourcing a 'lower switch housing' (clutch-side) & switch from a Road King that had factory cruise control and repurposing it for Air-Ride control is a HUGE flex. Having a factory/OEM control button for UP/DOWN action without having to take your hand off the bars is my favorite part of my installation.
- On your year Road King, you should be able to slightly adjust the morning location of the ECM (under the throttle-side side cover) and allow for your compressor to mount there to keep it out of the weather/elements.
License Plate Relocation:
- That 'grab bar' is not structural...but removing it leaves an 'unfinished' appearance because of how the chrome upper frame covers are shaped. None of the (currently available) 'grab bar delete kits' do much to fix that aesthetic problem.
- I designed and uploaded a template to a company called Send Cut Send and had them make me Stainless Steel plates that allow for the grab bar delete...and have a tab to allow me to mount something (a chrome 'cone') to fill the void in the frame cover left by removing the grab bar.
- Cost was about $30 for the custom plate...and like $6 for the chrome 'cones'. Super inexpensive mods...and something that is truly custom.
- I've used this solution on different bikes so far. Super cool.
Again. Good stuff in your videos. You can (sort of) see some of the stuff I mentioned above by going to my Channel and watching the 'Road King Bike Check' video.
Ride safe!
Hey thanks for the info bud. Im definitely going to check out your channel. I had thought about the line size for the air going from 1/8 to 1/4, how does that work for the shock side? Would i just us a quick release style coupler? (since the 1/8 line actually slide into the shock)
Do they sell a bracket to place the comp under the side cover or do you end up just fab'ing something yourself?
100% on that Grab Bar issue, i was looking at the delete kits and nothing really made it look good. I was also thinking of just getting the minimal luggage rack to cover it up.
Thanks again, always looking for pointers and ideas from others, really appreciate it.
-Mike
For the AirLine connection at the Shocks, you should be able to swap the PTC fitting to a 1/4” line size. Depends on how the Shock itself accommodates the Fitting. Worst case, you can get plumbing fittings to convert to proper thread pitch.
As far as mounting the Compressor under the side cover…literally NO fabrication is necessary. It’s crazy-simple. What it did (on 4 bikes from that era) is basically remove one of the ECM bolts, and ‘slide the ECM down’ so that it allows room above for the Compressor. I would be happy to share pics of what it looks like all mounted.
Lastly. Regarding the grab bar delete plates. If you’re interested in trying them let me know. I’d be happy to share the Mechanical Drawing File so you can have some made. Like I said, they’re quite inexpensive…and will only take you like 20-minutes to install.
@@Mikeityourself - I will clarify my ‘No fabrication necessary’ statement for side-mounting the Compressor.
One of the ECM bolts get used on the Compressor Bracket. You’ll need to drill a couple of holes in the side plate for the other Compressor Bracket bolts. Super simple.
As mentioned. If there is a way to share images…I’ll send you some pictures.
Sounds pretty easy. You can email me at mikeityourself@gmail.com
@@Mikeityourself - email sent.
Thank You
How do you determine what is IN and What is OUT on the air Valve . One hole is bigger than the other.
Thanks
Hi Armando, are you talking about the dump valve to release air? If you are the intake has a needle hole dead center and the output side has it towards the top of I recall correctly. If your valve has a brand on it, while looking at that side the input is the left. Hope that helps . You can also search solenoid valves on Amazon and see a bunch of pics.
Dope bike my vicla is scarlett red but after seeing your i want to change it. Is it a stock or after market blue?
Thanks bro. It's stock, can't get a sure name of it. I've found Pacific Blue Pearl but recently heard it called Suede Blue.
do you have the link to the whole kit? I saw another channel use American Suspension(?), the kit for front and rear was $1300, but 250 sounds much better. Ride safe
Here is the link. Def can't beat the price. www.ebay.com/str/empirecycleparts?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LGtLnFBQRrK&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=e3wdI4CkTFy&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Good deal 👌
Still a good deal